Ordnance gazetteer of Scotland : a survey of Scottish topography, statistical, biographical, and historical

THE LIBRARY

OF

THE UNIVERSITY

OF CALIFORNIA

LOS ANGELES

ORDNANCE

GAZETTEER OF SCOTLAND:

A SURVEY OF SCOTTISH TOPOGRAPHY,

EDITED BY

FRANCIS H. GROOME,

ASSISTANT EDITOR OF 'THE GLOBE ENCYCLOPEDIA.'

VOLUME IV.

E D 1 N B U K G H :

THOMAS C. JACK, GEANGE PUBLISHING WORKS.

LONDON: 45 LUDGATE HILL.

GLASGOW: 48 GORDON STREET. ABERDEEN: 26 BROAD STREET.

18 85.

742447

■aHsaaudiBu

Kilchuru Castle, Argylesbii-e.

Loch Tummcl.

XXV

Grandtiillv Ciistle, Perthshire.

A Cottage in Islay, 1774.

XXVI

Loch Scavig, Skye

Suilven, Sutherland.

XXVIII

JPTSlIli

: fwj

, V oS=«^ soxRowsronargss
A3^ ■■'- oA no'yrssi

'(iKaJiaj

JOHN BARTHOLOMEW tOlNBURGH

MJnii.S^ U I J ( vLCfS m LMAKk^d I L < LiHLiTHi^irjfSiriES

itiwvKlIiali

^1

PEH'

JOHN BARTHOLOMEW EDINBURGH'

FIHTIl 0^ TAI

jsubju4ii\

2D ^ I, _l_ r,\^ x'l- J

-^

^

^^

^-*^

HARTREE

Hartree, an estate, with a mansion, in the Peeblcs-
Bhire section of Culter parish, 2^ miles S by E of Biggar.
It has been held by the Dicksons since the third decade
of the 17th century.

Hartrigge, a mansion in Jedburgh parish, Roxburgh-
shire, 7 furlongs NE of the town. Approached by a
fine avenue, it is a Scottish Baronial edifice, formed in
1854 by David Brycc out of an older and plainer house
for John, Lord Campbell (1781-1861), Chancellor of
England, who made it his home for several years. Its
present possessor, his son, William Frederick Campbell,
second Baron Stratheden and Campbell since 1836 and
1841 (b. 1824 ; sue. 1860-61), holds 1600 acres in the
shire, valued at £2278 per annum. Hartrigge, besides,
was the deathplace of two Scotch judges — William
Pennev, Lord Kinloch (1801-72), and Robert Macfar-
lane, LordOrmidale (1802-80).— Orr^. Sur., sh. 17, 1864.

Hart's Leap, a defile on the mutual border of Yarrow
and Ettrick parishes, Selkirkshire, 2| miles NW of
Tusliielaw. It got its name from a prodigious leap made
at it by a hart, during a hunt by one of the ancient
Scottish kings ; and it retains two large stones, 28 feet
apart, said to have been set up by order of the king, to
mark the extent of the leap.

Hartwood, an estate, with a mansion of 1807, in West
Calder parish, SW Edinburghshire, Ih mile S of the
town.

Harvieston, an estate, Avith an old, thick-walled man-
sion, greatly enlarged in 1869, in Borthwick parish,
Edinburghshire, 1 mile S by E of Gorebridge. Its
owner, George Cranstoun Trotter-Cranstoun (b. 1801 ;
sue. 1838), holds 1652 acres in the shire, valued at £632
per annum, and whose ancestor bought it about the year
1750. Some fragments of the ancient castle of Catcune
are within the grounds.

Harviestoun, an estate in Tillicoultry parish, Clack-
mannanshire, at the southern base of the Ochils, \\
mile ENE of the toAvn. Its present mansion, Harvies-
toun Castle, was built in 1804 by CraAvfurd Tait, Esq.
(1765-1832), Avhose youngest son, Archibald (1811-82),
Archbishop of Canterbury, spent much of his boyhood
here. It is an elegant edifice, with finely-Avooded
grounds, and was greatly improved by Sir AndreAV Orr
(1802-74), Avho, having bought the estate in 1859, added
a neAv tower and porch, and formed two beautiful ap-
proaches leading from Tillicoultry and Dollar. His
lirotlier and successor, James Orr, Esq. (b. 1812), holds
4726 acres in the shire, valued at £4013 per annum.
It was during a ten days' visit to Harviestoun in the
summer of 1787, that Robert Burns saw Charlotte
Hamilton, the ' fairest maid on Devon banks, ' and a
cousin -german of Mr C. Tait. — Orel. Sur., sh. 39, 1869.

Hassendean, a station on the Waverley route of the
North British, in Minto parish, Roxburghshire, 4J
miles NNE of Hawick. Past it floAvs Hassendean Burn,
winding 4f miles east-south-eastAvard to the Teviot, and
overhung, on the left, by Minto Hill (905 feet). An
ancient barony, it belonged for ages to a branch of the
family of Scott, of Avhom Sir Alexander fell at the battle
of Flodden ; and makes considerable figure, in record
and in song, under the names of Halstaneden and
Hazeldean. Its baronial fortalice or strong peel-tower,
near the mouth of the burn, is noAV represented by a
small fragment forming the gable of a cottage ; and
there Avas also a monastic cell, called Monk's Tower, on a
tract still designated Monk's Croit. An ancient parish
of Hassendean, conterminous AA'ith the barony, belonged,
as to its teinds and pati'onage, to the monks of Melrose,
and about the era of the Reformation AA'as annexed
chiefly to Minto, but partly to Wilton and Roberton.
Its church, whose site, by the side of the Teviot, was
swept aAvay along Avith the graveyard by a strong flood
in 1796, Avas a Norman edifice, and had such strong hold
on the aff"ections of the dalesmen that they repeatedly
made indignant resistance to measures for closing it.
Eventually, however, it AA-as taken doAvn in 1690 in the
face of a riotous demonstration, on the part of Avomen as
well as men.— Orel. Sur., sh. 17, 1864.

Hatton, a village in Cruden parish, E Aberdeenshire,
63

HAUSTER

8 miles NE of Ellon, under which it has a post office.
At it are a branch of the Union Bank, a public school,
and Cruden Free church (1844), Avhich last was the
nucleus of the village, and after Avhich it at first Avas
called the Free Kirkton of Cruden. — Orel. Sur., sh. 87,
1876.

Hatton, an estate, with a mansion, in Marykirk
parish, S Kincardineshire, ^l miles SAV of Laurence-
kirk. Its OAvner, ]\Iajor-Gen. the Hon. Walter Arbuth-
nott (b. 1808 ; sue. 1868), holds 633 acres in the shire,
valued at £885 per annum. — Orel. Sur., sh. 57, 1868.

Hatton, an estate, with a mansion, in Ratho parish,
Edinburghshire. The mansion, a striking example of
the Scoto-French chateau of the 17th century, stands
near the southern verge of the parish, 1 J mile SSAV of
Ratho village, and consists of a thick-AA-alled, three-
story toAver of the 15th century, with AA'ings, turrets,
and other additions of 1670 and later years. It was
the summer residence of Francis Jeffrey (1812-14).
Purchased in 1377 from John de Hatton by Allan de
Lawdre or Lauder, the estate remained Avith his de-
scendants till 1653, Avhen it passed by marriage to the
noble family of Lauderdale, by Avhom it was sold in
1792. It then comprehended nearly one-half of the
parish, but shortly afterAvards Avas parcelled out into six
properties, of Avhicli that of Hatton House, comprising
500 acres, was purchased in 1870 for £42,000 by the
Earl of Morton, AA'hose son, Lord Aberdour, soon after
restored the mansion. — 0}'el. Sur., sh. 32, 1857. See
John Small's Ceistlcs emel Mansions of the Lothians
(Edinb. 1883).

Hattonburn, an estate, with a mansion, in Orwell
parish, Kinross-shire, f mile NNE of Milnathort. Its
owner, the Hon. Mrs j\Iontgomery, AA'idoAv of Thomas
Henry Montgomery, Esq. (1828-79), holds 335 acres in
the shire, valued at £662 per annum. — Orel. Sur., sh.
40, 1867.

Hatton Castle, a square castellated mansion of 1814,
with finely-Avooded grounds, in Turriff" parish, N Aber-
deenshire, 3^ miles SE of Turriff" toAvn. It comprises a
fragment of the ancient baronial castle of Balquholly
(Gael. bedle-cJioiUe, ' town in the wood '), the seat of the
MoAvats from the 13th century till 1723, Avhen the estate
Avas sold to Alexander Dutf, Esq. His descendant.
Garden Alexander Duff", Esq. (b. 1853; sue. 1866),
holds 11,576 acres in the shire, valued at £9662 per
annum. — Orel. Sur., sh. 86, 1876.

Hatton Castle, a ruined fortalice in Newtyle parish,
SAV Forfarshire, at the western base of Hatton Hill
(870 feet), ^ mile SE of the village. Built in 1575 by
LaAvreuce, fourth Lord Oliphant, it commanded the
Sidlaw pass of the Glack, down Avhich it looks to an
extensive prospect of Strathmore. — Orel. Sur., sh. 48,
1868.

Hatton Law, a hamlet in Largo parish, Fife, 1^ mile
NAA^ of Largo station.

Hatton, Lower, a village in Caputh parish, Perth-
shire, IJ mile N of Dunkeld.

Hatton, Wester. See Belhelvie.

Haugh, a village in Mam-liline parish, Ayrshire, on
the right bank ofthe Ayr, 1:^ mile S of IMauchlinetown.

Haughhead, a village in Campsie parish, Stirling-
shire, at the junction o"f Fin and Campsie Glens, ^ mile
NAA" of Campsie Glen station. It has a post office
under GlasgoAV.

Haughhead. See Eckford.

Haugh of Urr, a village in Urr parish, Kirkcudbright-
shire, near the left bank of Urr AVater, 4 miles NNAV of
Dalbeattie, under Avhich it has a post office.

Haughton, a mansion, Avith finely-Avooded grounds,
in Alford parish, Aberdeenshire, near the right bank of
the Don, 1 mile NNE of the village. Purchased by his
ancestor in the latter half of the 17th century, the
estate is now held by Robert Francis Ogilvie Farquhar-
son, Esq. (b. 1823 ; sue. 1854), Avho owns 4500 acres in
the shire, valued at £3774 per annum.— Orr^. Sur., sh.
76, 1874.

Hauster, a burn of AA^ick parish, E Caithness, rising
on the Latheron border at an altitude of 556 feet, and

249

HAVEN. EAST AND WEST

winding SJ miles uorth-nortli-eastward till it falls into
Wick Water at a point 1^ mile AV of Wick town. In
the first 5 miles of its course it traverses Yarelionse and
Hempriggs Lochs ; and sometimes it bears the name of
Thrumster Burn.— (9/-rf. Sur., shs. 110, 116, 1S77-7S.

Haven, East and West. See East and W^est Haven.

Haveton, a village in South Ronaldshay island,
Orkney, 13 miles S of Kirkwall.

Hawick, a iiarliamentary and municipal burgh, and
the largest seat of population in the eastern Border
counties, 53 miles SSE of Edinburgh, 45 NNE of
Carlisle, and 346 NNW of London. It is situated on
both sides of the Teviot, which enters the town from
the SW after passing through the haughs and woods of
Branxholm and Wilton Lodge, an approach^ of great
picturesqueness and beauty. The Teviot is joined in
the centre of the town by the Slitrig, a mountainous
stream, flowing through a district of romantic interest.
The town is in a basin, the principal streets being built
on the level land on both sides of the rivers, from which
other streets ascend the slopes, and above these are the
mansions and villas of the principal inhabitants over-
looking the town, and commanding extensive views of
the surrounding region. Several of these in size and
architecture rival the older mansions of the neighbour-
ing gentry. The district is rich in historic houses and
in more modern seats. Branxholm, one of the original
residences of the Buceleuch family ; Harden, of the
ancient Scotts ; Cavers, of the Douglasses of Liddesdale ;
Stobs Castle, of the Elliots ; Teviot Lodge, of the Lang-
lands ; and Stirches, of the Chisholms, are in the
vicinity. Sillerbithall, Heronhill, Thorn wood. Buck-
lands, Brieryards, Teviotbank, Hassendeanburn, and
Linden-park are all large and elegant mansions. Nearly
all these seats are surrounded with extensive woods,
abounding in trees of great size. The town is regular
in form, and the streets are well built and spacious. A
great part of the old town has been rebuilt during the
last thirty years, and several streets have been added
of late, the houses all of freestone, tasteful and com-
modious. Several bridges span the Slitrig and Teviot.
Among the chief buildings are the Exchange Hall, the
banks, and some of the churches. A large and hand-
.some town-hall is to be built on the present site in the
High Street, which, with cori'esponding offices and the
free library, will contain a public hall capable of seating
1500 people, and will cost about £10,000. A building
also is to be erected as a memorial to his Grace the Duke
of Buceleuch, who has long been the munificent bene-
factor of the burgh. Few evidences in buildings remain
of the antiquity of Hawick. The notable exception is
the building which for a century has been known as the
Tower Hotel. The older or western side is several
hundred years old, and formed part of the castle of the
Drumlanrig Douglasses, which escaped being burned in
the devastating inroad of the Earl of Sussex in 1570.
It was used as a residence a century afterwards by Anne
Scott, who was married to the Duke of Monmouth, and
was made Duchess of Buceleuch. While this house is one
evidence of the antiquity of the town, the Moat at a little
distance bears -witness to the far-off antiquity of the town
and people. This is a circular earthen-mound, 30 feet
high, 312 in circumference at the base, and at the top
117. When and Ity whom this was erected is unknown.
It is purely artificial, and bears no trace of being a
sepulchral mound. It is upon an eminence which
commands a view of all the surrounding hills and
valleys, a capital station for watchers of apprehended
attacks, an excellent rendezvous for the defenders of
their homes, and an elevated station whence chiefs and
justices might dispense law. There can be no doubt
that the erection of this was far off in the centuries of
old, as also was that of the first parish church,
which dates from an unknown anticiuity. No doubt,
here, as elsewhere, the Christian Church was the founder
of the civilisation. The previous races were savages,
until the Churcli reclaimed and elevated them. The
foundation of tlio Church in Hawick is like the Jloat —
it goes back to an impenetrable distance. The first
250

HAWICK

mention of it is in the Chronicle of Melrose, which
states that the Church of St Mary was consecrated in
1214, but there is no doubt that generations before this,
and from early Saxon times, Hawick was the seat of
Christian worship.

The municipal history of Hamck speaks to its anti-
quity. In the Scottish Rolls, under date 1347, it is
said to have been held from the Crown by Richard
Lovel and his ancestors 'for time immemorial.' Soon
afterwards the lands passed into the family of Sir
William Douglas of Drumlanrig, to whom James I.,
while resident in England, gave a charter conveying to
him the barony of Hawick and a territory embracing
a large part of the sheriffdom of Roxburgh. Nearly a
century afterwards. Sir James Douglas granted, in 1537,
a charter to the inhabitants of Hawick, which was
confirmed by the deed of Queen Mary of date 12 May
1545. At the period of granting the charter, the
town appears to have consisted of 110 houses, inclusive
of the manor house, church, and mill. The municipal
jurisdiction was entrusted to 2 bailies and 31 councillors.
The territorial sovereignty passed from the Douglasses
of Drumlanrig to the Scotts of Buceleuch. See Dal-
keith and Detjmlanrig.

Hawick is abundantly supplied with pure water. The
former supply being inadequate, in 1866 a reservoir was
made on the Allan, 5 miles SW of Hawick, and an
amount of 400,000 gallons per day was brought in,
at a cost of £8000. As the town extended along the
slopes, it was found necessary to introduce a new supply
drawn from a much greater height, from the Dodburn,
and by these combined means 1,000,000 gallons are de-
livered in the town daily. Tlie various works, with
the reservoir, a fine sheet of water of 20 acres — a hollow
among the hills — was constructed at a cost of £15,000.
The reservoir contains about 54,000,000 gallons. The
Allan and Dodburn being on the property of the Duke
of Buceleuch, and the surface for the most part through
which the pipes are carried, the Duke with his usual
generosity granted the free right of usage to the town.
These works were opened by his Grace on 1 Sept. 1882,
a memorable holiday in the town's annals, the principal
streets being ablaze M'ith innumerable decorations, and
all classes vying with each other to do him homage.
An immense procession, with a great range of carriages,
accompanied his Grace to the reservoir, where he was
presented with an address from the Town Council
descriptive of the connection between the town and the
ducal house, and the numerous acts of benevolence
which had endeared him to the people. The proceed-
ings were followed by a splendid banquet given in his
honour, and attended by several hundreds, along with
noblemen and gentlemen from the surrounding district.
The town also is thoroughly drained on the most ap-
proved system, massive pipes having been laid in all the
streets and in connection with all the public works, by
which several hundred thousand gallons of sewage and
polluted water from the mills are conveyed to a haugh
on the W bank of the Teviot, 1 mile distant, where the
water, after being purified by lime, is collected in tanks,
and, separated from the solid matter, is discharged over
serated beds into the river. These extensive works were
completed at a cost of £27,000. Hawick has also an
abundant supply of gas. The old works being in-
sufficient, new works were erected in 1882 near the
sewerage works at a cost of £10,000.

The first bank established in the town was a branch
of the British Linen Co. in 1797. The business
previously was mainly carried on by a private banker,
Mr Turnbull, a very shrewd, able, and upright man, who
bought the estate of Fenwick, etc., and built the man-
sion of Brieryards. The other branch banks are the
Commercial Bank (1820), the National Bank (1852), the
Royal Bank (1856), and the National Security Savings'
Bank (1815). Among the public buildings are the Town
Hall, the Exchange, the Temperance Hall, several
hotels, and the Museum. There is also a large Com-
bination Poorhouse. Hawick enjoys the benefit of a Free
Library. There are four weekly newspapers — the Hawick

HAWICK

Advertiser, Express, Kcics, and Telegraph. Among its
numerous associations there are the Teviotdale Farmers'
Clulj, the "West Teviotdale Agricultural Societ\% the
"Working Men's Building Society, and several political
and educational associations. Hawick bears an im-
portant part in the South of Scotland Chamber of Com-
merce, and has a flourishing Archieological Society, by
which much learning and research have been brought
to bear on a great variety of interesting subjects, and
especially on the history and antiquities of the Borders.
There are several clubs for recreation and amusement.
The cricket club has a spacious and beautiful park near
the town, and the bowling clubs have two attractive
greens, finely kept and ornamented, all given by the
Duke of Buccleuch at a nominal rent. Ha^\•ick has long
maintained a corps of volunteers, which, in physicpe,
bearing, discipline, and general efficiency, ranks among
the foremost.

The original church is St Mary's, which dates from
1214, was rebuilt in 1763, and having been much
damaged by fire in ISSO, was restored at a cost of £2000,
the Duke of Buccleuch contributing above £1000 for
the purpose. It was from St ilary's that Sir Alex.
Kamsay of Dalhousie, a noble ancl patriotic knight,
while holding a court of justice, was dragged by Douglas
to Hermitage Castle, and in the dungeon there was
starved to death. Here also was interred the body of
"Walter, first Earl of Buccleuch, which was brought by
ship from London to Leith, and after many delays was
conveyed to Branxholm, and, carried thence attended
by a great body of retainers, was with much hera]<lic
pomp interred among his ancestors. St Mary's was the
parish church till 1844, when the large and handsome
edifice in the Xorman style of architecture, seated for
1300, built at the "W of the town at the expense of the
Duke of Buccleuch, was generously given by his Grace
to the parish church congregation, and became the parish
church. St Mary's became the property of the Duke,
and was made a quoad sacra church in 1860, the Duke
furnishing the greater part of the endowment. St John's
church, built in 1879-80 by subscription at a cost of
£6000, is a fine Early English structure with 800 sittings.
St John's is a quoad sacra parish. \Yilton parish chm'ch,
built in 1860, is a beautiful edifice, and contains 950
sittings. St Cuthbert's Episcopal church, a fine build-
ing in the Early Decorated style, was erected and en-
dowed by the Duke of Buccleuch. There are also three
Free churches, three U. P. churches, and a Congregational,
Baptist, and Roman Catholic church. In connection
with the parishes of Hawick and Wilton there are two
public cemeteries of large extent, finely situated and
ornamented and kept in beautiful order.

Consequent on the passing of the Education Act in
1872, there was a great increase in the number of the
scholars. The town previously was well supplied with
school accommodation. The parish school buildings
and teacher's residence, built at the expense of the Duke
of Buccleuch, were freely transferred to the school board,
as were the Industrial school (afterwards called Drum-
lanrig school) and St Mary's school. The parish school
of "Wilton was also transferred to the board. "With the
compulsory clause and the rapid advance of population,
additions were needed and have been carried out on a
large scale in all the older schools. A new scliool, a large
and elegant building with teacher's residence, was erected
on the Jedburgh road for the accommodation of children
in the XE end of the to\vn. The following are the
statistics of school accommodation, average attendance,
and government grants earned for the school year end-
ing 31 Oct. 1SS2 : — Buccleuch school Senior and Infant
642, 678, £541, 4s. ; Trinity Senior and Infant 424,
364, £318, 10s. ; Drumlanrig 508, 387, £312, 17s. 6ch ;
"Wilton 510, 406, £368, 2s. 3d. ; St Mary's Infant 232,
146, £112, lis. The total accommodation is 2316,
attendance 1981, grant £1653, 4s. 9d. Besides the
board schools there are academies and private schools,
and schools receiving government grants in connection
with the Episcopal and Eoman Catholic churches.
There are also Art and Scientific classes.

HAWICK

It is interesting to trace the progress of the town in
maniifactures to the rank which it now holds as th3
first manufacturing town in the South of Scotland.
Previous to the erection of any of the factories, and 150
years ago, the first and largest nursery and seed business
perhaps in the kingdom was established by Mr Dick-
sou, and carried on by his successors, the Messrs Dick-
son and Messrs Turnbull, till of late years. From these
nurseries there sprang the first nurseries in Edinburgh
and Perth, and numbers of trained gardeners were from
time to time sent forth to take charge at the seats
of noblemen and gentlemen of all the departments of
gardening.

Hawick, being the centre of a great pastoral region,
and having a number of waterfalls on the Teviut and
Slitrig, and a people characteiised by much intelli-
gence and enterprise, soon entered on the manufac-
turing career which has since made it famous. A
century ago lands, with the water all on the NAV side of
Teviot, were acquired from the estate of Langlands for
factory purposes, and some time afterwards the Duke of
Buccleuch gave 99 3-ears' leases of the lands on the E of
the Slitrig at a nominal rent. Before that time a com-
pany instituted the manufacture of carpets, table-covers,
and rugs. This trade continued till 1806, when it was
given up. The manufacture of broad linen tapes was
commenced in 1783 and carried on to 1800. The year
1771 is memorable in the annals of Hawick for the com-
mencement of the stocking manufacture and the intro-
duction of the stocking frame, an industry which rapidly
flourished, and is now carried on to such an extent as
places Hawick without a rival in Scotland for the making
of all kinds of hosiery. The honour of founding this
trade is due to Mr John Hardie, merchant, a bailie of
the town, a man of notable vigour and of great humour.
The yarn was carded in the town, and was spun by the
wives and daughters of farmers in the surrounding
country. The supply of yarn from the country being
inadequate for the demand, the manufacturers soon
afterwards introduced the new spinning machinery.
The first to bring it in were the Messrs Nixons and
Wilsons. Mr Hardie's enterprise was followed and ex-
tended by many of the predecessors of the firms of the
present time — the Wilsons, the Laings, the Watsons, the
Elliots, the Pringles, and the Laidlaws, who, besides the
manttfacture of hosiery, engaged in the manufacture of
flannels, shawls, plaids, and blankets. About 1830
various firms commenced the manufacture of slie}>lierd's
checks, the first kinds of twilled cloth, usually called
twills, and corrupted into the popular name of tweeds,
and these were followed by the many kinds of checks
and stripes, the endless variety of colours and mixtures
in the plain and fancy styles of all kinds of this famous
manufacture. Messrs Dicksons and Laings first introduced
power looms, and, with these and steam power in all
the factories, the trade rapidly grew into its present
magnitude. Several firms relinquished the making of
hosierj-, and confined their energy to the extended
making of tweeds, and now there are in Hawick several
of the largest and most prosperous tweed factories in
Scotland. Many of the improvements in the carding,
spinning, and weaving machinery were suggested and
carried out here in order to make the machinery for the
production of woollen goods equal to that employed in
cotton manufactories. Thereare now eleven tweed woollen
factories, all large, and supplied with the most improved
machinery. Great extensions in the hosiery manufac-
ture have been made by the introduction of power loom
machines, very complex and costly mechanisms, into
the larger factories of the two Messrs Laings, and of
Elliot & Pringle. Each of these, wrought by a w oman,
does the work of several men on the frame wrought by
hand. There are at present thirteen hosiery manu-
factories at work. Besides these, the great staple
industries, there are dye-works, tanneries, an oil manu-
factory, an iron foundr}-, and an engineering estab-
lishment. The steadiness of trade in Hawick is much
due to the absence of strikes and the good Iceling which
exists between the employers and theii- workers.

251

HAWICK

HAWICK

Coming to the oldest industry, grazing and agriculture,
Hawick has long been its centre in the Border counties.
This again has been ver}' greatly owing to the house of
Buccleuch. The lands far around were let on the easiest
terms, and for two centuries, considering the quality of
the soil, at a lower rent than anywhere known. This,
with the security of the tenure, engendered a state of
things which produced wealth, and as wealth grew the
desire arose on the part of the tenants to increase their
acres. Formerly a large number of small farms existed,
but as the stronger grew in intelligence and wealth,
they dispossessed their weaker neighbours, and prin-
ciples of political economy coming in to second those
eflbrts, the smaller farms were gradually extinguished,
and in the existence of the large and wealthy farms
now, we are brought to see an illustration of the sur-
vival of the fittest. The writer of this article is one
of those who regrets the extinction of so many
small farms, but however this may be, the Duke of
Buccleuch is the most generous of landlords. No-
where will one see better houses or more commodious
steadings than those which are seen in this Border land.
This circumstance, and the situation and prosperity of
the town, have made it a great market of grain, and
especially of live stock. The old fairs for the sale of
stock have long disappeared, and have been succeeded
by the well-known sales in the auction mart. One of
the first originators of these sales in Scotland was the
father of the present Mr Oliver of Thornwood, who has
long been known as one of the most extensive salesmen
by auction of live stock in the kingdom, and at whose
principal sales, attended by breeders from all parts, as
many as 25,000 sheep and lambs have been disposed of
in a single day. Besides his principal sales at the mart,
extending to many acres, near the railway station on the
river Haugh, covered with wooden pens, and a large
stone erection for the accommodation of cattle, there is
a weekly auction every Jlonday. The weekly corn
market is held on Thursday, and hiring, cattle, wool,
and sheep and lamb fairs are held at periods between
springtime and the beginning of winter.

The great public festival of the year is the Common
Riding, and is celebrated at the beginning of June. The
practice of riding the town's marches dates from time im-
memorial. On the morning of the first day the Cornet,
with his mounted troop, all gaily dressed, and bearing a flag
the facsimile of one which their ancestors captured from a
company of English soldiers in the neighbourhood, after
the battle of Flodden, rides round the municipal lands,
and this_ part of the ceremony is concluded by their
singing in the town, accompanied by the attending
multitude, the song of The Colour, the rousing martial
Common Riding song ! The music dates from the most
ancient times, and expresses more than any other air
the wild and defiant strain of the war tramp and the
battle shout. The song seems to have been founded in
the invocation of the early Saxon warriors to their chief
deities Thor and Odin before their conversion to the
Christian faith. In the Anglo-Saxon language it is
'Tyr hojbbe us, ye Tyr ye Odin,' which is 'May Tyr
have us, both Tyr and Odin.' The song has been
changed by local poets in its descent to recent times.
One refrain of it once was —

' T for Tiri, O for Odin,
H for Hawick, and C for Common.'

One of the older versions, still used, was composed
about a century ago by Arthur Balbirnie. It begins
thus— ^

' We'll a' hie to the muir a-ridinij, —
iJrunilanri]? gave us for providing —
Our ancestors of martial order,
To drive the English o'er the Border.

' Up wi' Hawick's rights and common.
Up wi' a' the Border Boicmen :
Teribus and Teri Odin,
We are up to ride our Common.'

The more popular song, and the one now sung after
the riding of the marches, was composed by James

Hogg nearly seventy years ago. The following are some
of the stanzas —

' Scotia felt thine ire, O Odin !
On the blood}- field of Flodden ;
There our fathers fell with honour,
Kound their king and country's banner.

' Terihus, ye Teri Odin,
Sons of heroes slain at Flodden,
Imitating Border Bowmen,
Aye defend your rights and Common.

' 'Twas then Drumlanrig, generous donor,
Gave (immortal be his honour) !
What might soothe Hawick's dire disaster,
Land for tillage, peats, and pasture.'

The song goes on to describe the victory of the Hawick
men over a plundering party of English soldiers below
the town ; and then concludes —

' " Hawick shall triumph 'mid destruction,"
Was a Druid's dark prediction ;
Strange the issues that unrolled it
Cent'ries after he'd foretold it.

' Peace be thy portion, Hawick, for ever !
Thine arts, thy commerce flourish ever '
Down to latest ages send it^
" Hawick was ever independent.' '

The present municipal constitution of the burgh
was established by a special act of parliament in
1861. It is governed
by a provost, 4 bailies,
and 12 councillors, who
also act as Police Com-
missioners. In 1867 it
acquired the rank of a
parliamentary burgh,
and, united with Gala-
shiels and Selkirk,
returns one member
to parliament. The
electors were fortunate
enough to secure the
services of the Right
Hon. George Otto
Trevelyan, one of
the most energetic
and distinguished of

the younger statesmen on the Liberal side, and between
him and the great body of his constituents there has
always been a harmony of political sentiment. The
annual value of real |)roperty rose from £33,652 in
1872 to £57,556 in 1883. The revenue derived from
the burgh property is £1765. The parliamentary
electors number 2470, the municipal 3013. The popu-
lation of the burgh extended to its present limits was
(1861) 10,401, (1871) 11,356, (1881) 16,184, and is
rapidly increasing.

The history of Hawick shows that the people have
been distinguished for intelligence, enterprise, courage,
and a love of political freedom. If few have attained to
lasting national distinction, it has always been rich in
humourists, poets, and local historians, who have
sweetened its native air and enrobed its romantic
scenery in the charms of literature. In his valuable
history James Wilson says — that Gawin Douglas, after-
wards Bishop of Dunkeld, was appointed rector of
Hawick in 1496. According to Dr Laing, the late
celebrated antiquary, the reading of the original
MS. is Haicche, which was the old name of Linton
or Prestonkirk, near Dunbar. It is therefore doubt-
ful at least whether the poet bishop tuned his Virgilian
verse by the banks of tlio Slitrig. The Rev. William
Fowler, parson of Hawick, was celebrated as a poet and
a scholar. Several of his pieces in MS. are preserved in
the library of the University of Edinburgh. The Rev.
Alexander Orrok, who died in 1711, a profound divine
and one of the leaders of the Church of Scotland, was a
man of warm and extensive charity, and a promoter of

Seal of Hawick.

HAWICK

higher education, leaving a large part of his property
for an endowment to the Grammar School. The Kev.
"William Crawford, minister of Wilton, who died in
1742, was the author of several religious works of a
high order, eminently practical, and much read through-
out the country. Dr Thomas Somerville, for nearly 60
j-ears minister of Jedburgh, and celebrated for his his-
tory of the reign of Queen Anne, was born in the parish
manse, and was the son of the minister. The Rev. Dr
John Young, minister of the first antiburgher congrega-
tion, a man of powerful ability-, was the author of various
works, and, among them, of a work in explanation and
defence of the British Constitution, a book written to
expose and counteract the revolutionary sentiments
which spread in many parts of the country after the
French Revolution. The book came to the notice of Mr
Pitt, who was so struck with its force, and impressed
with its utility for the times, that he .sent a complimen-
tary letter to Dr Young, and secured a pension for two
of his daughters. The parish of Wilton enjoyed for 53
years the ministry of Dr Samuel Charters, a man of
warm benevolence and exalted piety, a deep thinker, an
accomplished scholar, a Christian philosopher, whose
excellences shine in his published sermons, and in his less
known Essay on Bashfidness, which reveals such a de-
licate knowledge of the human heart, and such a power
of portraying its most tender movements, as to give him
a pjlace among the more famous sentimentalists of the
laud. Mr Robert Wilson, a native of the town, and de-
voted to its interests, published his history of Hawick
in 1825. The annals of the town and neighbourhood,
after much and learned research, were compiled by Mr
James Wilson, the town clerk, and were published in
1850. This work has been much approved, has been
widely circulated, and has stimulated the production
of similar annals of other towns. Foremost, however,
of all the citizens of Hawick in national reputation,
stands James Wilson, long the editor of the Economist,
and the chief expounder of the principles of political
economy which have been widely dominant throughout
the empire. Having entered Parliament he rose in
influence and authority, and at a very peculiar and
critical juncture in our Eastern affairs, after the ilutiny,
was appointed and sent out to act as the Finance Minister
of India. He brought his great knowledge and energy
to bear on the accumulated difficulties which met him,
and in a short time succeeded in promoting the most
beneficial improvements in the regulation of taxation
and finance. But very soon his career was terminated
by a fatal disease induced by his extraordinarj- exertions,
and he died to live in the memory of his contemporaries,
and ir the role of the gi-eat and beneficent statesmen
whom Britain has been enabled to give to sway the
destinies of the Indian Empire.

Previous to 1850 the parish of Hawick reached from
Teviot stone, the source of the river, to 1 mile below the
town, 16 miles long, by 2 to 3 miles broad. It thus in-
cluded a large part of the vale of the ' sweet and silver
Teviot. ' In the above j'ear the larger part was disjoined,
and, with a con.siderable part of the parish of Cavers,
was formed into the quoad omnia, parish of Teviothead.
The Duke of Buccleuch was here also the benefactor,
building both church and manse at his own expense,
giving ground for the glebe, and furnishing the
greatest part of the stipend. The parish is 6 miles from
SW to NE, 3 miles broad, and contains 6203;^ acres, of
which 90f are water. At the hamlet of Newmill, at the
upper end, there is a landward school, with schoolhouse,
with accommodation for 117 children, an average atten-
dance of 72, and a grant of £70, 14s. The scenery of
the parish is soft and beautiful throughout — Teviot,
with its tributaries, the Allan, the Borthwick, and the
Slitrig, flowing through smiling valleys richly cultivated,
rising into slopes and knolls crowned with woods, and
backed liy ranges of undulating hills. Branxholm stands
on an elevated ten'ace above the Teviot, rich in its an-
cient woods, the scene of Sir Walter Scott's Lay of the
Lad Minstrel, and of one of Allan Ramsay's finest songs,
dedicated to The Bonnie Lass oj Branksome —

HAWTHORNDEN

'As I cam' in by Teviotside,
And by the braes of Branksome,
Tliere first I saw my blooming bride.
Young-, smiling-, sweet, and handsome.'

Nearer the town, and on a beautiful eminence which
commands one of the finest views on the Border, stands
the ancient tower or peel of Goldielands, one of the
most complete now in the South of Scotland. It has
been already mentioned that the approach to the town,
alongside the parks and woods of Teviot Lodge, is of
remarkable beauty, and, after lea\-ing the town, fair
Teviot has the same tale to tell. The'valuation of the
landward parish was £4547 in 1882. In 1881 the popu-
lation of the entire parish was 11,758, of whom 5211
were in Hawick parish, 3464 in St Mary's (lU.oud sacra,
and 3083 in St John's quoad sacra.

' Sweet Te^aot, on thy silver tide,

Tlie g-laring bale-fires blaze no more,
No longer steel-clad warrioi-s ride
Along thy -nild and willowed' shore.

'All now is changed, and halcyon years

Succeed the feudal baron's sway ;
And trade, with arts and peace, appears,
To bless fair Scotia's happier day.'

Hawkhead, an estate, with a mansion, in Abbey
parish, Renfrewshire, on the left bank of the White
Cart, 2^ miles SE of Paisley. It belonged in the
middle of the 15th century to the doughty Sir John
Ross, whose son and namesake appears in the parlia-
ment roll of 1489-90 as the first Baron Ross of Hawk-
head — a title that expired with the fourteenth Lord in
1754. The estate passed first to his eldest sister, Mrs
Ross Mackye, and next to a younger sister, Elizabeth,
widow of the third Earl of Glasgow. Her son, the
fourth Earl, succeeded her in 1791, and in 1815 was
created Baron Ross of Hawkhead in the peerage of the
United Kingdom. (See Kelsuene Castle. ) Hawkhead
House, originally a large ancient tower, underwent such
enlargement in the time of Charles I. as to take the
form of a quadrangle. It was visited in 1681 by the
Duke of York, afterwards James VII. Repairecl and
improved in 1782, it is now^ an irregular pile of antique
appearance, with gardens originally formed in the Dutch
style, and a finely-wooded park. — Ord. ,Sar.,sh. 30, 1866.

Hawthomden, the romantic home of the poet Drum-
moud, in Lasswade parish, Edinburghshire, 1:^ mile NE
of Roslin, and 5 furlongs NW of Hawthornden Junction
on the Peebles branch of the North British, this being
11:J miles S by E of Edinburgh. Standing upon the
steep right bank of the North Esk's rocky pine-clad
glen, classic Hawthornden is 'a venerable and pictur-
esque looking edifice. The left side, as you face it, con-
sists of a hoar}' mass of ivy-clad masonrj', pjerhaps 600
years old, while the inhabited part to the right is a
pleasant irregular hotise, with gables and a turret in the
style of the 17th centur}'.' Over the doorway are carved
in marble the armorial bearings of Dr William Aber-
nethy Drummond (1720-1809), Bishop of Edinburgh ;
and near them is a Latin inscription by the poet, telling
how in 1638 he restored the house for himseK and hif
successors ; whilst a tablet, placed by the Bishop on tht
gable, runs — ' To the memory of Sir Lawrence Aber-
nethy of Hawthornden, a brave and gallant soldier, who
in 1338 conquered Lord Douglas five times in one day,
yet was taken prisoner before sunset.' Within, the
most interesting objects are a great two-handed sword,
Robert Bruce's 'tis said ; a good portrait of the poet's
father, Sir John Drummond, who was gentleman-usher
to James VI. ; and a poor one of the poet himself. He,
William Drummond, the ' Scottish Petrarch,' was born
here on 13 Dec. 1585 ; here in the winter of 1618-19 he
entertained Ben Jonson, who had walked from London
to Edinburgh; and, here, broken-hearted by Charles I.'s
execution, he died on 4 Dec. 1649. The present owner
is Sir James Hamlyn Williams-Drummond, fourth Bart.
since 1828 (b. 1857 ; sue. 1868). The gi'ounds are of
great beauty, and contain a large sycamore, called the
'Four Sisters' or 'Ben Jonson's Tree,' whilst a rocky-
seat is named the ' Cypress Grove ' after Druramond'a

253

HAYLAND

first published production. Sonic curious artificial caves
are in cliffs below the mansion and further up the North
Esk's ravine. Formed, it would seem, with prodigious
labour out of solid rock, they communicate one with
another by long passages, and have access to a draw-well
of great depth, bored from the court-yard of the man-
sion. Like the ' earth-houses ' of the North, they pro-
bably belong to prehistoric times. Three of them bear
the names of the King's gallery, the King's bedchamber,
and the King's dining-room ; and they were occupied in
133S as military retreats by the adventurous baud of
Sir Alexander Ramsay of Dalhousic. These caves were
visited, on 14 Sept. 1842, by Queen Victoria. A fine
view is got of Hawthornden from a point of rock over-
lianging the river, and popularly called John Knox's
pulpit :

' The spot is wild, the banks are steep,
With eglantine and hawthorn blossom'd o'er,
Lychnis, and daffodils, and hare-bells blue ;
From lofty granite crags precipitous.
The oak, with scanty footing, topples o'er.
Tossing his limbs to heaven ; and, from the cleft.
Fringing the dark-bruwn natural battlements,
Tlie hazel throws his silvery branches down ;
Then, starting into view, a castled cliff.
Whose roof is lichen'd o'er, purple and green,
O'erhangs thy wandering stream, romantic Esk,
And rears its head among the ancient trees.'

See Prof. David Masson's Drummovd of Hawthornden
(Lond. 1873), and John Small's Castles and Mansions of
the Lothians {Edinh. ISSS).— Orel. Sur., sh. 32, 1857.

Hayland or Hailan, Loch. See Dunnet.

Hayocks, an estate, with a mansion, in Stevenston
parish, Ayrshire, 1 mile NE of the town.

Haystoun, a farmhouse in Peebles parish, Peebles-
shire, amid fine old trees on a knoll overhanging the
right bank of Glensax Burn, 2 miles S by E of Peebles
town. Built in 1660, and forming three sides of a cptad-
rangle, it is a good example of an old-fashioned country-
seat ; and over its chief entrance has a tablet, sculptured
with the armorial bearings of the Hays, who acquired
the estate in the course of the 16th and 17th centuries.
Its present proprietor. Sir Robert Hay of Smithfield and
Haystoun, eighth Bart, since 1635 (b. 1825 ; sue. 1867),
holds 9755 acres, valued at £4515 per annum. The
reach of Glensax Burn through the grounds is often
called Haystoun Burn. — Orel. Sur., sh. 24, 1864.

Haywood. See Heywoob.

Hazelbank, a village in Lesmahagow parish, Lanark-
shire, on tlie left bank of the Clyde, near Stonebyres
Fall, 3^ miles WNW of Lanark. Pop. (1881) .319.

Hazlefield House, a mansion in Rerwick parish, Kirk-
cudbrightshire, lOi miles SSW of Dalbeattie.

Hazlehead, a mansion in Newhills parish, Aberdeen-
shire, 3 miles W by S of Alierdeen. The estate, 832
acres, has a 3-early value of £1130.

Heacamhall, Heacle, or Hecla. See Uist, South.

Head of Asn:, a rocky, precipitous headland in May-
bole palish, Ayrshire, Hanking the S side of the Bay of
Ayr, 4 miles SW of Ayr town. Abutting from the
northern skirt of Brown Cahrick Hill, it has an alti-
tude of 258 feet above sea-level, and consists of black,
earthy, tufaceous trap, traversed at one part by a thick
basaltic vein. — Orel. Sur., sh. 14, 1863.

Hearthstane Bum. See Hauestane.

Hebrides or Western Islands, a large group or series
of groups of islands and islets extending along the
gi'eater portion of the western coast of Scotland.
Anciently, the Hebrides comprehended also the islands
in the Firth of Clyde, the peninsula of Kintyrc S of the
narrow neck of land between East and AVest Loch Tar-
bert, the island of Rathlin off the NE coast of Ireland,
and even the Isle of .Man, but the modern Hebrides
embrace only the islands flanking the W coast from
Capo Wrath on the N to Kintyre on the S, and extend-
ing from 58" 32' of N latitude to 55° 33', or a distance,
measuring in a straight line from the Butt of Lewis on
the N to the Mull of Lslay on the S, of 205 miles. The
wlands arc divided into two main groups, the Inner
Hebrides and the Outer Hebrides. The former extend
254

HEBRIDES

along the coast for 150 miles, measuring in n. straight
line from the Point of Aird at the N end of Skyc to the
Mull of lslay at the S end of the island of that name ;
and the distance of the various islands from the main-
land varies from less than half a mile at the narrow
strait of Kyle Rhea, at the SE corner of Skye, to 18^
miles at the N end of Skye, 5U at Tyree, and 21
at the S end of lslay. The Inner Hebrides are divided
into two portions by the Point of Ardnamurchan. The
division to the N may be called the Skye group, and
consists of Skye with the adjacent islands of South
Rona, Fladda, Paasay, Scalpa, Longa, Pabbay, Soay,
Canna, Rum, Eigg, and Muck, and a number of smaller
islets. Thebe are separated from the mainland by part
of the IMinch, the Inner Sound, Kyle Akin, the mouth
of Loch Alsh, Kyle Khea, Glenelg Bay, and the Sound
of Sleat. All the islands belong to the county of Inver-
ness, except Rum, Canna, Muck, Sandy, which are in
Argyll, and some small islets close inshore along the
coast to the N of Loch Alsh, which are in Ross-shire.
Rum, Eigg, Canna, Muck, and Sandy are known as
the Small Isles. The division S of xVrdnamurchan falls
into two sub-divisions — the Mull group extending from
Ardnamurchan S to the Firth of Lome, and the lslay
group extending from the Firth of Lome southward
along the coast of Kintyre. The first group contains
Mull, -nith the cluster of islands round it, viz., Lis-
more, Kerrera, lona, Staffa, Eorsa, Gometra, and Ulva,
while westward are the small group of the Treshinish
Islands, and still farther W the islands of Coll and TjTce.
Besides these there are a number of smaller islets, in-
cluding, to the SSW of Tyree, the rock on which the
Skerryvore Lighthouse is built. The group is separ-
ated from the mainland by the Sound of Mull, the
sound between Lismore and the mainland, and the
Sound of Kerrera. The second group has the largest
island, lslay, at the extreme S end, and gradually tapers
to the NNE by Jura, Scarba, Luing, Shuna, and. Sell.
To the E of Islaj^, and within a mile and a half of the
Kintyre coast, is the island of Gigha, while to the W of
Jura are Colonsay and Oronsay. The group is separated
from the mainland by the narrow passages to the E of
Seil and Shuna, and farther S by the Sound of Jura.
The whole of the islands S of Ardnamurchan are in
the county of Argyll.

The Outer Hebrides or Long Island group lies to the
W of the Inner Plebrides, and has the long triangular
portion known as Lewis to the N, and an extended
irregular chain tapering away in a S by W direction.
The northern extremity is W by S of Cape Wrath, and
distant from it 46 miles, while the southern extremity
at Barra Head is W by N of Ardnamurchan, and dis-
tant from it 54 miles. The islands extend from N
latitiule 58° 31' at the Butt of Lewis, to 56° 48' at Barra
Head, and over a distance, measuring in a straight line
between these two points, of about 130 miles ; and they
are so closely connected that the whole chain is often
spoken of as the Long Island. To the N is the largest
island of the Hebrides, the northern part of which is
known as Lewis, while the southern part is called
Harris. Off the NE of Lewis are the Shiant Isles,
while on the AV side, in Loch Roag, is the island of Great
Bernera. Off the E coast of Harris, at the entrance to
East Loch Tarbcrt, is the island of Scalpa, while on the
W and S are Scarpa, Taransaj^, Ensay, Killigray, Groaj%
and a very largo number of smaller islands and islets.
Separated from this island by the Sound of Harris is the
island of North Uist ; and across a narrow channel
about ^ mile wide, still farther S, is Benbecula. To the
S of Benbecula, and sejiarated from it by the Sound of
Benbecula, is South Uist, with the Sound of Barra at
its southern extremity ; and to the S of this lies the last
sub-group of the Outer Helirides known as the Barra
Isles. North and South Uist and Benbecula in reality
form only one island, as the straits separating them are
fordable between half tide and low water. At the N
end of North Uist are the smaller islands of Shillay,
Pabbay, Berneray, Boveray, Valay, Tahay, Hermetray ;
on the SE are Flodda, Rona, and Grimisay ; while to

HE£BIDES

the SW is Baleshare Island, with 8 miles to the W the
group of small islands known as the Monacli Islands.
There are a number of islets about Benbecula, but the
only one of any size is Wiay at the NE corner. Con-
nected with South Uist the only islands of importance
are Eriskay and Lingay at the S end. Of the iJarra
Isles the principal is Barra, with the isles of Fioray,
Fuda, Gighay, and Hellisay, at the N end ; and
Vatersay, Muldoanich, Flodday, Sanderay, Lingay, and
Pabbay ; while farther S still are Mingalay and Bernera,
the latter being the most southerly of all the Outer
Hebrides. About 20 miles off the centre of the W coast
of Lewis is the small group of the Flannan Isles or the
Seven Hunters. Sixty miles W of Harris in N latitude
57° 49' 20", ' set far amid the melancholy main,' is the
small group consisting of St Kilda and the adjacent
islets of Levenish, Soa, and Boreray. Lewis is separated
from the W coast of Ross and Sutherland by the arm of
the Atlantic called the ilinch, which is from 24 to 40
miles wide ; while Harris, North Uist, and Benbecula
are separated from Skye by the Little Minch, which is
from 15 to IS miles wide. A line following the course
of the stream flowing into the head of Loch Resort, and
then turning round the S end of the high ground
between Loch Langabhat and Loch Seaforth, and
reaching the latter about the centre of the W side,
opposite the centre of Eilean Seaforth, is the boundary
between Lewis and Harris. The former, with the
Shiant Isles, belongs to the county of Eoss ; Harris and
all the other islands to the S are in Inverness-shire.
' The disposition,' says Hugh Miller in his Cruise of the
Betsey, ' of land and water on this coast suggests the
idea that the Western Highlands, from the line in the
interior whence the rivers descend to the Atlantic with
the islands beyond to the Outer Hebrides, are all parts
of one great mountainous plain, inclined slantways into
the sea. First the long withdrawing valleys of the
mainland, with their brown mossy streams, change
their character as they dip beneath the sea-level and
become salt-water lochs. The lines of hills that rise
over them jut out as promontories, till cut off by some
transverse valley, lowered still more deeply into the
brine, and that exists as a kyle, minch, or sound, swept
twice every tide by powerful currents. The sea deepens
as the plain slopes downward ; mountain-chains stand
up out of the water as larger islands, single mountains
as smaller ones, lower eminences as mere groups of
pointed rocks ; till at length, as we pass outwards, all
trace of the submerged land disappears, and the wide
ocean stretches out and away its unfathomable depths.
. . . But an examination of the geology of the coast,
with its promontories and islands, commirnicates a
different idea. These islands and promontories prove
to be of very various ages and origin. The Outer
Hebrides may have existed as the inner skeleton of
some ancient country contemporary with the mainland,
and that bore on its upper soils the productions of
perished creations at a time when by much the larger
portion of the Inner Hebrides — Skye and Mull and the
Small Isles — existed as part of the bottom of a wide
sound inhabited by the Cephalopoda and Enaliosaurians
of the Lias and the Oolite.' The rock of the Outer
Hebrides is gneiss, as is also that of lona, Tyree, and
Coll, and it is to the hard tough nature of this that
their continued existence is still due, for, acting as a
screen to protect the western coast of the mainland from
the wild waves of the Atlantic, they have to withstand
the fury of a surge that would probably have long since
destroyed anything less durable. Even as it is, the
broken character of the groups, the winding character
of the coast-lines, and the number and the twisting
shores of the bays and lochs attest the severity of the
struggle. The currents and waves in the narrow straits
and passages are everywhere powerful and dangerous,
and require the greatest skill and care in their naviga-
tion, while in stormy weather they are often for days,
and sometimes even for weeks, quite impassable. ' The
steamship ploughs her way through the passage, though
sometimes with difficulty, and those who stand on her

HEBRIDES

deck look down on the boiling gulf in safety, but it is
different with those who sit in a tiny craft with the
water lapping around and over them, and the bubbling
roar painfully audible. These tideways are ugly indeed
to the seaman's eye.' One of the most dreaded passages
is the Gulf of Corrievrechan between Scarba and Jura.
It ' is the Hebridean Mahlstrom, ever regarded with
fearful eyes by the most daring sailors of the inland
deep. Poets may be allowed to sing like Campbell of
' ' the distant isles that hear the loud Corbrechtan
roar ; " or, like Scott, of

' " Scarba's isle, whose tortured shore
Still rings to Corryvreckan's roar," '

but the dread in the heart of the seaman is far from
poetical, for, much as the accounts have been exag-
gerated, the danger is very real here as elsewhere, ' con-
sisting, not in the whirlpools, but in the terrific sea,
raised by the wind when contending with the tidal
wave and the long Atlantic swell in the narrow passage
of the sound. . . . Caught in the numberless cur-
rents, a ship becomes at once unmanageable, and must
drive whither Fate directs, either to strike on some
corner of the coast, or to spring her planks and sink to
the bottom ; or perhaps, as happened on one traditional
occasion, to be swept in safety out of the tide along the
Jura shore. In the most dangerous part of the gulf,
where it is a hundred fathoms deep, there is a sub-
merged pyramidal rock, rising precipitously to within
fifteen feet of the surface, and the result is a sub-
aqueous overfall, causing in its turn infinite gyrations,
eddies, and counter-currents. There is most danger at
the flood tide, which sets from the eastward through
the gulf at the rate of ten or twelve miles an hour, and
encounters the whole swell of the "Western Atlantic
rolling into the narrow sound. At the turn of the tide
there is a brief lull, during which in calm weather boats
have passed through ; but the attempt is at all times to
be avoided, as the slightest miscalculation as to the
tides, or the sudden rising of the wind, would render
escape impossible. ' The roar of Corrievrechan is heard
at all times at a considerable distance. In all the
narrower passages the tidal currents run so strong, that
it is cj^uite impossible for a sailing vessel to attempt to
oppose them. The water whirls and seethes and boils,
tossing boat or vessel aboiit, now in one direction, now
in another, and carrying either helplessly forward, for
unless the wind be very fresh, it is left behind, and the
helm is useless. The squalls, too, are very dangerous
and fickle, and the Minch is particularly noted for its
stormy seas. ' Go in December, ' says Robert Buchanan,
in speaking of the wildness of the Hebridean straits, ' to
the Sound of Harris, and on some stormy day gaze on
the wild scene around you ; the whirling waters, sown
everywhere with isles and rocks — here the tide foaming
round and round in an eddy powerful enough to drag
along the largest ship — there a huge patch of sea-weed
staining the waves, and betraying the lurking reef
below. . . . Watch the terrors of the great Sound,
the countless reefs and rocks, the eddies, the furious
wind-swept waters, and pray for the strange seamen
whose fate it may be to drive helplessly thither. Better
the great ocean in all its terror and might.'

The scenery of the Inner Hebrides does not differ
very much from that of the barer and wilder parts of
the Highlands. There are the same rugged mountains,
with stretches of moorland or peat moss alternating with
rough pasture or stony waste, the same hill crofts, and the
same cultivated districts in the low grounds and along
the courses of the streams or the shores of some of the
bays. In the Outer Hebrides, however, the difference is
considerable. There the islands are destitute of wood ;
and though they are all more or less hilly, the hills are
low, except in Harris, where they reach an extreme
height of 2662 feet, and they are, besides, everywhere
so sinooth and heavy in their outlines as to possess but
little grandeur. To the S of the Sound of Harris,
between that island and North Uist, the hilly ground is
chieflv confined to the E coast, while the western shore

255

HEBRIDES

is flat, and still further S there are wide tracts of peat-
moss. The cliffs are generally too low to show any-
striking rock scenery ; but the shores of Lewis in many
places form an exception, as do also the cliffs of the
islands of Bernera and Jlingalay at the extreme S, which
rise to a height of over 1000 feet, and are the dwelling-
places of enormous numbers of sea-birds. Tame as the
scenery in general may seem, however, to be, there are
times and seasons when it presents aspects of beauty
and grandeur. 'What,' says Macgillivray, 'can be
more delightful than a midnight walk by moonlight
along the lone sea-beach of some secluded isle, the
glassy sea sending from its surface a long stream of
dancing and dazzling light ; no sound to be heard save
the small ripple of the idle wavelet, or the scream of a
sea-bird watching the fry that swarms along the shores !
In the short nights of summer the melancholy song of
the throstle has scarcely ceased on the hill-side, when
the merry carol of the lark commences, and the plover
and snipe sound their shrill pipe. Again, how glorious
is the scene which presents itself from the summit of
one of the loftier hills, when the great ocean is seen
glowing with the last splendour of the setting sun, and
the lofty isles of St Kilda rear their giant heads amid
the purple blaze on the extreme verge of the horizon.'
In another passage he thus draws the picture of the
winter storms: 'After a continued gale of westerly
^vinds, the Atlantic rolls in its enormous billows upon
the western coasts, dashing them with inconceivable
fury upon the headlands, and scouring the sounds aud
creeks, which, from the number of shoals and sunk
rocks in them, often exhibit the magnificent spectacle
of ten-ific ranges of breakers extending for miles. Let
any one who wishes to have some conception of the
sublime, station himself upon a headland of the W coast
of Harris during the violence of a winter tempest, and
he will obtain it. The blast howls among the grim and
desolate rocks around him. Black clouds are seen
advancing from the W in fearful masses, pouring forth
torrents of rain and hail. A sudden flash illuminates
the gloom, and is followed by the deafening roar of the
thunder, which gradually becomes fainter, until the
roar of the waves upon the shore prevails over it.
Meantime, far as the eye can reach, the ocean boils and
heaves, presenting one wide-extencled field of foam, the
spray from the summits oF the billows sweeping along
its surface like drifted snow. No sign of life is to be
seen, save when a gull, labouring hard to bear itself up
against the blast, hovers overhead, or shoots athwart
the gloom like a meteor. Long ranges of giant waves
rush in succession towards the shores. The thunder of
the shock echoes among the crevices and caves ; the
spray mouuts along the face of the cliffs to an astonish-
ing height ; the rocks shake to their summit ; and the
baffled wave rolls back to meet its advancing successor. '
The Hebrides are, however, seen to most advantage
in distant sea views, and these, whether from the main-
land or from amid the islands themselves, are always
strikingly picturesque, and in many cases cause a
pleasant surprise by their wild and lonely beauty.
Coleridge says that the distant view of the Hebrides
from some point he had forgotten was one of the five
finest things in Scotland. The point was probably that
which afforded him his first view from the SE about
Kintyre, and though his idea is a somewhat exaggerated
one, yet, under good conditions of light, the appearance
thus presented is very fine. Hugh Miller has thus
described an evening view from the W coast of Ross-shire
at the Gairloch : — ' How excjui-sitcly the sun sets in a clear
calm summer evening over the blue Hebrides ! Within
less than a mile of our barrack there rose a tall hill, whose
bold summit commanded all the Western Isles from Sleat
in Skye to the Butt of Lewis. To the south lay the
tra]i islands ; to the north and west the gneiss ones.
They formed, however, seen from this hill, one great
group which, just as the sun ha<l sunk, and sea and sky
were so equally bathed in gold, as to exhibit on the
horizon no dividing line, seemed in their transi)arent
I>urj)le— darker or lighter accordintr to the distance — a
256

HEBRIDES

group of lovely clouds, that, though moveless in the
calm, the first light breeze might sweep away. Even
the flat promontories of sandstone, which, like out-
stretched arms, enclosed the outer reaches of the fore-
ground— promontories edged with lov/ red cliffs, and
covered with brown heath — used to borrow at these
times from the soft yellow beam a beauty not their own.
Amid the inequalities of the gneiss regions within — a
region more broken and precipitous, but of humbler
altitude than the great gneiss tract of the midland
Highlands — the chequered light and shade lay, as the
sun declined in strongly contrasted patches, that be-
trayed the abrupt inequalities of the ground, and bore
when all around was warm-tinted and bright, a hue of
cold neutral grey.' Cuthbert Bede, in referring to a
sunset view from the Kintyre end, speaks in similar
terms of ' the long stretch of Islay and Jura with their
purple peaks standing out so sharply against the broad
bars of molten gold, and the nearer islets floating in a
sea whose hue changed from bright emerald to deepest
violet, with countless sparkles at every throb.' Viewed
from the Sound of Jura the conical and far-seeing Paps
of Jura close up the view immediately on the N, and
rise to a height of 2569 feet ; the north-eastern point
of Islay is screened by the dark and broken precipices
of M'Carter's Head ; the eastern entrance of the sound
seems dotted over with islets, or walled across with the
spray of the vexed waters ; Colonsay lies away to the W,
aud on the E the rugged summits of Arran tower aloft
in the distance, and over the intervening seas and the
peninsula of Kintyre. From DunoUy Castle, near Oban,
there is an excellent view of the S group of the inner
Hebrides, while from Ardnamurchan there is one still
more extensive and impressive. ' To the south lies Mull in
mist, piling her dull vast hills out above the line of break-
ing foam ; while away to the south-west, cairn after cairn
looming through the water show where barren Coll is
weltering in the gloomy waste. To the far west, only
cloud resting on cloud, above the dim unbroken water-
line of the Atlantic. But northward all brightens, for
the storm has passed thence with the wind, and the
sunlight has crept out cold and clear on craggy Rum,
whose heights stretch grey and ghostlj' against a cloud-
less sky. Hard by, in shadow, looms the gigantic
Scaur of Eig, looking down on the low and grassy line
of Muck,

' " Set as an emerald in the casing sea."

Beyond all these, peeping between Rum and Eig, pen-
cilled in faint aud ghostly peaks hued like the heron's
breast, are the wondrous Cuchullin Hills of Skye — born
of the volcano on some strange morning in the age of
mighty births. The eye seeks to go no farther. It
rests on those still heights, and in a moment the perfect
sense of solitude glides into the soul ; thought seems
stationary, brooding over life subdued.' Lord Teign-
niouth, indeed, speaking of Skye, is bold enough to
claim that 'the grandest scenery perhaps of Scotland
occurs in the south-eastern division of the island.
Crossing Loch Slapin, I proceeded along the rugged
coast of Strath to its point called the Aird, a promon-
tory which — penetrated by caverns, or severed into
buttresses, in some places projecting far in tabulated
ledges over the sea, tinted richly with j-ellow, green,
and other colours — presents a strikingly beautiful and
majestic front to the stormy ocean, to the ravages of
which its shattered and perforated precipices bear ample
testimony. Reflecting tlie rays of an unclouded sun, it
offered a brilliant contrast to the dark forms of Rum
and the neighbouring islands which rose to the south-
ward. We rowed slowly under the Aird, as every cove
or buttress deserves attention, till the opposite headland
beyond Loch Scavaig discovered itself, and as we entered
the bay the precipitous and serrated ridges of the Coolin
Mountains towered in all their grandeur above the
shores, terminating a persjiective formed by the steep
side of the two prominent buttresses of the range, and
enclosing the gloomy valley and deep dark waters of Loch
Coruisk, from which the principal peaks rise abruiitly.'

HEBRIDES

HEBRIDES

One very peculiar feature of the Hebrides is the im-
mense number of lochs scattered everywhere about, and,
indeed, taking them all in all, there is no part of the
known world more watered from above and from below
than the Hebrides, for during more than two-thirds of
the year they are drenched with almost incessant rain,
while, wherever the islands are not intersected by wind-
ing arms of the sea, they abound in rivulets or fresh-
water lakes. Immense numbers of tiny waterfalls streak
their cliffs where little burns rush down, and gradually
gather into larger streams. Of these last, upwards of
forty are large enough to contain salmon, and they also
aboimd in trout and eels. Lakes and lochans are so
numerous, particularly in the Outer Hebrides, as to
almost defy numeration. They are everywhere 'as
thickly sown amid the land as islands amid the Pacific
waters. ' The lakes in North Uist aione, which measures
about 13 by 16^ miles, were counted by one careful
observer up to the nnmber of 170, and these wei'C sup-
plemented by such a number of lochans that it was too
tedious to reckon them. The entire number of lochs in
the Hebrides may indeed be safely computed at 1500,
and their area as extending over 50,000 acres, of which
those of Lewis and Uist alone cover more than half.
These lakes, though they frecjuently interrupt communi-
cation and occasion other inconveniences, offer but little
compensation in return except by providing breeding
and dwelling places for various species of water birds
and of fish. They are mostly shallow, none exceeding
3 or 4 fathoms in depth, and are indeed, both in them-
selves and in their surroundings, of a character such as
the genius of improvement would seek to banish alto-
gether. The islands are also extensively intersected by
inlets and arms of the sea, many of which have winding
shores, vnth. narrow fiords branching off in all directions,
and spreading about in a regular network of waters.
Loch ]\Iaddy, for instance, in North Uist, has only a
surface area of 10 miles, but yet its shore-line measures
fully 300 miles. So numerous and branching are these
sea-lochs that their windings give the islands a coast-
line of about 4000 miles, and their deep and long-reach-
ing bays are eminently valuable in connection with the
fishings for the sheltered harbours they afford for boats
and ships.

The area of the Hebrides, exclusive of foreshores and
the larger lochs, is in round numbers 1,800,000 acres or
2812 square miles. As regards size, the islands may be
distributed into four classes. The first class, containing
the largest islands, includes Islay, Jura, Mull, Skye,
both Uists, and Harris and Lewis, and these taken
together comprehend about eight-ninths of the entire
area. The second class includes Gigha, Colonsay, Luing,
Sell, Kerrera, Lismore, Ulva, Gometra, Tyree, Coll,
Eigg, Rum, Raasay, Rona, 15arra, Benbecula, and Ber-
nera. The third class includes Scarba, Lunga, Easdale,
Inniskenneth, lona. Muck, Canna, Scalpa, Fladda,
Flodda, Eriskay, Pabbay, Boveray, and Taransay.
The fourth class includes about 120 tiny islets with
some little productive value, and a large number of
rocky islets and skerries. Inclusive of these last the
entire number of islands and islets has been set down
in round numbers as 500, but understanding islands
and islets to be objects which on a large map have a
distinct figure and characteristic outline, the number is
reduced to about 160, and of these 100 are at present —
1883 — inhabited all the year round, while a number of
others are inhabited temporarily during the summer
months only. The inhabited islands, with their popu-
lations in 1871 and 1881 respectively, are as follows: —
In Argyllshire, Balnahua (146 ; 108), Calve (7 ; 10),
Canna (48 ; 57), Cara (4 ; 4), Carna (9 ; 7), Coll (723 ;
643), Colonsay (408 ; 387), Danna (54 ; 40), Devaar (5 ;
5), Duirinish (4 ; 24), Easdale (504 ; 460), Earrait (122;
51), Eriska (5 ; 7), Frielhouse (3 ; 1), Garvelloch (10 ;
0), Gigha (386 ; 378), Gometra (26 ; 30), Inniskenneth
(8 ; 8), lona (236 ; 243), Islay (8143 ; 7559), Jura (761 ;
773), Kerrera (101; 103), Lismore (720; 621), Luing
(582 ; 527), Lunga (5 ; 17), MacCaskin (8 ; 6), Muck
(53 ; 51), Mull (5947 ; 5229), Musdale (10 ; 9), Oronsay

in Morvern (17 ; 0), Oronsay beside Colonsay (^48 ; 10),
Oversay (13 ; 15), Pladda at Jura (9 ; 10), Rum (81 ;
89), Sanda (57 ; 14), Sanday (58 ; 62), Scarba (7 ; 19),
Seil (731 ; 661), Sheep in Kilbrandon (4 ; 2), Sheep off
Lismore (6 ; 4), Shuna in Kilbrandon (15 ; 14), Shuna
off Lismore (14 ; 8), Skerryvore (3 ; 3), Skerryvuille
(14 ; 19), Torsay (20 ; 10), Tyree (2834 ; 2730), Ulva off
Kintyre (19 ; 19), Ulva in Kilninian (71 ; 53). In
Inverness-shire are Balleshare (246 ; 266), Barra (1753 ;
1869), Benbecula (1563; 1661), Bernera (373; 452),
Berneray (38 ; 72), Boveray (146 ; 137), Calvay (0 ; 6),
Eigg (282 ; 291), Ensay (6 ; 6), Eriskay (429 ; 466),
Fladda (76; 87), Flodda (54; 54), Fuda (6; 6), Grimisay
in North Uist (283 ; 292), Grimisay in South Uist (6 ;
28), Harris (3008 ; 3463), Heisker (114 ; 111), Hellisay
(5 ; 9), Hut (6 ; 10), Killigray (9 ; 6), Kirkibost (9 ; 12),
Levera (8 ; 11), Mhorgay"(8 ; 6), Mingalay (141 ; 150),
Monach (11 ; 13), Ornsay (42 ; 47), Pabbay off Barra
(24 ; 26), Pabbay off Harris (8 ; 2), Pabbay off Strath
(6; 10), Paasay (389; 478), Rona (157; 176), Ronay
(6 ; 6), St Kilda (71 ; 77), Sanderay (7 ; 10), Scalpa
(421 ; 540), Sealpay (48 ; 37), Scarp (156 ; 213), Shona
(102; 118), Skye (17,330; 16,889), Soay (120; 102),
Taransay (68; 55), North Uist (3222; 3371), South
Uist (3669 ; 3825), Yallay (48 ; 29), Vatersay (23 ; 19),
"Wiay oflT Skye (5 ; 4), Wiay off South Uist (6 ; 5). In
Ross are Bernera (539 ; 596), Croulin (26 ; 9), Lewis
(22,939; 24,876), Pabay (0; 9), Shiant_(5; 6). The
uninhabited islands of any note are Ree in Argyll and
Ascrib in Inverness.

Westerly winds prevail on an average from August
till the beginning of March, and are generally accom-
panied by very heavy rains ; but during most of March,
and often also during October and November, a NE or
NNE wind prevails, and this, though intensely cold, is
generally dry and bracing. Northerly and southerly
winds are not very freqrient, and seldom last more than
two or three days. The mountains of Jura, Mull, and
Skye, attaining to an elevation of from 2000 to 3000
feet, intercept the damp winds blowing off the Atlantic,
and so draw down on the land in their vicinity large
quantities of moisture ; but they at the same time
modify the climate around them, and screen the lower
land in their neighbourhood from the violent winds
that sweep everywhere off the sea. Though the com-
paratively low islands of Tyree, Coll, Benbecula, North
Uist, and the low seaboards of Harris and Lewis have
abundance of rain, they are probably little, if at all,
damper than the western sea-board districts of the
mainland. Frost and snow seldom cause much incon-
venience on the large or high islands, and are almost
unknown on the small and low ones. Rain falls on an
average on 264 days in the year, and the amount of
rainfall is about 48 inches. The mean temperature for
November, December, January, and February is 39°,
for the rest of the year 49°. Owing to the comparative
warmth of the islands and the lowness and closeness to
the sea of the arable ground, and notwithstanding the
damp and their unsheltered position, grasses and corn
attain maturity at a very early period after tlieir first
start from the ground. In the southern isles sown hay
is cut down between the latter end of June and the
middle of July, and in the northern isles ten to fourteen
days later ; in all the islands barley is often reaped in
August, and crops of all sorts secured in September ; and
in Uist, Lewis, and Tyree, here has ripened and been cut
down within ten weeks of the time of sowing. In spite.-
too, of the same unfavourable conditions, longevity is
of as frequent occurrence as among an equal amount of
population in any other part of Europe, and many of
the old prevalent diseases are here, just as on the main-
land, losing tlieir epidemic and malignant character.

Soils and Agriculture. — In a region so extensive there
is, as might be expected, a great diversity of soils. It
has been said of the Outer Hebrides that ' nature has
wasted her capabilities in a climate to which she has
refused vegetation, nay even denied a soil ; that which
is not rock is sand, that which is not sand is bog,
that which is not bog is lake, that which is not

257

HEBRIDES

lake is sea,' but this is very much exaggerated; and
although the islands as a whole are by no means very
fertile,' there are yet many districts wliere the land is
fairly productive/and they are indeed more populous
and aggregately more productiye than the same extent
of many parts of the mainland Highlands, or eyen of
the mountainous parts of Northumberland, Cumberland,
and Westmoreland. Islay, for example, has 36 square
miles of a thin stratum of decomposed limestone, occa-
sionally intermixed with clay and gravel, several miles
of rich clay land, and some 'thousands of acres of good
loam. Gigha, with red clay and gravel, and inferior to
many of the islands in natural capabilities, afibrds an
excellent example of what might, by vigorous and judi-
cious management, be accomplished in many seemingly
inhospitable parts of the Highlands. Jura, though
seeming to a cursory glance to be mostly mere barren
mountain, yet contains some fertile patches of clayey
gravel and patches of stony loam, as well as many
hundred acres of improvable moss. Mull, though pre-
dominantly upland moor, has a considerable tract of
soil formed from disintegrated basalt, and producing
cood grassy sheep pasture. Lismore has abundance of
grass, and where well managed the calcareous soil yields
good results under tillage. Skye possesses all the
varieties of soil found in the Scottish Lowlands, except
pure sand, and, notwithstanding the prevalence of barren
mountains and marshy moor, there are patches of con-
siderable fertility. In one parish alone there are 4000
acres of as fine loam and loamy clay on a gravelly
bottom as are to be found an}'where in Scotland. The
Outer Hebrides, over most of the seaboard and in por-
tions of the interior, have a soil of disintegrated gneiss
or granite, which, when mixed with clay or shell sand,
or when manured with the sea-weed that lies plentifully
at hand, yields abimdant crops of oats and here. All
along the western side of this chain there is a good deal
of sand-drift, but the action of this may here be regarded
as beneficial. The tenant of the land is for the time
being injured, and the land rendered barren in places
where the sand rests too deep, yet the sand is shell-sand,
and where it does not lie too deep is of immense benefit
to the soil. In North and South Uist, in Barra, in
Coll, in Harris, in Colonsay, and in many of the other
islands as well, the sand is drifted into the interior,
where, at the marshy ground along the base of the
hills, it meets with the moisture it needs, and peat, on
which it acts as a manure. ' It brings on a coat of
verdure, where nothing grew before but heath ; whence
that which on the flat and arid shores is the cause of
small spots of barrenness, is, in its progress, the source
of extensive fertility. The springing of white clover is
one among the results which prove this good efi"ect, as
that is an invariable result of the application of cal-
careous matter to Highland pastures. The proprietors
have not hitherto been aware of the nature of this pro-
cess, of so much importance in the agriculture of these
islands. They have forgotten to note the difference
between their own lands and those which sand injures ;
judging by habit, and forgetting to observe or reason.'
About two-tliirds of tlie entire Hebrides may be reckoned
as moor or moss, and there is a considerable portion
bare rock or pure sand ; hut the moss is of great value
and importance, both as capable of improvement into
pasture or arable land and as providing the only fuel
used throughout the islands. It has been estimated
that of the whole area about 200,000 acres are arable
and meadow land ; about 2-3,000 are occupied by vil-
lages, farmhouses, gardens, and gentlemen's parks ; about
11,000 are occupied as glebes, churchyards, and school-
masters' crofts ; about 800,000 as hill pasture, papng
rent, and partially enclosed ; about 26,000 dug for peat
or occupied by roads, etc. ; about 30,000 is barren sand
and bare rock ; and about 700,000 is occupied by moor,
marsh, and undrained lochs.

The Hebrides were in the beginning of the present

century distributed into 49 estates, 10 of which yielded

from £50 to £500 of yearly rental, 22 from £500 to

dE3000, and 8 from £3000 to £18,000. Six of the largest

258

HEBRIDES

were in possession of noblemen. About one-fifth of all
the land is under strict entail, and about three-fifths
belong to absentees. The great estates are managed by
factors, who usually reside on them. In the actual
working of the soil four different classes are con-
cerned : first, proprietors, who keep their lands under
their own management ; second, tacksmen, who hold
land under ' tacks ' or leases, and with rents of over £50,
and sometimes amounting to several hundred pounds
a year ; third, tenants who hold lands of the proprietor
without leases, and whose rents are from £20 to £50
a year ; fourth, crofters holding land without lease either
of the proprietor or of the tacksman, and whose rents
never exceed £20 a year, and are generally very con-
siderably below that sum. This class may be taken to
include the cottars of some districts, who are sub-tenants
holding from year to j^ear. Some of the proprietors
who work their own lands have extensive estates, and
are keen and successful agriculturists. The tacksmen
used formerly to be connected with the proprietors by
clanship or blood, and formed a body of resident gentry ;
but after the rebellion of 1745, most of the chiefs and
other proprietors suddenly raised the rents, and deprived
the tacksmen of the power of sub-letting their lands.
The sudden rise of rents took the tenants by surprise,
and large numbers of them emigrated in disgust and
despair. The present tacksmen are simpty the larger
tenants, with security of holding, and it is much to be
regretted that similar security is not given to the smaller
tenants, as to the lack of it is due the utter absence of
any attempt at improvement. The crofters and cottars,
who form the great bulk of the population, are very
similar to the cottars of the mainland, and a consider-
able portion of their small rents is often paid in labour.
Generally with large families — whom they in many cases
prefer to have with them in a state of abject misery
rather than send them out to service, which they esteem
a great hardship — they would in most cases be very
much happier in the actual position of ordinary day-
labourers.

When the old tacksman system was broken up, about
the middle of last century, many of the farms held by
tacksmen seem to have been taken directly from the
proprietor by joint-tenants, who grazed their stock upon
the pasture in common, and tilled the arable land in
'run -rig,' that is, in alternate 'rigs' or ridges, distri-
buted annually. Since the commencement of this cen-
tury, the arable land has in most cases been divided
among the joint-tenants or crofters in separate portions,
the pasture remaining as formerly in common. The
first effect of this division into separate crofts was a
great increase of produce, so that districts Mhich had
formerly imported food now became self-supporting.
But evils followed which had not been foreseen. So
long as the farms were held in joint-tenancy there was
a barrier to their further sub-division which could rarely
be overcome. But when each joint-tenant received his
own separate croft, this restraint for the most part
ceased. The crofters who had lived in hamlets or clus-
ters of cottages now generally established themselves
separately on their crofts. ' Tlieir houses, erected by
themselves,' says Sir John il'Xcill, who was appointed
by Government to report on the district in 1850, in
consequence of the great distress in 1S46, ' are of stone
and earth, or clay. The only materials they purchase
are the doors, and, in most cases, the rafters of the roof
on which are laid thin turf, covered with thatch. The
crofter's furniture consists of some rude bedsteads, a
table, some stools, chests, and a few cooking utensils.
At one end of the house, often entering by the same
door, is the byre for his cattle ; at the other, the barn
for his crop. His fuel is the peat he cuts in the neigh-
bouring moss, of which an allotted portion is often
attached to each croft. His capital consists of his cattle,
his sheep, and perhaps one or more horses or ponies ;
of his crop that is to feed him till next harvest, pro-
vide seed and winter provender for his animals ; of
his furniture, his implements, the rafters of his house,
and, generally, a boat, or share of a boat, nets or other

HEBRIDES

fishing gear, with some barrels of salt-henings, or
bundles of dried cod or ling for winter use.' As origin-
ally portioned out the crofts appear to have been quite
sufficient to maintain the crofter's family, and yield the
landlord his yearly rent. But when kelp was largely
and profitably manufactured, when potatoes were exten-
sively and successfully cultivated, when the fishings
were good, and the price of cattle was high, the crofter
found that his croft was more than sufficient for his
wants ; and when a son or a daughter married, he
divided it with the young couple, who built themselves
another house upon the ground, sharing the produce,
and contributing to the rent. Thus many crofts which
are entered on the landlord's rent-roll as in the hands
of one man, are, in fact, occupied by two, three, or even
in some cases, four families. On some estates efforts
were made to prevent this sub-division, but without
much success. If the erection of a second house on the
croft were forbidden, the married son or daughter was
taken into the existing house ; and though the land
might not be formally divided, it was still required to
support one or more additional families. It appears
that attempts were made in some cases to put an end to
this practice, 'but it was found to involve so much
apparent cruelty and injustice, and it was so revolting
to the feelings of all concerned, that children should be
expelled from the houses of their parents, that the e\'il
■was submitted to and still continues to exist.' The
population thus progressively increasing received a still
farther stimulus from the kelp manufacture. This pur-
suit required the labour of a great number of people for
about six weeks or two months in each year ; and as it
Avas necessary to provide them with the means of living
during the whole year, small crofts were assigned to
man}^ persons in situations favourable for the manufac-
ture, which, though not alone able to maintain a family,
might, with the wages of the manufacture, suffice for
that end. "When a change in the fiscal regulations de-
stroyed this manufacture, the people engaged in it were
thrown out of employment, and had they not been
separated by habits and language from the majority of
the population of the kingdom, they would no doubt
have gradually dispersed and sought other occiipations.
But having little intercourse with other districts, which
were to them a foreign 'country, they clung to their
native soil after the manufacture in which they had been
engaged was abandoned. Their crofts were then insuffi-
cient to afford them subsistence. Emigration somewhat
retarded the increase of numbers, but the emigrants were
the more prosperous of the tenants and crofters, not the
persons who had difficulty in supporting themselves at
home. The proprietors, anxious to check the redandant
population, and to increase their rents so materially
reduced by the decay of the kel]) manufacture, let the
lauds vacated by the emigrants to tacksmen, who were
able, by their large capital and the new system of sheep-
farming, to pay higher rents than the crofters could
offer. These increased rents were at the same time col-
lected at less cost, with less trouble, and with more
certainty. The proprietors were thus led to take every
opportunity of converting lands held by crofters into
large farms for tacksmen, planting the displaced crofters
on fishing crofts and crofts on waste land, and thus the
crofters who had supplanted the first race of tacksmen
were in turn supplanted by a new race.

In the beginning of the present century many of the
landlords in the Hebrides devoted themselves vigorously
to the improvement of both land and people, and, in
general, with great success. The chief improver at an
early date, both as to extent and energy, was Campbell of
Islay, who so revolutionised the agricultural character
of that island between 1820 and 1840, that, from a con-
dition of being obliged to import grain to the value of
£1200 annually, it passed into a condition of being able
to supply a sufficiency of gi-ain for all the Hebrides and
the Western Highlands. Mr Clark, of Ulva, went to Bel-
gium in 1846, in order to study the system of|;e<z<e cul-
ture, so that he might introduce it on his estate in the
Hebrides, but he says — ' The result of my investigation

HEBRIDES

was to convince me that the Belgian system was alto-
gether unsuited for Ulva or any other part of the
Hebrides ;' and, indeed, though the croft system is in
most cases precisely a system of spade husbandry, the
results will always differ widely from those obtained on
the Continent with better soil and a finer climate. The
peasant proprietary which generally accompanies spade
husbandrj' seems, for the same reason, equally unsuit-
able, for Mr Walker, who, as one of the assistant-com-
missioners on the Koyal Commission on Agriculture,
instituted extensive inquiries into the state of the
Hebrides, and had ample opportunity of studying the
subject, gives, in a minute and painstaking report, pub-
lished in a blue-book in 1881, the following very decided
opinion : — ' Peasant proprietors on such islands would be
a failure ; a large and rich proprietary willing to spend
for the benefit of property and people is what is most
required, and will do most good. ' Pre-eminently such a
proprietor as Mr Walker seems to desiderate was the
late Sir James Matheson, the greatest benefactor of the
Hebrides in the present age, who, in 1844, pmxhased
the vast estate of Lewis from the representatives of the
last Earl of Seaforth. For 417,416 acres the stmi of
£190,000 was paid, and since then a svim of over
£400,000 has been expended in rebuilding a number of
houses, of which there are altogether about 3500 on the
estate, in making 170 miles of good road, in constntcting
roads and draining, etc. The heaviness of some items
of outlay may be imagined when it is mentioned that
all the wood, lime, and slate had to be imported spe-
cially, while £4000 was spent in relieving cases of dis-
tress during the famine in 1846 and 1847 ; and £10,069
in aiding families to emigrate in 1851, '52, '55, '62, '63,
during which years 2231 persons left, mostly for Canada.
The present proprietris of the estate is Lady Matheson.
When Sir James purchased Lewis in 1844, it was in a
very primitive condition, and, notwithstanding all his
eftbrts for its improvement, it is still far from occupying
the position it might. Were the crofters only enei'getic
much might be done by the proper trenching of the
gravelly or clay -gravel soils exposed by the cutting and
removal of peat for fuel. The clay-gravel is difficult
to drain, and heav}-, but the lighter parts would yield
good crops, while the mixture of decomposed rock soils
with moss makes land that yields excellent natural
grass. The ordinary crops of the Hebrides are oats
(mostly the black variety), here, rye (in a few of the
sandy districts), turnips, and potatoes. The latter hold
indeed a similar place in the Hebrides to what they do
in Ireland, and constitute four-fifths of the food of the
inhabitants, and so any failure in the potato crop is
always followed by severe distress, sometimes almost
universal, and, if accompanied by anj^ other failures,
leads to necessity for direct aid from without. This was
strikingly shown in 1846 and 1847, after the first out-
break of the potato disease ; and again in the present
winter (1882-83) distress has been exceptionally severe,
as not onlj' was the potato crop a failm'e in 1882, but
also the East Coast fishing, on which so many of the
crofters largely depend, while at the same time a violent
gale, in the autumn, utterly destroyed the crop just as
it was ready for being cut.

The agricidtural condition of the two groups of the
Inner Hebrides may be gathered from the condition of
Islay, Rum, and Skye, for which reference may be made
to these articles. In the Outer Hebrides there is
hardly any such thing as regular scientific cultivation,
as no rotation is observed except upon a few of the
larger farms, and, indeed, on some crofts where the
whole produce is necessary for the subsistence of man
and beast, no part of the arable land has been under
grass or allowed to rest for more than 100 years, while
in many cases the seaweed, which is almost the only
manure emploj-ed, is very exhausting to the soil.
AVhere rotation'is observed, the shift is either five, six,
or seven, as best suits the jiarticular case. In Lewis
there are 36 farms with a rental of £4878, lis. lOd.,
and of these 10 are altogether pasture, while in 14 a
few acres are cultivated for winter keep of stock, and ia

259

HEBRIDES

12 there is fairly good cultivation. There arc 2790
crofts, ^vith a total rental of £8104, 5s. 7cl., or nearly
£2, ISs. of rental for each, occupiers having also the right
of pasture in the moorland in the centre of the island,
•which enables them on an average to keep 4 cattle and
10 sheep, while there is on an average 1 horse or pony
for every 4 crofts. The 3'early produce of 2000 of the
best crofts is 8 bolls of meal and 4 tons of potatoes. In
the case of the others, the produce is less ; and a good
deal of meal has to be imported. The best arable land
rents at 15s. per acre, medium at 10s., and poor at 5s.
All these remarks apply also to Harris except that it is
rougher, and the patches of arable land are smaller and
more difficult to cultivate. In North Uist the state of
things is the same, but the soil is drier and yields best
returns in moderately wet seasons. On the sandy soil
rye is cultivated. The j-ield of grain is 2i to 2f C]uarters
per acre, potatoes 5 tons, and turnips 10 to 12 tons.
The rent of the best arable land is 10s. per acre
medium 5s., poor 2s. 6d. In Benbecula and South
Uist the state of matters is almost exactly the same, as
it is also in the islands still farther to the S. The
bere is not reaped in the ordinary way, but is plucked
up by the root and used for thatching the houses. The
thatch consists of two layers, and every spring the
upper layer is taken off and laid carefully aside, while
the under layer, which has become considerably de-
cayed, and has got very much impregnated with soot
from the peat smoke of the winter, is taken off, and
spread over the fields as potato manure. The upper
layer is then replaced on the roof, and in autumn re-
ceives a covering of fresh straw, and the process is re-
peated every year. The newer houses are fairly good,
but the older are very primitive structures, mostly
without chimneys or windows, though some of them
have a solitary pane of glass inserted in the thatch.
Tliey are low, rounded at the corners, and with round
roofs, wliich, in general appearance, bear a strong re-
semblance to a potato pit. The walls, which are seldom
more than 5 feet high, are constructed of two fences
of rough boulders packed in the centre with earth, and
in some cases 5 to 6 feet thick. People and cattle are
all stowed away together under one roof, and only in
some cases is there a partition between tlie part set
aside for the human beings and that which shelters
animals. There is only one entrance, and the floor of
the end belonging to the cattle is made lower, so that the
compost may collect during the whole of the winter, and
be all taken out at once in spring to be used as manure.
The thatch roof is held down by ropes of heather, cross-
ing one another, and secured against wind by large
stones tied to their ends. The floor is of hard clay, and
the fire is in the centre.

As might be expected from the estimated amount of
arable and grazing laud already given, the pasture lands
of the Hebrides are much more important than the
arable grounds, and comprehend by far the greater
portion of the islands. The high pastures yield herb-
age all the year round, while the low, though luxuriant
and rich during summer and autumn, are totally useless
in winter and spring. A large amount of very rich
pasture occurs in Sk}'e, Islay, Lismore, Tyree, the
Lists, and Lewis, and much of it with better manage-
ment ought to yield far better results than it does.
That in Xorth Uist is better adapted for cattle tlian
sheep, while the gi-azing of Barru is the best in the
Hebrides. The breed of cattle— the same as in the
Highlands— was originally the same in all the islands,
but now various kinds have been introduced. The
Islay and Colonsay cattle are much superior to those in
the other islands, and command a price from 50 to 100
per cent, higher. Attention is given to breeding, and
not to fattening. Very good cheese and butter are
produced, the excellent quality being due to the good-
ness of the milk. On farms in the'Stornoway district
the cattle are mostly Ayrshire crosses, but elsewliere
they are of the Highland breed, and inferior in quality.
About 1500 head of cattle annually leave the Lewis
district alone and in addition 200 are slaughtered in
260 °

HEBRIDES

Stornoway, or, in other words, about one in every eight
of the Lewis cattle is converted into money every year.
The animals in the possession of the farmers are much
superior to those of the crofters, and bring a higher
price in the market, the former selling at from £6 to
£10, and the latter at from £2, 10s. to £6, 10s. In
North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist, and the islands to
the S, the state of matters is the same, but the High-
land cattle of North Uist are the best in the Hebrides.
The cattle fairs at Stornoway and Loch Maddy are
events of the Hebridean year. The sheep are of a
number of difierent breeds. Down almost to the
beginning of the present century the only breed known
was the native or Norwegian sheep, the smallest in
Europe, thin and lank, with straight horns, white face
and legs, and a very short tail. It was probably in-
troduced at the time of the Scandinavian invasion.
Early in the century the black-faced breed was intro-
duced, and soon made its way, as it was three times
heavier and more valuable than the former, and was at
the same time equally hardy. About the middle of the
century the Cheviot lareed was introduced, and now the
principal breeds are these and the black-faced, though
crosses, half-bred and grey-faced, are also being intro-
duced. In the Outer Hebrides the cost to the tacksmen
for grazing Cheviot or cross is about 3s. 6d. a head,
and to the crofters for black-faced about Is. 6d. In
summer both cattle and sheep are herded in common,
the crofters paying the expense of watching in propor-
tion to the number of their sheep. Ponies are very
common, and those of Barra were at one time very
celebrated, but they have of late years fallen of!'. Such
horses as there are are very undersized even in Lewis,
where Sir James Matheson made great efforts for their
imi^rovement by the introduction at his own expense of
excellent stallions. Improvement, indeed, is needed,
not only in breeding, but in feeding and tending. One-
year-old ponies sell at from £3 to £5 ; older and larger
animals at from £10 to £15 ; and animals of tlie best
class at from £20 to £30. Pigs were formerly held in
great aversion, but are now reared in some districts in
considerable numbers.

Fisheries, etc. — The shores of the Hebrides and the
W coast of the adjacent mainland form an excellent
fishing ground, but the industry is not by any means
so largely developed as it might be, and this is due to
many causes, but in particular to the want of good
harbour accommodation. The crofters would, indeed,
be badly off were it not for the harvest of the sea, and
yet their lack of energ}' and their poverty prevent them
from taking full advantage of it, and allow the energy
and enterprise of the East Coast fishermen to carry off
the greater part of the spoil. In consec[uence of the
nature of the shores and the violence of the sea, fishing
is scarcely possible along the western coast of tlie Outer
Hebrides. The favourite stations are along the coasts of
Knock and Lochs in Lewis, and at Loch Boisdale and
Barra farther S. In the beginning of the present
century the herring fishing, though subject, as it
always is, to considerable fluctuations, was good ; but
between 1830 and 1840, it fell off to a large and
alarming extent, and caused during that time, and
particularly in 1836 and 1837, a very great amount of
misery and destitution. In 1840 the herring returned
in large shoals, but so sudden and unexpected was their
reappearance that the people, utterly unprepared, had
not salt enough to cure the lierrings they caught, and
could in that year realise little other advantage than a
temporary increase in their own immediate supplies of
food. From that time the fishing has been regular and
good. There are two seasons — in spring and in autumn.
The former is carried on by boats from all quarters, but
the latter is left to the home boats. ' A busy sight
indeed is Loch Boisdale or Stornoway in the herring
season. Smacks, open boats, skifts, wherries make the
narrow waters shady ; not a creek, however small, but
holds some boat in shelter. A fleet indeed ! — the
Lochleven boat from the East Coast with its three masts
and three huge lugsails ; the Newhaven boat with its

HEBRIDES

two lur^sails ; the Isle of JIaii "jigger ;" tlie beautiful
Guernsey runner, handsome as a racing 3'acht, and
powerful as a revenue-cutter, besides all the numberless
frj' of less noticeable vessels from the fat west country
smack, with its comfortable fittings, down to the
miserable Arran wherry. Swarms of sea-gulls float
everywhere, and the loch is so oily with the fish de-
posit that it requires a strong wind to ruffle its surface.
Everywhere on the shore and hill-sides, and on the
numberless islands rises the smoke of camps. Busy
swarms surround the curing-houses and the inn, while
the beach is strewn with fishermen lying at length, and
dreaming till work-time. In the afternoon the fleet
slowly begins to disappear, melting away out into the
ocean, not to re-emerge till long after the grey of the
next dawn. . . . Besides the regular fishermen and
people employed at the curing-stations, there are the
herring gutters — women of all ages, many of whom
follow singly the fortunes of the fishers from place to
place.' The East Coast boats bring over their own
women, and on their arrival invariably encamp on
shore, where the women keep house for the crew.
The Hebrides are included in five of the twenty-five
fishing districts into which Scotland is divided. Some
of these include also portions of the western coasts of
the mainland. The headquarters of the districts are
Stornoway, Loch Broom, Loch Carron and Skye,
Campbeltown, and Inveraray. The number of boats
employed at these at different dates, with the number of
men, the value of the whole property in boats, nets,
and lines, and the number of barrels of herrings salted,
and the number of cod, ling, or hake taken, is shown
in the following table : —

Year. | Boats.

Men and
boys.

Value of Barrels of No. of cod,
property, lierring;. etc. , taken.

1870 1 3S11
1874 1 3949
1881 1 3S19

11,751
11,934
11,760

£181,711 188,200
£176,7-.^2 122,321
£181,066 170,284

434,809
450,252
441,805

So plentiful among the Hebrides are the materials for
the manufacture of kelp, that for a long series of years
this was much more valuable than either agriculture or
fisheries. From the beginning of the manufacture down
to 1790, the price of kelp per ton was from £2 to £6 ;
but the subsequent great war with France having checked
the importation of barilla, the price rose to £15, and
ultimately to £20, per ton, and from 5000 to 6000 tons
were produced annuallj'. Till 1822 considerable duties
were levied on the articles — barilla, pot and pearl ash,
and black ash — that could compete with it in the
market ; but in that j^ear the duty on salt (which was,
along with sulphur, used in the manufacture of black
ash) was reduced from 15s. to 2s. a bushel. Shortly
after the duty on barilla was also reduced, and the
remaining duty on salt, as well as on alkali made from
salt, was entirely removed. This was in turn followed
by a large reduction of the duty on foreign sulphur and
on pot and pearl ash, and an entire removal of that on
ashes from Canada ; and the consequence was, that the
kelp manufacture w-as almost destroyed, and a period of
great misery and destitution followed. Many of the
landowners wei-e almost ruined, a« they lost at once
about five-sixths of their rental ; and the large popxda-
tion engaged in the manufacture suriered very severely.
The price is now about £6 per ton, but the industry is
almost abandoned, except in North Uist. Down to
1865, in Benbecula, on an average, about 500 tons were
made, and in South Uist about 650, yielding a profit to
the proprietor of about £1200 ; but the manufacture
there has now almost entirely ceased. The time for
making kelp is during the months of .June, July, August,
and September ; and that of the Hebrides is inferior to
the kelp of the Orkneys, and is only used in tlie manu-
facture of soap. Since the failure of the kelp manufac-
ture, the Hebrides may be said to have uo industries,
except at one or two places. Mr Campbell of Islay tried
to introduce the weaving of book muslin on his property,

HEBRIDES

by bringing some families of weavers from Glasgow, and
providing them with cottages and weaving a[ipliances,
in a locality where weaving was cheap ; but though the
attempt was well made and duly prolonged, it did not
succeed. The spinning of yarn formed at one time a
staple in Islay, and wliile it flourished, employed all
the women on the island, £10,000 worth of yarn being
exported in a year ; but it was unable to withstand the
competition of the Glasgow manufactories. In Islaj',
now, a good deal of whisky is made, and in Skye there
is a distillery at Talisker, and a small woollen manufac-
tory near Portree, wliile at Easdale and Balnahua there
are slate quarries of large extent, turning out about ten
millions of slates annually. There is a small chemical
work near Stornoway ; and in all the islands a good deal
of wool is carded," spun, and woven into plaiding,
blankets, and coarse fabrics.

Tlie people are a hardy, industrious, patient, and, in
the main, a contented race, except when external influ-
ence works on tlieir ignorance or their feeling of hard-
ships. Reforms in many waj's are much needed, but
have to be carried out with great caution, as the island
nature is very tenacious of old habits, however wrong.
The main sources of livelihood of the crofters are their
small patches of land, and the fishing in winter, spring,
and autumn at home, and in summer on the East Coast,
where they supply the boats engaged in the herring
fishing with 'hired hands.' The struggle for existence
is hard even when all these succeed ; when one or more
fails, much misery is the residt. The people have all a
sad, serious look about them, as if life were too serious for
laughter. 'There is no smile,' says Robert Buchanan,
' on their faces. Young and old drag their limbs, not as
a Lowlander drags his limbs, but lissomly, with a swift
serpentine motion. The men are strong and powerful,
with deep-set eyes and languid lips, and they never
excite themselves over their labour. The women are
meek and plain, full of a calm domestic trouble, and
they work harder than their lords.' The last clause
might indeed in many, many cases be read, that they
work hard while theirlords do nothing at all, and come
much nearer the truth ; and even Mr Buchanan himself,
with all his deep appreciation of what is best and
noblest in their character, and much as he dwells on
their love of home and family, their purity and their kind-
liness, is forced to admit the charge of indolence. ' The
people,' he says, 'are half-hearted— say an indolent
people. They do no justice to their scraps of land,
which, poor as they be, are still capable of great im-
provement ; but their excuse is, that they derive little
substantial benefit from improvements made where
there is only yearly tenure. They hunger often, even
when the fjords opposite their own doors are swarming
with cod and ling ; but it is to be taken into considera-
tion that only a few of them live on the sea-shore or
possess boats. They let the ardent east country fisher-
man carry off the finest hauls of herring. Their work
stops when their mouths are filled, and yet they are ill
content to be poor. All this, and more than this, is
truth, and sad truth.' The inhabitants of the outer
islands are very much isolated ; for though steamers
sail regularly from the Clyde and from Oban to all the
larger islands, the internal communication, except in
Lewis and Harris, is poor, and the arms of the lochs
difficult to cross. People, when they meet, talk, not
of the weather, but of the state of the fords. In out-
lying corners the people would fare but badly sometimes,
wercfit not for the visits of small trading vessels, barter-
ing goods of all kinds for fi.sh, or any other marketable
commodities the people have to disiiose of. The inner
islands are well provided with roads, and have much
more frequent communication. Skye has communica-
tion also by steamer with Strome, the western terminus
of the Dingwall and Skye section of the Highland rail-
way. . .

the only towms of any great importance m the
Hebrides are Stornoway in Lewis, Tobermory in Mull,
Bowmore in Islay, and Portree in Skye, while there are
about twenty villages with populations of over 300.

261

HEBRIDES

Most of tliese are in Lewis. Almost all the crofter
to-misliips are along the coast. Some of them are at
important points of communication, such as Bunessan
ir ilull, Kyle-Akin and Broadford in Skye, Tarbert in
Harris, and Loch Maddy in Korth Uist. Fairs for live
stock are held regularly in Islay, Jura, Mull, T3'ree,
Skye, South Uist, Benbecula, North Uist, and Lewis,
while dealers travel through all the districts. The
quoad civilia parishes of the Hebrides are : in Ross-shire
— Barvas, Lochs, Stornoway, and Uig ; in Inverness-
shire— Barra, Bracadale, Duirinish, Harris, Kilmuir,
North Uist, Portree, Sleat, Small Isles (Eigg), Snizort,
South Uist, and Strath ; in Argyll— the whole parishes
of Coll, Colonsay, Gigha, Jura, "Kilchoman, Kildalton,
Kilfinichen, Killarrow, Kilninian, Small Isles (Cauna,
Muck, Rum, and Sandy), Torosay, and Tyree, and por-
tions of the parishes of Ardchattan, Campbeltown, Kil-
brandon, Kilmartin, Kilmore, Lismore, Morvern, North
Knapdale, and Southend. There are also included the
quoad sacra parishes of Cross (in Barvas), Knock (in
Stornoway), Bernera (in Harris), Halin-in-Wateruish
(in Duirinish), Stenscholl (in Kilmuir and Snizort),
Trumsigarry (in North Uist), Aharacle (in Ardnamurchan
and Morvern), Duror (in Lismore), lona (in Kilfinichen),
Kinlochspelvie (in Torosay), Oa (in Kildalton), Portna-
liaven (in Kilchoman), Tobermory (in Kilninian), Ulva
(in Kilninian). There are also 34 Free churches, 2 U.P.
churches, a Congregational church, 4 Baptist churches,
3 Episcopal churches, and 5 Roman Catholic churches.
The Argyllshire section has a sheritf-substitute ^\'ith his
headquarters at Tobermory ; the Inverness-shire section
has a sheriff-substitute at Portree for Skye, and another
at Loch Maddy for Harris and the islands to the S ;
in the Ross-shire section there is a sheriff-substitute for
Le\vis, with his headquarters at Stornoway. Of the
larger islands, Lewis belongs to Lady ]\[atheson ; Harris
to the Countess Dowager of Dunmore and to Sir E.
Scott ; North Uist to Sir John W. C. Orde of Kilmory ;
Benbecula, South Uist, and Barra to Lady Gordon-Cath-
cai't of Cluny. Benbecula and South Uist were purchased
in 1S39 by the late Colonel Gordon of Cluny for £124, 229,
and Barra in 1840 for £49,500, and since then about
£6000 has been expended on it. The area of Lewis is
417,416 acres, and the rental £17,343, 13s. 7d., exclusive
of Stornoway ; Harris, 122,500 acres, rental £5979,
9s. Id. ; North Uist, 68,000 acres, rental £5000; Ben-
becula, 22,874 acres, rental £1800 ; South Uist, 82,154
acres, rental £4800; Barra, 24,916 acres, rental £1900.
Pop. of the whole of the islands, (1871) 81,100, (1881)
82,119.

History. — The Hebrides make their first ajipearance
in historical times as the Ebudae of Ptolemy. He
only knew five islands under that name, and all these
lay to the S of Ardnamurchan, and were probably Islay,
Jura, Mull, Scarba, and Lismore, while Skye is men-
tioned separately as Scetis. The inhabitants at first
were probably Picts, but by the beginning of the 7tli
century, while the districts N of a line drawn through
the centre of Mull belonged to the Northern Picts, those
to the S had fallen into the hands of the Dalriadic Scots.
It is from one of the chief Dalriadic tribes, the Cinel
Loam, that the Lome district takes its name. The
islands became known to the Scandinavian sea-rovers
about the end of the 8th century (a. d. 794), and suffered
severely from their attacks during the whole of the 9th
century. In 880 some petty Norwegian kings, who
resisted the celebrated Harald Harfager's power in the
Dorth, made permanent settlements in the islands of
the west, and thence piratically infested the coasts of
Norway. In 888 Harald retaliated, and according to
the Islands Landnamabok, subdued all the Sudreys — a
name given to the Western Islands in distinction to the
Orkneys, which were the Nordrcys or Northern islands
— so far west that no Norwegian king afterwards con-
quered more, except King Magnus Barefoot. He had
hardly returned home, however, when the petty kings
or vikings, both Scottish and Irish, ' cast themselves
into the islands, and made war and plundered far and
■wide, but in the following year they fell under a fresh
202

HEBRIDES

ruler. This was one of their own number, Ketill Flat-
nose, who had settled in the Sudreys, and who now
probably, however, with Harald's aid, made himself
their king. By the 10th century the islands had been
extensively colonised by the Norwegians, and very com-
pletely subdued to Norwegian rule, and to the Scandi-
navians they were a valuable possession, and ' eminently
fitted to serve as a stronghold for the Northern Yikings,
whose strength consisted almost entirely in their large
and well-constructed ships.' In 990 the Hebrides passed
by conquest from the Danes of Dublin into the posses-
sion of Sigurd, Earl of Orkney, and were governed by a
depiity appointed bj^ him. Ragnal Macgophra, who had
seized the supreme power, was driven out by Sigurd in
1004, and we find a native chief, Gilli (evidently, how-
ever, tributary to Sigurd), ruling shortly after. Sigurd
was killed in 1014 at the battle of Clontarf, and for a
while the Isles were free ; but they again, about 1034,
passed under the rule of his (Sigurd's) son, Thorfinn, in
whose hands they remained till his death. From 1064
to 1072 they were annexed to the Irish dominions of
Diarmid Macmaelnambo, and they next passed into the
possession of Setric and his son Fingal, kings of the
Isle of Man. Godred Crovan, a Norwegian, having
landed on the Isles as a fugitive in 1066, gradually drew
around him influence and power, so that between 1075
and 1080 he was able to dethrone Fingal and take pos-
session of the throne of Man. His son Lagnian was
placed over the Hebrides. In 1093, while Malcolm
Ceannmor was busy making preparations for liis fatal
expedition into England, Magnus Barefoot, who had
recently become King of Norway, revived the Nor-
wegian claims, and enforced them by a descent on
the islands with a large and powerful fleet. He
does not seem to have disturbed the rulers he found
in power, but merely to have caused them to become
his vassals, and so Godred Crovan remained ruler
till his death in Islay in 1095. Lagman his son went
on pilgrimage to Jerusalem, where lie died, and Mag-
nus appointed a new Norwegian ruler named Inge-
muiid, whose government proved, however, so oppres-
sive, that he was murdered in Lewis. To avenge his
death Magnus again passed to the islands with large
forces, and after he had deprived the Earls of Orkney of
power, and sent them prisoners to Norway, ' He went
with his whole army to the Sudreys, but when he came
there he commenced plundering immediately, burneJ
the inhabited places, killed the people, and pillaged
wherever he went. But the people of the country fled
to various places, some uj) to Scotland, or into the
fjords or sea-lochs, some southward to Satiri or Kintyre,
some submitted to King Magnus and received pardon. '
The animus against the original inhabitants of the
islands thus shown by Magnus would seem to point
to the murder of Ingemund as being merely part of a
general scheme to throw off the Norwegian yoke. When
Magnus returned to the Isles after a visit to the Isle of
Man, he entered into an agreement with the King of
Scots, ' by which all the islands to the west of Scotland,
between which and the mainland a helm-carrying ship
could pass, were ceded to him ; ' and as he wished to
include Kintyre in the number, he is rej)orted to have
had his galley drawn across the narrow neck of land
between East and West Loch Tarbert. The islands
were thus severed from all connection with Scotland — a
condition that lasted for more than 150 j^ears. On the
death of King Magnus in Ulster in 1104, the native
islanders, with the assistance of some Irish under
Donald MacTadg, appear again to have attempted to
throw off the NorAvegian yoke, but in 1113 Olave, the
son of Godred Crovan, who had taken refuge in Eng-
land, recovered possession of the now independent king-
dom of the Isles, and reigned till 1153 or 1154, when he
was murdered by his iKq)hews. Godred the Black,
Olave's son, succeeded him, but so alienated his sub-
jects by his arrogance, that Somerled, the powerful and
ambitious thane of Argyll, who had married Ragahildis,
the daugliter of Olave, was encouraged to try to gain
the throne for his infant son Dougall. Hccairicd the

HEBRIDES

child all through the islands, and compelled the inhabi-
tants to give hostages to him as their true king. "When
Godred heard of this proceeding he sailed against the
rebels mth a fleet of eighty galleys, but was so gallantly
opposed, that by way of compromise he ceded to the
sons of Somerled the Hebrides S of Ardnamurchan, and
thus in 1156 the kingdom of the Isles was divided into
two portions, and rapidly approached its ruin. In 1158
Somerled, acting nominally for his sons, invaded and
devastated the Isle of Man, drove Godred to seek a
refuge in Norway, and apparently took possession of all
the Isles ; while in 1164, becoming still more ambitions,
he menaced all Scotland, landed a powerful force on the
Clj'de near Renfrew, and there perished either in battle
with Malcolm lY. , or by assassination in his tent. The
northern isles now returned, with the Isle of Man, to
Godi-ed ; Islay was allotted to Ronald, a son of Somer-
led ; and all the other isles were inherited bj' Dougall,
in whose name they and the whole Hebrides had been
seized by Somerled. All these chieftains, and some of
their successors, were contemporaneously known as
Kings of the Isles, and were subordinate to the King of
Xorway. Ronald was the ancestor of the Lords of the
Isles or Macronalds, and Dougall of the Lords of Lome
or Macdougalls, with their seat at Dunstaffnage. The
Scots were jealous of a foreign power so near their
coasts, and Alexander II. sent ambassadors to King
Haco, ' begging him to give up those lands in the
Hebrides which King Magnus Barefoot had unjustly
taken from King Malcolm.' To this Haco answered
that the matter had been settled, and that besides the
King of Scotland had not formerly had power in the
Hebrides. Alexander next offered to buy the islands,
and when this too was refused he collected an army
and invaded them. "While Alexander was in Kerrera
he had a dream in which St. Olaf, St. Magnus, and St.
Columba appeared, and bade him return, ' but the King
would not, and a little after he feU sick and died.' His
successor, Alexander III., 'a meike prince,' did not
give the matter up, for in 1262 messengers came to
Haco to tell him that the King of Scots would surely
win the Hebrides ; and complaining also of ver}' barbar-
ous cruelties jjractised by the Earl of Ross and other
Scots. Haco ' made ready swiftly for war, ' and got a
large army together, and himself set sail at the head of
his fleet in a ' great vessel that was built all of oak, and
had twenty banks of oars, and was decked with heads
and necks of dragons beautifully overlaid with gold.'
After visiting Orkuej' he sailed to Lewis, and then to
Skye, where Magnus, King of ilan, met him, and then
on to Kerrera, where he was met by King Dougall and
the other Hebrideans. The other King of the Isles,
John, would not follow Haco, as he held more land of
the King of Scotland than of the King of Norway. The
expedition ended in the battle of Largs and the defeat
of the Norwegians, and Alexander followed this up with
such vigour, that in 1265 he obtained from the suc-
cessor of Haco a cession of all the Isles. Islay, and the
islands adjacent to it, continued in the possession of the
descendants of Ronald, and Skye and Lewis were con-
ferred on the Earl of Ross, all in vassalage to the
Scottish monarch. In the wars of the succession, the
houses of Islay and the North Isles gave hearty support
to Robert Bruce till 1325, when Roderick Macalan of
the North Isles intrigued against the king, and was
stripped of his possessions ; while about the same date
An,gns Oig of Islay received accessions to his territories,
and became the most powerful vassal of the Cro\\-n in
the Hebrides. John, the successor of Angus, taking a
different course, joined the standard of Edward Baliol,
and when that prince was in possession of power, re-
3eived from him the islands of Skye and Lewis. After
Baliol's fall, David II. allowed John to retain possession
of Islay, Gigha, Jura, Scarba, Colousay, Mull, Coll,
Tyree, and Lewis ; and granted to Ronald, son of
Roderick Macalan, List, Barra, Eigg, and Rum.
Ronald died in 1346 without heirs, and Amie his sister,
wife of John, became his heir, and John, consolidating
his possessions with his own, assumed the title of Lord

HEBRIDES

of the Isles. In revenge for some fancied slight of the
government he rebelled, but was subdued, and in 1369
reconciled to King David. Having divorced his first
wife, he married Margaret, daughter of Robert, high
steward of Scotland ; and in 1370, when Robert suc-
ceeded to the throne, altered the destination of the
lordship of the Isles so as to make it descend to his oft"-
spring by his second wife, the gi-andchildren of the
king. John died in 1380, and was succeeded as Lord
of the Isles by Donald, his eldest son by the second
marriage. He married Mary Leslie, who afterwards
became Countess of Ross, and was thus involved in the
well-known contest with the Regent Albany, which
resulted in the battle of Harlaw. He had a great repu-
tation in the Hebrides for many good qualities. He
died in 1420 in Islay, and was pompously buried beside
his father at lona.

Alexander, the third Lord of the Isles, was formally
declared by James I. to be undoubted Earl of Ross, and
in 1425 he was one of the jury which sat in judgment
on Albany and his sons, as well as the old Earl of
Lennox. Having become embroiled with his kinsmen,
the descendants of the first Lord of the Isles by his
first marriage, and having shared in those conflicts
which disturbed the Hebrides so much during the early
part of the 15th century, he was, in 1427, summoned
to Inverness with other Highland and Island chieftains,
and was arrested and imprisoned. So much did this
irritate him, that after regaining his freedom he, in
1429, made a levy throughout the Isles and Ross, and
at the head of 10,000 men devastated the Crown lands
in the vicinity of Inverness, and burned the town itself.
In his retreat he was overtaken by the King and the
royal forces in Lochaber, and was so hard pressed that
he resolved to cast himself on the royal clemency ; and
on the eve of a solemn festival, clothed in the garb of
poverty and Avretchedness, he rushed into the King's
presence amid his assembled Court at Holyrood, and,
surrendering his sword, abjectly sued for pardon. He
was imprisoned for two years at Tantallon, and after
his release he conducted himself peaceably, and even
rose into favour. During the minority of James II. he
held the responsible and honourable office of Justiciary
of Scotland N of the Forth. In 1445 he returned to
his e\i.l ways, and joined in a treasonable league with
the Earls of Douglas and Crawford against the infant
King, but before the plot had faMy developed he died
at Dingwall in 1449.

John, the fourth Lord of the Isles and the third Earl
of Ross, having joined the Douglas cause, made a foray
on the mainland, and did a considerable amount of
mischief, but he very shortly after made his submission,
and was received into favour, for in 1457 he filled the
very important and responsible ofllce of one of the
AVardens of the Marches, and in 1460, previous to the
siege of Roxburgh Castle, he oflered, at the head of
3000 armed vassals, to march in the van of the royal
army, so as to bear the first bnint of an expected Eng-
lish invasion ; and his loyalty was so trusted that he
was ordered to remain as a sort of bodyguard near the
King's person. On the accession of James III., how-
ever, he became again troublesome, and after sending
deputies to England to ofler his assistance in case of an
invasion, he poured an army into the northern counties
of Scotland, and assumed a regal style. It was not till
1475 that he was denounced as a rebel, and summoned
to appear before parliament at Edinburgh. He did not
appear, and incurred sentence of forfeiture ; but when
a large force was gathered to enforce the sentence, he
came to Edinburgh and threw himself on the King's
mercy. "With gi-eat moderation on the part of the
King, he was restored to his forfeited possessions, and,
making a voluntary surrender to the Crown of the
Earldom of Ross and some other possessions, he was
created a baron and a peer of parliament, with the title
of Lord of the Isles. He could not, however, keep his
rebellious family in order, and in 1493 he was deprived
of his title and estate, and, after being for some time a
pensioner on the King's household, he sought a retreat

263

HEBRIDES

in Paisley Abbey, which he and his ancestors had
liberally endowed, and there died the last of the Lords
of the Isles.

The Lordship of the Isles being thus legally extinct,
James IV. seems to have resolved on attempting to
prevent the ascendancy of any one family by distri-
buting the power and the territories among a number
of the minor chiefs, and in 1496 an effort was made to
extend the dominion of the law by making every chief-
tain in the Isles responsible for the due execution of
legal writs upon any of his clan, on pain of becoming
personally subject to the penalty exigible from the
offender. The King, in 1499, finding all his efforts to
produce order unavailing, suddenly changed his policy,
revoked all the charters given to the chiefs, and com-
missioned Archibald, Earl of Argyll, and others, to let
on short leases all the lands of the lordship as they
stood at the date of forfeiture. Donald Dubh, who was
generally regarded as the representative of the last Lord
of the Isles, and who had been kept in prison to pre-
vent him from agitating his claims, escaped in 1 503, and,
finding the district in a disturbed condition, in conse-
quence of the roj-al measures, had but little difficulty in
raising an armed force, which he led to the mainland.
There he laid the whole of Badenoch waste, and the
insurrection assumed such a formidable character that
two years were rerpured for the vindication of the King's
authority. In 1504 the islanders were expelled from
the mainland, and in the following year the King per-
sonally led his forces against the islands in the S,
while Huntly attacked them on the N, and the rebel-
lion was quelled. Torquil Macleod of Lewis and some
other chiefs still holding out in despair, a third expedi-
tion was undertaken in 1506, and led to the capture of
the castle of Stornoway, and Donald Dubh was again
made prisoner, and shut up in Edinburgh Castle. Jus-
ticiaries were appointed for the North Isles and South
Isles respectively— the courts of the former being held
at Inverness or Dingwall, and those of the latter at
Tarbert or Lochkilkerran ; attempts were made to dis-
seminate a knowledge of the laws, and the royal authority
became so established that the King, up to his death in
1513, was popular throughout the islands. In the con-
fusion that followed the battle of Flodden, Sir Donald
of Lochalsh seized the royal strengths in the islands,
made a devastating irruption upon luverness-shire, and
proclaimed himself Lord of the Isles. In 1515 he made
his submission to the Regent, and though he attempted
in 1517 to bring about another rising, this proved a
failure. There was another outbreak in 1528, caused
by the withdrawal of many of the grants of Crown
lands, and in 1539 Donald Gorme of Sleat made a deter-
mined effort to place the Lordship of the Isles and the
Earldom of Ross on their old independent footing. His
death was at once followed by the failure of the insur-
rection, and the matter led to the voyage of James V.
round the Isles in 1540. The King's measures were
vigorous and eflcctive ; but after his death in 1542
Donald Dubh escaped, and, receiving support from all
the Islesmen except the JMacdonalds of Islay, again
dangerously disturbed the peace of the realm. He was
encouraged by the fickle dealing of Albany, and in 1545
swore allegiance to England. Donald, however, died
that year, and the chief's of the southern islands then
elected James Macdonald of Islay to succeed him. The
Macleods of Lewis and Harris, the ]\Iacneils of Barra,
the Mackinnons, and the ilacquai'ries, however, held
alt)of, and obtained a reconciliation with the Regent ;
while in the following year the island chiefs generally
were amnestied, and returned to their allegiance. James
Macdonald then dropped the assumed title of Lord of
the Isles, and he seems to have been the last person
who even usurpingly bore it, or on wliose behalf a
revival of it was attempted. The subsequent history of
the Hebrides is that of the mainland.

The Hebrides belonged to various clans. In the
Outer Hebrides, Lewis was in the possession of the Mac-
leods of Lewis ; while Harris belonged to the i\Iacleods of
Harris ; North Uist, Beubecula, and South Uist to the
264

HELENSBURGH

Macdonalds of Clan Donald ; and Barra to the IMacneils.
In the Inner Hebrides, Skye and the adjacent islands
were divided among the Macleods, Macdonalds, and
Mackinnons ; the Small Isles were held by tlie Mac-
donalds ; Tyree, Coll, and Mull by the Macleans ; Ulva
by the Macquarries ; Colonsay by Clan Duffie or the
Macfies ; Islay and the S end of Jura as far as Loch
Tarbert by the southern branch of the Macdonalds ; the
N end of Jura and the adjacent islands as far as Luing
by the Macleans ; Lismore by the Stewarts of Appin ;
and Kerrera by the Macdougals.

See Martin's DcscrijHion of the Western Islands; Pen-
nant's Totir; Johnson's Jc)H?'?ic?/ to the Western Islands
of Scotland ; Boswell's Tour to the Hebrides; Gregory's
History of the Western Highlands and Isles of Scotland;
Macculloch's Description of the Western Islands of Scot-
land (1819) ; Buchanan's Land of Lome (1871), and 2d
edition under the title of The Hchrid Isles (1883) ;
Chambers s Journal for 1876 ; Mr Walker's report in the
Meport of the Royal Commission on Af/ricuUm-c (ISSl) ;
Alex. Mackenzie's History of the Macdonalds and Lords
of the Isles (Inverness, 1881) ; and All the Year Hound
for April 1883.

Heck, a village in Lochmaben parish, Dumfriesshire,
2§ miles SSE of Lochmaben town, and 3^ WSW of
Lockerbie. One of the villages called the Four Towns,
it stands on a rising-ground, the Hill of Heck ; and
sometimes, during a freshet of the river Annan, is com-
pletely begirt with water, so as to look like an island in
a lake, and to be approachable only by means of a boat.
It got its name, signifying ' a rack for feeding cattle,'
from its being made, in times of freshets, a retreat of
cattle driven from their ordinary pasture on the haugh
to be fed from racks on its rising-ground. — Ord. Sur.,
sh. 10, 1864.

Hecla. See Uist, South.

Heiton, a village in Roxburgh parish, Roxburghshire,
2i miles SSW of Kelso, under which it has a post office.

Helensburgh, a town and quoad sacra parish within
the parish of Row, Dumbartonshire, is picturesquely
situated on the shore of the Firth of Clyde, near the
entrance to the GareLoch, and directly opposite Greenock,
which is 4 miles distant. The town lies 8 miles by rail
NW of Dumbarton, and 23 WNW of Glasgow. It is
the terminus of the Glasgow and Helensburgh branch
of the North British railway ; and it has direct com-
munication with Edinburgh and other districts via Cow-
lairs Junction. By water it has steam communication
with Glasgow, Greenock, and all parts of the Clyde ; and
in summer it is the starting-point for some of the best-
known tourist and excursion steamer-routes. Helens-
burgh is built partly on a low belt of flat ground con-
tiguous to the beach, and partly on the gentle slope of
a low range of hills that rises immediately behind. The
town, whose outskirts extend into Cardross parish
towards the E, stretches along the coast for about 1^
mile, and it has an average breadth of 6 furlongs. For
the most part it is carefully laid out on the rectangular
plan, the longer streets running parallel to each other,
with the shorter streets cutting them at right angles.
Each of the rectangles thus formed comprises about 2
acres, never occupied by more than four houses, except
in the two chief streets near the sea. A terraced street,
extending along the coast, and buttressed for a part of
its length by a sea-wall, is, with the thoroughfares im-
mediate!}' adjoining, chiefly occupied by shops and tho
dwellings of the poorer classes ; but where it begins to
leave the town proper, it is flanked by a number of
handsome and pretentious villas, standing each within
its own grounds. The more inland thoroughfares, and
especially those on the slope, are spacious and well-kept j
many have broad and carefully-trimmed ribands of turf
betwixt the side-walks and the carriage-way ; and
several are planted, boulevard-fashion, with small trees.
The houses that line these streets are chiefly villas and
neat cottages ; and as each is separated from the quiet
thoroughfare by a garden or shrubbery, the whole at-
mosphere of this retired town is delightfully sequestered
and rural. The houses in most cases are the property

HELENSBURGH

of retired merchants and others who are well-to-do ;
many are the country quarters of families whose winter
residence is in Glasgow. As is to be expected, the
private buildings are neat and pretty rather than hand-
some ; and the public buildings are not numerous. In
Aug. 1878 was laid the foundation-stone of new muni-
cipal buildings. They are built in the Scottish Baronial
style at a cost of £6000, and have a frontage of 50| feet
to Princes Street and of 80 feet to Sinclair Street, and
contain a small hall. The present public hall in King
Street, with a neat Gothic front, was erected in 1845 as
a U.P. church ; but since the erection of the new U. P.
church it has been let for meetings, concerts, etc. It
holds about 450. At the E end of the same street
stands the new hospital, erected in the cottage style at
a cost of £3000 from a bequest left by Miss Anne
Alexander, and partly supported also by funds from the
municipal authority under the Public Health Act. On
the esplanade a momiment was raised to Henry Bell in
1872, at a cost of nearly £900. It consists of an obelisk,
rising 25 feet from a base 3 feet square, and claiming to be
the largest single block of red Aberdeen granite erected
in Scotland. The total height of base and column is 34
feet ; and it bears the following inscription : — ' Erected
in 1872 to the memory of Henry Bell, the first in Great
Britain who was successful in practically applying steam-
power for the purposes of navigation. Born in the
countv of Linlithgow in 1766. Died at Helensburgh in
1831.'

The quoad sacra parish church, erected in 1847 near
the beach at the E end of the esplanade, is a large oblong
building with a plain square tower and little pretensions
to beauty. It contains 800 sittings. The AVest Estab-
lished church ranks as a chapel of ease, and contains
about 800 sittings. The foundation-stone of this hand-
some Gothic edifice was laid on 1 Feb. 1877, and the
total cost was about £6500. It superseded an iron
church built in 1868 for £600. The West Free church,
a large ornamental Gothic building with tower and spire,
was erected in 1852 on the site of a former Original
Secession church. The E or Park Free church, also a
large Gothic edifice with tower and spire, was built in
1862-63 near the public playground. The U.P. church
occupies a prominent site on the rising-ground, and was
built in the same style, with tower and spire, in 1861,
at a cost of upwards of £5000. The Congi'egational
chapel was rebuilt in 1881 in James's Street at a cost of
over £3000 ; and a new and larger one is meditated on
the same site. The old square building of this body,
known as the Tabernacle, built in 1802, was the first
place of worship in the burgh. The Episcopalians of
Helensburgh built the Cliurch of the Holy Trinity in
1842, a schoolhouse in 1851, and a parsonage in 1857 ;
but in 1866 the first was pulled down, and on its site
rose the Church of St Michael and All Angels, a hand-
some Early French edifice, consecrated in May 1868. A
Roman Catholic mission was founded in Helensburgh in
1865, with a place of worship to hold 300. In 1879-81
a new church, dedicated to St Joseph, was built of
white and red Duinbarton stone in Gothic style, witli
400 sittings. In 1878 a plain mission-hall was erected
in West King Street for religious and educational pur-
poses, es[iecially in connection with the Helensburgh
Working Boys' and Girls' Pieligious Society.

The following are the schools under the burgh school-
board, with their respective accommodations, average
attendances, and government grants for 1881 : — Helens-
burgh public school (450, 226, £196, 18s. 8d.); Grant
Street public school (319, 265, £254, 4s. lid.); Roman
Catholic (237, 183, £128, 3s.); and Episcopalian (91,
68, £59, 14s.). Besides these there are various private
schools, boarding and otherwise, for boys and girls.

Gas was introduced into the burgh about 1846, and
is managed by a gas company. A plentiful supply of
water is obtained horn a reservoir, opened in 1868, on
Mains Hill above the town, and by means of a pipe from
Glenfruin, laid in 1872. Among the associations of the
town may be mentioned a cemetery company, with a
beautifully situated extramural cemetery, agricultural
54

HELENSBURGH

and horticultural societies, bowling, cricket, curling,
and skating clubs, a reading-room and library, and a
public library. In January 1883 the Public Libraries
Act was rejected at a public meeting of ratepayers.
Several acres in the E end of the burgh are enclosed as
a public playground, for cricket, c^uoits, etc. ; and there
is a safety skating pond, of about 4 acres, on the Luss
road, to the N ; and fine bowling-greens. In 1878 a
(juantity of ground, enclosed and laid out as a park,
situated at Cairndhu Point in Row parish, was presented
to the burgh through the generosity of a few of the
citizens. This is known as Cairndhu Park. Helens-
burgh has a post ofiice under Glasgow, and branches of
the Bank of Scotland, the Union, and Clydesdale Banks.
The offices of all these banks are fine buildings ; that of
the first is in the Scottish Baronial style, and cost £3000.
Seventeen assurance companies are represented by agents
or offices in the burgh. There are three principal hotels ;
one of them, the Queen's, formerly known as the Baths,
was the residence of Henry Bell. The Helensburgh
Neivs, a Conservative organ established in 1876, is pub-
lished on Thursdays ; the Helensburgh and Gareloch
Times and Property Circular, a Liberal paper begun in
1879, appears every Wednesday.

Although it was one of the original inducements to
settle at Helensburgh, that ' bonnet-makers, stocking,
linen, and woollen weavers ' would ' meet with proper
encouragement,' the burgh never attained any com-
merciarimportance ; and it has no productive industry
beyond what is required to meet its own wants, and
those of the summer visitors who annually swell the
population. Herring and deep sea fishing occupy some
of the inhabitants. Since the opening of the railway to
Glasgow in 1857, the mild climate of the district has
combined with the convenience of access to make it a
favourite summer resort ; though of late years the
popularity of other watering-places has perhaps dimin-
ished that of Helensburgh to some extent. Notwith-
standing various proposals, Helensburgh never had a
harbour ; and the completion of the railway superseded
the necessity of one. The quay, a rough pile built in
1817, used frequently to be submerged ; but in 1861 it
was greatly enlarged and improved. In 1881 a fine new
pier was built at Craigendoran, ^ mile to the E, by the
North British Railway Company ; but it is situated
wholly in Cardross parish, and is exclusively in the
hands of the company.

In January 1776 the lands of Malig or Milrigs were
first advertised for feuing by Sir James Colquhoun, the
superior, who had purchased them from Sir John Shaw
of Greenock. Feuars came in gradually, and for some
years the slowly growing community was known simply
as New Town or Muleig ; but eventually it received the
name of Helensburgh, after the superior's wife, daughter
of Lord Strathnaver. In 1802 it was erected into a free
burgh of barony, under a provost, 2 bailies, and 4 coun-
cillors ; with a weekly market and 4 annual fairs. The
insignificance of the last is indicated by the fact that
in 1821 the fair customs were let for five shillings.
The introduction of steam navigation lent an impetus to
the growth of the burgh. Henry Bell (1767-1830)
removed in 1807 to Helensburgh, where, while his
wife kept the principal inn, 'The Baths,' he occupied
himself with a series of mechanical experiments, whose
final result was the launch of the Comet (Jan. 12, 1812),
the first steamer floated in the eastern hemisphere. Henry
Bell was provost of the burgh from 1807 to 1809. From
1846 till 1875 the town was governed under a police act
obtained in the former year ; while at the latter date
the General Police and Improvement Act was adopted.
The municipal authority now consists of a provost, 2
bailies, and 9 commissioners. The police force consists
of 9 men, including a superintendent, with a salary of
£160. No fairs of any sort are held now.

The quoad sacra parish was formed in 1862, and is
coterminous with the burgh ; on the E it is bounded by
Cardross parish, on the S by the Firth of Clyde, on the
W by Ardencaple parish, and on the N it extends to
the N boundaries of the farms of Kirkmichael, Stuck,

265

HELLMUIR LOCH

Malig, Glenan, Easterton, and "Woodend. It is in-
cluded in the presbytery of Dumbarton and the synod
of Glasgow and Ayr. The municipal constituency num-
bered 1580 in 1883, when the valuation of the burgh
amounted to £57,595. Pop. (1851) 2841, (1861) 4163,
(1871) 5975, (1881) 7693, of whom 4411 were females,
and 235 were Gaelic-speaking. Houses (1881) in-
habited 1581, vacant 211, building 39.— Ord, Sur.,
sh. 30, 1866.

Hellmuir Loch. See Kiukhope.

Hell's Glen, a rugged, solitary glen in Lochgoil-
head parish, Argyllshire. Deep and narrow, it com-
mences at a 'col' (719 feet), 3| miles E by N of
Inveraray ferry on Loch Fyne, and thence descends 2^
miles south-eastward to a point (194 feet) 2f miles
NNW of Lochgoilhead village. — Orel. Sur., sh. 37,
1876.

Helmsdale, a coast village in Kildonan parish, East
Sutherland, with a station on the Sutherland and Caith-
ness railway (1871-74), 46 miles SSW of Georgemas
Junction, 82| NNE of Dingwall, and lOlJ NNE of
Inverness. It stands at the mouth of the river Helms-
dale, which here is crossed by a handsome two-arch
bridge of 1811, and by which it is divided into Helms-
dale and East Helmsdale on the left, and AVest Helms-
dale, Marrel, and Gartymore on the right bank. A
ruined castle, on the right bank, IJ furlong below the
bridge, was built as a hunting-seat by the seventh Coun-
tess of Sutherland in 1488, and is noted as the scene, in
July 1567, of the murder of the eleventh Earl of Suther-
land and his countess. The earl's aunt, Isobel, poisoned
them both at supper, and would also have poisoned their
son ; but the cuj) that she mixed for him was drunk by
her own son, who was next heir to the earldom. He died
within two days, as within five did the earl and countess
at Dunrobin Castle ; and the wretched mother com-
mitted suicide at Edinburgh on the day appointed for
her execution. The instigator of this foul tragedy was
George, fourth Earl of Caithness. The village, dating
from 1818, is neat and regular, and has a post-office,
with mone}'' order, savings' bank, and telegraph depart-
ments, a branch bank of the British Linen Co., an inn,
a good natural harbour with a pier and breastwork of
1818, 29 boats and 50 fisher men and boys, Kildonan
parish church (1841), a Free church, and two public
schools. Helmsdale is head of the fishery district ex-
tending from Embo to Dunbeath, in which in 1882 the
number of boats was 215, of fishermen 772, of fish-curers
30, and of coopers 56, whilst the value of boats was
£7459, of nets £13,140, and of lines £1135. The fol-
lowing is the number — of barrels of herrings cured or
salted in this district (1867) 45,302, (1874) 12,196,
(1879) 22,656, (1881) 20,485 ; of cod, ling, and hake
taken (1867) 21,363, (1873) 45,048, (1874) 15,667, (1878)
18,282, (1881) 6281. Pop. (1841) 526, (1861) 1234, (1871)
1511, (1881) 1334, of whom 675 were in Helmsdale and
East Helmsdale.— Orrf. Sur., sh. 103, 1878.

Helmsdale River. See Kildoxan.

Helvels or Halivails. See Duikinish.

Hempriggs, an old mansion in Wick parish, Caith-
ness, near the coast, 2 miles S by W of Wick town. It
belongs to the same proprietor as Ackergill Tower.
Hempriggs village is | mile nearer the town ; and J
mile to the W lies Hempriggs Loch {6^ x 6 furl. ; 156
feet) ; whilst Hempriggs Stacks, in the sea near the
beach, are lofty insulated rocks, — the chief one per-
forated with a natural arch, and all of them
thronged by myriads of sea-fowl. — Orel. Sur., sh. 116,
187S.

Henderland, a farm in the Megget section of Lyne
and Megget parish, S Peeblesshire, on the left bank of
Megget water, 5 furlongs W of St Mary's Loch, and 18
miles WSW of Selkirk. A spot here, called the Chapel
Knowe, which some years ago was enclosed and planted,
contains a grave-slab, sculptured with a sword and other
emblems, and bearing inscription ' Hero lyis Perys of
Cokburne and hys wyfe Mariory. ' Tliis was the famous
Border freebooter, Piers Cockburn of Henderland, whose
ruined stronghold stands hard by, and whose execution
266

HERIOT

at Edinburgh by James V. in 1529 forms the theme of
that exquisite ballad The Border Widoiv's Lament —

' I sew'd his sheet, making my mane ;
I watch'd the corpse, myself alane ;
I watch'd his body night and day ;
No living creature came that way.

'I took his body on my back.
And whiles I gaed, and whiles I sat ;
I digg'd a grave, and laid him in.
And happ'd him wi' the sod sae green.

•Nae living man I'll love again,
Since now my lovely knight is slain ;
Wi' ae lock o' his yellow hair
I'll chain my heart for evermair.'

Hendersyde Park, a mansion in Ednara parish, Rox-
burghshire, 1 mile NE of Kelso. It is the seat of Sir
George Richard Waldie-Griffith, second Bart, since
1858 (b. 1820; sue. 1878).

Henlawshiel. See Kirkton, Roxburghshire.

Henwood, an ancient forest in Oxnam parish, Rox-
burghshire, around Oxnam Water, 5 miles SE of Jed-
burgh. It abounds in natural fastnesses ; presented for
ages such depths and intricacies of wooded ravine as
rendered it almost impervious ; was often used, in the
times of the Border raids and feuds, as a place of rendez-
vous or of refuge ; and gave occasion for the war-cry ' A
Henwoody ! ' to raise and lead a Border onset.

Herbertshire. See Denny and Dunipace.

Herdmandston, an estate, with a mansion, in Salton
parish, Haddingtonshire, on the right bank of the Tyne, 4
miles SW of Haddington. Modernised and enlarged,
the house is partly of high antiquity, and down to the
close of last centiiry showed vestiges of battlements,
turrets, and a fosse. It was long the residence of the
Hon. Adam Gillies (1787-1842), a Senator of the Col-
lege of Justice. In the pai'k, close by, are remains of a
chapel, erected by John de St Clair in the 13th century,
and still used as the family burying vault. Henry St
Clair, the founder of the line, obtained a charter of
the estate from Richard de Morville in 1162. His
descendant, Charles St Clair, in 1782 established his
claim to the barony of Sinclair, created in 1489 and
dormant since 1762 ; and his grandson, Charles William
St Clair, fourteenth Baron Sinclair (b. 1831 ; sue. 1880),
holds 4346 acres, valued at £5747 per annum, viz., 545
acres in Haddingtonshire (£1149), 1550 in Berwickshire
(£3355), and 2251 in Roxburghshire (£1243).— Or-rf.
Sur., sh. 33, 1863. See Nisbet House, and John
Small's Castles and Mansions of the Lothians (Edinb.
1883).

Herdsman. See Buachaille.

Heriot, a parish of SE Edinburghshire, containing,
towards its NE corner, Heriot station on the Waverley
section of the North British railway, 19^ miles (16 by
road) SE of Edinburgh, with a post and telegraph
office. It is bounded NW by Temple and Borthwick,
NE by Crichton, Fala, and detached sections of Borth-
wick and Stow, SE by the main body of Stow, SW by
Innerleithen in Peeblesshire, and W by Temple. Its
greatest length, from NE to SW, is 7| miles ; its
greatest breadth is 4^ miles ; and its area is 15,038J
acres. Formed by the confluence of Blackhope, Hope,
and Dewar Burns, which all three have their source near
the Peeblesshire border, Heriot Water winds 4f miles
east-north-eastward through the interior, till it unites
with Gala Water, itself rising on the northern verge
of the parish. At the point of their confluence the sur-
face declines to 770 feet above sea-level, and thence it
rises westward and south-westward to the Moorfoot
Hills, attaining 1394 feet near Roughsware, 1508 at
*Torfichen Hill, 1550 at Dod Law, 1435 at Dun Law,
1684 at *Mauldslie Hill, and 2136 at *Blackhoi'e Scar,
where asterisks mark those summits that culminate just
on the confines of the parish. All the interior, except-
ing strips of vale along the course of the streams, is hilly
upland ; but the hills, except on the boundaries, are
not ranges but congeries, which, having to a large ex-
tent been laid down in permanent pasture, no longer

HERMAND

offer a bleak and heathy appearance. The climate is
bracing, and very healthy. The rocks are mainly
Lower Silurian. The soil in the vales adjacent to the
streams is of the finest description, and, except in
late seasons, produces abundant crops. As it is,
little more than one-third of the entire area is either
regularly or occasionally in tillage, or might be profit-
ably brought under the plough. Two ancient Cale-
donian stone circles were on Heriot Town Hill-head and
Borthwick Hall Hill-head ; traces of ancient circular
camps are on some of the other hills ; the head and foot
stones of what is known as the ' Piper's Gi'ave ' are on
Dewae farm ; and a stone on which a woman was burned
for imputed witchcraft is supposed to have been near
Heriot station. The only mansion, Borthwick Hall, on
the right bank of Heriot Water, 3J miles SW of Heriot
station, is now the seat of David Johnstone Macfie, Esq.
(b. 1828), who holds 2036 acres in the shire, valued at
£1188 per annum. The Earl of Stair is a much larger
proprietor, and there are 5 lesser ones. Heriot is
in the presbytery of Dalkeith and synod of Lothian
and Tweeddale ; the living is worth £222. The parish
church, near Borthwick Hall, rebuilt in 1835, contains
210 sittings ; and a public school, with accommoda-
tion for 108 children, had (1881) an average attendance
of 54, and a grant of £56, 5s. Valuation (1860) £4315,
(1883) £5968, i)lus £1339 for railway. Pop. (1801) 320,
(1831) 327, (1861) 407, (1871) 414, (1881) 429.— 0;tZ.
Sur., shs. 24, 25, 1864-65.

Hermand, a mansion in West Calder parish, Edin-
burghshire, on the right bank of Hardwood Water, 1^
mile ENE of West Calder village. It was built towards
the close of last century by the judge Lord Hermand.

Hermiston, a village in Currie parish, Edinburghshire,
adjacent to the Union Canal, 1 mile SSE of Gogar
station, and 1§ N by W of Currie village, under which
it has a post office.

Hermiston. See Herdmandston.

Hermitage Castle, a ruined stronghold in Castleton
parish, Liddesdale, S Roxburghshire, on the left bank
of Hermitage Water, 3^ miles NW of Steele Road sta-
tion, and 5 J N by E of Newcastletou. ' About the
oldest baronial building in Scotland,' sa3's Dr Hill
Burton, 'it has scarcely any flanking works — nothing
but abutments at the corners, like the Norman towers ;
but in this instance they meet in a wide Gothic arch
overhead.' Its position is one of great natural strength,
and was further secured by extensive earthworks and by
a deep fosse, which enclosed it on the E, AV, and N.
Morasses and mountains surround it ; and the grim
towers, with their few, narrow windows and massive,
loopholed walls, add gloom to the desolate and cheerless
region. The interior is now a complete ruin. Her-
mitage Castle was founded in 1244 or a little earlier by
Walter Comyn, fourth Earl of Menteith, Liddesdale
having been held by the Soulis family from the first
half of the preceding century. On the Soulises' for-
feiture in 1320, Liddesdale was granted by Robert the
Bruce to Sir John Graham of Abercorn, whose heiress,
]\Iary Graham, conveyed it to her husband. Sir William
Douglas, ' the Knight of Liddesdale ' or ' Flower of
Chivalry.' He it was who, on 20 June 1342, at Hawick
seized the brave Sir Alexander Ramsay of Dalhousie,
and carried him captive to Hermitage Castle, where he
shut him up in a dungeon, and left him to die of star-
vation. It is told that above the place of his confine-
ment was a granary, and that Avith grains of corn which
dropped down through the crevices of the roof Ramsay
protracted a miserable existence for seventeen days. In
1492 Archibald Douglas, fifth Earl of Angus, exchanged
Liddesdale and the Hermitage with Patrick Hepburn,
first Earl of Bothwell, for Bothwell Castle on the Clyde.
Thus, in October 1566, the fourth and infamous Earl of
Bothwell was lying sore wounded by ' little Jock Elliot '
at the Hermitage, whither Queen Mary rode madly over
from Jedburgh (a stiif 20 miles), remained two hours
'to his great pleasure and content,' and then galloped
back — a feat that she paid for by a ten days' fever. In
1594, shortly after the forfeiture of Francis Stuart, last

HIGHLAND RAILWAY

Earl of Bothwell, the lordship of Liddesdale was acquired
by Sir AValter Scott of Buccleuch, whose ancestor David
had in 1470 received a gift of the governorship of the
Hermitage ; and the castle has since remained in the
possession of the Buccleuch famil}'. — Orel. Sur., sh. 11,
1863. See Castleton, Dalkeith, and Dr William
Eraser's Scotts of Buccleuch (2 vols., Edinb. , 1878).

Hermitage, The, a mansion in St Cuthbert's parish,
Midlothian, near the left bank of the Braid Burn, 3|
miles S by W of Edinburgh Post-office. It is the
home of the essayist, John Skelton, LL.D. (b. 1831).

Hermit's Cave. See Ellan-Vow.

Herrick. See Steatherrick.

Herriot's Dyke, an ancient earthen rampart, sub-
tended by a ditch, through the centre of Berwickshire,
westward from Berwick, past Greenlaw town and West-
ruther village, to the valley of Leader Water. It is
still traceable about 1 mile N of Greenlaw ; it is re-
corded to have long been traceable for about 14 miles
thence to the E ; and it is still traceable also in the
northern vicinity of Westruther ; but when it was con-
structed, or by whom, or for what purpose, is not
known.

Heughhead, a hamlet in Strathdon parish, W Aber-
deenshire, near the right bank of the Don, 16 miles
SSW of Rhyuie.

Hevera, an island of Bressay parish, Shetland, in
Scalloway Bay, 2 miles S of Burra. It measures 1 mile
in diameter, has the appearance of a high rock, and is
accessible only at one wild creek, overhung by cliffs.
Near its S side is an islet, called Little Hevera. Pop.
(1871) 32, (1881) 35.

Heywood, a collier village in Carnwath parish, E
Lanarkshire, with a station on the Auchengray and
AVilsontown branch of the Caledonian railway, 1;^ mile
E by S of Wilsontown. It has a ]iost office under
Lanark, a public school, and an Established chapel of
ease (1878). Pop. (1871) 793, (1881) 1121.— Ord Sur.,
sh. 23, 1865.

Hieton. See Heitox.

Highfield House, a mansion in Urray parish, SE
Ross-shire, 1| mile NNW of Muir of Ord station, and 4
miles N by W of Beauly. Its owner, George Francis
Gillanders, Esq. (b. 1854 ; sue. 1880), holds 10,000 acres
in the shire, valued at £2255 per annum. Highfield
Episcopal church, St Mary's, was built in 1836, and re-
stored in 1872.— Ord. Sur., sh. 83, 1881.

Highlandman, a station in Crieff parish, Perthshire,
on the Crieff Junction railway, IJ mile SE of Crieff
town.

Highland Railway, a railway serving the north and
north-western districts of Scotland, and traversing the
counties of Perth, Moray, Nairn, Inverness, and Ross,
with allied lines extending into the counties of Suther-
land and Caithness, and, at Strome Ferry on the west
coast, giving access to Skyeand the Hebrides. The system
comprises 305;^ miles in the main line, 110:| of allied
railways worked by the Highland Company, and 7^
of the Caledonian railway from Perth to Stanlej', over
which the Company has running powers under an annual
toll of £5000. The inception of the Highland railway
as a through line dates from 1856, when powers were
obtained to construct a line called the Inverness and
Aberdeen Junction from Keith, the terminus of the
Great North of Scotland railway (see Great North of
Scotland Railway) to Nairn. In 1854 the Inver-
ness and Nairn railway had been authorised, and was
opened as a single line, 15^ miles in length, in Novem-
ber 1855, this being the first portion of the system
actually in operation. The railway from Nairn to
Keith, 40 miles, was opened in August 1858. In 1861
an act was obtained for the construction of the Inver-
ness and Ross-shire railway, which was opened to Ding-
wall, 18 miles, in June 1862, and to Invergordon, 31*
miles, in May 1863. In 1861 the branch from Alves to
Burghead, 5J miles, was authorised, and it was opened
in 1862. In the meantime, by an act passed in June
1862, the Inverness and Aberdeen Junction and the
Inverness and Ross-shire railways were amalgamated ;

267

HIGHLAND RAILWAY

and b3'an act passed in 1S63, the amalgamated compan}'
obtained powers to make an extension to Tain and
Bonar-Bridge, 26^ miles, the last-named station being
the northern limit of the subseqnently amalgamated
companies. ^Vhile these railways were being constructed
on the basis of affording a continuation from the Great
North of Scotland line northwards, steps were taken to
open up an independent access to the North. In July
1854, the Perth and Dunkeld railway was incorporated,
and the line, 8f miles, was opened in April 1856. By
an act passed in 1861, the Inverness and Perth Junction
railway was sanctioned, 103^ miles in all, consisting of
a single line from Forres, on the railway first named, to
the terminus of the Perth and Dunkeld railway, with a
branch to Aberfeldy. This line (which was to be worked
by the Inverness and Aberdeen company) was opened
from the south to Pitlochry in June, from Forres south-
wards to Aviemore in August, and throughout in Sep-
tember 1863. In that year this company was amal-
gamated with the Perth and Dunkeld. In June 1865,
the various railwa3-s now described were amalgamated
imder the title of the Highland Railway. In July 1865
an act was obtained for the construction of the Dingwall
AND Skye Railway, which was in 1880 amalgamated
with, and now forms an integral part of, the Highland
railway. In the same year powers were got for the
Sutherland railway, which was projected to run from
Invergordon, the northern terminus of the Highland
railway, to Brora, a distance of 32^ miles. The line
was made to Golspie only, being 26J miles ; and under
an act obtained in 1870, the Duke of Sutherland was
empowered to make a railway from Golspie to Helms-
dale, a distance of 17 miles, occup3ang 6 miles of the
line formerly authorised, which were then abandoned.
In Jul}' 1871 the Sutherland and Caithness railway was
authorised, from Helmsdale to Wick, with a branch to
Thurso, the line being 66 miles in length. It was
opened in July 1874. All these lines last described
Avere made on the footing of being worked by the High-
land compan}^ In 1883 the total capital of the High-
land railway (including the capital of the amalgamated
Dingwall and Skye, £330,000) was £3,817,047, of which
there had been raised in shares £2,775,692 (ordinary
stock £1,681,962, the remainder in preference stocks at
various rates), in debenture stocks £1,041,355. The
capital of the Sutherland Railway Company amounted
to £204,850 (£144,930 ordinary stock, the remainder
debenture loans) ; the Duke of Sutherland had expended
£70,585 on his railway ; and the Sutherland and Caith-
ness Railway Company's capital amounted to £414,559
(ordinary stock £294,849, the remainder debenture
loans), making on the entire sj'stem a capital expendi-
ture of £4,440,040. On its ordinary stock the Highland
Railway Company has for some time paid a steady
dividend ; and the Sutherland Company, after meeting
interest on its loan capital, has paid on its ordinary
stock a small dividend of from f to IJ per cent. The
Duke of Sutherland regularly publishes the accounts of
his 17 miles of railway, on which, however, there is no

{)roper capital account, as no charge is made for the
and occupied. Taking the actual outlay in construct-
ing the line, the profit, after meeting the demands of
the working company, would be equal to nearly 3 per
cent. Throughout, the system consists of single line of
railways, with .suitable passing places at stations, etc.,
but the section between Inverness and Dalcross has been
made a double line. In the year last reported upon the
Highland railway carried 137,425 fir-st class, 67,242
second class, and 1,040,592 third class j^asscngers,
yielding, with 1921 season ticket holders, a revenue of
£140,755. Parcels and mails gave a revenue of £50,935,
merchandise £98,999, live stock £25,467, minerals
£24,810, and miscellaneous £7100, making a total
revenue of £349,080. For working the allied lines the
company received £21,733 in the year. The rolling
stock to earn this revenue consisted of 71 locomotives,
283 passenger vehicles (including luggage vans, etc.),
and 2404 waggons of various kinds, embracing the
significant item of 15 snow ploughs. The passenger
268

HIGHLAND RAILWAY

and goods traffic over the system is largely carried on
by mixed trains, so that the mileage under each head
cannot be given separately. The train mileage on the
principal line was 1,266,369J miles, on the Sutherland
railway 56,252, on the Duke of Sutherland's rail-
way 36,383f, and on the Sutherland and Caithness
railway 128,315, or a total of 1,486,321^ train miles
in the year. The accounts of the lesser companies
are issued once a year ; and from the last published
accounts it appears that in the year the Sutherland
Company carried 59,668 passengers, yielding £4095 in
fares, and that the total revenue for the year was
£10,779. The Duke of Sutherland's railway carried in
the year 40,652 passengers, and had a total revenue of
£5945 ; and the Sutherland and Caithness railway
carried 98,168 passengers, and received a total revenue
of £19,363. The receipts per train mile were, on the
Highland railway, 69. 62d. and 60.21d. respectively in
the two halves of the year, on the Sutherland railway
45.35d., ou the Duke of Sutherland's railway 38.81d.,
and on the Sutherland and Caithness railway 36. 85d
The Highland Railway Company is conducted by a
board consisting of a chairman, deputy-chairman, and
18 directors ; the Sutherland railway by a board con-
taining a chairman and 3 directors ; and the Sutherland
and Caithness railway by a board comprising chairman,
deputy-chairman, and 6 directors. The Duke of Suther-
land's railway is managed, financially, as part of the
estate.

While the Highland railway and its allied lines have
been largely instrumental in opening up a picturesque
and interesting portion of Scotland, and in attracting
many thousands of tourists annually to famous places
and districts, the primary object in their construction
has been the improvement of the country and the
development of its resources. The lines have been con-
structed to a very large extent by capital provided in
the district ; and while the financial success of the
main railway has made it a favourite with investors,
the continuation lines afford very little prospect of being
made remunerative in a direct way. In the construction
of the railways, the land has, as a rule, been obtained
on favourable terms, the railways having been made
after the earlier ideas that such works would impair or
destroy the value of property had died down. The rail-
ways reckon as amongstthe cheapest lines in the kingdom,
the average cost of construction having been, on the
original Highland line, £14,400 ; on the Dingwall and
Skye, £5880 ; on the Sutherland, £7548 ; on the Duke
of Sutherland's railway (outlay only), £4400 ; and on
the Sutherland and Caithness, £6280 per mile.

The trains northward on the Highland railway are
made up in the general station at Perth, at platforms
set apart for the purpose ; and from that terminus to
Stanley the route is over the Caledonian railway. From
Stanley (7^ miles from Perth) the line proceeds through
a rich part of Perthshire, a portion of Strathmore, and
reaches Murthly station (11^ miles), beyond which the
finely-wooded grounds of Murthly Castle are skirted.
The line passes through a tunnel of 300 yards just before
reaching Birnam station (15f miles), which occupies a
fine position on the side of Birnam Hill, with the Tay
flowing between the railway and the finely-situated town
of Dunkeld. We are here recalled to the fact that the
valley of the Tay, where we now arc, is the proper gate
of the Highlands ; and in selecting this as the point at
which to break through the mountain barriers, the rail-
way simply followed the example set by all, whether
Roman invaders, military road makers like General
Wade, or the more peaceable Highland Roads and
Bridges Commissioners, who have essayed the task.
The tourist finds himself here in the midst of the softer
attractions of the Highlands. The to^vn of Dunkeld is
beautifully situated amongst wooded hills, and its old
cathedral occupies a picturesque site, while at its side are
shown the first larches seen in Scotland, the tree having
been introduced by the Duke of Athole in 1738. Leaving
Dunkeld, the railway crosses the Bran, and beween this
point and Dalguise (20^ miles) there is a tunnel of 360

HIGHLAND RAILWAY

yards. At Dalguise the line crosses tlie Tay on a hand-
some lattice-girder bridge of 360 feet span. From here
to Guay (21f miles) the line passes through a fine valley,
^itli hill and wood and river, making up a beautiful
scene. Beyond Guay there is a fine view of the district
of the junction of the Tay and the Tummel ; and Ballin-
luig Junction (24 miles) is reached, where the Aberfeldy
line branches off. This branch, 9 miles long, crosses both
rivers on lattice-girder bridges, the Tay in two spans of
136 feet and two of 40 feet, and the Tummel in two spans
of 122 feet and two of 35 feet each. There are on the
branch u^jwards of forty bridges, and also a number of
heavy cuttings and embankments. There is a station
at Grandtully (4^ miles) and at Aberfeldy, the latter
being 33 miles from Perth. The next station on the
principal line is Pitlochry (28j miles), beyond which
the railwaj' traverses the famous and picturesque 'Pass of
Killiecrankie,' with Killiecrankie station, 32| miles from
Perth. Just before entering a short tunnel at the head
of the pass, the railway passes over a remarkable bit of
engineering, being carried on a lofty viaduct of stone
about five hundred yards long, and open below in ten
arches, generally dry, but provided in case of damage
from flood. This viaduct rises 40 feet above the bed
below, and as it curves round towards the tunnel, it
affords the traveller a very interesting view of the wild
pass and its surrounding hills. At Blair Athole (35^
miles) is seen the old house or castle of Blair, originally
a singularly plain building, but now very much altered
and improved by the present Duke of Athole. The
trees along the railway grounds, planted originally to
shut out the railway, now effectually shut out the view
of the castle except at one or two points, where a
momentary glimpse of it can be obtained. At a few
miles' distance the river Bruar is crossed. The famous
' petition ' made by Burns to the Duke of Athole has
been granted so fully that the beautiful falls on the
stream are now quite concealed from public view. Nu-
merous walks and bridges have been made to display
their beauties. "We now enter upon the more remote
and bleak portion of the line. The river Garry is seen
on the right, fretting and tossing over a very rocky bed ;
while on the left ranges of magnificent hills fill up the
scene. At Struan or Calvine station (40 miles) the rail-
way is carried across the river Garry on a iine stone
bridge of three arches 40 feet in height. Below the
centre span, which is 80 feet wide, the old road is
carried across the river Garry on an old bridge. Ap-
proaching Dalnaspidal station, the railway is carried
through a very heavy rock cutting. Looking westwards
a fine glimpse is obtained of Loch Garry. There is a
gooa road from Dalnaspidal by the foot of Schiehallion,
one of the most striking of Highland mountains. The
road skirts Loch Rannoch and Loch Tay on its route
to Aberfeldy. Before reaching the next station, the
line ascends by steep gradients to its summit-level on
the boundary of the counties of Perth and Inverness,
the height being 1462 feet above sea-level. The scenery
here is wild and desolate, presenting scarcely a sign of
human occupancy, or even of animal life save that of
grouse, for which the district is famous. We are here
traversing the forest of Drumouchter or the ' cold ridge.'
Crossing the watershed, the line descends rapidly for a
short distance, and then with a gentler gradient reaches
Dalwhinnie (58 miles), where, in the midst of a scene
of great desolation, the traveller is astonished to find
a busy railway station, ^vith many jjassengers joining
and leaving the train, this being the centre of a wide
district at which many roads converge. Two pro-
minent hills on the left are called respectively the Sow
of Athole and the Boar of Badenoch. The next station
is Newtonmore (68^ miles), the distance of lOJ miles
between those stations marking the desolate character
of the district through which the railway is here carried.
The township of Kingussie (71| miles) occupies an im-
portant position as a half-way station on the journey to
Inverness, and also as the point from which the coach runs
daily by Loch Laggan and Spean Bridge to Fort AVilliam.
The next station is Boat of Inch (77^ miles). On leaving

HIGHLAND RAILWAY

Kingussie, tlie ruined barracks of Ruthven are seen upon
a mound to the right ; and further on the left, on the
side of a wooded hill, are seen Belville House and the
monument erected to ilacphersou of Belville, the trans-
lator and editor of Ossian. The line is now completely
in rear of the Grampians, and at this part of the journey
splendid views of the northern ranges in Inverness-shire
are obtained. Two miles from Boat of Inch the railway
passes Tor Alvie, on the top of which is placed a cairn
in memory of Highlanders who fell at "Waterloo, and on
the Hill of Kinrara a tall pillar to the memorj' of the last
Duke of Gordon. Further on the opposite side the mass
of the Hill of Craigellachie is seen to the left. Aviemore
station (83| miles) is next reached. Along this portion
of the line have been executed some difiicult engineering
works, including a considerable amoimt of embanking,
to guard the railway against the floods on the impetuous
river Spey. Passing on to Boat of Garten station (88^
miles), the railway forms there a junction with the
Strathspey railway (see Great North of Scotland
Railway). Re-entering Inverness-shire, the railway
reaches Broomhill or Abernethy station (922 miles), and
here, bending more to the northward, takes leave of the
Spey, whose course it has followed for many miles, and
reaches Grantown (96 miles), beyond which it enters
upon heavy rock cuttings, and ascends by steep gradients
to an inferior summit-level on the Knock of Brae
Moray. Dava station (104J miles) lies on the northern
slope of the range, the line here descending by rapid
gradients. Five miles from Dava the railway crosses
the river Divie on a large stone bridge of seven spans,
and of great height. Like the other large viaducts
on this line, this bridge is flanked by battlemented
towers at each end. Beyond Dunphail station is the
descent towards Forres, in the course of which a fine
view is in clear weather obtained from the train, ex-
tending over the Moray Firth, and showing beyond the
bi'oken coast-line and fine mountain ranges in Ross,
Sutherland, and Cromarty. The train passes through a
deep cutting, and immediately thereafter crosses a
gigantic embankment of 77 feet high, and it then
descends to Forres Junction (119:^ miles), where the
lines to Keith and Inverness diverge.

At Keith station (149:| miles from Perth) there is a
through connection over the Great North of Scotland
railway to the south. The stations between Keith and
Forres are Midben (5 miles), Orton (8^), Fochabers
(11|), Lhanbryde (14J), Elgin (17?), Alves Junction
(23), and Kinloss (27) from Keith respectively. At
Orton there is a nominal junction with the Moray-
shire branch of the Great North of Scotland railway,
which is now disused. From Alves the Burghead
branch, 5 miles long, strikes ofl", with a stopping
place at Coltfield platform, and from Kinloss a short
branch leads to Findhorn. At present (1883) the
company is constructing a branch 13i miles long to
connect the important harbour of Buckie Avith the
system at Keith. Resuming the main journey towards
Inverness, we cross the Findhorn river on a handsome
girder bridi'-e of three large spans. To the right are
seen glimpses of the Culbin sands, which many years
ago covered over a fertile tract of country. The first
station is Brodie (122J miles from Perth), at which
Nairnshire is reached, and the river Nairn is crossed on
a stone bridge of four 70-feet sjians, reaching Nairn
station (128| miles). The line then proceeds to Fort
George station (134| miles), near the military depot of
that name, to Dalcross (1374), and Culloden (140f),
reaching the central station at Inverness (144), where
are placed the administrative offices and the exten-
sive workshops of the company. Leaving Inverness
the line crosses the Ness by a fine stone bridge,
and afterwards crosses the Caledonian Canal by a
swing bridge, so as not to intei'fere with the traffic of
the canal. The line in this part of its course follow?
in some measure the indentations of the coast, skirt
ing in succession the Beauly Firth, Cromarty Firth,
and Dornoch Firth, till Bonar-Bridge, at the head oi
the last named, is reached. The stations are Bunchi'ev*

269

HIGHLAND RAILWAY

(3J miles from Inverness), Leutrau (5f), Clunes (7i),
Beaiily (10), Muir of Ord, near the great market-stance
of that name (13), Conon (16*), Dingwall (18^), Novar
(25), Invergordon {BU), Delnv (34|), Parkhill (36S\
Nigg (39i), Fearn (40|), Tain (44^), Meikleferry (46|),
Edderton (49^), and Ardgay (57|t, this terminus of the
Highland line proper being 201^ miles from Perth. The
extension from Inverness to Ardgay passes through the
rich agricultural district of Easter Ross, with woods and
mansions indicating a cultivated and prosperous com-
munity. At Muir of Ord the country is bleaker, and
the portion from Tain to the terminus is also of a less
rich character. On the right going X the ej'e of the
traveller meets a pleasing succession of changeful
scenes as the several arms of the sea are approached
and left, and the moimtains of Ross-shire at varying
distances give a striking character to the prospects in
that direction. For its extent, the line from Inverness
to Tain presents the best proportion and the finest
examples of cultivated landscape on the system.

The Dingwall and Skye branch (so called because
from its western terminus it communicates by steamer
with the Isle of Skye) leaves the main line at Dingwall,
and, proceeding by a steep ascent, reaches Stratlipeffer
station (4^ miles), which occupies an elevated position
above the village and spa giving it a name. Proposals
are now (18S3) under consideration to make a branch on
a lower level to the village itself, with the ultimate
purpose of forming a loop with the main branch further
on, and so save the heavy gradients of this part of the
line. This route was originally proposed, but was
abandoned o\\ing to the opposition of one of the pro-
prietors. Leaving Strathpeifer, the railway continues
the ascent, and passes through a remarkable rock-
cutting, over which towers the gigantic mass of the
Raven Rock (Orcag-an-fhithaich) 250 feet high. Skirt-
ing Loch Garve, the line next reaches Garve station
(12 miles), at which point the coach for Ullapool, cross-
ing the 'Diridh ilore,' connects with the railway. A
bleak district of nine miles is here encountered, and
then the railway runs along the margin of the lower
end of Loch Luichart, where the landscape is finely
wooded. Between Loch Luichart station (17 miles) and
Achanault (21^ miles) the line follows the watercourse
of the district, passing the falls of Grudie and crossing
the Achanault Burn at the point where two small lochs
are divided by a neck. At Auchnasheen (271 miles)
the coaches for Loch Maree and Gairloch connect with
the railway, and a short distance beyond the line
crosses the watershed, reaching a summit-level of 634
feet above the sea-level. From Garve onwards the line
passes through a district of splendid mountain scenery,
and from Auchnasheen, descending rapidly towards the
western shore, enters upon scenes of much grandeur and
desolation, enlivened by an attractive oasis in Auchna-
sheUach (40 miles), a pictm-esque house surrounded by
fine gardens placed in the midst of a bare and forbidding
mountain region. At Strathcarron (45f miles) the rail-
way strikes the coast of Loch Carron, an extensive
sea loch, and, pursuing the shore-line, reaches Attadale
(48 miles) and Strome Ferry (53 miles from Dingwall
and 21 5i from Perth), the present terminus of the
line. The originally proposed terminus was 10^ miles
further on, at Kj^le-Akin, where a narrow strait only
divides the mainland from Skye, the titular terminus
of the railway.

The Sutherland railwaj- starts from Bonar-Bridge,
and, following the line of the Kyle of Sutherland,
strikes inland until the foot of Loch Shin is reached,
when it curves seaward again, traversing Strath Fleet
and reaching the sea at Golspie. Beyond Invershin
starion (3^ miles from Bonar) the railway follows the
course of the river Shin, a romantic scene, in the course
of which some heavy rock cuttings and embankings
had to be executed. Lairg station (9 miles) is a noted
terminus for anglers, who here leave the railway for
Loch Shin and a multitude of inland and sea lochs
which have no nearer access, and to which conveyance
is had in mail gigs, etc. Passing from the hilly dis-
270

HIGHTAE

tricts into more cultivated regions, the railway passes
Rogart (19 miles) and The ilound (23), the latter
situated at the great embankment, with sluices, built by
the Highland Roads and Bridges Commissioners at a
cost of £12,000. Golspie station (26J miles) stands at
the W end of the fishing ■v'illage of that name, at the E
end of which stands the palatial residence of the Duke
of Sutherland, Dunrobin Castle. The railway route is
now for 17 miles carried on by the line built by the
Duke of Sutherland almost entirely at his own expense.
Beyond Golspie there is a private station called Dun-
robin, only used when notice to stop is given, and
occupying a position near one of the approaches to the
castle. The other stations are Brora (6 miles). Loth
(II5), and Helmsdale (17), the last-named, at the im-
portant fishing village of that name, being the
terminus of the Duke of Sutherland's railway. From
Helmsdale the route is continued by the line of the
Sutherland and Caithness Company. Beyond Helms-
dale the public road northwards crosses the Ord of
Caithness, but the railway line tui'ns aside to follow
inland the course of the Helmsdale river, in Strath
Ilie, the first station being Kildonan (91 miles from
Helmsdale), beyond which it crosses a long stretch of
wild and exposed country, where snow blocks on the
railway are of frequent occurrence in winter. The
stations here are Kinbrace (16| miles), Forsinard (24^),
and Altnabreac (324), beyond which, in a more low-
land territoiy, there are stations at Scotscalder (41f)
and Halkirk (44), and at Georgemas Junction (46) the
lines for Wick and Thurso diverge. The distance to
Thurso is 6J miles, with an intermediate station at
Hoy, the terminus being 298 miles from Perth. The
line to "Wick proceeds to Bower (2| miles from the
junction), Watten (6J), and Bilbster (9), the extreme
terminus of the system being at "Wick, 14 miles from
Georgemas Junction, I6I5 from Inverness, and 305 from
Perth.

The Highland railway and its continuations fulfil an
important fimction in providing communication over a
very large portion of Scotland, perfonning the three-
fold task of opening up a market for the produce of the
hills in sheep, cattle, grain, etc. , of carrying merchan-
dise into the district from other quarters, and of open-
ing up to tourists and sportsmen some of the grandest
portions of Scottish sceuerj". Excepting Inverness, the
towns served by the line are small, but, as will be seen,
the railway touches at many fishing villages on the
Moray Firth and further N, embracing the important,
but not now undisputed, capital of the herring fishery,
Wick. B}' means of the branch to Strome Ferry it has
opened up an alternative route to Skye and the Outer
Hebrides, previously only accessible by long sea voy-
ages. In the extreme N the development of the railway
has not rewarded those by whose capital the lines were
made, the sinuous line followed in order to render the
system valuable locally having in a great measure
lessened its likelihood of proving a good through line
for trafiic to Orkney. In the branches to Aberfeldy
and Strome Ferry, as well as in the main through
route, the railway holds an important place in the
tourist routes throughout Scotland, many tours in
conjunction with coaches, steamers on the Caledonian
Canal, etc. , being organised. The most striking feature
of the system, in the eye of a stranger, is the long
stretches of apparently desolate country through which
the railway for many miles pursues its way, while at
many points the view obtained from the train embraces
scenes of grandeur and impressiveness not excelled in
any other railway in the kingdom. The Highland
Company is now (1883) engaged in resisting the pro-
posal to construct a new railway to Inverness, traversing
the line of the Caledonian Canal, Glencoe, Loch Lomond,
etc. , to a junction with the North British railway near
Glasgow.

Hightae, a village and a lake in Lochmaben parish,
Duiiitriesshire. The village stands on a fertile alluvial
tract near the river Annan, 2^ miles SSE of Lochmaben
town, and 4 SW of Lockerbie. The largest of the so-

HIGHTOWN

called Four Towns, it has a post ofiBce under Lockerbie,
a Free church, and a public school. Hishtae Loch
(2| X IJ furl.) lies IJ mile NNW of the village, and 3
furlongs S bv W of the Castle Loch, and is -n-ell stocked
with fish. Pop. of village (1871) 409, (1881) 324.—
Ord. Sur., sh. 10, 1864.

Hightown. See Heitox.

Hillend, a village in Inverkeithing and Dalgety par-
ishes, Fife, 1^ mile NE of Inverkeithing town. It has
a post office under Inverkeithing and a public school.

Hillend, a village in Shotts parish, NE Lanarkshire,
5 miles ENE of Airdrie. Hillend Eesei-voir, on the
mutual border of Shotts and New Monkland parishes,
is traversed by the North Caldek, and has an utmost
length and breadth of 10^ and 4| furlongs. — Ord. Sur.,
sh. 31, 1867.

Hillhead. See Gov an.

Hillhead, a village and a mansion in Cockpen parish,
Edinburghshire, near Lasswade.

Hillhead, an estate, with a mansion, in Caputh parish,
Perthshire. The mansion, surmounting the brae on the
E of Dunkeld, and overlooking the town and bridge, is
an elegant edifice, and commands a panoramic view of
the surroimding scenery,

Hillhouse, an estate, with a mansion, in Kirknewton
parish, Edinburghshire, 1 mile E by N of ilidcalder
Junction.

Hillhouse, an estate, with a mansion, in Dundonald
parish, Ayrshire, 3 miles NNE of Troon. Prince Louis
Napoleon, afterwards Emperor of the French, stayed
here in 1839 at the time of the EgUnton Tournament.

Hill of Angels. See Iona.

Hill of Beath, a mining village in Beath parish, Fife,
h mile NW of Crossgates station, and Sf miles ENE of
Dunfermline. Pop. (1871) 315, (1881) 352.

Hill of Blair. See Blairgowrie.

Hill of Cromarty. See Cromaett.

Hill of Dores, one of the Sidlaw Hills in Kettins
parish, SE Forfarshire, adjacent to the boundary ^rith
Perthshire, 3 miles SE of Coupar-Angus. It was
crowned with an old castle, traditionally said to have
been for some time the residence of Macbeth.

Hill of Fare. See Fare.

Hill of Keillor, a village in Newtyle parish, Forfar-
shire, 4 miles E of Coupar-Angus.

Hill of Nigg, a hill in Nigg parish, NE Eoss-shire.
Extending along the coast, from the North Sutor of
Cromarty to the farm of Shandwick, it measures 4j
miles in length and 2 in breadth ; rises to altitudes of
from 300 to 600 feet above sea-level ; presents to the
sea a precipitous face, pierced with caves and fissures,
and mostly about 300 feet high ; and commands, from
its summits, an extensive and brilliant view, from Caith-
ness and Sutherland to Banffshire and Perthshire. — Ord.
Sur., sh. 94, 1878.

Hillside, a village and a quoad sacra parish in Slon-
trose parish, Forfarshire. The village stands on sloping
gi'ound, \ mile NNE of Dubton Junction, and 2| miles
NNW of Montrose town, under which it has a post
office. Straggling over a considerable area, it contains
a number of fine villas, and is a summer retreat of
families fronr Montrose. The parish, constituted in
1872, is in the presbytery of Brechin and synod of
Angus and Meams; its minister's stipend is £120. The
church was built in 1869 at a cost of £1000. Pop. of
village (1871) 326, (1881) 314; of q. s. parish (1871)
1352, (1881) li?,0.—Ord. Sur., sh. 57, 1868.

Hillside, a village in Banchory-Devenick parish, Kin-
cardineshire, 1 mile N of Portlethen station. It has a
post office under Aberdeen.

Hillside, an estate, with a mansion, in Aberdour
parish, Fife, a little N of the village.

Hillside, an estate, ^\-ith a mansion, in the detached
section of Torrybum parish, SW Fife, 8 miles NNW of
Dunfermline.

Hillslap. See Allex.

Hills Tower, an ancient tower in Lochrutton parish,
E Kirkcudbrightshire, 5| miles "WSW of Dumfries.
Dating from times unknown to record, it includes a later

HOBKIRK

entrance lodge inscribed with the date 1598, and con-
tinues in tolerable preservation.

Hillswick, a seaport village and a voe or bay in North-
maven parish, Shetland. The village stands on the voe,
12 miles S by W of the northern extremity of the main-
land, and 25 NNW of Lerwick, under which it has a
post office. The voe penetrates the land 3 miles north-
north-eastward ; is flanked on the W side by a narrow
peninsula, terminating in a point called Hills\vick Ness ;
affords well-sheltered anchorage ; and is a good deal
frequented by vessels.

Hilltown, Berwickshire, etc. See Hilton.

Hilton, an ancient parish in 31erse district, SE Ber-
wickshire, united in 1735 to Whitsome. The cuurch,
on a small hill, 1| mile E by N of Whitsome church,
was once adjoined by a hamlet, taking from the site the
name of Hilton or Hilltown ; and is still represented
by a disused burying-grround.

Hilton. See Fodderty.

Hilton of Cadboll, a fishing village, with a public
school, in Fearn parish, NE Ross-shire, on the Moray
Firth, 4i miles ESE of Fearn station. Pop. (1861) 385,
(1871) 429, (1881) 390.

Hinnisdale or Hinistil, a rivulet in Trotternish dis-
trict, Isle of Skye, Invei'ness-shire, running 5i miles
west-south-westward to Loch Snizort at a point 3 miles
SSE of the mouth of Uig Baj-.

Hirbesta, a village in the W of Trotternish district,
Isle of Skye, Inverness-shire. Its post-town is Kilmuir,
under Porti^ee,

Hirsel, The, a seat of the Earl of Home in Coldstream
parish, Berwickshire, on the right bank of Leet Water,
If mile NNW of Coldstream town. A spacious sandstone
edifice, it stands amid beautiful grounds, adorned with
very fine woods and with an artificial lake (2 x 1^^ furl.).
Stone coffins and gi-eat c^uantities of human bones have
been exhumed on the gi-ounds. Charles-Alexander-
Douglas-Home, seventeenth Baron Home since 1473,
and twelfth Earl of Home since 1605 (b. 1834 ; sue.
1881), holds 2597 acres in Berwickshire, valued at
£5245 per annum. — Ord. Sur., sh. 26, 1864. See also
Hume, Bothwell, and Douglas Castle.

Hirst, a hill (959 feet) in Shotts parish, NE Lanark-
shire, on the watershed between the Ch"de and the
Forth, 1\ mile E by N of the parish church. It emits,
from its E side, the head-stream of the Almond ; and
its summit commands a very extensive view.

Hirta, See St Kilda.

Hoan, a green, fertile island of Durness parish, NW
Sutherland, within 5 furlongs of the mainland, off the
W side of the mouth of Loch EriboU. It measures
7 by 1^ furlongs, and rises to a height of 83 feet. — Ord.
Sir,:, sh. 114, 1880.

Hobgoblin Hall. See Tester.

Hobkirk (anciently HopekirJc), a Teviotdale parish of
Roxburghshire, containing the post office of Bouchester
Bridge, 7 miles E by S of the post-town, Hawick. It
is bounded E by Bedrtrle, Jedburgh, and Southdean, S
by Castleton, and W and NW by Cavers. Its utmost
length, from NNE to SSW, is lOf miles ; its utmost
breadth is 4 J miles ; and its area is 16,242 acres, of
which 49 are water. Rule Water is formed by several
head-streams in the S, and runs, from their confluence,
first 4J miles north-north-eastward through the interior,
next 2J miles northward on or close to the Bedmle
border. Some head-streams, too, of Slitrig Water rise
and run in the SW comer. In the extreme N, the
surface declines along the Rule to close on 300 feet above
sea-level, thence rising south-south-westward to 1392
feet at 'dark Ruberslaw,' 1059 at round, green Bon-
chester Hill, 1210 at Stonedge Hill, 1312 at Pike Fell,
1662 at Windburgh Hill, and 1687 at Fanna Hill, which
belongs to the mountain chain that separates Teviot-
dale from Liddesdale. The interior mainly consists of
the narrow vale of Rule Water, with its flanking heights,
and comprises a belt of haughs scarcely \ mile broad.
Silurian rocks predominate in the S ; sandstone, in the
N, yields suitable building material ; and limestone
occurring in considerable masses, has been quarried and

271

HODDAM

calcined in several places. Trap rocks are found on
Windburgh, Bonchester, and Ruberslaw Hills, and in a
dyke traversing the lower part of the parish from E to
W. Indications of coal have been observed. Pieces of
detrital fossil wood are found in the bed of the Rule ;
and a stratum of agate or coarse jasper, frequently used
for seals and other ornaments, occurs at Robertslin.
The soil of the haughs is a deep, strong, fertile clay,
mixed in some places with small boulders, in other
jjlaces with sand ; that of the acclivities, at a distance
from the streams, is light, sandy, and naturally very
barren. Less than one-fifth of the entire area, so late
as 1836, was in tillage or in grass parks ; but a great
additional extent of pasture land has since been brought
under cultivation, and bears fair grain crops. Planta-
tions cover some 800 acres, and much of the uplands is
still pastoral or waste. The chief antiquities are ancient
fortifications on Bonchester Hill, and vestiges of ancient
camps or fortifications on Ruberslaw, at Wauchope, and in
several other places. The Rev. Robert Riccalton, author
of two volumes of essays and sermons, was minister of
Hobkirk from 1725 till 1769 ; and the poet Thomson,
spending with him some part of his early life, is said to
Lave planned his Scaso7is here, and to have borrowed
fi'om surrounding places much of the scenery in its
descriptions. Mansions, noticed separately, are Hall-
rule, Harwood, Langraw, "Wauchope, Weens, and AVells ;
and 8 proprietors hold each an annual of £500 and
upwax'ds. Hobkirk is in the presbytery of Jedburgh
and synod of Merse and Teviotdale ; the living is worth
£430. The parish church, £ mile S of Bonchester Bridge,
was built in 1S5S, and contains 412 sittings. A Free
church, at Wolflee, contains 200 ; and Hobkirk public
school, with accommodation for 148 childi-en, had (1881)
an average attendance of 72, and a grant of £58, 15s. 8d.
Valuation (1864) £9008, 14s. 9d., (1882)£11,595, 18s. lid.
Pop. (1801) 760, (1821) 652, (1841) 776, (1871) 718, (1881)
66-2. — Onl. Sur., sh. 17, 1864.

Hoddam, an Annandale parish of S Dumfriesshire,
comprising, since lti09, tlie ancient parishes of Hod-
dam, Luce, and Ecclefechan, and containing near its E
border the post-town and station of Ecclefechan. It
is bounded N by Tundergarth, E by Middlebie, SE by
Annan, SW by Annan and Cummertrees, and W by St
Mungo. Its utmost length, from N to S, is 5| miles ;
its utmost breadth, from E to AV, is 3| miles ; and its
area is 7564J acres, of which 50j are water. The river
Annan flows 4| miles south-eastward along the south-
western border ; its affluent, ]\Iilk Water, over the last
5 furlongs of its course, roughly traces part of the
Avestern boundary ; and Mein Water, after flowing for 7
furlongs just beyond the south-eastern boundary, runs
9^ furlongs across a southern wing, and falls into the
Annan at a point 1| mile SSW of Ecclefechan. The
south-western and southern district is low and level,
sinking little below 100, and little exceeding 200, feet
above sea-level ; from it the surface rises northward to
474 feet at Three Well Brae, 503 at Relief, 550 at
Douglashall, and 920 at conspicuous Brunswark Hill.
The parish generally is richly embellished with hedge-
rows, clumps of wood, and high cultivation, and com-
bines, with surrounding heights, to form a finely
picturesque landscape. The rocks comprise sandstone,
limestone, clay-slate, clay ironstone, and thin seams of
coal. The soil along the Annan is a rich, deep, alluvial
loam ; in the lands further E and N is light and
gravelly, yet fertile ; and in the higher grounds towards
Brunswark Hill inclines to clay, incuiiibent on a cold
till. Some 70 acres are under wood ; about one-tenth of
the entire area is sheep-pasture, chiefly on Brunswark
Hill ; and all the rest of the land is in tillage. The
Hoddam estate, held from the 14th or 15th century by
the powerful Herries family, was acquired from the
sixth Lord Herries about 1627 by Sir Richard Murray
of Cockfoot, whose nephew, the second Earl of Annan-
dale, conveyed it aljout 1653 to David, first Earl of
Southesk. Charles, fourth Karl of Southesk, in 1690
sold castle and barony to Jolin Sharjie, wliose ancient
line ended in the four brothers — (Jeueral Matthew
272

HOLLOWS

Sharpe, Liberal M.P. for the Dumfries burghs from 1832
to 1841 ; Charles Kirkpatrick Sharpe (17^81-1851), the
' Scots Horace Walpole ; ' Admiral Alexander Renton
Sharpe (d. 1858) ; and William John Sharpe (1797-1875),
of sporting celebrity. In 1878 the property was pur-
chased by Edward Brook, Esq. (b. 1825). The original
castle, said to have been a seat of the royal Bruces about
the beginning of the 14th century, stood at Hallguards,
on the left bank of the Annan, 2 miles AVSW of Eccle-
fechan, and was demolished in terms of a Border treaty.
The present castle stands in Cummertrees parish, 3|
miles WSW of Ecclefechan, near the right bank of the
Annan, and at the foot of Repentance Hill (350 feet),
with its consj)icuous square, thick-walled beacon-tower,
25 feet high, and dating from the 15tli century. Hod-
dam Castle itself is of the same period, massive and
picturesque, enlarged by a wing in Gen. Sharpe's time
from designs by Mr Burn, and commanding a view of
one of the loveliest Dumfriesshire straths. Knockhill,
1^ mile WSW of Ecclefechan, is the only mansion in
Hoddam parish, whose chief antiquities are noted under
Brunswaek. The birthplace and grave of Thomas
Carlyle are described under Ecclefechan, but it may
be added that a tombstone was erected to his memory
in the summer of 1882. When in 573 a.d. St. Kenti-
gern returned from Wales to the Cumbrian region,
' King Rydderch Hael and his people went forth to
meet him, and they encountered each other at a place
called Holdelm, now Hoddam. . . . Here he fixed
his see for a time ; but afterwards, warned by divine
revelation, he transferred it to his own city Glasgow '
(Skene's Celtic Scotland, ii. 191, 1877). Five proprietors
holds each an annual value of £500 and upwards, 3 of
between £100 and £500, 5 of from £50 to £100, and 16
of from £20 to £50. Giving off a portion to Bridekirk
quoad sacra parish, Hoddam is in the presbytery of
Annan and synod of Dumfries ; the living is worth
£344. The present parish church, 9 furlongs SW of
Ecclefechan, was built in 1817, and contains 500 sittings.
At Ecclefechan are a Gothic Free church (1878 ; 280
sittings), a Gothic U.P. church (1865; 600 sittings),
and Hoddam public school, which, with accommodation
for 294 children, had (1881) an average attendance of
180, and a grant of £157, 4s. Valuation (1860) £7538,
(1883) £11,087, 14s. lOd. Pop. (1801) 1250, (1831)
1582, (1861) 1653, (1871) 1598, (1881) 1548, of whom
1445 were in the ecclesiastical parish. — Ord. Sur., sh,
10, 1864.

Hodges, a farm in Gladsmuir parish, Haddingtonshire,
4i miles SW of Haddington. Once part of an extensive
common belonging to Haddington, it was given by that
burgh's magistrates to an eminent lawyer of the name of
Hodge.

Holbum Head, a magnificent headland (306 feet) in
Thurso jiarish, Caithness, flanking the W side of Thurso
Bay, projecting from a peninsula between that bay and
the North Sea, and terminating 2 miles N by AV of
Thurso town. The neighbouring rocks exhibit astonish-
ing scenes of natural grandeur ; and one of them, called
the Clett, has been noticed separately. — Orel. Sur., sh.
116, 1878.

Holehouse, Canonbie, Dumfriesshire. See Hollows.

Holekettle or Kettle Bridge, a village in Kettle parish,
<n?ntral Fife, h mile S of Kettle village. Pop. (1871)
493, (1881) 451.

HoU, a village in the NW of the Isle of Skye, Inver-
ness-shire. Its post-town is Kilmuir, under Portree.

Holland, an estate, with a mansion, in Papa Westray,
Orkney, 20 miles N of Kirkwall.

Hollandbush, a village on the mutual border of Denny
and Kilsyth parishes, Stirlingshire, 3 miles SSW of
Denny town. It stands contiguous to Haggs village.
Pop. of the two villages (1871), 534, (1881) 524, of
whom 7 were in Kilsylli.

Hollows, a ruined Border tower in Canonbie jjarish,
SK Dumfriesshire, on the right side of the Esk, 2 miles
NNW of Canonbie village. Occupying a site of great
natural beauty, it is 60 feet long, 46 wide, and 70 high ;
has round turrets at two of its angles ; and was the

HOLLOW-WOOD

HOLYWOOD

stronghold of the notorious freebooter, Johnnie Arm-
strong of GiLXOCKiE. — Orel. Sur., sh. 11, 1863.

Hollow-Wood or Howwood, a village in Lochwinnoch
parish, Renfrewshire, with a station on the Glasgow and
South-Western railway, 3 miles SW of Johnstone town.
It has a post office under Paisley, a public school, and
a chapel of ease, which last in 1874 was repaired and
adorned with a handsome memorial window. Pop.
(1871) 312, (1881)333.

Hollybush, a mansion in Dalrymple parish, Ayrshire,
near the right bank of the Doon, and ^ mile SW of
Hollybush station on the Ayr and Dalmellington
branch of the Glasgow and South-Western railway, this
being 6| miles SE of Ayr.

Hollylee. See Holylee.

Holm, a parish in the SE of Orkney. Comprising
the ancient ecclesiastical districts of Holm and Paplay,
the former on the W, the latter on the E, it includes a
south-eastern section of Pomona and the island of
Lambholm ; and contains, on the S coast of its Pomona
secrion, 7 miles SE by S of Kirkwall, the village of
St Mary's Holm, with a post office under Kirkwall. Its
Pomona section is bounded IsE by St Andrews and
Deerness, E by the German Ocean, S by Holm Sound,
SW and W by Scapa Flow, and NW by Kirkwall. Its
utmost length, from NW to SE, is 6 miles ; its utmost
breadth is 3 J miles ; and its area is 8451 acres. The
Pomona section has mostly rocky shores ; projects the
headlands of Roseness to the SE, and of Howquoy or
Skeldec^uoy to the SW ; contains several small lakes ; has
mostly thin, loamy, tolerably fertile soil ; and resembles,
in its agriculture, the rest of Pomona. Holm Sound,
separating Pomona from Burray, and varying in breadth
from IJ mile to 2h miles, contains Lambholm Island
towards its centre and Glimsholm Island nearer Burray ;
affords secure anchorage over most of its extent, and
much shelter contiguous to Lambholm ; and has, on its
NW coast, a pier where vessels of 50 tons may unload.
The herring and cod fisheries are extensively carried on.
Two proprietors hold each an annual value of more, and
three of less, than £100. Holm is in the presbytery of
Kirkwall and synod of Orkney ; the living is worth
£190. The parish church stands on the S coast, and was
built in 1818. There are also a Free church (1870) and
a U. P. church ; and two public schools. East and West,
with respective accommodation for 60 and 120 children,
had (1881) an average attendance of 43 and 65, and
grants of £35, 13s. 6d. and £72, 13s. 6d. Valuation
(1860) £1195, (1881) £2766, 15s. Pop. (1801) 871,
(1831) 747, (1861) 834, (1871) 935, (1881) 1090.

Holmains, an old baronial tower and a range of hills
in Dalton parish, Dumfriesshire. The tower, 4 miles
S of Lochmaben, was the seat of a branch of the Car-
ruthers family. It does not appear to have been a
place of gi'eat strength, and now is an utter ruin. The
hills, extending N and S, rise to an altitude of 800 feet
above sea-level.

Holme or Holme Rose, an estate, with a handsome
modern mansion, in Croy parish, NE Inverness-shire,
near the left bank of the river Nairn, 4 miles S by E of
Fort George station. Held by his ancestors since 1541,
it is now the property of the Rev. Hugh Francis Rose
(b. 1821 ; sue. 1867), who owns 4809 acres in Inverness
and Nairn shires, valued at £675 per annum. — Ord.
Sur., sh. 84, 1876.

Holms Water, a rivulet of Broughton and Glenholm
parish, W Peeblesshire, rising close to the boundary
with Lanarkshire at an altitude of 1750 feet. Thence
it runs 7f miles north-north-eastward, till, after a
descent of 1100 feet, it falls near Rachan House into
Biggar Water | mile above that stream's confluence with
theTweed. It affords good trout-fishing. — Ord. Sur.,
shs. 16, 24, 1864.

Holybush. See Hollybush.

Holydean Castle. See Bowden.

Holy Isle, an island of Killn-ide parish, Arran, Bute-
shire, in the mouth of Lanilash Bay. Measuring If
mile in length and from 3j to 5 furlongs in breadth,
it rises to a height of 1030 feet. Its surface is pic-

turesquely variegated with heath-clad acclivities, grassy
ridges, and columnar masses — the last consisting of
clinkstone on bases of sandstone, and rising tier above
tier to the summit. Its height, as seen from the water,
looks almost grander than that of Goatfell ; and its
summit is more difficult to scale, and commands nearly
as brilliant a view. It is said to have got its name from
being the retreat of a Culdee anchorite, St Maol Jos,
whose hermitage, in the foi-m of a natural cave, is still
shown on its western side ; and near this is a spring, a
' holy well,' which for centuries bore a surpassing repute
among the superstitious for curing all sorts of diseases.
Ord. Sur., shs. 13, 21, 1870.

Holy Isles. See Garvelloch.

Holylee, an estate, with a mansion, in the Selkirk-
shire section of Innerleithen parish, near the left bank
of the Tweed, 2 miles E by N of Walkerburn station.
Its owner, James George Ballantyne, Esq. (b. 1837 ;
sue. 1870), holds 6660 acres in Selkirk and Peebles
shires, valued at £1807 per annum. — Ord. Sur., sh. 25,
1875.

Holy Linn, a wooded, picturesque cascade of Garpel
Burn, Kirkcudbrightshire, on the boundary between
Balmaclellan and Dairy parishes. It got its name from
being the place at which the ejected minister of Balma-
clellan, in the daj^s of the persecution, baptized at one
time thirty-six children of his flock.

Holy Loch, an elongated bay of Dunoon and Kilmun
parish, Argyllshire. Opening from the Firth of Clyde,
between Strone Point on the N and Hunter's Quay on
the S, and striking west-north-westward to the mouth
of Stratheachaig, it measures 2J miles in length and 7
furlongs in extreme breadth. It looks right across to
Ashton and the pleasant seaboard of Renfrewshire ; its
N side is steeply flanked by heathy Kilmun Hill (1535
feet), its S side by swells and braes, sloping upward more
gently to the Bishop's Seat (1651) ; whilst its shores,
in an almost continuous belt of narrow low ground, are
fringed with the villages of Strone, Kilmun, Ardna-
dam, Sandbank, and Hunter's Quay. Its lower part
affords good anchorage in 16 or 17 fathoms of water ;
its sides, over much of their extent, have good bathing
beaches ; and its upper part, during the recess of the
tide, is silty foreshore, frecjuented by flocks of sea-fowl.
Holy Loch is said by tradition to have received its
name from the stranding within it of a vessel freighted
with earth from the Holy Land, to lay beneath the
foundations of Glasgow Cathedral ; and, in the days
of quarantine, it was the quarantine station for the
Clyde, with lazaretto and stores on its S shore. — Ord.
Sur., sh. 29, 1873.

Holyrood. See Edinburgh.

HolytowB, a town in Bothwell parish, Lanarkshire, 1
mile E by N of Holytown Junction on the Caledonian
railway, 5^ miles SSE of Coatbridge, and 11 ESE of
Glasgow. Surrounded by a well-worked part of the
Lanarkshire mineral-field, and partaking largely in the
industry and traffic connected with the working of the
same, it experienced considerable increase of prosperity
from the opening of the Cleland and Midcalder railway
(1866), in result partly of through traffic on that line and
partly of junction-communication with Motherwell. It
includes the suburb of New Stevenston, ^ mile SSW ;
and has a post office, with money order, savings' bank,
and telegraph departments, a branch of the Clydesdale
Bank, 3 insurance agencies, gasworks, a quoad sacra
parish church, a Free church, and a public school. The
quoad sacra parish is in the presbyter}^ of Hamilton and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; its minister's stipend is
£120. Pop. of town (1836) 755, (1861) 1135, (1871)
2197, (1881) 2480, of whom 1048 were in New Steven-
ston ; oiq. s. parish (1871) 10,099, (1881) I0,ii9.— Ord.
Sur., sh. 31, 1867.

Holsrwood, a village and a parish of Nithsdale, W
Dumfriesshire. The village stands 1^ mile S of Holy-
wood station on the Glasgow and South-Western rail-
way, this being 3^ miles NNW of Dumfries, under
which there is a post office.

The parish is bounded NW and N by Duuscore, NE

273

HOLYWOOD

and E by Kirkmahoe, SE by Dumfries, and S by Terre-

gles and Kirkpatrick-Irongray in Kirkcudbrightshire.
Its utmost length, from E to AV, is S§ miles ; its breadth,
from N to S, varies between ^ mile and 2| miles ; and
its area is 8939 A acres, of which 135 are water. The
NiTH sweeps 6 miles south-south-eastward along or close
to all the boundary with Kirkmahoe and Dumfries ;
and Cludrn Water, its affluent, winds 6§ miles east-
south-eastward along the Kirkcudbrightshire border,
itself being fed by Cairn "Water and other burns. Along
the Nith the surface declines to 28 feet above sea-level,
and all the eastern half of the parish is low and flat,
nowhere exceeding 100 feet ; but the western is hillier,
attaining 759 feet in Steilston Hill, 786 in Killyleoch
Hill, and 875 in Speddoch Hill. Silurian rocks prevail
in the hills, limestone and red sandstone in the plain,
and boulders of granite, trap, greywacke, and con-
glomerate abound in many places ; whilst, on some
lands near the centre, blocks of lead-ore have been turned
up by the plough. The soil adjacent to the Nith and
to the Cluden is deep alluvium, entirely free from stones ;
further back is dry, somewhat light, and mostly incum-
bent on coarse sand ; still further back is a deep strong
loam ; and, on the hills, is loamy, but shallow and un-
suited to the plough. . About 300 acres are hill pasture,
360 moss, 120 meadow, and 500 underwood, all the rest
of the land being in tillage. In the SE corner of the
churchyard stood a Premonstratensian abbey, founded
between 1121 and 1154 by John, Lord of Kirkconnel, a
member of the Maxwell family. It held the churches
and church-lands of Holywood, Dunscore, Penpont,
Tynron, and Kirkconnel, whilst exercising jurisdiction
over many lands in Nithsdale and East Galloway ; and,
in 1618, with the propertj' belonging to it, it was con-
stituted a temporal barony in favour of John Murray
of Lochmaben and his heirs. The choir of its cruci-
form church served as the parish church from the Refor-
mation till 1779, when it was taken down to furnish
materials for the present building. It is now repre-
sented by only two good bells in the present church's
belfry. Joannes de Sacro Bosco, a monk here in 1221,
became a member of the University of Paris, and was
one of the greatest mathematicians of the Middle Ages.
Abbot Dungal and his monks, in 1296, swore fealty to
Edward I. of England ; and the last abbot, Thomas
Campbell, gave aid to Queen Mary after her escape from
Lochleven Castle, and incurred forfeiture in 1568. A
hospital, with a chapel, near the abbey, was founded by
Edward Bruce, the brother of King Robert Bruce ; and,
having been demolished during the wars of the succes-
sion, in 1372 was rebuilt by Archibald Douglas, Lord of
Galloway, and endowed with the Gallowegian lands of
Crossmichael and Troqueer. An ancient Caledonian
stone circle, ^ mile to the W of the abbey's site, com-
prises eleven of its original twelve large stones (the
'Twelve Apostles'), arranged in oval outline on a diameter
of 240 feet. It is situated near the lower termination
of an ancient oak grove, which seems to have extended
6 or 8 miles north-westward into Glencairn parish, and
which, being looked on as sacred by the ancients, has
bequeathed the name of Holywood to the parish.
Another stone circle, comprising nine large stones,
formerly lay on a small eminence within 200 yards of
the Nith, .less than a mile to the E of the extant circle,
but towards the end of last century was broken up and
removed for building material. At Fourmerkland is a
small tower, erected in 1590. Charles Irvine, who in
last century received from Government £5000 for dis-
covering the method of rendering salt water fresh, was
a native, as also was Aglionby Ross Carson, LL.D.
(1780-1850), for 25 years rector of Edinburgh High
School; and Bryce Johnstone, D.D. (1747-1805), who
■wrote a commentary on the Apocalypse, was minister of
the parish from 1771 till his death. Mansions, noticed
separately, are Broomrigg, Cowhill Tower, Dallawoodie,
Gribton, Newtonairds, and Portrack ; and 23 proprie-
tors hold each an annual value of more, 14 of less, than
£50. Holywood is in the presbytery and synod of Dum-
fries ; the living is worth £249. The church was built
274

HOPETOUN HOUSE

in 1779, has a plain square tower, and contains oSO
sittings. Three public schools — Holywood, Speddoch,
and Steilston — with respective accommodation for 171,

32, and 43 children, had (1881) an average attendance
of 106, 17, and 37, and grants of £86, 10s., £22, Is.,
and £39, 2s. Valuation (1860) £8662, (1883) £12,883,
12s. 8d. Pop. (1801) 809, (1831) 1066, (1861) 1115,
(1871) 1069, (1881) 1078.— Ord. Sur., sh. 9, 1863.

Home. See Hume.

Honeygreen, a village in the S of Forfarshire, 2 miles
NE of Dundee.

Honton, a village in the S of Pomona, Orkney, 8 miles
SW of Kirkwall.

Hoove, a village in Tingwall parish, Shetland, 8 miles
NNW of Lerwick.

Hope or Hopes Water. See Gifford Water.

Hope, a river of Durness jmrish, NW Sutherland,
formed by three principal head-streams at an altitude
of 94 feet, and flowing Q^ miles northward along Strath-
more to fresh-water Loch Hope (5| miles x 1 to 7 furl. ;
12 feet), whence issuing it continues If mile northward
till it falls into salt-water Loch Eriboll at a point 3
miles NE of Heilem inn. ' The drive along the side of
Loch Hope is very pretty, especially at the entrance to
Strathmore. On one side are bare hills, and, on the
other, every ledge and knoll is covered with beautiful
natural birchwood, above which rise the steep rugged
sides of Ben Hope ' (3040 feet). Hope Lodge, built of
timber and slate, forms a picturesque feature in the
landscape. Both lake and river are well-stocked with
sea-trout, grilse, salmon, and trout. — Orel. Sur., shs.
108, 114, 1880. See pp. 58-63 of Arch. Young's Suther-
land (Edinb. 1880).

Hopekirk. See Hobkirk.

Hopeman, a fishing village in Duffus parish, Elgin-
shire, 2f miles E by N of Burghead station, 6i W by S
of Lossiemouth, and 6| NW of Elgin. Founded in
1805, it rose into prosperity under the late proprietor,
Admiral Duff of Drummuir, who purchased the pro-
perty twenty-one years before his death in 1858 ; and it
now has a post office under Elgin, with money order
and savings' bank departments, a new and commodious
harbour (1865), 119 boats and 250 fisher men and boys,
a Free church (1854), and a public school. The har-
bour, completely sheltered, includes an outer and an
inner space, with an entrance from the former to the
latter, only 36 feet wide, at right angles to the coast.
It has 5 feet of water at ebb of spring tides at the
outer extremity of the pier, and 17^ feet of water at
the top of spring tides, in good berths along the pier;
and adjoins a sandy beach where vessels, if unable
to clear the entrance in a northerly gale, may lie with
little or no risk to either themselves or their cargo.
Fish of all kinds common in the Moray Firth are
found close to the entrance of the harbour ; and the
fishing-grounds frequented by the boats of the town are
only about 1 mile or less than 1 mile distant. Pop.
(1831) 445, (1861) 1070, (1871) 1226, (1881) 132-3.—
Ord. Sur., sh. 95, 1876.

Hope Park. See Edinburgh.

Hopes, an elegant modern mansion in Garvald parish,
S Haddingtonshire, on the right bank of Hopes or
Gifford Water, 9 miles SSE of Haddington. Held
for more than two centuries by the Hays of Hopes,
the estate has recently passed to their kinsman, the
Marquis of Tweeddale. See Yester. — Ord. Sur., sh.

33, 1863.

Hopetoun House, the seat of the Earl of Hopetoun,
in Abercorn parish, Linlithgowshire, near the southern
shore of the Firth of Forth, 3 miles W by N of South
Queensferry, and 12 WNW of Edinburgh. A stately
classical structure, it consists of a centre, erected in
1702 from designs by Sir William Bruce of Kinross, to
which many years after Robert Adam added N and S
wings, that, surmounted by octagonal dome-roofed
towers, are connected with the body of the house by
sweeping colonnades. The interior contains a library,
rich in illuminated MSS. and early specimens of print-
ing, and a fine collection of paintings, of which an

HOP-PRINGLE

HOUNDWOOD

'Ecce Homo' by Vau Dyck, his portrait of the Marchess
Spinola, a curious Teniers, and a hunting scene by Cuyp
were exhibited at London in the Okl Masters Collection
(1882-83). The N wing is occupied by extensive stables ;
and the spacious apartment (100 x 39 feet), which forms
t?ie S wing, and was formerly used as a family riding-
school, in Sept. 1881 was converted into a ball-room
on occasion of the coming-of-age of the present Earl.
Standing on a raised natural terrace, the house com-
mands a magnificent prospect up the Forth's basin to
Ben Lomond, and down the blue, widening Firth to
the Lsle of May. Its own grounds, too, are of singular
loveliness — 12 acres of garden, laid out like those of
Versailles, and a deer park and other policies, whose trees
are unrivalled for size and beauty. Chief among them
are a cedar of Lebanon (1748), an Abies miraTida (1836), a
tulip tree of Canada, the ' Dark Avenue ' of beeches, a
cluster of noble oaks, an avenue of fourteen ash trees,
three Spanish chestnuts, yews, larches, etc.* The
ancestor of the Hopetoun family was a cadet of the
Craigliall or Pinkie Hopes, Sir James Hope of Hope-
toun, Lanarkshire (1614-61), eminent as a lawyer and a
mineralogist. His son, John (1650-82), in 1678 pur-
chased the Linlithgowshire baronies of Abercorn and
NiDDRY ; and his grandson, Charles (1681-1742), in
1703 was created Earl of Hopetoun, Viscount Aithrie,
and Baron Hope, in the peerage of Scotland. In the
peerage of the United Kingdom the title of Baron Hope-
toun was conferred in 1809 on James, third Earl (1741-
1816), of Baron Niddry in 1814 on his half-brother. Sir
John Hope (1766-1823), the famous Peninsular general.
The latter, as fourth Earl, feasted George IV. at Hope-
toun House on 29 Aug. 1822, prior to the king's em-
barkation for England at Port Edgar. John Adrian
Louis Hope, present and seventh Earl (b. 1860 ; sue.
1873), is seventh in descent from Sir James, and holds
42,507 acres, valued at £43,960, 2s. per annum, viz.
11,870 acres in Linlithgowshire (£20,618, 10s.), 7967
in Haddingtonshire (£15,497, 15s.), 941 in Fife (£1717,
17s.), 19,180 in Lanarkshire (£5492), and 2549 in
Dumfriesshire (£634).— Ord Sur., sh. 32, 1867. See
Ormiston and Keith House, and John Small's Castles
and Mansions of the Lothians (Edinb. 1883).

Hop-Pringle, an old baronial fortalice in Stow parish,
Edinburghshire, on the right bank of Gala Water, oppo-
site Crookston, 1^ mile NNW of Fountainhall station.
It is now reduced to slender remains, yet shows evidence
of having been a strong and important place ; and it
commands an extensive view. It was the original seat
of the Hop-Pringle or Pringle family. — Ord. Sur., sh.
25, 1865.

Horndean, a village and an ancient parish of SE
Berwickshire. The village, standing within 5 furlongs of
the left bank of the river Tweed, 7^ miles NNE of Cold-
stream, and 2J N of Norham, is an ancient place, which
shared in important events connected with the wars of
the succession, and now has aU.P. church containing
450 sittings. The parish, at the time of the Reforma-
tion, was united with Upsetlington to form the parish
of Ladykirk.

Horsbnigh, a shattered peel-tower in Innerleithen
parish, Peeblesshire, near the left bank of the Tweed, 2 J
miles E by S of Peebles. From at least the beginning
of the 13th century till 1617 it was the castle of the
Horsbrughs of Horsbrugh.

Horse Island, a grassy islet in Ardrossan parish, Ayr-
shire, 5 furlongsNWof Ardrossan harbour. Measuring
2| furlongs by 1, and nowhere rising higher than 13 feet
above sea-level, it affords some shelter to Ardi'ossan
harbour, and is the site of a beacon tower. — Ord. Sur.,
sh. 21, 1870.

Hoscote, a modern mansion in the Selkirkshire por-
tion of Ptoberton parish, near the left bank of Borthwick
Water, 8;^ miles WSW of Hawick. Its owner, Archibald
Stavert, Esq. (b. 1828 ; sue. 1857), holds 2139 acres in
Selkirk and Roxburgh shires, valued at £1400 per annum.
—Ord. Sur., sh. 17, 1864.

* The height and girth of these and other trees are given in the
Scotsman (7 Oct. 18s0)and in Trans. Hvjhl. andAg. Soc. (1879-81).

Hospitalfield, an estate, with a modern mansion, in
the detached section of St Vigeans parish, Forfarshire,
IJ mile SW of Arbroath. Its owner, Patrick Allan-
Fraser (sue. 1873), holds 1045 acres in Forfarshire and
2722 in Perthshire, valued at £1891 and £1538 per
annum. — Ord. Sur., sh. 49, 1865.

Hospitalmill, a village in Cults parish, Fife, on the
river Eden, near the Edinburgh and Dundee railway, 1;^
mile NE of Pitlessie.

Hoswick, a village in Dunrossness parish, Shetland,
2 miles distant from Sandwick.

Houl and Houland, two villages in Tingwall parish,
Shetland. Their post-town is Scalloway, under Ler"\vick.

Houna or Huna, a hamlet in Canisbay parish, Caith-
ness, adjacent to Houna Ness on the Pentland Firth, 3
miles W of Duncansbay Head, and 16^ N of Wick. It
has a post office under Wick and an inn, and is the
ferry station to Orkney.

Hounam, a Border village and parish of E Roxburgh-
shire. The village stands on the right bank of Kale
Water, at the base of gentle rising-grounds, 4;^ miles S
by E of Morebattle, 9 E of Jedburgh station, and 11
SSE of the post-town, Kelso.

The parish is bounded N and NE by Morebattle, SE
by Northumberland, S, SW, and W by Oxnam, and
NW by Jedburgh and Eckford. Its utmost length,
from N to S, is 7 miles ; its utmost breadth is 5^ miles;
and its area is 15,107^ acres, of which 33 J are water.
Kale Water here winds 8| miles north-by-eastward —
first 1 mile along the boundary with Oxnam, next 5|
miles through the interior, then If mile on or close to
the Morebattle border ; and here it is joined by half a
dozen burns. Along it, in the extreme N, the surface
sinks to 390 feet above sea-level, thence rising to 1472
feet at conical Hounam Law, 1046 at Chesterhouse Hill,
1117 at Windy Law, 1152 at Chatto Hill, 1289 at White-
stone Hill, 1844 at *Beefstand Hill, 1676 at *Lamb
Hill, 1573 at ^Blackball Hill, and 1388 at Woden Hill,
where asterisks mark those summits of the Cheviot
watershed that culminate right on the English border.
Round verdant hills these, that give the parish a
diversified aspect of waving elevations, intersected with
numerous deep narrow dells and charming romantic
vales. The north-western border is comparatively low
and level ; yet even it is interspersed with several rising-
grounds. The rocks are chiefly porphyritic, and con-
tain jaspers, agates, grey amethysts, and rock crystals.
The soil in the bottom of the vales is mostly either
alluvium or light sandy loam ; on the lower hills is
chiefly a sandy gravel ; and on parts of the higher hills
is moorish or mossy. Most of the land serves only for
pasture, maintaining large flocks of Cheviot sheep.
Less than one-eighteenth of the entire area is in tillage
or in meadow ; whilst rather more than 100 acres is
under wood. Ancient Caledonian standing stones are
numerous ; cairns or barrows are in several places ; the
Roman road called Watling Street forms for 4 miles the
western boundary, and adjoins there vestiges of .several
camps and semicircular entrenchments ; a large well-
preserved Roman camp is on Hounam Law ; traces of a
very extensive fortification, called the Rings, are on the
farm of Hounam Mains ; eminences of the kind called
moats are in two places ; and ruins of Border peels are
at Chester House and Heatherlands. Greexhill is the
only mansion ; and 5 proprietors hold each an annual
value of more, 3 of less, than £500. Hounam is in the
presbytery of Jedburgh and synod of Merse and Teviot-
dale ; the living is worth £327. The church at the
village, repaired in 1844, contains 180 sittings ; and a
public school, with accommodation for 43 children, had
(1881) an average attendance of 43, and a grant of
£53, 10s. Valuation (1860) £6908, (1882) £8667, 4s. 8d.
Pop. (1801) 372, (1831) 260, (1861) 289, (1871) 238,
(1881) 263.— Orc^. Sur., shs. 18, 17, 1863-64.

Houndslow, a village in Westruther parish, Berwick-
shire, 7 miles E of Lauder.

Houndwood, a hamlet and a quoad sacra parish in
the W of Coldingham parish, Berwickshire. The
hamlet lies on the left bank of Eye Water, adjacent to

275

HOURN

the North British railway, 3 miles WNW of Reston
station, and 3 ESE of Grant's House station, its post-
town It consists of the quoad sacra parish church
(1S36 ; 500 sittings), a Free church (370 sittings), and
a few detached houses, scattered over a length of about
i mile. The quoad sacra parish, comprising about one-
half of Coldingham, was constituted by ecclesiastical
authority in 1836, by civil authority in 1851 ; contains
the mansions of Houndwood House, Newmams, Berry-
bank, Sunnyside, Coveyheugh, Stoneshiel, Fairiaw
House, and Kenton House ; has vestiges of two or more
old towers, one of them a hunting-seat of the priors of
Coldingham ; and is in the presbytery of Chiruside and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale. The stipend is £120.
Three public schools— Auchincraw, Renton, and Reston

-n-ith respective accommodation for 104, 103, and 110

children, had (1881) an average attendance of 43, 76,
and 83, and grants of £38, 12s., £72, 15s., and £71,
Is. 6d. Pop. of q. s. parish (1871) 1517, (1881) 1516.—
Ord. Sur., sh. 34, 1864.

Hourn, a sea-loch in Glenelg parish, Inverness-shire,
dividing Glenelg proper from Knoydart. Opening from
Sleat Sound, at a point 6 miles SW of Glenelg village,
and i^enetrating 14 miles east-south-eastward, it makes
three successive sweeps in three different directions, and
contracts somewhat regularly from a width of 3f miles at
the entrance to a width of only IJ furlong at the head.
'The situation of this estuary is one of great natiu'al
grandeur, and the high walls of mountain that overhang
it may well have given the idea of gloom and liorror
conveyed in its singular name — the "Lake of Hell."
The glen itself is a deep and cavernous cleft, the loch
beginning as a narrow channel, with walls of precipice
on either side, often just redeemed from utter harshness
by the pines which keep a precarious footing wherever
they can. . . . Point after point, precipice after preci-
pice, stands out each a mailed head with its dark plume
waving over it.'— Ord. Sur., shs. 72, 71, 1880-83. See
Glenelg, Knoydakt, Bex Sceial, Coreyvaeligan,
and p. 520 of an article by Captain Thomas P. White in
Good Words for 1874.

Housay. See HousiE.

House or East Burra, an island in Bressay parish,
Shetland, lying between Burra and the W coast of the
Mainland, and separated from the latter by Cliff's Sound.
It commences 8| miles SW of Lerwick, extends 5 miles
south-south-westward, and has mostly a breadth of from
i to 1 mile. Its coast is rocky ; its interior is mostly a
hilly ridge, and its W side, at one part, approaches so
near Burra as to be connected with it by a rude timber
bridge. Pop. (1S61) 209, (1871) 239, (1881) 215.

HouseMll, an estate, with a mansion, in Nairn parish,
Nairnshire, 1^ mile S by E of the town.

HouseMll, an estate, with a modern mansion and a
village, in the E of Abbey parish, Renfrewshire, on the
right bank of Levern AVater, 24 miles NE of Barrhead.
It contains an iron-work, a brick-work, coal mines,
and an extensive quarry ; and was sold in 1871 for
£40,000. The village, called Househill Muir, has
Hurlet for its post-town, under Glasgow. — Ord. Sur.,
sh. 30, 1866.

Housie Skerries, a group of islets in Nesting parish,
Shetland, 94 miles E of Mainland and 24 NE of Ler-
wick. They comprise Housie proper in the centre,
Grunay and Bruray in the E, Mickle Skerry in the AVNAV,
and a number of islets and skerries immediately W of
Housie proper ; and they are often called the Out
Skerries. The three chief form a triangular group at
the distance of only a few hundred yards from one
another ; each is somewhat more than a mile long ; all
are widely secluded ; and they are the scene of extensive
fisheries for ling. Pop. (1841) 122, (1861) 60, (1871)
71. (1881)71.

House of Muir, a common in Glencorse parish, Edin-
burghshire, on the eastern slope of the Pentlands, 3
miles N by W of Penicuik and 8| S of Edinburgh. A
weekly market for live stock, frequented by the Edin-
burgh butchers, was for some time held here ; and a
great annual market for sheep, held from time imme-
276

HOUSTON

morial on the first and second Mondays of April, has
fallen into almost total desuetude.

Houston, a village and a parish of central Renfrew -
shire. The village stands 130 feet above sea-level ou
Houston Burn, If mile NNW of Houston or Crosslee
station on the Bridge of Weir section of the Glasgow
and South- Western, 3| miles W by S of Houston
station on the Glasgow and Greenock section of the
Caledonian, 3 NNW of Johnstone, and 6 WNW of
Paisley. An older village, now extinct, stood a little
lower down the burn ; and the present place, founded on
a regular plan in 1781, consists chiefly of two streets on
the two sides of the burn, and presents a neat appear-
ance, with slated two-story houses. It has a post office
under Johnstone, and a fair on the second Tuesday of
May. Pop. (1841) 623, (1861) 858, (1871) 518, (1881)
553.

The parish, containing also the village of Crosslee
and part of Bridge of Weir, comprises the ancient
parishes of Houston and Killallan, which inconveniently
intersected each other, and were united in 1760. It is
bounded N and NE by Erskine, SE and S by Kil-
barchan, and W by Kilmalcolm. Its utmost length,
from E to AV, is 5^ miles ; its utmost breadth is 3j
miles ; and its area is 7644 acres, of which 59| are
water. Gryfe AVater winds 7^ miles eastward along
all the southern and south-western boundary ; its
affluent, Dargavel Burn, flows 6§ miles east-south-
eastward along all the northern and north-eastern
boundary ; and the interior is drained to the Gryfe
by Houston and Barochau Burns. In the extreme E,
at the Dargavel's influx to the Gryfe, the surface de-
clines to 20 feet above sea-level ; and the eastern and
south-eastern districts are low and almost flat, but the
north-western rises graduall}'^, till near AA^est Glen
it attains a summit altitude of 623 feet. Carboni-
ferous rocks prevail in the lower districts, eruptive
rocks in the higher ; and the former include sand-
stone, limestone, and coal. The soil of the low flat
grounds is partly clay and partly loam ; of the higher
is thin, dry, and in places heathy. Moss to the extent
of 300 acres formerly lay dispersed through portions
of the eastern district, but has in great degi-ee been
reclaimed and brought under the plough, notably in
the case of Fulwood Moss (1879-80). Barochan
Moss, however, of great depth and considerable extent,
is still a marked feature. The barony of Houston,
anciently called Kilpcter, from a church on it dedi-
cated to St Peter, in the middle of the 12th century
passed from Baldwin of Biggar, sheriff of Lanark, to
Hugh of Padvinan, and took from him the name of
'Hugh's-town,' corrupted into 'Houston,' and gave that
name to his descendants. They retained the barony
till 1740, between which date and 1782 it went by sale
or inheritance to five different proprietors, eventually
being purchased by Alexander Speirs of Elderslie.
Houston House was a large, quadrangular, castellated
pile, with a high tower at the NW corner, and with an
arched entrance and two turrets on the S front ; stood
on an eminence surrounded by gardens and woods ;
and, excepting the E side, was taken down in 1780 to
furnish building material for the new village. An
ancient cross, supposed to have been erected by the
knights of Houston, has a graduated pedestal, an octa-
gonal pillar 9 feet high, and a surmounting dial and
globe. Mansions, noticed separately, are Barochan
House and Gryfe Castle ; and 4 proprietors hold each an
annual value of £500 and upwards, 4 of between £100
and £500, 4 of from £50 to £100, and 15 of from £20
to £50. Houston is in the j^resbytery of Paisley and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; the living is worth £400.
The parish church was built in 1874-75, at a cost of
over £3000, by Mrs Ellice of Invergarry as a memorial to
her son. Captain Archibald Alexander Speirs (1840-69),
M.P. for Renfrewshire. It is an Early Gothic edifice,
with 600 sittings and a square tower 70 feet high ; and
in 1876 it was adorned with seven stained-glass win-
dows. At its E end a new mortuary has been erected,
containing an interesting 15th century monument of

HOUSTOUN HOUSE

the Houston family ; and 2 miles to the NW the ruin
is still standing of Killallan or St Fillan's church.
Other places of worship are Houston Free church and
Houston Roman Catholic church, St Fillan's (1841 ; 300
sittings). Freeland public, North Houston public,
South Houston public, and a Roman Catholic school,
with respective accommodation for 245, 140, 143, and
103 children, had (18S1) an average attendance of 97,
81, 95, and 50, and grants of £90, 7s., £80, 7s. 6d.,
£76, 13s., and £28, Is. 7d. Valuation (1860) £12,330,
(1883) £15,885, lis. lOd. Pop. (ISOl) 1891, (1841)
2818,(1861)2490, (1871)2167, {ISSl) 2191.— Ord. Sur..
sh. 30, 1866.

HoustQim House, a mansion in Uphall parish, Lin-
lithgowshire, 1 mile NW of Uphall station on the
Bathgate section of the North British railwaj-, and 5
furlongs WSAV of Uphall village. An old Scottish
mansion house, of considerable height, with crow-
stepped gables, and with well laid-out grounds, it was
founded in the latter half of the 16th century by Sir
John Shairp, Knight, an eminent lawyer and Queen
Marv's advocate. Among his descendants have been
Norman Shairp (1779-1864), ilajor H. E. I. C. S. ; his
eldest son, Thomas (b. 1814), who holds 567 acres in
the shire, valued at £840 per annum ; and his younger
son, John Campbell, LL.D. (b. 1819), principal of St
Salvator's College, St Andrews. — Orel. Sur., sh. 32,
1857. See John Small's Castles and Mansions of the
LotMans (Edinb. 1883).

Houton, a headland, a bay, and a small island, in
Orphir parish, Orkney, at the south-western extremity
of Pomona, 5 miles SE of Stromness. The headland
rises to the height of 300 feet above sea-level, and
is pierced, at the height of 90 feet, by a cave 14 feet
long. The bay, adjoining the E side of the headland,
forms a good natural harbour, and can be entered bj*
ships at low water. The island lies across the mouth
of the bay, and shelters it; but is not quite \ mile long,
and is entirely pastoral.

Howdens-Hall, a hamlet in Liberton parish, Edin-
burghshire, 3 miles S by E of Edinburgh.

Howe, a hamlet in Wick parish, Caithness, 9 miles
NNW of Wick town, and 5 WNW of Keiss.

Howe, a hamlet in Colvend parish, SE Kirkcudbright-
shire, 6f miles SE of Dalbeattie.

Howford, a village in Nairn parish, Nairnshire, li
mile S by W of the station.

Howgate, a village in Penicuik parish, Edinburgh-
shire, If mile SSE of Penicuik town and 11 miles S of
Edinburgh. It has a U. P. church, rebuilt in 1855, a
public school, and copious waterworks, opened in May
1872. From Howgate, be it remembered, came 'Rab'
and his two best friends. — Ord,. Sur., sh. 32, 1857.

Howgill, a village in Annan parish, Dumfriesshire, 7
furlongs E by S of the town.

Howmore, a village and a registration district in the
N of South Uist parish, Outer Hebrides, Inverness-
shire. The village stands on the W coast of South
Uist island, 7 miles S of the north-western extremity
of that island, and 36 SSW of Lochmaddy, under which
it has a post and telegraph office. The registration dis-
trict is the central one of three districts into which
South Uist parish is divided.

Howwood. See Hollow-Wood.

Hoxa, a peninsular headland on the W side of South
Ronaldshay island, Orkney, projecting If mile west-
south-westward, and terminating 1^ mile E of Flotta
island. A flagstone quarry here yields slabs from 6 to
8 feet in diameter.

Hoy, the largest, except Pomona, of the Orkney
islands, lying at the SW of the group. It is separated
from the Stromness district of Pomona by Hoy Sound,
which, with a varying width of 1^ and 5^ miles, con-
tains midway the island of Graemsay ; from Burray and
South Ronaldshay islands byScapa Flow, 5J to 11 miles
broad ; and from Caithness by the Pentland Firth, which
here has a minimiuu width of 6f miles. Its utmost
length, from NNW to SSE, is 13^ miles ; its breadth
varies between 3 furlongs and 6^ miles ; and its area,

HOY

inclusive of Graemsay, Flotta, and Pharay islands, is
61f square miles or 39,510 acres, of which 15,183
acres belong to Hoy and Graemsay parish and 24,327
to Walls and Flotta parish. Near its S end it is
all but dissevered by an arm of the sea, the Long Hope,
which, striking b\ miles west-south-westward, and vary-
ing in width between \ and 1§ mile, forms one of the
finest natural harbours in the world. During the French
war it was no uncommon thing for a fleet of upwards of
a hundred large vessels to be lying wind-bound in this
harbour ; and a fine sight it was to see them spread
their canvas to the breeze, and move majestically along
the shores of the island. The district around the Long
Hope is principally a fine plain, in a state of good culti-
vation ; but the parts to the N, constituting the main
body of the island, are almost wholly occupied by three
large hills, ranged in the form of a triangle, of which
that to the NE, called the Wardhill of''Hoy, is the
largest, rising from a plain, with a broad base, to the
height of 1555 feet above the level of the sea. Except
along the N shores, which are bordered with a loamy
soil and a rich verdure, the soil is composed of peat and
clay, the former commonly predominating. The ground
destined for the production of grain, and that appro-
priated for feeding cattle, bear but a very small propor-
tion to what is covered with heath and allotted for
sheep-walks. The to^vnship of Rackwick, 3^ miles from
the N end of the island, is beautifully situated in the
extremity of a valley to which it gives name, being
closed in on two sides by very lofty precipices of sand-
stone, but opening with a fine bay towards the western
entrance of the Pentland Firth, so that every vessel
which passes must necessarily come into view. All the
extent of coast which faces the Atlantic, from the south-
western extremity of the island, but especiall}^ from
ilelsetter in the vicinity of the head of tlie Long Hope,
all the way N, past Rackwick, on to the very entrance of
Hoy Sound, is a series of stupendous rock-scenery, occa-
sionally exceeding 1160 feet in height, — sometimes per-
pendicular and smooth, — in other places rent, shivered,
and broken down in huge fragments, — occasionally
overhanging the deep, and frowning on the stormy
surges of the Atlantic. And, at one place, a vast in-
sulated rock, called the Old Man of Hoy, and shaped
like an immense pillar, with arches beneath, stands so
well apart from the adjacent cliffs as to be a conspicuous
object even from points of view in Caithness, and has
obtained its name from being fancied to present a rough
outline of similitude to the human form. This ' gigantic
column, rising 600 feet above the sea, gives evidence of
the sculpturing force of the northern waves ; and its
materials record three episodes in a far-off past, for the
column itself is a mass of yellow and red sandstone
belonging to the upper part of the Old Red series, whilst
the plinth is a fragment of a lava stream, and rests on
a foundation of Caithness flag. Once a portion of the
solid clifi", the Old Man has been hewn out from it
during the interval that has elapsed since the last lin-
gering glacier melted away from the upland valleys of
Hoy.' The island generally is the most interesting dis-
trict of Orkney to the geologist, the botanist, or the
ornithologist ; and well deserves the attention of any
naturalist who may have an opportunity of leisurely
examining it at diflerent seasons of the year. It is the
Highlands of Orkney, scarcely second to many parts of
the Highlands of the mainland in various attractions,
and combining these with interesting features of vale
and sea-beach. Some of its cliff's are of sandstone, inter-
sected by amygdaloid and other kinds of trap ; whUe
the parts inland consist of sandstone, clay slate, and
calcareous strata. Grouse are abundant, and hawks
common ; a beautiful, bold, large kind of falcon may
now and then be seen ; and several kinds of eagles build
their epies on the cliff's. The soil of the arable lands
is mostly light, wet, and spongy, better for grass than
grain. ' Walls is the best part of the island, and exten-
sive improvements were carried out some years ago at ilel-
setter by a former proprietor, and a large flock of Cheviot
sheep was introduced, which succeeded well ; but little

277

HOY SOUND

or nothing has been done for the other parts of Hoy.
If surface^drained, the mountain range in the island
would suit black-faced sheep ' ( 2'rans. Highl. and Ag.
Soc, 1874, p. 59). A chief antiquity, the Dwarfie
Stone, and the lighthouses of Caxdick and Graemsay,
are noticed separately. There is a post office of Long-
hope, under Stromness, with money order, savings'
bank, and telegraph departments. Near it is Melsetter,
one of two mansions in this island — the other being
Hoy Lodge — belonging to John George Moodie Heddle,
Esq. (b. 1844; sue. 1869), who holds 50,410 acres, valued
at £3527 per annum. Li the presbytery of Cairston
and sjTiod of Orkney, the island is divided politically
and ecclesiastically between the parishes of Hoy and
Graemsay and Walls and Flotta, the former a living
worth £170, the latter £200. Hoy church, built about
1780, contains 182 sittings ; Walls church, built in
1832, contains 500. Other places of worship are North
Walls Established mission church and Walls Free church
(1877). The five public schools of Hoy, Rackwick,
Brims, South Walls, and Flotta, and North Walls
General Assembly school, with total accommodation for
374 children, had (1881) an average attendance of 215,
and grants amounting to £253, 15s. Id. Valuation
(1881) of Hoy and Graemsay, £868 ; of Walls and
Flotta, £2486. Pop. of Hoy and Graemsay (1801) 244,
(1831) 546, (1861) 556, (1871) 581, (1881) 603 ; of Walls
and Flotta (1801) 993, (1831) 1436, (1861) 1674, (1871)
1530, (1881) 1506 ; of Hoy island (1841) 1486, (1851)
1565, (1861) 1535, (1871) 1385, (1881) 1380. See Hugh
Miller's Cruise of the Betsy (1858), and Arch. Geikie's
Geological Sketches at Home and Abroad (1882).

Hoy Sound. See Graemsay and Hoy.

HuUerhurst, an estate, with a mansion, in Stevenston
parish, Ayrshire, 1^ mile N of the toAvn.

Humble, a parish in the south-western extremity of
Haddingtonshire. It consists of a main body and a
small detached section, and it comprehends the ancient
parishes of Keith and Humbie, called at the end of the
I7th century Keith-Symmars and Keith-Hundeby. The
main body is bounded NW by Ormiston, NE by Salton
and Bolton, E by Yester, SE by Channelkirk in Ber-
wickshire, SW by Soutra, and W by Fala in Edinburgh-
shire ; and it contains the post office of Upper Keith,
2 miles NE of Blackshiels. The detached section,
lying f mile SW of the western boundary of the main
body, is entirely surrounded by Edinburghshire ; and
contains Blackshiels post office, with money order,
savings' bank, and telegraph departments, 3^ miles
ENE of Tynehead station. The main body has an ut-
most length from NNW to SSE of 5J miles, an utmost
breadth from E to W of 4^ miles, and an area of 8797^
acres ; whilst the detached section, measuring If mile
by 7 furlongs in extreme length and breadth, is 518^
acres in area. The drainage is carried northward to the
Tyne by Keith, Humbie, and Birns Waters ; and the
surface, declining to 370 feet above sea-level in the
extreme N, thence rises southward to the Lammermuirs,
attaining 600 feet near Humbie House, 616 near Upper
Keith, 1158 near Blegbie, and 1431 at the south-eastern
border. The southern district, as part of the Lammer-
muirs, approaching within f mile of Lammer Law (1733
feet) in Yester parish, is mostly heath or upland pas-
ture ; but the central and northern districts, compara-
tively low and level, share the general character of the
great plain of Haddington, and contain a great aggregate
of park and wood. One stretch of forest, bearing the
name of Humbie and Salton Wood, begins near the
parish church, and extends 1^ mile northward to the
northern boundary, and ^ mile further into Salton
jjarish. Silurian rocks predominate in the uplands,
and rocks of the Carboniferous formation extend be-
neath the plain. Traces are found of iron ore and
coal. The soil on the uplands is much of it mossy ;
in the eastern parts of the low grounds, is a fine light
gravel, well adapted to the turnip husbandry ; and in
the northern parts, is variously rich clay, loam, and
light gravel. Faint vestiges of a Roman castellum are
on Whitburgh estate, and in front of Keith House are
278

HUME

remains of a pre-Reformation chapel. Humbie House,
34 miles NE of Blackshiels, is a seat of Lord Polwarth,
his grandfather early in the present century having
succeeded the Hepburnes in this estate, as great-grand-
son of Helen Hepburne, Countess of Tarras. (See
Harden.) Keith House and Whitburgh are noticed
separately ; and the chief proprietors are the Earl of
Hopetoun and Lord Polwarth, the rest of the parish
being divided into small estates, each of a single
farm. Humbie is in the presbytery of Haddington and
synod of Lothian and Tweeddale ; the living is worth
£406. The parish church, 6| miles NE of Tynehead
station, was Ijuilt in 1800, and contains 400 sittings.
There is also a Free church ; and three schools — Cross-
roads public, Humbie public, and Leaston Christian
Knowledge Society's — with respective accommodation
for 128, 102, and 53 children, had (1881) an average
attendance of 73, 37, and 29, and gi-ants of £63, 14s.
6d., £26, 12s., and £21, 7s. 6d. Valuation (I860)
£9247, (1879) £11,823, lis., (1883) £10,141, 10s.
Pop. (1801) 785, (1831) 875, (1861) 997, (1871) 967,
(1881) 907.— Ord. Sicr., sh. 33, 1863.

Hume or Home, a post-office village and a parish of S
Berwickshire. The village, standing 680 feet above
sea-level, 3 miles S by W of Greenlaw, and 5J N by W
of Kelso, was once a considerable town, teeming with
the retinue and the dependants of one of the most
powerful baronial families of a former age, but it has
l^assed into decadence and decay, so as to be now a
mere hamlet. Home Castle crowns a rocky eminence
hard by, and figures like a beacon-tower over all the
Merse, forming a picturesque feature in a Avide and
luxuriant landscape. As founded in the 13th century,
it must have been a lofty and imposing structure ; and,
ever growing larger and stronger as the lords of Home
grew richer and mightier, it served at once to over-
awe and to defend the surrounding country. Prior,
indeed, to the general use of artillery,* it was deemed
to be almost impregnable ; but in 1547 the Protector
Somerset captured it, after a stout resistance by Lady
Home, whose husband, the fourth Lord Home, had
fallen in a skirmish the day before the battle of Pinkie.
He placed in it an English garrison, who in 1549 were
surprised and slain by young Lord Home. Again, in
1569, the Earl of Sussex, 'being at AVark, accompanied
with the whole bands of footmen and a thousand horse,
with three battery-pieces and two sacris, went to the
siege of Home, where he planted his battery ; where,
within twelve hours after the battery was planted, the
castle was surrendered to him, simply having within
it 240 soldiers. So the soldiers departed out of it in
their hose and doublets.' And lastly, in 1650, im-
mediately after the capture of Edinburgh Castle, Crom-
well despatched Colonel Fenwick at the head of two
regiments to seize the Earl's castle of Home. In
answer to a peremptory summons to surrender, sent
him by the Colonel at the head of his troops, Cock-
burn, the governor of the castle, returned two missives,
which have been preserved as specimens of the frolick-
ing humour that now and then bubbles up in the
tragedy of war. The first ran : ' Right Honourable, I
have received a trumpeter of 5^ours, as he tells me,
without a pass, to surrender Home Castle to the Lord
General Cromwell. Please you, I never saw your
general. As for Home Castle, it stands upon a rock.
Given at Home Castle, this day, before 7 o'clock. So
restcth, without prejudice to my native country, your
most humble servant, T. Cockbukn. ' The second was
expressed in doggerel lines, which still are quoted by
the peasantry, often in profound ignorance of the occa-
sion when they were com2)osed : —

' I, Willie Wastle,

Stand firm in my castle ;

And a' the dogs o' your town

Will no pull Willie Wastle down.'

Home Castle, however, when it felt the pressure of
* It may here be noted that, according to tradition, James II. 's
queen, Jlary of Gueldres, was lodging at Home Castle, when the
King met his death by the bursting of a cannon at the siege of the
castle of Ro.\burgh, 3 Aug. 1460.

HUNA

Colonel Fenwick's cannon, and saw liis men about to
rush to the attack, very readily surrendered to his
power, and received within its walls the soldiery of
Cromwell. Early in the 13th centmy William, a grand-
son of the third Earl of Dunbar, acquired the lands of
Home by marriage with his cousin Ada ; and his eighth
descendant, Sir Alexander Home, in 1473 was raised to
the peerage as Baron Home, whilst his twelfth in 1605
was created Earl of Home and Baron Dunglass. (See
BoTHWELL, Douglas Castle, and Hiusel. ) In the
early part of the 18th century Home Castle and the
domains around it passed into the possession of the
Earls of Marchmont, a branch of the Homes who for a
time were wealthier and more influential than the main
stock, but whose title expired with the third Earl in
1794. The castle in his time was almost level with the
ground, but was by him rudely restored from its own
materials, high battlemented walls being re-erected on
the old foundations. It is only a ' sham antique ; '
but, seen from a distance, it still appears, on its far-
seeing elevation, to frown over all the Merse and much
of Roxburghshire. The present proprietor is Sir Hugh
Hume-Campbell of Marchmont, Bart. , great-grandson
of the second Earl of Marchmont.

The parish is bounded NW by Gordon, NE by Green-
law, E by Eccles, S by Stitchell in Roxburghshire, SW
by Nenthorn, and W by Earlston. Its utmost length,
from E by N to W by S, is 4| miles ; its breadth varies
between 14 and 2^ miles ; and its area is 4103 acres, of
which 3| are water, and 39^ lie detached within Earl-
ston. Eden AVater flows J mile southward along the
western boundary ; and Lambden Burn rises in and
traverses the soutliern interior, on its easterly course to
the Leet. Where it passes off into Eccles, the surface
declines to 380 feet above sea-level, thence rising to 700
at Hume Craigs, 538 at Fallsidehill, 709 at Stenmuir,
and 654 at North Blinkbonny. A rising-ground called
Lurgie Craigs, on the south-western border, is faced
with a fine basaltic colonnade, whose erect, regular,
polygonal columns are 5 or 6 feet high and 16 inches
thick. The soil, in most places clayey and strong, in
some was naturally wet and cold, but nearly everywhere
has been greatly improved, and brought into a state of
high cultivation. The property is divided among three.
The original parish, whose church was dedicated to St
Nicholas, was four times the size of the present one,
and comprehended much of the lands now included in
Gordon and Westruther. In the first half of the 12th
century the second Earl of Dunbar conferred it on Kelso
Abbey, whose monks placed large portions of it under
other parochial arrangement. The curtailed parish was
annexed in 1640 to the contiguous Roxburghshire parish
of Stitchell. A public school, with accommodation
for 96 children, had (1881) an average attendance of 67,
and a grant of £44, Is. 3d. Valuation (1864) £5000,
7s. 6d., (1882) £6213, Is. 9d. Pop. (1841) 385, (1861)
420, (1871) 460, {1881) 407.— Ord. Sur., sh. 25, 1865.

Huna. See Houna.

Hundalee Cottage, a modern mansion in Jedburgh
parish, Roxburghshire, on the steep left bank of the
river Jed, 1 J mile S by W of Jedburgh town. A strong
ancient peel tower of the Rutherfurds, destroyed in last
century, stood on the estate of Hundalee ; and Hundalee
Cave, on the bank of the Jed, disappeared through a
landslip in March 1881.

Hungladder, a village in the NW of the Isle of Skye,
Inverness - shire. Its post-town is Kilmuir, under
Portree.

Hunterfield, a village in Cockpen and Newbattle
parishes, Edinburghshire, adjoining Arniston Colliery
village, 5 furlongs NNW of Gorebridge. Pop. (1871)
487, (1881) 766, of whom 612 were in Cockpen and 154
in Newbattle.— Ord Sur., sh. 32, 1857.

Hunter's Bay. See Rigg Bay.

Hunter's Quay. See Dunoon.

Hunterston, a handsome mansion, built early in the
present century, in West Kilbride parish, N Ayrshire,
within 3 furlongs of the Firth of Clyde and 2^ miles
NNW of West Kilbride village. It is the seat of Lieut. -

HUNTLY

Col. Gould Hunter-Weston, son-in-law of Robert Hunter,
Esq. of Hunterston (1800-80), who owned 881 acres in
the shire, valued at £1874 per annum, and whose ances-
tors held this estate as far back as the first half of the
13th century. Their castle, a small square tower, stands
not far distant from the present manor house, in which
is preserved a large and splendid ancient silver brooch,
richly adorned with gold filigree work, and bearing a
Runic inscription. Supposed to have been lost by a
Norseman at the time of the Battle of Largs (1263), it
was found on the estate in 1826, and is finely reproduced
in the Archccological Collections relating to the Counties
of Ayr and IFiytown (Edinh. 1878).

Huntfield, an estate, with a mansion, in Libberton
parish, Lanarksliire, 4 miles NW of Biggar.

Hunthill, an estate, with a modern mansion, in Jed-
burgh parish, Roxburghshire, 2 miles SE of the town.
An old peel tower was on it, but has disappeared.

Huntington House, a mansion in Haddington parish,
Haddingtonshire, 2^ miles WNW of the town.

Huntingtower, a village and an ancient castle in
Tibbermore parish, Perthshire. The village stands
near Almondbank station on the Perth, Methven, and
Crieff section of the Caledonian, 3 miles WNW of Perth,
under which it has a post office. It adjoins the village
of Ruthvenfield, and since 1774 has been the seat of an
extensive bleachfleld. The works are supplied with
water through an artificial canal of such antiquity as to
rank amongst the earliest extant appliances of industry
in the kingdom. The canal is mentioned in a charter
of Alexander II. as his mill-lead ; and in 1244 a pipe's
supply from it was granted to the Blackfriars' monastery
in Perth. Opening from the river Almond, and approach-
ing Huntingtower through a meadow, it measures 3 feet
in depth, nearly 18 feet in breadth, and 4^ miles in
length. Pop. of the conjoint villages of Huntingtower
and Ruthvenfield (1871) 446, (1881) 458.

In the reign of William the Lyon (1165-1214) the
manors of Ruthven and Tibbermore were possessed by
one Swan, whose descendant, Sir William de Ruthven,
was raised to the peerage as Lord Ruthven in 1488.
Patrick, the grim third Lord (1520-66), was the principal
actor in Rizzio's murder ; his second sou and successor,
William, in 1581 was created Earl of Gowrie. At
Ruthven Castle, exactly a twelvemonth later, he kid-
napped the boy-king, James VI. — an affair that, famous
as the ' Raid of Ruthven,' brought his head to the block
in 1584. The Gowrie Conspiracy (1600), whose story
belongs to Perth, cost the life of his son, the third Earl ;
and from his forfeiture down to early in the present
century the castle and barony belonged to successively
the TuUibardine and the Athole Murrays. Their present
proprietor, William Lindsay Mercer, Esq. (b. 1858 ; sue.
1871), owns 465 acres in the shire, valued at £1360
per annum. Ruthven or Huntingtower Castle consists
still of two strong, heavy, square towers, battlemented
and turreted, which, built at different times, and
originally 9J feet distant from one another, were after-
wards united by a somewhat lower range of intermediate
building. The space between the towers, from battle-
ment to battlement, at a height of 60 feet from the
ground, is known as the Maiden's Leap, it having,
according to Pennant, been leapt one night by the first
Earl's youngest daughter, whose mother had all but
surprised her with her lover. — Ord. Sur., sh. 48, 1868.
See Perthshire Illustrated (1844).

Huntly, a quondam hamlet in Gordon parish, SW
Berwickshire, 4^ miles NE of Earlston. It stood on
the estate of the ancestors of the ducal family of Gordon,
and on their removal to the north, gave name to the
town of Huntly in Aberdeenshire.

Huntly, a town and a parish in Strathbogie district,
NW Aberdeenshire. The town, standing 408 feet above
sea-level on the peninsula at the confluence of tho
rivers Bogie and Deveron, has a station on the Great
North of Scotland railway, 12^ miles SE of Keith, 8
SSE of Grange Junction, and 40S NW of Aberdeen.
By a charter of 1545 to the fourth Earl of Huntly, it
ranks as a bursrh of barony under the Duke of Richmond

279

HUNTLY

and Gordon ; and it owes much as a seat of trade and
population to the vicinity of the Duke's seat of Huntly
Lodge ; much to facility of intercourse with neighbour-
ing towns and villages ; much to the transit through it
of the great road from Aberdeen to Inverness ; and still
more, since 1854, to the construction past it of the Great
North of Scotland railway. Its site is dry, healthy,
and beautiful, amid charming hilly environs, heathy
and swampish once, but now reclaimed, highly culti-
vated, and richly embellished ; and it comprises nine or
ten well-built streets, the two principal ones crossing
each other at right angles, and forming a spacious
market-place or square, in which stand a colossal sand-
stone statue, on a gi-anite pedestal, of the last Duke of
Gordon, by the late William Brodie, R.S.A., and a
handsome fountain, erected in 1882 in memory of a
deceased banker. The place thus presents a modern,
pleasant, and even elegant appearance, the view of it
from the S being singularly fine, since, besides the
several features of the town, it takes in the ruin of
Huntly Castle and the neighbouring mansion and pleas-
ure-grounds of Huntly Lodge, and rests on the brilliant
background of Ord Fell (817 feet) and the Bin (1027),
which are all one mass of forest. Huntly or Strathbogie
Castle, a stronghold in the 13th century of the Strath-
bogie Earls of Athole, by King Robert Bruce was granted
to Sir Adam Gordon, lord of Gordon in Berwickshire,
■who fell at the battle of Halidon Hill (1333). Burned
and dismantled in 1594 after the battle of Glenlivet, and
rebuilt in 1602 by the first Llarquis of Huntly, it ceased
to be inhabited about 1760, and now is a stately ruin,
which retains a few vaults of the original castle, but
chiefly consists of a large round tower, with a great hall
43 feet long and 30 broad. Huntly Lodge, on a rising-
ground, 1^ mile N by E of the town and 3 furlongs N
of the castle, was originally a shooting-bos of the Duke
of Gordon, but was enlarged in 1832 into a handsome
and commodious edifice. It served as the residence of
the Duke of Gordon's eldest son, from the time of the
removal of the family seat to Gordon Castle ; and after
the death of the last duke in 1836, became the residence
of the dowager-duchess. See Gordon Castle.

The town was almost surrounded with water during
the great floods in August 1829, but sustained compara-
tively little damage. The ancient one-arch bridge across
the Deveron, which commands a very fine view, with-
stood the pressure of the current ; across the Bogie is a
good three-arch bridge. A gas company was started
in 1837 ; and in 1867 water was brought in from the
Clashmach at a cost of £3140. Stewart's Hall, erected
in 1874-75 at a cost of over £3000, the bequest of the late
Alexander Stewart, a solicitor in the place, is a handsome
Scottish Baronial edifice, with a public meeting-room, a
public hall (600 seats), a clock-tower 80 feet high, etc.
The parish church is a plain structure of 1805, containing
1800 sittings. The neat Free church, built in 1840 at a
cost of over £1300, in result of the famous Strathbogie
movements that preceded the Disruption, contains 945
sittings. Other places of worship arc the U.P. church
(1809 ; 340 sittings), the Gothic Congregational church
(1851 ; 480), Episcopal Christ Church (1850), a small
elegant Gothic pile, with a spire, and St Margaret's
Eoman Catholic church (1834 ; 400), with a curious
crown-topped tower. The public schools on the N side
of the town, looking down the princijjal street, were
erected in 1839-41 by the Dowager-Duchess of Gordon,
as a memorial to her husband ; form a large and very
handsome building, pierced with an archway which leads
up to Huntly Lodge and .surmounted by a small spire
with a clock ; and contain the parochial l)oard school and
the Gordon female industrial and infant school. Scott's
Hospital, a fine edifice on the SE side of the town,
was erected in 1854 from a bequest of the late Dr Scott,
a native of Huntly, for the maintenance of aged men
and women. In 1815 James Legge, JI.A., Professor of
Chinese in Oxford University, was born at Huntly, as
in 1824 was the poet and novelist, George Macdonald.

Huntly has a post office, with money order, savings'
bank, insurance, and railway telegraph departments,
280

HUNTLY

branches of the Union, Aberdeen To^vn and County,
and North of Scotland Banks, a local savings' hank, 7
insurance agencies, 3 hotels, a dispensarj', a coffee and
reading room, a Roman Catholic school, a farmers' club,
a bee-keepers' association, a horticultural society (1846),
and a Saturday newspaper, the Huntly Express (1863).
Thursday is market-day ; and cattle-markets are held on
the first and third Weclnesdays of every month. Several
bleachfields of great repute were long in operation on
the Bogie ; and the manufacture of fine linen, intro-
duced from Ireland in 1768, towards the close of last
century had an annual value of from £30,000 to £40,000.
These industries have ceased, as also have tanning
and distilling ; but plough - making, brick and tile
making, and the ordinary departments of artificership,
aff"ord employment to a considerable number of the
inhabitants. A large trade in grain, arising since 1820,
received a great stimulus from the opening of the
railway ; and other sources of prosperity are the market-
ing and export of eggs and cheese, and an extensive
retail trade in the supply of miscellaneous goods to the
surrounding country. Having partially adopted the
General Police and Improvement Act (Scotland) prior
to 1871, the town is governed by a baron-bailie, a
senior and two junior magistrates, and 9 police com-
missioners. The prison, legalised in 1847, has served
since 1874 for the detention of prisoners for terms not
exceeding three days. Sheriff small-debt courts are held
on the second Mondays of March, June, September, and
December. The municipal constituency numbered 562
in 1883, when the annual value of real property within
the burgh was £7605. Pop. (1831) 2585, (1861) 3448,
(1871) 3570, (1881) 3519, of whom 1948 were females.
Houses (1881) 724 inhabited, 35 vacant, 8 building.

The parish of Huntly, formed by the union in 1727 of
the ancient parishes of Dumbennan and Kinnoir, the
latter to the right or E of the Deveron, is hounded NW
by Caii'nie, N and NE by Rothiemay in Banffshire, E
by Forgue and Drumblade, SE by Drumblade, S by
Gartly, and W by Glass. With a very irregular out-
line, it has an utmost length from NE to SW of 10
miles, an utmost breadth of 3J miles, and an area of
12,5765 acres, of which 8SJ are water. The Deveron
here has a winding course of lOf miles— first 3 miles
north-eastward along the Cairnie border, then 42 east-
south-eastward through the interior, and lastly 3 miles
north-by-westward again along the boundary with
Cairnie ; the Bogie flows 2§ miles north-north-eastward
along the Drumblade border, and, after a further course
of IJ furlong, falls into the Deveron at a point 1 mile
NNE of the town. The surface sinks opposite Milltown
of Rothiemay to 290 feet above sea-level, thence rising
to 650 feet at St Mungo's Hill, 720 at the Wood of
Kinnoir, 692 at Dumbennan Hill, 1229 at Clashmach
Hill, 1000 at Brown Hill, and 12S5 at Muckle Long
Hill. The parish, thus, is for the most part hilly, and
was formerly bleak, but has undergone extensive re-
clamation and much embellishment. A considerable
aggregate of low land, naturally fertile, and now finely
arable, lies along the banks of the rivers ; and a large
extent of the hills, once heathy or swampish, is now
either in a state of good pasturage or adorned with
thriving plantations. St Mungo's Hill, in the E, ter-
minates in a large crater-like cavity, generally filled
with water, and its summit is strewn with fragments of
lava and pumice-stone. Granite is the prevailing rock ;
limestone, of a quality not much inferior to marble,
occurs in small quantity ; and traces of very fine plum-
bago have been found near the confluence of the rivers.
The arable soil of Dumbennan is generally a good deep
loam, but that of Kinnoir is of a cold clayey character.
The ruins of an old castle are on the Avochy estate.
The Duke of Richmond is much the largest proprietor,
1 other holding an annual value of over £500, 2 of
between £50 and £100, and 14 of from £20 to £50.
Huntly is in the presbytery of Strathbogie and synod of
Moray ; the living is worth £330. The Gordon i)ublic,
Kinnoir public, Longhill public. Meadow Street public,
Gordon female industrial, and a Roman Catholic school.

HUNTLY

with respective accomBiodation for 319, 63, 43, 140,
362, and 78 children, had (1881) an average attendance
of 190, 54, 21, 139, 261, and 54, and grants of £141, lis.,
£54, 10s., £33, 18s. 6d., £96, 10s., £174, 8s. 5d., and
£35, 14s. 7d. Valuation (1860) £8061, (1882) £14,681,
10s. 5d, Pop. (1801) 2863, (1831) 3545, (1861) 4329,
(1871) 4374, (1881) 4388.— Ori. Sur., sh. 86, 1876.

Huntly, a burn in Melrose parish, Roxburghshire,
issuing from Cauldshiels Loch, and traversing the
grounds of Abbotsford to the river Tweed. It runs
through the Rhymer's Glen, named from True Thomas
of Ercildoun or Earlston, and famous as a loved retreat
of Sir AValter Scott. Huntlyburn House stands 1 mile
WSW of Melrose iomi.—Ord. Sur., sh, 25, 1865.

Huntly, Perthshire. See Castle-Huntly.

Hurlet, a village on the SE border of Abbey parish,
Renfrewshire, on the left bank of Levern Water, 5 fur-
longs NW of Nitshill station, 1\ mile NNE of Barrhead,
and 3 miles SE of Paisley. Standing amid a rich mineral
field, where coal has been worked for upwards of three
centuries, and ironstone for close upon fifty years, it
was the seat from 1753 till 1820 of a copperas work, the
only one in Scotland up to 1807. Becoming also the
seat, tentatively in 1766-69 and effectively in 1797, of
the earliest alum work, it has ever since the latter date
continued to produce large quantities of alum, muriate
of potash, and sulphate of ammonia. It has a post
office under Glasgow. Pop. (1871) 379, (1881) 341.—
Orel. Sur., sh. 30, 1866.

Hurlford, a town in Riccarton parish, Ayrshire, on
the left bank of the river Irvine, with a station on the
Glasgow and South-Western railway, at the junction of
the Newmilus branch, 2 miles ESE of Kilmarnock,
under which it has a post office, with money order,
savings' bank, and telegraph departments. Connected
by a bridge with the suburb of Ckookedholm in Kil-
marnock parish, it is the seat of extensive ironworks of
the Eglinton Iron Co. (1846), as also of a worsted
spinning-mill and of large fire-clay works, whilst in
the neighbourhood are many collieries. A quoad
sacra parish church, erected in 1875 at a cost of £8000,
is an Early English edifice, with 800 sittings, a fine
organ, and a tower containing the largest bell in the
county. There are also a Free church, a Roman Catho-
lic chapel-school (1883), an Institute, with public hall
and reading-room, erected by private liberality, and
two public schools — Hurlford and Crookedholm. The
quoad sacra parish, constituted in 1874 with an endow-
ment of £3000, is in the presbytery of Irvine and synod
of Glasgow and Ayr. Pop. of town (1861) 2598, (1871)
3488, (1881) 4385, of whom 657 were in Crookedholm;
of q. 9. parish (1881) 4699, of whom 193 were in Galston
parish.— Ord Sur., sh. 22, 1865.

Hutchison, a village of NW Lanarkshire, 1 \ mile from
Cambuslang.

Hutton, a Border village and parish of SE Berwick-
shire. Tlie village stands f mile S of Whitadder Water,
A\ miles NNW of Velvethall station in Northumberland,
and 7 W of Berwick-upon-Tweed, under which it has a
post office. It is supposed to have been the camping-
place of the army of Edward I. in 1296, on the day
before the capture of Berwick.

The parish contains also the village of Paxton, and
comprehends the ancient parishes of Hutton and Fish-
wick, united in 1614. It is bounded N by Chirnside
and Foulden, E by Mordington and the Liberties of
Berwick, SE and S by Northumberland, SW by Lady-
kirk, and W by Wliitsome and Edrom. Its utmost
length, from E to W, is 4 miles ; its utmost breadth, from
N to S, is 3| miles ; and its area is 5645^ acres, of which
129| are water. Whitadder Water winds 7 miles
along all the northern and most of the eastern boundary ;
and the Tweed sweeps 4 miles north-eastward along all
the Northumberland border, midway being spanned by
the Union Bridge, which, constructed in 1820 at a cost
of £7500 after designs by Captain Sir Samuel Brown,
R.N., is a suspension bridge for carriages, the first of
its kind in Britain. With a carriage-way 27 feet above
the surface of the stream, it measures 368 feet in length
66

HUTTON AND COREIE

and 18 in width. The surface of the parish, for the
most part looking almost a dead level, declines along the
Tweed to 96 feet, and attains a summit altitude of 244
feet at a point 5 furlongs SW of Hutton village. The
ground adjacent to the Whitadder and the Tweed con-
trasts, in scenic character, with the prevailing tameness
of the interior, and, being well wooded, is charmingly
pictui'escjue. Sandstone is a prevailing rock, and can be
found, at comparatively little depth from the surface, in
almost every part, whilst a stratum of gypsum occurs
on Hutton Hall estate. The soil on the lands along the
rivers is mostly a rich deep loam, incumbent upon sand-
stone ; but on part of the central lauds is thin, wet,
and cold, overlying a strong tenacious clay. Some 65
acres are pastoral, about 260 are under wood, and all
the rest of the land is regularly in tillage. Andrew
Foreman, Archbishop of St Andrews from 1514 to
1522, was a native of Hutton ; the Rev. Philip Rid-
path, editor of the Border History (1770), was minister
of it ; and George Home of Wedderburn, one of the
Edinburgh literati towards the close of last century,
was long a resident. Hutton Hall, on the right bank
of Whitadder Water, 1^ mile NW of Hutton village,
crowns the brink of an eminence, and comprises a
very ancient peel-tower, with a long mansion attached,
of patch-work structure and various dates. Its oldest
part, a remarkable specimen of a Border stronghold,
was the seat of one of the ' Seven Spears of Wedder-
burn ' mentioned by Sir Walter Scott in his Lay of
the Last Minstrel. The estate of Hutton Hall (630
acres, valued at £1588 per annum) was purchased in
1876 for £50,000 by Sir Dudley Coutts jMarjoribanks of
Guisachan, who in 1881 was raised to the peerage as
Baron Tweedmouth. Mansions, noticed separately, are
Meadow House, Paxton House, Spital House, and
Tweedhill House ; and 7 proprietors hold each an
annual value of £500 and upwards, 1 of between £100
and £500, 3 of from £50 to £100, and 5 of from £20 to
£50. Hutton is in the presbytery of Chirnside and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale ; the living is worth
£355. The parish church is a modern Norman structure
of 1765, with a massive square tower and 700 sittings.
Hutton public, Paxton girls' and infants', and Paxton
schools, with respective accommodation for 80, 48, and
95 children, had (1881) an average attendance of 59, 28,
and 48, and grants of £52, 14s. 6d., £22, 10s., and £43,
13s. Valuation (1865) £10,627, (1882) £12,630, 13s.
Pop. (1801) 955, (1821) 1118, (1861) 1067, (1871) 1077,
(1881) 962.— Ord Sur., shs. 26, 34, 1864.

Hutton and Corrie, an Annandale parish of Dumfries-
shire, containing, towards the NW, the post office of
Boreland, near the left bank of Dryfe Water, 5| miles
NE of Nethercleuch station, and 7 NNE of the post-
town Lockerbie. Bounded NE by Eskdalemuir, E by
Westerkirk, SE and S by Tundergarth, and W by
Dryfesdale, Applegarth, and Wamphray, it has an ut-
most length from N by W to S by E of 14 miles, an
utmost width from E to W of 6 miles, and an area of
23,991| acres, of which 68| are water. Dryee Water,
rising in the northern extremity of the parish at an
altitude of 1900 feet, wmds llf miles southward, till it
passes off into Applegarth ; the Water of Milk, from a
point J mile below its source (770 feet), runs 8j miles
south-westward on or close to all the Tundergarth
border ; and Corrie Water, its affluent, rising near the
Eskdalemuir border at 800 feet, flows 7 miles south-
south-westward through the interior and along the
boundary with Applegarth and Dryfesdale. The sur-
face sinks to 370 feet above sea-level along the Milk,
and to 400 along the Dryfe, thence rising north-north-
eastward and northward to 827 feet at Pyatshaws Rig,
1085 at *Hart Fell, 1021 at Peat Hill, 1259 at Macmaw
Hill, 1587 at *Laverhay Height, 1754 at *Jocks
Shoulder, and 2256 at *Loch Fell, where asterisks mark
those summits that culminate right on the confines of
the parish. The rocks are mainly Silurian. The NE
portion of the parish, lying generally high, affords good
runs for Cheviot sheep ; while on the lower portion,
which is mostly sound pasturage and meadow land,

281

KUTTON HALL

dairy farming is carried on somewhat extensively, Tivitli
some cattle-raising and breeding of half-bred lambs.
The Corrie side of the jjarish has of late years been
greatly improved, and now affords excellent grazing.
Barely one-eighth of the entire area is arable. Hutton
Moat and a camp upon Corrie "Water make up the anti-
quities -with ten or eleven hill-forts. Mansions are Gil-
lesbie House (James Alex. Rogerson, Esq. of Wamphray)
and Shaw (John Graham, Esq. ), both near Boreland post
office ; and 5 proprietors hold each an annual value of
more, 3 of less, than £500. Formed by the union of
the ancient parishes of Hutton and Corrie in 1609, this
parish is in the presbytery of Lochmaben and synod of
Dumfries ; the living 'is worth £405. The chitrch, near
Boreland, was built about 1710, and, as enlarged in
1764, contains 312 sittings ; whilst two public schools,
Corrie and Hutton, with respective accommodation for

INCH

88 and 73 children, had (1881) an average attendance of
66 and 61, and gi-ants of £79, 18s. and £50, 14s. 6d.
Valuation (1860) £7766, (1SS3) £13,417, 8s. 3d. Pop.
(1801) 646, (1831) 860, (1851) 886, (1871) 842, (1881)
814.— Ore?. Sur., shs. 10, 16, 1864.

Hutton Hall, Dumfriesshire. See Caerlaverock.

Hutton Hall, Berwickshire. See Hutton.

Hyndford, a hamlet and au estate in Lanark parish,
Lanarkshire. The hamlet, on the right bank of the
Clyde, 2i miles SE of Lanark town, bears the name of
Hyndford- Bridge, from a narrow five-arch bridge across
the river, erected in the latter half of last century.
The estate, extending along the Clyde both above and
below the hamlet from early in the 16th century, has
belonged to the family of Carmichael, and gave them
the title of Earl in the peerage of Scotland from 1701
till 1817.— Ort^. Sur., sh. 23, 1865. See Carmichael.

I A or I. See Iona.
Ibris. See EvEERorGHT.
Ibrox, a village in Govan parish, Lanarkshire, with
a station on the Glasgow and South-'NYestern rail-
way, 7 furlongs S of Govan town, and 2| miles WSW
of the centre of Glasgow. It contains a number of
genteel residences, and has a U.P. church.

Icolmkill. See Ioxa.

Idoch Water, a burn of Monquhitter and Turriff
parishes, N Aberdeenshire, rising near Newbyth in the
SE of King-Edward parish, and running lOJ miles
■west-south-westward past Cuminestown, till, after a
descent of 300 feet, it falls into the Deveron in the
vicinity of Turriff. In its upper reaches it bears the
name of the Burn of Monquhitter. — Ord. Sur., sh.
86, 1876.

Idvies, a modern mansion in Kirkden parish, Forfar-
shire, 3 miles SW of Guthrie Junction. Its owner, John
Clerk Brodie, Esq. (b. 1811), holds 1910 acres in the
shire, valued at £2560 per annum. — Orel. Sur., sh. 57,
1868.

Hay. See Islay.

Hie. See Kildoxan.

lUeray, an island of Xorth Uist parish. Outer Hebrides,
Inverness-shire, adjacent to Balleshare island, and in-
sulated from the SW side of North Uist island only at
high water. It measures 1| by J mile, and has a soil
partly sandy, partly black loam, yielding tolerable crops
of barley and pasture for cattle. Pop., with that of
Balleshare, (1861) 199, (1871) 246, (18S1) 266.

Inch, Edinburghshire. See Inch House.

Inch. See Leven, Loch.

Inch. See Forfar.

Inch, a coast parish of NW Wigtownshire. Includ-
ing till 1617-28 the jiresent parishes of Stranraer and
Portpatrick, it now comprises all the rest of the ancient
parishes of Inch and Soulseat, the former named from
the islet in Castle-Kennedy Loch, opposite the old parish
church, 3 miles E of Stranraer ; and it contains Castle
Kennedy and Stranraer stations, the Tradeston suburb
of Stranraer town, the post-office villages of Cairnryan
and Lochans, Stranraer, and the hamlet of Aird. It is
bounded N by Ballantrae in Ayrshire, E by New Luce,
SE by Old Luce, S by Stoneykirk, and W by Port-

f>atrick, Leswalt, Stranraer, and Loch Ryan. Its utmost
ength, from N to S, is lOJ miles ; its breadth, from E
to W, varies between 3| and 6 miles ; and its area is
31,919 acres, of which 590 are foreshore and 485 water.
The coast-line along Loch Ryan, measuring 7f miles,
includes most of the southern part or head of the loch
and all the E side, till within 2^ miles of the sea. In
the S and the southern part of the E side it has a flat
beach, covered with sand or gravel ; but northward it
grows bold and rocky, and is pierced with several caves
80 to 100 yards long. The northern and eastern dis-
282

ti'icts, comprising three-fifths of the entire area, are
everywhere hilly, their highest points being Cairnarzean
Fell (735 feet), Cairnscarrow (761), Braid Fell (769),
Brockloch Fell (769), and Mid-Moile (844). Here and
there are arable patches ; but mostlj'' the}^ are heathy,
rugged, and unsusceptible of culture. The southern
and south-western districts form the larger part of the
isthmus between Loch Ryan and Luce Bay, which,
though from the hills it looks to be perfectly level, has
really a gently undulating surface. It seems at no dis-
tant geological period to have been covered by the sea ;
and its curious ' pots ' or hollows — the largest 1000 feet
in circumference and 100 feet deep — are supposed to
have been scooped out by the whirling caused by the
meeting of opposite tidal currents from Loch Ryan
and Luce Bay. The Water of Luce runs 7§ miles
south-south-eastward along all the eastern border ;
Piltanton Burn flows 7 J miles south-eastward and
eastward along the boundary with Portpatrick, Stoney-
kirk, and Old Luce ; and a number of short burns drain
the interior to Loch Ryan or these two streams. Of
twelve lakes dotted over the interior, most of them in
the low-level southern district, the two largest and
finest — Castle- Kennedy and Soulseat — are noticed
separately. Chalybeate and slightly -sulphuretted
springs are in several places. The rocks are mainly
Silui-ian. Granite occurs in detached blocks ; excel-
lent slate has been quarried on the lands of Lochryan ;
lead ore is traditionally said to have been mined ; coal
has been sedulously but vainly sought ; and extensive
mosses yield abundance of peat fuel. The soil is
variously gravelly, sandy, clayey, loamy, and mossy,
and throughout the low-level district is generally light
and sandy. Fully two-fift!is of the entire area are
regularly or occasionally in tillage ; woods cover some
650 acres, and the rest is either pastoral or waste.
Special objects of antiquarian interest are treated under
Castle-Kennedy, Craigcaffie Castle, the Deil's Dyke,
Glenterra, the Moat of Innermessan, Larg Castle, and
Soulseat Abbey. Sir John Ross (1777-1856), the cele-
brated Arctic vo)-ager, son of the parish minister, was
a native ; and Marshal Stair (1673-1747) and General
Sir John-Alexander-Agnew Wallace, K.C.B. (1775-
1857), were residents. Mansions, noticed separately,
are Lochinch Castle, Culhorn, and Lochryan ; and 2
proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and
upwards, 4 of between £100 and £500, 4 of from £50
to £100, and 1 of from £20 to £50. In the presby-
tery of Stranraer and synod of Galloway, this parish is
ecclesiastically divided into Lochryan quoad sacra parish
and Inch proper, the latter a living worth £323. The
parish church was built in 1862, and contains 400
sittings. The manse is beautifully situated on a

feninsula in Soulseat Loch, the site of the old abbey,
nch Free chuixh stands near Castle-Kennedy station ;

INCH

and Castle-Kennedy public, Inchparks public, Lochans
public, and Cairnryan General Assembly school, with
respective accommodation for 105, 115, 168, and 81
children, had (1881) an average attendance of 74, 73,
88, and 31, and grants of £59, Is., £43, 12s., £79, 5s.,
and £36, 10s. Valuation (1860) £14,503,(1883) £17,344,
2s. 8d. Pop. (1801) 1577, (1831) 2521, (1861) 3469, (1871)
3268, (1881) 3766, of -whom 2254 were in the parlia-
mentary burgh of Stranraer and 3474 in Inch ecclesi-
astical parish. ^Orrf. Sur., sh. 3, 1856.

Inch or Insh, a lake, an ancient parish, and a quoad
sacra parish, in Badenoch district, E Inverness-shire.
The lake lies on the mutual border of Alvie and Kin-
gussie parishes, ^ mile S of Kincraig or Boat of Inch
station on the Highland railway, this being 18| miles
SSW of Grantown and 5J NE of the post-town Kin-
gussie. Formed by expansion of the river Spey, it lies
721 feet above sea-level, and has an utmost length and
breadth of 7^ and 4| furlongs. The rod-fishing is poor,
but salmon and char are netted in great numbers. The
Queen, under date 4 Sept. 1860, describes Loch luch as
' lovely, not a wild lake, quite the contrary : no high
rocks, but woods and blue hills as a background.' On
3 April 1881 the lake was completely frozen over with
ice \ inch thick. The ancient parish is united to Kin-
gussie parish, and forms its north-eastern district. The
quoad sacra parish, mainly identical with the ancient
parish, and lying around the upper part of Loch Inch,
was originally constituted in 1828, and is in the pres-
bytery of Abernethy and synod of Moray. The stipend
is £120, with a glebe worth £9 a year. The church,
an old building, sl:ands near the NE shore of Loch Inch,
and contains 300 sittings. Pop. (1871) 359, (1881) 455,
of whom 58 were in Alvie and 397 in Kingiissie. — Ord.
Sar., sh. 74, 1877.

Inch, Aberdeenshire. See Ixsch.

Inchaffray (Gael, innis-alh-reidh, 'island of the
smooth water;'* Lat. Lisula Missarum, 'island of
masses'), a ruined abbey in iladderty parish, Perth-
shire, crowning a small rising-gi-ound — an island once —
on the left bank of ditch -like Pow AVater, adjacent to
Madderty station, Q\ miles E by N of Criefi'. It was
founded in 1200 by Gilbert, third Earl of Stratheam,
and his Countess Matilda, to the memory of their first-
bom son, and to the honour of God, St Mary, and St
John the Evangelist. Colonised from Scone by canons
regular of the Augustinian order, and endowed with
many pri\dleges and possessions by several of the Scot-
tish kings, it held the churches of Sladderty, Auch-
terarder, Aberuthven, Strageath, Kinkell, etc., and
down to the Reformation possessed great note and in-
flue-ice. In 1556 James Drummond, younger and in-
fant son of the second Lord Drummond, was secular
commendator of Inchaffray, which was erected into a
temporal lordship in his favour ; and in 1609 he was
created Lord Madderty. The abbey, however, and a
few acres adjoining, -with the patronage of twelve
livings, afterwards passed to the Earls of Kinnoull.
Much of the walls remained standing till 1816 ; but a
turnpike road was then carried through the ruins,
which yielded, at the time of the demolition, a small
ivory cross, several stone coffins, and a number of
other interesting objects, and which now are repre-
sented chiefly by a western gable and a single arched
apartment. One of the abbots, Maurice, blessed
Bruce's army on the field of Bannockburn (1314); an-
other was slain at Flodden (1513). — Ord. Sur., sh, 47,
1869. See Cosmo Innes' Liber Iiisule Missarum (Banna-
tyne Club, 1847).

Inchard, a sea loch of Eddrachillis parish, NW
Sutherland, opening from the North Minch, and
striking 5J miles eastward and south-eastward to
Rhiconich inn. Its width contracts from 4 miles at
the entrance to \ mile, but expands again to f mile. It
contains nine islets in its outermost reach ; is pretty
well inhabited round the shores ; has somewhat bleak

* Some, however, connect -affray with the Gael, ai/rionn, ' mzes,'
in v.iiich case the Gaelic and Latin names are identical.

INCHCAILLOCH

flanks, relieved with features of good scenery ; and
forms a fine natural harbour. — Ord. Sur., sh. 113,
1582.

Inchbare, a scattered village in Stracathro parish,
Forfarshire, 4 miles N bj' "W of Brechin, under which
it has a post ofiice.

Inchbelly, a hamlet on the mutual border of Stirling-
shire and Dumbartonshire, on the river Kelvin, ad-
jacent to the Forth and Clyde Canal, 14: mile EXE of
Kirkintilloch. It has a bridge over the Kelvin, on the
road from Glasgow to Falkirk, and, together with Inch-
breck, Inchterf, Inchwood, and Xetherinch in its neigh-
bourhood, it owes the ' inch ' of its name to quondam
insulation by the waters which once occupied the strath
now ti-aversed by the Forth and Clyde Canal. — Ord.
Sur., sh. 31, 1867.

Inchberry, a hamlet in the extreme X of Eothes
parish, Elginshire, 5i miles SW of Fochabers.

Inchbervie or Inverbervie, an old roimd tower in
Auchtergaveu parish, Perthshire, on the right bank of
the Tay, ^ mile E of Stanley. It is traditionally said
to have been a religious house in connection with Dun-
fermline Abbey, but looks rather to have been a baronial
fortalice ; and it is now a curious rain.

Inchbrakie, a mansion in Crieff parish, Perthshire,
3 miles E by X of Crieff town. It contains a curious
carefully preserved relic of olden superstition kno^vn as
Inchbrakie's Piing and similar in character to the ' talis-
man ' of Sir Walter Scott's novel. It is a bluish imcut
sapphire, set in gold, which, in the second decade of last
century, the "Witch of Monzie, Kate M'Xiven, as she
was burning on the Knock of Crieff, is said to have
spat from her mouth, with the prediction that the
Grammes should prosper so long as they kept it safe, the
Laird of Inchbrakie having vainly attempted to save
her life. In 1513 the first of these Grtemes received
Inchbrakie, with Fowlis and Abentthven, from his
father the first Earl of Montrose ; and his descendant,
Patrick James Frederick Graeme, Esq. (b. 1849 ; sue.
1854), holds 5088 acres in the shire, valued at £3212
per annum. Inchbrakie Castle, a little ESE of the
mansion, was surrounded by a moat, and suffered de-
molition by CromweU in 1651 for the fifth laird's
zealous adherence to the Pioyalist cause. A beautiful,
well-wooded park surrounds the mansion and the re-
mains of the castle, and contains a very old yew tree,
the second largest, it is said, in Scotland, which is
believed to have given refuge, in a time of danger, to
the Marquis of Montrose. — Ord. Sur., sh. 47, 1869.

Inchbrayock, a triangular island (3 J x 2^ furl. ) and
an ancient parish of XE Forfarshire. The island, lying
in the South Esk river, between Montrose Basin and
the German Ocean, is separated from the mainland, on
both sides, only by currents of the divided river. It
has a low flat surface, nowhere exceeding 32 feet above
sea-level, and was included by the Municipal Eefonn
Bill in the parliamentary bm-gh of Montrose. Com-
municating with that town by a suspension bridge
(1829), and with the mainland on the other sidebya
stone bridge, it is traversed, in the line of these bridges
nearly through the middle, by the great coast road from
Dimdee to Aberdeen. At its E end is a dry dock ; and
it contains a small suburb of Montrose ; whilst, through
connection with Rossie barony, it is often called Eossie
Island. The ancient parish "comprehended the island
and some adjacent territory, and in 1618 was united
with the ancient parish of St Skeoch or Dunninald to
form the present parish of Craig. The church stood on
the island, and the graveyard still is used for the united
parish. — Ord. Sur., sh. 57, 1868.
Inchbreck. See Ixchbelly.

Inchcaillocli (Gael, innis-cailkach, ' island of the
nun'), a hilly, wooded island of Buchanan parish,
Stirlingshire, in Loch Lomond, between Tcrrinch and
Balmaha, 7 furlongs XW of the mouth of the river
Eudrick. "With an utmost length and breadth of 6^ by
3 furlongs, it belongs to the Duke of Montrose, and till
1621 was the seat of Inchcailloch parish church, dedi-
cated to St Kentigerna, a holy woman who had dwelt

283

INCHCAPE

INCHGARVIE

here as an anchorite. The foundations of this church
(57 X 24 feet) rnay still be traced ; whilst its ancient
grave3'ard is still in use, and contains some curious 17th
century tombstones.— O/-*/. Sur., sh. 38, 1871. See Dr
William Fraser's The Lennox (1874).

Inchcape. See Bell Kock.

Inchclair. See Clairinch.

Inchcolm, an island of Aberdour parish, Fife, in the
Firth of Forth, 5 furlongs SE of the nearest point of the
mainland and 1^ mile S by W of Aberdour village. It
measures 950 j^ards in extreme length, or a little over
half a mile, and froui 22 to 220 yards in breadth, to the
E of the abbey becoming so flat and narrow, that at
high tides the waters of the Firth meet over it. Both
the extremities are high and rockj'-, the western attain-
ing 102 and the eastern 97 feet above seadevel. It
chiefly consists of trap, with greenstone to the S, largely
dusted with scales of a bi'ownish mica ; and, though
partly arable, it otfers a bleak appearance. Anciently
called .ffimonia, it figures in Shakespeare's Macbeth,
under the name of Saint Colmes Inch, as the burial-

i)lace of the defeated followers of Sweno, the Norways'
:ing. 'In memory whereof,' adds Raphael Holinshed,
' many old sepultures are yet in the said Inch, there to
be seen graven Avith the arms of the Danes.' In 1123
Alexander I., crossing the Queensferry on affairs of
state, encountered a great storm, and was driven upon
the island of j^lmonia, where he was received by a
hermit who served St Columba in a small chapel, and
lived upon shellfish and the milk of one cow. Here the
King was obliged to remain three days, and here, in
fulfilment of a vow made in the extremity of his peril,
he founded an Augustinian abbey in honour of St
Columba. Such is the story told by Walter Bower,
Abbot of Inchcolm, who carried Fordun's Scotichronicon
as far down as 1437. From 1335 to 1547 the abbey was
several times pillaged by the English ; and on the last
occasion, after the Battle of Pinkie, the Duke of Somer-
set seized upon Inchcolm as a post commanding ' utterly
the whole use of the Firth itself, with all the havens
upon it.' He sent, ' as elect Abbot by God's suff"erancc,
Sir John Luttrell, knight, with C. hakbutiers and L.
pioneers, to keep his house and land there, and LXX.
mariners to keep his waters, whereby,' observes Patten
naively, ' it is thought he shall soon become a prelate
of great power.' During the war with France, in the
beginning of the present century, the island served as
an artillery station, with a ten-gun battery on the E
hill, near whose remains the officers and men of Prince
Alfred's ship, the Fuicoon, put up their tents for a fort-
night (186-3). It was resolved in 1883 to erect a
lighthouse here. In 1543 Inchcolm was granted to
Sir James Stewart of Beith, afterwards Lord Doune
and father of the first Earl of Moray. His second son
in 1611 was created Baron St Colme — a title that passed,
with the island, at the death of the second Lord, to his
cousin, the Earl of Moray. A little stone-roofed chapel,
15f feet long, which served till lately as a pigstye or a
byre, has been identified by Sir James Simpson with
the hermitage of King Alexander's day, thus datin^
among the earliest Christian edifices in Scotland. The
neighbouring ' monastic buildings are of very various
dates and still very extensive ; and their oblong, light-
grey mass, surmounted by a tall, square, central tower,
forms a striking object in the distance, as seen in the
summer moniing light from the higher streets and
houses of Edinburgh, and from the neighbouring shores
of the Firth of Forth.' The tower (20 J feet srpiare) is
so similar in its architectural forms and details to that
of Icolmkill, that it is evidently a structure nearly, if
not entirely, of the same age ; and the new choir (78 x
15 feet) of 1265 is apparently, as .seen by its remaining
masonic connections, posterior in age to the tower on
which it abuts. These monastic buildings liave been
fortunately protected and preserved by their insular
situation — not from the silent and wasting touch of
time, l)Ut from the more ruthless and destructive hand
of man. The stone-roofed octagonal chapter-house
(22§ feet in diameter) is one of the most beautiful and
284

perfect in Scotland ; and the abbot's house, the cloisters
(34 feet square), refectory, etc., are still comparatively
entire. Pop. (1881) 7.— Orel. Sur., sh. 32, 1857. See
vol. iii. of Billings' Baronial anel Ecclesiastical Anti-
quities (1852) ; an article by Mr Thomas Arnold in
vol. V. of Trans. Architectural Institute of Scotland
(1859) ; and Sir James Simpson's Archceological Essays
(1S72).

Inchconnachan or Colquhoun's Island, an islet of
Luss parish, Dumbartonshire, in Loch Lomond, 1| mile
SE of Luss village. It is separated by only narrow belts
of water from Inchtavannach on the W and Inchmoan
on the S ; measures 5^ furlongs in extreme length by
3 J in breadth ; and is well clothed with natural wood. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 38, 1871.

Inchcormac, an islet of North Knapdale parish,
Argyllshire, in the mouth of Loch Swin. It contains
remains of an ancient chapel, with a sculptured sarco-
phagus.

Inchcroin, See Cratinch.

Inchcruin (Gael, 'round island'), an islet of Buchanan
parish, Stirlingshire, in Loch Lomond, J mile "W by N
of Inchfad, and 9^ furlongs WSW of Arrochymore
Point. With an utmost length and breadth of 4| and
3 furlongs, it has little wood, and was formerly the
site of an establishment for the insane. — Ord. Sur., sh.
38, 1871.

Inchdaimie, an estate, with a mansion, in Kinglassio
parish, Fife, 2h miles S by W of Leslie. Its owner,
Roger Sinclair Aytoun, Esq. (b. 1823), M. P. for Kirk-
caldy 1862-74, holds 3424 acres in tlie shire, valued at
£5047 per annum.— OrtZ. Sur., sh. 40, 1867.

Inchdrewer Castle. See Banff.

Inchdr3niich, an estate, with a modern mansion, in
Glenorchy and Innishail parish, Argyllshire, on the E
shore of Loch Awe, 5 miles SW of Dalmally. The house
was leased in 1858 and following years by the celebrated
etcher, IMr P. G. Hamerton. Its owner, William Muir,
Esq., holds 4250 acres in the shire, valued at £1260 per
annum.^ — Orel. Sur., sh. 45, 1876.

Incheffray. See Ixchaffray.

Inches, a mansion in Inverness parish, Inverness-
shire, 2g miles ESE of the town. A baronial castle
stood a little to the N of it ; and its estate, which has
been greatly improved of recent years, contains quarries
of excellent sandstone, affording the chief supplj' of
building material to Inverness, and is traversed by a
burn, with some beautiful small cascades. — Ord. Sur.,
sh. 84, 1876.

Inches, Easter and Wester, low flat alluvial tracts
in the Carse of Falkirk, Stirlingshire, traversed or
enfolded hj the windings of the river Carron.

Inches, North and South. See Perth.

Inches Station. See Douglas.

Inchewan, an estate, with a mansion, in Tannadice
parish, Forfarshire, on the left bank of the South Esk,
5 miles ENE of Kirriemuir. Its owner, John Ogilvy,
Esq., holds 2716 acres in the shire, valued at £2244 per
annum. — Ord. Sur., sh. 57, 1S6S.

Inchfad (Gael, innis-fada, 'long island '), a fertile islet
of Buchanan parish, Stirlingshire, in Loch Lomond, 2J
furlongs SW of Arrochymore Point. Extending south-
westward between Inchcailloch and Inchcruin, it has an
utmost length and breadth of 7 and 2| furlongs, is but
jiartially wooded, and shows the features of an ornate
isLxm.—Ord. Sur., sh. 38, 1871.

Inchgalbraith, a tiny islet of Luss parish, Dumbarton-
shire, in Loidi Lomond, 2\ furlongs respectively SE and
SW of Inchtavannach and Inchmoan, and 4J furlongs
NE of the point of land ailjacent to Rossdhu House.
It retains some ruins of an ancient castle of the Galbraith
family, amid a lew overshadowing trees.

Inchgarvie, a rocky i.slet of Inverkeithing parish,
Fife, in the Firth of Forth, 3 furlongs SSE of the North
Queensferry coastguard station and 4^ NE of Long Craig
near South Queensferry. Measuring 5 furlongs in cir-
cumference, it was crowned with a fort in the reign of
James IV., which served as a state prison from 1519
till the purchase of the Bass in 1671, and which was

INCHINNAN

visited in 1651 by Charles II. Inchgarvie was re-
fortified and provided with four iron 24-pounders in
1779, after the alarm occasioned by the appearance of
Paul Jones' squadron in the Firth ; and it now forms
the central support of the two great spans of the Forth
Kailway Bridge.— Ord. Sur., sh. 32, 1857.

Inchinnan (old forms Inchicnun, Inclicnane, Inchinan;
Gael, inch, an island, and Inan, the patron saint; in the
Eagmau Roll the name is Kilinan), a small parish on the
north-eastern border of Renfrewshire adjoining the river
Clyde. It is bounded NE by the Clyde (which divides
it from New Kilpatrick in Dumbartonshire), E and SE
by Renfrew, SW by Kilbarchan and Erskiue, and W and
NW by Erskine. The boundary on the NE is formed by
the Clyde for a distance of 2| miles, on the E and SE by
the Cart and the Black Cart for a distance of 3;^ miles, and
at the SW corner by the Gryfe for 3^ furlongs. Along the
W it is purely artificial. Near the centre of the Clyde
border is Newshot — corruptlj'Nushet — island, which is
1^ mUe long by f wide, while in the Cart before its
confluence with the Clyde is a smaller one called Colin's
Isle. At the latter point, according to tradition, a
vessel once stranded, and long before the litigation due
to this had ended, the mud and silt had so gathered
ai-ound the wreck as to form a small island covered with
thriving young firs. The extreme length of the parish
from North Barr on the N to the junction of the Cart
and Gr3''fe on the S is 2 J miles, and the extreme breadth
from the mouth of the Black Cart straight westward is
34 miles. The total area is 3527 '993 acres, of which
60 "892 are foreshore and 136 "697 are water. The
height rises gradually from the Clyde southwards and
westwards. On the SE the height is from 12 to 20 feet,
and it rises to 52 feet at the Free church, near the
centre of the parish, and to 182 near Craigend. About
eight-ninths of the parish is under cultivation, and the
rest is woodland, roads, houses, etc., there being no
Avaste. The soil is excellent, consisting chieflj' of strong
productive clay, and in the lower parts of rich loam.
The underlying rocks are carboniferous, and consist of
sandstone, limestone, coal, and volcanic rocks. Basalt
has been extensively worked since 1760 for the construc-
tion of jetties, etc., and there are also quarries of sand-
stone and limestone both of good quality. The centre
of the parish is about 9 miles distant from Glasgow,
and 13 from Greenock. The parish is traversed by the
roads from Paisley to Greenock, and from Renfrew to
Greenock, but there is no railwaj- within its bounds.
The Renfrew section of the G. & S.-W. railway passes,
however, close to the E side, and the Paisley and Greenock
section of the Caledonian along the SW, and most parts
are accessible from the Renfrew, Houston, or Bishop-
ton stations. The Paisley and Greenock road crosses
the Black Cart by Barnsford Bridge, and the Renfrew
and Greenock road crosses both the Black and White
Cart about 30 yards above their junction by Inchinnan
Bridge. Here there was formerly a public ferry ; and
an adjoining property is still known as Ferrj'croft. In
1759 a bridge of nine arches was built across the river
below the junction of the two streams. It was also
connected by a side arch with the point between the
streams. It cost only £1450, and proved worth the
money, for the foundations were bad and the whole
structure gave way in 1809. The new bridge above
the junction was completed in 1812 at an expense
of £17,000. It is composed of two divisions, not
in the same straight line, but forming nearly a right
angle, each section crossing one of the streams almost at
a right angle also. It was at the ford here that Argyll
was captured in 1685 (see Rexfuew). Although the
parish takes its name from Inan, who was a confessor
at Irvine in the 9th century, and was also patron saint
of Beith, the church seems to have been dedicated to
Saint Conval or Connal or Convallus, who taught
Christianity here eaz'ly in the 7th century. According
to Fordun, who says he was the chief disciple of Saint
Mungo, and was famous for his virtues and miracles,
his bones were buried at Inchenane ; and Bede says his
remains in a stately monument at Inchennan were held

INCHINNAN

in great veneration in his day. According to the Aber-
deen Breviary, Conval sailed miraculously from Ireland
to the Clyde on a stone which remained on the bank of
the Cart, and was known as Currus Sancti Convalli, and
wrought miraculous cures on man and beast. A stone
called St Connalie's Stone stood near the ancient ford
on the Renfrew side of the river, and is mentioned in
the records of the burgh of Paisley in 1620. Mr
Motherwell (in notes to Rcnfreicshire Characters and
Scenes) identifies it with the Argyll stone (see Ren-
frew), and thinks it was the pediment of a cross
dedicated to St Connal near his cell, and also marking
the ford. The church was excepted from Walter Fitz-
AUan's grant to the monastery of Paisley of all the
churches of Strathgryfe, as he had already granted the
church of Inchinnan with all its pertinents to the
Knights Templars. On their suppression in 1312 it
was transferred to the Knights of St John of Jerusalem.
After the Reformation the tithes, temple-lands, etc.
passed to Lord Torphichen, and the temple-lands sub-
sequently to Semple of Beltrees. The old church was
on the site of the present building at the W end of
Inchinnan bridge, and was a plain structure measuring
50 feet by 18, with very thick walls. It was built about
1100, and was pulled down in 1828, when the floor
was found to be literally paved with skulls. Four
tombstones, apparently remains of old stone coffins,
with ridged tops, are called 'the Templars' graves.'
The ground known as Ladyacre was the endowment of
the A^irgin's altar in the old church. The lands of
Inchinnan were granted by King Malcolm IV. to
Walter, the High Steward, in 1158, but on the death
of Matthew, fourth Earl of Lennox, in 1571, they
reverted to the Crown, James VI. being the heir. He
conferred them first on his uncle Charles, then on his
grand uncle Robert, afterwards Earl of March, and
thereafter again on Esme Stewart, Lord d'Aubigny,
a cousin of his father. In 1672 Charles, sixth Duke of
Lennox, dying without issue, the lands again reverted
to the Crown, and were granted by Charles II. in 1680
to his natural son Charles Lennox, Duke of Lennox and
Richmond, who sold them to the Duke of Montrose in
the beginning of last century, and he again in 1737 sold
them to Archibald Campbell of Blythswood, descended
from the families of Ardkinlas and Douglas of Mains in
Dumbartonshire, and in his Hue the property still
remains. The manor-house stood about 2 furlongs N
of North Barr House towards the Clj'de, and seems to
have been extensively altered and rebuilt about 1506 by
Matthew, Lord Darnley, second Earl of Lennox, and to
have received the name of 'the palace,' which the site
still bears. According to Crawford's History of Ren-
freicshire, there were considerable remains of the build-
ing in 1710, but these had disappeared before the end
of the century. The estate of North Barr was purchased
originally in 1670 by Donald M 'Gilchrist, who claimed
descent from the Lord of Tarbart of Robert the Bruce's
time. Part of it passed to the family of Balfour, but
the greater part of it was in 1741 acquired by Lord
Sempill, and again in 1798 b}' Jlr James Buchanan, who
sold it to Lord Blantyre in 1812. An old baronial
fortalice on it has since been demolished. South Barr
was the property of the Boyds, and afterwards of the
Alexanders, sjirung from Claud Alexander of Balloch-
myle. There is a good mansion-house, built in 1827, on
the site of the old house, which was burned in 1826. Park
House (A. Mofl'att, Esq.) is a modern mansion. Robert
Law, a Covenanting minister, whose curious Journal from
1638 to 1684 was edited in 1818 by C. K. Sharpe, was
born in the parish. The post-town is Paisley. Sir Archi-
bald Campbell of Blythswood is the principal proprietor ;
6 others hold an annual value of £100 to £500 ; and
there are a few others of smaller amount. Inchinnan
is in the presbytery of Paisley and the synod of Glas-
gow and Ayr ; the living is worth £420. The parish
church, near the left bank of the Black Cart, l| mile
W by N of Renfrew, is a Gothic building with a square
tower, and was opened in 1828. The Free church, built
at the private cost of Sir Henderson of Park, is 1| mile

285

INCHKEITH

INCHKENNETH

XWof the parish church. The public school, with accom-
modation for 130 children, had (ISSl) an average attend-
ance of 40, and a grant of £31, 19s. Valuation (1860)
£5501, (1879) £8029, 6s., (1883) £7181, 3s. 3d. Pop.
(1755) 397, (1801) 462, (1831) 642, (1S61) 619, (1871)
584, (1881) 508. The decrease in population is due to
the stoppage of Southbar Colliery and Rashielea Quarry.
—Ord. Siu:, sh. 30, 1866.

Inchkeitb, an island of Kinghorn parish, Fife, in the
Firth of Forth, 2j miles SE by S of Kinghorn Ness, z>^
SSE of Kirkcaldy, 3J ESE of Burntisland, 4J NNE of
Leith, and 5| N by W of Portobello. In shape re-
sembling an irregular triangle with south-south-eastward
apex, it has an utmost length and breadth of 6| and 2
furlongs, and a summit altitude of 182 feet. Carlyle
describes it in his Ilcminisccnccs, having rowed over
from Kirkcaldy in 1817 with Edward Irving and one
Donaldson : — ' "We prosperously reached Inchkeith, ran
ourselves into a wild, stony little bay (W end of the
island towards the lighthouse), and stept ashore. Bay
in miniature was prettily savage, every stone in it,
big or little, lying just as the deluges had left them in
ages long gone. Whole island was prettily savage.
Grass on it mostly wild and scraggy, but equal to the
keep of seven cows. Some patches "(little bed-quilts as
it were) of weak dishevelled bai-ley trying to grow under
difficulties ; these, except perhaps a square yard or two
of potatoes equally ill oft', were the only attempt at
crop. Inhabitants none except these seven cows, and
the lighthouse-keeper and his family. Conies probably
abounded, but these were/crcE naiurce, and didn't show
face. In a slight hollow about the centre of the island
(which island I think is traversed by a kind of hollow
of which our little bay was the western end) were still
traceable some ghastly remains of " Russian graves,"
graves from a Russian squadron which had wintered
thereabouts in 1799, and had there buried its dead. . . .
The lighthouse was curious to us, the only one I ever
saw before or since. . . . Lighthouse-keeper, too, in
another sphere of enquiry was to me quite new ; by far
the most life -weary looking mortal I ever saw. Surely
no lover of the picturesque, for in nature there was
nowhere a more glorious view. A shrewd healthy
Aberdeen native, a kindly man withal, yet in every
feature of face and voice telling you, "Behold the
victim of unspeakable ennui." We got from him dov/n
below refection of the best, biscuits and new milk I
think almost better in both kinds than I have tasted
since. A man not greedy of money either. We left
him almost sorrowfully, and never heard of him more.
The scene in our little bay, as we were about proceeding
to launch our boat, seemed to me the beautifullest I
had ever beheld. Sun about setting just in face of us,
behind Ben Lomond far away. Eclinburgh with its
towers ; the great silver mirror of the Firth girt by such
a framework of mountains ; cities, rocks, and fields, and
wavy landscapes on all hands of us ; and reaching right
under foot, as I remember, came a broad pillar as of
gold from the just sinking sun ; burning axle as it were
going down to the centre of the world ! ' The geology
of Inchkeith is highly interesting ; and, when tlic tide
is low, the beds around its northern extremity and part
of its easterly side are as well displayed, as if pictured
and sectioned on a geological map. The new roads, too,
in connection with the fortifications cut the strata
diagonally, exposing fine sections by which the observa-
tions around the coast can be chocked. Five-sixths or
more of the island are great sheets of igneous rocks,
between which are thinner bands of sedimentary de-
posits, including shales, two thin seams of coal, some
highly calcareous shales, and at least one band of lime-
stone. Many of the shales are literally crammed with
fossil ostracodes and minute phyllofiods, amongst which
estheria arc abundant. The Jlora is rich, henbane and
sinajiis nigra being specially plentiful. A ])rehistoric
kitchen-midden was discovered in 1872 ; and on Inch-
keith Skene places Alauna, a town of tlie Otadeni, men-
tioned by Ptolemy in the 2d century a.d. This he
fui-ther identifies with Bcde's insular city of Giudi,
286

which in 650 Osuiu, King of Northumbria, was forced
by Penda, the pagan Mercian king, to ransom with all
the riches in it and the neighbouring region. Under
James IV., in 1497, many plague-smitten townsfolk of
Edinburgh were conveyed 'to the Inch, there to remain
till God provide for their health ; ' and James IV. it
was who had a dumb woman transported to the island,
where, being properly lodged and provisioned, two
infants were entrusted to her care, in order to discover,
by the language they should adopt, what was man's
primitive speech. The result proved highly satisfactory,
as, after allowing them a sufficient time, it was found
that 'they spak very guid Ebrew' ! In 1547, after the
battle of Pinkie, the English erected fortifications on
Inchkeith, and left there a strong garrison, composed
in part of a troop of Italian mercenaries ; but on Corpus
Christi Day, 1549, a combined force of French and
Scotch, under the Sieur D'Esse, embarked from Leith
at break of day in presence of the Queen Dowager,
and, after a fierce contest, expelled the enemy from
their stronghold, and compelled them to surrender at
discretion, with the loss of their leader and above 300
slain. From then till 1560 the island was garrisoned
by the French ; but James VI. 's first parliament (1567-
68) ordained ' that the fort of Inchkeith be demolished
and cast down utterly to the ground, and destroyed in
such wise that no fundament thereof be occasion to
build thereupon in time coming.' None the less, on
18 Aug. 1773 Dr Johnson here found a fort,* whose
remains were only removed when the lighthouse was
built in 1803. Rising to an elevation of 235 feet above
sea-level, and visible at a distance of 21 nautical miles,
the light of this lighthouse at first was stationary, but
in 1815 was changed to a revolving light, to distinguish
it from the fixed light on the Isle of Alay. In 1835,
again, it changed its reflecting for a dioptric character ;
and now it consists of seven annular lenses, which circu-
late round a lamp of three concentric wicks, and pro-
duce bright flashes once in every minute, and of five
rows of curved fixed mirrors, which serve to prolong the
duration of the flashes from the lenses. After twenty
years of suggestions and representations, the Govern-
ment resolved to fortify Inchkeith and Kinghorn Ness;
so, the island having been taken over from the Duke of
Buccleuch, three polygonal batteries were built in 1878-
81 on the three headlands. Connected one with the
other by a military road IJ mile long, they are yet
entirely isolated by ditches 20 feet deep and almost as
many broad, whilst their massive parapet walls rise 4^
feet above the floor of the interior. They are mounted
with four 18-ton guns, two for the S battery, and one
each for the N and NW batteries. The guns are fired
over the parapet, and not through embrasures or loop-
holes, being placed on a raised turret-shaped concrete
platform on the MoncrieS" principle, and run round on
swivels.— Oj-o?. Sur., sh. 32, 1857.

Inchkenneth, a grassy island of Kilfinichen and Kil-
vickcon parish, Argyllshire, at the entrance of Loch-na-
Keal, on the W side of Mull, 1;^ mile S by E of the
E end of Ulva. Measuring 1^ mile in length, and 3
furlongs in extreme breadth, it is low and fertile, and
took its name from Kenneth, a missionary of lona, who
became the head of Achabo Abbey in Ireland, and died
there in 600. Down to the Reformation it was held by
the monks of lona ; and it possesses toleraldy entire
ruins of a First Pointed church, built on the site of the

* ' In crossing the Firth,' says Boswell, ' Dr Johnson determined
that we should land upon Inchkcitli. On approaching it, we first
observed a high rocliy shore. We coasted about, and put into a
little bay on tlio NW. We clambered up a very steep ascent, on
which was veiy good grass, but rather a profusion of tliistlcs.
There were sixteen head of black cattle grazing upon the island.
Lord Hailes observed to me that IJrantomc calls it L'isledcsChevaux,
and that it was probably "a safer stable " than many others in hi3
time. The fort, with an inscription on it, Maria lie : 1564, is
strongly built. Dr Johnson examined it with much attention.
There are three wells in the island, but we could not find one in
the fort. . . . Dr Johnson said, "I'd ha\e this island; I'd
build a house, make a good landing-place, have a garden and
vines and all sorts of trees. A ricli man of a hospitable turu here
would iKive many visitors from Edinburgli."'

INCHLAW

Columlian cell, and measuring GO feet by 30, whither
Boswell retired at midnight to say his prayers, hut
speedily returned, being frightened by a ghost. Around
the ruins is a graveyard, containing the tombstones of
the Macleans of Brolas. In Oct. 1773, at the time of
Dr Johnson's pilgrimage to the Hebrides, Inchkenneth
belonged to Sir Allan Maclean, Bart., who resided on
it in what is described by Scott as a wretched and ex-
posed hut. Yet the Doctor, with Boswell, spent two
days under Sir Allan's roof, and by him and his two
daughters was entertained with such 'kindness of
hospitality and refinement of courtesy,' that he looked
on his sojourn with them as ' a proper prelude to lona,'
and commemorated it in a Latin poem, which Professor
Sir Daniel Sandford of Glasgow translated as follows : —

' Scarce spied amid tlie west sea foam,
Yet once Religion's cliosen home,
Appears tlie isle wliose savag-e race
By Kenneth's voice was won to grace.
O'er glassy tides I thither flew,
The wonders of the spot to view.
In lowly cottage great Maclean
Held there his high ancestral reign.
With daughters fair whom love might deem
The Naiads of the ocean stream :
Yet not in chilly cavern rude
Were they, like Danube's lawless brood ;
But all that charms a polish'd age.
The tuneful lyre, the learned page,
Combined to beautify and bless
That life of ease and loneliness.
Kow dawn'd the day whose holy light
Puts human ho]5es and cares to flight ;
Nor 'mid the hoarse waves' circling swell
Did worship here forget to dwell.
What though beneath a woman's hand
The sacred volume's leaves expand ;
No need of priestly sanction there —
The sinless heart makes holy prayer !
Then wherefore further seek to rove,
Wliile here is all our hearts approve —
Repose, security, and love ? '

Inchlaw or Lucklaw, a hill in the E end of Logic
parish, NE Fife, 4 miles S of Newport. It chiefly con-
sists of yellow felspar porphjTy, very hard, and suscep-
tible of a fine polish ; but its summit is composed of
flesh-red felspar. Said to have been a hunting-ground
of the Scottish kings, when residing at Falkland or St
Andrews, and therefore sometimes called the King's
Park, it rises to an altitude of 626 feet above sea-level,
and commands an extensive view, particularly towards
the N.— 0/-d Sur., sh. 49, 1865.

Inchlonaig, an island of Luss parish, Dumbarton-
shire, in Loch Lomond, 3 furlongs WNW of Strath-
cashell Point and 6J E of Luss village. Extending
from NE to SW, and measuring 1 by ^ mile, it is
covered over half its surface with a forest of j'ew trees,
said to have been planted by Robert Bruce to supply his
army with bows ; and it has long been used by the
Colquhouns of Luss as a deer park. — Orel. Sia:, sh. 38,
1871.

Inchmahome (Gael. ' island of my little Colman '),
the larger of the two islets in the Lake of Monteith,
Port of Monteith parish, SW Perthshire, 3| miles E by
S of Aberfojde and 5 fuidongs SW of Port of Monteith
village. With an utmost length and breadth of only
IJ and 1 furlong, it lies on the unruflJed water near
Inch Talla, level but ' plump with rich foliage, brood-
ing like great birds of calm. You somehow think of
them as on, not in the lake, or like clouds lying in a
nether sky — "like ships waiting for the wind." You
get a coble, and a yauld old Celt, its master, and are
rowed across to Inchmahome, the Isle of Rest. Here
you find on landing huge Spanish chestnuts, one lying
dead, others standing stark and peeled, like gigantic
antlers, and others flourishing in their viridis senedus ;
and in a thicket of wood you see the remains of a
monastery of great beauty, the design and workman-
ship exquisite. You wander through the ruins, over-
grown with ferns and Spanish filberts, and old fruit
trees, and at the corner of the old monkish garden you
come upon one of the strangest and most touching
sights you ever saw — an oval space of 18 feet by 12,
■with the remains of a double row of boxwood all round.

INCHMARNOCK

What is this ? It is called in the guide-books " Queen
Mary's Bower ; " but, besides its Ijcing plainly not in
the least a bower, what could the little Queen, then five
years old, and "fancy free," do with a bower? It is
plainly the Child-Queen's Garden, with her little walk,
and its rows of boxwood, left to themselves for three
hundred years. Yet, without doubt, "here is that fiirst
garden of her simpleness." Fancy the little, lovely
royal child, with her four Marys, her playfellows, her
child maids-of-honour, with their little hands and feet,
and their innocent and happy eyes, pattering about
that garden all that time ago, laughing, and running,
and gardening as only children do and can. As is well
known, Mary was placed by her mother in this Isle of
Rest' from soon after the battle of Pinkie, Sept. 1547,
till towards the end of the following February she left
for Dumbarton, thence to take ship to France. Thus
the author of FMb and his Friends ; and Mr Hutchison,
in Trans. Highl. andAg. Soc* (1879-80), more minutely
describes 'the quaint and simple arrangements of
this medieval garden — the three straggling boxwood
trees, evidently grown from the boxwood edgings of a
former oval flower-bed still discernible. They are 20^
feet high, and upwards of 3 in girth at 1 foot from the
ground, where they branch into several stems, the result
probably of early clipping. In the centre of the plot
is a quaint old thorn tree, 22 feet high, and 16 inches
in girth, but much destroyed by the prevalent west
winds which sweep across the island, and to whose in-
fluence it is much exposed.' In 1238 Walter Comyn,
Earl of Menteith, obtained authority from Pope Gregory
IX. to build an Augustinian priory on the island of
'Inchmaquhomok.' The church was dedicated to Col-
man, an Irish Pict, who founded the monastery of
Dromore in Ireland prior to 514. Robert Bruce was at
least three times at Inchmahome, in 1306, 1308, and
1310; and here in 1363 his son, David II., widower,
Avedded Margaret Logic, widow. First Pointed in style,
and measuring 115 feet by 36, the church consisted of a
three-bayed nave, a N aisle, an aisleless choir, and a
square four-storied bell-tower. The western doorway is
deeply recessed and richly sculptured ; and the choir
retains a piscina, sedilia, and an interesting though
mutilated monument {cuxa 1294) with recumbent
efSgies of Walter Stewart, Earl of Menteith, and his
Countess, his legs being crossed crusader- wise, and her
arm twined around his neck. S of the church are some
remains of the dormitory, refectory, and vaulted kitchen ;
but the cloisters in 1644 made way for an awkward
mausoleum, run hurriedly up to receive the corpse of
John Graham, Lord Kilpont, who was murdered in
Montrose's camp at CoUace by one of his ovra. vassals,
James Stewart of Ardvoirlich. Lord Kilpont's son, the
second and last Earl of Airth and Menteith, disposed ^
of Inchmahome to the Marquis of Montrose, with whose
descendant, the Duke, it still remains. — Ord. Sur., sh.
38, 1871. See Monteith ; the Rev. W. M. Stirling's
Notes, historical and descriptive, on the Priori/ of Inch-
mahomc (Edinb. 1815); Dr John Brown's 'Queen Mary's
Child-Garden,' in Horce. Suhsccivcc (Edinb. 1858); and
Dr William Eraser's F,.ed Booh of Menteith (2 vols.,
Edinb., 1880).

Inchmarlo, a mansion in Banchory-Ternan parish,
Kincardineshire, near the N bank of the Dee, \% mile
WNW of Banchory village. Its owner, Duncan David-
son, Esq. of Tillychetly \h. 1814 ; sue. 1849), holds 985
acres in Kincardineshire and 1422 in Aberdeenshire,
valued at £896 and £872 per annum.— 0?-^ Sii^r., sh.
66, 1871. . , ^

Inchmarnock, an island of North Bute parish, Bute-
shire, off the W side of the Isle of Bute, adjacent to
the meeting-point of the Kjdes of Bute, the Sound of
Bute, and 'Loch Fyne, 6^ furiongs W of St Ninian's
Point. Extending N and S, it lias an utmost length
and breadth of 2 miles and 5i furlongs, in the S attains

* Wliere he also gives the height of the largest sycamore,
Spanish chestnut, and walnut, all three near the western doorway
of the priory, as 80, 85, and SO feet, their girth at 1 foot from the
ground being 13|, 19§, and 10 feet,
b = » 287

INCHMAERIN

INELLAN

a summit altitude of 165 feet above sea-level, and grows
splendid crops of barley. It belonged anciently to the
monastery of Saddel in Kintyre ; and contains the site
of a small chapel, which was dedicated to St Marnock.
Pop. (1871) 30, (1881) 18.— On^. Sur., shs. 21, 29,
1870-73.

Inchmaxrin. See Inciimurrin.

Inchmartine House, a mansion in the NE corner of
Errol parish, Perthshire, 2^ miles NNW of Inchture
station. At Westown, 1 mile SW, stood the Church of
the Blessed Virgin of Inchmartine, a small, plain Gothic
building, which was anciently held by Coupar-Angus
Abbey, and which served as a sub-parochial place of
worsliip till the latter part of last century. Its burying-
ground continued to be in use till a much later period.
—Ord. Sur., sh. 48, 1868.

InchmiuTin, an island of Kilmaronock parish, Dum-
bartonshire, in Loch Lomond, 5^ furlongs WNW of the
Kilmaronock shore of the lake, and terminating 2| miles
N by W of Balloch pier. The largest and most southerly
of the isles in Loch Lomond, it forms, with Inchtorr
and Inclicailloch, a belt of islets from SW to NE, on a
straight line across the broadest part of the lake ; and
measures 1^ mile in length by 3§ furlongs in extreme
breadth. Beautifully wooded, it has long been used by
the Dukes of Montrose as a deer park ; and has, at its
SAV end, in a grove of venerable oaks, the ruins of an
ancient castle of the Earls of Lennox, where, after the
execution of her father, husband, and two sons, Isabella,
Duchess of Albany and Countess of Lennox, lived till
her death about 1460. Inchmurrin was visited by
James IV. in 1506, by James VI. in 1585 and 1617 ;
on 24 Sept. 1439 it was the scene of the treacherous
murder of Sir John Cohjuhoun and his attendants by a
party of Western Islanders. Near the castle, so late as
1724, might be seen the ruins of the chapel of St Mirin,
Paisley's patron saint, which gave the island its name.
—Ord. Sur., shs. 30, 38, 1866-71. See Dr William
Eraser's The Lennox (2 vols., Edinb., 1874).

Inchnadamph. See Assynt.

Inchoch Castle, an old baronial fortalice, once the
seat of the Hays of Lochloy, in Auldearn parish, Nairn-
shire, near the Highland railway, li mile NE of Auld-
earn village.

Inchparks. See Inch, AVigtownshire.

Inchrye Abbey, a modern mansion in Abdie parish,
NW Fife, near the NE shore of Lindores Loch, 3 miles
SE of Newburgh. Built at a cost of £12,000, in the
Gothic style, with a verandah, battlements, and turrets,
it has charming grounds, with lawns, meadows, and
woods, fringing the lake. — Ord. Stir., sh. 48, 1868.

Inchtavannach or Monk's Island, an islet of Luss
parish, Dumbartonshire, in Loch Lomond, 1 furlong
Iroin the western shore, and 7 furlongs SSE of Luss
village. Extending from N to S, it has an utmost
length andjbreadth of 7 J and 3 furlongs, and in the N rises
steeply to 200 feet above sea-level. It is covered with
natural oak wood, and anciently contained a monastery.
Coleridge, Wordsworth, and his sister, Dorothy, visited
it on 25 Aug. 1S03.— Ord. Sur., sh. 38, 1871.

Inchterf, a hamlet, on a ciuondam island, in the SW
corner of Kilsyth parish, Stirlingshire, 2| miles ESE
of Milton of Campsie.

Inchtorr or Torrinch, a wooded islet (3 x § furl.)
of Kilmaronock parish, Dumbartonshire, in Loch Lomond,
70 yards SW of Inchcailloch, and 1 mile NE of the
north-eastern extremity of Inchmurrin. — Ord. Sur., sh.
38, 1871.

Inchture, a village and a parish in the Carse of Gowrie,
Perthshire. The village stands 1| mile N by W of
Inchture station on the Dundee and Perth section of
the Caledonian, this being 7i miles WSW of Dundee,
and 14 E by N of Perth. Occupying the crown of
a rising-ground, anciently an island, it was originally
called Innis-tuir (Gael. ' island of the tower ') ; and it
overlooks a luxuriant expanse of circumjacent carse
lands, and presents a jileasant appearance. At it are a
post office, with money order, savings' bank, and tele-
graph departments, an inn, and a large brewery.
288

The parish, since 1670 comprising the ancient parishes
of Inchture and Rossie, is bounded NAV by Abernyte,
NE and E by Longforgan, SE by the Firth of Tay, SAV
by Errol, and W by Kinnaird. Its utmost length, from
NNAA'' to SSE, is 4^ miles ; its breadth varies between
7^ furlongs and 2J miles ; and its area is 5328^ acres,
of which 1199^ are foreshore and 6 water. One
brook, rising and running \\ mile in the interior, traces
for 2^ miles the boundary with Errol, till, being joined
from that parish by a larger brook than itself, it forms
at Powgavie a small but not unimportant harbour on
the firth ; whilst Huntly Burn, coming down from the
NW, traces for 3;^ miles the north-eastern and eastern
border, and then diverges into Longforgan. The shore-
line, 9 furlongs long, is low ; and for 3 miles inland the
surface is all but a dead-level, nowhere exceeding 34 feet,
and forming part of the rich alluvial flat of the Carse of
Gowrie. Then it begins to rise, till it attains 559 feet
at Hilltowu of Ballindean and 567 at wooded Rossie
Hill — heights that command delightful views of water
and hill scenery. Trap-rock prevails in the hills ; red
sandstone and good limestone are found in the lower
grounds ; and all have been quarried. A^'eins of copper
occur, but have never been worked. The soil, on the
carse lands, is rich argillaceous alluvium ; on the undula-
tory tracts, is a fertile loam ; and, on much of Rossie,
is gravelly or sandy. Nearly 500 acres are under wood;
and several himdred acres are land reclaimed from the
firth. The chief antiquities are the ruins of Moncur
Castle and of Rossie church, and a cross on the site of the
quondam village of Rossie. Mansions are Rossie Priory
and Ballindean House, both separately noticed ; and
most of the property is divided among three. Inchture
is in the presbytery of Dundee and synod of Angus and
Mearns ; the stipend and communion-elements are re-
turned at £311, 16s. 9d. The church, at Inchture
village, is a neat Gothic edifice of 1834, containing 550
sittings. A public school, with accommodation for 186
children, had (1881) an average attendance of 105, and
a grant of £99, 3s. 6d. Valuation (1866) £7569, (1883)
£8065, 5s. 7d. Pop. (1801) 949, (1831) 878, (1871) 659,
(1881) 650.— 0«;. Sur., sh. 48, 1868.

Inchtuthil, a tract of 200 acres in Caputh parish,
Perthshire, on the left bank of the river Taj', 2^ miles
p] by S of Caputh church, and 7^ ESE of Dunkeld.
Forming a flat oblong plateau, which rises steeply on
all sides to an elevation of 60 feet above the level of the
surrounding plain of Stormont, it is identified by Dr
Skene as the site of Tamea, a frontier town of the
A^acomagi. It had on its NE border a Roman camp,
500 yards square, whose stone walls, 9^ feet thick, have
for a century or more been almost levelled by the plough,
and to the SE of which were two tumuli and a redoubt —
now distinguished by a group of trees. Inchtuthil,
moreover, is said to have been part of the laud granted
by Kenneth III. to Hay, for his bravery at the battle of
LuNCARTY. — Ord. Sur., sh. 48, 1868.

Inchyra, a village and a mansion in a detached section
of Kinnoull parish, SE Perthshire. The village stands
on the left bank of the river Tay, 1 mile SAV of Glen-
carse station on the Dundee and Perth section of the
Caledonian, and 5 miles ESE of Perth. It has a good
harljour, wliich admits vessels of considerable burden,
and a ferry communicating with Fingask in Rhynd
parish. Incliyra House, f mile N by E of the village,
is a handsome edifice in the Grecian style, with finely
wooded grounds. — Ord. Sur., sh. 48, 1868.

Inellan, a village and a quoad sacra parish in Dunoon
jiarish, Argyllshire. Tlie village stands on the coast of
the Firth of Clyde, 3| miles S by AV of Dunoon town.
Founded in 1843, it has risen, from a cluster of villas
around a castellated hotel, to rank as a fashionable
watering-place, which, extending more than a mile along
the shore, is backed by CJarrowchorran Hill (1113 feet),
Corlarach Hill (1371), Beinn Ruadh (1057), and Inellan
Hill (935). It enjoys abundant facilities of coniiiinnica-
tiou through the Glasgow and Rothesay steamers ; and
has a post oflice under Greenock, with money order,
savings' bank, ami telegraph departments, a branch of

INGANESS

the Clydesdale Bank, a steam-boat pier, gas and water
works, a spacious hotel, a bowling-green, a horticultural
society, a public school, an Established church, a Free
I'liurch, a U.P. church, and St Margaret's Episcopal
church, a Gothic edifice of 1875. The Established
church was built nearly 50 years ago as a chapel of ease
at a cost of £1100. The quoad sacra parish, constituted
in 1873, is in the presbytery of Dunoon and synod of
Argyll; its minister's stipend is £350. Pop. of village
(18>1) 605, (1881) 859 ; of q. s. parish (1881) 1061.—
Ord. Sur., sh. 29, 1873.

Inganess, a bay on the E side of Pomona, Orkney,
projecting south-westward between the parishes of Kirk-
wall and St Andrews. It opens 3 miles ESE of the
entrance of Kirkwall Bay ; is flanked, on the NW side,
by Inganess Head ; measures 45 miles in length, and
from J to 1| mile in breadth ; expands to its greatest
breadth in its middle parts ; has a depth of from 2J to
12 fathoms ; and forms a fine natural harbour for vessels
of any size.

Inglismaldie, a seat of the Earl of Kintore in Mary-
kirk parish, SW Kincardineshire, within ^ mile of the
Korth Esk's left bank, and 6 miles SWof Laurencekirk.
An old castellated edifice, it was inhabited by the Earl's
ancestors, the Barons Falconer of Halkerton, and is
surrounded with extensive woods.

Ingliston House, a Scottish Baronial mansion of 1846
in the Edinburghshire section of Kirkliston parisli, 2
miles N of Ratho. Its finely-wooded grounds contain
an old limetree ('Wallace's Switch'), which girths 23
feet at 3 feet from the ground. — Ord. Sur., sh. 32, 1857.

Inhallow. See Enhallow.

Inhouse, a village close to Mossbank, in Delting parish,
Shetland.

Inish. See Inch.

Inishail, a heathy islet and an ancient parish in Lorn
district, Argyllshire. The island, with an utmost length
and breadth of 3 and If furlongs, lies in the lower part
of Loch Awe, 2^ miles SSW of Loch Awe station and
pier and 4^ furlongs WNW of Cladich pier. In 1857
the celebrated etcher, Mr Philip Gilbert Hamerton, en-
camped upon Inishail ; and five years later he published
two volumes entitled A Painter's CamjJ in the Highlands,
and Thoughts about Art. Inishail had much celebrity
in the Middle Ages as the site of a small Cistercian
nunnery, which is said to have been distinguished by
freedom from the evils that characterised many of the
institutions of its class, and whose property was con-
veyed, at the Reformation, to Hay, the Protestant ex-
abbot of Inchaffray. It is still represented by some
remains of its chapel. The parish church was in use
from the Reformation till it was superseded by a new
church (1773 ; 250 sittings) on the shore, 5 miles SW of
Dalmally. Its burying-ground was speciall_y used by the
clan Macarthur, who formerly inhabited the shores of
the lower part of Loch Awe, and contains numerous
ancient carved tombstones, with insignia and devices
of Crusaders, knights, warriors, ecclesiastics, and a peer.
The parish, united to Glenorchy in 1618, occasions the
present parish of Glenorchy to be formally designated
Glenorchy and Inishail ; embraces the islands, waters,
and flanks of much of the lower part of Loch Awe ;
contains the mansions of Ardvrecknisli, New Inverawe,
and Inclidrynich ; and shares with Glenorchy proper
the alternate Sabbath services of the parish minister. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 45, 1876.

Inishchonell, a beautiful islet of Kilehrenan and Dala-
vich parish, Argyllshire, in Loch Awe, 8 miles NE of
the head of the lake, and 5 furlongs ESE of Dalavich
church. Here, from the 11th century, the ancestors of
the Duke of Argyll had their stronghold, Ardchonnel
Castle, now a picturesque ivy-mantled ruin ; hence they
maintained a long and arduous struggle with surround-
ing clans ; and hence they often sent forth their famous
slogan or defiant war-shout, 'It's a far cry to Lochow.'
—Ord. Sur., sh. 37, 1876.

Inishdrynich. See Inchdrynich.

Inisherrich or Innis-Seanamhacli, an islet of Kil-
ehrenan and Dalavich parish, Argyllshire, in Loch

INNERKIP

Awe, 5^ furlongs SSW of Inishchonell. It contains
a ruined chapel, with an ancient burying-ground.

Inishfraoch. See Fraoch Eilean.

Inishkenneth. See Inchkenneth.

Inishnadamph. See Assynt.

Inistrynich House. See Inchdrynich.

Inkerman, a village in Abbey parish, Renfrewshire,
2 miles AVNW of Paisley. It was founded about 1858
in connection with the working of ironstone mines.
Pop. (1871) 723, (1881) 948.

Innellan. See Inellan.

Inneravon, a tract of land contiguous to the mouth
of tlie river Avon in Borrowstounness parish, Linlithgow-
shire. A remarkable bed of oyster and other shells
exists beneath a bank, from the seaward side of this
tract to the vicinity of Kinneil House, and a Roman
station is tliought by some antiquaries to have stood
here. A castle of Inneravon or Inveravyne, mentioned
in the Auchinleck chronicle of James II., is supposed
to have occupied the site of the Roman station ; and
an old ruin which still stands here may have been one
of the corner towers of that castle.

Inneravon, Banflfshire. See Inveravon.

Innerchadden. See Innerhadden.

Innerdale. See Endrick.

Innergellie House, a modern mansion in Kilrenny
parish, Fife, l\ mile NE of Anstruther. Its owner,
Edwin Robert John Sandys-Lumsdaine, Esq. of Blanerne
(b. 1864 ; sue. 1873), holds 428 acres in Fife and 2603
in Berwickshire, valued at £1182 and £2364 per annum.
—Ord. Sur., sh. 41, 1857.

Innerhadden House, a mansion in Fortingall parish,
NW Perthshire, at the foot of a high, mural, romantic
rock overlooking the E end of Loch Rannoch, 7 furlongs
SE of Kinloch Rannoch. A spot near it was the starting
point of a successful skirmish of Robert Bruce against
the English.

Innerkip, a village and a coast parish of W Renfrew-
shire. The village lies, completely buried among trees,
on the left bank of the Kip, 3 furlongs above its influx
to the Firth of Clyde and | mile NNE of Innerkip
station on the Greenock and Wemyss Bay railway, this
being 2^ miles N by E of Wemyss Bay, 5^ SW of Upper
Greenock, and 28^ W by N of Glasgow. A little place,
consisting chiefly of two long rows of houses on either
side of the turnpike road, it has a post office under
Greenock, an hotel, a gas company, a plain parish church
(1803 ; 600 sittings) with clock-tower and spire, a Free
church, and St Patrick's Roman Catholic church (1875 ;
130 sittings), whilst 7 furlongs to the N is the Episcopal
church of St Michael and All Angels, the private chapel
of the Shaw-Stewarts, whose mausoleum is in the old
burying-ground. Innerkip was made a burgh of barony
before the Union, with the right of holding three annual
fairs ; was often known as Auld Kirk after the erection of
the first chm'ch at Greenock (1592) ; and is memorable
in connection with the witchcraft trials of 1662, already
noticed under Gourock, and fully described in Sir
George Mackenzie's Witches of Renfrewshire (1678 ; new
ed., Paisley, 1878). The original parish churcli was
granted to Paisley Abbey soon after its foundation in
1169, and was held by the monks down to the Reforma-
tion. Pop. of village (1861) 449, (1871) 637, (1881)
580.

The parish, containing also the town of Gourock and
the stations of Ravenscraig and Wemyss Bay, is
bounded W and N by the Firth of Clyde, E by
Greenock, SE by Kilmalcolm, and S by Largs in Ayr-
shire. Its utmost length, from N to S, is 5\ miles ; its
utmost width, from E to W, is 4| miles ; and its area
is 13,2374 acres, of which 279 are foreshore and 409
water. The coast-line, 9-^ miles long, is fringed by the
narrow low platform of the firth's old sea-margin, and
slightly indented by Gourock, West, Lunderston, Inner-
kip, and Wemyss Bays ; its special features are treated
under Gourock, Clocii Point, and AVemyss. Inland
the surface ri.ses somewhat steeply to 478 feet at Barr
Hill, 610 at Borneven Hill, 701 at White Hill, 907 at
Leap Moor, 936 at Dunrod Hill, 910 at Scroygy Bank,

289

INNERLEITHEN

and 1446 at Creuch Hill, whose summit, liowever, falls
within Kilmalcolm. Loch Thorn (If x ^ mile) and four
or iive smaller reservoirs of the Greenock "Waterworks
lie close to the eastern border ; Kelly Burn flows 3|
miles west-south-westward to the firth along most of
the Ayrshire boundary ; and the Kip winds 4 miles
westward through the interior, by the way receiving
Spango and Datf Bums, the latter of which, from its
source upon Leap Moor, hurries li mile north-north-
westward along a rocky, richly-wooded glen. The
landscape generally is very charming ; and the views
from the higher grounds are grand beyond description.
The predominant rocks are Igneous and Upper Old Red
sandstone. Craigmuschat quarry, near Gourock, for up-
wards of sixty years has yielded abundance of porphj-ritic
greenstone, well adapted for paving ; good building
material is furnished by the sandstone, and excellent
road-metal by dykes of trap. The soil is light and
sandy along the' shore, moister and verging to red
gravel on the higher arable grounds, and moorish or
moss on the uplands. Rather more than a third of the
entire area is in tillage ; 550 acres are under wood ; and
nearly all the remainder is either pasture or waste.
The chief antiquities are noticed under Akdgowais,
DuNROD, GoTTROCK, and Levex. Mansions, also
noticed separately, are Akdgowan, Gotjeock House,
Kelly House, and Levex Castle ; and 5 proprietors
hold each an annual value of £500 and upwards, 46 of
between £100 and £500, 85 of from £50 to £100, and
71 of from £20 to £50. Including nearly the whole of
Gourock quoad sacra parish and a portion of that of
Skelmorlie, Innerkip is in the presbj'terj' of Greenock
and synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; the living is worth
£390. A public school, with accommodation for 229
children, had (ISSl) an average attendance of 118, and
a grant of £117, 4s. Valuation (1860) £21,973, (1883)
£52,588, 16s. Pop. (1801) 1367, (1831) 2088, (1861)
3495, (1871) 4502, (1881) 5359, of whom 899 were in the
ecclesiastical parish.— Ord Sur., shs. 29, 30, 1873-66.
See Gardner's Wemyss Bay, Inmrkip, and Largs {'^aSslty,
1879).

Innerleithen, a town in E Peeblesshire, and a parish
partly also in Selkirkshire. The town stands 479 feet
above sea-level, on Leithen "Water, \ mile NXE of its
influx to the Tweed, and has a station on the Peebles
and Galashiels section of the K'orth British, 6^ miles
ESE of Peebles, 12^ "W of Galashiels, and 33^ S by E
of Edinburgh. A ' quiet, pretty watering-place, it is
situated in the wide, meadowy valley of the Tweed,
environed by high, round, green hills ; and has a main
street of rather new, good-looking houses, with an
older street extending up a hill-crest to the well.' It
was a mere kirk-hamlet from the middle of the 12th
century do^vn to 1790, when a woollen factory was
started at it by Alexander Brodie, a Traquair black-
smith who had made a large fortune in London. About
the same period, too, its medicinal saline spring, and
the healthiness of its climate, began to attract invalids
and tourists ; and it acquired much celebrity by the
general identification of that spring with the ' St
Ronan's "Well" of Sir "Walter Scott's romance (1824).
Further causes of its well-being have been the institu-
tion of annual games by the St Ronan's Border Club
(1827) ; the attractions it offers to anglers as a con-
venient centre for fishing the waters of the Leithen, the
Tweed, and the Quair, even of the Yarrow and St Mary's
Loch ; and the great extension of its woollen industry
since 1839. Besides some good shops and lodging-
houses, Innerleithen now has a post office, with money-
order, savings' bank, and telegraph departments, a
branch of the Bank of Scotland, a National Security
savings' bank, 7 insurance agencies, 2 hotels, gasworks, re-
cent drainage and water works, a volunteer hall, and a pub-
lic hall. Having adopted certain clauses of the General
Police and Improvement Act (Scotland) in 1869, it is
governed by a chief magistrate and a body of i)olicc
commissioners. The medicinal spring, rising on the
skirt of Lee Pen at an elevation of 200 feet above the
town, and at a short distance to the "W, in 1826 was
290

INNERLEITHEN

furnished with a verandahed pump-house, containing
subscription reading-rooms. In every gallon of its
water are 216 "72 grains of chloride of sodium, 148 '16 of
chloride of calcium, 16-17 of chloride of magnesium,
1"15 of sulphate of magnesia, 5 '03 of carbonate of lime,
etc., this being the stronger of the two streams into
which the spring branches. It is in high repute for
ophthalmic, scorbutic, bilious, and dyspeptic complaints.
As stated already, the earliest woollen mill was built in
1790 at a cost of £3000, but it did not come into fairly
successful operation till 1839, when steam was added to
the original water-power from the Leithen. Since 1845
four other woollen mills have been erected at Inner-
leithen itself, and two at the neighbouring village of
"Walkerburn ; and the seven factories together have 29
sets of cardiug-machines, 264 hand and power looms,
and 18,708 spindles. They use about 960,000 lbs. of
wool a yetr; turn out tweeds, tartans, blankets, etc.,
to an annual value of over £200,000; and employ
above 700 workpeople, paying £24,000 of wages a year.
The parish church was built in 1870, and contains 800
sittings. A Free church was enlarged in 1878, when
also a Gothic U.P. church, with 600 sittings, was built
at a cost of over £2000. St James's Roman Catholic
church (1881 ; 300 sittings) is in the Early Gothic style
of the 14th century, and has a tower and spire 97 feet
high. A handsome school in connection with it was
built in 1876. The municipal constituencj'' numbered
477 in 1883, when the annual value of real property
within the burgh was £7605. Pop. (1841) 463, (1851)
1236, (1861) 1130, (1871) 1605, (1881) 2313. Houses
(1881) 469 inhabited, 18 vacant, 29 building.

The parish, containing also the stations of "Walker-
burn and Thornilee, Ij and 5 miles E of Innerleithen,
comprises all the ancient parish of Innerleithen and
about one-third of that of Kailzie. It is bounded N by
Temple and Heriot in Edinburghshire, E by Stow, S b}-
Traquair and Yarrow (detached), and W by Peebles and
Eddleston. Its utmost length, from "W by N to S by E,
is S| miles ; its utmost breadth, from N by W to S by E,
is 7g miles ; and its area is 24,122| acres, of which 3578|
belong to Selkirkshire, and 141 are water. A tract of
836^ acres, belonging to the Selkirkshire section, lies
detached 3 furlongs E of the main body of the county.
The river Tweed sweeps 11 1 miles east-by-southward
along all the southern border ; Leithen AVater, its
afliuent, rising in the extreme N"W at an altitude of
1750 feet, runs 9| miles south-south-eastward through
all the interior, in a line a little "W of the middle ; and
numerous burns flow either to the Leithen or the Tweed.
Along the latter stream is a belt of very rich haugh ;
another extends for 3 or 4 mUes up the lower course
of the Leithen ; a narrow border of low land fringes
parts of the channels of some of the burns ; and all the
rest of the parish is part of the broad hill range called
commonly the Southern Highlands, and presents, for
the most part, a rounded and grassy appearance.
AVhere, below Thornilee station, the Tweed quits Inner-
leithen, the surface declines to 410 feet above sea-level,
and rises thence northward or north-north-westward to
1634 feet at Cairn Hill, 1802 at Priesthope Hill, 2161
at *Windlestraw Law, 2038 at "Whitehope Law, 1647 at
Lee Pen, 1708 at Black Knowe, and 2136 at *Blackhope
Scar, asterisks marking those summits that culminate
on the eastern or just beyond the northern boundary.
Dorothy AVordsworth thus describes the scenery, as
viewed from the Tweed's valley, down which she drove
with her brother on Sunday, 18 Sept. 1803 :—' The
lines of the hills are flowing and beautiful, the reaches
of the vale long ; in some places appear the remains
of a forest, in others you will see as lovely a com-
bination of forms as any traveller who goes in search
of the picturesque need desire, and yet perhaps with-
out a single tree ; or at least if trees there are, they
shall be very few, and he shall not care whether they
are there or not. . . . The general effect of the
gently- varying scenes was that of tender pensiveness ;
no bursting torrents when we were there, but the mur-
muring of the river was heard distinctly, often blended

INNERLEVEN

with the bleating of sheep. In one place we saw a shep-
herd lying in the midst of a flock upon a sunny knoU,
with his face towards the sky — happy picture of shepherd
life.' The predominant rocks are Silurian, with some
porphyries and clay slate ; and they have yielded
detritus favourable to vegetation. The soil of the
haughs is alluvial ; on the banks of some of the
burns is a gravelly loam ; and on the hills consists of
the disintegrated native rocks. A hard, dark-coloured
porphyry has been much worked for curling-stones ; the
fissile greywacke of Holylee has been employed for
tessellated pavement ; and a clay slate was at one time
•worked at Thornilee for roofing. Barely one-eleventh
of the entire area is regularly or occasionally in tillage ;
plantation covers some 500 acres ; and the rest is either
sheep-walk or waste. The principal antiquities, besides
the site or vestiges of five peel-towers, are the oval hill-
forts of Caerlee and Pirn, 400 and 350 feet in length ;
the Purvis-hill Terraces, twelve to fourteen in number ;
and the ruined castle of Nether Horsburgh. The last
is noticed separately, as also are the mansions of Glex-
ORMiSTON and Holylee. Six proprietors hold each an
annual value of £500 and upwards, 9 of between £100
and £500, 8 of from £50 to £100, and 47 of from £20
to £50. Giving off a portion to Caddonfoot quoad sacra
parish, Innerleithen is in the presbytery of Peebles and
synod of Lothian and Tweeddale ; the living is worth
£385. Three pubUc schools — Innerleithen, Leithenhope,
and "Walkerbum — with respective accommodation for
283, 32, and 236 children, had (1881) an average attend-
ance of 227, 10, and 158, and grants of £183, £23, 6s.,
and £125, 5s. Valuation (1860) £9616, (1881) £19,423,
including £1202 for the Selkirkshire portion. Pop.
(1801) 609, (1831) 810, (1861) 1823, (1871) 2812, (1881)
3661, of whom 61 were in Selkirkshire, and 3636 in the
ecclesiastical parish. — Orel. Sur., shs. 24, 25, 1864-65.

Innerleven. See Dubbieside.

Innermessan, a farm in Inch parish, Wigtownshire,
on the E shore of Loch Kj'an, 2\ miles NE of Stranraer.
It contains the site of a mediseval town and an extant
ancient moat. An ancient town is supposed to have
preceded the mediaeval one, and now is commonly
identified with Rerigonium, a seat of the Caledonian
tribe Novantse, mentioned by Ptolemy in the 2d century
A.D. (See Beregoniusi. ) The mediaeval town is said
by Symson (1684) to have been ' of old the most con-
siderable place in the Rhinns of Galloway, and the
greatest town thereabout, till Stranraer was built ; ' but
now it is represented by only a tiny hamlet. Inner-
messan Castle, whose site is occupied by the neat farm-
house, was built by the first Sheriff Agnew of Lochnaw
on grounds granted to him by royal charter of 1429, and
continued to be inhabited till towards the close of the
17th century. Innermessan Moat, a circular, artificial
mound, once surrounded by a fosse, measures 336 feet
in circumference round the base, 78 in sloping ascent,
and 60 in vertical elevation. Its flat summit, which com-
mands a fine view, was bored in 1834, and then was
found to contain a stratum of ashes, charred wood,
and fragments of bone. — Orel. Sur., sh. 3, 1856.

Innerpeffrey, a castle in the detached section of ilonzie
parish, Perthshire, on the left bank of the river Earn,
If mile SSE of Innerpeffrey station on the Perth,
Methven, and Crieft" branch of the Caledonian, this
being 21 miles ESE of Crieff". Built about 1610 by
James Drummond, first Lord Madderty, it is now a
ruin, though the outer walls, the staircase, and some of
the rooms are fairly entire. Innerpetfrey Chapel, |
mile nearer the station, since 1508 has been the burying-
place of the noble family of Drummond ; close hx it is
an endowed school ■with a library, founded in 1691 with
a bequest of David, third Lord Madderty. The library
contains between 2000 and 3000 volumes, among them
some black-letter works, and a small French Bible of
1632, bearing the autograph of the great Marquis of
Montrose.— CrfZ. Sur., sh. 47, 1869.

Innertiel. See Ixvertiel.

Innerwick, a village and a coast parish of E Hadding-
tonshire. The village stands 300 feet above sea-level,

INNES HOUSE

at the base of a steep cultivated hill, \\ mile W by S of
Innerwick station on the North British railway, this being
4 miles ESE of Dunbar, under which it has a post office.
The parish, containing also the small harbour of
Skateraw, is bounded MW by Dunbar, NE by the
German Ocean, SE by Oldhamstocks, S by Long-
formacus in Berwickshire, and AV by a detached section
of Stenton and by the main body of Spott. Irregular
in outline, it has an utmost length from NNE to SSW
of 10 miles, a varying breadth of 1:^ and 32 miles, and
an area of 13,424| acres, of which 267 are foreshore.
The coast, measured along its indentations, has a
length of 2:^ miles, and it presents a tamely rugged
and rocky appearance. An upland watershed bisects
the parish nearly through the middle ; and sends off
Thornton Burn and other streamlets east-north-east-
ward to the German Ocean, and Monynut AVater and
other sti'eamlets south-south-eastward into Berwickshire
towards the Whitadder. About two-thirds of the entire
surface, comprising a portion ENE of the watershed
and all the sections from the watershed to the southern
boundary, are parts of the Lammermuir Hills, and
present an upland, bleak, and desolate appearance ; the
loftier summits here from N to S being Blackca.stle
Hill (917 feet), Cocklaw HiU (1046), Bransby HiU
(1300), and Peat Law (1209). A series of ravines, inter-
secting the east-north-eastern declivities of the hills,
exhibits pleasing features of verdure and wood, and
overlooks charming prospects towards the ocean, whilst
a luxuriant and very fertile plain lies all between the
foot of these ravines and the shore, and is embellished
in three jilaces with plantation. The rocks are prin-
cipally Silurian and Devonian, but partly carboniferous ;
and they include abundance of sandstone and limestone,
with some ironstone, bituminous shale, and thin seams
of coaL About four-ninths of the land are regularly or
occasionally in tillage ; plantations cover some 350
acres ; and the rest is either pastoral or waste. Inner-
wick Castle, now a ruin, on a steep eminence overhang-
ing a rocky glen, 1 mile E of Innerwick village, from
the Stewarts passed to the Hamiltons, and was captm-ed
and demolished in 1548 by the Duke of Somerset during
his invasion of Scotland. Thornton Castle, crowning
an eminence on the other side of the glen, opposite
Innerwick Castle, was a stronghold of Lord Home, and
suffered the same fate from the same hands as Innerwick
Castle, like which it is now a ruin. A bridge called
Edinkens, a little S of these two castles, has been
associated variously with the names of King Edwin
of Northumbria and King Edward of England, and now
is represented by slight remains. Four ancdent standing
stones formerly stood near that bridge ; two stone
coffins, containing a dagger and a ring, were found in
a field near Dryburn Bridge ; and a place called Corse-
kill Park, near Innerwick village, is alleged to have
been the scene of an encounter between Cospatrick and
Sir William Wallace. An ancient chapel dedicated to
St Dennis stood on the Skateraw shore, but has utterly
' disappeared. Thurston, noticed separately, is the chief
residence ; and 4 proprietors hold each an annual value
of £500 and upwards, 3 of between £100 and £500, 1 of
from £50 to £100, and 2 of from £20 to £50. Innerwick
is in the presbytery of Dunbar and synod of Lothian
and Tweeddale ; the living is worth £360. The parish
church, standing on an eminence in Innerwick village,
is a very plain structure of 1784. There is also a Free
church ; and a public school, with accommodation for
76 children, had (1881) an average attendance of 39,
and a grant of £24, 7s. Valuation (1879) £12,605, 5s.,
(1883) £11,425, 12s. Pop. (1801) 846, (1831) 987,
(1861) 937, (1871) 892, (1881) Til.—Ord. Sur., sh.
33, 1863.

Innerwick, Perthshire. See Glexlyon.

Innes House, a seat of the Earl of Fife, in Urquhart
parish, Elginshire, 6 miles NE of Elgin. Built in
1640-53 from designs by William Aitoun (the architect
probably of Heriot's Hospital), and greatly improved
about 1825, it consists of two four-story wings and a
massive square tower, with a neat private chapel, some

INNIS

good paintings, beautiful gardens, and a fine broad
avenue. Tlie barony of lunes was held by the Inneses
from the latter half of the 12th century till 1767, when
Sir James Innes, sixth Bart, since 1625, who in 1812
succeeded to the dukedom of Roxburghe, sold it to James,
second Earl of Fife— Orel. Sur., sh. 95, 1876. See Duff
House, and vol. iii. of Billings' Baronial Antiqitities
(1852).

Innis. See Inch.

InnischonneL See Inishchonnel.

Iimisdr3Tiich. See Inchdryxich.

Inniserrich. See Ixlsherrich.

Innisfraoch. See Fraoch Eileak.

Innishail. See Inishail.

Inniskenneth. See Inchkexketu.

Innocents Howe, a hollow in a moor in Urquhart
jxirish, Elginshire, H mile E of the parish church.
Tradition says that, "during a Danish invasion, the
native women and chihh-en took refuge in this hollow,
but were discovered and put to death by the Danes.

Inord, Loch. See Ainort.

Insch, a village and a parish in Garioch district, NW
Aberdeenshire. The village stands, 406 feet above sea-
level, at the southern extremity of the parish, h, mile N
by E of Insch station on the Great North of Scotland
railway, this being 13^ miles SE of Huntly, 7 WNW of
Inveramsay Junction, and 27i NW of Aberdeen. A
burgh of barony, under the Leith-Hays of Leith Hall,
it has a post office, with money order, savings' bank,
and railway telegraph departments, branches of the
North of Scotland and the Aberdeen Town and
County Banks, a National Security savings' bank, a
penny^bank, 7 insurance agencies, 2 hotels, a gas com-
pany, a public hall, a police station, the parish church, a
Free church, a Congregational church, a horticultural
society, cattle fairs on the fourth ]\Iouday of every month,
and hii-ing fairs on the Fridays before 18 May and 18
Nov. The parish church, containing 500 sittings, was
built in 1613, and rebuilt in 1883. Pop. (1841) 215,
(1861) 411, (1871) 533, (1881) 579.

The parish is bounded N by Drumblade and Forgue,
E by Culsalmond, SE by Oyne and Premnay, SW by
Leslie and Kennethmont, and W by Kennethmont and
Gartly. Its utmost length, from N to S, is 4g miles ;
its utmost breadth, from E to W, is 3§ miles ; and its
area is 837I5 acres, of which 1| are water. The Shevock
curves 5 miles east-by-southward along all the south-
western and south-eastern boundary, passing oif from
this parish 1§ mile above its confluence with the Ury ;
and the Ury itself, here sometimes known as Glen Water,
flows 2| miles eastward through Glen Foudland along
all the northern border ; whilst several rills of sufficient
volume to drive a threshing-machine drain the interior.
Tlie land is a diversity of hill and dale, sinking in the
SE to 380 feet above sea-level, and rising thence to 876
feet at conical Dunnideer, 800 at Candle Hill, 622 at
Knockenbaird, and 1529 at the Hill of Foudland. Clay
slate, of excellent roofing quality, was at one time largely
quarried on Foudland ; gneiss and granite are the pre-
dominant rocks in the lower hills ; and bog iron occurs
in considerable quantities in the low grounds adjacent
to Dunnideer. "rhe soil of the low grounds is mostly a
light loam, on the slopes of Foudland is a light clay,
and on its higher parts is moss or heath. About one-
third of the entire area is pastoral or waste ; plantations
cover some 50 acres ; and all the rest of the parish is
under cultivation. The chief antiquity is noticed under
DuxNinr.KR ; otliers being a mound or rising-ground
called the Gallow Hill near Inscli village, and some
Caledonian standing-stones ; wliilst the fragment of a
' Eoman sword ' and some links of a very rude gold chain
have been found on "Wantnnwells farm. Drumrossie, a
little E of the village, is the only mansion ; but 5 pro-
]irietors hold each an annual value of £500 and upwards,
2 of between £100 and £500, 3 of from £50 to £100, and
6 of from £20 to £50. Insch is in the jiresbytery of
Garioch and synod of Aberdeen ; the living is worth
£309. Three public schools — Glen Foudland, Insch,
and Largie — with respective accommodation for 64, 184,
292

INVERARITY

and 128 children, had (1881) an average attendance of
43, 202, and 71, and grants of £32, 13s., £139, 6s., and
£52, lis. Valuation (1860) £6542, (1882)£9596, 12s. 4d. ,
2}lus £258 for railway. Pop. (1801) 798, (1831) 1338,
(1861) 1565, (1871) 1596, (1881) 1536.— Orc^. Sur., shs.
76, 86, 1874-76.

Inshes House. See Inches.

Inshewan. See Inchewan.

Insh, Loch, Inverness-shire. See Inch.

Inshoch Castle. See Inchoch.

Inver, a village in Little Dunkeld parish, Perthshire,
on the right bank of the Tay and the left of the confluent
Bran, 1 mile WSW of Dunkeld. See Dunkeld, Little.

Inver, a fishing village in Tain parish, Ross-shire, on
the S side of the Dornoch Firth, 6\ miles E by N of Tain.
It includes Inverskinnerton, in Tarbat parish ; has 27
boats and 85 fisher men and boys; and in 1832 lost over
a third of its inhabitants through a few weeks' ravages
of the cholera. Pop. (1871) 450, (1881) 396, of whom
37 were in Tarbat. —Ore?. Sur., sh. 94, 1878.

Inver or Lochinver. See Assynt.

Inverallan, a quoad sacra parish in Cromdale parish,
Elgin and Inverness shires, containing the town of
Grantown. Constituted in 1869, it is in the pres-
bytery of Abernethy and synod of Moray. Stipend,
£120._ Pop. (1871) 2522, (1881) 2497, of whom 2055
were in Elginshire.

Inverallochy, a village and a quoad sacra parish in
Rathen parish, NE Aberdeenshire, The village stands
on the coast, immediately E of Cainibulg village, 4
miles ESE of Fraserburgh. It has a post office under
Aberdeen, a public school, and (including Cairnbulg)
223 boats and 379 fisher men and boys. Inverallochy
Castle, 1| mile S of the village, belonged to the powerful
family of Comyu ; and till the latter half of last century
retained a stone above the entrance bearing the sculp-
tured arms of the Comyns, with an inscription record-
ing that the estate around it was obtained by Jordan
Comyn for building the abbey of Deer. It presents an
imposing but desolate appearance, and, as seen at a dis-
tance, looks more like an ecclesiastical structure than
a feudal fortalice. The quoad sacra parish is in the
jjresbytery of Deer and synod of Aberdeen ; its minister's
stipend is £198. The church was originally a chapel of
ease. Rathen Free church stands 2| miles SSW of the
village. Pop. of the two villaices (1801) 404, (1831)
820,^(1861) 1079, (1871) 1240, "(1881) 1200, of whom
459 were in Cairnbulg ; of the q. s. parish (1871) 1593,
(1881) I'ou.—Ord. Sur., sh. 97, 1876.

Inveramsay Junction, a station in Cliapel of Garioch
parish, Aberdeenshire, on the Great North of Scotland
railway, 29^ miles S by E of Banff, 20^ SE of Grange
Junction, and 20J NW of Aberdeen.

Inveran, a hamlet in Creich parish, S Sutherland,
Ig mile N by W of Invershin station. It has a post
office and a good hotel.

Inverardoch, a mansion in Kilmadock parish, S Perth-
shire, near the influx of Ardoch Burn to the Teith,
^ mile SSE of Doune. French in style, it was built in
1859 from designs by David Bryce, R.S.A. — Ord. Sur,,
sh. 39, 1869.

Inverarity, a parish in the Sidlaw district of Forfar-
shire. It comprehends the ancient parishes of Inverarity
and jMeathie, and contains the post office of Kincaldrum,
4.^ miles SSW of the post-town, Forfar. It is bounded
N by Forfar, NE by Dunnichen, E by the detached
section of Guthrie, SE by Monikie, S by Murroes, SW
by Tealing, W by Ghuuis and a detached section of
Caputh, and NW by Kinnettles. Its length, from E to
W, varies between 3| and 5 miles ; its utmost breadth,
from N to S, is 4h miles ; and its area is 9596;f acres,
of which 14 are water. Arity Water comes in from the
E, goes west-north-westward through the interior, and
midway is joined on the lelt by Corbie Burn. A valley
or small strath extends along the greater part of the
Arity's course, and, sinking to less than 300 feet above
sea-level, is encinctured by an amiiliitheatre of wooded
hills— Kincaldrum Hill (9il feet) to the W, Carrot Hill
(851) to the S, and Fothringham Hill (800) to the N.

INVERARAY

Sandstone and greyslate abound, and have been worked.
The soil is mosth' a heavj^ loam, black and free in some
parts, and rather stitf in others, resting closely on the
boulder clay. A good deal of the land lies, therefore,
on a damp stiff subsoil, and would be much improved
by di-aining and liming. About two-thirds of the entire
area are under cultivatiou, one-sixth is under wood,
and the rest is either pastoral, waste, or water. Anti-
quities are several tumuli and a very large Eoman camp
at Haerfaulds on the Guthrie boi'der, for the most part
in very fine preservation, though at one end a portion
of it has been ploughed over. The mansions are
FoTHEiXGHAM and KixcALDRTJM ; and 4 proprietors
hold each an annual value of more, 1 of less, than
£500. Inverarity is in the presbytery of Forfar and
synod of Angus and ilearns ; the living is worth £278.
The church, near the right bank of Arity Water, 4 J
miles S of Forfar and 2| W by N of Kirkbuddo station,
is a bttildiug of 1754, repaired in 1854, and containing
600 sittings. The public school, with accommodation
for 197 children, had (1881) an average attendance of
75, and a grant of £57, Is. Valuation (1857) £6310,
(1883) £11,488, 15s. lOd., -plus £371 for railway. Pop.
(1801) 820, (1841) 997, (1861) 961, (1871) 888, (1881)
862.— Orc^. Sur., shs. 57, 49, 1868-65.

Inveraray (Gael Inbhir-Aoraidh, of unknown ety-
mologj-), a town and a parish in Argyll district, Argyll-
shire. A royal, parliamentary, and police burgh, the
capital of the county, and a seaport, the town stands
on the S side of a small bay, at the Aray's influx to
Loch Fvne, 6J miles SW of the head of that sea-loch,
241 XXE of Lochgilphead, 56f N by W of Kothesay
(via Kvles of Bute), 9i S of Cladich on Loch Awe, 42
SE of Oban, 16 SSW of Dalmally station, 24 W by 2s
of Tarbet, 11^ NW of Lochgoilhead, 45 NXW of
Greenock {via Loch B^k), and 67^ NW of Glasgow. It
communicates daily by steamboat with Glasgow, and
daily during the summer by coach with Tarbet, Dal-
mally, Loch Eck, and Lochgoilhead. ' The approach,'
writes the Queen, ' is splendid ; the loch is very wide ;
straight before you a fine range of mountains splendidly
lit up, — green, pink, and lilac ; to the left the little
town of Inveraray ; and above it, surrounded by pine
woods, stands the castle of Inveraray, square, Avith
turrets at the corner.' Robert Buchanan styles In-
veraray 'that most depressing of fish-smelling High-
land towns ; ' but his brother-poet, Alexander Smith,
described it as 'a rather pretty place, with excellent
inns, several churches, a fine bay, a ducal residence, a
striking conical hill — Duniquaich the barbarous name
of it — wooded to the chin, and an ancient watch-tower
perched on its bald crown. The chief seat of the
ArgyliS cannot boast of much architectural beauty,
being a square building with pepperbox-looking turrets
stuck on the comers. The grounds are charming, con-
taining fine timber, winding walks, stately avenues,
gardens, and, through all, spanned by several bridges,
the Aray bubbles sweetly to the sea. Xo tourist should
leave Inveraray before he ascends Dimiquaich — no very
difncitlt task either, for a path winds round and round
it. When you emerge from the woods beside the watch-
tower on the simimit, Inveraray, far beneath, has
dwindled to a toy town — not a sound is in the streets ;
unheard the steamer roaring at the wharf, and urging
dilatory passengers to haste by the clashes of au angry
bell. Along the shore nets stretched from pole to pole
wave in the drying wind. The great boatless blue loch
stretches away flat as a ball-room floor ; and the eye
wearies in its flight over entUess miles of moor and
mountain. Turn your back on the town, and gaze
towards the north. It is still "a far cry to Loch
Awe," and a wilderness of mountain peaks tower up
between you and that noblest of Scottish lakes — of
all colours too — green with pasture, brown with moor-
land, touched with the coming purple of the heather,
black with a thunder-cloud of pines. What a region
to watch the sun go down upon ! ' {Summer in Skye,
1865).
Founded in 1742, in lieu of an earlier town, which,

INVERARAY

dating from the Argylls' first settlement here, stood in
front of their pristine castle, Inveraray chiefly consists
of a row of houses fronting the bay, and a main street
striking thence at right angles. It is mostly well built,
the houses neat and substantial ; and has a post office,
with money order, savings' bank, insurance, and tele-
graph departments, branches of the National and Union
Banks, 9 insurance agencies, the Argyll Arms and 3
other hotels, a water supply (1836), gasworks (1841), a
police station (1869), cattle markets on the last Friday
in May and the last Thursday in October, and a wool
market on the Friday after the second Thursday in Julj'.
The neat county court-house, of native porphyry, was
adorned in 1874 with a bust by Sir John Steell of the
late Lord Colon say, a native of Argyllshire, and county
member from 1S43 to 1851. The prison was legalised in
1848, and, as altered and improved in 1871, has twenty-
four cells. A sculptured stone cross, 8 feet high, with
an almost illegible Latin inscription, is supposed to date
from 1400 or thereby, and to have been brought from
lona. It was the town-cross of the older town, on the
demolition of which it lay for a long time neglected, but
now it stands at the foot of the principal street. Nearer
the church is a small obelisk to the memory of seventeen
Campbells who here were executed without trial for their
share in Argyll's expedition (1685). The parish church,
at the head of the principal street, is a long inelegant
structure of 1794, with a spire rising from the centre of
its roof. It was greatly injured by lightning in 1837,
but repaired at considerable cost the following year ;
and it comprises two places of worship, English and
Gaelic, with 450 and 470 sittings. There are also a
Free church (1844 ; 480 sittings), a U.P. church (1836 ;
205), and a temporary Episcopalian chapel. A very
rude pier was enlarged and improved in 1809, and again
was extended in 1836 at a cost of £1200, a slip being
formed to suit every state of the tide. Some trade is
done in the exchange of Highland produce for general
merchandise ; and Inveraray is head of a fishery district
between those of Campbeltown and Pvothesay. In this
district the number of boats in 1882 was 692, of fisher-
men 1640, of fish-curers 43, and of coopers 12, whilst
the value of boats was £15,184, of nets £19,572, and of
lines £1400. The following is the number of barrels of
herrings cured, and of cod, ling, and hake taken here
in five diflerent years— (1873) 10,272i and 900, (1874)
71354 and 1810, (1878) 13,800 and 5340, (1879) 33,837
and 2605, (1881) 40,079 and 720, in which last year
' the most special feature of the west coast fishing was
the return of herrings to the lower reaches of Loch FjTie,
where after an interval of many years' poor fishing,
not only was the take large in itself, but the herrings
proved exceptionally good both as regards size and
quality. ' The town was made a burgh of barony in
1472, and a royal burgh in 1648. It is governed by a
provost, 2 bailies, and 9
other councillors, who also
serve as police commis-
sioners under the General
Police and Improvement
Act (Scotland) of 1862;
and it unites with Ayr,
Oban, Campbeltown, and
Irvine in sending a mem-
ber to parliament. Assize
courts are held twice a
year ; and courts of quar-
ter sessions are held on
the first Tuesday of March,
ilay, and August, and on
the last Tuesday of Octo-
ber. The parliamentary and the municipal constituency
numbered 107 and 138 in 1SS3, when the annual value
of real property amounted to £3242, whilst the cor-
poration revenue was £524 in 1882. Pop. of royal
burgh (1811) 1113, (1841) 1233, (1861) 1074, (1871)
981, (1881) 940, of whom 864 were in the parliamentary
and police bui'gL Houses (1881) 211 inhabited, 8
vacant.

293

Seal of Inveraray.

INVERARAY

Inveraray's history is tliat of the Earls and Dukes of
Argyll, those zealous champions of civil and religious
liberty. Their ancestor, Sir Colin Campbell of Lochow
or Loch Awe, was knighted in 1280, and through his
prowess bequeathed to the chiefs of his line the Gaelic
title of Mac Cailean Mhor or Mac Galium More* ('great
Colin's son '). Sir Duncan Campbell of Lochow was raised
to the peerage as Lord Campbell in 14i5 ; Colin, his
son, was created Earl of Argyll in 1457, and added to his
possessions the district of Lome — 'so important that we
have on occasion found the Lord of Lome spoken of as
the Maor or chief niler in these Celtic dominions. In
the Lowlands the head of the house was successively
earl, marquis, and duke. About sueh titles his Celtic
subjects would neither know nor care to know. They
might be casually spoken of among the tawdry foreign
decorations conferred upon their chief To them he
was something infinitely greater and more illusti'ious
as- the son of Galium [sic) the Great, who had been the
Charlemagne or King Arthur in their line of chiefs '
(Hill Burton's Hist. ScotL, iii. 61, ed. 1876). The
second Earl fell at Flodden (1513) ; the fourth, who
died in 1558, was the first of the Scots nobility to em-
brace the princij^les of the Reformation. Archibald,
eighth Earl (1598-1661), the leader of the Covenanters,
was created a marquis in 1641, in 1651 crowned Charles
II. at Scone, and by Charles was ten years later be-
headed at Edinburgh. The Marquis he of Scott's
Legend of Montrose, where ' Major Dugald Dalgetty ' is
sent on an embassy to the ' noble old Gothic castle of
Inveraray, whose varied outline, embattled walls, towers,
and outer and inner courts presented an aspect much
more striking than the present massive and uniform
mansion. '+ Archibald, ninth Earl, for his descent upon
Scotland in concert with Monmouth's English rebellion,
was, like his father, executed at Edinburgh (1685) ; his
son and successor, Johu, an active promoter of the
Revolution, was in 1701 created Duke of Argyll, Mar-
quis of Lome, Baron Inveraray, etc. John, second
Duke (1678-1743), famous in both 'the senate and the
field,' is widely known through Scott's Heart of Mid-
lothian; Archibald, third Duke (1682-1761), built the
present castle ; and at it John, fifth Duke (1723-1806),
entertained Dr Samuel Johnson and Boswell on 25 Oct.
1773, when the 'Sage' was 'so entertaining that Lady
Betty Hamilton after dinner went and placed her chair
close to his, leaned upon the back of it, and listened
eagerly.' George-Douglas Campbell, present and eighth
Duke (b. 1823 ; sue. 1847), has filled the office of Lord
Privy Seal 1853-55, 1859-66, and 1880-81, of Postmaster-
General 1855-58, and of Secretary for India 1868-74.
He is author of the Reign of Law, Zona, The Afghan
Question, Primeval Man, and other works ; and he has
twice had the honour of entertaining Her Majesty at
Inveraray — for a few hours on 18 Aug. 1847, and again
from 22 to 29 Sept. 1875. His son and heir, John-
Douglas-Sutherland Campbell, Marquis of Lome (b.
1845), in 1871 married H.R.H. the Princess Louise, was
Governor-General of the Dominion of Canada from 1878
to 1883, and has published A Trip to the Tropics, Guido
and Lita, etc. The Duke holds 168,315 acres in Argyll-
shire and 6799 in Dumbartonshire, valued at £45,672
and £5171 per annum.

Inveraray Castle, 5 furlongs N by W of the town, and
on the right bank of the winding Aray, J mile above its
mouth, ' stands on a la\\'n, retired from the sea-loch, and
screened behind by woods that cover the sides of high
hills to the top, and, still beyond, by bare mountains.'
It was built by the third Duke in 1744-61, after designs

* The latter form is an utter blunder. Sir Walter Scott fell
into the error, and, when corrected, rei)Iied that 'Mac Callum
More ' was his nickname for Argyll.

t According to Dr Hill Burton, ' if we may believe a curious
old i>rint, the present unsightly pile, with its clumsy bulk and
ta\v(iry decorations, must have displaced a predecessor which, in
the beautiful variety of turrets and dtcorattd chimneys crowning
the massive cluster of square and round towers built into each other
at different atfes below, probably excelled Glaiiiis and the finest
specimens of this peculiar architecture in the North ' (Flist. ScotL,
viii. 542, edn. 1876).
294

INVERARAY

by R. Morris,* at a cost, including the laying out of the
grounds, of over £300,000. A massive, quadrangular,
two-storied pile, with four round, pointed-roofed corner
towers, a sunk floor, and a dormer-windowed attic story,
it is in the Gothic of the 18th century, and consists of
grey, sombre lapis ollaris or pot-stone, brought from
the opposite shore of Loch Fyne. On 12 Oct. 1877,
damage, estimated at £17,500, was caused by a fire of
unknown origin, which gutted the central tower, and
destroyed a fine organ, 200 flint-lock muskets used by
the Argyllshire loyalists against the rebels at Culloden,
rich tapestries, the well-worn colours of the Argyllshire
Highlanders, portraits of the fifth Duke and Duchess, of
the Great Montrose and his rival Argyll, etc. Fortu-
nately, however, the most valuable paintings, furni-
ture, and books were saved, the first including portraits
of the great Marquis and the ninth Earl ; and by
1880 the building itself was restored to more than
its former magnificence. On the lawn in front of
the castle stands the 'Battle Stone,' a large pre-
historic monolith; and here is also the ' Gleld Gun'
or ' Gunna Cam,' a brass cannon 10 feet long, recovered
in 1740 from the wreck of one of the ships of the
Spanish Armada which was blown up in Tobermory
Bay. The park, nearly 30 miles in circumference, is
nobly wooded, its plantations dating from 1674, 1746,
1771, 1805-8, and 1832-36, whilst during the last thirty-
five years no fewer than 2,000,000 oaks, larches, Scotch
firs, spruces, etc., have been planted by the present
fsrester, Mr Stewart. There are three splendid avenues,
one of limes and two of beeches ; a limetree near
Essachosan is called the ' Marriage Tree ' from the
curious union of its branches ; and among the ' old and
remarkable trees,' whose dimensions are given in Trans.
Highl. and Ag. Soc. (1879-81), are five at Inveraray —
a Spanish chestnut (height, 85 feet ; girth, 24^ at 1
foot from ground), a beech (95 ; 14| at 5), an oak (73 ;
20ij at 1), a sycamore (80 ; 13^ at 3), and a Scotch fir
(110; 14^ at 5). The shootings and fishings are of
great value ; and it may be noticed that wild turkeys
were introduced into the woods in 1882. See also RosE-
NEATH and pp. 125-133 of Dorothy Wordsworth's Tour
in Scotland, 1803 (ed. by Princ. Shairp, 1874).

The parish of Inveraray contains also the village of
Furnace, so called from its being the site of the first
Scotch iron smelting furnace ; and comprises the an-
cient ecclesiastical districts of Kilmilieu and Glenaray,
and once had churches at Kilmilieu, Glenaraj', Achan-
tiobairt, Kilbride, Kilblane, and Kilmun, with burial-
grounds at most of these places, and also at Glenshira
and Kilian. It is bounded N tiy Glenorchy-Innishail,
E by Lochgoilhead-Kilmorich and Loch Fyne, SE by
Loch Fyne, dividing it from Strachur and Stralachlau,
SW by Kilmichael-Glassary, and W and NW by Kil-
chrenan-Dalavich. Its greatest length, from NE to
SW, is 16| miles ; its breadth varies between 2§ and
6^ miles ; and its area is 46,892 acres. All of it,
except 139 acres forming the territory of the parlia-
mentary burgh, and 880 acres belonging to parts of the
royal burgh beyond the parliamentary boundaries, was
formerly the parish of Glenaray, and was returned in the
census of 1871-81 as a separate civil parish. The coast,
extending 12^ miles along Loch Fyne — 4 J above and 8
below the town of Inveraray — projects Strone, Dal-
chenna, Kenmore, and Pennymore Points, and is indented
by Loch Shira and several little bays ; in the S it is high
and rocky, but N of Douglas Water it is closely skirted
by the road from Lochgoilhead or Arrochar to Inveraray
and Lochgilphead. The streams all flow to Loch Fyne,
and the chief are the Shika, winding 11 miles south-
south-westward, and expanding, 5 furlongs above its
mouth, into the Douloch (6 x Ih, furl.) ; the Akay, run-
ning 8g miles south-by-eastward ; and Douglas Water,
curving 6f miles eastward. Loch Leacann (7x3 furl.)
lies on tlie boundary with Kilmichael-Glassary ; and
thirty smaller lakes are dotted over the south-western and
western interior. Perennial springs occur in thousands;

* Tlic elder Adam is commonly named as its architect, but wo
follow an article in the Builder of 2 Oct. 1S76.

INVERARNAN HOTEL

and several of tliem are sliglitl}' chalybeate. A lofty
line of watershed forms the north-eastern boundary ; a
lower line of watershed forms all the western boundary ;
and mountains, hills, and glens occupy most of the
interior. From SW to NE the principal heights are
Dun Leacainn (1173 feet), Beinn Dearg (1575), *An
Suidhe (1687), *Beiun Bhreac (1723), Sron Reithe (1171),
Cruach Mhor (1982), Dun Corr-bhile (1055), Stuc Scar-
dan (159S), *Beiun Chas (2214), *Beinn Ghlas (1S03),
and *Beinn Bhuidhe or Benbui (3106), where asterisks
mark those summits that culminate on the confines of
the parish. ' Its general appearance is mountainous,
presenting that diversity of form which is always the
result of the meeting and mingling together of two
different mountain rocks. Here a mountain of mica-
ceous schist may be seen rising upward to the height
of between 2000 and 3000 feet, a huge and isolated
mass, or stretching along in uniform height and
unbroken surface, its sloping sides clothed with heath
and verdure ; and there, collected around the base of
their prouder and older brethren, ridges of porphyry
are grouped, sometimes in masses of naked rock 700 or
800 feet high, and sometimes in low and gentle hillocks,
mantled with trees or covered with soft succulent
herbage. The result of the whole is an outline so
diversified, so waving, and so beautiful as is sufficient
to delight the eye, and to give noble and characteristic
features to the scenery. ' The rocks, besides the prevail-
ing mica slate and porphyry, comprise granite, roofing
slate, limestone, chlorite rock, and greenstone ; and an
important granite quarry, famed for its 'monster blasts,'
has been noticed under Furnace. The soil of the arable
lands along Loch Fyne is mostly a thin light loam on a
gravelly bottom ; of the best parts of the valleys, par-
ticularly of Glenshira, is a deep dark loam on a sandy
or clayey subsoil ; and elsewhere is mainly moss, mixed
with a small proportion of detritus from the hills.
Agricultui'al improvements, commenced about the middle
of last century, have since been actively prosecuted ;
and sheep and cattle farming is largely carried on.
Plantations now occupy some 3000 acres. Antiquities
are noticed under Achantiobairt and Douloch. Rob
Roy Macgregor (1665-1734) lodged some time in a house
on Benbui farm ; and here his son was born, who was
hanged for the abduction of Jean Key from Balfeon
jiarish. Claudius Buchanan, D.D. (1766-1815), the
Indian missionary, passed most of his boyhood at Inver-
aray. The Duke of Argyll is sole proprietor. The seat
of a presbytery in the synod of Argyll, Inveraray in
1651 was constituted a double ecclesiastical charge —
English and Gaelic, burgh and landward, or Kirkmilieu
and Glenaray — the former worth £248, the latter £157.
Bridge of Douglas public. Church Square public, New-
town public, Glenaray, and Creggan's female schools,
with respective accommodation for 130, 154, 105, 48,
and 43 children, had (1881) an average attendance of
11, 75, 74, 19, and 29, and grants of £22, 3s., £45, 17s.
7d., £16, 16s., £30, 4s., and £43, 18s. 6d. Valuation
(1860) £7973, (1883) £9108. Pop. (1801) 2051, (1841)
2285, (1861) 2095, (1871) 1794, (1881) 1706, of whom
873 were Gaelic-speaking, and of whom 299 were in
Cumlodden quoad sacra parish, 461 in Glenaray, and
946 in Inveraray. — Ord. Sur., shs. 37, 45, 1876.

The presbytery of Inveraray, meetiug at Lochgilphead
on the second last Tuesday of March and the last Tues-
day of April, Sept., and Nov., comprises the old parishes
of Craignish, Inverai'ay, Kilmartin, Kilmichael-Glassary,
North Knapdale, and South Knapdale, the quoad sacra
parishes of Ardrisliaig, Cumlodden, Lochgilphead, and
Tarbert, and the chapelrv of Locligair. Pop. (1871)
12,367, (1881) 11,328, of whom 1053 were communicants
of the Church of Scotland. — There is also a Free church
presbytery of Inveraray, with 2 churches at Lochgilp-
head and 6 at Ardrishaig, Inveraray, Kilmartin, Loch-
lyneside. North Knapdale, and Tarbert, which 8 churches
together had 2087 members and adherents in 1883.

Inveraman Hotel. See Glenfalloch.

Inveraven (Gael, inlhir-ahhuinn, ' confluence of the
river'), a hamlet in S Banffshire and a parish partly

INVERAVEN

also in Elginshire. The hamlet stands on the right
bank of the Spey and of the confluent Aven, 2 miles
NE of Ballindalloch station, and has live-stock and
grain fairs on the third Saturday of January, February,
March, April, October, and December, the Tuesday in
May before AVhitsunday, the second Tuesday of July
0. s. , and the Tuesday in November before Martinmas,
the three last being also hiring markets.

The parish, containing also Ballindalloch station and
post office, 12 miles NE of Grantown and 12 SW of
Craigellachie, is bounded N by Knockando, E by Aber-
lour, Mortlach, and Cabrach, SE by Glenbucket and
Strathdon in Aberdeenshire, SW by Kirkmichael, and
W by Cromdale. Its utmost length, from N by W to
S by E, is 16| miles ; its utmost width, from E to W,
is 8 miles; and its area is 49,259 acres, of which 1569
belong to the Elginshire section and 286 are water. In
the SE or Glenlivet portion of the parish, Livet Water
is formed by the confluence of Suie and Kymah Burns,
both rising at an altitude of 2300 feet above sea-level,
and running— the former 3i miles southward, the latter
5| miles north-by-westward. From the point of their
union (1100 feet) the Livet flows S| miles west-north-
westward and north-north-westward, till it falls into the
Aven at Drumin (-700 feet), 5 miles S of Ballindalloch sta-
tion. The pellucid Aven, entering from Kirkmichael,
runs 6| miles northward to its confluence with the Spey
at a point ^ mile NE of Ballindalloch station ; and the
Spey itself, here a noble salmon river, 200 feet broad,
winds 71 miles north-eastward along all the Knockando
boundary, descending during this course from 480 to 358
feet. The sm-face is everywhere hilly or grandly moun-
tainous, chief elevations to the E of the Aven and the Livet,
as one ascends these streams, being the *Hill of Phones
(961 feet), *Cairn Guish (1607), the *western shoulder
(2500) of Ben Rinnes, Caiknacay (1605), *Corryhabbie
Plill (2563), and Carn an t-Suidhe (2401) ; to the W of
them, *Creagan Tarmachain (2121), Carn Liath (1795),
*Carn Daimh (1866), the isolated Bochel (1500), and
* Carn Mor (2636), where asterisks mark those summits
that culminate on or close to the confines of the parish.
The division from the Spey to Cairnacay is Inveraven
proper ; that from Cairnacay to the Bochel is known as
ilorange ; and that above the Bochel is the Braes of
Glenlivet. Inveraven proper rejoices in the beautiful
grounds of Ballindalloch Castle, and almost everywhere
is adorned with either natural wood or plantations.
Morange includes a considerable extent of strath, but
both it and the Braes are utterly bare of wood. A fair
extent of arable land lies along the banks of the streams,
and is adorned or overlooked by picturesque features of
scenery ; but nearly all the rest of the parish is either
moor or mountain, bleak and barren of aspect. Gneiss
is the predominant rock. Red granite, suitable for
building purposes, forms a vein in the N side of Ben
Rinnes ; limestone, embedded in the gneiss, occurs in
Morange ; and small portions of asbestos have been
found on Ben Rinnes, rock crystals in boulders of the
Aven. The soil of the arable lands is loamy, gravelly,
or moorish ; but, on the whole, may be pronounced
good. Antiquities, other than those noticed under
Ballindalloch and Castle-Drumin, are remains of a
hunting-seat of the Earls of Huntly at Blairfindj', a very
large cairn near Buitterlach, and vestiges or the sites of
Caledonian stone cii'cles and tumuli, and of several pre-
Reformation chapels. The Battle of Glenlivet is the
chief event in the history of the parish, natives of
which have been Gen. James Grant of Ballindalloch
(1719-1806), the captor of St Lucia, and Sir James
M'Grigor, Bart., M.D., F.R.S. (1771-1858), long chief
of the army medical department. The Duke of Rich-
mond and Gordon and Sir George Macpherson-Grant of
Ballindalloch are by far the largest proprietors, 1 other
holding an annual value of more, and 3 of less, than
£50. Giving off the quoad sacra parish of Glenlivet,
Inveraven is in the presbytery of Aberlour and synod of
Moray ; the living is worth £361. The parish church,
at the hamlet, was built in 1806, and contains 550
sittings ; a Free church stands on the right bank of the

295

Seal of Inverbervie,
Kincardineshire.

INVERAVON

Aven, 3 miles SSE of Ballindalloch station. Other

tilacci of worship are noticed under Gleulivet , and,
)esides the five schools there, Invcraveu public, Mori-
nish public, and Ballindalloch schools, with respective
accomraodatiou for 164, 60, and 74 children, had (1881)
an average attendance of 91, 45, and 31, and grants of
£82, 2s. 6d., £52, 6s. 6d., and £35, 4s. Valuation

(1860) £8539, (1881) £9677, of which £938 was for the
Elginshire section. Pop. (1801) 2107, (1831) 2648,

(1861) 2639, (1871) 2608, (1881) 2568, of whom 194
were in Elginshire and 952 in the ecclesiastical parish.
—Orel. Sur., shs. 85, 75, 1876.

Inveravon, Linlithgowshire. See Inneravon.
Inverawe, an estate, with a mansion in Ardchattan
parish, Argyllshire. The mansion, on the right bank
of the Awe, at the western base of Ben Cruachan, 2^
miles ENE of Taynuilt station, is surrounded with fine
old trees ; and the estate belongs to the heirs of the late
Alex. Cameron-Campbell, Esq. of Monzie and Fassi-
FERN, who held 13,000 acres in Argyllshire and 74,000
in Inverness-shire, valued at £1043 and £4827 per
annum. — Onl. Sur., sh. 45, 1876.

Inverawe, New, or Tirvane, an estate of 862 acres, with
a mansion, in Glenorchy and Inishail parish, Argyllshire,
on the NW shore of Loch Awe,
10 miles SE of Taynuilt. In
1881 it was sold for £12,500
to John Stirling Ainsworth,
Esq.

Inverbervie, Kincardine-
shire. See l')EnviE.

Inverbervie, Perthshire. See
Inciibeuvie.

Inverbroom. See Loch-
broom.

Inverbrothock, a quoad sacra
parish in St Vigeans parish,
Forfarshire, on the coast, at the
mouth of the Brothock Burn.
It comjuises the greater part of the suburbs of Arbroath,
or northern division of the parliamentary burgh ; and,
constituted by the ecclesiastical authorities in 1834, re-
constituted by the Court of Teinds in 1854, it is in the
presbytery of Arbroath and synod of Angus and Mearns.
Stipend, £120. The parish church was built as a chapel
of ease in 1828 at a cost of £2200, and contains 1224
sittings. Pop. (1871) 7060, (1881) 8094.

Invercannich, a hamlet in Kilmorack parish, NW
Inverness-sliire, near the left banks of the Glass and the
confluent Cannich, 20 miles SWof Beauly, under which
it has a post office. Here, too, is Glen Affric Hotel. —
Orel. Sur., sh. 73, 1878.
Invercarron. See Kixcardine, Ross-shire.
Invercauld, a mansion in Cratliie and Braeniar parish,
SW Aberdeenshire, within 3 furlongs of the Dee's left
bank, and 4 miles ENE of Castleton (as the crow flies,
only 1^). A large old Baronial edifice, sheltered all
round by wooded hills, and having a great extent of
picturesque Highland grounds, it was altered and en-
larged in 1872, when a wing and a massive and lofty
grey granite tower were added, but when the apart-
ments were demolished wlience the Earl of Mar issued
his famous letters prior to the unfurling of the Jacobite
standard at Castleton in 1715. Held by his ancestors
since the close of the 14th century, it is the seat of
James Ross Farquharson, E.sq. (b. 1834 ; sue. 1862),
who owns 87,745 acres in the shire, valued at £9567
per annum. — Orel. Sur., sh. 65, 1870.

Inverchaolain, a parish in the S of Cowal district,
Argyllshire. It comprises Loch Striven, and contains
the village of Colintraive, with a post olHce under
Greenock and a steamboat pier. It is Itounded E by the
united parishes of Kilmun and Dunoon, SW by the Kyles
of Bute and Rothesay Bay, W by Loch Riddon, and NW
and N by Kihnodan. Its utmost length, from NNW to
SSE, is 13f miles ; its utmost breadth, from E to W, is 7g
niiles ; and its land area is 29,312 acres. The lully and
rugged surface includes some small flat fields adjacent
to the shore, but generally rises with steei) ascent all
296

INVERESK

round the coast ; and formerly was, in main degree,
covered with heath, but has been extensively reclaimed
into a condition of good sheep pasture. Chief elevations
from S to N are Kilmarnock Hill (1283 feet), Bodaeh
Bochd (1713), *Bishop's Seat (1651), *Cruach nan CapuU
(2005), and *Carn Ban (1869), to the E of Loch Striven ;
to the W, Meall an Glaic (1325), IMeall an Riabhach
(1587), Beinn Bhreac (1658), and Cruach nan Cuileau
(1416), where asterisks mark those summits that cul-
minate just on the eastern border of the parish. The
scenery along the Kyles and up Loch Riddon is bril-
liantly picturesque, and exhibits attractions which may
be compared with those of the Trossachs. Mica slate
and other metamorphic rocks are predominant ; trap
rock forms several prominent dykes ; and limestone of
hard quality occurs to some extent, and has been worked.
Less than one-thirtieth of the entire area is arable ; about
one-thirteenth is low-lying pasture or under plantations ;
and all the rest of the land is either hill pasture or
waste. Antiquities are a ruined fort on the islet of
EUan-DHEiRRiG, a standing stone 10 or 12 feet high
at the head of Loch Striven, and sepulchral tumuli in
several places. South Hall and Knockdhu are the chief
mansions ; and the property is divided among seven.
Inverchaolain is in the presbytery of Dunoon and synod
of Argyll ; the living is worth £190. The parish church,
on the E shore of Loch Striven, 6 miles N by W of
Toward, was built in 1812, and contains 250 sittings.
The ancient church stood on the side of a hill, about
200 yards above the site of the present one. At South
Hall, on the Kyles of Bute, there is a Free church,
which, together with the Free church at Kilmodau, forms
one ministerial charge ; and two public schools, Inver-
chaolain and South Hall, with respective accommodation
for 47 and 42 children, had (1881) an average attendance
of 15 and 32, and grants of £24, 10s. and £27, 19s. lOd.
Valuation (1860) £4081, (1883) £5547, 16s. Pop. (1801)
626, (1831) 596, (1861) 424, (1871) 443, (1881) 407, of
whom 125 were (iaelic-speaking. — Orel. Sur., sh. 29, 1873.

Invercharron. See Kincardine, Ross-shire.

Invercoe. See Glencoe.

Inverdruie, a mansion in the Rothiemurchus portion
of Duthil })arish, NE Inverness-shire, near the right
bank of the Spey and the left of the confluent Druie,
1 mile SSE of Aviemore station.

Invereighty, an estate, with a mansion, in Kinnettles
parish, Forfarshire, 4 miles SSW of Forfar.

Inverernan, a mansion in Strathdon parish, SW
Aberdeenshire, near the left bank of the Don and the
right of confluent Ernan AVater, 18 miles SSW of
Rhynie. As altered and enlarged about 1825, it pre-
sents the appearance of a modern villa, in the Italian
style. Its owner, Lieut. -Gen. Sir John Forbes, K.C. B.
(b. 1817 ; sue. 1848), holds 15,336 acres in the shire,
valued at £866 per annum. — Orel. Sur., sh. 75, 1876.

Invererne House. See Forres.

Invereshie, a mansion in Kingussie parish, E Inver-
ness-shire, near the NE shore of Loch Inch, the right
bank of the Spey, and the left bank of the confluent
Feshie, 1^ mile SE of Kincraig station. It is a seat of
Sir George Macpherson-Grant of Ballindalloch, Bart.,
who holds 103,372 acres in Inverness-shire, 7848 in
Elginshire, and 14,223 in Banflshire, valued at £5454,
£2476, and £3617 per annum.— Ore?. Sur., sh. 74, 1877.

Inveresk (Gael. inbhir-uisge, 'confluence of tlie water'),
a village and a coast parish of NE Edinburghshire. The
village stands above the riglit bank of the winding Esk,
5 furlongs S of ]\Iusselburgh, and J mile N by W of
Inveresk station on the main line of the North British,
this being 6,|. miles E by S of Edinburgh. Enjoying so
healthy a climate as long to have been called the Mont-
pelier of Scotland, it extends along a broad-based gentle
ascent, whose higher parts command wide and delightful
views — northward across the Firtli of Fortli, south-west-
ward away to the Pentlands ; and itself it is a pleasant,
old-fashioned place, whose trees and gardens, last-century
mansions, and more recent villas give it somewhat tlie
aspect of a Thames-side village. Tlie i)arish church, on
the western summit of the hill, is a plain, square, barn-

INVERESK

like edifice of 1805, with 2400 sittings, a high conspi-
cuous spire, and a churchyard which for beauty is scarce
to be matched in all the kingdom. Its ancient prede-
cessor, dedicated to St Michael, and supposed to have
been founded soon after the introduction of Christianity
out of the ruins of a Roman station, was gifted by
Malcolm Ceannmor to the church of Dunfermline. At
the time of its demolition it had four aisles, two upon
either side, and measured 102 feet in length. In Dec.
1545, barely two months before his martyrdom, George
Wishart preached to large congregations within its
walls ; and its minister for 57 years was Alexander
Carlyle, D.D. (1722-1805). He, 'Jupiter Carlyle'—
the 'grandest demigod,' said Scott, '1 ever saw'- — left
behind him an Autobiography of singular interest, which
was edited by Dr Hill Burton in 1860. The praetorium
of the Roman station of Inveresk, on ground now partly
occupied by the parish church, from 1547 onwards has
yielded a number of Roman remains — an altar, a hypo-
caust (1783), urns, bricks, medals, etc. — described in
David Moir's Roman Antiquities of Inveresk (Edinb.
1860). Pop. of village (1871) 341, (1881) 308.

The parish contains also the town of Musselburgh,
with the suburbs of Fisherrow and Newbigging, the
villages of Cowpits and Old Craigiiall, and part of
the village of New Craighall. It is bounded N by the
Firth of Forth, E by Prestonpaus and Tranent in Had-
dingtonshire, SE by Ormiston, S by Dalkeith, SW by
Newton, and W by Liberton and Duddingston. Its
length, from N to S, varies between 2J and 3§ miles ;
its utmost breadth, from E to W, is 3^ miles ; and its
area is 5925^ acres, of which 71Sf are foreshore and 51f
water. The beautiful wooded EsK enters the parish
1 furlong below the North and South Esk's confluence
in Dalkeith Park, and thence winds 3f miles north-by-
eastward through the interior till it falls into the Firth
between Musselburgh and Fisherrow ; whilst Burdie-
HousE Burn runs If mile north-north-eastward along
all the north-western border. The Carberry hills, at
the Haddingtonshire boundary, attain an altitude of
540 feet above sea-level ; but elsewhere the surface is
low and flat or gently undulating, and nowhere rises
much above 100 feet. The rocks belong to the coal-
measures of the Carboniferous Limestone series ; and
coal, sandstone, and limestone have all been worked,
the first from a very early period. The soil of the flat
grounds is naturally sandy, but has been worked into a
condition of high fertility ; the land to the S of Inver-
esk village, on either side of the Esk, is of better quality ;
and on the high grounds in the SE is clayey, and yields
heavy crops of grain. Almost all the land, not occupied
by ! uildings or by roads, is in a state of first-rate culti-
vation ; and, though in places less planted than might
be desired for shelter and beauty, possesses the fine
woods of Newhailes and Drumore, and includes a con-
siderable section of the nobly wooded ducal park of
Dalkeith. The manors of Little Inveresk, having long
been held by the monks of Dunfermline, were given by
James VI. to the first Lord Maitland of Thirlestane,
under whose grandson, the infamous Duke of Lauder-
dale, they suffered much curtailment. With exception
of the parts that had been alienated, they were pur-
chased in 1709 by Anne, Duchess of Buccleuch and
Monmouth. Among natives and residents, not noticed
under Musselburgh and Newhailes, have been Admiral
Sir David Milne, G. C. B. ; his son, Admiral Sir Alexander
Milne, Bart, G.C.B., F.R.S.E. ; and Sir David Wed -
derburn, Bart., M. P. The chief events and antiquities
are treated under Carberry, Pinkie, and Musselburgh.
Nine proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and
upwards, 49 of between £100 and £500, 58 of from £50
to £100, and 140 of from £20 to £50. In the presbytery
of Dalkeith and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale, this
parish is divided ecclesiastically between Inveresk and
North Esk quoad sacra parish, the former a living worth
£471. Two landward schools, Cowpits public and Old
Craighall, with respective accommodation for 59 and
75 children, had (1881) an average attendance of 30 and
47, and grants of £18. 5s. 9d. and £17, 3s. Landward
66

INVERGORDON

valuation (1871) £24,489, (1883) £26,322, of which
£4684 was for railways and waterworks. Pop. of entire
parish (1801) G600, (1831) 8961, (1861) 9525, (1871)
10,071, (1881) 10,537, of whom 7880 were in Mussel-
burgh, 5133 in Inveresk, and 5404 in North Esk. —Ore?.
Sur., sh. 32, 1857.

Inveresragan. See Esragan.

Inverey, two clachans in Crathie and Braemar parish,
SW Aberdeenshire, on Ey Burn at its influx to the Dee,
5 miles WSW of Castleton. A fragmentary ruin is all
that represents the ancient fortalice of the Farquharsons,
caterans of Deeside, one of whom in 1666 shot the 'Baron
of Bracklev.'— Orf?. Sur.,_ sh. 65, 1870.

Invergarry, an estate, with a hamlet, a ruined castle,
and a modern mansion, in Kilmonivaig parish, Inver-
ness-shire. The hamlet lies near the NW shore of
Loch Oich and the N bank of the confluent Garry,
7i miles SW of Fort Augustus ; at it are a post ofiice,
with money order, savings' bank, and telegraph depart-
ments, a branch of the Caledonian Bank, a hotel, and
a public school. Close to the loch, and If mile SSW of
the hamlet, is a monument, erected in 1812 by Colonel
jMacdonell, the last chief of the clan Macdonell, to com-
memorate the ' ample and summary vengeance ' inflicted
about 1661 on the seven murderers of the two young
Macdonalds of Keppoch. It consists of a small pyramid,
with seven sculptured heads ; and the spring beneath it
is called Tober-nan-Ceann (' well of the heads '). The
ruined castle, ^ mile S of the hamlet, stands on a rock,
called ' Creag-an-fitheach,' or 'Rock of the Raven,'
whence the Macdonells took their slogan or war-cry.
Long the seat of the chiefs of the clan Macdonell, it t^vice
was visited by Prince Charles Edward — on 26 Aug. 1745
(just a week after the gathering in Glenfinnan), and again
on 17 April 1746 (the day after CuUoden). Then he
found it all but deserted, and slept on the bare floor ;
and a few days later it was burned by the ' Butcher '
Cumberland. It was an oblong five-story structure,
with projections. The modern mansion, 3 furlongs
NNE of the castle, is a handseme edifice, erected in
1868-69 from designs by the late David Bryce, R.S.A.
See Glengarry.— Ord Sur., sh. 63, 1873.

Invergorden, a thriving seaport town in Rosskeen
parish, E Ross-shire, on the NW .shore of Cromarty
Firth, with a station on the Highland railway' (1863-64),
12g miles NE of Dingwall and 12f SSAV of Tain.
There is a regular ferry, f mile wide, to the opposite
shore of the Forth ; and a small pier was built in 1821
for the accommodation of the passengers. The harbour
itself, witli 16 feet water at spring tides and 13 at
neap, was formed in 1828 ; and two large wooden j^iers
were erected in 1857 at a cost of £5000 ; b\;t, since the
railway was opened, Invergorden has lost its steamboat
communication with Inverness, Aberdeen, Leith, Lon-
don, etc. The hemp manufacture is now extinct ; but
there are two steam sawmills and a large bone-crushing
and manure factory. A place of considerable mark,
substantially built, well situated for traffic, and of
growing importance for the export of farming produce,
Invergordon contains a number of good shops, ofl'ers
fine sea-bathing, and has a post office, with money
order, savings' bank, and telegraph departments,
branches of the Commercial and North of Scotland
Banks, 10 insurance agencies, 3 hotels, gasworks (1872),
a Wednesday newspaper, the Invergordon Times (1855),
and fairs on the third Tuesday of February, the second
Tuesday of April, old style, the first Tuesday of August,
the second Tuesday of October, and the second Tuesday
of December, old style. The Town-Hall (1870-71) is a
handsome Italian edifice, its pediment showing a sculp-
tured figure of Neptune ; the public school (1875-76) is
a Romanesque structure, surmounted by a belfry. Ross-
keen parish church, 1§ mile W by N, was built in 1832,
and contains 1600 sittings ; and Invergordon Free church
(1861), Gothic in style, cruciform in plan, with a spire 140
feet high, stands immediately N of the town, and con-
tains nearly 1000. Invergordon Castle, 7 furlongs NNW,
was accidentally destroyed by fire in 1801, but, as
rebuilt in 1873-74, is a fine Elizabethan mansion, with

297

INVERGOWRIE

beautiful plantations ; its owner, Robert Bruce ^neas
Macleod, Esq. of Cadboll (b. 1818 ; sue. 1853), holds
11,830 acres in the shire, valued at £11,021 per annum.
Having adopted the General Police and Improvement
Act (Scotland) in 1364, the town is governed by nine
police commissioners; and sherifl" small debt courts sit
at it in January, April, Julv, and October. Pop. (1841)
998, (1861) 1122, (1871) 1157, (1881) 1119, of whom
1092 were in the police burgh. Houses (1881) 207
inhabited, 10 vacant, 6 building. — Ord. Sur., sh. 94,
1878.

Invergowrie, a village at the mutual border of Long-
forgan parish, Perthshire, and Lilf and Benvie parish,
Forfarshire, on the Firth of Tay, with a station upon
the Dundee and Perth section of the Caledonian, 3^
miles "W of Dundee. Figuring in ancient record as a
place of royal embarkation, and surrounded by Crown
lands, which Alexander I. designed to be graced with a
royal palace, but which he found occasion to convey to
the monks of Scone, it has a ruined, ivy-clad church,
said to have succeeded a church of the beginning of the
8th century, founded by St Bonifacius, and the earliest
N of the Tay. (See Fortrose.) It adjoins the exten-
sive paper-works of Bullionfield and the village of Mylne-
field Feus, which in 1881 contained 348 inhabitants.
The ancient churchyard crowns an eminence, a mound
of singular shape, washed on one side bj'' the Tay ; and
on the shore, near the ruined church, are two large
blocks of stone, the 'Yowes or Ewes of Gowrie,' of
which Thomas the Rhymer predicted that —

' When the Towes o' Go^^Tie come to land,
The day o' judgement's near at hand.'

A huge boulder, fabled to have been flung from the Fife
coast by the Devil with the intention to destroy the
church, lies a little way N of the village ; and a Cale-
donian stone circle, comprising nine large stones and
four smaller ones, stands a short distance N of the
boulder. Invergowrie House, in Liff and Benvie parish,
2^ miles W by N of Dundee and If ENE of Invergowrie
station, is situated on a bank sloping down to the
Firth ; Avas greatly enlarged about 1836 after designs
by W. Burn ; and commands a beautiful view of a long
reach of the Firth and the Carse of Gowrie. Its owner,
George David Clayhills-Henderson, Esq. (b. 1832), holds
2138 acres in Forfar and Perth shires, valued at £4027
per annum. The ancient parish of Invergowrie was of
small extent, and since the middle of the 17th century
or earlier has been incorporated with Liff and Benvie. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 48, 1868.

Inverie, an estate, with a mansion and a hamlet, in
Knoydart district, Glenelg parish, W Inverness-shire.
The mansion, on the northern shore of Loch Nevis, 10
miles SSE of Isle Oronsay, and 54 AVSW of Fort
Augustus, was built and inhabited by the late Colonel
ilacdonell of Glengarry, the last of the Highland
chiefs, and within and without is a curious structure, in
the old Celtic style. It is now the property of John
Baird, Esq. of Knoydart. The hamlet, near the man-
sion, has a post office under Broadford, an inn, and a
public school.

Inverinate, a hamlet, with a public school, in Kintail
parish, Ross-shire, on the NE shore of Loch Duich,
1 mile WNW of Kintail church. Inverinate House,
standing finely embosomed in woods at the base of
Sgurr an Airgid (2757 feet), had been greatly enlarged
in the Italian style, when it was burned to the ground
in 1864.— Ord Sur., sh. 72, 1880.

Inverkeilor, a village and a coast parish of Forfar-
shire. The village stands near the right bank of Lunan
Water, 6 miles N by E of Arbroath station.

The parish, containing also Leysraill village and
Chance Inn, with a post and telegraph ofllce, is
bounded N by Kinnell and Lunan, E by the German
Ocean, S by St Vigeans, and AV by Carmyllie and
Kirkden. Its utmost length, from E by N to W by S,
is 7i miles ; its breadth, from N to S, varies between
9J furlongs and 4J miles ; and its area is 10,516§ acres,
of which 240 are foreshore and 36 water. Keilor Burn,
298

INVERKEITHING

which gives the parish its name, rises on the S border, and
runs 3 miles east-north-eastward to Lunan Bay. Lunan
Water, coming in from Kinnell, winds 3f miles through
the interior, then 2| miles along the boundary with Lunan
to the sea ; and two head-streams of Brothock Water
rise and run in the SW. The coast, 5^ miles long,
over the northern half is indented by Lunan Bay, and
here is low, flat, and sandy, overgrown with bent ; to
the S it is high and rocky, and at Redhead, the pro-
montorial termination of the Sidlaw spurs, attains a
height of 267 feet in picturesque porphyritic cliffs.
The section N of Lunan Water rises in a beautiful,
gently ascending bank of arable land to 325 feet
at Hilton and 290 at Compass Hill ; whilst the
southern section is mostly a level expanse of fertile
ground, attaining 262 feet near Boghead, 265 near
Kinblethmont, and 312 in the extreme W. The rocks
are Devonian, witli intermingling of traps and por-
phyries. Pavement flag, of the kind popularly called
Arbroath stone, is quarried and dressed at Leysmill ;
sandstone of suitable quality for masonry is quarried
between Lunan Water and Keilor Burn ; and a hard
bluish trap, well suited for road metal, is quarried on
the N side of Lunan Water. Agates and other pebbles,
some of them of fine colour and high density, are found
in the trap rocks. The soils are various, but generally
dry and fertile. About 250 acres are under plantation ;
126 are almost or altogether unfit for cultivation ; and
all the rest of the land is regularly or occasionally in
tillage. Antiquities are vestiges of Danish camps, the
remains of St Murdoch's and Quytefield chapels, and
Redcastle, which last is separately noticed, as also are
the mansions of Ethie, Kinblethmont, and Lawton. A
fourth, Anniston, standing J mile SE of the village, is the
seat of Lieut. -Col. Arthur John Rait, C. B. (b. 1839 ; sue.
1877), who owns 978 acres in the shire, valued at £2744
per annum. In all, 4 proprietors hold each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 5 of between £100 and £500,
1 of from £50 to £100, and 4 of from £20 to £50.
Giving off a portion to the quoad sacra parish of
Friockheim, Inverkeilor is in the presbytery of Ar-
broath and synod of Angus and Mearns ; the living is
worth £321. The parish church was built in 1735, and,
as enlarged about 1830, contains 703 sittings. There is
also a Free church ; and two public schools, Chapelton
and Inverkeilor, with respective accommodation for 119
and 232 children, had (1881) an average attendance of
79 and 143, and grants of £72, Is. 6d. and £125, 18s. 6d.
Valuation (1857) £13,594, (1883) £17,227, 2s. 5d., ^^Ziw
£2277 for railway. Pop. of civil parish (1801) 1704,
(1831) 1655, (1841) 1879, (1861) 1792, (1871) 1521,
(1881) 1671 ; of ecclesiastical parish (1871) 1189, (1881)
1311.— Ord Sur., sh. 57, 1868.

Inverkeithing, a coast town and parish of SW Fife.
A royal, parliamentary, and police burgh, and a sea-
port, the town, standing at the head of Inverkeithing Bay,
has a station on a branch line of the North British, 3f
milesSE of Dunfermline, If mile Nof North Queensferrj',
and 16 miles WNW of Edinburgh, from which by road it
is only 13 miles. It occupies a pleasant south-eastward
slope, which commands a delightful view ; and consists
of a longish main street, with divergent wynds and
some shoreward outskirts. Though it has mostly been
either built or rebuilt in the course of the present cen-
tury, the 'Inns' or old palace is still pointed out as
the residence of Annabella Drummond (1340-1403),
Robert III.'s widowed queen, who certainly died at
Inverkeithing. Near it vestiges have been discovered
of a supposed Franciscan or Dominican monastery.
The town has a post office, with money order, sav-
ings' bank, and telegraph departments, a branch of
the Clydesdale Bank, 7 insurance agencies, 2 hotels,
a good town-liall, a neat corn market, a curious old
pillar cross, a subscription library, a masonic lodge, a
music hall, a curling club, a cemetery, a gas company,
a mutual marine insurance company, a tolerable har-
bour, a shipbuilding yard, tan-works, rope-works, tire-
clay works, and a fair on the first Friday of August, the
survivor of five, which itself has been growing smaller and

INVERKEITHING

INVERKINDIE

smaller. The original parish church, St Peter's, was be-
queathed in 1139 to Dunfermline Abbey by Waldeve, son
of Gospatrie. A reconstruction of 1826, after the fire of
the year before, the present church is a handsome Gothic
building, with a nave, side aisles, 1000 sittings, and an
old "W tower. Square and of three stages, with a stunted
polygonal spire, this is Middle Pointed in style, as also
is a hexagonal, elaborately-sculptured font, one of the
finest in Scotland, which, disinterred from the rubbish in
1806, in making foundations for repairs on the church,
was at first placed in the porch, but has since been removed
to a spot near the pulpit, and regularly used for public
baptisms (T. S. Muir's Ancient CJiurchcs of Scotland,
18i8). There is also a spacious U.P. church, in which,
about 1820, the Rev. Ebenezer Brown, second 'son of the
Self -interpreting Bible,' preached before Brougham and
Jeffrey, the first pronouncing him the gi'eatest orator
they had ever heard,' whilst Jeffrey declared he 'never
heard such words, such a sacred untaught gift of speech.'
The harbour might be deepened and greatly improved,
yet is pretty good, having a patent slip, and affording
accommodation for vessels of 200 tons at spring tides,
though usually it is frequented by smaller vessels. It
comprises an area called the Inner Bay, which, extending
over an area of 100 acres, contracts to 1 fmdong at the
entrance between two low small headlands, the East and
the West Ness. At low water it is all an expanse of fore-
shore. The outer bay, broadening rapidl}' beyond the
harbour's entrance, includes foreshore over only a small
space immediately outside the Ness ; measures 1^ mile
across a chord drawn between St Davids and North
Queensferry, but only f mile from that chord to the
Ness ; and lies quite open to easterly and southerly winds.
A good many vessels used to frequent the harbour for
coal ; but their number has greatly decreased of recent
3' ears. The town is a royal burgh, under a charter of
William the Lyon, and, having partly adopted the General
Police and Improvement Act (Scotland) ]3riorto 1871, is
governed by a provost, 2 bailies, a treasurer, a dean of

Seal of Inverkeithing'.

guild, and 7 councillors. It unites with Stirling, Dun-
fermline, Gulross, and South Queensferry in sending
a member to parliament. The municipal and the
parliamentary constituency numbered 213 and 195 in
1883, when the annual value of real property amounted
to £4666 (against £3024 in 1873 and £5068 in 1882),
whilst the corporation revenue was £508 in 1882. Pop
(1831) 2020, (1861) 1929, (1871) 1763, (1881) 1653, of
whom 1646 were m the police and parliamentary and
1366 in the royal burgh. Houses (1881) 391 inhabited,
38 vacant.

The parish, containing also Hillexd village and a
fragment of Limekilns, includes the islets of Bimak
and Inchgaevie, as also the detached lands of Logie
&nd Urquhart, within Dunfermline parish, as far°as

Milesmark village. It comprises the ancient parishes of
Inverkeithing and Rosyth, united in 1636. It is bounded
W and N by Dunfermline, E by Dalgety, and S by
the Firth of Forth and the Ferryhill or North Queens-
ferry section of Dunfermline. Its length, from N to
S, diminishing westward, varies between 1 furlong and
4f miles ; its breadth, diminishing northwards, varies
between ^ mile and 3 miles ; and its area is 5020 acres,
of which 557f are foreshore. The coast, with an extent
of 42 miles, includes the greater part of St ilargaret's
Hope and Inverkeithing Bay, and is partly low and
sandj', partly rocky, and rather high. The interior is
low though undulating, nowhere much exceeding 200
feet above sea-level throughout all the southern district,
but rising to 344 near Annfield. The rocks belong to
the Carboniferous Limestone series ; but basalt intrudes
in the two islets and over all the SE portion of the
parish. Except for a small proportion of wood and
pasture, the entire area is in a high state of cultivation.
Inverkeithing claims as natives Sir Samuel Greig
(1735-88), the distinguished Russian admiral, and the
Rev. Robert Moffat, D.D.(1797-18S3), theAfrican mis-
sionary. Its chief antiquity is noted under Rostth,
the chief event in its history under Pitreavie. Seven
proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and up-
wards, 4 of between £100 and £500, 9 of from £50 to
£100, and 30 of from £20 to £50. Ecclesiastically
including North Queensferrj', this parish is in the
presbytery of Dunfermline and sjTiod of Fife ; the
living is worth £440. Inverkeithing and North
Queensferry public schools, with respective accommo-
dation for 397 and 100 children, had (1881) an average
attendance of 292 and 85, and grants of £250, 16s. and
£61, 3s. Valuation (1866) £8270, 9s. 5d., (1883)
£8483, 16s. Id. Pop. (1801) 2228, (1831) 3189, (1861)
3124, (1871) 3074, (1881) 2565.— Ord Sur., shs. 32, 40,
1857-67. See W. Simson's Reminiscences of Inverkeith-
ing (Edinb. 1882).

Inverkeithny, a village and a parish of NE Banffshire.
The village stands, 200 feet above sea-level, on the right
bank of the Deveron, 3 miles S by E of Aberchirder,
and 7 WSW of Turriff, under which it has a post office.

The parish is bounded NW by Eothiemay, N by
Marnoch, and on all other sides by Aberdeenshire — viz.,
NE by Turriff, SE by Auchteriess, and SW by Forgue.
Its utmost length, from WNW to ESE, is 6^ miles ; its
breadth varies between 5 furlongs and 4J miles ; and its
area is 7685 acres, of which 43§ are water. The Deveron
winds 45 miles east-south-eastward along all the northern
border, and at the vUlage is joined by the Burn of Forgue.
The parish is well watered by these and several smaller
streams, which serve to drive machinery for threshing
purposes. Along the Deveron, in the extreme E, the
surface declines to 114 feet above sea-level, thence rising
to 629 feet at the Hill of Carlincraig, and 738 near
Newton of Tollo. The parish thus is pleasantly diver-
sified with hill and dale, and the belt of it along the
Deveron is beautifully ornate. About 500 acres are
under wood, 400 are either pastoral or waste, and all the
rest is regularly or occasionally in tillage. Remains of
many stone circles are still to be seen, as also traces of
a Roman camp at Mains of Auchingoul, and of hut-
dwellings on the Hill of Carlincraig. Three proprietors
hold each an annual value of more than £1100, and 3
of between £300 and £500 ; but none are resident.
Inverkeithny is in the presbytery of Turriff and sjmod
of Aberdeen ; the living is worth £300. The parish
church, at the village, is a handsome edifice, erected in
1881 at a cost of nearly £2000, and containing 500 sit-
tings. At the same time the graveyard was levelled
and beautifully laid out at a farther cost of £100. Two
public schools, Easterfieldand Kirktown, with respective
accommodation for 100 and 135 children, had (1881) an
average attendance of 67 and 86, and grants of £56, Is.
and £80, 3s. Valuation (1860) £4678, (1883) £5911.
Pop. (1801) 503, (1831) 587, (1861) 880, (1871) 1000,
(1881) 909.— OrfZ. Sur., sh. 86, 1876.

Inverkindie, a hamlet in the Glenkindie section of
Strathdon parish, W Aberdeenshire, at the mouth of

299

INVERLOCHY CASTLE

Kindie Burn, 10 miles SSW of Rliynie. It has a post
oflBce under Aberdeen.

Inverlochy Castle, a ruined feudal stronghold m
Kilmonivaig parish, SW Inverness-shire, on the left
bank of the Lochy, a little above its influx to salt-water
Loch Linnhe, and 2 miles NE of Fort William. Here,
according to a fabulous tradition, stood an ancient city
where the Pictish kings occasionally resided, where
King Achaius in 790 signed a treaty with Charlemagne,
whither numbers of Frenchmen and Spaniards resorted,
and which was at last destroyed by the Danes, and
never thereafter rebuilt. The castle itself is a quad-
rangular edifice, with round three-story towers at the
angles, and measures 30 yards each way within the
walls. The towers and ramparts are solidly built of
stone and lime, 9 feet thick at the bottom, and 8 above.
The towers are not entire, nor are they all equally high.
The western or Comyn's Tower is the highest and
largest, and does not seem to have been less than 50
feet when entire, Avhilst the rampart or screen between
is from 25 to 30 feet in height. About 12 yards from
the exterior walls are the traces of a ditch, which has
been from 30 to 40 feet broad. The whole building
covers about 1600 square yards ; and within the ditch
there are 7000, or more than 1^ acre. From the name
of the western tower and other circumstances, it has
commonly been supposed that this castle was erected
either by Edward I. of England, or by his partisans in
the Great Glen, the powerful Comyns, with the assist-
ance of English engineers. More probably, howevei', it
was founded in the latter half of the 15th century by
George, second Earl of Huntly, and it seems to have still
been in an unfinished state in the time of Charles II.

Near this place, on Sunday, 2 Feb. 1645, a battle was
fought between a royalist army under the celebrated
Marquis of Montrose, and an army, partly Highland
and partly Lowland, under the Marquis of Argyll.
Montrose had come up from a winter raid in Argyll-
shire to attempt the seizure of Inverness, and was
marching thither through the eastern part of the Great
Glen, when he suddenly learned that Argyll, with a
force nearly double his own, was following him. He
instantly turned about, made a forced march over the
trackless mountains to the foot of Glennevis, and found
himself there in the vicinity of Argyll's army, encamped
at Inverlochy. He arrived in the evening of the 1st, and
lay under arms all night. Argyll, seeing battle to be at
hand, and excusing himself on account of some recent
contusions he had received, committed his army to the
charge of his cousin, Campbell of Aiichinbreck, and went
on board a galley in the loch. At the dawn of the 2d
both armies made preparation for battle. Montrose
drew out his force in an extended line. The right wing
consisted of a regiment of Irish, under the command of
Macdonald, his major-general ; the centre, of the Athole
men, the Stuarts of Appin, the JIacdonalds of Glencoe,
and other Highlanders, under the command of Clan-
ranald, M'Lean, and Glengarry; and the left wing, of
some Irish, at the head of whom was brave Colonel
O'Kean. A body of Irish was placed behind the main
body as a reserve, under the command of Colonel James
M'Donald, alias O'Neill. The general of Argyll's army
arrayed it in a similar manner. The Lowland forces
were equally divided, and formed the wings, between
which were placed the Highlanders. On a rising-ground
behind this line General Campbell drew up a reserve of
Highlanders, with a field-piece. Within Inverlochy
Castle, which was only about a pistol-shot from the
lines, he planted a body of forty or fifty men to protect
the place, and to annoy Montrose's men with discharges
of musketry. At sunrise Montrose gave orders to ad-
vance. The attack was commenced by his left wing,
under O'Kean, charging the right wing of Argyll's
army. This was immediately followed by a furious
assault upon the centre and left wing of Argyll's forces
by Montrose's right wing and centre. Argyll's right
wing, unable to resist the attack of Montrose's left,
turned and lied ; which circumstance had such a dis-
couraging effect on the remainder of Argyll's troops,
300

INVERMAY

that, after discharging their muskets, the whole of
them, including the reserve, took to their heels. The
rout became general. An attempt was made by a body
of 200 of the dismayed fugitives to throw themselves
into Inverlochy Castle ; but a party of Montrose's horse
prevented them. Others of the fugitives directed their
course along the shore of Loch Linnhe, but were all
either di'owned or killed in the pursuit. The greater
part, however, fled to the hills in the direction of
Argyllshire, and were chased for 8 miles by Montrose's
men. As little resistance was made by the defeated
party in their flight, the carnage was very great, being
reckoned at nearly 1500 men, or the half of Argyll's
army ; and many more would have been cut off, had it
not been that Montrose did all in his power to save
the unresisting fugitives from the fury of his men, who
were loth to give quarter to the hated Campbells.
Having taken the castle, Montrose not only treated
the ofiicers, who were from the Lowlands, with kindness,
but gave them their liberty on parole. The loss on the
side of Montrose was extremely trifling. The number
of wounded, indeed, is not stated, but he had only three
privates killed. Immediately after the battle, he sent
a messenger to Charles I. with a letter, giving an account
of it, and ending thus : ' Give me leave, after I have
reduced this country, and conquered from Dan to Beer-
sheba, to say to your majesty, as David's general to his
master, Come thou thyself, lest this country be called
by my name.' When the king received this letter, the
royal and parliamentary commissioners were sitting at
Uxbridge, negotiating the terms of a peace ; but Charles
was induced by it to break off the negotiation — a circum-
stance which led to his ruin. Scott weaves this battle
into his Legend of Montrose.

Modern Inverlochy Castle, 3| miles NE of Fort
William, is the Scottish seat of William Frederick
Scarlett, third Baron Abiuger since 1835 (b. 1826 ; sue.
1861), who holds 39,414 acres in the shire, valued at
£4347 per annum, the Inverlochy estate having been
purchased from the Gordon family by his grandfather,
the first Lord Abinger, in the early part of the present
century. Merely a shooting-box till 1861, it since has
been greatly enlarged, being partly in the Scottish
Baronial style of architecture, partly a large ornate
modern villa, with a round central tfag-tower, and a
massive square porticoed tower at the principal entrance.
The material is white granite, with freestone copings.
Queen Victoria paid a visit here in Sept. 1873. — Ord.
Sur., sh. 62, 1875.

Invermark, a roofless, ivy-clad, four-story granite tower
in Lochlee parish, N Forfarshire, on the peninsula at
the confluence of the Waters of Mark and Lee, opposite
Lochlee church, 17 miles NW of Edzell. Said to have
been built in 1526, and long a seat of the Lindsays, it
was put in a habitable state soon after 1729, but in 1803
was once more reduced to a ruin, to furnish materials
for the new church and manse. Its massive walls, how-
ever, more than 3 feet thick, look as though they might
stand for 300 years to come ; and it retains its pon-
derous door of grated iron. Invermark belongs now to
the Earl of Dalhousie, who here has a pretty shooting-
lodge, ' built of granite, in a very fine position overlook-
ing the glen with wild hills at the back.' It was visited
by the Queen and Prince Consort on 20 Sept. 1861. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 66, 1871. See A. Jervise's Land of the
Lindsays (2d ed. 1882).

Invermay, a seat of Lord Clinton in Forteviot parish,
SE Perthshire, on a rising-gi-ound overhanging the left
bank of ]\Iay Water, 1^ mile SSE of Forteviot station.
A plain, neat, modern structure, commanding an exten-
sive view of the picturesque scenery of the May's valley
and Lower Strathcarn, it has large and beautifully
wooded grounds. An old baronial fortalice in its
vicinity, now represented by an ivy-clad ruined tower,
which retains some apartments in entire condition,
forms a striking contrast to its modern neighbour.
'The Birks of Invermay' are the theme of a well
known lyric by David Mallet, and seem to have been
sung by earlier poets. Acquired by the Bclsches family

INVERMOEISTON

in the latter half of the I7th century, Invermay is now
the property of Lord Clinton, who holds 119s acres in
Perthshire, valued at £1016 per annum. See Fettee-
CAIUN.— Orrf. Sur., sh. 48, 1868.

Invermoriston, a hamlet in Urquhart and Glcnmoris-
ton parish, Inverness-shire, at the mouth of Glen-
nioriston, on the NW side of Loch Ness, 7 miles NNE
of Fort Augustus. It has a post office (Glenmoriston),
with money order, savings' bank, and telegraph depart-
ments, an inn, and a public school. Invermoriston
House is an old but modernised mansion, the seat of
Ian Robert James ilurray Grant, Esq. of Glenmoriston
(b. 1860 ; sue. 1868), whose ancestor got a charter of
the estate in 1509, and who holds 74,646 acres in the
shire, valued at £4955 per annum. It was at Inver-
moriston, in 1773, that Dr Johnson first conceived the
thought of his tour to the Hebrides. — Ord. Sur., sh.
73, 1878.

Inverneil, an estate, -with a mansion, in South Knap-
dale parish, Argyllshire, 3 miles S of Ardrishaig. Its
owner, Duncan Campbell, Esq. (b. 1843 ; sue. 1878),
holds 11,810 acres in the shire, valued at £2977 per
annum.

Inverness (Gael. inhhir-Ness, 'the mouth of theNess'),
a parish on the NE border of Inverness-shire at the NE
extremity of the Great Glen of Scotland. It embraces
the old parishes of Inverness and Bona, and is bounded
N by the Beauly and Moray Firths, NE by Petty, for
i mile at the extreme E by Nairnshire, SE and S by
Daviot and Dunlichity, by a detached portion of Croy
and Dalcross, and by Dores, SW and W by Urquhart
and Glenmoriston, and NW by Kiltarlity and by Kirk-
hill. Along the sea-shore on the N the boundary is
natural, as it also is along the line from Racecourse
Wood SW along the centre of Doehfour Loch and Loch
Ness to the extreme S point of the parish, 4| miles
from the NE end of the latter loch. Elsewhere it is
artificial and very irregular. The extreme length of the
parish, from Culloden Brickworks on the NE in a line
straight SW to the borders of the parish of Urquhart
and Glenmoriston, is 14| miles ; the breadth in aline at
right angles to this varies from IJ to 3J miles ; while
the area is 23,573 acres, of which the most considerable
portion is under cultivation or woodland, though in the
southern and south-western parts of the parish there is
a good deal of waste ground. The surface along the
seaboard is flat, but rises to the S, until in the SW
portion of the parish, on the NW side of Loch Ness, at
Cnoc-na-Goithe, Carn-a-Bhodaich, and Carn-an-Leitre,
it reaches a height of 1249, 1642, and 1424 feet respec-
tively. The NE half of the parish consists principally
of the north -eastermost portion of the Great Glen of Scot-
land, extending from the lower part of Loch Ness to
the firths, and is flanked on both sides by the termina-
tions of the hill boundaries of the glen. These are
generally well wooded. The surface of the valley is
mostly flat and but little above sea-level, but at one
or two points there are considerable undulations. Of
these we may notice the hill of Tomnahurich ('the hill
of the fairies ') on the left side of the Ness near the to^vn.
It is a beautifully wooded isolated mount resembling a
ship with her keel up, and measuring 1984 feet in
length, 176 in breadth, and 223 in height. It has now
been finely laid out as an exti-amural burying-place for
the adjacent burgh of Inverness. A little to the W of
this is a gravel ridge called Tor-a-Bhean or Torvean,
rising to a height of 300 feet. The soil along the
coast part is good and well cultivated, and in the
vicinity of the town it is a fine clayey loam, originally
formed by deposit from the river Ness and the firths,
while on the arable land in the SW it is light and
sandy. The subsoil is gravel and clay, and the under-
lying rocks in the low grounds belong to the Old Red
sandstone, while in the upper districts they are meta-
morphic. Sandstone of a light grey colour, with inter-
mixture of mica in small scales, and limestone, occurs
on the lands of Leys, and contains calcareous spar,
steatite, and heavy spar. The sandstone beside Clach-
naharry pier, at the mouth of the Caledonian Canal,

INVERNESS

contains celestine. The drainage of the parish is
effected by the various streams that fall into Loch Ness
or into the river Ness, among which may be men-
tioned the burns of Abriachan — flowing from the small
LochLaide(23 x 2 furl. ; 860 feet) — Doehfour, Holm^and
Inches, which have some small cascades and good wood-
land scenery. The parish is traversed by roads leading
from Inverness as a centre eastward by Elgin to Aber-
deen, northward by Beauly to Dingwall, etc., south-
ward by Badenoch to Perth. The Caledonian Canal
passes through it from the NE end of Loch Ness to the
Beauly Firth at Clachnaharry, a distance of nearly 6^
miles, and connects Inverness with the SW of Scotland.
The regular service of passenger steamers from Glasgow
has its terminus at Muirto'wn, about 1 mile from the
mouth of the canal, and 1 mile NW of the suspension
bridge over the Ness in the burgh. The parish is also
traversed by the Highland railway system, which
passes through its whole breadth along the seaboard,
for a distance of 6 J miles. The main station is at Inver-
ness, and there is a station If mile to the NWat Clach-
naharry. Besides the burgh of Inverness, the parish
contains also the suburban village of Clachnaharry and
the villages of Balloch, Culcabock, Hilton, Resaudrie,
and Smithtown of Culloden. There are a number of
objects of antiquarian interest, of which some are
noticed under the town, while others are noticed sepa-
rately under Bona, Clachnahaery, and Ceaig Pha-
DEICK. Tomnahurich, already noticed, was at one time
a ward and mote-hill, and in later days the magistrates
of the burgh of Inverness used to patronise horse-races,
run round its base. The ridge of Torvean, already
noticed, seems to take its name from Donald Bane, who
was in 1187 killed in conflict with the garrison of
Inverness. Part of it shows traces of an ancient hill
fort; and in 1808, near the base, there was dug up a
massive double-linked silver chain, now in the Anti-
quarian Society's Museum at Edinburgh. Some cairns
near the fort are known as Kilvean or Kil-a-Blican, the
cell of Bean or Bane, who is by some identified as the
islesman just mentioned, but according to others is
Baithene (536-600), second abbot of lona in succession
to St Columba. The whole estate of Bucht, of which
Torvean forms part, is said to be also called Kilvean.
In the Abriachan district there are also traces of a Kil
and a number of cairns. At Leys, 3 miles SE of the
burgh of Inverness, is a so-called Druidical circle of no
great size, but very perfect. There are three circles,
the external diameter being 30 paces, and the internal
diameter 6. On the eastern border of the parish is
part of Drummossie Muir, where the battle of Culloden
was fought. Near the mouth of the Ness, now a con-
siderable way within flood-mark, is a large cairn of
stones known as Cairn Aire ('the cairn of the sea'). It
is now marked b}' a beacon, as it is dangerous to vessels
approaching the harbour. Due W of this, in the Beauly
Firth, are other three cairns, in one of which urns have
been discovered. The whole four seem interesting as
pointing to a change in the relative level of sea and
land. Mansions, all noticed separately, are Culloden,
Doehfour, Muirtown, Ness Castle, and Raigmore ; and
19 proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and
upwards, 76 of between £100 and £500, and 88 of from
£50 to £100. Inverness is the seat of a presbytery
in the synod of Moray. There are three charges,
the first, second, and third, for respectively the
High Church, the West Church, and the Gaelic
Church, all of which are in the burgh. The stipend
of the first charge is £388, 10s., with £10 for com-
munion elements, and a manse and glebe worth re-
spectively £55 and £105 a year; that of the second
charge is £387, 18s. Id., with £10 for communion
elements, and with a glebe worth £106 a year, but no
manse ; that of the third charge is £136, 6s. 8d. from
Government, and about £64 from the holders of the
ancient bishop of Moray's rents, with a glebe worth
£25 a year, but no manse. Under the landward school-
board are the youblic schools of Abriachan, Culcabock,
Culduthel, Culloden, and Dochgarroch, which, witli

301

INVERNESS

respective accommodation for 100, 100, 100, 137, and
100 pupils, had (1881) an average attendance of 43, 61,
62, 43, and 45, and grants of £43, 9s. 6d., £46, 8s. 6d.,
£38, 5s. 7d., £32, 12s. 6d., and £44, 10s. Landward
valuation (1882) £27,120, lis. lOd. Pop., inclusive of
burgh (1791) 7930, (1801) 8732, (1821) 12,264, (1841)
15,418, (1861) 16,162, (1871) 18,552, (1881)21,725, of
whom 10,412 were males and 11,313 females. — Ord.
Sur., shs. 83, 84, 1881-76.

The presbytery of Inverness comprehends the parishes
of Inverness, Daviot, Dores, Kiltarlity, Kirkhill, ^Moy,
and Petty. Pop. (1871) 28,224, (1881) 30,092, of whom
917 were commimicants of the Church of Scotland in
1878.— The Free Church has also a presbytery of Inver-
ness, with 5 churches in the burgh, 7 churches in
respectively Daviot, Dores, Kiltarlity, Kirkhill, Moy,
Petty, and Stratherrick, and a mission station in Strath-
glass, which 13 together had 5994 members and adherents
in 1883.

Inverness, a market town, a seaport, a royal burgh,
the county town of Inverness-shii'e, and the chief town
in the Northern Highlands, is in the northern portion
of the parish just described. It stands on the river
Ness from ^ to 2\ miles from its moutli, and a short
distance SW of the Moray Firth end of the Caledonian
Canal. It is the centre of the Highland railway system,
and is by rail ISi miles SE by E of Dingwall, 25 WSW
of Forres, 37 WSW of Elgin, 108i NW by W of Aber-
deen, 144 NNW of Perth, 160* SSW of Wick, 190|
NXW of Edinburgh, and 206i N of Glasgow, while by
road it is 19| miles SSW of Cromarty, and 61^ KE of
Fort William. The Great Glen, after narrowing at the
NE end of Loch Ness, begins to widen out as it ap-
proaches the point of junction with the great hollows
occupied by the iloray and Beauly Firths, and on the
level tract thus formed — a plain marked with but few
inequalities, lying at but a slight elevation above sea-
level, and traversed by the river Ness from SW to NE
— stands the whole of the to^vn of Inverness, except the
southern outskirts. The town is intersected by the
river Ness, and though the greater part of the built space
lies E of the course of the river, yet the parliamentary
boundary extends almost equally on both sides. The
boundary line extends along the sea-shore from the old
pier at Kessock to a point midway between the mouth
of the river and Longman Point, and the southward
limit is the mouth of the Alltnaskiach Burn, a short
distance below the Ness Islands. On all sides, except
along the sea margin, the site is hemmed in by rising
grounds. The raised sea-beach, which extends along
most of the coast from the Spey to Inverness, and up the
Great Glen to Loch Ness at a height of from 80 to 90
feet, sweeps round to the E and SE of the town, and
stretches away into the interior in a highly cultivated
table-land from 1 to 3 miles broad. Behind this is the
ridge, which, rising gradually from the plain NE of
Culloden, sweeps south-westward at an average height
of about 400 feet, and ultimately passes into the moun-
tain chain that flanks the SE side of Loch Ness. The
heights on the SW side of the Loch are continued by
ridges to Dunean Hill (940 feet) and the round-topped
Craig Phadrick ; while on the opposite shore of the
firth (which at Kessock is only 1000 yards wide), from
the Ord Hill of Kessock high ground stretches away
westward along the shore of the Beauly Firth, and
north-eastward along the district between the Cromarty
and Moray Firths, and known as the Black Isle. In
the plain are two remarkable little hills at the distance
respectively of 1 and 2 miles from the town ; the first is
Tomnahurich ('the hill of the fairies'), 223 feet high, and
shaped like tlie hull of a ship turned upside down. It
is finely wooded, and is now very tastefully laid out as
an extramural cemetery ; the second is Torbhean or
Torvean, a long gravel ridge about 300 feet high, marked
with traces of ancient Caledonian fortifications.

The environs of the town are very beautiful, and

some of the views of the scenery beyond exceedingly

fine. ' Inverness,' says Dr M'Culloch in \\\s Letters on

the Highla-ivls, where he rises on this point into very

302

INVERNESS

unusual enthusiasm, ' has been strangely underrated.
. . ,. When I have stood in Queen Street of Edin-
burgh and looked towards Fife, I have sometimes won-
dered whether Scotland contained a finer view of its
class. But I have forgotten this on viy arrival at Inver-
ness. Surely, if a comparison is to be made with Edin-
burgh, always excepting its own romantic disposition,
the Firth of Forth must yield the palm to the iloray
Firth, the surrounding country must yield altogether,
and Inverness must take the highest rank. Everything
is done, too, for Inverness that can be effected by wood
and cultivation ; the characters of which, here, have alto-
gether a richness, a variety, and a freedom which we
miss round Edinburgh. The mountain screens are finer,
more various, and more near. Each outlet is different
from the others, and each is beautiful ; whether we
proceed towards Fort George or towards Moy, or enter
the valley of the Ness or skirt the shores of the Beauly
Firth, while a short and commodious ferry wafts us to
the lovely country opposite, rich with wood, and country
seats, and cultivation. It is the boast, also, of Inverness
to unite two opposite qualities, and each in the greatest
perfection — the characters of a rich, open, lowland
country, with those of the wildest Alpine scenery, both
also being close at hand, and in many places inter-
mixed ; while to all this is added a series of maritime
landscape not often equalled.' From the Castle HiU —
a projection north-westward from the terrace already
mentioned — the view has been, and not unjustly, de-
scribed as magnificent. On the SW the eye ranges over
a well-wooded foreground, and along the ridges that
bound Loch Ness as far as the dome-shaped peak of
Mealfourvonie. To the W is the wooded ridge which
terminates in Craig Phadrick, and beyond are the hills
that cluster around the upper part of the Beauly Firth.
Beyond the gleaming line of the Firths to the N are the
wooded ridges that sweep from the Ord Hill of Kessock,
westward by Redcastle, and eastward towards Fortrose,
from which they pass on and terminate in the rugged
Sutors of Cromarty. Beyond, but still at no great dis-
tance, rises the huge lumpy Ben W^yvis (3429 feet), with
its flat extended top ; while to the NE spreads the
opening Firth, bounded by the dim, distant mountain
ranges of Elgin, Banff", Sutherland, and Caithness. In
the Ness, just be}K)nd the parliamentary boundary to
the S of the town, are two islands known as Ness
Islands. They are beautifully wooded, and the walks
through the trees form a very pleasing summer resort.
Last century the magistrates used here to give open-air
entertainments to the Judges of Assize. The islands
are connected with one another and with the banks of
the river by light suspension bridges.

History. — By Boece and Buchanan Inverness is
connected with one of the apocryphal kings, and is
assigned an origin at least sixty years before the Chris-
tian era ; but though it was probatily a seat of population
in the centre of a closely-peopled district in the remote
age of British hill-strengths and vitrified forts, yet the
first really authentic notice of the district that we have
is in Adamnan's Life of St Columha. From this it may
be gathered that about 565 the saint made his way to
the Court of Brude, king of the northern Picts, who had
his residence ' at some distance, though not far, from
the banks of the river Ness. ' Dr Reeves, in his edition
of Adamnan, is inclined to identify its site with Craig
Phadrick ; but Dr Skene objects that it is ' unlikely that
in the 6th century the royal palace should have been in
a vitrified fort on the top of a rocky hill, nearly 500
feet high, and it is certainly inconsistent with the nar-
rative that S. Columba should have had to ascend such
an eminence to reach it.' He himself is inclined to
place the Pictish capital on the ridge of Torvean, already
mentioned, or more probably about ' the eminence E
of Inverness called the Crown, where tradition places
its oldest castle.' The King, who was, previous to the
saint's arrival, lost in paganism, did not give Columba
a very cordial welcome, and indeed closed the door of
the fort against him ; but the saint ' approached the
folding doors with his companions, and, having first

INVERNESS

formed upon them the sign of the cross, he knocked at,
and laid his hand upon, the gate, which instantly flew
open of its own accord, the bolts having been driven
back with great force.' The incident proved too much
for the King, for the Chronicle of the Picts and Scots
tells us he was baptized by St Columba, and Adamnan
himself saj^s that ' when the King learned what had
occurred, he and his councillors were filled with alarm,
and, immediately setting out from the palace, advanced
to meet with due respect the holy man, whom he
addressed in the most conciliatory and respectful lan-
guage. And ever after from that day, as long as he
lived, the King held this holy and reverend man in
very great honour, as was due.' "We are further told
that the saint had great trouble with the Druids at the
King's Court, but vanquished them in many striking
ways. The oldest or original castle of Inverness — which
stood on the Crown, and which has for centuries been
uuti-aceable except by traditional identification of its
site — has been invested with a romantic interest, from
its connection with Shakespeare's Macbeth. That this
edifice was, as Shakespeare assumes, the propertj' of
Macbeth is very probable, as he was by birth the
Mormaer of Ross, and by marriage also of iloray, and
so could hardly fail to have the mastery of the strong-
hold at the mouth of the Ness. It was not, however,
the scene of the murder of King Duncan, for his death
is now recognised as having taken place at Bothgowan,
which Dr Skene identifies with Pitgaveny, near Elgin.
"When Malcolm Ceannmor vanquished his father's mur-
derer, he naturally seized his strongholds, and in all
probability razed his castle at Inverness, and built in-
stead of it, as a royal residence, a fortress on the summit
of the Castle Hill, the site of the present County Build-
ings. This new castle figured for several centuries as
at once a seat of roj^alty and a place of military
strength, receiving at intervals within its walls the
kings and princes of Scotland, and regularly serving as
a vantage-ground, whence they or their servants over-
awed the turbulent and rebellious north. Shaw Mac-
duff, second son of the Earl of Fife — who assumed the
name of Mackintosh, and who, after assisting Malcolm
in crushing an insurrection in Mora}-, acquired a large
extent of property in the north — was made hereditary
governor of the castle. In 1245 it became the prison of
Sir John Bisset of Lovat, for the imputed crimes of
connection ^vith the murder of the Earl of Athole and
of doing homage to the Lord of the Isles. It was soon
afterwards captured during the minority of one of its
hereditary keepers by the Comyns of Badenoch, and
from that time till the beginning of next century it
remained in their possession. In 1296 it received an
English garrison during the visit of Edward I. to the
north ; but the King himself does not seem to have
gone so far. It was again occupied by English troops
in 1303, but, like the other strongholds of the land,
subsequently passed into the hands of Bruce's followers,
and from Bruce's time down to that of James I. it
was in the immediate power of the Crown ; but at the
accession of the latter monarch was, after being repaired
and refortified, again put into the hereditary keeping
of the captain of the Clan Chattan, the chief of the
Mackintoshes. In 1427 James I., when on a progress
through the north to punish some turbulent chiefs,
lived in the castle, and held in it a parliament, to
which all the northern barons were sunynoned. Alex-
ander, Lord of the Isles, was on this occasion made
prisoner for a year ; and when once more set free, re-
turned with an army at his heels to wreak vengeance on
his keepers. He got into the town, under the pretence
of friendship for it, and then immediately pillaged the
place and set it on fire ; but his bold attempt to seize
the castle was successfully resisted. In 1455 John, his
successor (who was quite as turbulent as he), or more
probably Donald Balloch of Isla, acting as Jolm's lieu-
tenant, rushed down upon the town, and, after taking
the castle by surprise, again plundered and burned the
town. In 1464 the castle was visited and temporarily
occupied by James III., and in 1499 by James IV. In

INVERNESS

150S the keepership of the castle was conferred here-
ditarily on the Earl of Huntly ; and in 1751 we find
the Duke of Gordon claiming £300 as compensation for
the abolition of his hereditary olfice of constable of the
castle of Inverness. In 1555 the castle received the
Queen Regent, Mary of Guise, and was the scene of a
Convention of Estates and of extraordinary courts, sum-
moned by her to quiet the Highlands and punish caterans
and political oflendcrs ; and the Earl of Caithness was
consigned to one of its dungeons because he had har-
boured freebooters. In 1562 Queen Mary, having en-
tered the town attended by the Earl of Moray, was
refused admission to the castle, as the governor was a
retainer of the Earl of Huntly, who was in rebellion.
She was in consequence obliged to take up her residence
and hold her Court in a private house, till, her troops
having been stren.gthened by the accession of the
Mackintoshes, the Erasers, and the Munroes, the castle
was reduced and the governor hanged. In 1644, on
intelKgence of the descent of a party of Irish on the
west coast to join the Marquis of Montrose, the castle
was put in thorough repair and fully garrisoned, and
next year it successfully held out under Hurry against
a regular siege by Montrose's troops. In 1649 Mac-
kenzie of Pluscarden, Sir Thomas Urquhart of Cromarty,
and other roj^alists took the castle, demolished the for-
tifications, and left the ruins to decay and desolation.
The time of the Revolution, however, saw it again
patched up and used as a stronghold for the Jacobites,
the magistrates of the burgh being warmlj" attached to
the cause of the dethroned dynasty. It was, however,
soon wrested from them, and again used as a royal fort.
In 1718 the government of George I. repaired it, con-
verted the ancient part into barracks for Hanoverian
troops, added a new part to serve as a governor's house,
and gave the whole structure the name of Fort George.
From engravings and from the description in Burt's
Letters from the Ilighlands, written in 1725, it appears
to have been an imposing battlemented structure of six
stories, with sharp-pointed roofs and corner turrets. In
1745 it was occupied successivelj' by Sir John Cope and
the Earl of Loudon on behalf of the government ; while
in 1746 it fell into the hands of Prince Charles Edward
on his return from England, and was blown up. Though
the castle was thus rendered uninhabitable and useless,
a large part of the walls long remained entire ; but now
nothing is left save two bastions with part of the cur-
tain wall, on the E side of the ascent from the Castle
"WjTid. The site has since been occupied by the County
Buildings and prison.

What may have been the appearance of King Brude's
munitio and domus mentioned by Adamnan it is impos-
sible to tell, but the huts of the common people, which
must have stood near at hand, would be the earliest re-
presentatives of the buildings that form the burgh of
Inverness ; and the somewhat better dwellings that
would naturally cluster round the subsequent strong-
hold on the Crown would represent the second stage of
the town's gro^\i;h. Some have even regarded the stone
mth a hole in its centre, which was dug up a number of
years ago to the E of the road^by KingsmiUs to Perth, as
the socket of the original cross, but this is highly doubt-
ful. Certain it is that even after it had ceased to be the
capital of Pictland, the place still remained of impor-
tance, and early came into prominence as one of the prin-
cipal centres of the country. Tradition even — in face
of the fact that such things were unknown at the time —
asserts that its erection into a royal burgh was in the
time of Malcolm Ceannmor. Though that cannot, there-
fore, be the case, yet it was by David I. constituted one
of the six chief places of the kingdom — loca capitalia
Scotice coraitatuum 2}cr totum regnum — where the King's
Justiciar held his court. It was at the same time
made a royal burgh and the scat of a sheriff, whose
authority extended over all the N of Scotland, and was
thus one of the earliest free towns in the kingdom.
William the Lyon seems to have regarded the rising
burgh with particular favour, for he granted it four
sei)arate charters by which persons residing beyond the

303

INVERNESS

bounds of the burgh were prohibited from making 'cloths
dj-ed and shorn contrary to the assize of David I. , ' and the
burgesses were granted exemption from wager of battle
in civil cases, and from paying toll on their merchan-
dise anywhere within the kingdom. Three of these
charters are still in possession of the corporation, and
form the commencement of a series of ancient munici-
pal records which is fuller than that of almost any other
burgh in the kingdom. William also caused a fosse to
be dug round the town on condition that the burgesses
should erect a good palisade and agree to keep it in re-
)>air. During the period previous to the invasion ot
Scotland by Edward I. , the Scottish kings occasionally
visited the burgh on those frequent occasions when their
jiower was called into play by incursions of the Norse
and the northern Yikiugs, or the necessity of quelling
the insurrections of the wild inhabitants and the tur-
bulent chiefs of the adjacent countr}'. In 1229 a power-
ful chief named Gillespick M'Scomiane burned the town,
spoiled the Crown lands adjacent to it, and, in his effort
to assume roj'al authority, slew all who would not
acknowledge his authority, but was afterwards defeated,
captured, and beheaded. In 1233, according to Car-
donel, Alexander II. founded a convent at Inverness for
the Dominican Friars. Taylor, in his Edicard I. in the
North of Scotland, says that this same monarch — who
was a benefactor of the burgh in various ways — settled
also a colony of Franciscans or Grey Friars, who have
given name to the modern street and the burying-ground ;
but there is some obscurity on this point, for Provost
Inglis, in a MS. dated 1795, and now in the Advo-
cates' Library, says that the monastery at Inver-
ness was always 'called by the inhabitants "The Grej'
Friars," although the only one of which we have an
account in history was that founded by the Dominican
Order. ... It appears by the town's records,
that the stones of the Friars' Kirk were sold in
the year 1653 to Colonel Lilburne, commanding the
troops of the Commonwealth, for building a fort at
the river mouth, which was called Oliver's Fort.' In
1372, during a quarrel between the Abbot of Ar-
broath and the Bishop of Moray, the followers of the
former burned the town of Inverness and the Domini-
can Monastery, but it must soon have been restored
again, for the decision of the Bishops of ]\Ioray and
I'lOss in the dispute between the Wolfe of Badenoch and
liis wife was read 'in the church of the Preaching Friars,
Inverness, the 2d day of the month of November in the
year of the Lord 1389.' Mention of the monastery oc-
curs from time to time in various documents down to
1559, when the prior and brethren were obliged to give
u^) their property to the safe keernng of the Provost
and Magistrates of Inverness. What became of the
silver chalices, spoons, etc. , handed over, is not known,
but the tenements, rents, etc. , were speedily taken pos-
session of by their keepers ; and, in 1567, a formal grant
of all the property ' which formerly pertained to the
Dominican or Preaching Friars ' was obtained from
Queen Mary, and this was further confirmed by James
YI. in 1587.

In the thirteenth century the trade of the burgh was
extensive, and was, like so much of the northern trade in
those days, mostly in the hands of Flemings. The
l)rineipal exports were wool, cloths, furs, hides, fish, and
cattle — the furs possibly including beaver skins ; for,
according to Boece, beavers were at one time found on
the banks of Loch Ness, and one of the Scottish Acts of
Parliament in the time of David I. records ' beveris
skins ' among Scottish exports. Inverness was at this
time too the principal station for the herring fishing in
the Moray Firth, and, in 1263, tlie Chamberlain's ac-
counts mention that Lawrence le Graunt, sheriflF of the
county, paid 20 marks for 20 lasts of lierrings which he
had purchased for the king's household, and 105 shillings
and 3 pence for their freight to Leith. JIaterials for ship-
building too abounded in the neighbourhood, and, in
1249, Hugh de Chatellar, Count of "^St Paul and Blois,
liad a vessel built here which Matthew Paris mentions asi
being called 'the wonderful ship,' on account of its gi'eat
30i

INVERNESS

size. After the accession of Bruce, and during the suc-
cessive reigns of the Stewarts till near the Union, In-
verness was constantly exposed to predatory visits from
the islesmen and the northern clans, and there is a long
record of skirmishes between its inhabitants and their
assailants, and of black mail paid as the price of the
forbearance of rapacious neighbours. At times, too,
stratagems were tried, and tradition records how, in the
end of the fourteenth century, when a large body of
islesmen advanced to Kessock Ferry, and sent a message
menacing the town with destruction if a large ransom
were not paid, the provost aflected to agree to the
terms dictated, and sent a large quantity of spirits as a
present to the chief and his followers. When the isles-
men, rushing headlong into the trap, had got helplessly
drunk, the provost and citizens pounced on them and
slew almost the whole. Their foes had, however, a sub-
sequent revenge, for, in 1411, the to^vn was burned by
Donald, Lord of the Isles, while he was on his way to
Harlaw.

The burgh had a new charter granted to it by James
III., and, in addition to that given by James VI. al-
ready mentioned, this monarch, who seems to have had
considerable favour for the burgh, granted what is
known as the 'great charter' in 1591, and this was
ratified by the Estates in the time of Charles II. The
importance of Inverness, as the key of the Highlands,
was fully recognised by Oliver Cromwell, and it accord-
ingl}- became the locality of one of the four forts which
he constructed for the purpose of overawing Scotland.
This building — now popularly known as the Citadel-
was erected in 1652-57 on the N side of the town, on
the E bank of the river Ness, near its mouth, and cost
£80,000. ' It was a regular pentagon, surrounded at
lull tide with water sufficient to float a small bark.
The breastwork was three storeys high, all of hewn stone,
and lined with brick inside. The sally-port lay towards
the town. The principal gateway was to the north, where
was a strong drawbridge of oak, and a stately structure
over it with this motto : " Togam tucntur arma." From
this bridge the citadel was approached by a vault 70 feet
long, with seats on each side.' At opposite sides of the
area, within the ramparts, stood two long buildings,
each four stories high — the one called the English build-
ing because built by Englishmen, and the other called the
Scottish building because built by Scotchmen. In the
centre of the area stood a large square edifice three stories
high, the lower part occupied as a magazine and provision-
store, and the highest part fitted up as a church, covered
over with a pavilion roof, and surmounted by a tower
with a clock and four bells. There was accommodation
for 1000 men. ' England supplied the oak planks and
beams ; Strathglass, the fir ; recourse was had to the
monasteries of Kinloss and Beauly, the Bishop's Castle
of Chanonry, the Greyfriars' Church, and St Mary's
Chapel, in Inverness, for the stone-work ; and so abun-
dant were the provisions and supplies of the garrison
that a Scots pint of claret sold for a shilling, and cloth
was bought as cheap as in England. ' Under the keen
administration of the Commonwealth the fort so annoyed
the Highland chiefs, that, at their request, and in ac-
knowledgment of their loyalty, it was destroyed soon
after the Eestoratiou, when its buildings became a quarry
lor the burghers, and their materials were freely carried
otF and used in the construction of many of the existing
houses in town. Part of the ramparts too was taken
away, but the greater part still remains, while a portion
of the fosse, in a widened and improved condition, is
now included in the harbour.

Subsequent to the Revolution the inhabitants of
Inverness distinguished themselves by enthusiastic
attachment to both Prelacy and Jacobitism. So much
so indeed was the former in favour, that in 1091,
when a Presbyterian minister was for the first time
after the abolition of Episcopacy appointed to the vacant
church, the magistrates stationed armed men at the
cliurch doors to prevent his admission. Duncan Forbes
of CuUoden, father of the famous Lord President Forbes,
who attempted to force him into the interior, wa.s

liPfSmi^'B iilll

S^.! ^

?^

'M

Xx^

INVERNESS

driTcn back, and the resistance continued till a regi-
ment of soldiers appeared on the scene and placed the
presentee in the pulpit at the point of the bayonet. For
years afterwards the magistrates used every means to
support and forward the Jacobite cause, and at the acces-
sion of George I. to the throne, they openly opposed
and endeavoured to prevent his proclamation, and
roused the populace to a riot. In 1715 Inverness was
occupied by the Macintoshes for the Jacobites, but the
post was recovered by the exertions of the lairds of
CuUoden and Kilravock, aided by Lord Lovat, and the
castle was then repaired as already noticed. During
the rebellion of 1745-46, and especially in the stir which
preceded and followed its closing scene at CuUoden, the
town was regarded as virtually the capital of the losing
side. ' The English troops committed excesses unusual
even in a foreign country, and Provost Hossack, going
to remonstrate, is, by tradition, said to have been
kicked downstairs by Cumberland's orders. Hundreds
were confined in the parish church, and many taken
out to the churchyard and shot. The stone behind
which they knelt, as also that on which the soldiers
rested their muskets and took aim at their victims, are
still seen.' Charles Edward and Cumberland when in
Inverness lived in turn in the same house. It belonged
to Lady Mackintosh, the widow of the twentieth chief
of the clan, and stood on the W side of Church Street.
It is said to have been the only house then in Inverness
having a reception-room without a bed in it. From
this time onwards the path of the burgh has been one
of peace and prosperity, and but few modern events of
note need here be noticed. The first public coach be-
tween Inverness and Perth began to run in 1806, and
took over two days to accomplish the distance, and in
1811 a mail coach began to run to Aberdeen, and about
1819 continued its course to Tain and to Staxigoe near
Wick. On the night of 16 Aug. 1816 the whole place
was alarmed by a smart shock of earthquake, which
threw down the chimney tops of many houses, twisted
the old steex^le, and set the bells a-ringing. In 1822 the
town was much benefited by the opening of the Cale-
donian Canal, and subsequently in 1855 by the open-
ing of the Inverness and Nairn railway, which was
extended to Keith in 1858, and was thus the beginning
of the present extensive Highland Railway system,
■which, in 1863 and subsequent years, extended itself over
the north of Scotland. The Free Libraries Act was
adopted in 1877, and a building, costing £3482, for a
library of 5440 vols., museum, and school of art, was
opened in Castle Wynd in 1883. In 1877 also, in conse-
quence of the territorial rearrangement of the army, the
Government resolved to make Inverness a garrison town,
and barracks are (1883) being erected on gi'ound at the
Crown to the E of the town. They are Scottish Baronial
in style, and are to cost £60,000. The territorial regi-
ment to be connected with this — the 79th — district is the
old 79th Highlanders or The Queen's Own Cameron
Highlanders. The Highland and Agricultural Society
have held their show at Inverness in the years 1831,
'39, '46, '56, '65, '74, and '83, and it was visited by the
late Prince Consort on 16 Sept. 1847, when he was pre-
sent at the Northern Meeting ball. The town is the
birthplace of Sir Alexander Mackenzie, the author of
Primitive Marriage, the North American traveller (1783-
1820), and of J. F. M'Lennan, LL.D. (1827-81).

The town itself, viewed apart from its surroundings,
might be called almost entirely lowland, and it will
bear comparison with most of the best modern towns of
the same size in Great Britain. Defoe, in his Journey
through Scotland (1723), says there were then 'two
very good streets in this town, and tlie people are more
polite than in most towns in Scotland. They speak as
good English here as at London, and with an English
accent ; and ever since Oliver Cromwell was here they
are in their manners and dress entirely English ; ' and
Burt says that but few houses in the town were slated.
Still later the houses were mostly mere thatched cot-
tages, with here and tliere town mansions in tlie Flemish
style belonging to the landed proprietors of the surround-

INVERNESS

ing district. Many of the houses were ranged along
narrow lanes or closes, with their gable ends to the
street, while some had outside stone staircases ascend-
ing to the entrance on the first floor, and others opened
off inner coui'ts with arched doorways. A vigorous
course of change seems to have set in about 1775, and
again in the close of last century under the then Provost
William Inglis. Before 1740 harness and saddlery of
all sorts Avere so little required that in that year the
magistrates found it necessary to advertise for a saddler
to come and settle in the town ; and prior to 1775, when
the first bookseller's shop was opened in the burgh, the
few people in the large tract of country around who
were able, and had occasion, to write letters, were sup-
plied with materials by the postmaster. About the
middle of last century a hat had not graced any head
in the north except that of a landed proprietor or a
minister, and when it was first assumed by a burgher
in the person of the deacon of the weavers it excited
the highest ridicule of the blue-bonneted multitude,
and drew from them such constant twitting and raillery,
as only the stoutest pertinacity and the sturdiest inde-
pendence could have enabled the worthy deacon to
resist. At the same period the universal costume was
Celtic and primitive, and so late as about 1790 only
three ladies with straw bonnets were to be seen in the
High Church. Now old customs, usages, and costume
have almost entirely disappeared, and the old games of
shinty, etc. , have gone along with them. The Inver-
ness pronunciation of English, which Defoe particularly
notices, still enjoys a character of great purity, and of
being little, if at all, affected by the broad forms of the
usual lowland dialect. This is generally ascribed^ to
the influence of the soldiers of the commonwealth during
the years they occupied Cromwell's fort.

Lines of Street, etc. — Tlie section of the town on the
right bank of the river includes all the site of the
original town, together with many of the modern ex-
tensions, while the section on the left bank is entirely
modern, and exhibits somewhat greater regularity of
plan. The principal streets on the SE side are High
Street, Bridge Street, Petty Street, Inglis Street,
Church Street, Union Street, Academy Street, Chapel
Street, Shore Street, and Castle Street ; the principal
ones on the NW side are Huntly Street, Telford Street,
Celt Street, Grant Street, Queen Street, Kessock Street,
Telford Eoad, Tomnahurich Street, and Ardross Street.
The central district, representative of the old town,
forms an acute-angled triangle of which the sides are
Church Street, Inglis Street, and Academy Street, and
this is still the centre of population and business. The
streets were first causewayed, sewers formed, and foot-
paths laid with flags in 1831. In High Street on the
site now occupied by the British Linen Company's
Bank was the old town-house of Lord Lovat. The
house in which Queen Mary lodged when refused admis-
sion to the castle was, according to tradition, in Bridge
Street, which is one of the oldest streets in the town.
Castle Street takes its present name from the neighbour-
hood of the castle, part of whose walls, as already noticed,
adjoin the W side. The old name was Domesdale, as it
led to the place of execution. The large burying-
ground known as the Chapel-yard in Chapel Street is
the cemetery of the Dominican monastery already men-
tioned. Before the present entrance to it was formed,
it had a neat richly-sculptured gateway with the in-
scription, 'Concordia parvse res crescunt.' Union
Street, extending from Academy Street to Church
Street, was opened up shortly after the completion of
the railway system in 1863. The prosperity following
this led also to the formation of Innes Street and
Ardross Street, the reconstruction of the greater part
of Tomnahurich Street, and the formation of a number
of new streets towards Muirtowu and Merkinch.

Bridges.— T^fi Ness was, up to tlie year 1664, crossed
by a wooden bridge, which is characterised by one of
Cromwell's officers as ' the weakest that ever straddled
over so strong a stream.' It communicated with the
town on the right bank of the river by an arched way

305

INVEBNESS

which was surmounted by a house. In Sept. 1664 a
crowd of upwards of 100 persons caused the fall of the
frail structure, though, curiously, none of the persons
on it at the time was seriously injured. A new one was
erected between 1685 and 1689 partly by public sub-
scriptions and partly by large contributions from the
town funds. It was a substantial structure of seven
arches, and stood till 1849, when it was swept away by
a flood, and in place of it the present suspension bridge
in a line with High Street was constructed by Govern-
ment at an expense of £26,000. Farther up, at the
upper end of Ness Bank, is a handsome suspension foot-
bridge erected at a cost of £2000 raised by subscription,
and opened in 1882. Below the main suspension bridge
is also another suspension foot-bridge in the line of
Greig Street, erected by public subscription in 1878,
and lower still are a wooden bridge near the harbour and
a railway viaduct. The former was first erected by sub-
scription in 1808 ; the latter is a massive stone structure
of five arches of 73 feet span, four land arches of 20 feet
span, and two girder bridges of 37^ and 25 feet span,
one over Shore Street and the other over Anderson
Street.

Public Buildings, etc. — The Town Hall stands in High
Street, opposite the end of Church Street. It is a build-
ing in the Scottish style with Flemish features, and cost
about £15,000. The building, which was designed by
Messrs Matthews & Lawrie, originated from a bequest
of £6000 made by Mr Grant ofBught for the purpose
of erecting a public hall. It was begun in 1878, and
opened by the Duke of Edinburgh on 19 Jan. 1882.
In the centre of the principal front which faces the open
space known as the Exchange is a gable with round
towers at the sides and an oak spirelet, while a large
panel over the centre window has the town's arms sculp-
tured on it. The windows on the main staircase are of
stained glass, showing the royal arms, the town's arms,
and the Scottish arms. The main hall is 66 feet long,
35 wide, and 33 high, with a ceiling of pitch pine
panelled and decorated with heraldic emblems. The
windows contain stained glass, some showing the arms
of the Scottish clans, of the trade incorporations of the
burgh, the royal arms, and the Scottish arms, others
allegorical representations of Art, Science, Law, Agricul-
ture, Education, and Literature. It contains a capitally-
executed copy of Phillip's portrait of the late Prince
Consort, a good copy of Ramsay's portrait of Flora
Macdonald, portraits of Duncan Forbes of CuUoden
and of some other men of more local note, as well as a
bust of the late Dr Carruthers, by Alexander Munro.
OflBces are provided in the building for the town cham-
berlain and the town clerk. In the centre of the Ex-
change is a fountain presented to the town in 1880 by
Dr G. F. Forbes, which serves as a protection for the
palladium of the burgh, the well-known Clach-na-cudhin
or 'stone of the tubs,' which used at one time, long ere
the question of water supply became troublesome, to
stand in the centre of the street, and was then employed
by the servant girls as a convenient resting place for
tubs in passing to and from the river. The old cross,
which used also of old to stand out in the street, is now
placed at the W end of the new hall. The old town-
hall — a very plain building of 1708 — stood on the same
site, and was removed to make way for the present
structure. The County Hall, locally known as the
Castle, stands on the Castle Hill, a short distance
SE of High Street, and occupies the site of the old
castle formerly noticed. The present building, erected
in 1834-35, after designs by Mr Burns of Edinburgh, at
a cost of £7500, is a massive square castellated structure
of somewhat squat proportions. Adjoining it is the
County Prison built in 1843 and legalised in 1849. It
harmonises in style with the County Hall, and with its
numerous turrets helps to give dignity to the whole
structure on the hill. Within the Castle are the
rooms where the Northern Circuit Justiciary Courts
are held. In the Court House is a portrait by IJaeburn
of the iJite Charles Grant, long M.P. for the county.
One of the early prisons was a vault in the masonry
306

INVERNESS

between the second and third arches of the old stone
bridge already noticed. It was a dismal chamber of
about 12 feet square, and light was admitted by a small
grated opening on the S side of the pier. The entrance
was by an opening in the roadway of the bridge from
which a flight of stairs led to a massive iron door. It
seems to have been used till late in the 18th century,
and must have been a wretched abode. There was
another tolbooth in Bridge Street, of the sanitary
arrangements of which some idea may be gathered from
the entry in the town records in Sept. 1709, that the
town-clerk ' paid an officer 4s. 6d. Scots to buy a cart of
peats to be burnt in the tolbooth to remove the bad
scent ; ' and in Dec. 1737, the magistrates ordered the
town-clerk to purchase ' an iron spade to be given to
the hangman for cleaning the tolbooth.' It must have
been a very wretched place, for in an official memorial
from the Town Council to the Commission of Supply, it
is described as consisting ' only of two small cells for
criminals and one miserable room for civil debtors,'
and it is further declared that there were ' at present
and generally about thirty persons confined in these
holes, none of which is above thirteen feet square.'
This was in 1786, and the building was demolished
about 1790, and was replaced by a new one erected at
the corner of Church Street and High Street at a cost of
£3400, of which £1600 was for the steeple which still
stands, although the other buildings were removed in
1854. The steeple is 130 feet high, and was much
twisted by the earthquake of 1816, but was straightened
some years after. The Music Hall is a large building
in Union Street, erected subsequent to 1864, and since
1871 licensed for the performance of plays ; but for this
purpose it is pretty much superseded by the Inverness
Theatre in Bank Street, which was opened in Nov. 1882.
The latter belongs to a joint stock company, and is a
plain building with comfortable accommodation for an
audience of 700.

The Northern Meeting Rooms are near the head of
Church Street. The building, which was erected by
subscription, is spacious but heavy and clumsy. There
is a ball-room and a dining-room, each being 60 feet
long by 30 wide. In the ball-room is a full length por-
trait of the last Duke of Gordon (a copy of Lawrence's
picture in the Aberdeen County Hall), one of his wife
by Hayter, and a kit-cat of the celebrated Jane, Duchess
of Gordon, by Sir Joshua Reynolds. The Northern
Meeting, instituted in 1788, is the great gathering of the
North, and is attended by nobility and gentry from all
parts of the kingdom. The meeting is held annually in
September, the forenoons being devoted to exhibitions
of highland games and the evenings to balls. There is
a permanent pavilion on the SW side of Ardross Street,
in the park in which the games, etc. are held. The
park is also used as a cricket ground by the Northern
Counties Cricket Club. The Young Men's Christian
Association Building, at the foot of Castle Street, front-
ing High Street, was erected in 1868 at a cost of £3500.
It has composite pillars surmounted by a frieze, cornice,
and entablature. Over the hall windows are medallions
of eminent men, and over the door is a colossal group
representing Faith, Hope, and Charity. The Work-
men's Club is in Drummond Street. It dates from about
1862, and has a billiard and bagatelle room, and a
library and reading-room. The library contains over
7000 volumes, including a donation of books from the
Queen. The Volunteer Drill Hall, near the entrance to
Bell's Park, is an extensive building, erected in 1873 at
a cost of £1400. The Public Markets, with entrances
from Academy Street, Church Street, and Union Street,
were erected in 1870 at a cost of £3000, and occupy a
former opeia market space. The main front is to Market
Street, opposite the railway station, and has a large
apartment suitable for a public hall or a corn exchange.
The railway .station stands at the SW end of Academy
Street, and fronts the end of Union Street. There is a
large hotel adjoimng. The greater part of the present
structure (which replaced a plainer building on the
same site) was erected in 1875-76 at a cost of £12,000,

INVERNESS

and £6000 was again spent on extensions in 1881.
The style is Italian, with a good deal of ornament.
The railway company have large workshops farther to
the E. The head office of the Caledonian Bank is in
High Street, opposite Castle Street. Above the base-
ment, which contains two finely carved archwa3-s, is a
large portico with four fluted Corinthian columns sup-
porting a pediment flanked by large vases with medallion
portraits of the Queen and Prince Albert. In the
tympanum is a finely executed gi'oup of allegorical
figures by Ritchie, of Edinburgh. ' The centre figure
is Caledonia, holding in her hand the Roman fasces em-
blematical of unity. On the right is a figure represent-
ing the Ness, from whose side rises another female form
symbolic of a tributary stream. On the extreme right
are two small figures rowing a bark representing Com-
merce. On the left is Plenty pouring out the contents
of her cornucopia, a reaper with an armful of cut com,
a shepherd and sheep emblematical of the rural interests
of the country. ' The Town and County Bank occupies
a handsome block of buildings which was purchased for
it in 1877 for £3700. The Northern Infirmary stands
on the left bank of the Ness to the S^Y of the Cathedral,
and was erected in 1S03-4. It has a long plain front
with a centre and two wings, and is supported by public
and private collections and siibscriptions. The Northern
Lunatic Asylum stands about Ij mile SW of the town,
on the face of the slope between Dunean and Craig
Phadrick, at a height of 320 feet above sea-level. The
position is commanding and the view magnificent. The
buildings were erected in 1860 under the Lunacy Act
(Scotland) of 1857 at a cost of £45,000. The frontage
extends to about 600 feet, there are two central pavilion
towers 90 feet high, and the building, with its sharp
pointed roofs and angle turrets, is plain but bold. There
is accommodation for about 350 inmates. The grounds,
including airing grounds, gardens, and farm, extend to
176 acres, held at an annual feu-duty of £370. The
Poorhouse stands on the old Highland Eoad less than
1 mile S of the town, and was erected in 1S60-61 at a
cost of about £6000. It is a handsome building, with
accommodation for 170 inmates, and the grounds ex-
tend to about 6 acres. The Dispensary and Vaccine
Institution for the Sick Poor in Huntly Street was
established in 1832, and is supported by voluntary con-
tributions, though a recent bequest has given it an
endowment of about £150 a year. A Highland Or-
phanage on the cottage system is at present in course of
erection on the Culduthel road.

Churches. — The Blackfriars must have had a church
in connection with their monastery, and there seem to
have been chapels dedicated to St Giles, to St Thomas,
and to the Virgin Mary. The two latter were about
the present Chapel-yard, and the former occupied the
site of the present Established High Church in Church
Street. Provost Inglis, in the MS. already referred to,
says that the parish church was a very ancient structure,
and that, having become ruinous, it was pulled down in
1769 and the present church built on its site (1769-72).
This latter is a large plain structure. Adjoining it is
an old square tower, said to have been built by Oliver
Cromwell, and containing a soft clear-toned bell, thought
to have been brought by the Protector from Fortrose
Cathedral. It contains 1800 sittings, and is used only
for services in the English language. Beside it is the
Established Gaelic church, the charge being founded by
the Crown in 1706 when the original church was built ;
but the pi'esent very plain structure dates from 1794,
and contains 1200 sittings. There is an old richly
carved oak pulpit of Dutch workmanship. The Estab-
lished "West Church is on the left bank of the river to
the NW, and was erected about 1850. It contains 1670
sittings. The Free High Church is near the river on
the right bank, and was considerably enlarged in 1866.
It is a handsome braiding with a good spire. The Free
North Church is in Chapel Street, and the Free East
and Free "West stand in the NE and N"W parts of the
town respectively. The Queen Street Free church was
originally United Presbyterian, and was erected for Gaelic

INVERNESS

services. It became a Free church in 1874. The United
Presbyterian church in Union Street is a good Gothic
building erected in 1867 to supersede the old church.
A "Wesleyan Methodist church at the junction of Inglis
Street and Academy Street is a graceful Norman build-
ing. It was built in 1867, and superseded a former
church. There are also Independent and Baptist
churches. The Roman Catholic church (St Mary's), on
the river bank, was built in 1831, and has accommoda-
tion for 400 persons. It has a good front. The Epis-
copal Cathedral of the united diocese of Moray, Ross,
and Caithness, of which Inverness is the centre, is in
Ardross Street between the Northern Meeting Park and
the Ness on a site on the river bank that shows it to
excellent advantage. It was constructed after designs
by Mr Alexander Ross, of Inverness, and the style is
English Middle Pointed Gothic. The length is 166
feet, the breadth 72 feet, and the height to the ridge of
the roof 88 feet. There is a clerestoried nave with aisles
terminating at the principal front in two massive towers
which are intended to be finished with spires, bringing
them to the height of 200 feet. There is a short apsidal
choir with side aisles and quasi transepts. There is also
an octagonal chapter-house, and the crossing is sur-
mounted by a fleche. The roof is internally waggon
vaulted with wood, and there are 22 stalls for clergy-
men, 32 seats for choristers, and 630 sittings for the
congregation. There is a fine altar and reredos, and
the pulpit of stone and marble is highly sculptured and
enriched. The windows have stained glass, and there
is an organ with three manuals by Hill. Four single
sculptured figures, and a large group on the tympanum
of the door, were pjut up on the AV front in 1876. The cost
was £20,000 up to the time when it was opened on 1st
Sept. 1867. The foundation-stone was laid by Arch-
bishop Longley of Canterbury, assisted by seven bishops,
in Oct. 1866, and it was opened by Bishop "Wilberforce.
St John's Episcopal Church is Late Perpendicular Gothic
in style, and has a towei', which is, however, incomplete.
It was erected in 1840, and has 350 sittings. The con-
gi-egation is representative of an old one which managed
to survive the troublous times of last century. There
is a mission chapel of the Holy Spirit in connection with
the Cathedral.

Schools.- — Inverness is plentifuUysupplied with schools.
The Royal Academy, on the NE side of Academy Street,
near the railway station, was founded in 1792 for the
liberal education of boys of the upper classes throughout
the Northern Highlands. It is a plain building with a
public hall and a number of class-rooms. There are
separate buildings for girls which were erected in 1867.
There is a large playground, and accommodation for
altogether 782 pupils. A large fund, known as the
Mackintosh of Farr Fund, provides education, clothing,
and board for nineteen boys, and furnishes a university
bursary. It is the interest of a sum of money bequeathed
in 1803 by Captain "W. Mackintosh of the Hinclostan
East Indiaman, and the capital is now valued at £28,000.
The endowment of the school is about £250, but the
total income, inclusive of fees, is about £1500. It is
conducted by a rector, ten masters, a lady superin-
tendent, and two governesses, and is managed by a
body of directors acting under a royal charter. In the
public hall is a bust of a former rector. Hector Eraser,
by "Westmacott, and a painting of the Holy Family by
Sasso Ferrato. One of the academy pupils was the late
Baron Gordon, Lord of Appeal. Connected with the
school is the Roj'al Academy Club, formed in 1864_to
maintain permanent friendship among its former pupils,
and to promote the general interests of the school by the
establishment of bursaries or otherwise. The building
also possesses the remains of the small museum collected
by the Northern Institution for the Promotion of Science
and Literature. The Northern Counties Collegiate
School is on Ardross Terrace, and gives education after
the model of the English public schools. It is managed
by a council of thirteen influential gentlemen, and is
conducted by a head-master and two assistant masters.
There is accommodation for boardei's. Under the Burgh

307

INVERNESS

School Board are the High School, the Central School,
the Merkinch School, and Clachnaharry School, which,
■with respective accommodation for 552, 350, 350, and 150
pupils, had (1881) an average attendance of 253, 312, 346,
and 76, and grantsof £219, 13s. 6d., £230, 13s. 6d., £285,
7s., and £51, 4s. The old High School, on School
Hill, was originally a Free Church Model Institution, but
passed in 1873 to the School Board, who, in 1879-80,
erected a new High School in King's Mills Road at a
cost of £6000. It is Gothic in style, and is well fitted
up. The others call for no remark, Raining's School
is on School Hill. It sprang from a bequest of £1000
made in 1747 by Dr John Raining of Norwich, for the
purpose of building and endowing a school in any part
of the Highlands the General Assembly might appoint.
It is now under the management of the Society in Scot-
land for Propagating Christian Knowledge, and is con-
ducted by a master and a lady superintendent. Bell's
Institution, or Farraliue Park School, is to the NE of
the Acadeni}'. It is a handsome building, erected by
the Magistrates and Town Council as trustees of the
late Dr Andrew Bell of Egraont, and ati'ords instruction
to a large number of children, who are taught on the
Madras or monitorial system, of which Dr Bell was
such a stauneh advocate. Other schools are the Govern-
ment School of Arts, the Reformatory School in Rose
Street, Bishop Eden's Mission School, a Roman Catholic
School, and various private schools.

Trade and Commerce, etc. — Malting was for genera-
tions the chief employment in the town, -which enjoyed
almost a monopoly in the trade, and supplied all the
northern counties, the Hebrides, and the Orkneys with
malt. In the end of the 17th century half the architec-
ture of the town was a mass of malting-houses, kilns,
and granaries ; but from that time the trade gradually
fell off, and by 1745 the place looked almost like a mass
of ruin from the deserted and dilapidated buildings
connected -with the malt trade. At the end of last
century an extensive white and coloured linen thread
manufacture, that is said to have given employment
to 10,000 people, had its centre at Inverness, but it is
now gone owing to the spirited competition of the
towns of Forfarshire. A bleachfield and two hemp
manufactories then in operation have also disappeared.
A woollen factory on the Ness at Holm, about 2 miles
up the river, was established about 1798, and is the
oldest woollen factory in the north of Scotland. It is
worked by both water and steam, employs about 100
hands, and produces tweeds, mauds, plaiding, and
blanketing. There are also the large works in connection
with the Highland railway, ship and boat building yards,
two large wood-yards and saw-mills, several polished
granite and marble works, a rope work, a tan work, two
breweries, a distillery, a tobacco manufactorj'^, several
foundries, and two nurseries. Considerable trade also
accrues from the town being the residence of respectable
annuitants, and from its being a centre for tourists and
sportsmen. The railway now makes communication
easy and rapid, both S and N, and Mr Macbrayne's
steamers, which ply from Glasgow to Inverness by the
Caledonian Canal — twice a week all the year round, and
during the summer months once a day — connect it
readily with the SW of Scotland. Since 1875 a steamer
Las also plied once a fortnight from Liverpool to Inver-
ness, Aberdeen, and Leith, and vice versa, going by the
Caledonian Canal. This makes Inverness a centre from
which all sorts of miscellaneous goods are supplied to
the smaller towns and villages throughout a very large
tract of country round about. Along the river there
are considerable salmon fishings. There are ordinary
markets every Tuesday and Friday, and markets for
horses, cattle, and sheep are held on the Fridays suc-
ceeding the Muir of Ord market. The great Wool Fair
is held on the second Thursday of July and the suc-
ceeding Friday and Saturday. It was established in
1817 for the sale of sheep and wool, and took place
originally in June, but the date was afterwards changed
to July. The sales effected every year average about
£200,000. There are produce markets on the last
308

INVERNESS

Friday in July and in August, and on the last Thursday
in November, and a hiring fair is held on the Friday
before 26 May. A fat stock exhibition is held in the
end of the year.

For several centuries prior to the Union, Inverness
was much frequented by foreign traders, and carried on
a considerable commerce with continental ports, but
much of this was in the first half of the 18tli century
diverted to Glasgow. An improved state of matters
followed, however, on the changes that took place in the
Highlands subsequent to 1745-46, and the commerce
was still further extended by the transference of trade
from foreign ports to the port of London, which began
about 1803, and again received fresh extension after the
full completion of the Caledonian Canal in 1847. The
Aberdeen and Leith trade at one time carried on by
steamers has now passed over to the Railway Company.
The registration district of the port extends from Inver-
ness to the Spey on the E, to Bonar-Bridge on the N,
and from Fort William to Rhuestoer,— including the
islands of Skye, Raasay, Cana, — on the W. The number
of vessels in this district, with their tonnage, has been,
at various dates, as follows : —

Year. | No. of Vessels. Tonnage.

1831, . . .
1861, . . .
1867, . . .
1S75, . . .
1883, . . .

142
241
216
134
113

7,104
11,301
11.157
10,269
10,339

About half the vessels and nearly two-thirds of the

tonnage belong to Inverness itself.

The harbour lies within the mouth of the Ness, and
consists of two parts — the one at Thornbush, about 700
yards above the mouth of the river, where there is a
pier for large steamers ; and the other about 400 yards
further up, on the opposite side of the river, and in
direct communication with the railway station. It was
greatly improved in 1847, under an Act providing for
the enlargement of Thornbush pier, the deepening of
the river channel, the formation of a wet dock adjacent
to the timber bridge, and the construction of quays and
breastworks in the vicinity of the railway. The harbour
trustees are the provost, bailies, dean of guild, treasurer,
five members elected by shipowners, and five elected by
merchants in the town. The following table shows
the tonnage of vessels that entered from and to foreign
and colonial ports and coastwise with cargoes and bal-
last : —

Entered.

Cleared.

i

Year.

British.

Foreign.

Total.

British.

Foreign.

Total.

1858, .
1860, .
1867, .

1874, .
1882, .

178,781
153,041
246,627
308,548

8,509

9,304

9,916

10,070

102,704
187,290
162,345
256,543
318,618

167,824
134,737
243,763
305,862

6,698
7,076
8,206
9,083

89,331
174,522
141,813
251,969
314,945

The amount of customs in 1866 was £3571, in 1871
£3552, in 1874 £4264, and in ISSl £3958. The prin-
cipal imports are coal, pig-iron, timber, hemp, wines,
bacon, fish, boots, shoes, linen and woollen drapery, hard-
ware, china and glass ; and the principal exports are
grain, potatoes, wool, sailcloth, ropes, cast-iron, dairy
]>roduce, leather, and malt liquors. Till 1820 oatmeal
was imported to the extent of 10,000 bolls yearly; it
is now exported to nearly the same amount. About
90,000 tons of coal are ini])orted annually.

The piers at Kessock Ferry, f mile NW of Thorn-
bush pier, occupy ground that formerly belonged to Sir
William Fettes, and were constructed at his private
expense at a cost of about £10,000. There are exten-
sive wharfs at the Muirtowu basin of the Caledonian
Canal.

Seal of Inverness.

INVERNESS

Municipality, efc.— The old rulers of Inverness held
their authority under a sett fixed in 1676 and altered
in 1722 ; but the old royalty excluded many important
parts of the modern town — sometimes one side of a

street being within
and the other without
the boundary. This
caused so much trouble
that a special Act was
obtained in 1847, by
which the municipal
boundary was ex-
tended to the par-
liamentary boundary
as fixed in 1832 ; and
the modern town coun-
cil consists of a pro-
vost, 4 bailies, a dean
of guild, a treasurer,
and 14 councillors —
the toAVTi being, for
municipal purposes,
divided into three
wards. The corporation revenue in 1881-82 was £3897.
The powers of the police arc founded on the Act of 1847 ;
but the Lindsay Act, adopted in 1874, has now superseded
it in all matters with which the latter deals. The town
council acts as the police commission. The police force
consists of 14 men, and the superintendent has a salary
of £180. The funds for education and charity managed
by the council with the stock at their credit in 1882
are : — Jonathan Anderson's (£3350), Frederick Klein's
(£910), Dr Bell's (£7420), Robert Eraser's (£125),
Thomas Fraser's (£100), Baillie's (£200), Burnett's
(£100), Denoon's(£100), Gollan's (£92), Gibson's (£105),
Logan's (£212), Duff's (£1068), Davidson's (£273),
Smith's (£1757). The gas and water company was
established in 1826, and obtained enlarged powers in
1847 ; but Inverness was formerly very ill supplied with
water. In 1875, however, a bill was obtained empower-
ing the corporation to buy up the old company and
introduce water by gravitation from Loch Ashie, 7h,
miles SSW of the to\vn. The new waterworks — including
a reservoir of 7,000,000 gallons' capacity at Culduthel,
2 miles S of the town — were opened in the end of 1877,
and in 1878 a new telescopic gasometer, to contain
144,000 feet, was erected at a cost of £3515. The town
has a head post office, with money order, savings' bank,
and telegi'aph departments. Besides the head office of the
Caledonian Bank (established 1838, and suspended for
a short time during the crisis due to the failure of the
City of Glasgow Bank), there are branches of the Bank
of Scotland, and of the British Linen Comp-my, the Com-
mercial, the National, the Town and Covmty, the Union,
and the Royal Banks. There is also a branch of the
National Security Savings' Bank, and agencies of 42 insur-
ance companies, and a large number of excellent hotels.
The newspapers are the Whig Inverness Courier (1817),
published on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday ; the
Liberal Inverness Advertiser {\^i2), published on Friday ;
and the Conservative Northern Chronicle (1881), pub-
lished on Wednesday. The Celtic Magazine is published
monthly. There are three mason lodges — St Andrew's
Royal Arch Chapter (No. 115), St John's Kilwinning (No.
6), St Mary's Caledonian Operative (No. 339). Among
the miscellaneous institutions may be noticed the Inver-
ness Chess and Draughts Club, the Caledonian Club, the
Highland Club, the Amateur Dramatic Club, a branch of
the Bible Society, a Young Men's Christian Association,
a Young Men's Mutual Improvement Society, the In-
verness Scientific Society and Field Club, the Literary
Institute, the Choral Union, the Northern Counties
Institute for the Blind (in the old High School ; opened
in 1881), the Gaelic Society, the Curling Club, the
Bowling Club, the Northern Counties Cricket Club, the
North of Scotland Heritable Investment Company, the
Inverness British Workman Public House Company, a
Coal and Clothing Society, four friendly Societies, and
a Farmers' Society. Inverness has six batteries of artil-

INVERNESS-SHIRE

lery volunteers and four companies of rifle volunteers.
In connection with these the Highland Rifle Association,
established in 1861, holds a meeting at Inverness every
autumn. Sheriff small debt courts are held every Fri-
day ; Quarter Sessions meet on the first Tuesday of
March, May, and August, and on the last Tuesday of
October ; Justice of Peace small debt courts are held
every month, and for other business as required.

Inverness, with FoiTes, Fortrose, and Nairn, returns a
member to parliament (always a Liberal since 1837).
Parliamentary constituency (1883) 2298 ; municipal
constituency 2703, including 405 females. Valuation
(1875) £56,709, (1883) £83,641. Pop. (1831) 9663,
(1841) 11,592, (1851) 12,793, (1861) 12,509, (1871)
14,469, (1881) 17,365, of whom 4047 were Gaelic-
speaking, and 9019 were females. Houses (1881) 2519
inhabited, 82 vacant, 67 building.

See Burt's Letters from a Gentleman in the North of
ScotloMcl (Lond. 1754) ; Shaw's History of the Provi'/ice of
Moray (Ediub. 1775 ; 3d ed., Glasg., 1882); Leslie and
Grant's Survey of the Province of Moray (Aberdeen,
1798) ; ilaclean's Reminiscences of Inverness (Inv. 1842) ;
Taylor's Edward I. in the North of Scotland. (Elgin,
1858); the various editions of Anderson's Guide to the
Highlands; Eraser-Mackintosh's Antiquarian Notes
(Inv. 1865), and his Invernessiana (Inv. 1875).

Inverness Railway. See Highland Railway.

Inverness-shire, a gi'eat Highland county, extending
across Scotland from the E coast along the upper reaches
of the Moray Firth to the Atlantic on the W coast
beyond the Outer Hebrides. It used formerly to consist
of three detached portions, one of which was dovetailed
in between two portions of the upper district of Elgin-
shire ; but in 1870, by ' The Inverness and Elgin County
Boundaries Act,' a part of the united parishes of Crom-
dale and Inverallan, including the village of Grantown,
was transferred from Inverness to Elgin, and portions
of the parishes of Abernethy and Duthil from Elgin to
Inverness. The population of the former district was
(1861) 3377, and of the latter in the same year 2750, so
that Inverness lost slightly as regards population. The
other detached piece is a small portion, measuring about
1 by J mile, included in Nairnshire, in Strathnairn,
about i mile E of Culloden Muir. Five and a half
miles E of Foyers, on Loch Ness, Inverness includes a
detached portion of Nairnshire, measuring 7| miles long
by 5 wide at the widest part. The county is bounded
on the N by Ross-shire and the Moray Firth, on the E
by Nairnshire, Elginshire, Banfl"shire, and Aberdeen-
shire, on the S by Perthshire and Argyllshire, and
along the W by the Atlantic Ocean. The shape is very
irregular. The compact mainland portion of the county
may be said to extend from Ben Attow on the W to
the Cairngorm Mountains on the E, a distance as the
crow flies of 69 miles ; and from Beauly on the N to the
river Leven on the S, a distance of 57^ miles. From
this, between Loch Loyne and Glen Loy, a prolongation
passes westward, widening as it goes till it embraces the
whole chain of the Outer Hebrides except Lewis, and
looking on the map like the shattered remains of some
fucoid of highly irregular shape. From the W coast of
South Uist to Loch Loyne, measuring in a straight line,
is a distance of 92 miles ; and along the line of the
Outer Hebrides, from Harris to Barra Head, the distance
is 91 miles. Inverness is the largest county in Scot-
land, the total area being 4231-62 square miles or
2,708,237 acres, including 91,775 acres of foreshore and
water. Of this enormous total, however, only 129,810
■were in 1882 under crop, bare fallow, and grass, and
162,201 under planted wood ; all the rest being natural
wood, rough hill grazing, heath, peat, or stony waste.
And it is not therefore to be wondered at that the county
should be on the average the second least densely popu-
lated in the country, there being 22 persons to the square
mile, while Sutherland has only 12. There are 46 inha-
bited islands in the county, with a population of 35,523.
Of the total area 747,739 acres belong to the island, and
the rest to the mainland, portion ot the county.

Starting at the extreme NW corner at the head of

309

IITTEBNESS-SHIRE

Loeh Resort in Le%vis, the boundary line curves across
Lewis and Harris to the centre of Loch Seaforth, and
then, striking south-eastward across the Minch, takes in
the whole of Skye, and passes up the Inner Sound
between Raasay and the mainland, between Longa and
Croulin Mhor, through Kyle-Akin, along Loch Alsh,
and half-way up Kyle Rhea. There it quits the sea,
and strikes E by S along the watershed, between Loch
Duich and Glen Shiel on the N in Ross-shire, and Loch
Hourn and Glen Quoich to the S in Inverness-shire, for
a distance of about 22 mUes at an average height of
about 3000 feet above sea-level, to the eastern shoulder
of Aonachair Chrith (3342 feet), where it turns abruptly
S for a mile to the river Lo5aie, the course of which it
follows through the centre of upper Loch Loyne to lower
Loch Loyne (700). About h mile from the upper end
of Loch Loyne the line turns for 3 miles to the NW, and
then N across Loch Clunie (606 feet), and in an irregular
line up to the high ground, where it again takes an
irregular line south-westward, following the watershed
by Sgurr nan Conbhairean (3632), Garbh Leac (3673),
Ciste Dhubh (3218), Cam Fuaralach (3241), and Sgurr a'
Bhealaich Dheirg (3378), all at the upper ends of Glen
Moriston and Glen Affrick, and so to Ben Attow (3383).
Here it turns to the north-eastward by Sgurr nan Ceath-
reamhnan (3771 feet) and Mam Soul (3877), beyond which
it quits the watershed, and, crossing a stream flowing
into Loch Moyley, passes on to Loch Monar about a mile
from the W end of the loch. From this it takes an
irregular Line eastward along the high ground between
Strathfarrer and Glen Orrin till it reaches the Highland
railway midway between Beauly and Muir of Ord
stations. From this it sends a pointed projection north-
ward to Muir of Ord station, where it crosses the railway
and curves back to the estuary of the river Beauly, 2
miles below the town. The boundary is then the
Beauly Firth, the Firth of Inverness, and the Moray
Firth, to Delnies, 4 miles E of Fort George. Here it
strikes southward in an excessively irregular line to
Culloden Muir, and then irregularly by artificial lines
south-eastward to the river Dulnain at Muckrach ; passes
along the Dulnain to the Spey, down the latter river for
about 8 miles, and then SE to AUt Mor Burn, up which
it keeps to the source ; and then strikes across to the
"Water of Ailnack about 3J miles from its mouth. It
proceeds up this burn to a height of 2059 feet, and then
strikes SW by Caiplich (3574), and along the whole
watershed of the Cairngorms, the principal summits
being Cairngorm (4084) and Braeriach (4248). About
midway between Cairngorm and Braeriach the boun-
daries of Banff, Inverness, and Aberdeen all meet.
About a mile beyond Braeriach, and just above the
main source of the Dee, the line takes a southerly direc-
tion to Cairn Ealar (3276 feet), where the boundaries of
Aberdeen, Inverness, and Perth meet, following all the
way the watershed between the burns that flow down
into the Dee, and those that pass by Glen Feshie to the
Spey. From the mountain just named the line takes a
very irregular westerly direction along the watershed
between the burns on the S in Perthshire flowing by
Glen Tilt and Glen Garry to the Tay, and those flowing
to the N by Glen Tromie and Glen Truim to the Spey,
until it reaches Loch Ericht (1153 feet), near the centre
of the SE bank. The principal summits along this line
are Carn na Caim (3087 feet), the Boar of Badenoch
(2432), the Athole Sow (3175), and Beinn Udlaman
(3306). After turning southward along the centre of
Loch Ericht for 4f miles, it jiasses up the bum of Uisge
Aulder to the top of Beinn Chumhann (2962 feet), and
then along the watershed between the burns that flow to
Loch Rannoch and those that flow to Loch Treig (784),
until it reaches the E end of the basin of the Leven.
The highest summits here are Sgor Gaibhre (3128 feet)
and Carn Dearg (3084). From the top of the basin of the
Leven the line keeps westward along the valley and
down the course of the river to Loch Leven, and then
NE along lower Loch Eil, and along the course of the
river Lochy to a point midway between Loch Eil and
Loch Loch v, * mile S of the Glen Loy Burn. Here, striking
310"

INVEBNESS-SHIRE

in an irregular westerly line, it crosses from side to side
of Glen Loy, until near the source of the Glen Mallie
Burn it again takes to the watershed, which it follows
till it descends to the river Callop, f mile above Loch
Shiel. The highest summits are Stob a' Ghrianain (2420
feet) Coille Mhor (2071), Meall a'Phubuill (2535), Gulvain
(North, 3224 ; South, 3148), Streap (2988), and Beinn
nan Tom (2603). Passing down Loch Shiel, the line
includes the island of Eigg, but excludes Muck, Rum,
and Canna, and then takes in the whole of the Outer
Hebrides (including St Kilda), all the way N till it
reaches Loch Resort once more. The island districts
are treated under the articles Hebrides and Skye, and
what follows is chiefly confined to the mainland part of
the county.

Dish-ids and Surface. — There are throughout the
county a large number of districts with separate names.
The Great Glen of Alban, passing in a NE and SW
direction from the Moray Firth at Inverness, by the river
Ness, Loch Ness, the river Oich, Loch Oich (105 feet),
Loch Lochy (93), and the river Lochy to Loch Eil, forms
a great natural division between the eastern and western
divisions of the county. Taking the region to the W
of this, and starting from the N, there are the three
parallel Glens of Strathfarrer, Cannich, and Strath-
aff"ric, which, uniting and widening at the lower end,
give place to Strath Glass along the upper waters of the
river Beauly. The district occupying the high ground
between the river Beauly and the river Ness is known
as The Aird, beyond which, along towards the lower
part of Glen Urquhart, is Caiplich. To the E of Strath-
afi"ric is Glen Urquhart, which opens at its lower end on
the Great Glen about 7 miles from the NE end, and
farther S is the larger and more important Glen Mor-
iston, opening on Loch Ness about 5^ miles from
its SW end. Farther S still, and passing due westward
from Loch Oich, is the long narrow Glen Garry, to the
S of which, and parallel with it, is the hollow occupied
by Loch Arkaig, at the commencement of the Locheil
country. This hollow is continued westward by the
smaller Glen Pean and Glen Dessary. To the W, along
the Sound of Sleat are : — Glenelg, between Glenelg Bay
and Loch Hourn ; Knoydart, between Loch Hourn and
Loch Nevis ; Morar, between Loch Nevis and Loch
Morar ; Arasaig, between Loch Morar and Loch Ailort ;
and Moidart, between Loch Ailort and Loch Shiel. The
whole of this region forms the wildest and roughest part
of Inverness-shire.

While the valleys and ridges to the W of the Great
Glen have an E and W direction, those to the E of that
line mostly run from NE to SW. Extending along the
eastern shore of Loch Ness is the district known as
Strath Errick — a tableland about 400 feet above sea-
level. At the SW end of Loch Ness is Glen Tarfi" ; while
at the NE end, along Dochfour, is Strath Dores. Across
the high ground E of this is Strathnaim, along the
ujiper w'aters of the river of the same name. This is
followed by Strathdearn along the upper waters of the
Findhorn, and this, again, by the upper portion of
Strathspey, while to the E of the Spey, on the borders
of the county, beyond the Braes of Abemethy, is the
wild district along the western side of the Cairngorms.
Along the north-eastern border of the county, between
the Nairn and the Findhorn, is Moy. Above Kingussie
the valley of the upper Spey runs more nearly from W
to E, and from it the smaller glens of Markic (N) and
Mashie (S) branch. The high ground W of Glen Mashie
between that and the Pattack, which flows into Loch
Laggan, is the watershed between the Atlantic and the
German Ocean. To the S of the Spey, and including
Glen Spean, Glen Roy, Glen Treig, Glen Nevis, and
some smaller glens, is the great district of Lochaber, To
the SE of the Spey, and extending from the Braes of
Abernethy on the N to the head of Glen Spean, and
lying along the borders of the counties of Perth and
Aberdeen, is the other great district— Badenoch— which
includes the Glens of Feshie, Tromie, Truim, and Calder,
as well as most of the basin of Loch Laggan and the
north-eastern part of the basin of Loch Ericht.

INVERNESS-SHIRE

Inverness is the most mountainous county in Scot-
land, and has the most rugged and uneven surface. In
the immediate neighbourhood of the town of Inverness
and along the shore of the Beauly Firth there is a flat
strip of no great extent, and from this there rises a
series of uplands which pass into lofty hills in all
directions in the interior and on the borders of the
comity, till finally, near the south-western extremity of
the county at Ben Nevis (4406 feet), the highest point
of Great Britain is reached. The range of heights to
the N of Strathfarrer attains a height of from 1500 to 1800
feet, and the same height is reached between Sti'ath-
farrer and Glen Caunicli. Those between Glen Cannich
and Strathaifric rise to the westward to a still greater
height until they terminate at Mam Soul and the lofty
summits about Ben Attow. From Ben Dubh or Ciste
Dubh (already mentioned), a line of heights runs east-
ward to the shore of Loch Ness between Strathaifric and
Glen Urquhart on the N, and Glen Moriston on the S,
and reach an average height of over 2000 feet, the prin-
cipal summits from W to E being Sgurr nan Ceathram-
han (3614 feet), Tigh Mor (3222), Aonach Shasuinn
(2901), Carn a Ghoire Chruaidh (2830), Carn a Choire
Leith (2118), and Mealfourvonie (3060) close to Loch
Ness. Between Glen Moriston and Glen Garry the
heights are about 2000 feet, but along the boundary
line W of the source of the river Loyne they rise to over
3000, the principal being Aonachair Chrith (3342),
Sgurr an Lochain (3282), Creag nan Damh (3012), and
The Saddle (3317). Between Glen Garry and Loch
Arkaig the majority of the heights are over 2000 feet,
and a few approach or are over 3000. The principal sum-
mits are Sgor Choinich (2450 feet), Geal Charn (2636),
Meall Coire nan Saobhaidh (2695), Beinn Tee (2956), Sron
a Coire Ghairbh (3066), Meall Coire Lochain (2971), and
Glas Bheinn (2398). To the S of Loch Arkaig are the
heights on the boundary between the Lochy and Loch
Shiel already mentioned, and on the E above the Lochy
the great mass of Beinn Bhan with a double summit
(West, 2522 ; East, 2613). The district to the W of this,
intersected by the sea-lochs on the Sound of Sleat
between Glenelg and JMoidart, is very rugged, a consider-
able number of the hills approaching 3000 feet, and at
Gleourach (3395), Sgurr a' Mhoraire (3365), Scour
Gairoch (3015), Sgor Mhor (3290), Sgorna Ciche (3410),
Sgor nan Coireachan (3125),* Sgor Choileam (3164),
and elsewhere surpassing that height. Near the south-
western extremity of the county is Ben Nevis (4406 feet),
with the shoulders known as Carn Dearg, one (3961)
to the NW of the summit, and the other (3348) to the
SW, while beyond the hollow occupied by the tarn is
Meall an t'Suidhe (2322). To the S beyond Glen Nevis
a rough sea of hills passes away to the boundary, the
principal being MuUach nan Coirean (3077 feet), Stob
Ban (3274), Sgor a' Mhaim (3601), Am Bodach (3382),
Binnein Mor (3700), and Binnein Beag (3083) on the S
side of Glen Nevis ; while E of this are Glas Bheinn
(2587), Beinn Bhreac (2863), and Leim Uilleim (2971).
To the N of Ben Nevis the ground falls at first rapidly, and
then more slowly towards Glen Spean, while to the east-
ward and north-eastward the long line of the Grampians
begins with Aonach Mor (3999 feet), and Aonach Beag
(4060), which are mere offshoots from the great Ben, the
ground between sinking only to 2915 feet. Continuing
north-eastward the principal summits of those that rise
to a height of over 3000 feet are Stob Coire an Easain
(3545), Stob Ban (3217), and a nameless summit to the
W (3750) ; Stob Choire an Easain Mhor (3658), imme-
diately to the W of Loch Treig; Cnoc Dearg (3433), E of
Loch Treig ; Beinn na Lap (3066), NW of Loch Ossian ;
Beinn Eibhinn (3611), Aonach Bea (3646), Beinn a'
Chlachair (3569), Creag Peathraich (3031), and Mullah
Coire an lubhair (3443), all in a line to the NE of Loch
Ossian ; one of the many Carn Deargs (3391) and the
huge mass of Ben Alder (3757), with the lower top of
Beinn Bheoil (3333), to the NW of Loch Ericht ; Geal-
charn (3005), E of Loch Ericht ; Stac Meall na Cuaich

* This is N of G16n Dessary. There is another Sgor nan
Coireachan (3133 feet) S of the head of Glen I'ean.

INVERNESS-SHIRE

(3000), between the upper parts of Glen Triiim and Glen
Tromie ; and Meall Tionail (3338), Meal Dubh-achadh
(3268), Carn Ban (3443), and Sgor an Dubh (3658), aU to
the E of the upper part of Glen Feshie. To the E of these
is Monadh Mor (3651 feet) on the border of the county
as the Grampians pass away into Aberdeenshire. To
the NE are the Cairngorms, the principal summits of
w'hich have been already given as occurring on the
borders of the county. In the part of Lochaber to the
NE of Ben Nevis beyond Glen Spean, and between Glen
Eoy and Loch Laggan, and extending N to the Spey,
are a large number of hills from 2000 to 3700 feet high,
the chief being Beinn a' Mheirlich (2994), the double-
topped Beinn a' Chaoruinn (South, 3437 ; North, 3422),
An Cearcallach (3250), Creag Meaghaidh (3700), and Cam
Liath (3298). To the W of this the ground rises rapidly
from the Spean, and a ridge runs north-eastward be-
tween Glen Gloy and Glen Roy parallel to Loch Lochy,
the hills gradually rising in height till at Corryarrick
a height of 2922 feet is reached between Loch Spey and
the head of Glen Tarff. From this the chain of heights
known as the Monadhliath Mountains stretch first E
along the N side of the upper course of the Spey and
then NE between the Spey and the Findhorn, till
within about 5 miles of the boundary between Inver-
ness-shire and Elginshire. The principal summits are
Garbh Bheinn (2920 feet), Geal Charn (3036) close to Glen
Markie, Carn Mairg (3087), A' Chailleach (3045), Cam
Sgulain (3015), and another of the same name farther
to the NE (2606). At the higher Carn Sgulain the
range is split by the river Duluan, down the sides of
which the heights pass at an average elevation of about
2500 feet. A branch of the Monadhliath Mountains
also passes NE between the upper waters of the Nairn
and Findhorn, the chief summits being Carn a' Choire
Ghlaise (2555 feet), Doire Meurach (2582), Carn na Saob-
haidhe (2657), Carn Odhar (2618), Beinn Bhuidhe (2329),
and Beinn Bhreac Mhor (2641). The district between
Mam Soul and Moidart along the watershed between
the E and W coasts is the wildest and roughest part of
the whole shire, and has in consequence got the name
of the 'rough bounds.' From many parts of it good
views may be obtained of the surrounding districts, and
particularly at the head of Glen Pean westward from
Loch Arkaig. Here Glen Dessary is seen to the N,
Loch Morar lies below, and away beyond is a wide
expanse of sea sprinkled with islands — Skye on the
right ; with Rum, Eigg, and Canna, and the Outer
Hebrides like a cloud on the distant horizon.

Rivers mid Lochs. — There are a considerable number
of rivers throughout the county, and the small streams
are simply innumerable. In the NW Glen Cannich is
drained by the Cannich and Strathafl'ric, in the upper
part by Grivie Water, and then by the river Glass.
These unite near the upper end of Strathglass, and at
Erchless Castle are joined by the Farrer from Strathfarrer,
and thereafter the river thus formed flows eastward and
enters the sea at the W end of the Beauly Firth. From
the Aird the burns of Moniack and Bunchrew flow N to
the Beauly Firth ; while the drainage of the whole of
the Great Glen NE of Loch Oich is carried off by the
river Ness, which enters the sea at the town of Inver-
ness. The only streams of any size that it receives are
the burn of Leys and the Allt Mor or Big Burn, which
flows from Loch Ashie. The drainage of the south-
western part of the Great Glen is carried ofl" by the river
Lochy, which enters the sea at Loch Eil. Passing first
along the W side. Glen Urquhart is drained by the
Enrick, and the Coiltie and Glen Moriston by the river
Moriston, which in its upper portion receives the Doe
(N) and the Loyne (S). These flow into Loch Ness ;
and along the banks of the loch there are also a number
of smaller burns, the principal being the burn of Abria-
chan, N of Glen Urquhart. On a small stream flo\\'ing
into the Coiltie are the picturesque falls of Divach.
Loch Oich and Loch Ness are connected by the river
Oich. Glen Garry is drained by the river Garry, which
flows into Loch Oich, and receives an immense number
of tributaries, the principal being the Kingie (S). Loch

311

INVEENESS-SHIBE

Lochy receives, all along, a number of small burns ;
while near the SW corner it is entered by the Arkaig
from Loch Arkaig, carrying oft" the drainage of the
■whole district lying in the hollow eastward of Glen
Dessary and Glen Pean. The river Lochy receives the
fair-sized stream that issues from Glen Loy close to the
county boundary. In the district between Glenelg and
Moidart there are numerous streams falling into the
various sea-lochs. On the E side of the Great Glen the
north-eastern part of Strath Errick is drained by the
Foyers and the streams E and Fechlin which flow into
it. The region between Corryarrick and the SW end
of Loch Ness has its drainage carried off" by the Doe and
TarfF, of which the former enters the loch about a mile
from, and the latter at the SW end, close to Fort
Augustus. The country immediately E of Loch Oich
is drained mainly by Calder Burn, which enters the
loch at the NE end ; while the district immediately E
of Loch Lochy is drained mainly by the stream that
issues from Glen Gloy, and enters the loch 2^ miles
from its SW end. Almost immediately after leaving
the loch, the Lochy receives the large tributary of the
Spean, which carries off the drainage of almost the
whole of Lochaber. Its principal tributaries are the
Roy, from Glen Roy on the N ; the Treig, from Loch
Treig ; the Gulbin, from Loch Ossian ; and the Pattack,
which flows into Loch Laggan. Round Glen Gloy,
Glen Roy, and Glen Spean are the fine terraces marking
old lake margins, and so well known under the name
of ' parallel roads. ' The drainage of the NE flanks of
Ben Nevis also passes to the Spean ; but that of the N
and NW is carried off" by the river Lundy, which enters
the Lochy about 2 miles from the mouth ; while that to
the S and SW is carried off by the Nevis, which enters
Loch Eil at Fort William. From Mamore comes the
Water of Kiachnish, which enters Loch Eil farther S.
Besides all these, a large number of burns flow directly
into the various lochs, but they are all of small size.

Excepting the basin of Loch Ericht — the rainfall of
which passes off to the Tummel — and the burns that
flow into Loch Laggan, the whole of Badenoch is drained
by the Spey and its tributaries, as are also the S and SE
sides of the Monadhliath Mountains, the Grampians
from Loch Ericht to the borders of Aberdeenshire, and
the NW side of the Cairngorms. The principal tribu-
taries from the N and NE are Markie Burn, the river
Calder, and the river Duluan, the latter being so large
as to have a sort of subsidiary basin midway between
the Spey and the Findhorn, and about 20 miles long.
The tributaries on the S and SW are Mashie Water, the
rivers Truim, Tromie, Feshie, Druie, and Nethy. The
drainage of the remaining part of the county between
the Monadhliath Mountains and Strath Errick is by
means of the rivers Nairn and Findhorn and their tribu-
taries, the chief of those joining the former river being
AUt Beag and the Craggie Burn, both from the SE ;
while joining the latter river are the Kyllachie Burn
and the Moy or Funtack Burn, both from the W.

There are within the county, speaking only of the
mainland part, ninety lochs of fair size, besides a very
large number of lochaus. The principal lochs only can
here be mentioned, and these are taken in connection
with the districts in which they lie. The figures give
the heights above sea-level, and for other information
reference may be made to the separate articles dealing
^vith them. In Strathfarrer, Loch a' Mhuilinn (418 feet)
and Loch Bunacharan (367) ; in Glen Cannich, Loch Mul-
lardoch (705); in Strathaftiic, Loch Beneveian (720) and
Loch Affrick (744) ; in Glen Unjuhart, Loch Meiklie
(372) on tlie Enrick, and Loch Aslaich (1310) on the
Coiltie ; in Glen Lloriston, the lower half of Loch Clunie
(606) ; along Glen Garry, Loch Lundie (445), Loch Garry
(258), Loch Poulary (310), Loch Quoich (555), and Lochan
nam Breac (574). Loch Quoich receives the river
Quoich, and Loch Garry also receives some fair-sized
streams. In the Arkaig valley is Loch Arkaig (140 feet) ;
in the Great Glen, Loch Lochy (93), Loch Oich (105), Loch
Ness (50), and Loch Dochfour (50); in Strathdores,
Loch Ashie (716); in Sti-atherrisk, Loch Duntelchak
312

INVERNESS-SHIRE

(702), Loch Ruthven (700), Loch Farraline (650), Loch
Garth (618), Loch Killin (1057), Loch Kemp (545), Loch
Knockie (690), and Loch Tars' (956)— the latter not,
however, in Glen Tarft", but to the N of it. Between
the Nairn and Findhorn, 3J miles SW of the boundary
with Nairnshire, is Loch Moy, draining into the Find-
horn. On the Spey are Loch Inch (721 feet) and Loch
Spey (1142) ; while in the basin drained by this river and
by its tributaries are Loch Garten (726), Loch Phitiulais
(674), Loch Moriich (1046), Loch Alvie (685), Loch
an Eileiu (840), Loch Eunach (1700), Loch an t'Seilich
(1400), Loch Bhradain (1460), half of Lochan Duin(1680),
the rest being in Perthshire, Loch na Cuaich (1298),
Loch Coultrie (1150), Loch Crunachan (890), and Loch
Dubh (2200). On the SE border of the county is part
of Loch Ericht (1153 feet); in the valley drained by the
Spean, Loch Laggan (819), Lochan na h-Earba (1140),
Loch a' Bhealaicli Shleamhuinn (2116), Loch Pattack
(1430), Loch a' Bhealaich Bheithe, between Ben Alder
and Ben Bheoil (2347), Loch Gulbin (1150), Loch Ossian
(1269), and Loch Treig (784) ; on Ben Nevis, Lochan
Meall an t'Suidhe (1820) ; to the S of Glen Nevis, Lochan
Lunn Da Bhra (511), Loch Eilde Beag (1180), and Loch
Eilde Mor (1120). The whole of the principal rivers
and lakes abound with fish of various kinds, and furnish
capital sport.

As might be expected, the scenery in such a county
is very varied. The greater part of the county shows
little but a sea of hills, with bare brown undulating
expanses of moor between, and intersected by hollows
occupied by streams or lochs, the whole being in most
places very dull and dismal except when the heather is
in bloom. Many of the hollows are, however, well
wooded, and have fertile hairghs along the banks of the
rivers. This is particularly the case along the line of
the Great Glen, in Glen Moriston, in Glen Urquhart,
in Strath Glass, in Moy, along part of Strathdearn, and
particularly in the valley of the Spey below its junction
with Glen Truim. There is also a good wooded district
about Loch Arkaig, on the ojjposite side of the county
at the Aird, and eastward of Inverness by CuUoden
towards Croy in Nairnshire ; while the flat country
along the margin of the Beauly Firth is well wooded
and fertile. Details of the glens, lochs, and rivers will
be found under the separate headings, as well as accounts
of the fine scenery at the falls of Divach, Foyers, Kil-
morack, and elsewhere.

Geology. — The geological history of the mainland
portion of Inverness-shire is widely difi'erent from that
of Skye and Raasay. These islands contain a grand
development of Tertiary volcanic rocks resting uncon-
formably on various members of the Secondary forma-
tions, to the description of which a separate article will
be devoted. The mainland portion of the county is
composed of metamorphic rocks, on which representa-
tives of the Old Red Sandstone rest unconformably.
Indeed, if we except a strip of ground stretching along
the banks of Loch Ness from Inverness, and a limited
tract in the Beauly basin, the remainder of the area is
occupied by stratified crystalline rocks and the granite
masses associated with them. According to the gene-
rally-accepted theory, these metamorphic rocks are
regarded as altered sedimentary deposits of Silurian age.
No detailed investigations have as yet been made with
the view of determining the order of succession of the
strata between Glenelg and the crest of the Grampians,
and hence at present only a general outline can be given
of the types of strata represented in the area, and some
of the larger folds. In the W part of the county, along
the shores of Loch Hourn, and on the serrated peaks
that overlook the fiord, the beds consist of finely-stratified
micaceous and quartzose flagstones, which are inclined
to the SE at comparatively low angles. In these beds are
found bands of gneiss and micaceous quartzose grits, but
the flagstones form the dominant members of the series.
This succession continues, with the same SE inclination,
as far as Loch Quoich, where a great synclinal fold
occurs, and the same beds reappear, with a NW inclina-
tion, for several miles. Beyond this point, as we

INVERNESS-SHIRE

INVERNESS-SHIRE

descend Glen Garry, the strata are repeated by a series
of undulations, till on approaching the Great Glen they
have a decidedly NAY dip. Grossing the Great Glen and
ascending the valley of the Spean, we find a succession
of quartzose flagstones -u-ith bands of mica schist, which
are overlaid by mica schists with limestones, the whole
series dipping towards the SE. From these data, as
well as from the occurrence of crystalline limestones in
the island of Lismore, Sir Roderick Murchison and Dr
Archibald Geikie inferred that the Great Glen coincided
with an anticlinal fold, which gi-adually increased towards
the SW, and brought to the surface the Silurian lime-
stones and overlying quartzose flagstones of Ross and
Sutherland. Above the Bridge of Spean the limestones
and mica schists are associated with hornblendic rocks,
and these are succeeded bj- a gi-eat development of sericite
schists, quartz schists, and ordinary mica schists. Fur-
ther to the E, along the crest of the Grampians at
Dalwhinnie, there is an anticlinal fold in gray micaceous
gneiss, schists, and quartzites, which imderlie the
crystalline limestone series of Perthshire. It is pro-
bable, therefore, that subsequent investigations may
prove that the latter are on the same hoiizon as the
limestones, mica schists, and hornblendic rocks of Glen
Spean.

There is one section in the county of special import-
ance, on account of the variety of minerals obtained from
the beds. It occurs in Glen Urquhart, not far from
Drumnadrochit, where the mica schists and gneiss are
associated with crystalline limestones and serpentine.
The following minerals have been obtained from this
locality by Professor Heddle : orthoclase, andesine,
biotite, edenite, hydrous anthophyllite, tremolite,
zoisite, kyanite, choudrodite, Wollastonite, sphene, and
garnet. Another celebrated mineralogical localitj' occurs
in the N of the county at Struy. There the minerals
are embedded in a pegmatite vein, which seems to have
participated in the foldings of the micaceous gneiss on
either side. The predominating mineral in the vein is
felspar of two very difl'erent tints, one displaying a
delicate pink tinge when the rock is freshly fractured,
and the other a blue shade. Notwithstanding this
difference in colour, the chemical analysis points to the
conclusion that the felspar is orthoclase. Associated
with the felspar are muscovite, tourmaline, garnets, and,
still more rarely, zircon ^^ith beautiful hexagonal crystals
of berjd. In the course of the excursions of the Inver-
ness Field Club, a blue mineral was found in considerable
abundance in the gneiss and granite between Inverness
and Abriachan, which on analj^sis proved to be a new
mineral, and which has since received the name of
Abriachanite. Reference ought also to be made to the
fine crystals of epidote occuri'ing in the granite on the
shores of Loch Ness near Dochfour.

Numerous granite masses are associated with the
stratified crystalline rocks, chiefly to the E of the
Caledonian Canal. There is one area of considerable
extent, however, to the W of the Great Glen, along tlie
shores of Loch Ness at Abriachan. A portion of the
granite mass forming the Ben Macdhui range is included
in this county, and also a fragment of the Rannoch area,
while small bosses occur to the E of Loch Errocht. One
of the most interesting of these granite masses is that
which forms Ben Nevis, because it shows in a con-
spicuous manner those lithological variations peculiar
to this type of rock. The lower portion of the mountain
is composed of coarsely crystalline granite, with the
normal constituents, while the crest consists of grey and
pink porphyritic felsite.

The representatives of the Old Red Sandstone form a
continuous belt along the E side of the Great Glen, from
CuUoden Moor to near the Falls of Foyers ; while beyond
Fort Augustus they are traceable along the E shore of
Loch Oich. Again, on the W side they extend from
Clachnaharry by Craig Phadrick to near the mouth of
Loch Ness, reappearing on both sides of Glen Urquhart,
and capping Mealfourvonie. At the base of the series
the beds consist of coarse breccias and conglomerate,
resting unconformably on the crystalline rocks, and
57

passing upwards into chocolate sandstones and flags, with
the well-known band of nodular limestone containing
ichthyolites. The basal beds are admirably displayed
on Mealfourvonie, on the hills between Inverfarigaig and
Loch Duntelchaig, and also in the river Nairn near
Daviot. The blocks in the conglomerates and breccias
are composed of the underlying gneiss, mica schists, and
quartzites, along with fragments of granite and por-
phjTitic felsite. Indeed, so numerous are the granite
blocks in the breccias near Inverfarigaig, that the infer-
ence seems obvious that the contiguous granite mass is
older than the Old Red Sandstone of the Great Glen,
Many of the breccias and conglomerates show manifest
proofs of alteration, evidently resulting from the repeated
earth movements along the Great Glen. The well-known
fish bed is visible in the Big Burn near Loch Ashie,
and also in the Nairn section at Nairn-side, where it
has yielded to Mr "Wallace of Inverness remains of
DiptcTus. This horizon is succeeded by a considerable
development of purple flags, with occasional bands of
grit containing fish scales. At various horizons the flags
are fossiliferous ; but at Hillhead quarry, S of Dalcross
station, fine plates of Asterolepis Asmvssii have been
obtained.

In the Beauly basin there is also a considerable thick-
ness of the basal conglomerates and breccias, which give
rise to the picturesque scenery at the Falls of Kilmorack.
They are traceable S by BeUadrum House, in the direc-
tion of Abriachan.

The Great Glen is perhaps the most conspicuous
example in Scotland of the coincidence of a valley with
a great fracture in the earth's crust. "SAHiether this
fracture may be of pre-Old-Red-sandstone age, it is
impossible to say in the present state of our knowledge.
But from the distribution of the conglomerates and
breccias along the Great Glen, it is evident that a hollow
at least must have existed along that line as far back as
the beginning of Old Red Sandstone times. The high
inclination of the conglomerates and sandstones, as well
as the proofs of dislocation of the strata, clearly show
that they are traversed by a fault. Still further to the
NE, at Eathie, Port-an-Righ, and Cadh-an-Righ, on the
"W shore of the Moray Firth, patches of oolitic strata
have been thrown against the cliJfs of Old Red Sandstone
by a fault, the downthrow being to the SE. The direc-
tion of this fault coincides with the trend of the fracture
traversing the Great Glen ; and if the one be a continua-
tion of the other, it would show that there must have
been displacement of the strata along that line at a
period later than the upper oolite. It is probable, how-
ever, as has been suggested by Dr Archibald Geikie, that
this fracture may be of ancient date, and that it has
been attected by subterranean movements at different
geological periods.

Everywhere throughout the county there are manifest
proofs of intense glaciation. The splendid rochcs
inoutminees and striated surfaces, the gentle slopes of
boulder claj', the innumerable moraine heaps, all point
to prolonged glacial action in these Highland valleys.
The Great Glen naturally formed the chief outlet for the
ice w"hich streamed from the valleys on either side of it ;
but during the maximum glaciation the ice-flow did not
always coincide with the lines of drainage in these tri-
butary valleys. Indeed in some cases the ice actually
ascended the valleys, as in the case of Glen Roy, de-
scribed by Mr Jamieson. The occurrence of Old Red
Sandstone fragments at considerable elevations in the
NE of Inverness-shire, and in the adjoining county of
Nairn, to which they have been carried by ancient
glaciers, indicates that the ice must have been so thick
as to override the hill-tops at the mouth of the Great
Glen. But in addition to these interesting facts bearing
on the great extension of the ice, there is conclusive
proof of the existence of milder periods, when the ice-
sheet disappeared from the surface of the country. In
the heart of the boulder clay are found beds of sand,
gravel, and claj-, of considerable thickness, some of
which are marine and others probably of fresh-water
origin. These are best developed in the adjacent county

313

INVERNESS-SHIEE

INVERNESS-SHIRE

of Nairn, where tliej'^ have yielded marine shells ; and a
description of them will l)e given in connection with the
geology of that county.

Of the various superficial deposits connected with the
glacial period in Scotland perhaps none has given rise to
greater controversy than the Parallel Roads of Lochaber.
Their remarkable features, and the interesting questions
which they present for solution, have excited the atten-
tion of geologists from the beginning of the century.
They are seen to best advantage in Glen Roy, a tributary
of tlie Spean, to the S of wliich lies the mass of high
ground round Ben Nevis. In Glen Roy there are three
terraces which are traceable to the head of the valley ;
their heights above the sea-level being 1148, 1067, and
855 feet respectively. The lowest of these is prolonged
into Glen Spean follo\\-ing the windings of that valley
to the watershed separating it from one of the tributaries
of the Spey. In Glen Gloy draining into Loch Lochy,
the highest of these terraces occurs at a height of 1172
feet, while a second slielf in the same valley stands at
964 feet. The materials of which the terraces are com-
posed consist for the most part of angular and sub-
angular stones derived from the adjacent hill slopes
which have not been subjected to much aqueous action.
Indeed a minute examination of the blocks shows con-
clusirsly that they are of local origin, resembling the
detritus which might be dislodged "by ordinary atmo-
spheric agencies of Avaste. The terraces vary in breadth
from 40 to 70 feet, and tliey likewise have a gentle slope
towards the middle of the valley. Throughout their
course they remain perfectly horizontal, and on opposite
sides of the valleys the corresponding terraces are pre-
cisely on the same level. An important feature con-
nectsd with them which helps to throw light on the
question of their origin, is the fact that each of the chief
terraces nearly coincides in level with a col or water
13arting between two valleys. The highest of the
parallel roads in Glen Roy is about the level of the col
sejjarating that valley from the head waters of the Spey,
the second terrace is on the level of the Glen Glaster col,
while the lowest of the three coincides in height with
the pass at the head of the Spean.

Various ingenious theories have been advanced to
account for their origin, but only one of these has met
with general acceptance. It ascribes their origin to the
action of glacier lakes during the glacial period. This
theory, which was first suggested by Agassiz and sup-
ported by a strong body o"f evidence obtained by Mr
Jamieson in 1863, and also by the recent researches of
Mr Jolly, seems to give the most satisfactory explanation
of the phenomena. According to this theory the ice
which streamed into the Spean valley from the glens
round Ben Nevis partly fiowed E by Glen Laggan and
pnrtly down the Spean into the Great Glen. So power-
ful was this vast accumulation of ice that it actually
ascended the tributary valley of the Roy. As the
climatic conditions became less severe and the ice
retreated to the mouth of Glen Roy, a lake was formed
the surface level of which was determined by the
height of the col at the head of the valley. AVhen the
water stood at this level it was prevented from escaping
by the Glen Glaster col owing to the accumulation of
ice which radiated from the Loch Treig valley. As the
ice retreated still farther the waters fell to the level of
the Glen Glaster col when the second terrace was formed,
and another stage in the retirement of the glaciers is
indicated by the lowest shelf which, as already indicated,
is continued throughout Glen Spean and Glen Roy ; the
surplus water escaping by the Jluckal Pass. In each
case the huge barrier of ice held back the sheet of water
for a considerable period, and it was during these
intervals that the materials which were dislodged from
the hill-slopes were arrested by the surface of the lake
and were arranged in the form of a narrow shelving
terrace.

Throughout the county there are magnificent examples

of moraines deposited by the later glaciers either in the

form of conical mounds or sinuous ridges running down

the valleys or obliquely across them. The materials

3U

vary in character from loose sandy matter with sub-
augular stones, some of which are striated, to coarse
gi'avel. Special reference ought to be made to the
remarkable ridges of Torvean and Tomnahurich at the
mouth of the Great Glen near Inverness, Miiich may
possibly be of morainic origin. The former runs
obliquely across the valley to the Asylum Lodge, where
it bifurcates, one branch extending to Dunain House,
while the other skirts the Asylum road, and disappears
at a height of about 350 feet. The branch leading to
Dunain House stands on the 100-feet terrace, while the
terminal portion is on the level of the 30-feet beach.
The ridge of Tomnahurich, which is isolated from that
of Torvean, rises from the level of the 30-feet beach
to a height of about 200 feet above the sea. Occa-
sionally the materials composing these ridges are
rudely stratified, but more frequently they display
no such arrangement, being merely a rude assortment
of shingle or coarse gravel. The stones are such as
might have been derived from the Old Red Sandstone
areas, and from the metamorphic and igneous rocks of
the district.

The 100-feet terrace forms a belt of richly cultivated
ground, stretching from Inverness along the slopes of
Culloden Moor by Fort George station to the county
boundarJ^ The deposits, which consist of sand, gravel,
and stratified clays, laid down on stitf sandy boulder
clay, have been much denuded, and hence the surface of
the ancient sea-beach is somewhat irregular. Near
Fort George, on the bluff clitf overlooking the 25-feet
terrace, a section of dark blue clay is exposed, which
yielded to Mr Jamieson remains of marine shells. This
clay or fine silt is well-nigh free from stones, and is
extremely tough, resembling in general character the
late glacial claj^s of the same age in the basin of the
Forth. The forms commonly met with are Astarte
sulcata, A. clliptica, Tellina calcarea, Lcda iKrnula,
and from their appearance, as well as their position, it
would seem as if they had lived and died in the deposit
in which they are now found. Again, at Fort "William
marine shells have been obtained in ancient sea-beaches.
Some of the forms are noAV confined to Arctic seas, while
others are still common to the shores of Britain. The
25-feet terrace is very well marked in the neighbour-
hood of Inverness, and is traceable along the S shore of
the Firth to Fort George, where it is covered by an
extensive series of sand dunes.

Soils and Agriculture. — The soils vary very greatly,
from much of the worst to a little of the best in Scot-
land. Along the river Beauly and the upper part of the
Beauly Firth there is a considerable amount of clay,
unprofitably rich in some cases, and producing the same
crops as similar soils farther to the S ; and the wheat
and other kinds of grain reach maturity early. Strath-
glass and Strathfarar are stony, but have some good
haugh and meadow soil. Along the Aird there is good
black loam towards the border of the Firth, while towards
the hills the soil is lighter but good. In both Glen
Urrpihart and Glen Moriston the soil is good, though
in places very stony. The fringes and haughs of culti-
vated or cultivable land about the other glens to the
W are small but of fair quality, and the same may be
said of the minor districts to the E and of almost the
whole of Lochaber and Badenoch. In Stratlulores and
the flat district along the Inner Moray Firth towards
Fort George the land is mostly good and very productive
loam, though parts of the latter are light and sandy,
and a part about Fort George is mossy. In Strathnairn
there are a few patches of liaugh and some light sandy
gravel, and the same holds good of Strathdearn. Along
Strathspey there is a good deal of fertile loam, generally
in the Inverness-shire part, tending to lightness, and
this in the districts below Badenoch produces good crops
with anything like a fair season, though the frosts are
unseasonable. In the part of Strathsj)ey in Badenoch
and Laggan, where the height is from 900 to 1400 feet,
there is no lack of good loam, but the climate is very
unfavourable, the stocks of cut grain being sometimes
not got in till snow has begun to fall, while Irosts remain

INVERNESS-SHIRE

late in the season and commence early. The inhabitants
of the rest of the county are not dependent on the culti-
vation of the soil.

Up till about 1S20 farming operations in Inverness-
shire were in a very backward state, and though a great
stimulus was given to efforts for improvement by the
new roads opened about IS 20, and by the Caledonian
Canal in 1822, it took a long time for it to tell. Be-
tween 1S54 and the present time the area under crop
of all kinds has increased more than 100 per cent. In
1845 there seem to have been in the whole county about
40,000 acres under crop of all kinds, including grass
and hay in rotation. By 1855 this had grown onlj- to
44,242 acres, while in 1866 there were 77,170, in 1876,
86,652, and in 1882, 89,501. The principal increase has
taken place in the parishes of Ardersier, Croy, Daviot,
and Dores ; but the improvements in Strathspey and
elsewhere are also considerable. Still, however, the per-
centage (4'6) of cultivated area is higher only than that
of Sutherland (2-4), that for all Scotland being 24-2,
and for Fife 74 '8. The areas under the various crops
are given in the following tables : —

Grain- Cr.ors.— Act.e

s.

Year. 1 Wheat. 1 Barley or Bare.

Oats.

Total.

1854, . . ! 1684
1870, . . 1467
1877, . . 515

18S2, . . ! 38

3674 13,674
6734 30,028
7308 30,947
8731 30,908

19,032
33,229
38,770
39,677

Grass, Root Crofs, etc. — Acres.

■o-„«- i Hay, Grass, and m,, . „ r>„*.„j.

Y«^'- Permauent Pasture. Tum'PS- Potatoes.

1354,
1870,
1877,
1882,

5,135

3524

55,922

30,275

8340

62,269

11,386

8091

68,423

11,495

8245

while there are about 900 acres amiually under beans,
rye, vetches, fallow, etc. Between 1867 and 1882 the
permanent pasture never broken up has increased from
32,009 acres to 40,309. In the best agiicultural part of
the count}- — in the parishes of Ardersier, Dores, Kirkhill,
Kilmorack, Kiltarlity, and Petty — the harvest is from a
week to ten days later than in the Lothians ; but in
the other parts of the county the time is very variable.
The farms are worked mostly on the five-shift rotation,
while on the heavy clays at Beauly the four and six
shift systems are mostly adopted. The average yield of
wheat is 28 to 35 bushels, barley 35 bushels, oats 35 to
45 bushels, and tui-nips from 14 to 30 tons per acre.
The very great decrease in the area under wheat is note-
worthy, as, Elgin excepted, Inverness used to be the
greatest wheat-growing county N of Kincardine. It is
probably due to the effect of recent wet seasons on the
very heavy clay land on which it is grown.

The agricultural live stock in the county is shown in
the following table : —

Tear.

Cattle.

HorsesL

Sheep.

Pigs. Total.

1854, . .
1870, . .
1876, , .

1882, . .

21,809
45.901
53,242
51,855

3038
7998
9D08
8949

542,028
737,166
724,518
703,954

1529 563,404
3404 794,469
4127 790,795
3531 768,289

The cattle belong to the Highland, cross, shorthorn,
poUed, and Ayrshire breeds, though the last is not very
numerous, nor to be found in many localities except
about the tovra of Inverness, where they are kept for
dairy purposes. There was a very good herd of short-
horns at Hillhead at Ardersier, but it was broken up in
1860. There was one at Dochfour from 1870 till the
present year, but it was dispersed in ilay 1883 in conse-
quence of the death of the late ilr Evan Baillie of Doch-
four. A number of the best animals were purchased
for, and the Dochfour herd is to be re-established by, the

INVERNESS-SHIRE

present owner of the estate, Mr J. Evan Bruce Baillie.
Along Strathspey there are a number of polled animals,
but there are not very many either of this or the short-
horn breed in the county. Of the Highland breed —
the one natural to the count}- — there are more animals
in Inverness-shire than in any other county of Scotland,
and everywhere excellent examples of these cattle are
to be found. One of the principal herds is that at
Faiilie, 7 miles S of Inverness. Crosses are good in
a few places, but in most distiicts they are of a very
nondescript character, and stand sadly in want of im-
provement. There was a fine herd at Morayston, Petty,
which is now broken up ; but good specimens are to be
found about Beauly and in Strathspey. There are
Clj-desdale horses in the lowland districts, but the
horses get lighter on the high grounds. For instance,
in Badenoch they are smaller than in Strathspey, in
Laggan smaller than in Badenoch, and in Lochaber
smaller still. Small Highland ponies are ver}- numerous.
The principal breeds of sheep are the Cheviot and the
blackfaced, of which there are about equal numbers.
The finest Cheviots are generally to be found about
Strathglass ; and on the Braes of Lochaber, Laggan, and
Badenoch the largest and finest fiocks of blackfaced
sheep in the county, and probably in the Highlands.
In the lower district a few Leicesters and half-breds are
kept. Hoggs are mostly sold at iluir of Ord, wethers
at Falkirk Trj-st, and ewes and lambs at the great sheep
and wool fair held annually at Inverness. The capital
invested in sheep in the county amounts to over a
million, and the sale of surplus stock brings in about
£400,000 a year. The best land rents at from 40s. to
45s., the medium at 2os. , and the poor at from 10s.
to 15s. per acre. The rents of sheep farms are about
3s. 6d. to 4s. per head for blackfaced, and os. to 6s. for
Che\aots. About 90 per cent, of the holdings are imder
50 acres, and the bulk of the remainder are from 50 to
250 acres, the arable farms of larger size being very few.
Some of the sheep grazings are, of course, of large extent.
In 1875 there were 5665 holdings of 50 acres or less, 239
of from 50 to 100, 235 of from 100 to 300, and 32 of
more than 300.

The area of the county, inclusive of the islands, may
be estimated as follows : — Arable land under crops and
permanent pasture, 129,810 acres ; lakes and rivers,
124,240 ; wood.s, including all the natural wood, 250,000;
deer forests, 350,000 ; which leaves the very large re-
mainder of 1,900,000, of which about 1,000,000 provide
feeding for sheep, while 900,000 are heath or waste, and
of no value except for grouse moors, and some parts not
even for that, so inaccessible or barren are they. The
whole district under heath amounts probably to about
1,350,000 acres or two-thirds of the entire county. The
higher mountains are not covered with heath to the
summit, nor are the mountains in all the districts
equally bare. The hills of Lochaber have a good mixed
pasture of grass and heath. Glennevis is of this descrip-
tion, though it skirts the highest mountain in Britain.
The hills of Arasaig, Glen Pean, Glen Quoich, and Glen
Ptoy — those on both sides of Loch Lochy, particularly
at Lowbridge, where the hills in general are as green as
a meadow — those on the sides of Loch Oich up to the
NE end — those in Glenelg, at the head of Strathglass —
and on the braes of Badenoch, are all green, and yield
plentiful pasture. Along the ' rough bounds ' on the
other hand, as well as inStrath Errick and at the head
of Strathnairn and Strathdeam, hardly a green spot is
to be seen except along the streams. There is a con-
siderable amount of peat moss lying on gravel, rock, or
clay, and furuishing abundant supplies of fuel. It is
curious that none of these mosses, except a patch at
Corpach and one or two other places, lie in the bottom
of valleys, but on land above their general level. The
deer forests are numerous and extensive. The principal
are Glenatfric Forest at the top of Strathaffric, Guisachan
Forest along the S side of Strathaffric, Invermoristoa
Forest X of the entrance to Glen Moriston, Portclair
Forest S of the same entrance, Glenquoich Forest on the
N side of Glen Garry E of Glen Quoich, Glengarry Forest

3i6

INVERNESS-SHIRE

between Loch Garry and Loch Lochy, Lochiel Forest on
the S side of Loch Arkaig, Mamore Forest S of Gleu-
nevis, Ben AUIer Forest between Loch Laggan and Loch
Ericht, the Forest of Drumochter E from Loch Ericht,
Gaick Forest across the upper part of Glen Tromie, Glen
Feshie Forest in the upper part of Glen Fesliie, and Glen-
more Forest along the base of the Cairngorms. The
game in the high woodlands and moors is red deer, roe
deer, hares, black game, grouse, ptarmigan, and part-
ridges. Foxes and otters are by no means uncommon,
while the last Scottish wolf is said to liave been killed
in the Lochiel country in 16S0 by Sir Ewau Cameron,
but this is doubtful, as many districts in Scotland seem
to have possessed a veritable last wolf. At Abernethy
and Rothiemurchus in Strathspey there are magnificent
forests in which almost the whole wood is of natural
growth. They were at one time much larger, but vast
quantities of wood were cut down in the beginning of
the present century. There are 8 proprietors holding
each 100,000 acres and upwards, 11 between 50,000
and 100,000, 12 between 20,000 and 50,000, and 58
between 1000 and 20,000. The principal estates, most
of M-hich are separately noticed, are Abertarlf, Airds,
Aldourie, Ardmore, Ardverikie, Balmacaan, Balmain,
Balranald, Belladrum, Belleville, Bunch rew. Castle
Stewart, Chisholm, Cluny, Congash, CuUodeu, Daviot,
Dochfour, Farr, Fassifern, Fingask, Foyers, Glenmazeran,
Glenmoriston, Glentruim, Golanfield, Gortuleg, Inver-
eshie, Invergarry, Inverie, Inverlochy, Invertromie,
Lakefield, Lentran, Leys, Lochiel, Lovat, Moy, Ness,
and Raigmore, exclusive of those in the islands noticed
under Heerides and Skye. The commerce is centred
at the town of Inverness, and has been noticed in our
account of that place, and manufacturing industries
there are practically none except a woollen manufactory
and a distillery in Skye, and another distillery at Glen-
nevis. The mainland fishery centre is at Fort AVilliam,
and is noticed in that article. The island fisheries are
noticed in the articles Hebrides and Skye. A large pro-
portion of the inhabitants of Inverness and its neigh-
bourhood speak English, but in other districts Gaelic is
mostly spoken.

Communications, dc. — For its first respectable roads
Inverness-shire is indebted to the rebellions of 1715 and
1745, which otherwise cost it so dear. Immediately
after that outbreak Fort George, Fort Augustus, and
Fort William were erected as a chain of forts across the
country, and detachments were sent thence to Inver-
ness, to Bernera, opposite Skye, and to Castle Duart in
Mull, while detachments under the direction of General
Wade were, between 1726 and 1737, set to work on the
construction of those military roads which used to excite
the astonishment and gratitude of travellers, and which
gave rise to the couplet somewhat Hibernian in expres-
sion whatever its sentiment —

' Had you seen these roads before they were made,
You would hold up your hands and bless General Wade.'

Still farther progress took place in the beginning of the
present century, when the Parliamentary Commission
roads were made. Between 1804 and 1820, 875 miles of
roadway were made through the Highlands, and prin-
cipally in Inverness-shire, at a cost to the country of
£267,000, to the counties concerned of £214, 000, "and
to the proprietors of neighbouring estates of £60,000.
These were added to from time to time till 1845, when
the pre.sent fully adequate system was pretty nearly
completed. The main lines of communication follow
the old military roads which were, first, from Inverness
through 13adenoch on by Dalwhinnie to the borders of
Perthshire (52 miles) ; second, the Boleskine road from
Inverness to Fort Augustus by the SE side of the Great
Glen from which a road passed by Glen TarlT, Corrie-
yairack, and the upper waters of the Spey, till it reached
the Perth road at Dalwhinnie (30) ; third, the road from
Fort Augustus to Fort William and mi to Ballachulish
(45) ; and fourth, the S roa<l by Fort George, Nairn, etc.
Of the new lines of communication the Great North road
from Inverness passes along the shore of the Beauly
316

INVERNESS-SHIRE

Firth to Boauly, and thence into Ross. There is a good
road along the NW side of the Great Glen sending off
branches to the smaller side glens. A cross road leaves
the Fort William road at Kilmonivaig, and passes, by
Glen Spean, Loch Laggan, and upper Strathspey, to
Dalwhinnie, where it joins the Perth road, and a branch
striking off at Roy Bridge proceeds by Glen Roy to join
the road already mentioned as passing over Corrieyairack.
Another main line of road passes from Glen Foyers by
Strathnairn to Daviot. The ground on the S side of
Corrie3'airack is so steep that the road had to be carried
up by a series of seventeen zigzag traverses ; this is now
used only as a drove road, and here, as M-ell as along the
higher portion of the Perth road, lines of posts stand by
the wayside short distances apart, so that the road nuiy
be ascertained during heavy snowstorms. The minor
district roads are all excellent. The Caledonian Canal
along the Great Glen is described in a separate article.
The Forres and Perth section of the Highland Railway
system passes through the county for a distance of 41
miles from the Dulnan river near its mouth on the N to
the borders of Perthshire at the pass of Drumouchter on
the S. The Inverness and Keith section of the same
system enters the county 2 miles E of Fort George
station, and passes through it for 10 miles to Inverness,
whence it is continued northward by the Dingwall
section which passes round the border of the Beauly
Firth, and quits the county after 13 miles at Muir of
Ord station. The Speyside section of the Great North
of Scotland railway passes through the Strathspe}' dis-
trict from Boat of Garten to the boundary near Crom-
dale after a run of 12 miles.

The only royal burgh in the county is Inverness.
Fort William is a police burgh with over 1500 in-
habitants, Beauly a burgh of barony with about 900,
and Kingussie — the chief place in the upper district — a
police burgh with over 600. Villages with more than
300 inhalutants are Campbelton, Clachnaharry, Newton-
more, and Portree ; and villages of smaller size are
Balloch, Broadford, Connage, Culcabock, Fort Augustus,
Glenelg, Hilton, Invermoriston, Kyle-Akin, Lewiston,
Lochmaddy, Lynchat, Pett}', Resaudrie, Smithtown,
Stein, and Stuarton. Markets are held at Muir of Ord,
Inverness, Strathdearn (Freeburn), Newtonmore, Kin-
gussie, Fort Augustus, Fort William, Urquhart, ' and
Bridge of Spean.

The civil county contains the twenty-seven entire
quoad civilia parishes of Aberneth}'-, Alvie, Ardersier,
Boleskine and Abertarff, Dores, Duthil, Glenelg, Inver-
ness, Kilmonivaig, Kilmorack, Kiltarlity, Kingussie,
Kirkhill, Laggan, Urquhart, Urraj', all on the main-
land ; and Barra, Bracadale, Duirinish, Harris, Kilmuir,
North Uist, Portree, Sleat, Snizort, South Uist, and
Strath, in the islands ; and nine parts of parishes, viz.,
Ardnamurchan, Kilmalie, and Small Isles, all shared
with Argyll ; Cromdale, shared with Elgin ; and Cawdor,
Croy, Daviot, Moy, and Petty, all shared with Nairn.
The quoad sacra parishes of Bernera, Duncansburgh,
Glengarry, Waternish, lush, Kno3'dart, Rothiemurchus,
Stenscholl, and Trumsigarry, and parts of the similar
parishes of Aharacle, Ballachulish, and Inverallan, are
also included. A few of these lie ecclesiastically in the
presbytery of Dingwall and the synod of Ross ; the
others are divided among the presbyteries of Inverness
and Nairn in the synod of Moray, and the presbj'teries
of Abertarff, Lochcarron, Skye, and Uist in the synod
of Glenelg. The church services are conducted in
Gaelic, except in one or two cases. There are also 45
places of worship connected with the Free Church, 3 in
couuection with the U. P. Church, 2 in connection with
the Baptist Churi'h, 1 in connection with the Wesleyan
Methodist Church, 6 in connection with the Episcopal
Church, and 21 in connection with the Roman Catholic
Church. In the year ending Sept. 1882 there were in
the county 162 schools, of which 140 were public, witli ac-
commodation for 17,788 children. These had 12,704 on
the rolls, and an average attendance of 8658. The staff
consisted of 183 certificated, 11 assistant, and 50 pupil
teachers. Inverness-shire, with a constituency (1882-83)

INVERNESS-SHIRE

of 2112, returns one member to parliament. It is
governed by a lord-lieutenant, 53 deputy-lieutenants,
and 250 justices of the peace. It forms a division of
the sheriffdom of Inverness, Elgin, and Nairn, with
resident sheriff-substitutes for the Inverness, Fort Wil-
liam, Skye, and Long Island districts. Ordinary courts
are held every Thursday and Friday from 1 Oct. to
31 March and from 1 May to 31 July. There is a small
debt court every Friday during session, and circuit small
debt courts at Kingussie on the Tuesday preceding the
first AVednesday after 16 Jan., and on the Tuesday
preceding the first Wednesday in May and September ;
on days not fixed at Fort Augustus and Beauly ; and at
Grantown for the adjoining Inverness-shire districts on
the first Wednesday after the 16 Jan. and the first
Wednesdays in May and September. Quarter sessions
are held on the first Tuesdaj^s of March, May, and
August, and the last Tuesday of October ; and monthly
justice of peace courts are held at Grantown, Kingussie,
Fort William, Portree, Dunvegan, Long Island, Loch-
maddy, Barra, and Harris. The police force, exclusive
of the burgh of Inverness, consists of 40 men (1 to
each 1826 of the population), under a chief constable,
with a salary of £250 a year. In 1881 the number of
persons tried at the instance of the police was 217, con-
victed 200, committed for trial 82, not dealt with 33.
The number of registered poor in 1881 was 3094, of
dependants on these 1054 ; of casual poor 458, of de-
pendants on these 329. The receipts were £28,106,
and the expenditure £27,314. All the parishes are
assessed for the poor except Small Isles. Inverness has
a poorhouse and a combination, noticed in that article ;
three parishes belong to the poor-law combination of
Nairn, and seven to the poor-law combination of Skye.
The proportion of illegitimate births averages about
8 per cent., the average death-rate about 17 per 1000.
Connected with the county are the 2d battalion Cameron
Highlanders (Militia) ; the 1st Inverness-shire Artillery
Volunteers, with 6 batteries at Inverness, and outside
the county batteries at Burghead, Cromarty, Stornoway,
Loch Carron, and Nairn (2) ; and the 1st Inverness
Highland Rifle Volunteers, with companies at Inverness
(4), Fort William, Kingussie, Beauly, Portree, Arder-
sier, and Roy Bridge. Valuation (1674) £6099, (1815)
£185,565, (1843) £182,064, (1865) £237,348 (1871)
£271,912, (1876) £293,250— all exclusive of burgh, rail-
ways, and canal,— and (18S3) £329,807, Highland rail-
way £16,679, Great North of Scotland railway £2039,
and Caledonian Canal £110, or a total of £348,635,
exclusive of the burgh. Pop. of registration county,
which takes in the whole of the parishes of Cromdale,
Crjy, Daviot, Moy, Petty, and Small Isles, but gives off
its parts of Abernethy, Ardnamurchan, Cawdor, Crom-
dale, Duthil, Kilmalie, and Urray (1871) 84,258, (1881)
86,389; civil county (1801) 72,672, (1811) 77,671, (1821)
89,961, (1831) 94,797, (1841) 97,799, (1851) 96,500,
(1861) 88,261, (1871) 87,531, (1881) 90,454, of whom
43,852 were males and 46,602 were females. In 1881
the number of families was 19,836, the number of houses
17,215, and the number of rooms 63,097.

The territory now forming the mainland parts of
Inverness-shire anciently belonged to the Vacomagi,
and was afterwards the centre of the territory inhabited
by the Northern Picts. After the seat of Pictish
power passed further S, we find the northern jxart of
the county forming part of the great division of
Morevia (see Moray), while the southern part be-
longed to Argathelia, which extended to the Mull of
Kintyre. The northern part was for long debatable
ground between the Kings of Alban and the Norwegian
Earls of Orkney, and it was not till the time of Mal-
colm III. that it passed firmly into the possession of
the Scottish kings. In the Acts of David I. about the
middle of the 12th century, the sheriffdom of Inverness
is mentioned as comprehending the whole of the king-
dom N of the Grampians. An Act in relation to it
allowing any man accused of theft a certain period
within which to produce the alleged vendor of what he
was accused of having stolen, says :— ' Aif ane dwellis

INVERNETTIE

bczond Drum Albin in Moray, Ross, Caithness, Argyle,
or in Kintj're, he sail have fyfteen dales and eke ane
month to produce his warrand before the Schircf ; and
gif he goes for his warrand dwelland in Moray, Ross, or
in any of the Steids or Places pei'taining to Moray, and
can nocht find nor apprehend his warrand, ho sail pass
to the Schircf oi Inverness, wha sail,' etc. The shires
of Elgin, Nairn, and Cromarty were constituted in the
second half of the 13th century ; those of Argyll,
Sutherland, and Caithness were constituted in 1633 ;
and Ross in 1661, at which time Inverness-shire took
nearly its present limits, except for the small inter-
change of territory with Elginshire in 1870. The prin-
cipal antiquities are noticed in the separate parishes.
We may hei-e mention the vitrified forts at Craig
Phadrick close to Inverness and others in Boleskine
and in Kiltarlity. There are Caledonian remains in
the form of tumuli, cairns, and stone pillars and circles
in almost every parish in the county. The duns or
Pictish towers in Glenelg, and the remains of circles, etc.,
at Clava, are particularly worthy of notice. Besides the
antiquities noticed in the article on the burgh of Inver-
ness, there is an old castle at Urquhart on Loch Ness,
Ruthven Barracks at Kingussie, the ruins of the chapel
of the chiefs of Clan Chattan in Moy, ruins of Beauly
Priory, the castle at Castle Stuart, another at Dalcross
in Daviot, a building at Ardersier said to have belonged
to the Knights Templars, and an old church at Laggan.

The lands in possession of the clans varied from time
to time, though to a very slight degree. The following
was the general distribution. The district about Beauly
and along by the Aird and Belladrum belonged to the
Erasers, as did also Strathalfric and Glen Cannich and
all Strath Errick N to Culduthel near Inverness.
Strathfarrer and Strathglass were in the hands of the
Chisholras. All the country along the NW side of
Loch Ness from the N side of Glen Urquhart to beyond
Glen Moriston, and aliout half way along Loch Oich
belonged to the Grants, as did also the lower waters of
the Spey, from Upper Craigellachie, near Aviemore,
down to the boundary of the county and beyond it.
The Clan Ranald IMacdonalds held the district about
Glen Garry, and all westward to the Sound of Sleat,
except a small corner between Loch Hourn and Glenelg
Baj% w^hich was in the possession of the JlacLeods of
Harris. Along the valleys of Loch Eil and Loch Arkaig
were the Camerons, whose domains also crossed the line
of the Great Glen and extended along Glennevis. In
Glen Spean, and particularly on the S side, were the
Macdonalds of Keppoch, and N of them up to Corry-
arrick were Clan Ranald of Lochaber. The Forest of
Gaick and Glen Feshie were included in the lands of the
Earl of Huntly, while the flat country from Inverness
to Fort George belonged to the Earl of Moray. Between
Upper Craigellachie and Kinrara, and extending E to
the Cairngorm Mountains, were the Shaws of Rothie-
murchus or Clan Quhele ; while the whole of the rest of
the county by Strathnairu, Strathdearn, Laggan, Loch
Ericht, and down the river Spey to Kinrara, was in the
hands of the gi'eat and powerful Clan Chattan, the two
principal septs of which were the Mackintoshes and
Macphersons. The former occupied the region N of
the Monadhliath Mountains and the latter the track to
the S. The clans of the island districts are gdven under
the article Hebrides.

Invernettie or Brickwork Bay, a bay of Peterhead
parish, NE Aberdeenshire, between Peterhead town
and Burnhaven village. Crescental in form, it measures
9 furlongs across the entrance, and 6 thence to its
innermost recess. A brick-work adjoining the bay, J
mile SSW of Peterhead, has been in operation since
the latter part of last century ; produces tiles and bricks
of excellent quality, from a bed of clay worked to a great
depth ; and exports large quantities of the bricks from
a small contiguous harbour. The Mills of Invernettie
and Invernettie Distillery stand 1^ mile SSW of the
town ; and the mills have such a number of wheels of
various shapes and sizes as to form a striking scene. —
Orel. Sur., sh. 87, 1876.

317

INVERNOCHTY, DOUNE OF

Invemochty, Doune of. See DorxE.

Inveroran, an iiin in Glenorchy parish, Argyllshire,
on the road from Loch Lomond to Glencoc, at the SW
end of Loch ToUa, 10 miles NIS'W of Tyndrum station.

Inveroy, a village in Kilraonivaig parish, SW Inver-
ness-shire, on the right bank of the Spean, 12 miles
ENE of Fort William.

Inverquharity, a barony, with an old castle, in the
lower section of Kirriemuir parish, Forfarshire, near the
South Esk's left bank, 3g miles NNE of the town. It
belonged for fourteen generations, from 1420 till the
latter'half of last t'entury, to a branch of the Ogilvies,
who received a baronetcy in 1626, and still are designated
of Inverquharity or Baldovan. Members of this family
were Alexander, who is said to have been smothered at
FiNHAVEN (1446) ; another Alexander, who was captured
on the battlefield of Philiphaugh and executed at Glasgow
(1646) ; and a Captain Ogilvy, who followed James VII.
to the battle of the Boyue, and wrote the song It was
a' for our rightful King. One of the finest and most
entire baronial buildings in the shire, Inverquharity
Castle stands near the confluence of Carity Burn and
the South Esk, and belongs perhaps to the 15th century.
It is a four-story structure of strong ashlar work, in
pointed architecture ; has walls about 9 feet thick, pro-
jecting considerably near the top, and terminating in
a parapet ; is machicolated over the gateway ; and con-
tinues in a state of good preservation. Its heavy door
of grated iron, similar to that of Invermark, dates from
either 1444 or UQl.—Ord. Sur., sh. 56, 1870. See
chap. vii. of Andrew Jervise's Land of the Lindsays (2d
ed. 1882).

Inverquhomery, an estate, with a mansion, in Long-
side parish, NE Aberdeenshire, If mile SW of Longside
station. Its owner, James Bruce, Esq., holds 1300
acres in the shire, valued at £1650 per annum. — Ord.
Sur., sh. 87, 1876.

Invershin, a hamlet in Creich parish, S Sutherland,
at the confluence of the rivers Shin and Oikell, with a
station on the Sutherland railway, 3J miles NNW of
Bonar-Bridge. It has a public school.

Inverskinnerton. See Inver, Ross-shire.

Inversnaid, a hamlet in Buchanan parish, NW Stir-
lingshire, situated at the moutli of Arklet Water, on
the E shore of Loch Lomond, 4f miles SSE of Ardlui,
3 NNE of Tarbet, 18 N by W of Balloch, and 5 by
road WSW of Stronaclilachar Hotel on Loch Katrine.
The point of communication between the two lakes, it has
a steamboat pier and a good hotel, beside whicli Arklet
Water forms a pretty waterfall of 30 feet, spanned by
a narrow footbridge. Inversnaid was the place where,
on 28 Aug. 1803, Wordsworth saw the ' sweet Highland
girl,' the ferryman's sister, whom he celebrates in song,
and whose beaut j' and kindness are described in Dorothy
AVordsworth's Journal. The ruined Garrison of Inver-
snaid, 7 furlongs KE of the hamlet, Avas erected in
1713 to check the depredations of the Macgregors ; and
was for some time commanded by General Wolfe, when
he was an officer in the Buffs. See Craigroyston. —
Ord. Sur., .sh. 38, 1871.

Invertiel, a quoad sacra parish in Abbotshall and
Kinghorn parishes, Fife, comprising part of the southern
or Linktown extremity of Kirkcaldy. Constituted in
1869, it is in the presbytery of Kirkcaldy and synod of
Fife. The church was built before 1843 as a chapel of
ease at a cost of £1400, and contains 800 sittings. Pop.
(1871) 1828, (1881) 2023, of whom 904 were in King-
horn parish. — Ord. Sur., .sh. 40, 1867.

Invertrosachs, a mansion in Port of Monteith par-
ish, SW Perthshire, near the southern shore of Loch
Venachar, 5 miles WSW of Callander. Built about
1841, it was the residence for some weeks during the
autumn of 1869 of Queen Victoria. — Ord. Sur., sh. 38,
1871.

Inverugie, a small village in St Fergus parish, Banff-
shire (detached), on the left bank of the Ugie, If mile
above its mouth, 3 miles NW of Peterhead, and | mile
N by E of Inverugie station on tlie Peterhead branch
of the Great North of Scotland railway. The lands of
318

INVERURIE

Inverugie were granted by William the Lyon (1165-
1214) to Bernard le Cheyne, of whose clescendants
Reginald was chamberlain of Scotland from 1267 to
1269, whilst Henry, his brother, was Bishop of Aber-
deen from 1281 to 1333. Reginald's granddaughter
conveyed them by marriage about 1350 to a younger
branch of the Keith i'amily, which in 1538 became
united to the main stem by the marriage of William,
fourth Earl Marischal, and jMargaret, daughter and co-
heiress of Sir William Keith of Inverugie ; and, for-
feited by their .sixth descendant, tlie tenth Earl Llaris-
chal, for his share in the '15, since 1764 they have
belonged to the Fergusons of Pitfour. The Che3-nes'
original castle stood on the coast, at the influx of the
Ugie to the ocean, opposite Buchanhaven ; and is now
represented by only i'aint vestiges ; but seems from
these to have been a structure of considerable extent.
It is said to have been visited by True Thomas of Ercil-
doune, who prophesied concerning it —

' Inverugie by the sea,
Lordless shall thy laudis be.'

The subsequent castle, close to the village, was founded
about 1380 by Sir John de Keith, though ' Che3'ne's
Tower ' is probably of earlier date ; but it was mainly
erected, about the close of the 16th century, by the
fifth Earl Marischal, who founded Marischal College in
Aberdeen. Exhibiting features and styles distinctly
indicative of its various dates, it was, next to Dunnottar
Castle, the principal seat of the Earls J\larischal, and
forms the theme of many traditions respecting their
bygone magnificence. In the latter half of last century
the main building was floored, roofed in, and surmounted
by an observatory ; but the next proprietor stripped it
of these modernisings, and suftered ruin to resume her
sway. On the N it is screened by a rising-ground, the
Castle Hill, where the Earls once exercised ' the power
of pit and gallows ; ' and it now exhibits a picturesque
appearance, with the river winding between its wootled
banks around three sides of it.— Ord. Sur., sh. 87,
1876.

Inverugie, a handsome modern mansion in Duflus
parish, Elginshire, within 1 mile of the Moraj' Firth,
and 3 miles E by S of Burghead. Purchased by his
father in 1852, the estate is the property of Edward
Mortimer, Esq., who holds 673 acres in the shire, valued
at £973 per annum. — Ord. Sur., sh. 95, 1876.

Inveruglas, a hamlet in Luss parish, Dumbartonshire,
on the W shore of Loch Lomond, at tlie S side of the
mouth of Douglas Water, 3| miles NNW of Luss
village. It has an inn, and maintains a ferry (5J
furlongs wide) across the lake to Rowardennan.

Inverurie, a town and a parish in Garioch district, Aber-
deenshire. The to-svn, standing 195 feet above sea-level at
the confluence of the rivers Ury and Don, has a station
on the Great North of Scotland railway, \^ miles SE of
Inveramsay Junction, 3 N by W of Kintore, and 16^ NW
of Aberdeen. It occupies the low peninsula between the
confluence of the two rivers, and includes the suburb of
Port Elphinstone on the right or Kintore bank of the
Don, with which it is connected by a three-arch bridge
erected in 1791 at a cost of £2000, whilst three bridges
over the Ury were built between 1809 and 1839. So
straggling is its alignment, that it looks more like a
village than a town ; yet it possesses far greater import-
ance than many a place of more pretentious appearance,
and it dates from remote antiquity. Robert Bruce lay
sick here on the eve of his victory of Barra in BounxiE
parish, 22 May 1308 ; and here, on 23 Dec. 1745, Lord
Lewis Gordon, with 1200 Jacobites, surprised and de-
feated 700 loyalists imder the Laird of Macleod. The
importance, however, of the place originated in the
opening (1807) of the quondam Aberdeen Canal, whoso
terminus here presented scenes not dissimilar to those
of the quays of Aberdeen, with sometimes hundreds of
carts in a day delivering grain, and carrying away coals,
lime, bones, iron, timber, and building materials. Now,
since the canal was superseded by the railway (1854),
Inverurie serves as a i)oint of concentration and a seat

INVERURIE

of miscellaneous trade for a pretty wide extent of sur-
rounding country ; and it has a post office, ^nth money
order, savings' bank, insurance, and telegraph depart-
ments, branches of the Union, Aberdeen Town and
County, and North of Scotland Banks, a National
Security savings' bank (1837), 11 insurance agencies,
2 hotels, a gas-light company, a water supply of 1876,
a masonic lodge, a Young Men's Christian Association,
a temperance societ)-, a Bible association, a vohmteer
corps, a curling club, a tannery, a brewery, meal and
paper mills, Tuesday cattle-markets once or twice a
month, and feeing-markets in ila}^, July, and Novem-
ber. The town hall was built in 1863 at a cost of
£2500, and is a neat Italian edifice with a clock-tower.
Tlie parish church (1842 ; 1330 sittings) is a beautiful
Gothic granite structure, repaired and altered in 1876 ;
and the Free church (1876 ; 800 sittings) is an Early
English building, with a NE spire 107 feet high. Other
places of worship are a Congregational church (1822 ; 360
sittings), aWesleyan chapel(1819 ; 200sittings), StMary's
Episcopal church (1843-57 ; 200 sittings), and the Roman
Catholic Church of the Immaculate Conception (1852 ;
200 sittings). A conical mound, the Bass of Inverurie,
at the S end of the town, has been noticed separately ;
another smaller one, to the W of the main street, bears
the name of Coning Hillock, and is supposed to mark the
grave of Aedh, King of the Picts, who ' in 878 was slain
at Nrurim by his own people.' "William Thorn (1799-
1848), the ' weaver poet of Inverurie,' was for nearly ten
years a resident ; and the memoir prefixed to the Paislej-
edition of his Poems (1880) has much of interest relating
to the place. Inverurie claims to have been made a
royal burgh by "William the Lj-on or Robert Bruce ; and
under a charter of novodamus, granted by Queen Mary
in 1558, is governed by a provost, 3 bailies, a dean of
guild, a treasurer, and 3 common councillors, who also
act as police commissioners. "With Elgin, Kintore,
Peterhead, Banfi", and Cullen, it unites to send a member
to parliament. The municipal and the parliamentary
constituency numbered 490 and 429 in 1883, when the
annual value of real property amounted to £9055 (£7712
in 1873), whilst the corporation revenue was £384.
Pop. of parliamentarv burgh (1841) 1731, (1861) 2520,
(1871) 2856, (1881) 2931 ; of royal burgh (1881) 2669 ; of
police burgh (1881) 2575 ; and of entire town (1871)
2959, (1881) 3048, of whom 473 were in Port Elphin-
stone, and 1614 were females. Houses (1881) 566 in-
habited, 18 vacant, 4 building.

The parish of Inverurie is bounded E by Keithhall, S
by Kintore and Kemnay, and "W and N by Chapel of
Garioch. Its utmost length, from E to "W, is 4§ miles ;
its utmost lireadth is 2^ miles ; and its area is 4995J
acres, of which 49 are water. The Dox winds 4 miles
north-by-eastward along all the southern border, and the
Uey 5J south-eastward along the northern and eastern.
At their confluence the surface declines to 170 feet
above sea-level, thence rising westward to 524 feet at
Ardtannies Hill, 400 at Dilly Hill, and 780 at Knock-
inglew Hill. The tract around the town, to the extent
of 850 acres, is low and fiat ; and the Ury's vallej' is
broader than the Don's. Granite prevails in the S, trap
in the "V\' ; and the soil of the low ground is light j'ellow
fertile loam, mostly incumbent on sand, whilst that of
the high grounds is various, and shades away into moor.
About three-fifths of the entire area are in tillage, one-
fifth is under wood, and the rest is pastoral or waste.
Antiquities are two stone circles, the supposed site of a
'Roman road,' and remains of St Apolinarius' chapel.
The principal mansion is ilanar, situated among well-
wooded grounds on the southern slope of a hill, 3^ miles
W by S of the town. Its o^vner, Henry Gordon, Esq.
(b. 1848 ; sue. 1874), holds 2260 acres in the shire,
valued at £2115 per annum. Aquhorthies, 1 mile
further W, was from 1799 till 1829 the seat of the
Roman Catholic college, transferred in the latter year
to Blairs. Four proprietors hold each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 5 of between £100 and
£500, 18 of from £50 to £100, and 56 of from £20 to
£50. Inverurie is in the presbytery of Garioch and

ZONA

synod of Aberdeen ; the living is worth £430. Market
Place public, "West High Street public, a Free Church
infant, and an Episcopal school, with respective accom-
modation for 317, 200, 102, and 82 children, had (1881)
an average attendance of 222, 136, 61, and 59, and grants
of £191, 18s., £130, 3s., £45, 6s., and £41, 9s. 6d.
"V^aluation (1860) £8169, (1883) £11,466, phis £1237 for
railway. Pop. (1801) 783, (1831) 1419, (1861) 2668,
(1871) 2970, (1881) 3038.— C/d Siir., sh. 76, 1874.
See John Davidson's Inverurie and the Earldom of
the Garioch (Edinb. 1878).

Inverwick. See Glexlyox.

Inzievar, an estate, with a modem mansion, in the
detached portion of Saline parish, S'W Fife, 5 miles W
of Dunfermline. Its owner, Archibald Vincent Smith-
Sligo, Esq. (b. 1815), holds 2323 acres in Fife and Perth
shires, valued at £3594 per annum. — Ord. Sur., sh. 40,
1867.

lona, an island and quoad sacra parish at the S"W
corner of the island of Mull, and separated from the
long promontory kno^vn as the Ross of Mull by a channel
about a mile wide, deep enough for the passage of the
heaviest ships, but dangerous on account of the sunk
rocks. For quoad cirilia purposes the island belongs
to the parish of Kilfinichen and Kilvickeon, one of
those into which the island of Mull was divided in
1730. The date of junction is not known, but at the
period of the Reformation lona was still a distinct par-
ish. The island lies NE and S"W, and is about 3J miles
long and 1^ mile wide. The area is about 2000 acres,
of which 600 are imder occasional cultivation, the rest
being pasture or waste. In the centre, at the narrowest
part, a plain extends across from side to side, with a
small green hillock in the centre. Here the soil is fairly
good ; but to the N the surface is rougher, and shows
grassy hollows and rock}^ rising-grounds, terminating in
Dun-i (327 feet). To the N a strip of low land extends
to the shore, and terminates in a stretch of white sand,
chiefly composed of broken shells. Along the E the
ground is flat and fertile. To the S of the central plain
the surface is irregular, with rocky heights and grassy
hollows, but affording fair pasture. The underlying
rocks are entirely Laurentian, with a dip nearly vertical,
the strike being from NE to S"W. There are beds of
slate, quartz, marble with serpentine, and a mixture of
felspar, quartz, and hornblende passing sometimes into
a sort of granite. Among other minerals epidote may
be found. The coast has a number of small rocky bays
and headlands. It is by no means such a bleak and
dismal place as it is sometimes represented to be, and
there is some truth in the Gaelic proverb that asserts
that if a man goes once to lona he wUl go three times.
The name of the island has a very large number. of
varieties, and, according to Dr Reeves, in his edition of
Adamnan's Life of St Columha, lona is a mistake for
loua, the root being lou. The following are some of
the names it has had at different dates : — Hyona (a.d.
657), Hii (730), Columbkill (730), li (900), Hi (11th
century), I-cholaimchille and leoa (late 11th century),
Yona and lona [circa 1251), Icolmkill (circa 1400),
Yensis. The old derivations I-thona, 'the island of
waves,' and I-shona, 'the blessed island,' are now aban-
doned. Y, I, or li is the island, while Columkill is the
cell of Columba, and IcolumkiU or Icolmkill is the
island of the cell of Columba.

The chief interest of the island lies in its historical
associations with St Columba and the introduction of
Chiistianity into Scotland ; and so powerful are these
associations that, though Dr Johnson on his visit in
1773 liad to be carried ashore on the back of a High-
lander, and had to sleep in a barn among straw, with
a portmanteau for a pillow, he had }'et no thought of
grumbling, but instead burst out into high praise. ' We
were now treading that illustrious island which was
once the luminary of the Caledonian regions, whence
savage clans and roving barbarians derived the benefits
of knowledge and the blessings of religion. To abstract
the mind from all local emotion would be impossible if
it were endeavoured, and would be foolish if it were

319

lONA

lONA

possible. Whatever withdraws us from the power of
our senses ; whatever makes the past, the distant, or
the future predominate over the present, advances us in
the di^jnity of thinking beings. Far from me and from
my friends be such frigid philosophy as may conduct us,
indifferent and unmoved, over any ground which has
been dignified by wisdom, braver}", or virtue. That
man is little to be envied whose patriotism would not
gain force upon the plain of Marathon, or whose piety
would not grow warmer among the ruins of lona.'
Wordsworth has devoted four sonnets to the same sub-
ject—

' Isle of Columba's Cell,
^Vlle^e Christian piety's soul-cheeriiiEr spark
(Kindled from Heaven between the light and dark
Of time) shone like the morning star.'

And again —

' On to lona !— What can she afford
To us save matter for a thoucrhtful sigh,
Heaved over ruin with stability
In urgent contrast? To diffuse the Word
(Thy Paramount, mig-hty Nature ! and Time's Lord)
Her Temples rose, 'mid jiagan gloom : but why.
Even for a moment, has our verse deplored
Their wTongs, since they fulfilled their destiny?
And when, subjected to a common doom
Of mutability, those far-famed Piles
Shall disappear from both the sister Isles,
lona's Saints, forgetting not past days,
Garlands shall wear of amaranthine bloom.
While heaven's vast sea of voices chants their praise.

' How sad a welcome ! To each voyager
Some ragged child holds up for sale a store
Of wave-worn pebbles, pleading on the shore
Where once came monk and nun with gentle stir.
Blessings to give, news ask, or suit prefer.
Yet is yon neat trim church a grateful speck
Of novelty amid the sacred wreck
Strewn far and wide. Think, proud Philosopher !
Fallen though she be. this Glory of the west.
Still on her sons the beams of mercy shine ;
And "hopes, perhaps more heavenly bright than thine,
A grace by thee vinsought and unpossest,
A faith more fixed, a rapture more divine.
Shall gild their passage to eternal rest." '

In Aug. 1847 the island was visited b}' the Queen
and Prince Albert during their tour in the west and
their progress northward to Ardverikie. Prince Albert,
the Prince of Leiningen, the Duke of Norfolk, Earl
Grey, and Sir James Clark landed, while the Queen
remained in the yacht and sketched. They had a very
primitive and decorous reception. A few plainly-dressed
islanders stood on the shore, carr3'ing tufted Avillow-
wands, and prepared to act as an escort ; the body of
the people stood behind at a respectful distance looking
eagerly on ; while a few children, in the usual fashion
of the island, offered pebbles and shells for sale.

St Columha. — Columba or Colm or Colum was born
in Ireland a.d. 521, and was from his boyhood noted
for his piety and devotion to wisdom. Even when a
young deacon his power was wonderful. Adamnan tells
how, when he was in Leinster acquiring divine wisdom,
a young girl fled to his master Gemman for protection.
Her pursuer, ' an unfeeling and pitiless oppressor of the
innocent,' without any regard for the presence of the
holy men, 'stabbed the girl with his lance under their
very cloaks, and, leaving her lying dead at their feet,
turned to go away back. Then the old man, in great
aflliction, turning to Columba, said, " How long, holy
youth Columba, shall God, the just judge, allow this
horrid crime and this insult to us to go unpunished ? "
Then the saint at once pronounced this sentence on the
perpetrator of the deed, ' ' At the very instant the soul
of this girl whom he bath murdered ascendeth into
heaven shall the soul of the murderer go down into
hell ; " and scarcely had he spoken the words when the
murderer of the innocent, like Ananias before Peter, fell
down dead on the spot before the eyes of the holy
youth.' About 545 he is said to have founded a large
monastery in Ireland, in a place called, from the number
of its oaks, Dearmagh, identified with Durrow in King's
County, and his character for sanctity must have made
him a man of considerable power and influence. About
3-20

5G0 Curuan, the son of the King of Connaught, who
had taken refuge with the saint, was forcibly carried off
by Diarmaid, King of Ireland, and the latter is said to
have given further offence by deciding against Columba
in a dispute with Finnian of Moville about a jMS.
psalter. The second incident is probably false (for there
is no trace of a quarrel between Columba and Bishop
Finnian), but the first seems to ha^•e led to the great
battle fought at Culdremhne in Connaught in a.d. 561,
in which the northern Hy Xeill defeated the southern
Hy Keill, under King Diarmaid, with great slaughter.
Columba sprang from the tribe of Cinel Conaill, a
branch of the northern Hj- ISTeill, and is traditionally
credited with having incited his kinsmen to make war
on King Diarmaid, 'in order to avenge the violated right
of sanctuar}', and to have contributed to their success
bj' means of his pra}-ers. He was in consequence held
responsible for the bloodshed, and was summoned before
a s}"uod of the saints of Ireland, who decided that he
must quit Ireland in perpetual exile, and neither again
gaze on its shores or tread its soil, but must go to a
distant land and win back from paganism as many souls
as there had been persons killed in the battle of Cul-
dremhne. Leaving Ireland he sailed for the "Western
Isles, and after in vain trying Islay, Jura, and Colonsay
(from all of which Ireland was still visible), he finally
landed at the S end of lona, and finding that Ireland
was no longer to be seen {Cairn Cul-ri-Erin being his
point of view), he settled there, and began his work
among the heathen. The part of tlie story regarding
his perpetual exile seems to be a fable, for Adamnan
speaks of him as exercising constant supervision over
the Irish monasteries with which he was connected, and
records a large number of visits he is said to have paid
to Ireland, while he attributes the saint's desire to go
forth as a missionary merely to his love for Christ.
'His real motives,' says Dr Skene, 'for undertaking
this mission seem therefore to have been parth* religious
and partly political. He was one of the twelve apostles
of Ireland M-ho had emerged from the school of Finnian
of Clonard, and he no doubt shared the missionary spirit
which so deeply characterised the Monastic Church of
Ireland at this period. He was also closely connected
through his grandmother with the line of the Dalriadic
kings, and as an Irishman must have been interested in
the maintenance of the Irish colony in the AVest of
Scotland. Separated from him by the Iri.sh Channel
was the great pagan nation of the Xorthei'n Picts, who,
under a powerful king, had just inflicted a crushing
defeat upon the Scots of Dalriada, and threatened their
expulsion from the country ; and while his missionary
zeal impelled him to attempt the conversion of the Picts,
he must have felt that, if he succeeded in winning a
pagan jjeople to the religion of Christ, he would at the
same time rescue the Irisli colonj- of Dalriada from a
great danger, and render them an important service by
establishing peaceable relations between them and their
greatly more numerous and powerful neighbours, and
replacing them in the more secure possession of the
western districts they had colonised.'

He set out from Ireland in 563 at the age of 42, and,
according to a quatrain at least as old as the beginning
of the 12th century —

' His company was forty priests.
Twenty bishops of noble worth ;
For the psalm-singing, without dispute,
Thirtj' deacons, fifty youths.'

He seems first to have visited Conall, King of Dalriada,
and then to have passed on to lona, where, according to
the old Irish life, he found 'two bishops,' who 'came to
receive his submission from him. But God manifested to
Colum Cille that they were not in truth bishops; where-
fore it was that they left the island to him when he ex-
posed their real history and career.' Tliis story of the
monks is probably founded on fact, and Dr Skene is of
opinion that not only was there ' an earlier Christian
establishment on the island,' but that it belonged to
that peculiar development of the Irish church which
was kno\vn as the Church of the Seven Bishops. Bede

lONA

lONA

tells us that the island of Hii ' had been by the dona-
tion of the Picts who inhabit these districts of Britain
given over long before to Scottish monks, from whose
preaching thej' had received the faith of Christ,' and
possibly the donation may have been to the earlier
settlement to which Columba succeeded. However
that may be, and whether he received the right from
the Picts or from the Dalriads, his claim to the island
seems to have been fully recognised and admitted. His
landing took place probably on the 12 Jlay 563, and tra-
ditionally at the bay now known as Port-a-churaich, and
he must at once have proceeded to found the monastery
and establish the ' church which not only embraced
within its fold the whole of Scotland N of the Firths of
Forth and Clyde, and was for a century and a half the
national church of Scotland, but was destined to give
to the Angles of Northumbria the same form of
Christianity for a period of thirty years. ' The build-
ings that now remain are of course of much later date
than Columba's time. Dr Skene, who has carefully
and patiently investigated the matter, is indeed C[uite
positive that the first erections were on a site about ^
mile to tlie N of the present cathedral, between Dun-i
on the W, and the old burying-ground called Cladh-an-
discart on the E. From the lives of St Columba wi'itten
by Cummin (the white abbot, 657-669) and Adamnan
(abbot 679-704), the original structures were (1) a
monastery with a small court, on one side of which was
the church, with a small side chamber, on a second side
the giiest chamber, on the third a refectorj^, and on the
fourth dwellings of the monks ; a little way off on the
highest part of the ground (2) the cell of St Columba,
where he sat and read or wrote during the day, and
slept at night on the bare ground with a stone for liis
pillow ; (3) various subsidiary buildings, including a
kiln, a mill, a barn, and a cowhouse, which latter was,
however, outside the rampart. Kot far off was a
sequestered hollow (identified by Dr Skene with C'abhan
cuildeach), to which Columba retired when he wished
to pray in solitude. The whole was bounded by a
vallum or rampart, the course of which may still be
traced. The site of the monastery has already been
noted, and St Columba's cell seems to have been within
the rampart immediately to the E of the mound known
as Cnoc-na-hristeadh clach, close to the house at present
called Clachanach. The kihi was probably about 100
yards NW of Torr-abb, and the mill was in the same
neighbourhood. It has left its traces in the small
stream to the X of the present cathedral ruins which
bears the name of Struth-a-mhulUnn or the mill stream.
Eemains of old causeways may be traced from the land-
ing places of PoH-na-martlr, Port Eonan, and Port-na-
muiyitir. All the early buildings, except the kiln, were
of wood, the guest chamber was wattled, the church
was of oak, and the cell of Columba was made of planks.
The monks were divided into three classes, the older
brethren, who devoted themselves to the religious ser-
vices of the church, and to reading and transcribing the
Scriptures ; second, the younger and stronger working
brothers, who devoted themselves to agriculture and the
service of the monastery ; and third, the alumni or
youth under instruction. They took a solemn vow at
the altar, were tonsured from ear to ear, and wore
white robes with over bodies and hoods of the natural
colour of tlie wool.

After he had set matters in order, the Saint seems to
have made frequent journeys to the mainland, probably
for missionary purposes, and in 565 he even made his
way across Drumalban, and along the Great Glen to the
court of the Pictish King Brude, which was somewhere
in the neighbourhood of Inverness. Here, after certain
miraculous occurrences, he converted Brude, and thus
prepared the way for the establishment of missions all
through the territories of the Picts, and for the more
rapid conversion of the whole Pictish nation. In 574,
on the death of King Conall, he consecrated his suc-
cessor Aidan, and in the following year, at the synod of
Drumceatt, he was able to obtain concessions which
practically established Dalriada as a kingdom indepen-

dent of the Irish Ard-ri. The death of Brude in 584
deprived Columba of his powerful friend and patron,
but it opened up new fields of labour. Brude's suc-
cessor was Gartnaidh, a southern Pict, whose seat was
at Abernethy on the Tay, and though the southern
Picts had been converted hy Ninian in the beginning of
the 6th century, they had lapsed, until the labours of
Columba restored them again to the true faith. Adam-
nan tells us that four years before his death he had a
vision that angels had been sent to bear his soul on high,
but they were stayed by the pra}'ers of his churches.
When the four years were nearly finislied he set every-
thing in order for his departure. The day before ' he
ascended the hill that overlooketh the monastery, and
stood for some little time on its summit, and as he
stood there with both hands uplifted, he blessed his
monastery, saying: "Small and mean though this
place is, yet it shall be held in great and unusual
honour, not only by Scotic kings and people, but also
by the rulers of foreign and barbarous nations, and by
their subjects ; the saints also, even of other churches,
shall regard it with no common reverence.'" On the
following day at nocturnal vigils he went into the
church and knelt down in prayer beside the altar, and
' his attendant Diormit, who more slowly followed him,
saw from a distance that the whole interior of the
church was filled with a heavenly light in the direction
of the saint,' which, as he drew near, quickly dis-
appeared. ' Feeling his way in the darkness, as the
brethren had not yet brought in the lights, he foimd
the saint lying before the altar,' and all the monks
coming in, Columba moved his hand to give them his
benediction, and so breathed his last on the 9 June 597,
while ' the whole church resounded with loud lamenta-
tions of grief. ' His body, ' wrapped in a clean shroud
of fine linen, and, being placed in the cofiin prepared
for it, was buried with all due veneration,' with no one
present but his faithful monks, for all the three days
and nights of his obsequies there was such a storm that
no one could cross the sound.

After Columba's death, tlie monastery continued its
career, but under harassing conditions, for under the
abbot second in succession to the founder began that
controversy concerning Easter, which was destined to
work such harm to the Columban Church. In this early
stage, however, the interference was from without, and
did not as yet disturb the harmony of the brethren,
who went on teaching and preaching and spreading
themselves still farther to the north. AVhen Edwin,
King of Deira, conquered Bernicia, many of the young
nobfes of the latter country seem to have, in 617,
taken refuge at lona, among them being Oswald, who
afterwards, in 634, invaded Xorthumbria, and won
back the kingdom from Penda of Mercia and Caedwalla
of Wales. As soon as he began to set things in order,
mindful of his hosts and entertainers, he sent to lona
where he had been baptized, and asked for ' a bishop,
by whose instructions and ministry the Anglic nation
which he governed might be taught the advantages of
faith in the Lord, and receive its sacraments ; ' and in
response to this Aidan was sent. The Columban church
flourished in Northumbria for thirty years, but the
Easter difficulty and question about coronal tonsure
then proved fatal to its further existence, and _ the
Northumbrian church conformed to the usages enjoined
from Rome. The influence of lona was no sooner lost,
however, to the south, than it made fresh conquests in
the north over all that wild district along the W coast
from Ardnamurchan to Loch Broom, but the parent
monastery seems to have been in a decaying condition,
for when Adamnan came into office as abbot, in 679, he
found it necessary to execute very extensive repairs, and
sent twelve vessels to Lorn for timber. He tried to
introduce the Roman calculation as to the time of
Easter, but his efforts led only to schism, which he
himself, however, did not live to see. About 717 the
continued resistance of the community to the cycles of
nineteen years, 'sent throughout all the jtrovinces of
the Picts,' caused them to be driven across Drumalban,

321

lONA

and entirely out of the dominions of King Naiton ; and
at this time, therefore, the sway of lona over the
monasteries and churches in Pictland entirely ceased
while the controversy of the styles does not seem finally
to have ended till about 772. In 749 there was a storm
in which a great number of the community of lona
perished, and in 795 the island was plundered by Danish
sea-rovers, and this happened again in 798. In 802 the
island was again plundered, and the buildings of the
original monastery, as repaired by Adaranan, were
Ijumed, while in a'subsequent attack, in 806, sixty-eight
members of the community were slain. These visits
seem to have caused so much alarm as to inspire the
churchmen with an intention of removing from the
western islands altogether, and before 807 the remains
of St Columba were carried away to Ireland and there
enshrined : Kells was erected, and to it passed the
primacy over the Columban monasteries in Ireland.
The relics were brought back in 818, and at that time the
monastery was rebuilt, and now of stone as affording
greater safety. The buildings were probably at the
same time changed to their present site as from its
natural features offering greater security. The Danes
granted the monks but a short respite, for in 825 the
abbot, and probably a number of the community were
slain for refusing to disclose where the rich shrine of St
Columba had been concealed. In 878 it was again
necessary to remove the shrine and relics of Columba
'to Ireland to escape the foreigners,' but they must
have been brought back about the close of the century.
According to the Annals of Ulster, lona was once more
plundered by the Danes in 986 on Christmas eve, and
the abbot and fifteen of the monks were slain, while in
the following year 360 of these plunderers were slain ' by
a miracle of God and of Cholaimchille.' Traditionally,
the martyrdom of these sixteen took place at a bay at
the N end of the island, and known as Traith ban na
manach, or the AVhite bay of the monks. This was the
last occasion on which lona suffered from the Danes, but
the buildings seem to have remained in a ruined state
thereafter till about 1074, when Queen Margaret ' re-
stored the monaster}', . . . rebuilt it, and furnished
it with monks, with an endowment for performing the
Lord's work ; ' but the island passed very shortly after
into the rule of Magnus Barefoot, King of Norway, and
in 1099 the old order came to an end with the death of
the last of the old abbots. Under the bishopric of Man
and the Isles the monastery now became subject to the
bishopric of Drontheim, to which Man and the Isles
was suffragan, and pi-obably fell into a state of decay,
till in 1156 Somerled won the Sudrejar, including lona,
and once more restored the connection between lona
and Ireland by placing the monastery under the care of
the Abbot of Derry. In or about 1203 Reginald, Lord
of the Isles, founded in the island a monastery of Bene-
dictine Friars formerly thought to be of the Cluniac
order, but now considered by Dr Skene to have been
rather a branch of those introduced by David I. in 1113
from Tyron in Chartres, and settled by him first at
Selkirk, and subsequently at Kelso. At the same time
there was founded a nunnery for Benedictine nuns, of
which Beatrice, the sister of Reginald, was first prioress.
It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The nuns seem
at a later date to have been Augustinian. The deed of
confirmation of the monastery, dated 9 Dec. 1203, still
exists in the Vatican, and most of the ruins that now
exist are those of this monastery and nunnery. "When
the Benedictine monastery was established the abbot
' appears to have attempted to thrust out the piior
Celtic community and place them in a separate building
near the town, for we are told in the Ulster Annals that
in 1203 "a monastery was erected by Cellach in the
middle of the Cro of lona {Croi la) without any legal
right, and in despite of the family of lona, so that he
did considerable damage to the town {Baile).'" The
Irish clergy, however, brought aid to their brethren,
and, ' in obedience to the law of the church, pulled
down the monastery.' A compromise seems, however,
to have been arranged, for from this time onward the
322

lONA

old monks of lona disappear from its history, and the
Benedictines were supreme. Dr Reeves identifies the
site of this monastery vrith the Gleann-an-Tcaviimll,
but Dr Skene thinks it was near the parish church.

In a valuable paper read to the Society of Antiquaries
of Scotland in 1873, and published in their Proceedings,
and subsequently in the 1S74 edition of Adamnan's Life
of St Columba, Dr Skene indicated the opinion that
none of the buildings that remained were of older date
than the 12th century, being the remains of the build-
ing founded by Reginald, Lord of the Isles, between
1166 and 1207, while the capital of one of the columns
in the tower has sculptured on it, ' Donaldus O'Brolchan
fecit hoc opus,' and the Lister Annals record the death
of Domhnall Ua Brolcliain (who was probably prior of
lona) in 1203.* Remains that came to light during
operations undertaken for the partial restoration of
the buildings in 1874-75 have led him since then to
modify his opinion, and in a subsequent paper read in
the end of 1875, and published in the Scottish Society
of Antiquaries' ProceediTigs for 1875-76, he points out
that the little chapel N of the Abbey Church of St
ilary (it Avas not a cathedral till near the Reforma-
tion), and at a little distance from it, had an entirely
different orientation pointing more to the N, and that
alongside it some foundations were exposed with a
similar orientation. To the W of the ruins a small
building known as St Columba's house was similar in
orientation, and, therefore, these are probably all re-
mains of the establishment that preceded the Bene-
dictine monastery.

At the instance of the Duke of Argyll, the ruins were
in 1873 visited by Mr Robert Anderson, architect,
Edinburgh, who drew up a report with suggestions
for their rei)air and partial restoration. These were
carried out in the autumn of 1874 and the spring of
1875 with most excellent taste and judgment, the stone
for the repairs being all brought from Carsaig Quarry in
Mull, whence the original materials had been obtained.
During the operations the foundations of the chapels
and cloisters, which were formerly mere green mounds,
have been plainly marked out in order to give a clear
and accurate idea of the original plan of the Abbey. On
the N side a great deal was done, the chapel and refectory
having had walls, doorways, and windows restored, and
even reconstructed in exact imitation of the style of the
old architecture. In excavations in the cloister court
several beautifully carved pillars were exposed. They
formed the sides of little doors that led from the court
into the square. The foundation of a cross was exposed
on the mound known as Torr-Abb (the Abbot's Mound)
opposite the W front of the church, and from which
there is a magnificent view. This is probably the little
hill on which, according to Adamnan, Columba stood
when he gave utterance to the prophecy, already quoted,
as to the homage that should yet be paid to the island.
The excavations carried on at the nunnery have shown
the foundation lines of the buildings, and both here and
at the cathedral numerous stones were brought to light.
A short distance NE of the Abbey Church, at Cladh-an-
diseart, there was found in 1872 a heart-shaped stone 1
ft. 7 in. long, 1 ft. 3 in. wide, and 4^ in. thick, with
an incised cross on it. Dr Skene is inclined to tliink
it is the stone used b)' Columba as a pillow, and the
late James Drummond, R.S.A., has suggested that
besides ' when the remains of St Columba were en-
shrined this stone, with the sacred emblem carved upon
it, was put in the place where the saint's body had
lain' (See Dr Mitchell's Vacation Notes in Cromar,
Burghcad, and Strathspey, Edinb. 1875, reprinted from
the Proceedings of the Soc. Antiq. of Scot.). The
church, which was dedicated to St Mary, thougli Ijegun
in the 12th century, was probably built bit by bit for a
considerable time after, as was then quite customary. It
is cruciform in shape, consisting of nave, transepts, and
choir, with a sacristy on the N side of the choir and side

' This was the inscription as it existed in 1S48. Between that
and 1850 it was damaged probably by some reckless relic hunter.
See Keeves' Adamnan's Life of St Columba, Ed. 1874, p. 247.

lONA

chapels on the S. Near the W entrance was a small
chamber called St Columba's Tomb. The length, from E
to ^Y, is 160 feet, and tlie width 24. The width across
the transepts is about 70 feet. Over the crossing is a
square tower 70 feet high, and supported by arches
resting on four pillars. The tower itself is plain, but it
is lighted on one side by a window formed by a slab
with quatrefoil openings, and on the other by a marigold
or Catherine wheel window with spiral mullions. The
capitals of the columns are of sandstone, carved Avith
very grotesque figures, still sharp and well defined.
One shows the sacrifice of an ox, another the tempta-
tion of Adam and Eve, another the fall, another the
crucifixion, another Peter cutting ofi" Malchus' ear,
another an angel weighing the good and evil deeds of a
man, with the devil trying to depress the side of the
evil deeds. There are three sedilia ' formed ^vith tre-
foiled ogee arches under connected dripstones, which
run out afterwards into a horizontal tablet, and have at
each apex the remains of what seems to have been a
sculptured head.' The high altar seems to have been
of marble, and measured 6 feet by 4. Dr Sacheverell
mentions it in 16S8, and Martin, in his Description of
the Western Islands in 1702, speaks of the beauty of its
marble. Before 1772 it had got much destroyed, and
Pennant, who visited the place in that year, and who
describes it minutely in his Tour, confesses that he and
his companions carried pieces of it away. It has since
vanished entireh'. On the N side of the chancel is the
tomb of Abbot Mackinnon who died in 1500, and oppo-
site it is that of Abbot Kenneth Mackenzie. Both are
much defaced. In the centre of the chancel is the
monument of Macleod of Macleod, the largest in the
island. To the N and E of the cloisters are the re-
fectory and chapter-house. The latter is a gloomy
vaulted chamber, with the roof still entire ; the build-
ing over it is said to have been the library. The
library was traditionally very large and valuable, but
was entirely dispersed at the Reformation, a number of
the MSS. passing to the Scotch College at Douay. The
Ptclig Oran or Ecilig Odhrain, i.e., the burial-place of
Oran, to the SW of the Abbey, is the ancient burial
place of the monastery. The name is very old, and the
account of its origin given in the old Irish life of St
Columba is somewhat peculiar, and shows trace of a
custom seemingly of wide extent. After he had landed
at H}' , ' Columbkille said to his people . , . it is
permitted to you that some one of you go under the
earth of this island to consecrate it. Odhran arose
quickly, and thus spake : If you accept me, said he, I
am ready for that. O Odhran, said Columbcille, you
shall receive the reward of this : no request shall be
granted to any one at my tomb, unless he first ask of
thee. Odhrain then went to heaven.' Tradition has
considerably amplified this, and makes St Oran be
buried alive, to appease some fiend who undid at night
all Columba's work by day at the first occupation of the
island. Oran was dug tip at the end of three days, and
began immediately to assure the bystanders that there
was neither deity nor devil, neither future happiness
nor future punishment, statements which so utterly
shocked St Columba that he ordered Oran to be at
once reinterred, and hence has come the Gaelic proverb,
' Earth to earth on the mouth of Oran, that he may
blab no more.' Dr Reeves supposes that the place
received its present name from the first of St Columba's
fraternity who was buried in it. It contains a chapel
called St Oran's Chapel, a jjlain oblong building of 40
feet by 20, and dating from the close of the 11th cen-
tury. There is no E window, but in the sides near the
E end are two narrow openings for light. At the W
end is a circular-headed doorway, with beak-head orna-
ment. Dr Reeves supposes this to be the building
resulting from the liberality of Queen Margaret. The
oldest tomb-stones in the cemetery are two ^vith Irish
inscriptions, requesting prayer for the souls of Eogan
and of Maelpatrick. Here, it is said, were buried the
Scottish kings prior to Malcolm Ceannmor, Ecgfrid
the Northumbrian king (684), Godfred (1188), and

lONA

Ilaco Ospac (1228). According to Donald Munro,
Dean of the Isles, who visited the place in the 16th
century, and left an account of his visit, there were
three tombs formed like chapels, in which were laid
' the kings of three fair realms. ' The first, which con-
tained the kings fi-om Fergus II. to Macbeth, was in-
scribed. Tumulus Regum Scotim ; the second, which
contained the remains of four Irish kings, had the in-
scription, Tumulus Regum Eibernice ; the third, with
eight Norwegian kings, was marked. Tumulus Regum
NorwegicE. An eflSgy of a man in armour is the monu-
ment of Macquarrie of Ulva. According to Dr Skene,
a stone of the early part of the 13th century, with a
sword, a small cross in a comer, and a treasure box
(marking the founder of a church), is the tomb of
Reginald, the founder of the monastery. That of
Angus, Lord of the Isles in Bruce's time, who was
interred at lona in 1.306, has a galley on it. There is
also a portion of a monument to Abbot Mackinnon,
already mentioned. The reason of the place having
such sanctity as a burying-ground, is said to be the
Gaelic prophecy thus j)araphrased by the la,te Dr Smith
of Campbeltown : —

' Seven years before that awful day.

When time shall be no more,
A watery deluge will o'ersweep
Hibernia's moss3" shore.

' The green-clad Islay, too, shall sink,
Wiiilc with the great and good
Colunilja's hapjty isle shall rear
Her towers above the flood.'

There is a chapel at the nunnery still farther to the
S with late Norman features passing into Early English.
It is now partially restored. Here is the monument of
the last prioress, much injured by the fall of the roof.
It bears the inscription 'Hie jacet Domina Anna Donaldi
Terletti quondam Prioressa de lona quoi obiit anno
]MDXLIIItio ejus animam Altissimo Commendamus.'
It has a figure of the prioress with the symbols of the
mirror and the comb. It was asserted by the older
writers that the island at one time contained 360 crosses,
and that the synod of Argyll ordered these to be des-
troyed shortly after the Reformation, but this is plainly
a very strong case of travellers' stories. There are now
two entire crosses, traces of other nine or ten in the
shape of fragments, and of three or four from the names
of places. The entire ones are St Martin's Cross, oppo-
site the "W door of the Abbey Church, and Maclean's
Cross, on the wayside between the nunnery and the
cathedral. The name of the latter is e\adently due to
some popular mistake ; it is 10 ft. 4 in. high, while the
former is 14 feet high. There was a parish church at
an early date, and, according to the Old Statistical
Account, it was distinct from the nunnery church, and
is there described in 1795 as 'entire, but tottering.' It
is mentioned in 1561 by the name of Teampul lionain —
the church of Ronan. In the 14th and loth centuries
lona was under the Bishop of Ditnkeld, but in 1506 it
passed back to the care of the Bishop of the Isles, and
from this date till the Reformation it was the Cathedral
Church of the diocese. In 1648 Charles I. granted the
island to Archibald, Marquis of Argyll, and it still be-
longs to his descendant, the present Duke of Argyll. A
golden chalice belonging to the Abbey was in the pos-
session of the Glengarry family, and from them passed
to the service of the Roman Catholic Cathedral in
Glasgow. From the sacristy of that church it was
stolen in 1845, and by the thieves consigned to the
melting-pot.

At Port-a-Churaich, where Columba first landed on
lona, is a ship-barrow. It is about 50 feet in length,
and is traditionally the model of St Columba's currcKh
or boat. Dr Wilson in the Prehistoric Annals of Scot-
land is of opinion that it is a sepulchral barrow of some
fierce Viking, erected during the period Avhen the island
was so fre(|uently ravaged by the Northmen. There
were formerly two standing stones at the same place.
There are also cairns on the W side of the bay, and at
Sithean Mor (the great fairy mount) there is also a

323

lOESA WATER

tumulus on wliicli Pennant says at the time of his visit
(1772) there was a circle of stones.

The parish of lona contains also five farms in the
Eoss district of Mull. It was erected in 1845, and is in
the presbytery of Mull and the synod of Argyll. The
village is to "the E of the ruins of the nunnery, and
there are a few houses in the northern district, but the
southern part is uninhabited. The parish church is in
the viEage ; the stipend is £120, and there is a manse
and glebe. There is also a Free chm-ch, the minister of
which resides iu MuU, and the old Free church manse
is now used as a hotel. The post-town is Aros in Mull.
Pop. (17S2) 277, (1841) 1084, (1S71) 865, (1881) 713, of
whom 645 were Gaelic-speaking.

See Monro's account in 1549 in the Macfarlane MS.
in the Advocates Library, and particulars supplied to
Sacheverell, Governor of Man, by Dean Fraser in 1688
in the same MS. ; ilarrin's Bcscription of the Western
Islands (Lond. 1703) ; Pennant's Tour (Chester, 1774) ;
'HsLciea.Ti's Historical Account o/ /o?2a (Edinb. 1833-41);
Transactions of the lona Club, Collectanea de rebus
Albanicis — Edited bv the lona Club [Edited by
Donald Gregory and W. F. Skene] (Edinb. 1834);
Graham's Antiquities of lona (Lond. 1850) ; C. A.
Buckler's Cathedral or Abbey Church of lona (Lond.
1866) ; Duke of Argyll's lona (Lond. 1870 ; reprinted
from the voL of Good Words for 1869) ; Adamnan's
Life of St Columba (Scottish Historian Series, Edinb.
1874) ; and Skene's Celtic Scotland, vol. ii. (Edinb. 1877).

lorsa Water, a stream in Kilmorie parish, Arran
island, Buteshire, issuing from tiny Loch na Davie
(11S2 feet above sea-level), and running S| miles south-
south-westward to the X side of Machrie Bay. It has
been widened, 2 miles above its mouth, into artificial
Loch lorsa (3 x f furl. ; 146 feet), which, like the
stream, yields sea and river trout, with occasional
salmon. See Glexioesa. — Ord. Sur., sh. 21, 1870.

Irongath HilL See Boeeowstouxxess.

Irongray. See Kiekpateick-Ieoxgkat.

Irvine, The (Gael iar-an, 'westward-flowing river'),
a river of Ayrshii'e, rising on the Lanarkshire border, at
an altitude of 810 feet above sea-level, near Drumclog,
and 7 miles SW by W of Stiathaven. Thence it winds
29| miles westward, dividing Cunninghame from Kyle,
till it falls into the Firth of Clyde at Irvine to^^Ti. Its
principal affluents are Glen Water, Polbaith Burn, KU-
mamock Water, Carmel Water, Annick Water, and the
Gamock ; and it bounds the parishes of Galston, Loudoun,
Kilmarnock, Eiccarton, Kilmaurs, Dreghorn, Dundonald,
and Irvine, under which full details are given as to the
town, villages, mansions, and other features of its course.
If the beauty of the stream, gliding slowly over its
pebbly bed, the richness and verdure of its haughs, the
openness of its course, the array of mansions looking
down upon its meanderings, the displays of industry and
wealth which salute it on its progress, are taken into
view, the Irvine will be pronounced one of the most
pleasing rivers of Scotland, more grateful to the eye of
combined patriotism and taste, than not a few of the
highly picturesque streams which have drawn music
from a hundi-ed harps, and poesy from a cluster of the
most gifted bards. The Irvine used to yield toler-
able sport, and down to Kilmarnock the trout-fishing
still is fair, but lower down its waters are poisoned by
the refuse of public works and by town sewage. A
few salmon ascend as far as Shewalton. — Ord. Sur.,
shs. 23, 22, 1865.

Irvine, a town and a parish in Cunninghame district,
Ayrshire. A seaport and a royal and parliamentary
burgh, the town lies on the light bank of the river
Irvine, immediately above a northward loop in the
river's course, 14 mile in a direct line E by N of its
mouth, but 2| miles following the winding of its
channel. The parliamentary burgh includes the large
Euljurb of FrLLAETOX, on the left bank of the river,
within Dimdonald parish ; and here stands Ir\'ine
Junction on the Glasgow and South-Western railwaj-,
10| mUes N by W of A\t, 74 W of Kilmarnock, 3^ SSE
of Kilwinning, 29| SW of Glasgow, and 77 WSW of
324

IE VINE

Edinburgh. The site of its main body is a rising-
ground, with sandy soil, extending parallel to the river ;
and the site of its suburbs, and of buildings on the out-
skirts, is low and flat. Sir William Brereton described
it in 1634 as ' daintily situate both upon a navigable
arm of the sea and in a dainty, pleasant, level champaign
country. Excellent good corn there is near uuto it,
where the ground is enriched or made fruitful ^tith the
sea-weed or lime.' The principal street, f mile long,
runs through it from end to end, and is mostly spacious
and airy, presenting an appearance superior to that of
the main street of most of our second-rate towns. Some
of the other streets, in whole or in part, are well-built ;
and the outskirts and environs contain a number of
villas. The town has been lighted with gas since 1827,
and in 1878 a gravitation water-supply was introduced
from a distance of 6 miles at a cost of £40,000. The
old Town Hall, in the middle of the High Street, was
built in 1745 ; the new Town Hall, on the E side of
the High Street, adjacent to its predecessor's site, is an
Italian edifice of 1859, erected at a cost of £4000. It
has a fine tower 120 feet high, and contains councU
chambers, a court hall, a library, and other apartments.
The royal Bank (1858) and the'tlnion Bank (1859) are
also striking buildings, the latter being in the Venetian
variety of the Italian style. A four-arch carriage bridge
over the river was built in 1746, and, as Avidened and
improved in 1837, is one of the handsomest bridges in
Ayrshii-e ; while the railway viaduct, on the line from
Glasgow to A3'r, is an elegant six-arch structure. A
magnificent market-cross, in the centre of the town,
was taken down in 1694, and used for the erection of
the meal market ; and two gateways stood formerly at
the principal entiances from the country, the one across
High Street, the other across Egliuton Street. In 1867
was erected a statue of Lord-Justice-Geueral Boyle, by
Sir John Steell, E.S.A. The parish church, buUt in
1774, on a rising-groimd in the Golf-fields, to the S of
the foot of High Street, is an oblong edifice, with 1800
sittings and a beautiful spire, which figures con-
spicuously in a great extent of landscape. Fullarton
Established church, built as a chapel of ease in 1836 at
a cost of £2000, contains 900 sittings, and in 1874 was
raised to quoad sacra status. Other places of worship
are Irvine and Fullarton Free churches, both erected
soon after the Disruption; two U.P. churches. Trinity
(1810 ; SOO sittings) and Eelief (1773 ; 856 sittings), a
Baptist chapel (1839 ; 600 sittings), and St Mary's new
Eoman Catholic chapel school (1SS3 ; 400 sittings). A
jire-Eeformation chapel, dedicated to the Virgin, stood
on the bank of the river near the parish church ; and at
the S comer of the churchyard was a monastery of Car-
melite or White Friars, fomiled in the 14th century by
Fullarton of Fullarton. Irvine Academy, in- an airy
situation, a little W of the N end of High Street, is
surroimded by an enclosed playground of 2 acres, and,
representing a public school of 1572, was erected in
1S14 at a cost of £2250. It presents a handsome
appearance, contains eight class rooms, with accommo-
dation for 514 scholars, has two bursaries of £42 annual
value, and gives education in English, writing, arith-
metic, geography, drawing, book-keeping, mathematics
Latin, Greek, French, German, and Italian.

Irvine has a post ofiice, with money order, savings'
bank, insurance, and telegraph departments, branches
of the Eoj-al, Union, Clydesdale, and British Linen Co.'s
Banks, a National Security Savings' Bank (1815), 27
insurance agencies, 2 hotels, a British public house
(1881), with hot and cold baths, a Gladstone club_';i883),
a horticultural society, a literary institute. Good Templar
and Orange halls, a fever hospital, and 3 weekly news-
papers—the Saturday ^craW (1871), the Saturday Times
(1873), and the Friday Express (1880). A weekly grain
market is held on Monday ; fairs are held on the first
Tuesday of May and the third Monday of August ; and
there are May and August race-meetings. Manufactiir-
ing industry, both on the town's own enterprise and va.
connection with Glasgow and Kilmarnock is extensively
carried on. Hand-sewing, introduced about 1790,

IRVINE

v;ventnally rose to such importance as to employ nearly
2000 females ; in the town and neighbourhood, nearly
2000 females ; whilst hand-loom weaving, particularly
in the departments of book-muslins and checks, engaged
400 weavers and 200 winders. At present employment
is aflbrded by four large chemical works, a dynamite
factory, the Irvine Forge Co., and two iron foundries,
as well as by ship-building, rope-making, and all the
ordinary kinds of artiticership. Here also are large grain
stores and the workshops of the Glasgow and South-
western railway. The traffic in connection with the
railways, and in the interchange of general merchandise
for country produce, is considerable. The port now
ranks as a creek or sub-port of Tfioox ; but, till a recent
period, it was a head port, with full customs establish-
ment, and with jurisdiction from Troon to Largs and
round Arran, in 1760 having more vessels than any
other port in Scotland, with the exception of Leith and
of the Upper Clyde ports, then all comprised in Port
Glasgow. The exports are coal, carpeting, tanned
leather, tree plants, and miscellaneous articles ; the
imports are timber, oats, butter, fruits, raw hides, linen
cloth, and limestone. The mouth of the harbour was
formerly so encumbered by a bar that, notwithstanding
extensive operations to clear and deepen the entrance,
vessels of over 80 or 100 tons burden were obliged to
take in or deliver part of their cargoes outside, although
from the bar to the C[uay there was generally a depth
of from 9 to 11 feet at spring tides, and occasionally of
16 during strong southerly or south-westerly winds. A
gi'eat improvement, however, has been eflected by the
extension of the wharf in 1873 and other works ; and
the trade, which had fallen off, has since revived.

Irvine is one of the most ancient royal burghs of
Scotland, having received a charter from Alexander II.
(1214-49). Another, still extant, was granted hj King
Robert Bruce in 1308 for services rendered during the
"Wars of the Succession, and has been twelve times
renewed and confirmed by subsequent monarchs. For
some time the burgh exercised jurisdiction over the
whole of Cunninghame, but this it lost by encroach-
ments of the barons ; and it now is governed by a

provost, 4 bailies,
a dean of guild, a
treasurer, and 12
councillors. The
royal burgh is
limited to Irvine
proper ; the parlia-
mentary, including
Fullarton, unites
with Ayr, Camp-
beltown, Inveraray,
and Oban in send-
ing a member to par-
liament. A burgh
court and a justice
of peace court is
held every Monday;
a sheriff small debt
court on the first
Thursday of February, April, June, August, October,
and December ; and a dean of guild court is held as
occasion requires. The six incorporated trades — square-
men, hammermen, coopers, tailors, shoemakers, and
weavers — early and voluntarily renounced their ex-
clusive privileges, in advance of most similar bodies in
Scotland. The corporation property, comprising 422
acres of arable land, the town hall, the town's mills,
the meal market, the shambles and washing-houses, etc. ,
yielded a revenue of £1498 in 1832, of £1980 in 1862,
of £2939 in 1875, and of £2539 in 1882. The municipal
and the parliamentary constituency numbered 1232 and
1009 in 1883, when the annual value of real property
within the parliamentary burgh amounted to £32,641,
15s. 2d., against £13,854 in 1866, £10,424 in 1875,
and £25,941, 13s. in 1882. Pop of parliamentary burgh
(1841) 4594, (1851) 7534, (1861) 7060, (1871) 6866, (1881)
8498, of whom 4166 were males and 4508—4299 in 1871

Seal of Irrine.

IRVINE

— were in the royal or police burgh. Houses (1881) 1878
inliabited, 252 vacant, 9 building.

The original church belonged till the Reformation to
the monks of Kilwinning; later it was served from 1618
to 1640 by David Dickson (1583-1663), hymn-Amter and
commentator. In 1546 the town suffered much from
the plague ; in 1640 twelve women were executed at it
for the crime of witchcraft ; and it bore a considerable
share in the struggles of the Covenanters. In 1783, in
connection with the Rev. Hugh White, second ministei-
of the Relief congregation, and with several other in-
fluential townsfolk, 'Elizabeth Buchan (1738-91) here
founded the fanatical sect of the Buchanites. Expelled
in the following year by the magistrates, and pelted out
of the town, she was joined at Kilmaurs by 45 of her
disciples, and thence proceeded in a kind of exultant
march to Closeburn in Dumfriesshire (Joseph Train's
Buchanites from First to Last, Edinb. 1846). In Aug.
1839 Irvine was temporarily crowded Avith strangers,
pouring in from sea and highway to witness the fetes of
the Eglintox Tournament. Robert Burns was sent
hither at midsummer 1781 to learn the trade of a ilax-
dresser under one Peacock, kinsman to his mother. He
had one small room for a lodging, for which he gave a
shilling a week ; meat he seldom tasted, and his food
consisted chiefly of oatmeal and potatoes sent from his
father's house. 'As we gave,' he tells us, 'a welcome
carousal to the New Year, the shop took fire, and burned
to ashes, and I was left, like a true poet, not worth a
sixpence.' The Irvine Burns Club possesses the MS.
from which the first edition of his poems was printed.
Another poet, James Montgomery (1771-1854), was born
in a small back dwelling in the street that leads to the
station ; the room where his fathei', a Moravian mis-
sionary, preached, is noAV a bonnet factory. The
novelist, John Gait (1779-1839), was born in a house on
the site of the Union Bank ; and other natives were
Robert Blair (1593-1666), a noted Presbyterian divine,
and Lord-Justice-General David Boyle (1772-1853). A
Yiscountcy of Irvine, in the peerage of Scotland, was
given in 1661 to Henry, the eldest surviving son of Sir
Arthur Ingram of Temple-Newsom in Yorkshire ; it
became extinct in 1778 at the death of the ninth Vis-
count. The ruinous Seagate Castle, belonging to the
Earls of Eglinton, is supposed to have been the jointure
house of the jMontgonieries, and to have been built soon
after 1361. Dr Hill Burton, however, has a note on
' the Normandish tone of its gateway. ... A visit
to the spot rather confirmed the notion that some of the
features of the building were of the later Norman.
There is a round arch, with thinnish rounded mould-
ings, and small round pillars with square or bevelled
bases and capitals, with the tooth or star decoration in
the hollows of the mouldings. The doorway has more
of an ecclesiastical than a baronial look, although the
building it belongs to is baronial' {Hist. Scotl., ii. 98,
ed. 1876).

The parish of Irvine is bounded N by Kilwinning,
NE by Stewarton, E by Dreghorn, S by Dreghorn and
Dundonald, and W by the Firth of Clyde and Steven-
ston. Its utmost length, from NE to SW, is 4| miles ;
its utmost breadth is 3J miles ; and its area is 4191 \
acres, of which 182^ are foreshore and 78| water. The
river Irvine curves 3^ miles Avest-by-northward on or
close to all the Dundonald border ; Axxick Water, its
affluent, winds 7 miles south-westward along all the
boundary Avith Dreghorn ; and Garxock Water flows
3j miles soiitlnvard along that Avith Kilwinning and
StcA^enston, till it falls into the Irvine just above the
latter's influx to the Firtli of Clyde. The south-Avestern
district is Ioav and flat ; the north-eastern ascends very
gradually till it attains 183 feet above sea-level near
Muirhead, Avhencc a beautiful vicAV is obtained of an
extensive seaboard, of a great reach of the Firth of
Clyde, and of the mountains of Arran and parts of
Argyllshire. The rocks are carboniferous, and abound
in seams of coal and in good building stone. The soil
of the SW district is partly a light loam, but mostly of
a sandy character, and yields heavy grain and green

325

IRVINE

crops ; that of the NE is mainly a stiffish clay. "With
the exception of some 300 acres of drifting sand, the
entire parish is capable of cultivation ; only a very small
portion of it is let exclusively for pasture ; but a con-
siderable aggregate, including part of Egliuton Park
and numerous clumps of plantation on the north-eastern
eminences, is under wood. Stane Castle, near Bourtree-
hill, the remains, it is said, of an ancient nunnery, is
the chief antiquity. The only mansion is Bourtreehill,
2 miles E of the town ; its owner, Geoffrey-Dominick-
Augustus-Frederick Guthrie, second Baron Oranmore
and Browne since 1836 (b. 1819 ; sue. 1860), holds 2720
acres in the shire, valued at £4737 per annum. Tliree
other proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and
upwards, 19 of between £100 and £500, 35 of from £50
to £100, and 50 of from £20 to £50. Irvine is the seat
of a presbytery in the synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; the
living is worth £550. Five public schools— Bank Street,
Fullarton, Loudoun Street, the Industrial, and Annick
Lodge — with respective accommodation for 500, 206,
312, 29i, and 165 children, had (1881) an average attend-
ance of 236, 207, 311, 286, and 95, and grants of £204,
12s., £180, 13s., £288, 6s. 6d., £249, 7s. 6d., and £82,
17s. Valuation, inclusive of burgh, (1860) £16,059,
(1883) £46,264. Pop. (1801) 4584, (1831) 5200, (1861)
5695, (1871) 5875, (1881) 601B.—Ord. Sur., sh. 22,
1865.

The presbytery of Irvine comprehends the old parishes
of Ardrossan, Beith, Dairy, Dreghorn, Dunlop, Fenwick,
Irvine, Kilbirnie, West Kilbride, Kilmarnock- Laigh, Kil-
marnock-High, Kilmaurs, Kilwinning, Loudoun, Steven-
ston, and Stewarton ; the quoad sacra parishes of New
Ardrossan, Crosshouse, Hurlford, Kilmarnock-St An-
drews, and Kilmarnock-St Marnoch's ; and the chapelries
of Dairy- West, Kersland, Fergushill, and Saltcoats.
Pop. (1871) 96,695, (1881) 100,244, of whom 13,326
were communicants of the Church of Scotland in 1878. —
The Free Church also has a presbytery of Irvine, with
5 churches in Kilmarnock, 2 in Kilbirnie, 2 in Salt-
coats, and 20 in Ardrossan, Beith, Catrine, Dairy,
Darvel, Dunlop, Fenwick, Fullarton, Galston, Hurl-
ford, Irvine, Kilmaurs, Kilwinning, Loudoun, Mauch-
line, Muirkirk, Perceton, Stevenston, Stewarton, and
West Kilbride, which 29 chm-ches together had 7323
members in 1883.

Irvine or Irving, an ancient parish in Annandale, SE
Dumfriesshire, now forming the middle part of Kirk-
patrick-Fleming parish. The Irvings, who either took
name from it or gave it name, held large possessions
here, and had their chief seat at Bonshaw Tower on
Kirtle Water. They multiplied into an important clan ;
signalised themselves on many occasions by patriotism
and valour ; numbered among their daughters ' Fair
Helen of Kirkconnel Lee ;' and sent off a distinguished
and flourishing branch to Nithsdale. — Ord. Sur., sh.
10, 1864.

Isbister, a fine mansion of recent erection in the
Picndall portion of Evie parish, Orkney.

Isla, a beautiful river of Forfar and Perth shires,
rising among the Grampians, at an altitude of 3100
feet, l\ mile NE of the meeting-point of Forfar, Perth,
and Aberdeen shires, and 6^ miles SSW of Lochnagar.
Thence it winds 29i miles south-south-eastward, then
17J miles south-westward, till, after a total descent of
3000 feet, it falls into the Tay at a point 3 furlongs
NNW of Cargill station, this being lU miles NNE of
Perth, and 4^ WSW of Coupar-Angus. Its chief
tributaries are Melgam Water, the Burn of Alyth, Dean
AVater, the Ericht, and Lunau Water, all noticed
separately ; and it traverses or bounds the parishes of
Glenisla, Lintrathen, Airlie, Ruthven, Meigle, Ben-
dochy, Blairgowrie, Coupar-Angus, Cargill, and Caputh,
under which, the Reekie Linn, and the Slugs of Acu-
RANNiE, are described the mansions, towns, villages,
and other features of its course. Tliat course is High-
land in Forfarshire, but in Perthshire assumes a Low-
land character. It is liable to great freshets ; and, on
occasion of the thunderstorm of 17 July 1880, the water
rushed down it in the form of a moving embankment
826

ISLAY

10 feet high, and, spreading over the valley, buried
crops of all kinds in sand, and swept away sheep and
lambs. The damage caused by another flood, in Sept.
1881, was estimated at £10,000, including £2000 for
renewal of embankments. Salmon ascend as high as
the Slugs of Achrannie, and heavy pike lurk in the
deep still pools about the river's mouth, whilst its
upper waters yield cajiital trout fishing. One sorrowful
memory the Isla has, that on 16 Oct. 1861 the Queen
and Prince Consort made their ' last expedition ' to
Cairnlochan or Canlochan Glen, immediately below the
Isla's source. The Queen describes it as 'a narrow
valley, the river Isla winding through it like a silver
ribbon, with trees at the bottom. The hills are green
and steep, but towards the head of the valley there are
fine precipices. To the S is Glenisla, another glen, but
wider, and not with the same high mountains. Cairn-
lochan, indeed, is "a bonnie place.'" Still, it was
somewhat paradoxical of Dr Macculloch to sa}^ that
' three yards of the Isla and its tributaries are worth
all the Tweed put together.' — Ord. Sur., shs. 65, 56,
48, 1868-70.

Isla, a small river of Banff and Aberdeen shires,
rising on Carran Hill at an altitude of 1200 feet above
sea-level, and running 18i miles north-north-eastward
through or along the borders of Mortlach, Botriphnie,
Keith, Grange, Rothiemay, and Cairnie parishes, till,
after a total descent of 1000 feet, it falls into the
Deveron at a point f mile ESE of Grange Junction.
Its scenery is diversified, but generally pleasing, and
occasionally very beautiful ; and its waters are well
stocked with trout. — Ord. Sur., shs. 85, 86, 1876.

Island Glass. See Glass-Ellan.

Islay, an island in Argyllshire, the chief one of
tlie southernmost group of the Hebrides. Its NE
coast is I mile distant from Jura at Feolin Ferry ;
and its E coast is 13J miles distant from the near-
est point of Kintyre. Its utmost length, from N by
E to S by W, is 25J miles ; its utmost breadth, in the
opposite direction, is 19 miles ; and its area is 235
square miles, or 150,355 acres. Its southern part is
cleft by Loch Indal into two peninsulas ; and its northern
part converges to a point somewhat in the manner of
two sides of an equilateral triangle, whose apex is Rudha
Mhail, in the extreme N. The Sound of Islay, com-
mencing opposite Rudha Mhail, and curving 14^ miles
south-south-eastward, separates all the NE coast from
Jura ; contracts from 3^ miles to ^ mile, and thence
again broadens to 6 ; has abrupt shores, rarely exceed-
ing 100 feet in height ; and is swept by such rapid tidal
currents, with short cross billows, as to be very dangerous
to navigators. A crescental curve, with convexity to
the E, and slightly diversified by a series of small head-
lands and bays, defines the coast from the SE end of the
Sound onward to the island's southern extremity, the
Mull of Islay, or Mull na Ho, which rises in cliffs to
the height of 750 feet, and contains a cavern. Loch
Indal, opening with a width of 8 miles, penetrates 12
miles north-north-eastward ; forms the expansion of
Laggan Bay at the middle of its E side ; narrows to a
width of from 1 J to 3 miles in its upper part ; and is all
comparatively shallow. Rhynns Point, with small
islands adjacent to it. Hanks the AV side of the entrance
of Loch Indal, and forms the extremity of the south-
western peninsula. A line running 13 miles north-by-
eastward from Rhynns Point, and then 15 miles north-
eastward to Rudha JMhail, defines all the rest of the
coast; is cut about midAvay by Loch Gruinnard, ])ene-
trating 4J miles southward to within 3 miles of Loch
Indal ; and lias elsewhere very trivial diversity of
either bay or headland. The entire coast, in a geneial
view, is bounded either by low rocks or by flat shores
and sandy beaches ; but at the Mull of Islay, as already
noticed, it soars in clilfs to a commanding height ; and
about Sanaig, on the NW side, it is pierced with several
large caves, one of whicli ramifies into a labyrinth. A
number of islets lie off the coast, particularly on the E,
and on the middle of the W side. The interior differs
much in character from most of the Hebrides and the

ISLAY

ISLAY

Higlilands, exhibiting no assemblage of mountain and
glen, yet displaying considerable diversity of structure
and of contour, and containing a fair amount of pleasing
landscape. Chief elevations, from N to S, to the E of
Lochs Gruinnard and ludal, are Scaribh Hill (1197 feet),
Beinn Dubh (974), Sgorr na Faoileaun (1444), and Sgorr
Voucharan (1157); to the W, Rock Side Hill (575), and
Beinn Tartabhaile (755).

Harbours, with quay or pier, are at Port Askaig, on the
Sound of Islay ; Port Ellen, on the SE coast ; Bowmore,
near the head of the E side of Loch Lidal ; Port Char-
lotte, on the W side of Loch Indal ; and Portnahaveu,
to the N of Rhynns Point. The small bays on the E
coast are, for the most part, dangerous of approach, on
account of sunken rocks ; and Loch Gruinnard is almost
the only place on the W coast which affords any anchor-
age. Numerous streamlets rise on the heights, run in
all directions to the sea, afford plenty of water-power for
any kind of machinery, and abound with trout and
salmon. Of several small fresh-water lakes dotted over
the interior, the largest are Loch Guirm(|x-J mile), 7
miles WNW of Bridgend, and Loch Finlagan (f x | mile),
3 miles WSW of Port Askaig. Quartz rocks prevail in
the principal hill ridge ; a fine limestone prevails in the
northern central district ; and a strip of clay slate
borders the W side of Loch Indal. PSeds of excellent
slate are plentiful, and have been largely worked ; good
marble has been quarried ; beds of fine silicious sand, suit-
able for the manufacture of glass, are so extensive as to
have furnished many cargoes for exportation ; lime and
shell sand, for mixture with neighbouring sea- weed and
moss into composts, are inexhaustibly abundant ; iron
ore has been worked of prime quality ; lead ore and
silver are mined ; and copper, manganese, graphite, and
other metallic minerals have been discovered. The
average rainfall in eight years ending with 1875 was
484 inches, or 14 below that of Greenock ; and the
average temperature was very nearly the same as that
of EcUnburgh — the mean in Islay being 47 '1°, in Edin-
burgh 47 '4°.

'Of late years,' writes Mr Duncan Clerk, 'the lands
have passed into new hands, the new proprietors being
Morrison of Islay (67,000 acres, valued at £16,440 per
annum), Ramsay of Ivildalton (54,250 acres, £8226),
Finlay of Dunlossit (17,676 acres, £2882), and Camp-
bell of Ballinaby (1800 acres, £378). The larger por-
tion of the old native race tenantiy has also passed
away, and their holdings are now mostly occupied by
tenants from Ayrshire and the Lowland districts, who
turn their attention princijiall}' to dairy-farming, and
find that Ayrshire stocks thrive exceedingly well. They
also rear a considerable number of cross lambs, which
are sent fat to Glasgow early in the season. The hill
districts, which were formerly only partially stocked,
are now covered with thriving flocks of black-faced and
Cheviot sheep, which help to supply the Glasgow mar-
ket. West Highland cattle are still reared to a large
extent, and the number is likely to increase under the
stimulus of the high i^rice of beef, which Islay supplies
in perfection. . , . The area of arable land, though
considerably increased, has not been so rapidly ex-
tended as might have been anticipated. However, the
cultivation of land has been very much imjjroved, so
that tlie production of food for cattle and sheep is very
much larger per acre than it was thirty years ago. Many
fields carry heavier crops of turnips, potatoes, and corn
than are usual even in the Lowlands. The improved
culture, and the general rise in the value of farm pro-
duce, stimulated by the landlords' large expenditure on
houses, fences, etc., has caused the rental of the island
to be nearly doubled within the last thirty years. So
much room for improvements still remains, however,
that, with a judicious outlay of capital, it might be
doubled again in the same number of years. The prin-
cipal exports from Islay are horses, cattle, sheep, jugs,
and poultry, cheese, butter, eggs, and, some years, a
large quantity of potatoes. Whisky is largely produced ;
and the seven distilleries aff'ord a valuable help in tlie
supply of manure, while they also assist in maintaining

prices of stock in the local markets, many cattle being
fattened off in connection with them ' {Trans. Highl. and
A(j. Soc, 1878). The arable soils are very various, but
generally fertile and well cultivated. More than one-
half of all the island's surface might be advantageously
subjected to regular tillage ; and much that was formerly
heathy, pastoral, or badly cultivated is now reclaimed,
well-worked, and very productive. Enclosing, draining,
judicious manuring, skilful cropping, and good road-
making were commenced not long after the era of general
agricultural improvement in Great Britain, and went on
with such steadiness as to render great part of the
island, many years ago, as well dressed as many an
equal extent of country in the Scottish Lowlands. The
roads are everywhere excellent, and have good bridges ;
and a very important one, 15 miles long, from Bridgend
to Port Ellen, opening up a district of previously little
value, was begun to be formed so late as 1841. Drain-
age operations were facilitated by a very large grant
under the Government Drainage Act, and by the pro-
duce of a local brick and tile work. Farming trafiic is
facilitated by abundance of local meal mills, by regular
markets and fairs at Bowmore, Port Ellen, Bridgend,
and Ballygrant, and by steamboat communication with
Glasgow daily during summer, and twice a week in the
winter. The spinning of yarn was formerly carried on
to the value of £10,000 a-year, but suffered extinction
through the action of the Glasgow factories. Telegraphic
communication with the mainland was established in
the autumn of 1871.

The island comprises the parishes of Kilchoman,
Kildalton, and Killarrow, with the quoad sacra parishes
of Kilmeny, Oa, and Portnahaveu ; and contains the
villages of Bowmore, Bridgend, Port Charlotte, Portna-
haveu, Port Ellen, and Port Askaig, all twelve of which
are noticed separatelj'. A sheriff small debt court sits
at Bowmore four times a year ; and a justice of peace
small debt court is held on the first Wednesday of
every month. Islay has a combination poorhouse at
Bowmore, with accommodation for 48 inmates, a branch
of the National Bank at Bridgend, a branch of the
Royal Bank at Port Ellen, 6 Established churches, 5
Free churches, an Episcopal mission chapel at Bally-
grant, a Baptist chapel at Bowmore, and 16 schools,
with total accommodation for 1650 children. Valuation
(1860) £20,805, (1883) £38,270. Pop. (1801) 6821,
(1831) 14,982, (1851) 12,334, (1861) 10,345, (1871)8143,
(1881) 7559, of whom 3766 were males, and 6673 were
Gaelic-speaking.

Islay was early and long in the possession of the Scan-
dinavians ; and it retains memorials of their sway in the
remains of many duns and castles, and in such topo-
graphical names as Kennibus, Assibus, Torribolse, and
Torrisdale. It passed from them to the kings of Man,
or sovereigns of the Hebrides ; and it is said to have
been, while in their possession, the place of their receiv-
ing rents and dues from large portions of their dominions.
Two rocks lying near each other, in a harbour on the S
side of the island, are called respectively Craig-a-neone
and Craig-a-nairgid, signifying the ' Rock of the silver
rent ' and the ' Rock of the rent in kind ; ' and these
are supposed to have got their names from being the
payment-scene of the Scandinavian royal rents. The
island next became the residence of the Macdonalds,
Lords of the Isles, the seat of their court, the sphere
of their pompous rule over their insular dominion ; and
it retains the ruin of their castle on an islet in Loch
Finlagan, the ruin of one of their fortalices at the SE
entrance of the Sound of Islay, the vestiges of another
of their fortalices on an islet in Loch Guirm, and the
ruin of a famous church of their period, surrounded with
an extensive cemetery, containing curious ancient gi-ave-
stones, on Island-Nave, adjacent to the NW coast. The
lands of Islay, along with those of Jura, Scarba,_and
Muckairn, continued to be held, for several generations,
by the descendants of the Macdonalds ; but they were
transferred, in the reign of James VI., to Sir John
Campbell of Calder for an annual feu-duty, the propor-
tion of which for Islay was £500 ; and they all were

327

ISLAY, RHINNS OF

afterwards sold to Campbell of Sliawfield for £12,000.
The emigrant ship, the Exmonth, in J\Iay 1S47 struck
on an iron-bound part of the NAV coast of Islay, and
vent almost instantly to pieces, when 220 persons were
drowned.

The six parishes of Islay, the parish of Jura, and that
of Colonsay and Oronsay, constitute the presbytery of
Islay and Jura in the synod of Argyll, which meets at
Bridgend on the last Wednesday of each month. Pop.
(1871) 9564, (18S1) 8917, of whom 655 were communi-
cants of the Church of Scotland in 1878.— A Free
Cliurch presbytery of Islay comprises the 5 charges of
Eowmore, Kilchoman, Kildalton and Oa, Killarrow and
Kilmeny, and Portnahaveu, with the mission station of
Jura, which together had 931 members and adherents
in 1883.

Islay, Rhinns of. See Islay and Oiisay.

Isle. See Lsle-Toll.

Isle Ewe. See Ewe.

Isle Maree. See Ellan-JIakee.

Isle-Martin, a triangular island of Lochbroom parish,
NW lioss and Cromarty shires. It lies in the firth or
elongated bay of Loch Broom, 4^ miles NW of Ullapool.
Separated from the coast of Coigach district by a strait
\ mile wide at the narrowest, it measures 9J by 7^ fur-
longs, rises to 397 feet above sea-level, and is used as a
fishing station. Pop. (1861) 51, (1871) 42, (1881) 42.—
Ord. Sur., sh. 101, 1882.

Isle of May. See May.

Isle of Oransay. See Okansay.

Isle of Whithorn, a seaport village in Whithorn
parish, SE Wigtownshire, at the head of a small bay, 2
miles NE of Burrow Head, and 3;^ SE of Whithorn
town. The most southerly village in Scotland, it
stands upon what was once a rocky islet, and conducts
some commerce with Whitehaven and other English
ports, having a well-sheltered harbour, with a pier
erected about 1790, and Avith capacity and external
advantages sufficient to invite extensive commerce. It
contains remains of a Scandinavian fort or camp and
the roofless ruin of 'St Ninian's Kirk,' which has been
falsely identified with the Candida Casa (397 a.d. ), and
so believed to represent the earliest place of Christian
worship in Scotland, but which was probably merely a

JEANTOWN

chapel attached to the priory of Whithorn. The
vilhiL;-e has a post office, with money order, savings'
bank, and telegraph departments, an inn, some tasteful
villas, a lifeboat, a public school, and a neat Free
church. Pop. (1831) 697, (1861) 458, (1871) 459,
(1881) S52.—Ord. Sur., sh. 2, 1856.

Isle Ornsay, a village and an islet in Sleat parish,
Isle of Skye, Inverness-shire. The village stands on
the W side of the Sound of Sleat, near the mouth of
Loch na Daal, opposite the mouth of Loch Hourn, 14
miles by steamboat route S by W of Kyle- Akin, and 11 by
road SSE of Broadford, under which it has a post office,
with money order, savings' bank, and telegraph de-
partments. Possessing also an inn and an excellent
natural harbour, thoroughly sheltered, commodious, and
much frequented by shipping, it is regularly visited by
the Glasgow steamers to the north on their way through
the Sound of Sleat, and commands the nearest route for
tourists, by walking and by boat, to Loch Scavaig and
the Cuchullin JMountains. The islet is small (§ x ^
mile), but serves to protect the entrance to the harbour.
It is crowned with a lighthouse, erected in 1857 at a
cost of £4527, and showing a fixed white light, vi.sible
at a distance of 13 nautical miles.

Isles, North. See North Isles.

Isles, The. See Hebrides.

Isle-Tanera or Taneramore. See Summer Islands.

Isle-Toll, a place with a post office under Dumfries,
in Kirkmahoe parish, Dumfriesshire, near the right
bank of the Nith, 2J miles SSE of Auldgirth. Isle or
Isle Tower, near it, is a modern mansion, whose owner,
Joseph Gillon-Fergusson, Esq. (b. 1848 ; sue. 1879),
holds 1009 acres in the shire, valued at £1119 per
annum. — Or-d. Sur., sh. 9, 1863.

Issay, a fertile island (1 x ^ mile) of Duirinish parish,
Isle of Skye, Inverness-shire, in Dunvcgan Bay, opposite
the middle of Vaternish. It is called also Ellan-Issa
or the Island of Jesus.

Ithan. See Ythan.

Itlaw, a hamlet in Alvah parish, Banffshire, 5 miles
SSW of Banff", under which it has a post office.

Ively. See Evelaw.

Ivybank, an estate, with a mansion, in Nairn parish,
Nairnshire, close to the town.

JACKTON, a village in East Kilbride parish, Lanark-
shire, 3j: miles WSW of East Kilbride village.
Jamaica, a village in Auchtermuchty parish,
Fife, li mile SSE of the town.

Jameston, a village in Contin parish, SE Eoss-shirc,
1 mile S by AV of Strathpeffer.

Jamestown, a village in Inverkeitliing parish, Fife,
5 furlongs SSW of Inverkeitliing town.

Jamestown, a small town in Bonhill parish, Dum-
bartonshire, on the left bank of the river Leven, 6^
furlongs N of Bonhill town. It shares in the busy
industry of the Vale of Leven, and has a post office, a
station on the Forth and Clyde Junction section of the
North British, a quoad sacra parochial church, and a
public scliool. The church, erected in 1869 at a cost
of £3000, in the Early English style, after designs by
Clark & Bell of Glasgow, has a nave and aisles, 800
sittings, a spire 130 feet high, and a large W window,
with nmllions and elaborate tracery. The quoad sacra
parish, constituted in 1873, is in the presbytery of
Dumbarton and synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; its minister's
stipend is £3-30. Pop. of town (1861) 8G9, (1871) 1163,
(1881) 2171 ; of q. s. parish (1881) 2925.— Orrf. Sur.,
sh. 30, 18CG.

Jamima. See Jemimaville.

Janeiield, an estate, with a mansion, in Kirkcudbright
parish, Kirkcudbrightshire, on the left bank of the Dee,
IJ mile N by E of the town.
328

Janetown, See Jeantown.

Janetstown, a village in AVick parish, Caithness, 5
furlongs W of the station.

Jardine Hall, an elegant mansion, with pleasant
grounds, in Applegarth parish, Dumfriesshire, on the
left bank of the river Annan, 2^ miles NW of Nether-
cleuch station and 5^ NNW of Lockerbie. Built
in 1814, it is the seat of Sir Alexander Jardine, eighth
Bart, since 1672 (b. 1829 ; sue. 1874), who holds 5538
acres in the shire, valued at £5813 per annum. His
father. Sir William (1800-74), was a well-kno^vn orni-
thologist. Spedlins Tower, the seat of Sir Alexander's
ancestors, stands on the opposite bank of the river,
within Lochmaben parish ; and is a strong, turreted,
ivy-clad structure, bearing date 1605. Within its
dungeon one Porteous, a miller, was imjirisoned by the
first Baronet, who, being called away to Edinburgh,
rode off" with the key iu his pocket, and never once
thought of his prisoner until he had reached the city-
Then he sent back, but all too late ; for the miller had
died of hunger, after gnawing his hands and his feet.
So the household was vexed by his ghost, until it was
laid in the dungeon by means of a black-letter Bible. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 10, 1864.

Jeantown or Lochcarron, a fishing village in Loch-
carron parish, SAV Koss-shire, on the northern shore of
Loch Carron, 3^ miles SAV of Strathcarron station, and
10 SSE of Shieldaig. Consisting chiefly of a straggling

JEDBURGH

row of poor dwellings, nearly a mile in length, but
containing a few pretty good shops and cottages, it has
a post office (Lochcarron), with money order, savings'
bank, and telegraph departments, a branch of the
Caledonian Bank, and a good inn. It suffered great
damage from a gale in November 1881. A rising-
ground behind it is crowned with a Scandinavian dune ;
and a road westward from it to Applecross traverses a
picturesque defile to the head of Loch Kishorn, and
then, in a series of traverses, ascends a steep mountain
corrie to the height of 1409 feet, amid stupendous
precipices, similar to those of Glencoe. — Orel. Sur., sh.
82, 1882.

Jedburgh (Jcd-icorth, 'town on the Jed'), the county
town of Roxburghshire, a royal, parliamentary, and
police burgh, the seat of the circuit court for the counties
of Roxburgh, Selkirk, and Berwick, the seat of a pres-
bytery, a post and market towm, and the centre of traffic
to a large extent of country, is situated on the left bank
of Jed Water, in the SE of Teviotdale. It lies 49 miles
SE from Edinburgh by road, but 56^ by rail ; from
Kelso 10 miles SSW by road, but 10| by rail ; from
Hawick 10 miles NE by road, but 18J by rail ; and
12 miles NNW from the English border. A branch
line of railway, 7^ miles long, and opened in 1856,
connects at Roxburgh with the North British line from
St Boswells to Kelso ; the station, to which the chief
hotels run omnibuses, being nearly | mile NNE of the
market-place, beyond the suburb of Bongate. Between
Jedburgh and Kelso, Hawick, Selkirk, Ancrum, Otter-
burn, Oxnam, Denholm, etc., carriers' carts go regularly.

Jedburgh proper, built on a spur of the Dunian ridge,
may be described as cruciform, the High Street and
Castle-gate cutting at right angles the Canon-gate and
Burn-wynd, now Exchange Street, with the market-
place at the point of intersection. The High Street
and Castle-gate, the best streets in the town, lying from
NE to SW, and almost 4 mile long, are well paved,
lighted with gas, and contain many of the chief build-
ings. Charles Stuart (the Pretender) lodged at No. 9
Castle-gate in 1745. The Canon-gate, which stretches
eastward from the market-place to the Jed, contains the
house (No. 27) in which Burns lodged in 1787. Queen
Street or Back-gate, which runs nearly parallel to tlie
High Street, contains the house Sir David Brewster
was born in (11 Dec. 1781) ; and that inhabited by
Mary Queen of Scots in 1566, when detained in Jed-
burgh by severe illness. The latter, with thick walls
and small windows, is large. It is described in the
records of the Privy Council as ' the house of the Lord
Compositor,' and seems, from the arms upon it, to have
been the property of "Wigmore of that Ilk. Wordsworth
visited Jedburgh in the autumn of 1803, and, owing to
the inns being full, took up his abode at 5 Abbey Close.
The attention and willing service of his hostess are re-
ferred to in the well-known lines :

' I praise thee, matron ! and thy due
Is praise, heroic praise, and true.
With admiration I beliold
Thy gladness, unsubdued and bold ;
Thy looks, thy gestures, all present
The picture of a life well spent.'

Besides the town of Jedburgh proper, there are two
suburbs — Richmond Row and Bongate. The former,
purchased by the town in 1669 from the Marquis of
Lothian, lies on the E side of the Jed; the latter, ex-
tending N of Richmond Row, belonged at one time to
the monks, and was bought from Lord Jedburgh. These,
however, do not belong to the royalty, though included
•within the miinicipal burgh. Bongate is built on level
ground, and from it the town gradually rises from an
elevation of 253 feet above sea-level to one of 388 feet.
This rise, which culminates at the Town-head, where
are the abbey and the building called Jedburgh Castle,
now the jail, makes the town more beautiful and more
healthy. The river Jed, upon which the town stands,
is crossed by 7 bridges.

The County Buildings, situated near the market-
place, in which the different courts meet, and iu which
68

JEDBURGH

the head officials of the town and county transact their
business, were erected in 1812. They are built of
polished free-stone, but present no special architectural
features. The prison occupies the site of the old castle
of Jedburgh at the top of the town, was built in 1823,
and is conspicuous, owing to the castellated style of its
architecture. It has ample cell accommodation, as well
as courts for ventilation and exercise. Jedburgh Castle,
of whicli no trace now remains, is inseparably con-
nected with the history of the town, to which, from
its size, position, and strength, it leut protection.
Built about the 12th century, it was a favoui'ite resi-
dence of many of the Scottish kings, as David I.,
Malcolm IV., William the Lyon, Alexander II., and
Alexander III. Within its walls the last-named was
living when he married Jolande, daughter of the Count
of Dreux, in 1285 ; and here took place the banquet
which followed the marriage ceremony in the abbey.
On the same occasion it was the scene of the well-known
incident, the appearance in the hall of the figure of
Death, supposed to presage the calamity which befell
the country by the king's death at Kinghorn in 1286.
In the troubled times of the Wars of the Succession, Jed-
burgh Castle changed hands more than once — now held
by the Scotch, then by the English, until in 1409 when
the men of "Teviotdale rose and ejected the English,
who had held it for sixty-three years. To prevent it from
again falling into hostile hands, the castle was then
destroyed, the money for the work of destruction being
paid out of the ro^'al revenue, after the first proposal to
raise it by a tax of twopence upon each hearth in Scot-
land had been rejected. A part of the foundation was re-
moved when the prison was built. After the castle was
demolished, the town was defended by six bastille towers,
which have also disappeared. Other public buildings
are the Corn Exchange, built in 1860 by a company who
hold £2500 worth of stock, and used for sales, concerts,
lectures, exhibitions, etc. ; the Museum, which occupies
part of the Corn Exchange, and contains two pennons
said to have been captured by the weavers of Jedburgh
at Bannockburn and Killiecrankie, some pieces of the
old burgh cross, the iron ladle which the town hangman
was allowed at one time to dip into every sack of meal
or corn that came into the market, and a good collec-
tion of fossils. A Maison-Dieu which once existed in
Jedburgh has disappeared altogether, though it has left
traces of its existence in the name of the ' Maison-Dieu
acres,' given to a stretch of land, and in that of the
' Sick man's path, ' as a steep road is called which leads
from Friars-gate to Jedbank. The public park of Jed-
burgh, formerly part of the Virgin's glebe, is called the
Lothian Park, after the Jlarquis of Lothian, who charges
a merely nominal rent for the use of it. It is situated
between the Jed and the parish church.

The chief attraction of Jedburgh, however, is its
ruined abbey. In 1118 David I. founded a priory on
the banks of the Jed, and placed it in possession of
canons regular from the Abbey of St Quentin at Beau-
vais in France. In 1147 this priory was raised to the
dignity of an abbey, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and
the smaller building that had served for the former
became the nucleus of a more statelyTstructure. The
abbey, from its size and wealth, was able to rank with
the great abbeys of the period, and formed a suitable
pendant to the castle which stood near it. Its first
abbot, Osbert, died in 1174. The abbey was endowed
by David I. with the tithes of the two Jedworths, of
Langton, Nisbet, Crailing, etc. ; by Malcolm IV. with
the churches of Brandon and Grendon in Northampton-
shire, with some land and a fishery on the Tweed ; by
Ranulph de Soulis with the church of Doddington near
Brandon, and with the church in the vale of Liddel ;
and by William the Lyon and various barons with lands,
churches, houses, both in England and Scotland In 1220
a dispute that had lasted for twenty years between the
canons of Jedburgh and the Bishop of Glasgow was
ended in favour of the latter by an arbitration given in
the chapel at Nisber. The cause of the quarrel was the
prerogative which the bishop sought to exercise over the

329

JEDBURGH

canons, who resisted, but unsuccessfully. When John
Morel was abbot in 1285, Alexander III. was married to
Jolande, daughter of the Count of Dreux, in the Abbey
of Jedburgh, then probably almost entirely built. In
the wars between England and Scotland (1297-1300) it
suffered so severely, that the monks were unable to
inhabit it, and had to be billeted on other religious
houses. The disasters with which the 14th century
opened were made up for by a season of prosperity,
which extended onwards from 1360. By that time at
least the canons must have regained their gi-ound, as
they are discovered a few years later exporting wool
into England that had come from their own flocks. In
1377 Robert III. added to their possessions the hospital
of St Mary Magdalene at Rutherford, a few miles dis-
tant, under the condition that the canons should have
service regularly performed in the hospital chapel. The
order of EdwardjII. in 1328 to restore all the lands in
England belonging to Jedburgh Abbey may be noticed,
as one of its results was to compass the death of certain
canons who had gone south to claim lands belonging to
them. This order was, at the best, only partially obeyed.
In these years of border warfare no place was more sacred
than another— all suffered equally ; and Jedburgh Abbey,
from its proximity to England and its own commanding
situation, had to bear the brunt of many an onslaught.
In 1410, 1416, 1464, it was damaged by repeated attacks
of the English, though to what extent is not kno^vn ;
but in 1523 both town and abbey feU before the forces
of the Earl of Sm-rey on 23 Sept. The abbey was
especially difficult to capture. AVhen surrendered,
it was stripped of everything valuable, and then set on
fire. In 1544-45 the process of destruction was twice
repeated under Sir Ralph Eure (or Evers) and the Earl
of Hertford respectively. In 1559 Jedburgh Abbey was
suppressed, and its revenues went to the Crown. For
some j'ears it was left almost a roofless ruin. A
building, designed for the parish church, was afterwards
erected within the nave, roofed over at the level of the
triforium, and used as a place of worship up to 1875,
when a new church, built in excambion by the Marquis
of Lothian, was opened for public worship, and the
edifice within the abbey walls dispensed with. Steps
were forthwith taken to have it removed, so that the
ruin of the abbey can now be viewed 'clear of that
incubus upon its lovely proportions. '

In spite of its somewhat chequered fortune, Jedburgh
Abbey Church is still wonderfully entire. The out-
buildings, such as the treasury, library, scriptorium, re-
fectory, common hall, etc., have disappeared, as well as
part of the aisles, the eastern termination of the choir,
and the S transept ; but the centre of the nave,
central tower, N transept, and the two western bays
of the choir still remain to furnish a fair idea of the
proportions of the church. It has been declared ' the
most perfect and beautiful example of the Saxon and
Early Gothic in Scotland,' but, like most buildings that
have been added to from time to time, it shows different
styles of architecture. The choir, which is Early Nor-
man, is undoubtedly the oldest part. In it, the lower
arches spring from corbels in the sides of the round
pillars, and not from capitals, an arrangement followed
also in Oxford Cathedral. Jedburgh Abbey may be
said to resemble those of Dryburgh and Kelso in the
shortness of its transepts. The present N transept, 68
feet in length, extended in the 14th century, furnishes a
good example of Decorated work, and was for long used
as the burial-place of the Kerrs of Fernieherst, a family
once famous in Border history, and now represented by
the House of Lothian. The great N window is divided
by tliree mullions, and shows some fine tracery. At the
point where the nave and choir intersect the transepts,
rises a tower, 33 feet square and 86 high, though loftier
at one time. It was divided into two stories, the upper
of which once contained a clock and peal of bells. The
oldest part of the tower, the N piers, is Early Normau.
It was restored at the end of the 15th century. Tiie
nave, 129 feet long, and 27 .i broad, is a fine specimen of
'the transition from the Transition to the developed Early
330

JEDBURGH

English. ' ' There are on each side three tiers of arches
possessing a grace and lightness and beauty of general
outline much and deservedly admired. The basement
storey consists of clustered pillars, which support deeply-
moulded pointed arches ; in the triforium are semi-
circular arches, subdivided by pointed ones, whilst the
clerestory is a detached arcade of thirty-six arches, also
pointed, the wall behind every alternate two being
pierced for windows. In the lower storeys, the abacus,
with only one exception, is square, as in all the older
work, but in the clerestory the square edges are cut
oft', indicating the desire that had set in for new forms.'
The total length of the building is 235 feet over the
walls, and 218 within the walls. Sir Gilbert Scott has
declared the great western door and the S door, which
leads from the S aisle into the cloisters, to be ' perfect
gems of refined Norman of the highest class and most ar-
tistic finish.' The former, almost 14 J feet high and
rather more than 6 broad, is semicircular in form, deeply
recessed, and elaborately carved. Above it is a large
window nearly 19 feet in height and 6 in breadth,
while an exquisite wheel-window has been placed near
the top of the gable. The S door, which had become
rather dilapidated, was copied at the expense of Lord
Lothian, and the copy, most successfully made, has been
inserted in the nave not fiir from the original. It is
adorned Avith human figiu-es, grotesque animals, and
foliage. This doorway is unrivalled in Scotland, so
symmetrical are its proportions, so fine its workmanship,
so delicate the carvings executed upon it. Jedburgh
Abbey thus shows no fewer than three or four diflerent
styles of architecture, from which it is easy to refer each
part to its proper period. The combination which now
exists is sufticient to make it one of the most interesting
and beautiful ruins in Scotland, while the care that has
been expended upon it is well repaid by the improve-
ments which have been efifected. A convent of Francis-
can friars, founded in 1513, but which has totally dis-
appeared, may be mentioned, because in it lived and
died Adam Bell, author of The Wheel of Time. As
an instance of the influence of the monks may be noted
the great number of places with ecclesiastical names, as
Temple Gardens, Friars' Wynd, Friars-gate, Canon-gate.
Considering its size, Jedburgh is well supplied with
places of worship and ample school-accommodation.
The parish church, as already mentioned, was erected
by tlie Marquis of Lothian, and opened for service in
April 1875. Built in the Early English style, of stone
from the Eildon Hills, and having freestone facings, it
is seated for 1200 persons, and was erected at a cost of
£11,000. The Free church, near it, and built in the
same style, has its appearance marred by the absence of
a spire. It was erected in 1853, cost £3000, and holds
650 persons. St John's Episcopal church, founded in
1843, and built at a cost of £4000, can contain 200
people. It stands at the foot of Friars-gate, has a beauti-
ful pulpit, altar, and font of Caen stone, and is one of
the extremely few Episcopalian churches in Scotland
with a ' l}'ch ' (corpse) gate. Besides these, there are
two United Presbyterian churches, a Roman Catholic
chapel, and Evangelical Union church, the two last
being small and unpretentious buildings. The High
Street United Presbyterian church was erected in 1818
at a cost of £3500, and with accommodation for about
850 persons ; the Blackfriars United Presbyterian
church was also built in 1818 at nearly the same cost,
but with 800 sittings. The Grammar school of Jed-
burgh was founded about the middle of the 15th cen-
tury by Bishop TurnbuU of Glasgow. Some doubt
exists as to its precise original location, which was,
however, near the SE corner of the Abbey tower, from
which place it was removed in 1751. James Thomson,
author of the Scasoiis, and Samuel Rutherford, the
well-known Scottish divine, were educated at it. It
passed, in terms of tlie Education Act of 1872, to the
landward, and was afterwards purchased by the burgh,
school board ; lias (1883) 153 scholars on its roll, £106
of teacliers' grant ; and is conducted by a rector, one
assistant, and a mistress. A new grammar school, to

JEDBURGH

cost from £4000 to £5000, with houses for the rector
and janitor, board-room, large playground, etc., is now
being built (1883). The sessional school in Castlegate,
estaljlished in 1851, has (1883) an attendance of 143
children, and £111 of grant. The town also contains
several private schools, as the Nest Academy, an infant
school, and an Episcopalian school. The last-named
has an average attendance of 163 children, and the
grant earned amounted to £150. The burgh school
board consists of 7 members. Jedburgh has numerous
clubs and institutions, as the dispensary, museum,
mechanics' institute, reading-room, young men's literary
association, clubs for angling, cricket, bowling, billiards,
etc. There is one public library belonging to the
Mechanics' Institute and two private libraries. Two
Saturday newspapers, the hiberalJcdburgh Gazette (1870)
and the Liberal-Conservative TeviotdaU Record (1855),
are published in the town.

In the unsettled times before the union of the two
crowns, Jedburgh was unable to embark upon any
industry that required security for its successful pro-
secution. During the period that lay between the
accession of James VI. of Scotland to the English
throne, and the final union of the two countries under
Queen Anne, Jedburgh shared in a very lucrative con-
traband trade, which arose from the unequal duties
levied on certain goods at the custom-houses of England
and Scotland. When this was done away with, its
prosperity .seemed almost endangered, and would, in
all likelihood, have been crippled, had not the manu-
facture of woollen goods been introduced. In Jedburgh,
which was one of the first towns to take up this
industry, a spinning-mill was started in 1728, but
was not successful. Others were set up in 1738,
1745, 1786, 1806 ; and in 1883 there are 4 mills work-
ing, which employ about 300 persons, and turn oiit
goods worth nearly £66,000 per annum. The chief
articles made are woollen tweeds and blankets. Jed-
burgh has alsoaniron-foundrj^ engineer-works, breweries,
tanneries, and 2 auction marts. It was for a long time
famous for its pears, apples, plums, — once ' cried ' in the
streets of London, where the ' Jethart pears ' were a
favourite fruit, and a source of considerable income to
their growers.

Several of the chief Scottish banks have branches at
Jedburgh — the Ilo}^al, British Linen, Commercial,
National, and Bank of Scotland. There is also a branch
of the National Security Savings' Bank, numerous
agencies for fire and life insurance companies, and a
head post office, with telegraph and money order office,
and savings' bank attached. The best hotels in the
town are the Spread Eagle and the Royal.

There is a weekly grain market at Jedburgh every
Tuesday ; there are cattle markets on the third Thurs-
day of each month from January to May ; and horse
and cattle fairs. The Rood-day fair on 25 Sept. was
formerly of great importance, but is now of little con-
sequence. The magistrates of Jedburgh have jurisdic-
tion over the St James' Eair, held on 5 Aug. near Kelso.
Hiring fairs for servants are held shortly before Whitsun-
day and Martinmas, and an annual fair for the hiring of
hinds and cottars is held in March.

The earliest date that can be fixed for the corporation
of Jedburgh is 1296, that being the year in which the
to^vnsmen and it took the oath of allegiance to Edward
I. Owing to none of the council records going further
back than 1619, and the destruction of the old charters
in one or other of the Border wars, it is impossible to
determine the time at which the town was founded, or
that at which it became a royal burgh. The evidence
is in favour of an early erection, perhaps as early as the
reign of David I. In 1556 Queen Mary gave a charter
to "the town which confirmed those that had preceded
it, gave great power to the magistrates, and ample
privileges to the burgesses. In 1737 and 1767 the
burgh w^as deprived of its magistrates, at the latter date
owing to misconduct at a parliamentary election. The
government of Jedburgh is conducted by a provost, 3
bailies, a dean of guUd, a treasurer, and 9 councillors.

Seal of Jedburgh.

JEDBURGH

The magistrates act as commissioners of police. At one
time the corporation had property in lands, houses, mills,
which yielded a yearly rental
of £500, but which was sold in
1845, to defray the debts in-
curred by the burgh in a law-
suit. As a result this income
has dwindled away to nearly
nothing, amounting in 1882 to
no more than £31. Jedburgh
had at one time eight incor-
porated trades, with the sole
right of working for the in-
habitants within the burgh.
These were the fleshers,
glovers, hammermen, masons,

shoemakers, tailors, weavers, wrights, with a deacon at
the head of each.

The sheriff court meets at Jedburgh every Monday
and Thursday during session, and a small debt court is
held on the third Thursday of each month during ses-
sion, and, in vacation, on such days as the sheriff
appoints. Courts for summary and jury trials, as well
as justice of the peace courts, are held as often as
required. The court of general Cjuarter sessions meets
on the first Tuesday of JMarch, May, and August, and on
the last Tuesday of October ; and the Lords of Justiciary
and Lords Commissioners hold courts at Jedburgh in
the spring and autumn for the south-eastern circuit,
which includes the counties of Roxburgh, Berwick, and
Selkirk. The police force of the burgh is amalgamated
with that of the county, an arrangement which has
proved satisfactory. Jedburgh unites with Haddington,
Dunbar, North Berwick, and Lauder in sending a mem-
ber to parliament. The parliamentary and the muni-
cipal constituency numbered 406 and 480 in 1883, when
the annual value of real property amounted to £12,893,
against £9303 in 1864. Pop. of the parliamentary and
police burgh (1841) 3277, (1851) 3615, (1861) 3428, (1871)
3321, (1881) 3402, of whom 1800 were females, and 2432
were in the royal burgh. Houses (1881) 753 inhabited,
25 vacant, 1 building.

Jedburgh is mentioned first in the 9th century, when
it formed part of a gift from Bishop Egfrid to the See
of Lindisfarne. Some have asserted that the original
town stood 1^ mile further up the stream than the
present town does, but this is doubtful. The name
Jedburgh is spelt in as many as eighty- four different
waj-s, the oldest of which is probably Geddewrd, while
Jedworth (Jed-town) is found in 1147. In common
speech, the town is still called Jethart, which is less
corrupt than Jedburgh. About 1097 Jedburgh became
a burgh and royal domain, o\ving its rise to the import-
ance which it assumed under David I., partly to its
naturally strong position, and partly to the shelter
afforded by its castle on the Jed. David I., Malcolm
IV., William the L3'ou, Alexander II., and Alexander
III. resided in Jedburgh from time to time. The town
suffered severely in the Wars of the Succession. In 1297,
to retaliate for damages done to Hexham, Sir Richard
Hastings led a force against it, and devastated the
abbey. The men of Teviotdale rose in 1409, recaptured
the castle which the English had held for sixty-three
years, and destroyed it. The history of Jedburgh for a
period of years from this point is simply a succession of
attacks upon it by the English, and defences of it by
the Scots, who were generally worsted in spite of the
gallant resistance they always made. In 1513 the town
was taken by the Earl of Surrey, and in 1547 it was
occupied by part of the army, led into Scotland by the
Duke of Somerset. After this last attack. Lord Dacre
wrote to Wolsey in the following language which needs
no comment: — 'Little or notliing is left upon the
frontiers of Scotland, without it be part of aid houses
whereof the thak and coverings are taken away, by
reason whereof they cannot be brint (burned).' In
1556 Queen Mary held a justice court at Jedburgh, with
the object of quieting the borders by removing some of
the turbulent chiefs. She was detained in it for a few

331

JEDBURGH

weeks by an illness which almost ended fatally, and it
is said that in the after-troubles of her reign she was
often heard to exclaim : ' Would that I had died at
Jedburgh.' In 1571, when the country was divided
into King's men and Queen's men, the citizens sided
with the King, and held the town against the Lords of
Buccleuch and Fernieherst, who marched upon it,
desirous to chastise the burghers who had affronted a
herald sent on the Queen's behalf. Thanks to the
speedy action of the Regent Moray in sending Lord
Ruthven with reinforcements, the citizens were able to
stand out against the attack made upon them by Buc-
cleuch and Fernieherst. The Raid of the Redeswire
(1575) began in a dispute between the wardens of the
middle marches about the person of Henry Robson, a
noted free-lance, who, the Scottish warden demanded,
should be given up for execution, while the English
warden alleged that he had escaped. Such disputes
seldom stopped at words, and, after an interchange of
insults, the men of Tynedale began the fray by shoot-
ing their arrows at the Scots. The fighting became
general, and the Scots were being worsted, when the
men of Jedburgh, led by their provost, marched upon
the field and turned the tide of battle. This was the
occasion on which

' Bauld Rutherfurd, he was fu' stout,
Wi' a' his nine sons him about,
He led the town o' Jedburgh out,
All bravely fought that day.'

This was the last of the almost innumerable engage-
ments that took place on the borders, and in it the war-
cry of the burghers rose for the last time above the din
of battle : —

' Then raise the slogan with ane shout,
Fye Tynedaill to it ! Jedbrugh 's here.'

Here too may be mentioned the burghers' ikvourite
weapon — the 'Jeddart staff.' It was a stout pole 7 or
8 feet long, with an iron head shaped either as a hook
or hatchet. The ' Jeddart axe ' is also mentioned, and
both must have been formidable weapons. The oldest
form of the to\^'nsmen's war-cry is ' A Jedworth, a Jed-
worth ; ' but the form ' Jethart 's here ' also existed, while
that of 'A Jeddart, a Jeddart' is probably corrupt.
' Jeddart Justice ' is in Scotland what ' Lidford Justice '
is in England. It means ' hanging first and trying
afterwards, ' and arose first in 1608 from the summary
way in which Lord Home disposed of a number of cap-
tured freebooters. When Charles Stuart (The Pre-
tender) was marching to England in 1745, he, along
with part of his army, passed through Jedburgh, where
he lodged in a house in Castlegate, as noted above. At
the time of the Reform agitation, a meeting was held
at Jedburgh in 1831, at which Sir Walter Scott, who
was present, spoke against the projected reform, and in
consequence met with a most unfavourable reception.
Jeffrey, however, explains that it was the opinions and
not the man that met with disapproval. On the 23
Aug. 1869 Queen Victoria visited the town.

Could those who inhabited Jedburgh in the 14th and
15th centuries observe their town and its present occu-
pants, they would be unable to recognise the former,
and the latter would seem strangely different from them-
selves. The Jedburgh that was ])illaged and burned
again and again during the Middle Ages (though said
by the Earl of Surrey in 1523 to have been well built
and to contain many fair houses) must have seemed
insignificant and mean when compared with the present
town, in spite of its noble abbey and almost impregnable
castle. Its then inhabitants were almost as much men
of war as of peace, ready to share in every foray, so that
it was commonly said that no border skirmish ever took
place without the cry of 'A Jedworth, a Jedworth'
being heard in it. The present town is neat, clean, and
thriving, and its inhabitants prosperous and quiet.

Jedburgh has furnished its (juota of famous men and

women to the bead-roll of distinguished Scotsmen and

Scotswomen. Tlie chief of these are Mary Somer-

Tille, Sir David Brewster, Dr Somerville, and James

332

JEDBURGH

Bell. Mary Somerville, 'The Rose of Jedwood,' was
born at Jedl)urgh Manse on 26 Dec. 1780, and
died at Naples in 1872. She wrote The Connection of
the Physical Sciences, Physical Geography, 3Iicroscopic
and Molecular Science, etc. Thomas Somerville, D. D. ,
uncle and father-in-law of the above, was born at
Hawick in 1741, and died at Jedburgh 1830. He was
the author of a History of Great Britain in the reign of
Queen Anne, and a work entitled My own Life and
Times. Sir David Brewster, born in 1781, died in
1868, published many scientific treatises, and invented
the kaleidoscope and lenticular stereoscope. James
Bell (1769-1833) wrote books on history and geography.
The parish of Jedburgh contains also the villages or
hamlets of Bonjedward, 2 miles N of the town ; Ulston,
If NE ; Lanton, 3 WNW ; and Edgerston, 7i SSE.
It comprises the ancient parishes of Jedworth, Old Jed-
worth, and Upper Crailing; and consists of two sections,
southern and northern, separated by a strip of South-
dean, 5^ furlongs broad at the narrowest. The southern
or old Jedworth section, containing Edgerston hamlet,
is bounded NE and E by Oxnam, S by Northumberland,
and SW and W by Southdean ; and, having an utmost
length and breadth of 6| and 4f miles, contains 6604§
acres. The northern section, consisting of Jedworth in
the W and Upper Crailing in the E, is bounded N by
Crailing and Eckford, E by Hounam, SE by Oxnam, S
by Southdean, SW by Hobkirk, W by Bedrule, and
NW by Ancrum. Its utmost length, from NNE to
SSW, is 7| miles ; and its width varies between | mile
and 6§ miles. The area of the entire parish is 22,670|
acres, of which 135^ are water. Jed Watep., after
tracing 6§ miles of the Southdean and Oxnam boun-
daries, winds 5^ miles northward through the interior
till it falls into the Teviot, which itself meanders 4f
miles east-north-eastward on or close to the Ancrum
and Crailing border. Along the Teviot, in the extreme
N, the surface declines to 170 feet above sea-level,
thence rising to 523 feet near Monklaw, 705 near Tud-
hope, 923 at Lanton Hill, 1095 at *Dunian Hill, 1110
at *Black Law, 957 at *Watch Knowe, 700 near West
Cottage, and 741 near Kersheugh, where asterisks mark
those summits that culminate just within Bedrule
parish. The southern or detached section, which sinks
along Jed Water to from 530 to 480 feet, attains 829
near Edgerston church, 985 at Hareshaw Knowe, 1358
at Browndean Laws, 1173 at Hophills Nob, 1469 at
Arks Edge, and 1542 at Leap Hill — green summits
these of the Cheviots. The rocks include much trap,
both in mountain masses and in valley-dykes ; but they
mainly consist of the stratified orders, from the Silurian
to carboniferous, and in many parts exhibit such inter-
positions as have furnished subject of interestiug study
to both geologists and economists. White and red
sandstone, of excellent quality, has been worked in
several quarries ; good limestone is pretty plentiful ;
coal has been bored for at various periods from 1660 to
1798 ; and a bed of iron ore, 3 feet thick, occurs not far
from the town, near which are also two chalybeate
springs. Of these Tudhope Well has been successfully
tried for scorbutic and rheumatic disorders. The soil,
in some places a stifiish clay, in others a mixture of
clay with sand or gravel, in the valley of the Teviot and
along the lower reaches of the Jed is a fertile loam, and
on the higher grounds is very various. A great natural
forest, called Jed Forest, formerly covered nearly all the
surface of both sections of the parish, together with all
Southdean, and parts of contiguous parishes ; and re-
mains of it, to the extent of many hundred acres, were
cut down only in the course of last century. Two sur-
vivors are one beautiful and vigorous oak, the ' King of
the Woods,' near Fernieherst Castle, with a trunk 43
feet high and 17 in girth at 4 feet above ground ; and
another, the 'Capon 'Tree,' 1 mile nearer Jedburgh, 'a
short-stemmed, but very wide-spreading oak, with a
circumference at the base of 24| feet' {Trans, llighl.
and Ag. Soc., 1881, pp. 206, 207). Fully a tenth of the
entire area is still occujjied by orchards, groves, and
plantations ; a largo proportion of the uplands, especi-

JEDFOOT BRIDGE

ally in the southern section, is disposed in sheepwalks ;
and the rest of the land is all in a state of high cultiva-
tion. An ancient military road goes over the Dunian
from Ancrum Bridge towards the town, 2 miles from
which a Roman causeway, paved with whinstone, and
almost entire, passes along the north-eastern district.
A Roman camp, seemingly about 160 yards each way, is
near Monklaw ; a well-defined circular camp, 180 feet
in diameter, with ramparts nearly 20 feet high, is at
Scarsburgh ; remains of a famous camp, formed by
Douglas for the defence of the Borders during Bruce's
absence in Ireland, crow'n the top of a bank at Lintalee ;
and vestiges of other camps are at Feruieherst, How-
dean, Camptown, and Swinnie. Peel -houses, towers,
and other minor military strengths, appear to have
been numerous ; but only one at Lanton, and the ruins
of another at Timpandean, are now extant. Of several
artificial caves, excavated in rock, on the banks of the
Jed, the two largest, those of Lintalee and Hundalee,
disappeared through landslips of 1S66 and 1881. Ves-
tiges of a chapel, founded in 845, are at Old Jedward,

5 miles SSE of the town ; and verdant mounds indicate
the sites or the graveyards of others in various places.
Coins of Canute, Edred, Edwy, Ethelred, Edward I.,
Edward III., and later kings, both Scottish and Eng-
lish, together with ancient medals, have been found, in
almost incredible numbers, at Stewartfield, at Bongate,
at Swiunie, near the abbey, and in other localities. A
chief antiquity, Ferniehekst Castle, is noticed sepa-
rately, as also are the mansions of Bonjedward,
Edgerstox, Hartrigge, Huxthill, Laxglee, and
Lintalee. Eight proprietors hold each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 21 of between £1C0 and
£500, 35 of from £50 to £100, and 80 of from £20 to
£50. Including most of Edgerston quoad sacra parish,
Jedburgh is the seat of a presbytery in the synod of
Merse and Teviotdale ; the living is worth £523. Two
landward public schools, Lanton and Pleasants, with
respective accommodation for 100 and 80 children, had
(1881) an average attendance of 53 and 49, and grants
of £37, 19s. and £48, 8s. 6d. Landward valuation
(1864) £22,108, 15s. lOd., (1882) £24,753, 13s. Pop.
of entire parish (1801) 3834, (1831) 5647, (1861) 5263,
(1871) 5214, (ISSl) 5147, of whom 4917 were in Jed-
burgh ecclesiastical parish. — Orel. Sur., sh. 17, 1864.

The presbj'tery of Jedburgh comprises the civil
parishes of Ancrum, Bedrule, Cavers, Crailing, Eckford,
Hawick, Hobkirk, Hounam, Jedburgh, Kirkton, Minto,
Oxnam, Southdean, Teviothead, and Wilton, and the
quoad sacra parishes of Edgerston, Hawick St Mary's,
and Hawick St John's. Pop. (1871) 26,267, (1881)
30,769, of whom 5202 were communicants of the Church
of Scotland in 1878. — There is also a Free Church pres-
bytery of Jedburgh, with 3 churclies at Hawick, and

6 at Ancrum, Castleton, Crailing, Denholm, Jedburgh,
and Wolflee, which 9 churches together had 2253 mem-
bers in 1883.

See pp. 260-268 of Dorothy Wordsworth's Tour in
Scotland (ed. by Princ. Shairp, 1874) ; James Watson's
Jedburgh Abbey (Edinb. 1877) ; and an article in the
Saturday Hevieiv (1882).

Jedfoot Bridge, a railway station in the N of Jed-
burgh parish, Roxburghshire, 1| mile N by E of tlie
Jedburgh terminus.

Jed Forest. See Jedburgh.

Jed Water, a small river of Southdean, Oxnam, and
Jedburgh parishes, Roxburghshire. It rises, as Raven
Burn, at an altitude of 1500 feet, on the western slope
of Carliu Tooth (1801 feet), one of the Cheviots, 1 mile
from the English Border ; and thence winds 21 1 miles
north-by-eastward, till, after a descent of 1325 feet, it
falls into the Teviot, at a point f mile below Mounteviot
House. Its tributaries are numerous but small. Its
basin or vale is a kind of broad tumulated plain, half
engirdled by the Cheviots and their offsets ; looks, in
the view from Carter Fell, surpassingly beautiful ; and,
even as seen in detail, exliibits many a close scene, so
full of character, as to have fired the muse of Thomson,
Burns, Leydeu, and many a minor poet. An intelligent

JOHN 0* GROAT'S HOUSE

observer, indeed, sees little in it to compete with the
basins of the Tweed, the Tay, and some other large
])icturesque Scottish rivers ; yet within the brief dis-
tance of 2 or 3 miles, especially in the parts immediately
above the town of Jedburgh, he will survey, though on
a small scale, more of the elements of fine landscape
tlian during a whole day's ride in the most favourite
Scottish haunts of tourists. The rockiness of the river's
bed, the briskness of its current, the pureness of its
waters, the endless combinations of slope and precipice,
of haugh and hillock, of verdure and escarpment, of
copse and crag, along and around its banks, produce
many a scene of picturesqueness and romance. Its
waters are well stocked with trout of good size and high
character ; but, in consequence of the intricacy and
woodedness of the banks, they can rarely be angled
without much skill and patience. — Ord. Sur., sh. 17,
1864.

Jemimaville or Jamima, a village at the mutual border
of Resolis and Cromarty parishes, Cromartyshire, on the
southern shore of the Cromarty Firth, 3 miles SSE of
Invergorden and 4| WSW of Cromarty. Fairs are held
on the first Tuesday of April, the first Wednesday of
August, and the last Tuesday of October. An urn of
very antique form was found, about 1830, in a neigh-
bouring earthen tumulus. — 07x1. Sur., sh. 94, 1878.

Jerviston, an estate, with a mansion, in Both well
parish, Lanarkshire, on the right bank of South Calder
Water, 1^ mile NXE of Motherwell.

Jerviswood, an estate in Lanark parish, Lanarkshire,
on the left bank of Mouse Water, 1^ mile N by E of the
town. By the Livingstouns it was sold in the middle
of the 17th century to George Baillie, whose son,
Robert Baillie of Jerviswood, entitled sometimes the
' Scottish Sydney,' was hanged at Edinburgh for alleged
high-treason in 1684, and whose sixth descendant,
George Baillie of Jerviswood and Mellerstain, in 1858
succeeded his second cousin as tenth Earl of Hadding-
ton.—Ord Sur., sh. 23, 1865. See Tyxixghame.

Jesus, Island of. See Issay.

Jock's Lodge, a village in South Leith parish, Edin-
burghsliire, on the road from Edinburgh to Portobello,
adjacent to the S side of the locomotive depot of the
North British railway, If mile by tram E by N of the
General Post Ofiice, Edinburgh. Standing on low
ground, at the NE base of Arthur's Seat, immediately
above the subsidence into meadow, and surrounded with
a rich variety of pleasant scenery, it extends somewhat
stragglingly i mile along the road ; consists chiefly of
a spacious cavalry barrack and two lines of dwelling-
houses ; and has a post office, under Edinburgh, with
money order, savings' bank, and telegraph departments,
a soldiers' home, and a police station. The barrack, on
its N side, was built of Craigmillar stone in 1793 ; com-
prises a quadrangidar, enclosed area (500 x 300 feet) ;
contains accommodation for a regiment of _ cavalry ;
and includes a neat, comparatively recent. Episcopalian
chapel. It bears the name of Piershill, after Colonel
Piers, who occupied a vUla on the exact site of the
officers' quarters in the time of George II., and com-
manded a regiment of cavalry then stationed in Edin-
burgh. The name ' Jokis Lodge ' occurs as early as 1650,
liutis of uncertain origin. Pop. , inclusive of Restalrig,
(1871) 1647, (1881), 1266, of whom 429 were military.—
Ord. Sur., sh. 32, 1857.

Jock's Thorn. See Kilmaurs.

John o' Groat's House, a quondam octagonal domicile
in Canisbay parish, NE Caithness, on the flat downy
shore of the Pentland Firth, If mile W of Duncansbay
Head and 18 miles N of Wick. Its legend is told as
follows -.—During the reign of James IV. , a Lowlander
of the name of Groat— or, according to some versions,
a Dutchman of the name of John de Groot— arrived
along with his brother in Caithness, bearing a letter
from the King, which recommended them to the gentle-
men of the county. They procured land at this remote
spot, settled, and became the founders of families.
When the race of Groat had increased to the number of
eif'ht different branches, the amity which had hitherto

333

JOHNSHAVEN

JOHNSTONE

characterised them was unfortunately interrupted. One
night, in the course of some festivity, a quarrel arose as
to who had the best right to sit at the head of the table
next the door ; high words ensued, and the ruin of the
whole famil}', by their dissension, seemed at hand. In
this emergency, however, one of them, John, rose, and
having stilled their wrath by soft language, assured
them that at their next meeting he would settle the
point at issue to the satisfaction of all. Accordingly,
he erected upon the extreme point of their territory an
octagonal building, having a door and window at every
side, and furnished with a table of exactly the same
shape ; and when the next family festival was held, he
desired each of his kin to enter at his own door, and
take the corresponding seat at the table. The perfect
equality of this arrangement satisfied all, and their
former good humour was thus restored. There are
many ditferent versions of the above story, but all
bearing a resemblance to the well-known legend of the
Knights of the Round Table. One version represents
John, the ingenious deviser of the octagonal house, to
have been the ferryn»an from Canisbay to Orkney. The
site of the house is only marked by an outline on the
turf; but in 1875-76 a good hotel was built hard by,
with an appropriate octagonal tower, which commands
a magnificent view. The only European cowry known
(Cyprcea Europea) is cast up here by the tide, along
with quantities of other beautiful shells, and bears the
name of 'John o' Groat's buckie. ' — Orel. Sur., sh. 116,
1878.

Johnshaven, a fishing village in Benholm parish,
Kincardineshire, with a station on the Bervie branch
of the Forth British, 4| miles SSW of Bervie and 9^
NNE of Montrose. Standing upon a rocky reach of
coast, it has a post office under Fordoun, with money
order, savings' bank, and telegraph departments, 3 in-
sui'ance agencies, 3 inns, 3 friendly societies, coastguard
and police stations, 59 fishing boats and 120 fisher men
and boys, a brewery, a sailcloth factory, a Free church,
and a U.P. church. A public school, enlarged in 1877,
with accommodation for 282 children, had (1881) an
average attendance of 207, and a grant of £171, 14s,
Pop. (1831) 1027, (1841) 1172, (1861) 1089, (1871) 1077,
(1881) 1041. Houses (1881) 263 inhabited, 27 vacant.
—Orel. Sur., sh. 57, 1868.

Johnston. See Laurencekirk.

Johnstone, a parish in Annandale, Dumfriesshire,
whose church stands on the right bank of the Annan,
7 furlongs NW of Dinwoodie station on the Caledonian,
this being 6 miles NNW of Lockerbie, under which
there is a post office of Johnstone Bridge. Comprising
the ancient parish of Johnstone and parts of those of
UuMGREE and Garvald, it is bounded N by Kirk-
jiatrick-Juxta, E by Wamphray and Applegarth, S by
Lochmaben, and SW and W by Kirkmichael. Its
utmost length, from N to S, is 7 J miles ; its breadth
varies between IJ and 5§ miles ; and its area is 13,607:^
acres, of which 116J are water. The Annan winds 6-^
miles south-by-westward along or near to all the eastern
boundary ; and Kinnel Water 9 miles southward along
the Kirkpatrick-Juxta boundary, across the western
interior, and along or near to the Kirkmichael boun-
dary, till it passes off into Lochmaben on its way to the
Annan. In the extreme S the surface declines to 195
feet above sea-level, thence rising northward to 380 feet
near Blackburn, 490 near Williamson, and 749 near
Hazelbank, and north-north-westward, beyond Kinnel
Water, to 1076 at Hangingshaw Hill, and 1308 at
Minnygap Height. Red sandstone, jjrevailing for up-
wards of a mile from the southern boundary, has been
quarried on a small scale ; elsewhere eruptive rocks
predominate, but have little or no economical value ;
and lead ore exists in circumstances to have induced a
search for workable lodes, but has not answered expec-
tations. Alluvial soil, chielly dry loam or gravel,
covers the level tract along tlie Annan ; peat moss, ex-
tending over some hundreds of acres, occurs in other
parts ; and the soil of much of the arable lands on the
slopes and hills is too poor to yield remunerative crops
834

of wheat. About three-sevenths of the entire area are
in tillage; woods cover some 1550 acres; and the rest
is either pastoral or waste. Dr Matthew Halliday and
Dr John Rogerson (1741-1823), successively first physi-
cians to the Empress Catherine of Russia, were natives
of Johnstone. LocHWOOD Castle, the chief antiquity,
and Raehills, the principal mansion, are noticed
separately; and J. J. Hope-Johnstone, Esq., is sole
proprietor. Johnstone is in the presbytery of Loch-
maben and synod of Dumfries ; the living is worth
£210. The parish church, built in 1733 and enlarged
in 1818, contains 500 sittings. Johnstone and AVam-
phray Free church stands 2| miles N by E ; and John-
stone public, Cogrieburn, and Goodhope schools, with
respective accommodation for 110, 58, and 73 children,
had (1881) an average attendance of 96, 45, and 59, and
grants of £77, 12s., £46, 10s., and £53, 2s. 6d. Valua-
tion (1860) £5807, (1883) £8380, 14s. 8d. Pop. (1801)
740, (1831) 1234, (1861) 1149, (1871) 1089, (1881) 1002.
—Ord. Sur., sh. 10, 1864.

Johnstone, a town, quoael sacra parish, and registra-
tion district in the extreme W of the Abbey parish of
Paisley, and near the centre of the county of Renfrew.
The parish was not erected till 1834, when there was a
population of over 5000 ; but as early as 1792 a church
had been built, and in 1794 (when the population was
only about 1500) the building was ready for use, and
bounds were perambulated and assigned, within which
the minister of the Johnstone church had ecclesiastical
charge. The town, which is a police burgh, and has
now slightly outgrown the limits of the original parish,
stands on the E bank of the Black Cart, and a short
distance W of the road from Glasgow to Ayr by Paisley.
It i? by rail 3* miles W by S of Paisley, 10^ W by S of
Glasgow, 14 SE by E of Greenock, and 254 N by E of
Ayr. It has a station on the Glasgow and Ayr section
of the Glasgow and South- Western railway system, close
to the point where the branch turns oft' north-westward
to Greenock, and here was also formerly the western
terminus of the Glasgow, Paisley, and Ardrossan Canal,
which is now, however, in process of conversion into a
railway. The town was founded in 1781, the site at the
E end of a bridge over the Cart, known as ' the Brig o'
Johnstone,' having been previously occupied by a small
hamlet of only ten houses. The first houses aflbrded
accommodation to the hands employed at a large cotton-
mill, erected close by, and since then the place has, in
virtue of its position in the middle of a large mining
district, become a considerable industrial centre. The
mill was built, and the plan of the town laid out by the
proprietor of the estate of Johnstone, who was also
superior of the ground on which it stands, and it is to
his influence that the place owes its first start in pro-
sperity and its rapid rise, for in the first ten years of its
existence the population increased from about 50 to
about 1500. The plan was a regular one, the main
street (High Street) running almost E and W, and
being crossed at right angles by numerous minor streets,
while there are two squares — one Houston Square near
the centre of the town, and another, Ludovic Square, to
the S. The houses are substantial stone buildings, and
viewed from a distance the place has a remarkably airy
appearance, due in part to the spaciousness of the
streets, and in part to the number of pieces of open
garden -ground attached to the houses ; but on closer
inspection a good deal of the dinginess always associated
with manufactures becomes at once apparent. It in-
cludes the village suburl)s of Thorn and Overton to the
E. The principal industries in the burgh are extensive
foundries and machine works, a paper mill, and linen
thread works, while round it are scattered a large num-
ber of cotton mills, giving employment to from 3000
to 4000 hands. The police act has been adopted, and
the affairs of the burgh are managed by a senior magis-
trate, 2 junior magistrates, and 8 police commissioners.
The police Ibrce consists of 6 men, and a police court is
held on the first ilonday of every month. The com-
missioners have also had, since 1881, the charge of the
gas supply, as in that year the property and plant of

JOHNSTONE BRIDGE

the Gas Company were acquired by them at a cost of
£22,000. The works are at the N side of the burgh.
The parish church on the S side at the S end of Church
Street was built, as already noticed, between 1792 and
1794 as a chapel of ease at a cost of about £1400. It
contains 995 sittings. The spire was added in 1823,
and extensive repairs were made in 1877. The
Free church in William Street was built soon after
the Disruption. There are two United Presbyterian
churches, the one built in 1791 at a cost of about £900
and containing 616 sittings, and the other in 1829 at a
cost of about £1500 and containing 810 sittings. The
Episcopal church, dedicated to St John the Evangelist,
is a cruciform building with transepts and chancel. It
was erected in 1874 and enlarged in 1878, and contains
400 sittings. The Roman Catholic church, dedicated
to St Margaret, was originally erected in 1852, but
previous to 1882 underwent great alteration and recon-
struction after designs by Messrs Pugin & Pugin. It
has now a fine ceiling, handsome transept piers, a
magnificent chancel arch, and good stained glass win-
dows. It was reopened on 6 Nov. 1882, and has now
800 sittings. Educational affairs are managed by a
committee of the Abbey Parish School Board, and the
schools are Johnstone, Ludovic Square, Nethercraigs,
M'Dowall Street, Inkerraann, and Cardonald Street
public schools, with accommodation respectively for 600,
250, 140, 182, 210, and 135 scholars. A school is also
carried on in connection with St Margaret's Roman
Catholic church. Johnstone has a post office, with
money order, savings' bank, and telegraph depart-
ments, branches of the National, Royal, and Union
Banks, a National Security Savings' Bank, and
agencies of 28 insurance offices. The Royal Bank
occupies a handsome three-story block erected in 1873-
74. There are 8 inns. The newspapers are the John-
stone Gleaner, the Observer, and the Johnstone Herald,
all three published on Saturday. There is a Public
Hall and Working Men's Institute, with a news-
room and a hall, with accommodation for 1000, and
containing a fine organ presented by Mr Bousfield.
There are also Assembly Rooms, a temperance hall, a
Mechanics Institute, a friendly society, a branch of the
Bible society, a missionary society, a Young Men's
Christian Association, a volunteer corps (9th coy. 2d
battalion Renfrewshire), and an Agiicultural Society
which holds a cattle show annually on the Friday of
Glasgow Fair week (see Glasgow). A horse fair is
held on the first Friday of January, and a general fair
on the Thursday after the second Monday of July. The
fast days fall on the Fridays before the first Saturday
in April and in October. Johnstone Castle, an elegant
modern mansion, stands within a large well-wooded
park, 1 mile S by E of the town. Its owner, George
Ludovic Houstoun, Esq. (b. 1846 ; sue. 1862), holds
1841 acres in the shire, valued at £2898 per annum.
MiLLiKEN House, a building in the Grecian style, is 1 J
mile to the AV. The parish is in the presbytery of
Paisley and the synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; its minister's
stipend is £400. The municipal constituency numbered
2000 in 1883, when the annual value of real property
within the burgh was £27,150, whilst the revenue,
including assessments, amounted to £1633 in 1882.
Pop. of town (1811) 3647, (1831) 5617, (1861) 6404,
(1871) 7538, (1881) 9267, of whom 4846 were females ;
of parish (1871) 8588, (1881) 9201. Houses in town
(1881) 1872 inhabited, 121 vacant, 25 building.— Ord
Sur., sh. 30, 1866.

Johnstone Bridge. See Johnstone, Dumfriesshire.

Johnstounburn, a mansion in Humbie parish, SW
Haddingtonshire, on the left bank of Humbie Water,
2J miles NE of Blackshiels. Its owner, Archibald
Broun, Esq. (b. 1816 ; sue. 1830), holds 456 acres in the
shire, valued at £828 per annum. — Ord. Sur.,^\\. 33, 1863.

Joppa. See Portobello.

Joppa, a village in Coylton parish, Ayrshire, 5| miles
E by S of Ayr.

Jordan or Pow Bum, a rivulet of St Cuthbert's and
Duddingston parishes, Edinburghshire, rising upon the

JURA

northern slope of Craiglockhart Hill, and running 5J
miles east-by-northward, along the valley immediately
S of Morningside, Grange, and Newington, to a con-
fluence with the Braid Burn at a point I mile S by E of
Duddingston village. At Newington its channel was
bricked over in 1882 ; but the Jordan should ever be
kept in memory by the charming chapter concerning it
in Sir Thomas Dick Lauder's Scottish Rivers (1874).

Jordanhill, a village near the NE border of Renfrew
parish, Renfrewshire, within 9 furlongs of the N bank
of the Clyde, and 2J miles WSAV of Maryhill. The
Jordanhill estate, extending into the Lanarkshire sec-
tion of Govan parish, comprises only 293 acres, but has
a value of £4220 per annum, including £3000 for its
abundant coal, which is worked by the^Monkland Iron
and Steel Co.— Ord. Sur., sh. 30, 1866.

Jordanstone House. See Alyth.

Juniper Green, a village in Colinton parish, Edin-
burghshire, on a high bank above the left side of the
Water of Leith, with a station on the Balerno loop-line
(1874) of the Caledonian railway, 1 mile ENE of Currie
and 5i miles SW of Edinburgh. It has a post office
under Currie, and two public schools ; consists in great
measure of villas and pretty cottages ; and, with
charming environs, including a long reach of the pictur-
esque dell of the Water of Leith, is a favourite summer
retreat of families from Edinburgh. A new Free church,
erected in 1880 at a cost of £3000, is in the Gothic
style of the 13th century, and contains 620 sittings.
Pop. (1831) 338, (1861) 531, (1871) 716, (1881) 1018.—
Ord. Sicr., sh. 32, 1857.

Jura (Scand. deor-oe, ' deer island '), an island and a
parish in Argyllshire. One of the southern or Islay
group of the Hebrides, the island extends north-north-
eastward, from within | mile of Islay to within J mile
of Scarba, and lies opposite Knapdale and the southern
extremity of Lorn, at distances decreasing from 12 to
2^ miles, being separated from Islay by the Sound of
Islay, from Knapdale and Lorn by the Sound of Jura,
and from Scarba by the Gulf of Corrievrechan. Its
utmost length is 28 miles ; and its width increases
generally south-south-westward from less than 3 to 8§
miles ; but towards the middle it contracts to | mile,
being all but bisected by Loch Tarbert, a long narrow
arm of the sea, which opens from the W. It communi-
cates with other Hebrides and with the mainland by the
Clyde steamers to Islay and to Oban ; maintains ferries
from Feolin in the S to Islay, from Lagg near the
middle of the E coast to Keills in Knapdale, and from
a place in the N to Craignish in Lorn ; and at Craig-
house has a post office under Greenock, with money
order and savings' bank departments, at Lagg another
post office, an inn, and a cattle fair on the last Friday
of July, and at Small Isles another fair on the Friday
after the last Tuesday of June. From end to end ex-
tends a ridge of bleak and rugged mountains, sum-
mits of which to the N of Loch Tarbert are Clach-
bhein (912 feet), Ben Garrisdale (1210), Ben Breac (1482),
Meall Alt Dubh (794), Rainberg(1495), and Na Ursainge
(580) ; to the S, Sprinncaldale (1653), Beinn an Oir
(2569), Beinn a Chaolais (2412), Dubh Beinn (1735),
Brat Beinn (1123), and Cnoc Reumer (595). The two
highest of these, Beinn an Oir (Gael, 'mountain of
gold ') and Beinn a Chaolais ('mountain of the sound '),
are the conical Paps of Jura, which figure conspicuously
in a multitude of views both near and far. The western
declivities of the island are abrupt, rugged, wild, inter-
sected by numerous torrents, and almost destitute of
verdure ; and they approach so closely to the shore, in
skirts as rocky and barren as their shoulders, that very
scanty space is left for culture or inhabitation. The
eastern declivities, descending more smoothly and
gradually, have their lower slopes clothed with vegeta-
tion, leave a belt of plain between their skirts and the
beach, and present on the whole a pleasing appearance.
Several anchoring places are on the W coast ; and two
good roadsteads, called Small Isles Harbour and Low-
landman's Bay, besides several landing-places, are on the
E coast. The Sound of Jura, contracting north-north-

335

JUXTA-KIRKPATRICK

eastward, sends off from its mainland side Loclis Caolis-
port, Sween, and Crinan ; contains a good many islets ;
and merges at its northern extremity into the tumultuous
waters of the Gulf of Corrievrechax. A principal
rock of Jura is white or red quartz, some of it brecciated ;
other rocks are micaceous granite, micaceous sand-
stone, and a bluish red-veined slate, so fine as to
be used as a whetstone. Its minerals include iron ore,
a vein of black oxide of manganese, and a fine silicious
sand suitable for the manufacture of glass. The mica-
ceous granite is quarried, and the silicious sand has been
used in glass-making. The soil along the shore is thin
and stony ; on the slopes is partly moorish, partlj^ im-
provable moss ; and along the foot of the moimtains is
so beset with springs, or otherwise so spouty, as to be
wholly unworkable. A dozen small upland lakes lie in
the hollows among the hills ; and several considerable
burns, well stocked with trout and salmon, descend to
the coast. Cattle and sheep farming is carried on ; but
much the greater part of the island is deer-forest, the
head of deer being estimated at 2000. Little compar-
atively of the land is arable, though much that was
formerly waste has been reclaimed for either tillage or
pasture. The cattle are a good strong Highland breed ;
and black-faced and Cheviot sheep were introduced in
the first two decades of the present century. Several
barrows and duns are on the hills ; and near Small Isles
Harbour are remains of an ancient camp, with a triple
line of defence. Jura House, near the southern coast,

EAMES

is the seat of James Campbell, Esq. of Jura (b. 1818 ;
sue. 1878), who holds 55,000 acres, valued at nearly
£4000 per annum. The other proprietor is Walter Mac-
farlane, Esq. of Ardlussa, which has been noticed
separately. In 1877, Henry Evans, Esq., lessee of Jura
Forest, built a fine large shooting-lodge near Small
Isles. Pop. (1811) 1157, (1831) 1312, (1851) 1064, (1861)
858, (1871) 761, (1881) 773.

The parish of Jura, anciently comprehending the
islands of Gigha, Cara, Colonsay, and Oronsay, was
designated Kilearnadale and Kilchattan. Gigha and
Cara were disjoined about 1729, Colonsay and Oronsay
in 1861 ; but it still comprises the islands of Belnahua,
Garvelloch, Lunga, and Scarba, all of which are
noticed separately. Its present total area is 93,799
acres, or 146^ square miles. This parish is in the
presbytery of Islay and Jura and synod of Argyll ;
the living is worth £186. The parish church was built
in 1776, and, as enlarged and improved in 1842, con-
tains 249 sittings. There is a Free Church preaching
station ; and five schools, all of them public but the
last — Ai'dlussa, Belnahua, Knockrome, Small Isles,
and New Brosdale — with respective accommodation
for 30, 41, 68, 56, and 38 children, had (1881) an aver-
age attendance of 12, 17, 29, 39, and 25, and grants of
£24, lis., £29, 4s., £39, 14s., £45, 3s., and £32, 5s.
A^aluation (1SS3) £5568, 8s. Pop. (1861) 1052, (187])
952, (1881) 946, of whom 819 were Gaelic-speaking.

Juxta-Kirkpatrick. See Kirkpatrick-Juxta.

K

KAIL. See Kale.
Kailzie (anciently Hoplcaihie), a former parish
of Peeblesshire, bisected by the Tweed, and
suppressed in 1674, when about two-thirds of it,
on the right bank of the Tweed, were annexed to Tra-
quair ; whilst the rest, on the left bank, was annexed
to Innerleithen. The ruins of its church stand, in the
midst of an old burying-ground, on a burn running
northward to the Tweed ; and near them, 2^ miles ESE
of Peebles, is Kailzie House, a plain, two-storied man-
sion of the early part of the present century. Its owner,
William Connel Black, Esq. (b. 1839), holds 1460 acres
in the shire, valued at £1441 per annum. — Orel. Sur.,
sh. 24, 1864.

Kaimes. See Kames.

Kair House, a neat modern mansion in Arbuthnott
parish, Kincardineshire, near the left bank of Bervie
Water, 1^ mile NE of Fordoun station. It is the seat
of David Johnston, Esq., M.D. (b. 1814), who purchased
the estate from the Kinlochs in 1867, and holds 871 acres
in the shire, valued at £1315 per annum. — Ord. Sur.,
sh. 66, 1871.

Kale Water, a stream of NE Roxburghshire, rising,
as Long Burn, on Leap Hill, one of the central Cheviots,
near the English Border, at an altitude of 1230 feet
above sea-leveL Thence it runs 14§ miles north-by-
eastward, through Oxnam, Hounam, and Morebattle
parishes, to a point 7 furlongs ENE of Morebattle vil-
lage ; proceeds thence 5J- miles west-north-westward,
chiefly on the boundary between Jlorebattle and Linton
parishes, and through Eckford pai'ish ; and, after a total
descent of 1135 feet, falls into the Teviot at Kalemouth,
4f miles S by W of Kelso. Its upper basin con-
sists of beautiful, verdant, upland pastures, long noted
for their excellence, and famous for an esteemed variety
of the Cheviot sheep, called Kale AVater sheep ; its
middle and lower reaches lie through charming dells,
across 'ferny knowes,' along a lovely vale, and athwart
rich fields of ' silvery wheat and golden oats ; ' and its
lowest reach runs partly down a deep ravine, in bygone
days a retreat and meeting-place of Covenanters. Miss
Baillie, supplementing a fragment of a fine old Scottish
336

song beginning '0 the ewe-bughting 's bonny, baith
e'ening and morn,' sings —

' O the sheep-herding's lightsome amang tlie green braes,
■\Miere Kale dimples clear 'neath the white-blossomed slaes —
Where the wild thyme and meadow-queen scent the saft gale.
And the cushat croods leesomely doon in the dale !
There the lintwhite and mavis sing sweet frae the thorn.
And blithe lilts the laverock aboon the green corn ;
And a' things rejoice in the simmer's glad prime —
But my heart 's wi' my love in the far foreign clime.'

The Kale still yields capital sport, its trout ranging
between J and 3 lbs. ; though no longer may two rods
expect to kill over 400 fish in a single day, as fifty
years since, in the youth of the late Mr Stoddart. —
Ord. Sur., shs. 17, 18, 26, 25, 1863-64.

Kalligray. See Calligray.

Karnes, a hamlet in Liberton parish, Edinburghshire,
3i miles S by E of Edinburgh.

Karnes, a straggling village in Kilfinan parish, Argyll-
shire, on the W side of the Kyles of Bute, 1| to 2f miles
SSW of Tighnabruaich. It has a post office under
Greenock, a steamboat pier, an inn, powder works, and
an artillery volunteer battery. — Ord. Sur., sh. 29, 1873.

Karnes, a mansion in Eccles parish, S Berwickshire,
6 miles E of Greenlaw, and 6i NNW of Coldstream.
A gabicd edifice in the old Scottish style, surrounded by
fine old trees, it was the birthplace, property, and resi-
dence of the distinguished judge and philosopher,
Henry Home (1696-1782) — the place whence, as Lord
of Session, he took the title of Lord Kames, and where
he wrote many of his works, and entertained Dr Benjamin
Franklin in 1759.— Ord. Sur., sh. 26, 1864.

Kames, a bay, a hill, and a castellated mansion in
North Bute parish, Buteshire. The bay, indenting the
E side of Bute island, measures 9^ furlongs across the
entrance, and 7^ thence to its inmost recess. It sweeps
round in half-moon form, and has a good bathing beach.
The hill overlooks the bay, rises to an altitude of
875 feet above sea-level, and commands a magnificent
view. Kames Castle stands at the SE base of the hill,
within J mile of the bay, and 2.^ miles NNW of Rothesay,
in the low fertile dingle which extends across the island

KAMESBURGH

to Etterick Bay. Long the seat of the Bannatynes of
Karnes, it comprises a 14th century tower, with a liousc
built on it by Sir William Macleod Baunatyne, Knt.
(1743-1834), who, on his elevation to the bench in 1799,
assumed the title of Lord Bannatyne, and from whom
it passed to the Marquis of Bute. Karnes Castle was
the birthplace, and for three years the home, of the
critic and essayist John Sterling (1806-44), whose bio-
grapher, Carlyle, describes it as 'a kind of dilapidated
baronial residence, to which a small farm, rented by his
father, was then attached.' Wester Kames Castle, once
the seat of the Spences, 3 furlongs NNW of Kames Castle,
•was mainly a small tower of no great antiquity, and is
now a ruin. — Ord. Sur., sh. 29, 1873.

Kamesburgh or Port Bannatyne, a village in North
Bute parish, Buteshire, on Kames Bay, 2^ miles NNAV
of Rothesay, with which it was connected by a tramwaj^
in 1882. Curving round the southern shore of the
bay, and containing some good houses, let for summer
quarters, it presents a clean and tidy aspect, and looks
out upon the beauty of the E end of Kyles of Bute. It
maintains a herring fishery ; communicates with steamers
plying between Rothesay and places within or beyond
the Kyles ; and has a post and telegraph office (Port
Bannatyne) under Rothesay, a qi;ay and a steamboat
pier, an excellent hotel, a hydropathic establishment,
and North Bute Free church (1843). Pop, (1861) 504,
(1871) 575, (1881) 651.— Ord. Sur., sh, 29, 1873.

Kannor. See Cannok.

Katerine, Ayrshire. See Catrixe.

Katrine, Loch, a lake, the western shore of whose
upper 2J miles belongs to Buchanan parish, Stirling-
shire, but which elsewhere extends along the mutual
border of Callander and Aberfoyle parishes, SW Perth-
shire. Lying 364 feet above sea-level, it curves 8 miles
east-south -east\\-ard, and, opposite Letter farm, has an
utmost width of 7^ furlongs, with a maximum depth of
78 fathoms. Glengtle Water flows 3| miles south-
eastward to its head, and from its foot it sends off
Achray Water If mile east-by-southward to Loch
AcHRAY, belonging thus to the basin of the Teith ;
■whilst forty-eight rivulets leap down the hill-sides to
its shores. Chief elevations to the N of the lake, from
head to foot, are Meall Mor (2451 feet), An Garadh
(2347), Stob a Choin (2839), Cruinn Bheiun (1787),
Meall Gaothach (1981), Bealach-na-h Imriche (1592),
Ben A'an (1500), Meall Gainmheich (1851), and Ben
Vane (2685) ; to the S, Maol Mor (2249), Meall Mead-
honach (893), Beinn Uaimhe (1962), Bex Lomond
(3192), Druim nan Cam (1495), and Bex Vexue (2393).
A small iron steamer was launched on its waters in
1843 ; and the Hob Eoy now plies to and fro from
Stronachlachar Hotel, 2§ miles SE of the head of the
lake and 5 ENE of Inversnaid on Loch Lomond, to a
pier at the foot, 1| mile W of the Trossachs Hotel and
9| miles W by S of Callander. On board of her the
Queen, with the Princesses Louise and Beatrice, sailed
up the lake, 6 Sept. 1869. Loch Katrine belongs to
the Duke of Montrose and Lad}' Willoughby de Eresby ;
it contains some char, abundance of good trout, and pike
running up to 20 lbs. Its waterworks have been fuUv
described under Glasgow. See also Bealach-nam-Bo.
Ellen's Isle, and other articles already indicated.

Scott visited the Trossachs and Loch Katrine on
several occasions during 1790-1809, the year before the
publication of the Lady of the Lake ; and, as Principal
Shairp remarks, ' the world believes, and will continue
to believe, that he was the first Sassenach who dis-
covered the Trossachs, as it was his poem which gave
them world-wide celebrity.' In 1790, however, and
1800 the Rev. James Robertson, minister of Callander,
bad described them in the Old Statistical and his Sketch
of the most remarkable Scenery near Callander ; and in
1804 we find William Wordsworth endeavouring to
make his visit hither 'appear not so very foolish, by
informing the dwellers by the lakeside that this was a
place much celebrated in England, though perhaps little
thought of by them. ' No better description exists of
Loch Katrine than that which is given by his sister

KATRINE, LOCH

Dorothy, the more so as it depicts it in its twofold aspect
— dreary and naked at the head, wooded and ever more
beautiful towards the foot. ' Coleridge and I, ' she writes,
' as we sate [near Stronachlachar], had what seemed but
a dreary prospect — a waste of unknown ground which
we guessed we must travel over before it was possible to
find a shelter. We saw a long way down the lake ; it
was all moor on the near side ; on the other the hills
were steep from the water, and there were large coppice-
woods, but no cheerful green fields, and no road that we
could see ; we knew, however, that there must be a road
from house to house ; but the whole lake appeared a soli-
tude— neither boats, islands, nor houses, no grandeur
in the hills, nor any loveliness in the shores. When we
first came in view of it we had said it was like a barren
Ulswater — Ulswater dismantled of its grandeur, and
cropped of its lesser beauties. When I had swallowed
my dinner I hastened after William, and Coleridge fol-
lowed me. Walked through the heather with some
labour for perhaps half a mile, and found William
sitting on the top of a small eminence, whence we saw
the real head of the lake, which was pushed up into the
vale a considerable way beyond the promontory where
we now sate. The view up the lake was very pleasing,
resembling Thirlmere below Armath. There were rocky
promontories and woody islands, and, what was most
cheering to us, a neat white house on the opposite
shore. . , , We were rowing do\vn that side of the
lake which had hitherto been little else than a moorish
ridge. After turning a rocky point we came to a bay
closed in by rocks and steep woods, chiefly of full-
grown birch. The lake was elsewhere rufSed, but at
the entrance of this bay the breezes sunk, and it was
calm : a small island was near, and the opposite shore,
covered with wood, looked soft through the misty rain.
William, rubbing his eyes, for he had been asleep, called
out that he hoped I had not let him pass by anything
that was so beautiful as this ; and I was glad to tell
him that it was but the beginning of a new laud.
After we had left this bay we saw before us a long
reach of woods and rocks and rocky points, that pro-
mised other bays more beautiful than what we had
passed. The ferryman was a good-natured fellow, and
rowed very industriously, following the ins and outs of
the shore ; he was delighted with the pleasure we ex-
pressed, continually repeating how pleasant it would
have been on a fine day. I believe he was attached
to the lake by some sentiment of pride, as his own
domain — his being almost the only boat upon it — which
made him, seeing we were wUling gazers, take far more
pains -than an ordinary boatman ; he would often say,
after he had compassed the turning of a point, ' ' This is
a bonny pai't," and he alwa3's chose the bonniest, with
greater skill than our prospect-hunters and " picturesque
travellers ; " places screened from the winds — that was
the first point ; the rest followed of course, — richer
growing trees, rocks and banks, and curves which the
eye delights in. The second bay we came to differed
from the rest ; the hills retired a short space from the
lake, leaving a few level fields between, on which was a
cottage embosomed in trees : the bay was defended by
rocks at each end, and the hills behind made a shelter
for the cottage, the only dwelling, I believe, except
one, on this side of Loch Ketterine. We now came to
steeps that rose directly from the lake, and passed by a
place called in the Gaelic the Den of the Ghosts,* which
reminded us of Lodore ; it is a rock, or mass of rock,
with a stream of large black stones like the naked or
dried-up bed of a torrent down the side of it ; birch-
trees start out of the rock in every direction, and cover
the hill above, further than we could see. The water
of the lake below was very deep, black, and calm. Our
delight increased as we advanced, till we came in view
of the termination of the lake, seeing where the river
issues out of it through a narrow chasm between the
hills. Here I ought to rest, as we rested, and attempt
to give utterance to our pleasure : but indeed I can
impart but little of what we felt. We were still on the
* Goblins' Cave.

337

EEALOCH

same side of the water, and, being immediately under
the hill, within a considerable bending of the shore, we
were enclosed by hills all round, as if we had been upon
a smaller lake of which the whole was visible. It was
an entire solitude ; and all that we beheld was the per-
fection of loveliness and beauty. We had been through
many solitary places since we came into Scotland, but
this place differed as much from any we had seen before,
as if there had been nothing in common between them ;
no thought of dreariness or desolation found entrance
here ; yet nothing was to be seen but water, wood,
rocks, and heather, and bare mountains above. We
saw the mountains by glimpses as the clouds passed by
them, and were not disposed to regret, with our boat-
man, that it was not a fine day, for the near objects
were not concealed from us, but softened by being seen
through the mists. The lake is not very wide here, but
appeared to be much nan-ower than it really is, owing
to the many promontories, which are pushed so far into
it that they are much more like islands than promon-
tories. We had a longing desire to row to the outlet
and look up into the narrow passage through which the
river went ; but the point where we were to land was
on the other side, so we bent our course right across,
and just as we came in sight of two huts, which have
been built by Lady Perth as a shelter for those who
visit the Trossachs, Coleridge hailed us with a shout of
triumph from the door of one of them, exulting in the
glory of Scotland. The huts stand at a small distance
from each other, on a high and perpendicular rock, that
rises from the bed of the lake. A road, which has a
very wild appearance, has been cut through the rock ;
yet even here, among these bold precipices, the feeling
of excessive beautifulness overcomes every other. While
we were upon the lake, on every side of us were bays
within baj's, often more like tiny lakes or pools than
bays, and these not in long succession only, but all
round, some almost on the broad breast of the water,
the promontories shot out so far.' See pp. 86-107,
220-235, of Dorothy Wordsworth's Tour in Scotland (ed.
by Princ. Shairp, Edinb. 1874) ; and Sir George B.
Airy's Topogj-ajyJiy of the ' Lady of the Lake' (Lond. 1873).

Eealoch or An Teallach, a mountain (3483 feet)
in Lochbroom parish, NW Ross-shire, rising on the S
side of the upper part of Little Loch Broom, 3J miles
SW of Dundonnell. It consists entirely of sandstone,
but presents an appearance as if it consisted of granite ;
and rises on one side right from the loch in steep and
soaring acclivities, on another side from among a series
of glens, ravines, and ridges, nearly all of white rock
and unutterably desolate. It overtops all the neigh-
bouring country, and looks to the eye to be higher than
any single mountain in Scotland, excepting Ben Nevis ;
and it commands an extensive view, comprising all the
details of Lochs Broom and Greinord. — Ord. Sur., sh.
92, 1881.

Eeanloch. See Kinloch.

Keannoath, See Oa.

Keam. See AtrcHiNDOiR and Kearn.

Kearvaig (Gael. Amhuinn Chearbhaig), a rivulet in
Durness jiarish, NW Sutherland, issuing from triangular
Loch na Gainmhich (3Jx3:| furl. ; 790 feet), and run-
ning 6 miles north-north-westward to the sea, at a
point 2\ miles ESE of Cape Wrath. It is ascended by
sea-trout and a few grilse, but is seldom visited by
anglers.— 0?-rf. Sur., sh. 113, 1882.

Keavil, a mansion in Dunfermline parish, Fife, on
the Pitfirrane property, 2.-J miles WSW of the town.

Eedslie, a farm near the S border of the detached
district of Lauder parish, Berwickshire, 3 miles NW of
Earlston. Here stood a pre-Reformation chapel, sub-
ordinate to Lauder church.

Keen, Mount, a conical mountain (3077 feet), one of
the Central Grampians, on the mutual border of Lochlee
jjarish, Forfarshire, and Glenmuick parish, Aberdeen-
shire, 7 miles SSE of Ballater by a steep rough track to
Lochlee, which crosses its western shoulder at an altitude
of 2500 feet, and up which the Queen rode on 20 Sept.
1861.— Orrf. Sur., sh. 65, 1870.
338

EEIR

Eeig, a parish of central Aberdeenshire, whose
church stands near the left bank of the river Don,
3 miles NNW of Whitehouse station, this being 2g
E by S of Alford and 26^ WNW of Aberdeen, under
which there is a post office of Keig. The parish,
containing Whitehouse station in the extreme S, is
bounded N by Leslie and Premnay, E by Oyne and
Monymusk, S by Monymusk and Tough, SW by
Alford, and W by TuUynessle. Its utmost length,
from N to S, is 4| miles ; its breadth, from E to
W, varies between If and 3J miles ; and its area is
81 19^ acres, of which 60| are water. The Don winds
5f miles east-north-eastward here— 5 furlongs along the
boundary with Alford, 3§ miles through the interior,
and 9 furlongs along the Monymusk border ; and here
it is fed b}^ several little burns. Along it the surface
declines to 335 feet above sea-level, thence rising north-
ward and north-westward to 1619 feet on Bennochie
and 929 at the Barmkin, southward to 1250 on the
western slope of Cairn AVilliam. Granite is the pre-
vailing rock ; gneiss, gi'eenstone, and clay-slate appear
in a few places ; mica slate lies profusely scattered on
much of the surface ; and masses of porphyry and some
tolerable specimens of rock crystal are found. The soil
of the haugh along the Don is mostly sandy or gravelly
alluvium, combined with clay ; of the plain, is partly a
good mould ; and of the arable acclivities, is mostly
reclaimed moor. Rather less than half of the entire
area is arable, nearly one-third is under wood, and the
rest of the land is either pasture or moor. Two Cale-
donian stone circles, and a ruinous circular enclosure
of loose stones, called the Barmkin, are the chief anti-
quities. Castle-Forbes, noticed separately, is the only
mansion ; and Lord Forbes is the chief proprietor, but
two others hold each an annual value of between £100
and £500. Keig is in the presbytery of Alford and
synod of Aberdeen ; the living is worth £216. The
parish church is a neat Gothic structure of 1835, con-
taining 450 sittings. There is also a Free church ; and
a public school, with accommodation for 100 children,
had (1883) an average attendance of 103, and a grant of
£102, 7s. 6d. Valuation (1860) £3230, (1882) £4492,
plus £179 for railway. Pop. (1801) 379, (1831) 592,
(1861) 811, (1871) 886, (1881) 776.— Ord. Sur., sh. 76,
1874.

Eeil, an estate, with a modern mansion, in Southend
parish, Argyllshire. The mansion stands near the ex-
tremity of Kintyre, opposite Sanda island, lOJ miles
SSAV of Campbeltown ; and the estate extends a con-
siderable distance along the coast. A ruined church,
near the mansion, is traditionally alleged to occupy a
spot visited by St Columba on his way from Ireland to
lona ; and an ancient stone cross, supposed to have been
erected to the memory of the saint, also stood here, but
is now represented by only the pedestal. Several large
caves are on the coast, and one of them is alleged by
the native peasantry to extend 6 miles inland to Killel-
lan mil— Ord. Sur., sh. 12, 1872.

Eeillour, an estate, with a mansion, in Fowlis-Wester
parish, Perthshire, 2i miles NNW of Balgowan station.

Eeills, a hamlet and a promontory in North Knap-
dale parish, Argyllshire. The hamlet lies on the W
coast, near the southern extremity of the promontory,
opposite Lagg, in Jura, and 13| miles SSW of Crinan
Pier. The ferry station for communication from Knap-
dale and the central parts of Argyllshire, with the
central parts of Jura, ^vith the N of Islay, and with
Oronsay and Colonsay, it has a post office under
Lochgilphead, an ancient cross, and the ruins of an
ancient chapel. Tlie promontory lies between Loch
Swin and the Sound of Jura ; extends 84 miles south-
soutli-Avestward ; is comparatively narrow ; and has
mostly bold rocky coasts, rising murally in many
places to a height of 300 feet.

Eeilor Burn. See Inverkeilor.

Eeir, a Nithsdale parish of Dumfriesshire, whose
church stands near the right bank of Scar Water, Ig
mile SE of Penpont village and 25 miles SW of the
post-town Thornhill. It is bounded N by Penpont, E

EEIR

KEITH

by Closeburn, S by Dunscore, W by Glencairn, ami
NW by Tynron. Its utmost length, from NW to SE,
is 7 miles ; its utmost breadth is 2J miles ; and its area
is 7890 acres, of which 844 are water. Shinnel Water
runs 2 miles north-north-eastward along the western
border to the Scar ; Scar "Water winds 3^ miles east-
south-eastward along the northern and north-eastern
border to the Nith ; and the Nith itself runs 5| miles
south-south-eastward along the Closeburn boundary to
the south-eastern extremity in the vicinity of Auldgirth
Bridge. The southern border is traced by Glenmids
Burn ; and six other rivulets, each about IJ mile long,
rise in the interior, and run in almost parallel lines, at
nearly regular intervals, north-north-eastward to the
Scar and to the Nith, one of them traversing a romantic
wooded ravine, and forming in one part a very beauti-
ful waterfall. Springs are everywhere abundant ; and
two small lakes, one of them containing leeches, were
formerly in the W, but have been drained. Low flat
alluvial land, with an elevation of from 80 to 280 feet
above sea-level, lies along the Nith, the Scar, and the
Shinnel ; and a steep wooded bank flanks most of that
land all down to the extreme southern extremity.
Thence the surface rises to 604 feet near Blackwood,
1171 on the Glencairn border, and 887 at Capenoch
Moor ; and, as seen from the highway between Thornhill
and Closeburn, presents a picture of no common beauty.
Silurian rocks predominate, but newer rocks occur ; and
limestone and sandstone have been worked at Barjarg
and Porterstown. The soil of the haugh lands is rich
alluvium ; of the tablelands is mostly gravelly or sandy ;
and of the arable portions of the hills is generally a rich
loam, full of stones. About one -half of all the land is
arable ; a fair proportion is under wood ; and the rest
is variously meadow, hill pasture, and waste. Gone are
a standing stone near the parish church and a ' Court
Knowe ' on the glebe ; but a stone on Keir Hill marks
the spot where James Ren wick often preached in the
days of the persecution, and the site of an ancient chapel
is on Kilbride Hill. Mansions, noticed separately, are
Barjarg, Blackwood, Capenoch, and Waterside ; and the
property is divided among five. Keir is in the presby-
tery of Penpont and synod of Dumfries ; the living is
worth £343. The parish church (1814 ; renovated
1880) contains 330 sittings ; and the Lower public,
the Upper public, and Capenoch infant schools, with
respective accommodation for 59, 100, and 75 children,
had (1881) an average attendance of 62, 60, and 43, and
grants of £55, 4s., £55, 7s., and £34, 9s. 6d. Valua-
tion (1860) £5253, (1883) £6615, 12s. Pop. (1801) 771,
(1831) 987, (1861) 849, (1871) 828, (1881) 745.— Ord
Sur., sh. 9, 1863.

Keir (Celt, caer, 'fort'), a mansion on the mutual
border of Lecropt and Dunblane parishes, S Perth-
shire, If mile SSW of Dunblane to-svn and If NW of
Bridge of Allan. The lands of Keir were acquired
from George Leslie of that ilk in 1448 by Lucas of
Strevelyn, whose descendant, William, between 1849
and 1851 ' made considerable alterations in the house,
removing the entrance from the E to the N, building a
new set of offices, turning the old entrance hall into a
noble library, and adding a bay to the eastern front.
The porch, gateway, and connecting arcade, and the
terraces which surround three sides of the house, were
likewise constructed by him ; and he added consider-
ably to the beautiful pleasure-grounds.' He, Sir
William Stirling- Maxwell (1818-78), was author of The
Cloister Life of Charles V. and other works, and sat for
Perthshire in the Conservative interest from 1852 to
1868. In 1865 he succeeded his maternal uncle in the
PoLLOK estates and baronetcy, and assumed the addi-
tional surname of Maxwell. He held 20,814 acres,
valued at £34,245 per annum, viz., 8863 in Perthshire
(£5732), 1487 in Stirlingshire (£2370), 4773 in Ren-
frewshire (£14,171), and 5691 in Lanarkshire (£11,972).
His son and successor, Sir John Maxwell Stirling-Max-
well, tenth Bart, since 1682, was born in 1866. — Ord.
Sur., sh. 39, 1869. See Dr William Eraser's Stirlings
o/Z'eiVCEdinb. 1858).

Keiss, a village and a quoad sfrra parish in the NE
extremity of the parish of Wick, on the NW side of
Sinelairs Bay, 7| miles N by W of the town of Wick,
under which it has a post and telegraph ofBce. It also
possesses a boat harbour, with 58 boats and 135 fisher
men and boys, an Established church, a Free church,
and a small Baptist chapel, the last dating from 1750.
Keiss House is f mile NNE of the village ; Keiss Castle,
the ruin of a small feudal tower, stands between it and
the sea. Explorations, carried out in 1864 at Keiss
Links, laid bare several cists containing human remains,
and a large number of implements of the stone period,
wliich have been described by Samuel Laing, Esq.,
M. P., and Professor Huxley in their Pre-historic Be-
mains of Caithness (Lond. 1866). The quoad sacra
parish, constituted by the General Assembly in 1833,
and erected by the civil authorities after the Disruption,
is in the presbytery of Caithness and the synod of
Sutherland and Caithness. Its church, erected by
Government in 1827 at a cost of £1500, contains 338
sittings. Two public schools, Aukengill and Keiss, with
respective accommodation for 80 and 160 children, had
(1881) an average attendance of 46 and 76, and grants
of £34 and £54, 17s. Pop. of village (1871) 327, (1881)
313 ; of q. s. parish (1871) 1124, (1881) 1348, of whom
253 were in Canisbay parish. — Ord. Sur., sh. 116,
1878.

Keith, a parish in the centre of the county of Banff,
and occupying for some distance its whole width. It is
aboitt 5 miles from the coast. A portion near the centre
of the W side crosses the county boundary, and ex-
tends into the county of Elgin. It is touched at the
extreme NE corner by the parish of Deskford, and is
bounded E by the parish of Grange, SE for about 2 miles
by the county of Aberdeen, S by the parishes of Cairnie
and Botriphnie, W by Botriphnie, Boharm, and Bellie,
and NW by Bellie and by Rathven. Tlie boundary is
artificial, except for about 5 miles on the E side, between
Keith and Grange parishes, where it is formed by the
Altmore Burn, and for 2 miles on the W between Keith
and Bellie parishes, where it is formed by Forgie Burn.
Though the outline is irregular, the parish is compact.
The greatest length, from N by E (at tlie point where it
touches Deskford parish) to S by W (at a point about
4 mile SW of Edintore House), is S| miles ; and the
greatest width, from E (at the point where the Great
North of Scotland railway passes into Grange parish)
to W (near the HUl of Mulderie), is 6| miles. The area
is 18,264-820 acres, of which 16,381-053 are in Bantf-
shire, and 1883 -767 in Elginshire. The surface is very
irregular and undulating, and varies in height from 338
feet, at the bridge over the Isla to the NE of the town,
to 766 feet (Garral Hill towards the NE end of the
parish), 1199 (on the Meikle Balloch Hill to the SE),
967 (at Cairds Wood on the S), and 1020 (at the Hill of
Mulderie on the W). The soil is in many places good
clay loam, but is often hard, damp, and mossy, and
somewhat unkindly. By far the larger portion is under
crop or wooded, there being very little waste ground.
Two of the woodland sections, one S of Keith, and the
other SW of Fife-Keith, have, at the expense of the
superiors of the respective villages, been laid out with
walks for the use of the public. The drainage of a con-
siderable part of the parish is effected by means of the
river Isla, which enters on the SW from Botriphnie
parish, and flows with a winding course N and NE,
passing between Keith and Fife-Keith, and then turns
eastward between Keith and Newmill, and winds E till
it passes into Grange parish in its onward course to
junction with the Deveron. There are a number of
small burns, the principal being the Burn of Newmill,
which rises in the NW, flows past the W end of the
village of Newmill, and falls into the Isla ; and the
Burn of Tarnash, which rises in the SE, and flows E of
Keith also into the Isla. On three of the streams near
Keith tliere are waterfalls, picturesque, though of no
gi-eat size ; and the rocky glens through which the
burns flow are rich localities for botanists, yielding,
among other plants, plentiful specimens of the oak,

339

KEITH

beech, and bladder ferns. Near the centre of the parish,
f mile N of Keith village, is Keith Junction station
on the Highland and Great North of Scotland railway
systems. This is the terminus of the Forres and Keith
section of the former, which passes W by S through the
parish for a distance of 3^ miles. Of the latter, it is
the junction of the Aberdeen and Keith, and Keith and
Elgin sections, of which the former passes E through
the parish for 2f miles, while the latter follows a wind-
ing course to the SW for a distance of 4 miles, Fife-
Keith being accommodated by a station at Earlsmill, and
the southern part of the parish by a station at Auchin-
dach}', in Botriphnie. A line from Keith station, at
present (1883) in course of construction, will pass north-
ward to Buckie. It will form part of the Highland
system. The parish forms the connecting link between
the upper and lower districts of Banffshire, and near the
centre it is traversed from E to W by the great road from
Aberdeen to Inverness. The underlying rocks are
primary, and contain in many places beds of limestone
of excellent quality, which are extensively worked at
Blackhillock and Braehead. In places grej"^ fluor
spar is to be found associated with green antimony,
and on the bank of Tarnash Burn, SE of the village of
Keith, is a small mass of alum shale. The churches
and industries are connected with the villages, and most
of them are noticed in the following article Keith.
Besides Keith and Fife- Keith the parish contains the
village of Newmill, about 1^ mile N of Keith, on a slope
facing S. This is now the centre of the quoad sacra
parish of Newmill, disjoined in 1877. The church stands
at the E end. It was erected in 1870, and is a plain
building containing 520 sittings. There is also a Free
Church mission house. The population of Newmill village
was, in 1871, 614 ; in 1881, 651,— of the parish in 1881,
1431. Besides the public schools at Keith village there
are also board schools at Auchanacie, Fife-Keith, Glen
of Newmill, Newmill, and Tarrycroys, which, with
respective accommodation for 50, 50, 80, 135, and 80
pupils, had (1881) an average attendance of 26, 53, 44,
112, and 52 respectively, and grants of £39, 14s., £41,
12s. 6d., £25, 17s. 4d., £92, 6s., and £49, 10s. The
chief object of antiquarian interest is the old tower
of Milton near the railway station, once belonging to
the family of Oliphant. Mention is made in the old
Statistical Account of stone circles on the Caird's Hill,
but these have disappeared, as have also the sanative
properties of the neighbouring Tober-chalaich or Old
Wife's Well. The old bridge across the Isla is noticed
in the following article. The parish anciently extended
from Fordyce to Mortlach, and belonged to the Abbey
of Kinloss, to which it was granted by William the
Lyon. James Ferguson the astronomer (1710-76), a
native of the adjoining parish of Rothiemay, was edu-
cated here, and was for a time in service at the farm
of Ardnedlie, about 1 mile S of the town of Keith.
Five proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and
upwards, and 2 hold between £500 and £100. The
Earl of Fife is the largest landowner, but the Earl
of Seafield has the largest rental. The only mansion
is Edintore House. The sum raised by the parochial
board in 1882 was £2448 from assessments. The
parish is in the presbytery of Strathbogie and the synod
of Moray. The stipend is £352, with a manse and
a glebe worth respectively £28 and £32, 10s. a year.
Valuation (1883) of Banffshire section £23,275, of
Elginshire section £1087. Pop. (1801) 3284, (1831)
4464, (1861) 5943, (1871) 5891, (1881) 6396, of whom
6163 were in Banffshire, and the rest in Elginshire. —
Ord. Sur., shs. 85, 86, 1876.

Keith, a post-town in Banffshire, near the centre of
the parish described in the last article. It consists of
the three divisions of Old and New Keith on the
right bank of the Isla, and Fife-Keith on the left
bank, but Old Keith to the NW has been swallowed up
by its younger rival, and both are now collectively
known as Keith. It is f mile distant from the Keith
station on the Highland and Great North of Scotland rail-
ways, and is by rail 12^ miles NW of Huntly, 18 ESE of
340

KEITH

Elgin, 20i SW of Banff, 53^ NW of Aberdeen, and 170
N of Edinburgh. By road it is 9 miles SE of Fochabers,
10 NW of Huntly, and 12 SSW of Cullen. Notwith-
standing the disadvantage of its distance from the
station, it is a thriving place, the centre of traffic for
middle Banffshire, and the centre of communication
by road between the upper and lower districts of the
county. Old Keith has a considerable antiquity, for it
appears in the form of 'Geth' in a deed granted by
William the Lyon, and in virtue of which the whole of
Strathisla passed into the possession of the Abbey of
Kinloss. The deed was granted at Elgin, but bears no
date, though probably it was about 1177, a year estab-
lished from other evidence as a time when William
visited the North. It had a jurisdiction of regality,
and in virtue of this and of its trade, it was, at an early
period, superior in consequence to Banff, Cullen, or
Fordyce, then the other towns in the county. The
court of regality sat in the church and, treason excepted,
judged all civil and criminal causes, even including the
four Crown pleas. The panels were put for trial into a
window called ' the Boss Window, ' and were committed
on conviction to the steeple which served as a jail.
Those convicted on capital charges were executed on
the hill where New Keith has since been built, the
place of execution being in Mid Street, on ground
now occupied by the stable-yard of the Seafield Arms
Hotel. At the abolition of the regality jurisdictions in
1748 the value of this one was set down at £200. The
old town seems to have extended some distance along
the Isla, but being inconveniently situated it dwindled
away. It used to be celebrated for the Summer Eve
Fair, which was up to the beginning of the present
century one of the most important fairs in Scotland.
' It lasted about a week, and was attended by people
from all parts of Scotland. So great was the gathering
that the town of Keith could not lodge the half of them,
and they had to seek lodgings in country houses and
small inns for several miles around.' It is still held, but
is shorn of its former greatness. Old Keith has been the
scene of several noteworthy events. On 30 June 1645,
General Baillie here offered battle to Montrose, who,
however, considered the position of the Covenanters too
strong. Baillie seems to have been drawn up on the
ground now occupied by the new to\\ai and along by
Begg's Brae, while Montrose approached from Aucha-
nacie. On this occasion Montrose was in the full
flush of victory after the battle of Auldearn, but in
1650 he was destined to revisit Keith under different
circumstances. He was then a captive unkempt and
ragged. Keith was reached on a Sunday when for some
unknown reason divine service was to be celebrated in
the churchyard. The marquis was carried to the spot,
and the minister of Keith — William Kininmonth, once
chaplain to General David Leslie — preached cU him from
1 Sam. XV. 33. IMontrose 'perceiving the drift of the
orator said "Rail on," and submitted in patience.' In
1667 a well-known freebooter of the day, Peter Eoy
Macgregor, made a descent on Old Keith, and a bloody
encounter between his band and the inhabitants of the
district took place in the old church3'ard, with a residt
so little favourable to the 'caterans,' that Roy was
taken prisoner and afterwards executed at Edinburgh.
In 1745 Major Glasgow, an Irishman in the French
service and acting with the forces of Prince Charles
Edward, surprised a detachment of government troops
here and carried off about eighty prisoners.

New Keith or Keith proper was first laid out about
1750 by the then Earl of Findlater. It adjoins Old
Keith on tlie SE, and occupies the eastern slope of
what was formerly but a barren moor. It is built on a
regular plan, there being a central square of large size,
and three principal streets running parallel to one
another in a N and S direction with cross lanes. The
feus measure 15 yds. by 60, so that a large garden is
provided for each. The principal inn was built in 1823
by the Earl of Seafield (the present superior), and con-
tains a large hall in which the district courts were
formerly held. The public hall, presented to the town

KEITH

by the late Mr "\iVilliain Longmore, banker and distiller,
is at the N end of the town. It is a plain, neat build-
ing, erected in 1872-73 at a cost of £2000. It contains
a portrait of Mr Longmore, presented to him in acknow-
ledgment of his gilt. The ground belonging to the
hall at the "W end was also laid out by Mr Longmore at
his o^\'n expense, and presented by him to the town to
be used as a public bowling green. To the AV of New
Keith and S of Old Keith, and close to the feus of the
latter, is a cottage hospital named the Turner Memorial
Hospital in remembrance of the late Dr Turner, Keith,
who was (in conjunction with Mr Longnaore) its chief
promoter, though he did not live to see it iinished. It
is a plain building erected in 1880 at a cost of £1200,
and contains 17 beds, including 1 for incurables. The
endowment fund amounts to about £4000, of which
£3000 were derived from the residue of the estate of the
late Dr Taylor, Deputy Inspector-General of Hospitals
and Fleets — a native of Keith — who founded the Green-
skares Bursaries at the University of Aberdeen. Other
support is derived from church collections and voluntary
subscriptions. There is in the town an abundant water
supply introduced in 1879 at a cost of £5000. The
source of supply is 3J miles distant. The question of
improved drainage is at present (1883) being agitated.
The lighting is carried oi;t by a private gas company,
whose works are to the W of the Longmore Hall. The
parish church, still farther to the W, is a handsome
building with a square pinnacled tower 120 feet high,
with clock and bell. It was erected in 1816-19 at a
cost of £6220, and was repainted in 1S74, while gas was
introduced in 1880. There are 1661 sittings. The
Free church is a plain building of Disruption date, with
700 sittings. The United Presbyterian church near the
square is a plain Gothic building dating from 1853.
The walls were heightened, and the interior was greatly
improved in 1876. It contains 500 sittings. The
Episcopal church (Trinity) was formerly a very small
and plain building, built in 1808, but has been replaced
(1882-83) by a fine new Geometric Gothic building,
erected at a cost of £2200, to the NE of the Established
church. There will be accommodation for 300 persons.
The Eoman Catholic church (St Thomas) in the square,
with 450 sittings, was erected in 1S31. It is said to be
modelled after the church of St Maria-de-Yittoria at
Rome, and has two gigantic statues of St Peter and St
Paul at the SE and NE corners respectively. There is
a fine altar-piece, illustrating the incredulity of St
Thomas, presented to the church by Charles X. of
France. There are three buildings used as schools, with
total accommodation for 781 pupils. The three consti-
tute the Keith combined public school working on the
graded system. There are also an endowed ladies'
school, with accommodation for 50, and a school in
connection with the Roman Catholic Church, with
accommodation for 100 pupils. In the town or its
immediate neighbourhood there are a distillery, a card-
ing mill for the manufacture of blankets, etc., a tweed
manufactory, a brewery, a manure work, an agricultural
implement manufactory, and grain and fiour mills, and
there is also a large trade in dead meat. There is a
post office, with money order, savings' bank, and tele-
graph departments. There are branches of the Union,
Town and County, and Xorth of Scotland Banks, and
agencies of 25 insurance offices. There is a very large
market stance at the S end of the town, and cattle
markets are held on the first Friday of every month,
except in June when the market is held on the first
"Wednesday o. s., and in September (Summer Eve
Fair) when it is on the "Wednesday after the first
Tuesday o. s. There is a feeing market for married
servants on the first Friday of March, and for
others on the Friday before 26 May, on the second
Friday of July (for harvest), and on the Friday before
22 Nov. There is a weekly market every Satur-
day. Sheriff and ordinary small debt circuit courts
are held in Longmore Hall on the third Saturday of
every month, and justice of peace courts when required.
An effort is at present being made to organise a small

KEITHHALL

provincial museum in connection with the active field
club of the district. There are 5 inns, a public reading-
room and library, an agricultural society, holding a
spring and a summer show, a property investment com-
pany, an auxiliary to the Bible Society, and a lodge of
oddfellows (Strathisla). Pop. of New Keith and Old
Keith (1841) 1804, (1851) 2101, (1861) 2648, (1871) 3602,
(1881) 4329. Fife-Keith is to the "W of Keith, and is
separated from it by the Isla. The river is crossed by
tivo bridges, one now disused, except by pedestrians,
built in 1609, and the other at present in use, built in
1770. A stone in the old bridge bears the inscription
'Thomas ilurray. Janet Lindsay, 1609,' the names
being traditionally those of a worthy couple who lived
close to the ford that formerly existed, and who were so
distressed by the cries of persons in danger, that they
devoted their savings to the erection of a stone bridge.
Close by is the churchyard with a fragment of the old
church, the rest having been removed in 1819. The
new bridge has a stone with the inscription ' G. III. R.
R. S. 1770.' Immediately below is the pool called
' Gaun's Pot,' where witches were drowned, and into
which they were thrown from a rocky bank on the S
side. The village itself has a central square with a
main street passing E and W', and others diverging in
different directions. The Earl of Fife is superior. It
was founded in 1817, and has of late years been making
more rapid progress than of vore. The rate of feu-duty
is £9 per acre. Pop. (1861) 897, (1871) 945, (1881)
1196. See also Souter's Agriculture of the County of
Banff (1812) ; Sim's Legends of Strathisla (1st ed., Keith,
1849 ; 2d, Keith, 1851 ; 3d, Elgin, 1862); ^ Walk from
Keith to Eothiematj (Elgin, 1862) ; Sim's Old Keith and
a Stroll to Gairnie (Keith, 1865) ; and Gordon's The
Booh of the Chronicles of Keith, Grange, etc. (Glasg.
1880).

Keith, an ancient parish on the S'W border of Had-
dingtonshire, now forming the western district of
Humbie parish. Keith and ancient Humbie, at the
end of the 17th century, were called respectively Keith-
Symmars and Keith-Hundeby. Keith "Water, formed,
at the boundary with Edinburghshire, by the confluence
of Earl W'ater and Salters Burn, runs 1§ mile north-
eastward, across ancient Keith parish, to a confluence
with Humbie Water, 4^ furlongs N of the present
parish church. Keith House, once a seat of the Earls
Marischal, and now the property of the Earl of Hope-
toun, stands a little to the left of Keith "Water, f mile
"WSW^ of that stream's confluence with Humbie Water
and 3| miles NNE of Blackshiels. Once a fine old
building, it acquired the timber used in its construc-
tion in a gift from the King of Denmark towards the
close of the 16th century, and has ^\-ithin its grounds
remains of an ancient chapel and graveyard. Places
called Keith, Keith Mains, and Upper Keith are within
from 3 to 10 furlongs of Keith House ; and a fourth
called Keith Hill Ues 2i miles to the SSE.— 0/-rf. Sur.,
sh. 33, 1863.

Keithhall {Monl-egy prior to 1700), a Donside parish
of central Aberdeenshire, whose church stands 2 miles
E by S of the post-town, Inverurie. Since 1754 com-
prising two-thirds of the ancient parish of Kinkell, it is
bound'ed N by Bourtie, NE by Udny, E by the Banif-
shire or detached portion of New Machar and by Fin-
tray, SE bv Fintrav, S W by Kintore, and "W by Kintore,
Inverurie, and Chapel of Garioch. Its utmost length,
from N to S, is 4J miles ; its breadth, from E to "W,
tapering southward, varies between 1 furlong and 4|
miles ; and its area is 7639 acres, of which 38^ are
water. The Uey winds 2| miles south-south-eastward
along all the Inverurie boundary till it falls into the
Doy° which itself flows 3 miles south-south-eastward
along all the Kintore boundary. ""tVhere it passes ofl'
from°this parish, the surface declines to 153 feet above
sea-level, thence rising to 395 leet at Cairn More near
Balbithan, 458 near Caimhill, and 616 at Selbie Hill on
the northern border. The rocks include granite, trap,
and gneiss ; and the soil along the streams is a fertile
alluvial mixture of clay, loam, and sand, but elsewhere

341

KEITH-HUNDEBY

is mostly liglit and gravelly. Nearly two-thirds of the
entire area are in tillage ; woods and plantations cover
410 acres ; and the rest is either pastoral or waste.
Antiquities, other than those noticed under Balbithan
and KiNKKLL, are vestiges of three large cairns and of
two or more stone circles ; and Kinmuck Moor, accord-
ing to tradition, was the scene of a great encounter
between the Scots and the Danes. Natives were Arthur
Johnston (1587-1641), the eminent Latin poet, whose
ancestors had held the estate of Caskieben Jbr many
generations, and Alexander Keith, D.D. (1791-1880),
the well-known writer on prophecy ; but the historian,
Bishop Gilbert Burnet (1G13-1715), was born at Edin-
burgh, though his father posscss-ed the lands of Crimond.
The estate of Caskieben (thereafter called Keithhall) was
purchased from the Johnstons about 1662 by Sir John
Keith, third son of the sixth Earl Marischal, who in
1677 was created Earl of Kintore and Baron Keith of
Inverurie and Keithhall. By the addition about 1700
of a front and E wing to the older house, he rendered it
a large and stately mansion, which stands near the
Ury's left bank, amidst a nobly-wooded park, 1 mile E
of Inverurie. His ninth descendant, Algernon-Haw-
kins-Thomond Keith-Falconer, tenth Earl of Kintore
and thirteenth Lord Falconer of Hat.kertoun (b. 1852 ;
sue. 1880), owns 17,021 acres in Aberdeenshire, 1053 in
Forfarshire, and 17,370 in Kincardineshire, valued at
£15,802, £1562, and £16,809 per annum. (See Inglis-
maldie. ) Two lesser proprietors hold an annual value
of more, and 5 of less, than £100. Keithhall is in the
presbytery of Garioch and synod of Aberdeen ; the living
is worth £348. The parish church, built in 1772, and
repaired in 1875, contains £00 sittings ; and the public
school, with accommodation for 140 children, had
(1881) an average attendance of 86, and a grant of
£75, 5s. Valuation (1860) £4618, (1882) £8551, plus
£59 for railway. Pop. (1801) 853, (1831) 877, (1861)
933, (1871) 874, (1881) 880.— Ord Sur., shs. 76, 77,
1874-73.
Keith-Hundeby. See Keith, Haddingtonshire.
Keithick, an estate, with a mansion, in Coupar- Angus
parish, Perthshire, 2 miles SW of the town. Its owner,
Edward Collins Wood, Esq. (b. 1841 ; sue. 1877), holds
1787 acres in the shire, valued at £2827 per annum.—
Orel Sur., sh. 48, 1868.
Keithinch. See Peterhead.
Keithock House. See Brechin.
Keithtown, a hamlet in Fodderty parish, SE Eoss-
shire, If mile W of Maryburgh.

Kelbume Castle, a seat of the Earl of Glasgow in
Largs parish, Ayrshire, within ^ mile of the Firth of
Clyde, 1| mile N by E of Fairlie, and 2 miles SSE of
Largs town. Originally a square tower, it was described
by Pont in the beginning of the 17th century as 'a
goodly building, well planted, having very beautiful
orchards and gardens ; ' and a hundred years later it
was enlarged by David, first Earl of Glasgow. Special
features of interest are a metal finial, with the crest of
the Boyles surmounted by a thistle, and 'an ingeniously
ornamented sun-dial, where every inch of surface is made
to tell the story of time, and where its pinnacle, by a
series of grooves, imitates the crocheting of Gothic
architecture.' The estate came into possession of the
Earl's ancestors so early as the time of Alexander III.
(1249-86), and gives the title of Viscount to George-
Frederick Boyle, sixth Earl of Glasgow since 1703 (b.
1825 ; sue. 1869), who holds 36,879 acres, valued at
£36,714 per annum, viz., 24,968 in Ayrshire (£18,359),
4453 in Renfrewshire (£7291), 5625 in Fife (£9085), and
1833 in Buteshire (£1979). The park contains many
fine old trees; comprises much diversity of ground, with
wooded braes and heights ; and includes a dark, wooded
glen, where Clea Burn, rising at an altitude of 1280 feet,
and running 2i miles north-north-westward and west-
ward to the Firth, forms two romantic waterfalls, the
lower one GO feet high.— OrcZ. Sur., sh. 21, 1870. See
vol. iii. of Billings' Baronial Antiquities (1853).

Kelhead, a place with lime-works in Cunimertrees
parish, Dumfriesshire, 3i miles WNW of Annan.
342

SELLS

Eellas, a hamlet in Murroes parish, Forfarshire, 5
miles NNE of Dundee.

Kellas, a village in Dallas parish, Elginshire, on the
left bank of the Lossie, 6^ miles SSAV of Elgin.

Kellerstain, a mansion in Ratho parish, Edinburgh-
shire, J mile WNW of Gogar station. Its owner, James
Maitland Logan AVhite, Esq. (b. 1848; sue. 1877), holds
357 acres in the shire, valued at £1352 per annum. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 32, 1857.

Kellie, an estate, with a decayed mansion, in Carnbee
parish, Fife. The mansion, 3|^ miles NW of Pitten-
weem, was once a grand castellated edifice, but is now
occupied by a fanner. The estate, which belongs to
the Earl of Mar and Kellie (see Alloa), contains Kellie
Law (500 feet) and Kellie coal mine, comprising two
main seams of cherry coal respectively 7 and 5 feet
thick.— Ore?. Sur., sh. 41, 1857.

Kelloe, a mansion in Edrom parish, Berwickshire, on
the left bank of Blackadder Water, IJ mile SSE of
Edrom station. Its owner, George Charles Fordyce-
Buchan, Esq. (b. 1867 ; sue. 1871), holds 824 acres in
the shire, valued at £2122 per annum. Between the
mansion and the station is the hamlet of Kelloe-Bastile.
—Ord. Sur., sh. 26, 1864.

Kello Water, a mountain rivulet of Sanquhar parish,
NW Dumfriesshire. Rising upon the northern slope
of Blacklorg Hill at an altitude of 1980 feet, it runs
2| miles north-north-eastward along the boundary with
New Cumnock in Ayrshire, and then 5| miles east-
north-eastward along the Kirkconnel border, till, after
a total descent of 1480 feet, it falls into the Nith at a
point 2| miles WNW of Sanquhar town. It is well
stocked with trout. — Ord. Sur., sh. 15, 1864.

Kells, a parish in Glenkens district, Kirkcudbright-
shire, containing the royal burgh of New Galloway.
It is bounded NW and N by Carsphairn, E by Dairy,
Balmaclellan, and Parton, S by Balmaghie, and SW and
W by Girthon and Minnigaff. Its utmost length, from
NW to SE, is 15^ miles ; its breadth varies between 1|
and 9| miles; and its area is 49,3764 acres, of which
794f are water. The Water of Ken winds 14§ miles
south-south-eastward along all the eastern boundary,
broadening to 3| furlongs in Loch Ken, below which
it joins the Dee ; and the Dee itself, from \ mile below
its efflux from Loch Dee, flows 18^ miles east-south-
eastward along the south-western and southern bor-
der, and traverses triangular Stroan Loch (4 x 2§
furl. ; 225 feet). Pulmaddy Burn runs 6| miles east-
by-southward along the northern boundary to the Ken,
whose principal affluent from the interior is Pul-
harrow Burn, running 5§ miles east-south-eastward out
of Loch Harrow (3 x 1^ furl. ; 850 feet). Two other
lakes, communicating with Pulharrow Burn, are Lochs
Dungeon (6x2 furl. ; 1025 feet) and Minnoch (2 x 1^
furl. ; 870 feet). The surface is everywhere hilly or
mountainous, sinking to close on 100 feet above sea-
level at tlie SE corner of the parish, where the Ken falls
into the Dee, and thence rising north-westward to 1066
at Cairn Edward, 1616 at Cairnsraore or Blackcraig of
Dee, 1248 at Beunan, 2446 at Meikle Millyea, 2350 at
Millfire, and 2668 at Corserine — heath}'^ summits these
of the Rhynns of Kells that command a magnificent
view. The entire tract along the Ken is eminently
beautiful, exhibiting in its upper parts a reach of
narrow vale, flanked and overlooked by grassy or wooded
slopes, and by romantic ravines and hills, and expand-
ing in its lower part, especially along Loch Ken, into
a fertile alluvial flat, screened and overhung by parks
and verdant ujilands. Much of the interior, to the
S of the Rhynns, is supposed to have been a hunt-
ing-ground, first of the Lords of Galloway, afterwards
of the Kings of Scotland. It retains some stunted
remains of an ancient and very large forest, and includes
the two farms of Upper and Nether Forest, patches of
wood called the King's Forest, and a large meadow, the
King's Holm. Granite is a predominant rock ; excellent
slates were formerly quarried in the NE ; iron ore
abounds in one locality ; and lead ore occurs on Glenlee
and Kenmure estates, and was formerly mined. The

KELLY

soil of the alluvial tract along the Ken is so rich, that,
in the da)'s prior to modern agricultural impi'ovement,
it bore crops for twenty-iive successive years without
other manure than the Ken's natural deposits, but else-
where the soil is exceedingly various, and graduates
towards the hills and mountains into worthless moor
or bare rock. The chief antiquities are a large rocking
stone on one of the heights of the Rliynns, vestiges of a
defensive wall extending southward thi'ough great part
of the parish, and a stone in the churchyard to the
memory of Adam M'Whan, who was shot for his adher-
ence to the Covenant in 1685. Natives were Thomas
Gordon (1690-1750), political writer ; Robert Heron
(1764-1807), a calamitous author; and the Rev. William
Gillespie (1776-1825), a minor poet and minister of
Kells from 1801 till his death. Mansions, noticed
separately, are Kenmure Castle, Glenlee, Ballingear,
Garroch, Stranfasket, and Knocknalling ; and 4 pro-
prietors hold each an annual value of £500 and upwards,
4 of between £100 and £500, 2 of from £50 to £100, and
13 of from £20 to £50. Kells is in the presbytery of
Kii-kcudbright and synod of Galloway ; the living is
worth £340. The parish church, { mile N by W of
New Gallowa}', is a neat stone building of 1822, with a
square tower and 560 sittings ; and Kells public school,
with accommodation for 193 children, had (1881) an
average attendance of 123. and a grant of £115, 15s.
Valuation (1860) £6831, (1883) £10,253, 12s. 6d. Pop.
(1801) 771, (1831) 1128, (1861) 1170, (1871) 1007, (18S1)
970.— Ord. Sur., shs. 9, 8, 5, 1857-63.

Kelly, a rivulet of E Aberdeenshire, running 5h miles
east-north-eastward, chiefly along the boundary between
Methlick and Tarves parishes, and falling into the
Ythan 1| mile ENE of Haddo House. One of the
Crown jewels, a highly valuable pearl, is said to have
been found at the mouth of this stream, and presented
in 1620 to James XL— Ord. Siir., sh. 87, 1876.

Kelly Castle, a grey old tower in Arbirlot parish, For-
farshire, on a high rock above the right bank of Elliot
"Water, 3 miles WSW of Arbroath. Held by the Auchter-
louies from 1444 till 1630, it came in 1679 to the Earl
of Panmure, an ancestor of the Dalhousie family.
Now uninhabited, yet scarcely ruinous, it presents a
picturesque aspect. Near it stands modern Kelly Castle.
—Ord. Sur., sh. 49, 1865.

Kelly House, a plain, white mansion, with beautiful
pleasure-grounds, in Innerkip parish, W Renfrewshire,
within 3 furlongs of the Firth of Clyde and | mile NNE
of AVemyss Bay station. The estate was held by the
Bannatynes from the latter half of the 15th century till
1792, when it was purchased by John "Wallace, Esq.,
whose son, Robert (1773-1855), represented Greenock
from 1833 to 1845, and almost disputes with Rowland
HiU the parentage of the penny post. Towards the
close of his parliamentary career, he found himself
forced to sell Kelly, which in 1867 was purchased by
the eminent chemist, Dr James Young, F. R.S. (1811-83),
owner in Renfrew and Ayr shires of 740 acres, valued at
£993 per annum. (See also Duefjs. ) He added a
large picture gallery to the house, which was built
by Mr John Wallace in 1793, and much enlarged
by his son. One of Livingstone's early friends, Dr
Young in 1875 entertained for a fortnight the two
African servants of the great explorer ; and in the
gi-ounds here they reared a facsimile of the hut they
had built for their master to die in. Kelly Burn, rising
at an altitude of 880 feet above sea-level, hurries 3f
miles west-south-westward to the Firth, chiefly along
the Ayrshire boundary. It flows through a narrow
beautifully wooded glen, overhung by liills 700 to 900
feet high ; and gives to these hills the name of Kelly-
burn Braes, sung in a quaint old satirical song, which
was altered by Burns. — Ord. Sur., sh. 29, 1873.

Kelso, a Border town and parish of NE Roxburgh-
shire. The town, which lies, at an altitude of from 100
to 142 feet above sea-level, on the left or N bank of the
curving Tweed, opposite the Teviot's influx, by road is
8f miles WSW of Coldstream, 42 SE of Edinburgh, and
f mile N by W of Kelso station on a branch of the

KELSO

North British, this being 52 miles SE of Edinburgh,
Hi E by N of St Boswells, and 23 WSW of Berwick-
on-Tweed. From the station one enters across the fine
five-arch bridge, erected by Rennie in 1800-3 at a cost
of £17,802. This, the first bridge with the elliptic
arch, may be said to have marked a new era in bridge-
building, and was taken by its architect as his model
for AVaterloo Bridge in London. With a length of 494
feet including the approaches, it has a level roadway
23^ feet wide and 30 feet above the ordinary level of
the river. Its arclies, each 72 feet in span, are separated
by piers of 14 feet in thickness ; and on either side it
exhibits six sets of double three-quarter Roman-Doric
columns, surmounted by a block cornice and balustrade.
The former bridge, built in 1754 at a cost of £3000, and
swept away by the great flood of 26 Oct. 1797, is alluded
to in Burns's Border Tour, under date 9 May 1787 : —
' Breakfast at Kelso ; charming situation ; fine bridge
over the Tweed ; enchanting views and prospects on
both sides of the river, particularly the Scotch side.'
And one learns that the poet was so impressed with the
scene, that he reverently uncovered, and breathed a
prayer to the Almighty. Scott, too, has left on record
how he could trace hither the awakening within him-
self ' of that love of natural scenery, more especially
when combined with ancient ruins or remains of our
fathers' piety or splendour, which ' was in him ' an in-
satiable passion ; ' and Leyden's Scenes of Infancy depicts
this landscape with a truth that attests the power of its
charm : —

' Teviot, farewell ! tor now tliy silver tide
Comniix'd with Tweed's pellucid stream shall glide;
But all thy green and pastoral beauties fail
To match the softness of thy jiarting vale.
Eosom'd in woods, where mighty rivers run,
Kelso's fair vale expands before the sun :
Its rising downs in vernal beauty swell,
And, fringed with hazel, wnds each flowery dell ;
Green spangled plains to dimpling lawns succeed.
And Temp6 rises on the banks of Tweed :
Blue o'er the river Kelso's shadow lies.
And copse-clad isles amid the waters rise ;
Where Tweed her silent way majestic holds.
Float the thin gales in more transparent folds.'

Fine as the view is from Kelso Bridge, that from
Chalkheugh Terrace is almost finer — the meeting of the
Teviot and the Tweed ; St James's Fair Green ; March-
mound, with the fragment of Roxburgh Castle ; Spring-
wood Park ; the Abbey ; Floors Castle, its lawns and
woods ; the Waterloo Monument on distant Peniel-
heugh ; and, further still, the triple height of Eildon.
Nor is Kelso itself unworthy of its environs, comprising
a spacious central square, four streets diverging thence
in diff"erent ways, two smaller squares, and a number of
minor cross streets, whose airiness, neatness, and well-
to-do houses, roofed mth blue slate, and built of a light-
coloured stone, entitle it still, as in 1547, to Patten's
description — 'a pretty market-town.' The Kelso, how-
ever, of Patten's day extended beyond the western limits
of the present town into ground included now in the
park of Floors Castle, where the site of its cross may
still be traced. Long a mere village, a sort of suburb
to Roxburgh on the opposite side of the Tweed, it rose
eventually to the condition of a small town, and came
to be known as Wester Kelso. Another small town,
distinguished as Easter Kelso, with Kelso Abbey for its
nucleus, was gradually extended westward into junction
with Wester Kelso, and, on the destruction of Roxburgh
in 1460, succeeded that ancient and important burgh as
a centre of trade and of political and social influence on
the Eastern Border. The great conflagration of March
1684 reduced Wester Kelso to ashes ; but it was at its
cross, on 24 Oct. 1715, that the Old Chevalier was pro-
claimed, amid shouts of ' No union ! no malt tax ! no
salt tax ! '

The gas company was started in 1831 ; but on 5 Feb.
1818 the fishmonger's shop in Bridge Street, formerly
oflice of the Kelso Chronicle, and tenanted then by an in-
genious coppersmith, was lighted with gas, this being
its earliest introduction to Scotland. In 1866, under
the direction of Mr Brunlees, C.E., a native of Kelso,

343

KELSO

the town was drained, and a gravitation water supply
pumped by steam from the Tweed, at a cost of £7000.
The Town Hall, on the E side of the Market Place, is a
tetrastyle Ionic edifice of 1816, with a piazza basement
and a cupola. The Com Exchange, in the "Wood
Jlarket, was built by subscription at a cost of £3000 in
1856 from designs by Mr Cousins. Tudor in style, it
measures 124 by 57 feet, contains 71 stalls, and is some-
times used for lectures, concerts, and balls. The parish
church, near the abbey, built in 1773, and much altered
in 1823 and 1833, is an octagonal structure, containing
1314 sittings, and has 'the peculiarity of being without
exception the ugliest of all the parish churches in Scot-
land, but an excellent model for a circus. ' The North
quoad sacra parish church, a Gothic building, with 750
sittings and a conspicuous tower, was erected in 1837 at
a cost of £3460 for the Establishment, to which it
reverted in 1866, after having for twenty-three years
belonged to the Free Church. The present Free church,
on the E side of Roxburgh Street, facing the Tweed,
was built in 1865-67 at a cost of £6000 for Horatius
Bonar, D.D. , the well-known hymn-writer, who, or-
dained at Kelso in 1S37, was a minister there for
upwards of thirty years. Decorated in style, with 750
sittings and a lofty spire, it is not unlike the Barclay
Church at Edinburgh, and forms a striking feature in
the landscape. Other places of worship are East Free
church (1844, remodelled in 1883 ; 500 sittings), the
First U.P. church (1788; 950 sittings), the East U.P.
church (1793, remodelled in 1S77 ; 475 sittings), the
Baptist chapel (1878 ; 350 sittings), St Andrew's Epis-
copal church (1868; 214 sittings), and the Roman Catholic
church of the Immaculate Conception (1858 ; 230 sit-
tings). The last succeeded a cottage chapel, burned by
a mob on 6 Aug. 1856 ; while St Andrew's, a Geometric
Gothic structure, near the Tweed's bank above the
bridge, superseded a chapel of 1756, whose congregation
dated from the Revolution. Kelso High School, at the
E end of the town, is a handsome red sandstone edifice
of 1877-78, and comprises a large hall 70 feet long, with
class-rooms attached, and dormitories above for 30
boarders. It has higher-class, middle, and elementary
departments, and is conducted by a rector and 6
assistants. At the old grammar school, adjoining the
abbey. Sir Walter Scott in 1783 was the six months'
school-fellow of James and John Ballantyne ; its site is
now occupied by a fine new public school (1879). There
are also the Duchess of Roxburghe's school (1817), the
Bowmont Street infant school (1880), and two young
ladies' seminaries.

Shedden Park, at the E end of the town, was pre-
sented to the inhabitants in 1851 by the late Mrs
Robertson of Ednam House, and took its name in memory
of her nephew, Robert Shedden (1820-49), who perished
in the search for Sir John Franklin. Comprising an
area of fully 8 acres, it adds greatly to the attractions
and amenity of Kelso ; is maintained from the rental of
a number of dwelling-houses and gardens, given by Mrs
Robertson for that and for other benevolent purposes ;
and has a handsome entrance gateway, erected by public
subscription, in gratitude for the gift. Immediately
beyond is the beautiful cemetery, the ground for which
was gifted to the town by the late Duke of Roxhurghe.
Kelso Library, a handsome edifice in Chalkheugh Ter-
race, overlooking the Tweed, and commanding a very
beautiful view, contains a valuable collection of books,
first formed in 1750, and now comprising over 7000
volumes, the most interesting of which is the identical
copy of Percy's Rcliqucs that entranced the boj'hood of
Sir "Walter Scott. The adjoining Tweedside Physical
and Antiquarian Society's Museum (1834), with frontage
towards Roxburgh Street, is a massive two-story build-
ing ; contains a fine collection of stuffed birds of the dis-
trict, some portraits, relics of Sir "Walter Scott, etc. ;
and is open free to the public on Monday, "Wednesday,
and Friday. The Dispensary, occupying a healthy and
airy site in Roxburgh Street, was founded in 1777, and
enlarged and provided with baths in 1818. The Union
Pooihouse (1853), which has had on average of 10 years
344

KELSO

20 inmates, is a neat and spacious building, with ac-
commodation for 70 inmates, and is situated in the
' Tannage ' field, to the N of the North Parish church.
The Parochial Board offices are in Bowmont Street, to
the "W of the Poorhouse. The number of paupers upon
the roll is generally about 100, and the assessment
is at present Is. 7d. per £, raising a total of over
£2000. Amongst other institutions are the Billiard and
Reading-room (1855), the New Billiard and Reading-
room (1852), the Mechanics Institute (1866) ; the Border
Union Agricultural Society, established as the Border
Society in 1812, united with the Tweedside Society in
1820, and yearly holding a stock and sheep show on
5 Aug., a bull show in spring, and a great sale of
Border Leicester and Cheviot rams in September ; an
Association for the Analysing of Manures and the Test-
ing of Seeds (among the first of the kind instituted in
Scotland) ; the Horticultural Society, under the patron-
age of the Duke of Roxburghe, and holding a great show
in September ; the Poultry Exhibition (1881), a Dog
Society (1883), a Cycling Club (1883), the Total Abstin-
ence Society (1862), three Good Templar lodges, and a
Rechabite tent ; two lodges of Freemasons (1815),
Foresters (1845), and Oddfellows (1841); the Choral
Union (1864), the Cricket Club (1850), the Border Cricket
Club (1854), the Bowling Club (1818), the Quoiting Club
(1851), the Curling Club (1790), the Angling Association
(1859), and the Border Racing Club (1854). The Kelso
I'aces are held annually for two days in the beginning of
October on a racecourse 9 furlongs N of the town,
which, formed in 1822 out of what was once a morass,
is perhaps the finest in Scotland ; and the Border
steeplechases are run in April partly on the racecourse.
Kelso has a post office, with money order, savings'
bank, insurance, and railway telegraph departments,
branches of the Bank of Scotland, and of the British
Linen Co., Commercial, National, and Royal banks, a
National Security savings' bank (1849), offices or agencies
of 20 insurance companies, the Cross Keys (1760) and 5
other hotels, and 2 weekly newspapers, the "Wednesday
Conservative Kelso Mail (1797) and the Liberal Friday
Kelso Chronicle (1832). A weeklj- general and corn
market is held on Friday, a fortnightly auction stock
sale on Monday ; and the follo\\ang is a list of the fairs —
horses, second Friday of March ; wool, second Friday of
July ; St James's Fair, of very ancient origin, and long
of great importance, but now little else than a pleasure
fair, held on the Friar's Haugh, on the right bank of
the Tweed, opposite Floors Castle, 5 Aug. , or if a Sunday,
the Monday following ; tups, second Friday of Septem-
ber ; cattle and ewes, 24 Sept., or if a Sunday, the
previous Saturday ; hinds and herds hiring, first Friday
of March ; sheai'ers' port, every Monday during harvest ;
young men's and women's hiring, first Friday of May
and November. The sale of corn in the weekly market
is very great ; and that of Border Leicester rams at the
September fair is greater than at an}- other mart in the
kingdom, viz., from 1405 to 1573 in the four years
1879-82, when the highest price reached was £160 in
1879 for a ram of Lord Polwarth's rearing. Formerly
Kelso was famous for its shoes, its leather, its blue
bonnets, and the produce of its handloom-weavers ;
later it ranked second only to Dumfries in pork-curing ;
but now the town mainly depends on its coach-building
establishments, fishing-tackle manufactories, cabinet and
upholstery works, dutj'-free warehouses for wines and
spirits, extensive nursery gai-dens, corn, manure, and
saw mills, agricultural machinery, iron foundry, and
Wooden woollen-mills, whose trade in tweeds, blankets,
and plaidings has much revived since 1880. The
original Chronicle, published by 'Blackneb' Palmer
Irom 1783* to 1803, with its antidote, the existing
Mail, started by James Ballantyne in 1797, was among
the earliest Scottish newspapers, its only provincial
senior being the Aberdeen JournaX (1748). Palmer was

* Kelso can boast of hainnj: had a newspaper published in it at
least weekly for upwards of a hundred years, the centenary of the
founding of the newspaper press in the town having occurred in
February, 1SS3.

KELSO

printing books as early as 1782, one large volume,
noteworthy for its typography, being still not seldom
met with in the private libraries in the town ; and
from the Ballantyne press here the two first volumes
of Scott's Border Minstrelsy came out in 1S02, towards
the close of which year James Ballantyne removed to
Edinburgh. 'When the book appeared, the imprint
" Kelso " was read with wonder by connoisseurs of tj'po-
graphj", who had probably never heard of such a place,
and were astonished at the specimen of handsome print-
ing which so obscure a town had produced : it was re-
ceived ^Tith the exclamation, "What a beautiful book ! " '
{History of the Ballantyne Press, Edinb. 1S71). Kelso's
printing traditions have since been worthilj' maintained
by Messrs Rutherfurd, among whose publications may
be noticed Hunter's History of ColdingJiam (1858), the
Southern Counties Register (1866), the Border Abncmac
(1867, etc.), Stoddart's Songs of the Seasons (1874), the
Autobiography of John Younger (1882), four or five
works by the Rev. John Thomson, Hawick, and the
centenary edition of the poetical works of Dr John
Leyden. They also issued some of Dr Bonar's works,
including the once celebrated Kelso Tracts, which
were the first of his productions to bring him into
notice as an author.

A free burgh of barony since 1634, and a police bnrgh
under the General Police and Improvement Act (Scot-
land) of 1861, the town is governed by a chief magistrate,
2 junior magistrates, and 9 other police commissioners.
Police courts are held as occasion requires ; sheriff small
debt courts on the Fridays after the second Mondays of
February, April, June, and December, and after the
last Monday of July and the last Tuesday of September ;
and justice of peace courts on the second Wednesday of
every month. The police force since 1881 has been
included in that of the county ; and the prison was
closed in 1878. The municipal voters numbered 800 in
1883, when the annual value of real property amounted
to £23,580, whilst the revenue, including assessments,
is £2000. Pop. (1851) 4783, (1861) iBO'J, (1871) 4564,
(1881) 46S7, of whom 2510 were females. Houses (1881)
1085 inhabited, 23 vacant, 6 building.

Of Kelso Abbey Dr Hill Burton writes, in Billings'
Baronial and. Ecclesiastical Antiquities (1852), that 'in
the rich wooded vale where the Teviot meets the Tweed, a
huge ruin, partly Norman and partly of the earlier pointed
Gothic, frowns over the pleasant market town, more like
a fortified castle than the residence of peaceful monks,
devoted to unambitious repose. The massive tower of
the building, with comer projections, which are rather
towers than buttresses, has a great deal of the baronial
in its character, and probably has a closer resemblance
to a Xorraan castle than any other building in Scotland ;
for, in the purely baronial remains in the North, there
is no well-authenticated specimen of the Norman form.
It will be seen that the history of this house has been
too much in conformity with its warlike architecture,
and that, situated so close to the dividing line between
two fierce inimical nations, it had an unquiet career.
One wonders, indeed, that after the perils and outrages
it has incurred, so large a mass of it should still remain ;
and we can see that there mast have been sound judg-
ment in the Norman builder who environed the spiritual
brethren with such ample means of carnal defence. ' The
minster, forming a Latin cross, ^vith the head to the W,
consisted of a large Galilee or ante-church, 23 feet square,
in lieu of a nave ; an aisleless transept, 71 by 23 feet ; an
aisled choir, 61 feet wide, and extending into a presby-
tery and Lady chapel of indeterminate length ; and a
central tower, 91 feet high and 23 square, surmounting
the crossing. Thereof is left part of the W front, the
transept, two bays of the choir, and the S and W sides
of the tower. 'The two round-headed arches on the S
side of the choir spring from massive piers with circular
side pilasters and boldly projecting capitals ; but the
two extant tower arches, 45 feet high, are exquisite speci-
mens of Early Pointed. The side walls have intersect-
ing arcades, with rich ornamentation ; the shallow N
porch {circa 1150), obliquely recessed, with an interlac-
59

KELSO

ing arcade and pediment above the arch, filled with a
network pattern, has the character of a deep doorway.
The western archway, half of which now is gone, is
lavishly sculptured, and oflers a striking example of the
mixed richness and symmetry of Norman decoration.
Nothing is left of the abbot's hall, the gatehouse, the
dormitory, and other ofiices ; but the extant remains are
sufficient to warrant Cosmo Innes' assertion that ' the
beautiful and somewhat singular architecture of the
ruined church of Kelso Abbey still gives proof of taste
and skill and some science in the builders, at a period
which the confidence of modern times has proclaimed
dark and degraded ; and if we could call up to the fancy
the magnificent abbey and its interior decorations, to
correspond with what remains of that ruined pile, we
should find works of art that might well exercise the
talents of high masters. Kelso bears marks of having
been a full century in building ; and during all that
time at least, perhaps for long afterwards, the carver
of wood, the sculptor in stone and marble, the tile-
worker, and the lead and iron worker, the painter
(whether of Scripture stories or of heraldic blazonings),
the designer, and the Avorker in stained glass for those
gorgeous windows which we now vainly try to imitate —
must each have been put in requisition, and each, in
the exercise of his art, contributed to raise the taste and
cultivate the minds of the inmates of the cloister. Of
many of these works the monks themselves were the
artists and artisans.'

In 1113 David, Earl of Huntingdon, brought thirteen
reformed Benedictine monks from the newly founded abbey
of Tiron in Picardy, and planted them on the banks of
the Ettrick beside"^his Forest castle of Selkirk. In 1126,
the year after David's accession to the throne, this
Tironensian abbey of SS. Mary and John was translated
from Selkirk to ' the place called Calkou,' and here its
conventual church was founded on 3 May 1128, Rox-
burgh then being in the zenith of prosperity. David,
and all his successors down to James V., lavished on
Kelso Abbey royal favours. Whether in wealth, in
political influence, or in ecclesiastical status, it main-
tained an eminence of grandeur which dazzles the
student of history. The priory of Lesmahagow and its
valuable dependencies, 33 parish chui'ches, with their
tithes and other pertinents, in nearly every district (save
Galloway and East Lothian) S of the Clyde and the
Forth, the parish church of Culter in Aberdeenshire, all
the forfeitures within the town and county of Berwick,
several manors and vast numbers of farms, granges,
mills, fishings, and miscellaneous property athwart the
Lowlands, so swelled its revenues as to raise them to
£3716 per annum. The abbots were superiors of the
regality of Kelso, Boldeu, and Reverden, frequent am-
bassadors and special commissioners of the royal court,
and the first ecclesiastics on the roll of parliament,
taking precedence of all other abbots in the kingdom.
Herbert, third abbot of Selkirk and first of Kelso, was
celebrated for his learning and talent, and having filled
the office of chamberlain of Scotland, in 1147 was trans-
lated to the see of Glasgow. Arnold, his successor,
in 1160, was made bishop of St Andrews, and in 1161
the legate of the Pope in Scotland. In 1152 Henry,
the only son of David, and heir-apparent of the throne,
died at 'Roxburgh Castle, and, with pompous obsequies,
was buried in the abbey. In 1160 John, precentor ot
the monastery, was elected abbot, and in 1165 he ob-
tained from Rome the privilege of a mitred abbey for
himself and his successors. Osbert, who succeeded him
in 1180, was despatched in 1182 at the head of several
influential ecclesiastics and others, to negotiate between
the Pope and William the Lyon, and succeeded in obtain-
ing the removal of an excommunication which had been
laid on the kingdom, and in procuringforthe King expres-
sions of papal favour. In 1215 Abbot Henry was sum-
moned to Rome, along with three Scottish bishops, to at-
tend the Fourth Lateran Council. In 1236 Herbert, who
fifteen years before had succeeded to the abbacy, performed
an act of abdication more rare by far among the wealthier
wearers of mitres than among the harassed owners of

345

KELSO

diadems; and, solemnly placing the insignia of his
office on the high altar, passed into retirement. Edward
I. of England, having seized all ecclesiastical property
in Scotland, received in 1296 the submission of the
Abbot of Kelso, and gave him letters ordering full resti-
tution. In consequence of a treaty between Robert
Bruce and Edward III., Kelso Abbey shared in 1328
mutual restitutions with the English monasteries of pro-
perty which had changed owners during the inter-
national wars. In 1420 the abbot, having his right of
superiority over all other abbots of Scotland, contested
by the Abbot of St Andrews, by lormal adjudication of
the King was compelled to resign it, on the ground of
the abbey of St Andrews being the first established in
the kingdom. In 1493 Abbot Robert was appointed
by parliament one of the auditors of causes and com-
plaints. On the night after the battle of Flodden
(1513) an emissary of Lord Hume expelled the abbot, and
took possession of the abbey. In 1517 and 1521 Abbot
Thomas was a plenipotentiary to the Court of England ;
and in 1526 he was commissioned to exchange with
Henryor his commissioners ratifications of the peace of the
previous year. On 20 June 1523 the English demolished
the vaults of the abbey and its chapel or church of St
Mary, fired all the cells and dormitories, and unroofed
every part of the edifice. Other inroads of the national
foe preventing immediate repair or restoration, the
abbey, for a time, crumbled towards total decay ; and
the monks, reduced to comparative poverty, skulked
among the neighbouring villages. From 1536 till his
death in 1558, James Stuart, the natural son of James
v., nominally filled the office of abbot, and was the
last who bore the title. The abbeys of Melrose, Holy-
rood, St Andrews, and Coldingham were, at the same
date as the abbey of Kelso, bestowed on James's illegiti-
mate offspring; and, jointly with it, they brought the
royal family an amount of revenue little inferior to that
yielded by all the possessions and resources of the Crown.
In 1542, iinder the Duke of Norfolk, and again in 1545,
under the Earl of Hertford, the English renewed their
spoliations on the abbey, and almost entirely destroyed
it by fire. On the latter occasion, it was resolutely de-
fended by 12 monks and 90 other Scotsmen, but, cannon
being brought up, a breach was opened, apparently in
the conventual buildings. ' The assault was given to
the Spaniards, but, when they rushed in, they found
the place cleared. The nimble garrison had run to the
strong square tower of the church, and there again they
held out. Night came before they could be dislodged
from this their last citadel, so the besiegers had "to
leave the assault till the morning, setting a good watch
all night about the house, M'hich was not so well kept
but tiiat a dozen of the Scots, in the darkness of the
night, escaped by ropes out at back windows and
comers, with no little danger of their lives. AVhen
the day came, and the steeple eftsoons assaulted,
it was immediately won, and as many Scots slain as
were within"' (Hill Burton's ITM Scotl., iii. 242, ed.
1876). In 1560 the remnant of the brotherhood was
expelled, and the abbey wrecked, by Reformers. Its
vast possessions, becoming now Crown property, were
in 1594 distributed among the favourites of James VI.,
who, by a charter of 1607, erected the abbacy into the
lordship and barony of Halidean, comprising the town
and lands of Kelso. Rudely ceiled over, with a tliatched
prison above, the transept served as the parish church
from 1649 to 1771, when, part of the roof giving way
during service one Sunday, the people ran out, expecting
the fulfilment of Thomas the Rhymer's prediction that
the kirk should fall at the fullest. In 1805 the ruins
were cleared of unsightly additions ; and in 1866 they
were placed in a state of thorough repair by the late
Duke of Roxburgh e.

In the 12th century Kelso was known as Calkou or
Calchou, a name which Chalmers identified with Chalk-
heugh ('chalk height'), a precipitous bank with strata
of gypsum cropping to the surface ; but, according to
Professor Veitch, its name was Calchvynyd in the old
Cymric times. Of events not noticed under our history
846

KELSO

of the abbey and of Roxbukoh, the earliest on record
occurred in 1209, when, a Papal interdict being im-
posed upon England, the Bishop of Rochester left his
see, and took refuge in Kelso. Ten years later William
de Valoines, Lord Chamberlain of Scotland, diea in the
town. In 1255 Henry III. of England and his queen,
during a visit to their son-in-law and daughter, Alex-
ander III. and his royal consort, at Roxburgh Castle,
were introduced with great pomp to Kelso and its abbey,
and entertained, with the chief nobility of both king-
doms, at a sumptuous banquet. In 1297 Edward I., at
the head of his vast army of invasion, having entered
Scotland and relieved the siege of Roxburgh, passed the
Tweed at Kelso on his way to seize Berwick. Truces,
in the years 1380 and 1391, were made at Kelso between
the Scottish and the English kings. On the death of
James II. by the bursting of a cannon at the siege of Rox-
burgh Castle (1460), his infant son, James III. , being then
with his mother in the camp, was carried by the nobles,
in presence of the assembled army, to the abbey, and
there crowned and treated with royal honours. In 1487
commissioners met at Kelso to prolong a truce for the
conservation of peace along the unsettled Border terri-
tory, and to concoct measui'es preliminary to a treaty of
marriage between the eldest son of James III. and the
eldest daughter of Edward IV. The disastrous results
of the battle of Flodden, in 1513, seem — in consequence
of James IV. 's death, and of the loss of the protection
which his authority and presence had given — to have,
in some way, temporarily enthralled the town to Lord
Hume, and occasioned, as we have already seen, the
expulsion of the abbot from his monaster}^ — the first
of a series of events which terminated in the ruin of the
pile. In 1515 the Duke of Albany, acting as regent,
visited Kelso in the course of a progress of civil pacifi-
cation, and received grave depositions respecting the
oppressive conduct of Lord Hume, the Earl of Angus,
and other barons. In 1520 Sir James Hamilton, march-
ing with 400 men from the Merse to the assistance of
Andrew Kerr, Baron of Fernieherst, in a dispute with
the Earl of Angus, was overtaken at Kelso by the Baron
of Cessford, then Warden of the Marches, and defeated
in a brief battle.

In 1522 Kelso, and the country between it and the
German Ocean, received the first lashings of the scourge
of war in the angry invasion of Scotland by the army of
Henry VIII. One portion of the English forces having
marched into the interior from their fleet in the Forth,
and having formed a junction with another portion
which hung on the Border under Lord Dacre, the
united forces, among other devastations, destroj'ed one-
half of Kelso by fire, plundered the other half, and in-
flicted merciless havoc upon not a few parts of the abbey.
So irritating were their deeds, that the men of Merse
and Teviotdale came headlong on them in a mass, and
showed such inclination, accompanied with not a little
power, to make reprisals, that the devastators prudently
retreated within their own frontier. After the rupture
between James V. and Henry VIII., the Earl of Huntly,
who had been appointed guardian of the Marches, gar-
risoned Kelso and Jedburgh, and in August 1542 set out
from these towns in search of an invading force of 3000
men imder Sir Robert Bowes, fell in with them at
Hadden Rig, and, after a hard contest, broke down
their power and captured their chief officers. A more
numerous army being sent northward by Henry, under
the Duke of Norfolk, and James stationing himself
with a main army of defence on Fala Moor, the Earl of
Huntly received detachments which augmented his force
to 10,000 men, and so checked the invaders along the
Marches as to preserve the open country from devasta-
tion. In spite of his strenuous efforts, Kelso and some
villages in its vicinity were entered, plumlered, and
given up to the flames ; and they were eventually de-
livered from ruinous spoliation only by the foe being
forced by want of provisions and the inclemency of the
season to retreat into their own territory. When
Henry VIII. 's fury against Scotland was kindled anew
about the proposed marriage of the infant Queen Mary

KELSO

and Prince Edward of England, an English army, in
1544, entered Scotland by the Eastern Marches, plun-
dered and destroyed Kelso and Jedburgh, and ravaged
and burned the villages and houses in their neighbour-
hood. This army having been dispersed, another 12,000
strong, specially selected for their enterprise, and led
on by the Earl of Hertford, next year trod the same
path as the former invaders, and inflicted fearful devas-
tation on Merse and Teviotdale. They plundered anew
the towns of Kelso and Jedburgh, wasted their abbeys,
and also those of Melrose and Dryburgh, and burned 100
towns and villages. While Kelso was sufiering the in-
lliction of their rage, 100 men, as mentioned in onv notice
of the abbey, made bold but vain resistance within the
precincts of that pile. The Scottish army shortly after
came up, and took post at Maxwellheugh, intending to
retaliate ; but they were spared the horrors of inflicting
or enduring further bloodshed by the retreat of the
invaders.

In 1553 a resolution was suggested by the Queen
Regent, adopted by parliament, and backed by the
appointment of a tax of £20,000, leviable in equal parts
from the spiritual and the temporal estates, to build a
fort at Kelso for the defence of the Boi'ders ; but it
appears to have soon been dropped. In 1557 the Queen
Regent, having wantonly, at the instigation of the King
of France, provoked a war with England, collected a
numerous army for aggression and defence on the Border.
Under the Earl of Arrau, the army, joined by an
auxiliary force from France, marched to Kelso, and
encamped at Maxwellheugh ; but, having made some
vain eff"orts to act efficiently on the off"ensive, was all
withdrawn, except a detachment left in garrison at
Kelso and Roxburgh to defend the Borders. Hostilities
continuing between the kingdoms. Lord James Stuart,
the illegitimate son of James V., Iniilt a house of defence
at Kelso, and thi'ew up fortifications around the town.
In 1558 the detachment of the army stationed at Kelso
marched out to chastise an incursion, in the course of
which the town of Duns was burned, came up with the
English at Swintou, and were defeated. In 1561 Lord
James Stuart was appointed by Queen Mary her lieu-
tenant and judge for the suppression of banditti on the
Borders, and brought upwards of twenty of the most
daring freebooters to trial and execution ; and, about
the same time, he held a meeting at Kelso with Lord
Grey of England for the pacification of the Borders. In
1566, in the course of executing the magnanimous pur-
pose of putting down by her personal presence the Border
maraudings, from which she was wiled by her romantic
and nearly fatal expedition to the Earl of Both well at
Hermitage Castle, Queen Mary visited Kelso on her
way from Jedburgh to Berwick, spent two nights in the
town, and held a council for the settlement of some
dispute. In 1569 the Earl of Moray spent five or six
weeks in Kelso, and had a meeting with Lord Hunsdon
and Sir John Foster, on the part of England. In 1570
an English army entered Scotland in revenge for an in-
cursion of the Lords of Fernieherst and Buccleuch into
England, divided itself into two co-operating sections,
scoured the whole of Teviotdale, levelled 50 castles and
strengths and upwards of 300 villages, and rendezvoused
at Kelso preparatory to its retreat. The Earl of Both-
well, grandson to James V. and commendator of Kelso,
made the town his home during the concocting of his
foul and numerous treasons ; and during ten years suc-
ceeding 1584 deeply embroiled it in the marchings and
military manoeuvrings of the forces with which, first his
partisans, and next himself personally, attempted to
damage the kingdom.

Kelso, in 1639, made a prominent figure in one of the
most interesting events in Scottish history — the repulse
of the armed attempt of Charles I. to force Episcopacy
upon Scotland. The Covenanting army of General
Leslie, numbered variously at from 12,000 to 30,000
men, rendezvoused at Duns, and, marching thence,
established their quarters at Kelso. The King, at the
head of his army, got intelligence at Birks, near Ber-
wick, of the position of the Covenanter.s, and despatched

KELSO

the Earl of Holland, with 1000 cavalry and 3000 in-
fantry, to try their mettle. General Leslie, however,
easily repelled the Earl from Kelso, made a rapid con-
centration of all his own forces, and next day, to the
surprise of the royal camp, took up his station'on Duns
Law. Tlie Covenanters of Scotland and the Parlia-
mentarians of England having made common cause
against Charles I., Kelso was made, in 1644, the depot
of troops for reinforcing General Leslie's army in Eng-
land. Next year the detachment under the ]\Iarquis of
Douglas and the Earl of Airlie, sent by Montrose to
oppose the operations of Leslie in the Merse, marched
to Kelso on their way to the battle-field of Philiphaugh,
where they were cut down and broken by the Cove-
nanters. Two years later the town was the place of
rendezvous to the whole Scottish army after their suc-
cesses in England, and witnessed the disbandment of
six regiments of cavalry after an oath had been exacted
of continued fidelity to the Covenant.

In 1645 Kelso was visited and ravaged by the
plague. In 1648 a hundred English officers arrived
at Kelso and Peebles, in the vain expectation of find-
ing employment by the breaking out of another civil
war. On 22 Oct. 1715 the rebel forces of tlie Pre-
tender— the Highlanders under Macintosh of Borlum,
the Northumbrians under Mr Foster and Lord Derwent-
water, and the men of Nithsdale and Galloway under
Lord Kenmure — rendezvoused in Kelso ; and next day,
being Sunday, the infamous Robert Patten preached to
them at the great kirk on the text, ' The right of the
first-born is his.' They formally proclaimed James
VIII. , and remained three days making idle demon-
strations, till tlie approach of the royal troops under
General Carpenter incited them to march on to Preston.
In 1718 a general commission of Oyer and Terminer sat
at Kelso, as in Perth, Cupar, and Dundee, for the trial
of persons concerned in the rebellion ; but here they
had only one bill, and even it they ignored. In Nov.
1745 the left of the three columns of Prince Charles
Edward's army, on the march from Edinburgh into
England, which was headed by the Chevalier in person,
spent two nights in Kelso, and while here suffered
numerous desertions. From November 1810 till June
1814 Kelso was the abode of a body, never more than
230 in number, of French prisoners on parole. The
only other events that need be noticed are the tremen-
dous floods of 1782, 1797, and 1831 ; the bridge riots of
1854 ; and Queen Victoria's visit to Floors Castle, in
Aug. 1867.

Illustrious natives of Kelso have been the Rev. Wm.
Crawfoi'd (1676-1742), author of Z)!/u!(7 Thoughts ; James
Brown (1709-88), linguist and traveller ; the printers,
James Ballantvue (1772-1833), and his brother John
(1774-1821); Robert Edmonstone (1794-1834), artist;
Sir William Fairbairn, LL.D., F.R.S. (1789-1874^, en-
gineer, who spent the first ten years of his boyhood
here, and, beginning life as a labourer in the building of
Kelso Bridge, was for weeks disabled by a stone falling on
him ; and Lieut. James Henry Scott Douglas (1S57-79),
of Springwood Park, who fell in the Zulu war. The
Rev. James Melville M'Culloch, D.D., educational writer,
was minister from 1832 to 1843 ; and Thomas Tod Stod-
dart (1810-80), angler and poet, resided here from 1836
till his death. 'Beardie,' the Jacobite great-grand-
father of Sir Walter Scott, long resided and died in a
house still existing in the corn market of Kelso. The
tomb containing his remains and those of others of his
family is conspicuous in a detached portion of the
churchyard near the abbey.

The parish of Kelso, containing also the village of
^Maxwellheugh near the station, comprises, on the
Tweed's left bank, the ancient parish of Kelso or St
Mary, formerly in the diocese of St Andrews ; and, on
the Tweed's right bank, the ancient parishes of jMaxwell
and St James, formerly in the diocese of Glasgow. It
is bounded N by Stitchel and Ednam, E by Ednam and
Sprouston, SE by Eckford, SW by Roxburgh, and
W by Makerston and Smailholm. Its utmost length,
from N by W to S by E, is 4J miles ; its breadth varies

347

EELSO

KELTON

between If- and 3J miles ; and its area is o542 acres, of
■which 153^ are water. The Tweed, here a glorious
salmon river, curves 1| mile east-north-eastward along
the Roxburgh border, then 2 miles through the middle
of the parish ; and the Teviot flows If mile north-
north-eastward along the Roxburgh border, and next ^
mile through the interior, till it falls into the Tweed
J mile above Kelso Bridge. The Teviot's average width
is 200 feet, the Tweed's 440 ; but, above and below the
bridge, the channel of the latter river is interrupted liy
two low islets — Kelso and Wooden Anas ; and, above
Kelso Ana, it is ' bridled with a curb of stone ' — the
long mill-cauld ascribed by tradition to Michael Scott's
familiar. Eden "Water runs 7 furlongs eastward along
the northern boundary ; and Wooden Burn, falling into
the Tweed 3i furlongs below the bridge, though only a
rivulet, is noteworthy for its romantic ravine and its
tiny but beautiful waterfall. Along the Tweed the
surface declines to 98 feet above sea-level, thence rising
northward to 2S9 feet near Sydenham, 324 near Stodrig,
and 400 at Easter Muirdean, southward to 281 at South-
field, 306 near Huntershall, 433 at Middle Softlaw,
and 526 at the Eckford boundary. As seen from Sweet-
hope Hill (731 feet), near Stichill House, the entire
parish looks to be part of a broad, rich strath, a plain
intersected by two rivers, and richly adorned with
woods, but from the low ground along the Tweed near
the town it shows itself to be a diversified basin, a
gently receding amphitheatre, low where it is traversed
by the rivers, but cinctured in the distance with sylvan
heights. Trap rocks prevail in the higher grounds, and
sandstone, shale, and marl-limestone in the vales. The
soil on the banks of the rivers is a rich deep loam, in-
cumbent on gravel ; in the north-western district is a
wet clay ; and in the S is thin and wet, on a red
aluminous subsoil. Enclosed plantations cover some
260 acres ; a large extent of ground is disposed in the
planted dells of Pinnacle Hill and Wooden, and in the
splendid parks of Floors and Springwood ; 365 acres
are in permanent pasture ; and all the rest of the land
is either regularly or occasionally in tillage. Several
antiquities of some note that once existed in the land-
ward districts are now reduced to little more than the
sites of a Roman tumulus and Bony Brae near
Wooden, of the ancient churches of Llaxwell and St
James, and of a Maison-Dieu near the right bank of
the Teviot. There is still a well-defined 'kaim' at
Kaimknow, 1^ mile N of Kelso. Mansions are Floors
Castle, Springwood Park, Wooden House, Sydenham
House, Broomlands, Edenside, Ednam House, Eden-
bank, Pinnacle Hill, Rosebank, Tweedbank, Walton
Hall, and Woodside, of which the first four are noticed
separately. The Duke of Roxburghe owns more than
one-half of the entire rental ; but 7 other proprietors
hold each an annual value of £500 and upwards, 19
of between £100 and £500, 48 of from £50 to £100,
and 100 of from £20 to £50. The seat of a presbytery
in the synod of Llerse and Teviotdale, this parish is
ecclesiastically divided into Kelso proper and North
Kelso, the former a living worth £447. The public,
the infant, and the Duchess of Roxburghe's school,
■with respective accommodation for 523, 219, and 177
children, had (1881) an average attendance of 220,
140, and 129, and grants of £214, 193., £93, and
£108, 13s. Valuation (1864) £32,848, 14s. 4d., (1882)
£32,458, 19s. 4d. Pop. (1801) 4196, (1821) 4860,
(1841) 5328, (1861) 5192, (1871) 5124, (1881) 5235, of
whom 2782 were in Kelso proper and 2453 in North
Kelso.— Ore?. Sicr., sh. 25, 1865.

The presbytery of Kelso comprises the old parishes of
Ednam, Kelso, Linton, Makerston, ilorebattle, Nen-
thorn, Roxburgh, Sprouston, Stitchcl, and Yetholm,
and the quoad sacra parish of North Kelso. Pop.
(1871) 12,383, (1881) 12,061, of whom 3241 were com-
municants of the Church of Scotland in 1878. — The
Free Church has a presbytery of Kelso, with 2
churches in Kelso, and 8 in Coldstream, Eccles, Gordon,
Makerston, Morebattle, Nenthorn, Wcstruther, and
Yetholm, which 10 churches together had 1877 members
348

in 1883.— The U.P. Church has a presbytery of Kelso,
with 2 churches in Kelso, 2 in Jedburgh, and 5 in
respectively Greenlaw, Leitholm, Morebattle, Stitchel,
and Yetholm, which 9 churches together had 2788
members in 1881.

See James Haig's Topograjiliical and Historical Account
of the Toion of Kelso (Edinb. 1825) ; Cosmo Innes' Liber
S. Marie de Calchou ; Registrum Cartarum Abhacie
Tironcnsis de Kelso, 1113-1567 (Bannatyne Club, 2 vols.,
Edinb., 1846); and Rutherfurd's Guide to Kelso (Kelso,
1880).

Keltic Bum, a rivulet of central Perthshire, rising at
an altitude of 2200 feet above sea-level, and running 4^
miles south-south-eastward along the mutual border of
Crieff and Monzie parishes, till, after a total descent of
1970 feet, it falls into Shaggie Burn in Monzie Park, If
mile N of Crieff town. At a point 9 furlongs above its
mouth it tumbles over a smooth rocky precipice, 90
feet high, into a pool. Spout Bay, and, going thence
through a thickly-wooded dell, makes several leaps of
about 10 feet, then works its way along a narrow rock-
screened channel. An artificial footpath leads up its
dell to Spout Bay, where a hermitage stands in such
position as to command a full view of the cascade. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 47, 1869.

Keltie Water, a rivulet of Callander parish, Perthshire,
rising at an altitude of 2200 feet on the southern side
of Stuc-a-chroin (3189 feet), adjacent to the meeting-
point of Callander, Balquhidder, and Comrie parishes.
Thence it runs 8| miles south-south-eastward, and 2|
south-by-westward along the Kilmadock border, till,
after a total descent of 2000 feet, it falls into the river
Teith in front of Cambusmore House, 2| miles SE of
Callander town. See Brackland Falls. — Ord. Sur.,
shs. 46, 38, 39, 1869-72.

Keltney Burn, a rivulet of Fortingall parish, Breadal-
bane, NW Perthshire, rising at an altitude of 2700 feet
above sea-level on the northern side of Carn Mairg.
Thence it runs 5§ miles east-by-northward to the boun-
dary with Dull parish, next 3^ miles south-south-
eastward along that boundary, and falls into the river
Lyon IJ mile above that river's confluence with the
Tay. It mostly traverses wild, rugged, romantic
scenery ; and, in the vicinity of Coshieville inn, it
makes a series of picturesque falls, the highest of them
issuing from a dark narrow opening, and leaping 60
feet over perpendicular rocks into a deep gloomy dell. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 55, 1869.

Kelton, a village on the mutual border of Dumfries
and Caerlaverock parishes, Dumfriesshire, on the left
bank of the Nith, 3^ miles SSE of Dumfries. It is an
out-port of Dumfries for vessels unable to go further up
the river ; and it has carried on a small amount of ship-
building.

Kelton, a parish of Kirkcudbrightshire, comprising
the ancient parishes of Kelton, Gelston, and Kirk-
cormack, and containing the post-town and station of
Castle-Douglas, with the villages of Kelton Hill and
Gelston. It is bounded N by Crossmichael, E by
Buittle, SE by Rerwick, SW by Kirkcudbright, and
W by Tongueland and Balmaghie. Its utmost length,
from NNE to SSW, is 7§ miles ; its breadth varies be-
tween 7^ furlongs and 5h miles ; and its area is 11,424|
acres, of which 202^ are water. Carlinwark Loch
(6x3 furl. ; 145 feet) lies immediatelyS of Castle-Douglas,
and sends off Carlinwark Lane 1| mile north-westward
along the Crossmichael border to the Dee, which itself
flows 6| miles south-south-westward along all the
western boundary, and is fed from the interior by
Mill, Black, Auchlane, and other burns. Along it, in
the extreme S, the surface declines to less than 200
feet above sea-level, thence rising to 500 feet at the
Fell, 400 at Over Arkland, 1125 at Screel Hill, 675 at
Dungyle Camp, and 300 at Kelton Hill, of which Screel
Hill "commands extensive and brilliant views. Silurian
rocks are predominant ; soft argillaceous strata lie inter-
posed with strata of hard compact greywacke ; porj)hyry
occasionally occurs in veins or dykes ; granite is found
in the N ; and ironstone of superior quality is plentiful,

KELTON HILL

but has never been worked on account of the dearth of
coal. The soil, generally thin, in some places is a fine
loam, and in others, especially on the small conical
hills, is a deep watery till. Mosses of considerable ex-
tent are in various places, and exhibit remains of an
ancient forest. About one-fourth of the entire area is
under cultivation ; plantations cover some 630 acres,
and the rest of the land is either pastoral or waste.
The chief antiquities are remains of a Caledonian stone
circle on Ton-s Farm ; the Caledonian hill fort of
DuNGYLE ; another ancient stone fort, 68 paces in
diameter, at a short distance from that on Duugyle ;
a Roman tripod found on Mid Kelton farm ; a sarco-
phagus, 7 feet long, found in a tumulus near Gelston ;
a number of curious small antiquities found in a morass
on Torrs Farm and in Carlinwark Loch ; the Gallows
Slote, on which the victims of feudal tyranny were tor-
tured or executed, adjacent to the AV side of Carlinwark
Loch ; a moat in the western vicinity of Gelston Castle ;
and vestiges or ruins of the ancient churches of Kelton,
Gelston, and Kirkcormack. The famous piece of ord-
nance called Mons Meg, now in Edinburgh Castle, is
believed to have been made in 1455 at Buchan's Croft,
near the Three Thorns of Carlinwark. Mansions,
noticed separately, are Carlinwark House, Dildawn,
Gelston Castle, and Thi'eave House ; and 8 proprietors
hold each an annual value of £500 and upwards, 11 of
between £100 and £500, 23 of from £50 to £100, and
60 of from £20 to £50. In the presbytery of Kirkcud-
bright and synod of Gallowaj^, the parish since 1873
has been divided between Castle-Douglas quoad sacra
parish and Kelton proper, the latter a living worth
£338. Its church. If mile S of Castle-Douglas, was built
in 1806, and, as restored in 1879-80 at a cost of nearly
£1800, contains 450 sittings. Other places of worship
are described under Castle-Douglas ; and, besides the
three schools there, Gelston and Rhonehouse public
schools, each ■uitli accommodation for 103 children, had
(1881) an average attendance of 46 and 59, and grants
of £53, 19s. and £44. Valuation (1860) £13,642, (1883)
£20,613, 10s. 6d. Pop. (1801) 1905, (1831) 2877,
(1861) 3436, (1871) 3222, (1881) 3458, of whom 966
were in Kelton ecclesiastical parish. — Orel. Sur., sh. 5,
1857.

Kelton Hill or Rhonehouse, a village in Kelton parish,
Kirkcudbrightshire, 2J miles SSW of Castle-Douglas,
under which it has a post office. It formerly had seven
annual fairs, of which the June one was very famous as
a horse fair.

Kelty, a collier village in Beath parish, Fife, and
Cleish parish, Kinross-shire, 7 furlongs W of Kelty
station on the Kinross-shire section of the North British
railway, this being 5 miles SSE of Kinross. It has a
Free church and a public school. Pop. (1871) 793,
(1881) 860, of whom 752 were in Beath.— Ord Sur., sh.
40, 1867.

Kelvin, a river of Stirling, Dumbarton, and Lanark
shires, rising in the great strath of the Forth and Clyde
Canal at a point 3 miles E by N of Kilsyth, and 160
feet above sea-level. Thence it flows 21 miles west-
south-westward and south-south-westward, till it falls
into the Clyde at Partick, the western suburb of
Glasgow. It bounds the parishes of Kilsyth, Cumber-
nauld, Kirkintilloch, Campsie, Cadder, Baldernock,
New Kilpatrick, Maryhill, Barony, and Govan, under
which and Glasgow full details are given as to the
to\\Tis, villages, and other features of its course. Fol-
lowed pretty closely along its left side by the Forth and
Clyde Canal, it is very slow and sluggish over the first 12|
miles, where it formerly was choked with aquatic vege-
tation, and often dispread itself far and wide in a man-
ner betwixt lake and morass. But it was straightened,
deepened, and embanked ; and now it crawls along with
all the appearance of a large ditch. For several miles
it is one of the tamest lines of water in the kingdom ;
but afterwards it has green and wooded banks ; further
on it is fringed with luxuriant haughs, and overlooked
by pleasant braes or hanging jilains ; and all along, till
near its entering its far-famed dell, it borrows much

KEMNAT

interest from the Kilsyth Hills and Campsie Fells, which
flank the N side of its basin. The affluents which
come down to it from these heights contribute the larger
portion of its volume ; and at least GvVRVAld Burn is
entitled to rank as the parent stream. At Kirkintilloch,
the Kelvin receives on the right hand the Glazert coming
down from the Campsie Fells, and on the left Luggie
Water creeping in from a region of moors and knolly
flats. But it still continues languid, and can boast no
higher ornament for several miles than the luxuriant
Balmore haughs. Below these it is joined on its right
side by Allander Water, and passes into a total change
of scenery. Its basin is henceforth a rolling surface of
knolls, with no overhanging fells and few extensive
prospects, but with intricate and endless series of wind-
ing hollows, abrupt diversities, and charming close views.
And here at Garscube, 5 miles NW of Glasgow, the
Kelvin awakens into activity, and enters on Kelvin-
grove. Its course thence to Partick lies generally
along a dell of similar character to that of the North
Esk between Hawthornden and Dalkeith, but with less
brilliance and more diversity. Some parts contract into
gorges, others expand into vale ; some wall in the water-
course between steeps or precipices, others flank it with
strips of meadow or shelving descents ; some are com-
paratively tame and soft, while others are wild and harsh.
But the dell, as a whole, is all feature, all character —
most of it clothed with trees as thickly as a bird's wing
with feathers — some parts streaked with cascades, and
many picturesquely-studded with mansions, bridges,
and mills. Its waters below Maryhill are intensely
polluted by factories ; but they elsewhere contain trout,
pike, perch, and roach, and were formerly frequented
by salmon.— Orrf. Sur., shs. 31, 30, 1867-66.

Kelvingrove. See Kelvin.

Kemback, a parish in the Stratheden district of Fife,
containing the conjoint villages of Duraden, Blebo Craigs,
and Kemback Mills, l.f mile S of Dairsie station, and
3^ miles E of Cupar, under which there is a post ofiice
of Duration. Bounded NW by Dairsie, N by Leuchars,
NE by St Andrews, E and S l)y Ceres, and W by Cupar,
it has an utmost length from E to W of 2| miles, a
varying width of 7 furlongs and 2| miles, and an area
of 2602 acres, of which 7^ are water. The Eden winds
3| miles north-eastward along all the Dairsie and
Leuchars boundary ; and its affluent, Ceres Burn, flows
1§ mile northward through Dura Den, partly along
the Ceres boundary, but mainly across the middle of the
parish. The surface declines along the Eden to less
than 100 feet above sea-level, and rises thence to 547
feet at Clatto Hill on the St Andrews border. The
rocks, comprising trap, sandstone, ironstone, and shale,
include a vein of lead-ore ; and the fossil fishes of their
yellow sandstone have been fully noticed under Dura
Den and the geology of Fife. The soil is variously
strong heavy clay, deep able black loam, peat, gravel,
and poor black sand ; and agriculture has been carried
to high perfection, especially on the Blebo estate, where
steam |)Ower has been employed for a good many years.
About one-seventh of the entire area is under wood,
nearly all the remainder being either in tillage or pas-
ture. Mansions are Blebo House, Dura House, Kem-
back House, and Ilumgally ; and 4 proprietors hold each
an annual value of £500 and upwards, 4 of between £100
and £500, and 6 of from £20 to £50. Kemback is in
the presbytery of St Andrews and synod of Fife ; the
living is worth £223. The parish church was built in
1814 at a cost of £700. A public school, with accom-
modation for 190 children, had (1881) an average attend-
ance of 74, and a grant of £67, 18s. Valuation (1866)
£4885, ISs., (1883) £6554, 9s. Pop. (1801) 626, (1831)
651, (1861) 896, (1871) 1056, (1881) 853, of whom 380
were in the three conjoint villages. — Orel. Sur., shs.
48, 49, 41, 1857-68.

Kemnay, a village and a parish of central Aberdeen-
shire. The village stands near the right side of the
river Don, close by Kemnay station on the Alford
Valley branch of the Great North of Scotland railway,
this being 4 miles W of Kintore and 17| WNW of

319

KEMP

KENMORE

Aberdeen, under which there is a post office, with
money order, savings' bank, and telegraph depart-
ments. Occup3-ing a pleasant slope and commanding a
delightful view of the basin of the Don, with Bennochie
beyond, it was a paltry hamlet down to 1S58, but then
rising suddenly into note in connection with the open-
ing and working of neighbouring quarries, it has been
so rebuilt and extended as to become one of the finest
villages in the county, and now presents an entirely
new and tasteful appearance, with cottages and semi-
detached two-story houses, constructed of granite, roofed
with blue slate, and adjoined by garden plots. The
granite quarries, f mile to the N, were opened in 1S5S
by the lessee, Mr John Fyfe, an Aberdonian, to whose
genius and enterprise is owing their great success.
More extensive than any others in the N of Scotland,
and employing on an average 250 men all the year
round, they are worked with aid of seven steam cranes,
each capable of lifting ten tons, and of two of a novel
type, devised by Mr Fyfe, and named Blondins, which
lift smaller stones and rubbish with great despatch.
The quarries have furnished the principal materials
for the Thames Embankment and tlie Forth Bridge ;
and produce curve stones, paving stones, and building
stones, of light-greyish colour and close texture, in
blocks occasionally 30 feet long, and weighing 100 tons.

The parish is bounded N"\V by Chapel of Garioch, N
by Inverurie, E by Kintore, SE by Skene, S by Cluny,
and W by Monymusk. Its utmost length, from N by
E to S by W, is 5J miles ; its utmost breadth, from E
to "W, is 25 miles ; and its area is 5154j acres. The
Dox winds 5| miles along the north-western and
northern border; and where it quits the parish, the
surface declines to 195 feet above sea-level, thence
rising southward to 400 feet near the quarries and
500 at Lochshangie Hill. There are numerous springs
of the finest water, by one of which, yielding nearly
30,000 gallons a day, the village is supplied; as by
another of like flow, aided by a ram, are a number of
dwelling-houses on the Quarry Hill. A low hillocky
ridge, made up internally of rounded stones and gravel,
and bearing the name of the Kaims, extends for about
2 miles on the line of the river, and is evidently a
moraine. Traces of glacier action are found on the
surface of the Quarry Hill, when newly bared ; and
within the radius of a mile around the village there are
about a dozen erratic boulders of gneiss of huge di-
mensions, supposed to have been brought down from
Bena'an near the source of the Don. Granite is the
predominant rock. The soil along the Don is a rich,
deep, stoneless loam, and elsewhere is mostly a light
mould, incumbent on sand or clay. A kistvaen was
some years since accidentally uncovered by the plough ;
and an ancient standing-stone exists, measuring 11 J
feet from the ground, and 9 feet in mean girtlh
Kemnay House, to the S of the village, is a large old
mansion with finely-wooded grounds ; its owner, the
Rev. Alex. George Burnett (b. 1816 ; sue. 1847), holds
4486 acres in the parish, valued at £3250 per annum.
Two other proprietors liold each an annual value of
more than £100 ; and there are also a good many feuars.
Kemnay is in the presbytery of Garioch and synod of
Aberdeen ; the living, including the value of the glebe,
is under £200. The church, at the village, is of recent
erection, and contains some 400 sittings. There is also
a Free church ; and a public school, with accommodation
for 355 children, had (1881) an average attendance of
207, and a grant of £154, 8s. Valuation (1860) £2735,
(1883) £5643. iPop. (1801) 583, (1831) 616, (1851) 680,
(1861) 832, (1871) 1300, (1881) \QZQ.—Ord. Sur., sh.
76, 1874.

Kemp. See Camp.

Kempoch. See GouROCK.

Ken, a river of Glenkens district, Kirkcudbrightshire,
rising between Lorg and Blacklorg Hills, at a point |
mile ESE of the meeting-point of Ayr, Dumfries, and
Kirkcudbright shires, and 1870 feet above sea-level.
Th.nce it winds 28^ miles south-by-eastward, till, after
a total descent of 1720 feet, it forms a confluence with
350

the Dee, opposite Parton station. Over the last 4^
miles of its course it expands into beautiful Loch Ken,
which, with a varying width of 200 and 800 yards, is
studded with four wooded islets, and partly fringed
with plantations. Its principal affluents are the Black
AVater, the AVater of Deugh, and Pulmaddy, Pul-
liarrow, Earlston, Garpel, and DuUarg Burns ; and it
separates the parishes of Carsphairn and Kells on its
right bank from Dairy, Balmaclellan, and PartoTi
parishes on its left. Its scenery, mountainous in the
upper reaches, in the middle and the lower parts is a
series of picturesque groupings of hill and vale ; and
its waters contain salmon, sea-trout, river-trout, pike,
and pei'ch. About the middle of last century an enor-
mous pike, 7 feet long and 72 lbs. in weight, was taken
in Loch Ken ; the skeleton of its head is still pre-
served in Kenmure Castle. — Orel. Sicr., shs. 15, 9, 5,
1857-64.

Kender, Loch. See Kindee.

Kenedar. See King Edwaed.

Kenleith, a farm in Currie parish, Edinburghshire,
on the western slope of the Pentlands, | mile SE of
Currie village. Here are vestiges of an old camp or
entrenchment, said to have been formed to prevent a
stealthy march upon Edinburgh through a narrow pass
of the Pentlands.

Kenloch. See Kixloch.

Kenlochaline Castle. See Alixe, Loch.

Kenlocheil. See Kixlocheil.

Kenlochewe. See Kixlochewe.

Kenlum, a hill (900 feet) in Anwoth parish, Kirkcud-
brightshire, 2^ miles N W of Gatehouse-of- Fleet.

Kenly Bum, a troutful rivulet of the E of Fife,
formed by the confluence of Cameron, Wakefield, and
Chesters Burns, and running 3g miles east-north-
eastward through or along the borders of Dunino, St
Leonards, St Andrews, and Kingsbarns parishes, tUl it
falls into the sea midway between St Andrews city and
Fife Ness. It is sometimes called Pitmilly Burn. —
Orel. Sur., shs. 41, 49, 1857-65.

Kenmore (Gael. cean-Mhoire, 'Mary's headland'), a
village and a parish in Breadalbane district, central Perth-
shire. The village, 6 miles WSW of Aberfeldy, 17 NE by
E of Killin, and 22 NNW of CrieS", crowns a gentle head-
land, projecting into the lower or NE end of Loch Tay, and
washed on the N side by the river Tay, which here, at its
efflux from the lake, is spanned by a handsome five-arch
bridge. A pleasant little place, with its two churches,
its neat white cottages, and its close proximity to Tay-
mouth Castle, it has a post office under Aberfeldy, a good
hotel, an orphanage, coach and steamer communication
with Aberfeldy and Killin, and fairs on the first Tues-
day of March 0. s. , 28 June, 26 July, the Wednesday in
October before Falkirk Tryst, the Friday in November
before the last Doune Tryst, and 24 Dec. The view
from the bridge is one of almost unrivalled loveliness ;
and Burns, who came hither on 28 Aug. 1787, Avi-ote
over the cliimney-piece of the inn parlour what Lock-
hart pronounces among the best of his English heroics —

' Admiring- Nature in her wildest grace,
These northern scenes with weary feet I trace ;
O'er many a winding dale and painful steep,
Th' abodes of covey'd grouse and timid sheep.
My savage journey, curiuus, I pursue,
Till famed Breadalbane opens to my view.
The meeting cliffs each deep-sunk glen divides
The woods, wild scatter'd, clothe their ample sides;
Th' outstretching lake, embosom'd mid the hills.
The eye with wonder and amazement fills ;
The Tay, meand'ring sweet in infant pride ;
The i>alace, rising on its verdant side ;
The lawns, wood-frinjf'd in Nature's native taste;
The hillocks, dropt in Nature's careless haste;
The arches, striding o'er the new-born stream ;
The village, glittering in the noontide beam."

Wordsworth came hither, too, on 5 Sept. 1805, along
with his sister Dorothy ; and she writes in her Journal
— ' When we came in view of the foot of the lake, we
perceived that it ended, as it had begun, in pride and
loveliness. The view, though not near so beautiful as
that of Killin, is exceedingly pleasing,' etc.

KENMORE

The parish, containing also the villages of Achani
and Stronfearnan, comprises a main body and five
detached sections, the area of the whole being 113 J
square miles or 72,542 acres, of which 5346^ are water,
and 32,841^ belong to the main body. This, bounded
N by Fortingall, NE by Dull, S by Comrie, and on all
other sides by fragments of Weem, Dull, Monzie, and
Killin, has an utmost length from NNE to SSW of 11 J
miles, whilst its width varies between ^ mile and 9g
miles. The Kiltyrie or largest detached section is parted
therefrom merely by a strip of AVeem (detached), 3 fur-
longs wide at the narrowest, and, bounded W by Killin,
NW by Fortingall, and on all other sides by fragments
of Weem and Killin, has an utmost length from NNW
to SSE of 8§ miles, with an utmost width of 5^ miles.
In the Kiltyrie section and the main body are included
nearly all the waters of Loch Tay, which, lying at an
altitude of 355 feet above .sea-level, extends 14^ miles
north-eastward, and varies in width between ^ mile and
9^ furlongs, and which from its foot sends off the river
Tay, winding 2| miles north-eastward till it passes off
from the main body. From the shores of Loch Tay the
surface rises southward to Creag Charbh (2084 feet),
Meall Gleann a' Chloidh (2238), *Creag Uigeach (2840),
Beinn Bhreac (2341), Creagan na Beinne (2909), and
Creag an Fhudair (1683) ; northward to Meall nan Tar-
machan (3421), and broad based, cairn-crowned *Ben
Lawers (4004), where asterisks mark those summits
that culminate on the confines of the parish. Three
smaller lakes are Lochan a' Chait (3 x 1| furl. ; 2480
feet) and Lochan na Lairige (5f x 1 furl. ; 1596 feet) on
the north-eastern and western skirts of Ben Lawers, and
Lochan Breaclaich (4 x 1^ furl. ; 1400 feet) to the S of
Loch Tay.

The Glenlochy or second largest section, with an
extreme length of 8 miles from N by E to S by W and
a varying width of 9 furlongs and 4^ miles, is bounded
SE and SW by Killin, and W, N, and E by fragments
of Fortingall and "Weem. The Lolhy, flowing out of
tiny Lochan Chailinn (1258 feet), has here a north-
easterly course of 5| miles ; and the Lyon, issuing from
Loch Lyon, winds 2| miles east-by-northward along all
the northern boundary. This section is almost com-
pletely rimmed by lofty mountains — *Beinn Dheiceach
(3074), *Beinu Chaluinn (3354), *Creag Mhor (3305),
and Beinn Heasgarnich (3530). Lower down the Lochy
either bounds or traverses, for Ig and 1§ mile, the two
smaller sections of Tullich (6g x 2| miles) and Moir-
lanich (1^ x 1 mile), in the former of which sections the
highest summits are Meall Ghaordie (3407 feet) on the
northern, and Creag Mhor (2359) near the southern,
boundary. Lastly the Glexquaich section (4| x 1§
mi'es) is bounded or traversed for 1| mile by the Quaich,
includes a corner of Loch Freuchie (If mile x 3 J furl. ;
880 feet), and rises northward to * Meall Dubh (2021
feet), southward to *Meall nam Fuaran (2631).

Such is the bare outline of the general features of this
widely-dispersed Highland parish, whose beauties, anti-
quities, and history are noticed more fully in our articles
AcHARN, Ben Law^eks, Beeadalbane, Tay, Tay-
MOUTH Castle, etc. Mica slate is the predominant
rock ; but gneiss, clay and chloride slate, quartz, and
some varieties of hornblende slate are also plentiful, and
beds of limestone occur in two or three places. The
chloride slate, the quartz, and the limestone have been
■worked for building or other purposes. Lead, iron, and
other ores exist in small quantities among the moun-
tains. The soil of the arable lands is chiefly a light
brownish loam, with a slight admixture of clay ; that
of much of the hill pastures has a light and mossy
character. At most, one-eighth of the entire area is in
tillage ; nearly as much is under wood ; and the rest is
pasture, moorland, mountain, and moss, whose fishings
and shootings however are very valuable. The Earl of
Breadalbane is almost sole proprietor, 1 other holding
an annual value of more, and 1 of less, than £50.
Giving off its Glenquaich section to the quoad sacra
parish of Amulree, Kenmore is in the jiresbytery of
Weem and synod of Perth and Stirling ; the living is

KENMURE CASTLE

worth £340. The parish church, at the village, is a
cruciform structure of 1760, with 300 sittings and a
tower at the E end. Other places of worship are the
Free churches of Kenmore, Ardeonaig, and Lawers, and
Taymouth Episcopal chapel, St James'. Five public
schools — Acharn, Ardtalnaig, Fearnan, Kiltyrie, and
Lawers — with respective accommodation for 118, 86, 50,
51, and 93 children, had (1881) an average attendance
of 74, 35, 26, 32, and 54, and grants of £87, 14s., £49,
17s., £36, 18s., £36, 8s., and £65, 2s. Valuation (1866)
£11,064, lis. 8d., (1883) £11,216, 10s. 8d. Pop. (1801)
3346, (1831) 3126, (1861) 1984, (1871) 1615, (1881)
1508, of whom 1152 were Gaelic-speaking, and 1432
were in Kenmore ecclesiastical parish. — Ord. Sur., shs.
55, 47, 46, 1869-72.

Kemnure Castle, a seat in Kells parish, Kirkcud-
brightshire, 5 furlongs above the head of Loch Ken,
and I mile S by E of New Galloway. It stands on a
high, round, isolated mount, which, till one observes
the rock that crops out on its S side, might be taken
for artificial ; and it seems of old to have been sur-
rounded by a fosse, supplied with water from the river
Ken. Approached by a noble lime-tree avenue, and
engirt by well-wooded policies and gardens with stately
beech hedges, it forms a conspicuous feature in one of
the finest landscapes in the South of Scotland. The
oldest portion, roofless and clad with ivy, exhibits the
architecture of the 13th or 14th, but the main build-
ing appears to belong to the 17th, century. The
interior is interesting, with its winding staircases,
mysterious passages, and heirloom collection of Jacoliite
relies and portraits — the sixth Viscount Kenmure
(painted by Kneller in the Tower of London), Queen
Mary, James VI. (by Zuccaro), ' Young Lochinvar '
(by Lely?), etc. AVhen or by whom the original por-
tion of the pile was built, is a matter not known. In
early times, and even at a comparatively recent date, it
suffered much from the ravages of war, having been
burned both in the reign of Mary and during the ad-
ministration of Cromwell. Originally, it is said to
have been a seat or stronghold of the Lords of Gallo-
way ; and John Baliol is reported to have made it his
frequent residence, nay even to have been born within
its walls. On the other hand, the lands of Kenmure
and Lochinvar are said to have been acquired in 1297
from John de Maxwell by Sir Adam Gordon, whose
sixth descendant was the first Earl of Huntly (see
Gordon Castle), whilst his tenth, in the younger
line, was created Viscount Kenmure. Thus the
Gordons of Lochinvar or Kenmure claimed strictly
the same stock as the Gordons of the north ; and, after
settling down at Kenmure, they gradually acquired, by
grant, purchase, or marriage, the greater part of Kirk-
cudbrightshire. They were distinguished by the confi-
dence of, and their attachment to, the Stuart sovereigns.
Sir John Gordon of Lochinvar was a steadfast adherent
of Mary, and ran serious hazards in her cause. In 1633
his grandson. Sir John Gordon (1599-1634), was raised
by Charles I. to the peerage under the title of Viscount
Kenmure. This nobleman combined attachment to the
house of Stuart with unflinching fidelity in the profes-
sion of the Presbyterian religion ; and, much as he is
known for the honours conferred upon him by Charles,
he is greatly better known for his intimacy with John
Welsh and Samuel Rutherford. In 1715, William, the
sixth Viscount, took an active part in the Eebellion,
and next year was beheaded on Tower Hill in London,
entailing upon his family the forfeiture of the title.
His descendants, however, having bought back the
estates from the Crown, endeavoured, by serving in
the army, to atone for their ancestor's error, and dis-
tinguished themselves by patriotic concern for the
interests of their tenants, and for the general welfare ;
and, in 1824, they were restored by act of parliament
to their ancient honours in the person of John Gordon
(1750-1840), the forfeited Viscount's grandson. He
was succeeded by his nephew, Adam, a naval officer,
who displayed great gallantry on the American lakes
durin" the war of 1813, and at whose death in

353

KENMURE HOUSE

1847 the peerage became extinct. Kenmure Castle
passed to Lis sister, the Hon. Mrs Bellamy-Gordon,
owner of 14,093 acres in the shire, valued at £4230
per annum. John Lowe (1750-9S), the author of Mary's
Bream, was a son of the gardener at Kenmure Castle,
at which Queen Mary is said to have rested _ in the
course of her flight from Langside, and which was
visited once by Robert Burns. — Orel. Sur., sh. 9,
1863. See pp. 163, 174-177 of M. Harper's iiamJte mi
Galloicaij (1876) ; and p. 302 of R. Chambers' Popular
Bhymcs of Scotland {edn. 1870).

kenmure House, a plain two-storied mansion in
Barony parish, NW Lanarkshire, 1 mile NNW of
Bishopbriggs station. In 1806 Charles Stirling pur-
chased the lands of Kenmure, adjoining his elder
brother's estate of Cawder or Cadder, and built the
greater part of the existing mansion, which he sold,
with the estate, in 1816 for £40,000 to that same
brother, Archibald. Kenmure was thus the birthplace
of the latter's son. Sir William Stirling-Maxwell
(1818-78). See Keik.

Kennedy. See Castle-Kexnedy.

Kennet, a collier village, with a public school, in
Clackmannan parish, Clackmannanshire, 1 mile ESE
of Clackmannan town, and 1^ SSW of Kincardine
station. Kennet House, 1 mile SE of Clackmannan, is
a handsome mansion of the beginning of the present
century, which, commanding a charming view of the
waters and screens of the Forth, is surrounded by
gardens and plantations of great beauty, and contains
a number of family portraits— Gen. James Bruce,
Brigadier-General Alexander Bruce, Lord Kennet, &c.
The estate was obtained from his father in 1389 by
Thomas, a natural son of Sir Robert Bruce of Clack-
mannan ; and his descendant, Alexander-Hugh Bruce
(b. 1849), in 1868 established his claim to the title of
sixth Baron Balfour of Burleigh (cr. 1607), as fifth in
female descent from the fourth Lord. He holds 3064
acres in Clackmannan, Stirling, Fife, and Perth shires,
valued at £5103 per annum. Thomas Boston (1676-
1732), author of the Four/old State, was tutor at Kennet
in 1696-97.— Ord. Sur., sh. 39, 1869. See pp. 63-65 of
James Lothian's Alloa (3d ed. 1871).

Kennethmont, a hamlet and a parish of NW central
Aberdeenshire. The hamlet, Kirkhill of Kennethmont,
stands 588 feet above sea-level and f mile WSW of
Kennethmont station on the Great North of Scotland
railway, this being 8 miles SSE of Huntly, 12J WNW
of Inveramsay Junction, and 32f NW of Aberdeen. It
has a post office, with money order', savings' bank, and
railway telegraph departments, a cattle and sheep mar-
ket on the third Monday of every month, and a hiring
market on the third Monday of April.

The parish, comprising the ancient parishes of Ken-
nethmont and Christ's Kirk, is bounded N by Gartly,
NE by Insch, SE by Premnay, S by Leslie, SW by
Clatt, and W by Rhynie. Its utmost length, from E to
W, is 6 miles ; its utmost breadth, from N to S, is 3§
miles ; and its area is 8472 acres, of which 3:] are water.
The Water of Bogie flows 2§ miles north -b5--eastward
along all the Rhynie border ; and the Shevock, rising on
the Moss of Wardhousc, has here a south-easterly course
of 5g miles on or near to the northern and eastern
boundaries ; so that the drainage belongs partly to the
Deveron and partly to the Don. Along the Bogie the
surface declines to 498, along tlie Shevock to 490, feet
above sea-level ; and thence it rises to 1426 feet at
Knockandy Hill and 1021 at the Hill of Clirist's Kirk.
The rocks include mica and clay slate in the N, trap
and greenstone in the E, and syenite in the W ; and a
chalybeate spring near the northern border enjoyed once
high medicinal repute. The soil is extremely various,
ranging from clay and loam to moss, but has been greatly
improved within the last forty years by draining and
manuring. Plantations cover a considerable area. At
Ardlair and Cults are traces of two stone circles. Ward-
house and Leith Hall, 1^ mile NE and 1 mile WNW of
Kennethmont station, are both old but commodious
mansions ; and their owners, Carlos Pedro Gordon, Esq.,
352

KENNOWAY

K.M. (b. 1814; sue. 1866), and Col. Alex. Sebastian
Leith-Hay, C.B. (b. 1819; sue. 1862), holds 13,427 and
12,546 acres in the shire, valued at £6876 and £7916 per
annum. Distinguished members of these two families
have been Admiral Sir James Alex. Gordon, G.C.B.
(1788-1869), General Sir James Leith, G.C.B. (1763-
1816), and Lieiit.-Col. Sir Andrew Leith-Hay, K.H.,
M.P. (d. 1862); another native of Kennethmont was
William Milne, D.D. (1785-1822), the Chinese mis-
sionary. A third mansion is Craighall ; and, in all, 3
proprietors hold each an annual value of more, and 2 of
less, than £500. Kennethmont is in the presbytery of
Alford and synod of Aberdeen ; the living is worth
£266. The parish church, built in 1812, contains 400
sittings. A Free church stands 1 mile ESE ; and a
public school, with accommodation for 200 children,
had (1881) an average attendance of 149, and a grant of
£128, 3s. 6d. Valuation (1860) £4669, (1882) £5895,
2)bis £1516 for railway. Pop. (1801)784, (1831) 1131,
(1861) 1187, (1871) 1062, (1881) 999.— OrcZ. Sur., shs.
76, 86, 1874-76.

Kenneth's Isle. See Inch-Kenneth.

Kennetpans, a small village in Clackmannan parish,
Clackmannanshire, on the NE shore of the Forth, If
mile NW of Kincardine. It has a harbour, ranking as
a subport of Alloa. Kennetpans House stands near the
village, and commands a fine view of the Forth.

Kennishead, a place, with a station, in Eastwood
parish, Renfrewshire, on the Glasgow and Barrhead rail-
way, 9 furlongs SW of Pollokshaws.

Kennoway, a village and a parish of S central Fife.
The village stands 3h miles E by N of Markinch, and
li mile N of Cameron Bridge station, this being 3|
miles ENE of Thornton Junction and 23| NNE of Edin-
burgh. Occupying the southern slope of an eminence,
and overhanging a ravine or den, it thence has been
said to have got the name of Kennowa}' (Gael, ccann-
nan-uaigh, 'head of the den'),* and it commands a
magnificent view of the waters and screens of the Firth
of Forth. It dates from times long prior to the existence
of any of its present buildings ; but in the arrangement
of its streets and the style of some of its houses, it re-
tains indications of antiquity ; and it is prettier, cleaner,
and more substantial than most of the seaside or the
collier villages of Fife, whilst possessing a high reputa-
tion for salubrity. One of its old houses is said to have
been occupied by Archbishop Sharp on the night pre-
ceding his assassination ; and fifteen or twenty private
houses are licensed for the reception of pauper lunatics,
which has had the effect of greatly lessening the value
of house property, and keeping away respectable tenants.
The population has dwindled with the decline in
handloom weaving, and two annual fairs have become
extinct. The village is lighted with gas ; and has a
post office, 2 inns, a savings' bank, and several benefit
and religious societies. The parish church here, built
in 1850 after designs by T. Hamilton of Edinburgh, is
a Norman edifice, with 650 sittings. The Free church
was built soon after the Disruption; and the U.P.
church is noted for having long enjoyed the ministry of
the Rev. Dr Donald Fraser, biographer of the Erskines.
Pop. (1831) 862, (1841) 1101, \lS61) 939, (1871) 835,
(1881) 770.

The parish, containing also Baintown village and
Star village, is bounded N by Kettle, E by Scoonie,
and S and W by Markinch. Its utmost length, from
E to W, is 3§ miles ; its breadth, from N to S, varies
between 1^ and 2J miles ; and its area is 3964 j acres.
Sinking to 170 feet above sea-level at the southern
border, the surface thence rises gradually northward to
455 feet near Dalginch, 519 near Baintown, and 669 at
Lalathan, and is beautifully diversified with gentle and

*A much more probable deriv.ation, resting on the authority of
Dr Reeves, is from Kennichi or Kenneth, a disciple of St Columba.
The ancient n;inie of the parish is Keanochi or Kennichin, some-
times Kennochy. The bell of tlie old parish church, now hung
above the entrance to Borthwick Hall, Midlothi.in, has cast upon
it in raised letters— ' I'm for the Kirk o' Kennochi.' Kennoway
is a comparatively modern corruption, found in no ancient docu-
ments.

KENNOX

irregular rising-grounds that command extensive and
brilliant views of the basin of the Forth and of parts
of the basin of the Tay away to the Grampians. The
streams are all mere burns, either tributary to the Leven
or running through Scoonie to the Forth ; and one of
them, passing close to Kennoway village, traverses there
a picturesque ravine. The rocks are variously eruptive
and carboniferous ; and trap, sandstone, and coal are
■worked. The soil, in the S and E, is mostly light and
fertile ; in the centre, is loam or clay, on a retentive
bottom ; and over part of the N, is dry loam, incumbent
on trap rock. About one-sixteenth of the entire area is
under wood, and nearly all the rest is in tillage. Man-
sions are Kingsdale and Newton Hall ; and 3 proprietors
hold each an annual value of £500 and upwards, 7 of
between £100 and £500, 2 of from £50 to £100, and
15 of from £20 to £50. Kennoway is in the pres-
bytery of Kirkcaldy and synod of Fife ; the living is
worth £423. Two public schools, Kennoway and Star,
with respective accommodation for 230 and 90 children,
had (1881) an average attendance of 167 and 82, and
grants of £135, lis. and £81, 15s. Valuation (1860)
£8520, (1883) £8988, 14s. Id. Pop. (1801) 1466, (1831)
1721, (1841) 2044, (1861) 2012, (1871) 1703, (1881) 1560.
—Orel. Sur., sh. 40, 1867.

Kennox, an estate, with a mansion, in Stewarton
parish, Ayrshire, 2^ miles AVSW of the town. Its
owner, Charles Somerville M'Alester (b. 1799 ; sue.
1847), holds 1012 acres in the shire, valued at £1442
per annum. — Ord. Sur., sh. 22, 1865.

Kentallen, a village in Lismore and Appin parish,
Argyllshire, on the E shore of Loch Linulie, 3 miles
WSW of Ballachulish.

Kenziels, a hamlet in Annan parish, S Dumfriesshire,
1 mile S of the town.

Keppoch, an estate, with a modern mansion, in
Cardi'oss parish, Dumbartonshire, 2 miles NW of Car-
dross station.

Keppoch, an estate, with a mansion, in Kilmonivaig
parish, SW luverness-shire, near the right banks of the
Spean and the confluent Roy, 16 miles ENE of Fort
William. It belonged to the M'Intoshes, but was partly
held by the M'Ranalds ; and, in a contention between
them, it became the scene of the last clan battle in
Scotland.— Orrf. Sur., sh. 63, 1873.

Kerbit Water. See Arity.

Kerelaw, an estate, with a mansion of the close of
last century and a ruined castle, in Stevenston parish,
Ayrshire, 5 furlongs N by E of the town. The castle,
which belonged to the Earls of Glencairn, was sacked
towards the end of the 15th century by the Montgomeries
of Eglinton ; and, now a massive ivy-mantled ruin, re-
cently underwent some renovation, to retard its decay
and increase its picturesqueness. The sacking of it was
avenged by the burning of Eglinton Castle to the ground
in 1528.— Ord. Sur., sh. 22, 1865,

Kerera. See Kerrera.

Kerfield, an estate, with a modem two-story mansion,
in Peebles parish, Peeblesshire, on the left bank of the
Tweed, 5 furlongs E by S of Peebles town.

Kerrera, an island of Kilmore and Kilbride parish,
Argyllshire, in the Firth of Lorn, opposite the south-
eastern part of Mull. Separated from the mainland by
the Sound of Kerrera, ^ to 1 mile in breadth, and
screening, in its northern part, the Bay of Oban, it ex-
tends 4| miles south-south-westward, with a varying
breadth of If furlong and If mile ; and it forms part
of the line of communication between Oban and Mull.
Its shores contribute largely to the excellence of the
romantic harbour of Oban, and contain within them-
selves two good harbours, called Ardiutraive and Horse-
shoe Bays ; its southern extremity is a promontory,
exhibiting noble cliff scenery, and crowned with the
strong, tall, roofless tower of Gylen Castle, probably
erected in the 12th century, long a stronghold of the
Macdougals of Lorn, and besieged and captured in 1647
by a detachment of General Leslie's army. Chief eleva-
tions from N to S are Barr Dubh (374 feet), Ardchoric
(617), and Cnoc na Faire (344) ; and the general surface

KETTINS

is a broken and confused mixture of steep hills and deep
vales, commanding gorgeous views from the heights,
containing good arable and pasture land in the hollows,
and so rapidly alternating as to be traversable only with
much fatigue and difficulty. The rocks are a remarkable
assemblage of trap, schist, slate, and conglomerate, and
form a singular study to geologists. With the exception
of two farms, the island is included in the Dunolly
property. Alexander II. , when preparing his expedition
against the Hebrides, assembled his fleet in Horse-shoe
Bay, and, being seized -with fever there, was taken ashore
to a pavilion, on a spot still called Dalree or ' the King's
field,' and there died, 8 July 1249 ; and Hakon of Nor-
way, in 1263, held a meeting of Hebridean chiefs on
Kerrera, to engage their aid in his descent on the
mainland. Pop. (1841) 187, (1861) 105, (1871) 101,
(1881) 103, of whom 91 were Gaelic-speaking.

KerriflF. See Kilfinan.

Kerry. See Kilfixan.

Kerrycroy, a small neat village in Kingarth parish,
Bute island, Buteshire, on Kerrycroy Bay, 2^ miles SSE
of Rothesay.

Kerse House, the seat of the Earl of Zetland, in Falkirk
parish, Stirlingshire, in the middle of a finely wooded
park, 5 furlongs SW of Grangemouth. Partly a building
of high antiquity, but added to at varioirs periods, it
presents the appearance of a plain Elizabethan mansion,
and forms the chief ornament of the eastern Carse.
The estate had been held by Menteths, Livingstones,
and Hopes, before it was purchased by Lawrence Dundas,
who in 1762 was created a baronet. His son Thomas
(1741-1820) was raised to the peerage as Baron Dundas,
of Aske, CO. York, in 1794 ; and his grandson, Laurence
(1766-1839), was made Earl of Zetland in 1838. Laurence
Dundas, present and third Earl (b. 1844 ; sue. 1873),
holds 4656 acres in Stirlingshire, valued at £13,808 per
annum, including £4256 for coal. — Ord. Sur., sh. 31,
1867.

Kersewell, an estate, with a mansion, in Carnwath
parish, E Lanarkshire, 2J miles ENE of the village.
Pui'chased by his ancestor at the beginning of the 18th
century, it is now the property of William Bertram,
Esq. (b. 1826 ; sue. 1839), who holds 5037 acres in the
shire, valued at £2893 per annum. — Ord. Sur., sh. 24,
1864.

Kershope Burn, a rivulet of Castleton parish, S Rox-
burghshire, rising at an altitude of 1255 feet above sea-
level, and running | mile south-eastward to the boundary
with Cumberland, and then 8f miles .south-westward
along the English Border, till, after a total descent of
975 feet, it falls into the Liddel at a point 85 miles S
by W of Newcastleton. Its waters are well stocked with
trout— Ord. Sur., sh. 11, 1863.

Kersland. See Den and Dalry, Ayrshire.

Kessock, a ferry, 3 furlongs wide, between Inverness
and Ross shires, across the strait between the Moray
and Beauly Firths, opposite Inverness, under which
there is a post oflice of Kessock. It is on the route
from Inverness to Dingwall and Cromarty, and is
one of the safest ferries in the north of Scotland.
The view from the middle of the strait, particularly
at high water, is exceedingly fine. — Oi-d. Sur., sh. 83,
1881.

Ket, a streamlet of Glasserton and Whithorn parishes,
SW Wigtownshire. Rising f mile AVNW of Glasserton
church, and within 1 mile of Luce Bay, it describes a
semicircle round by Whithorn town, and, after an easterly
run of 5| miles, falls into the sea at Portyerrock. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 2, 1856.

Ketland. See Glenketland.

Kettins, a village and a parish on the SW border of
Forfarshire. The village stands 1§ mile ESE of Coupar-
Angus, under which it has a post office. It consists
of neatly kept cottages and gardens, with a central
gi'een.

The parish, containing also the hamlets of Ley of
Hallyburton and Campmuir, is bounded NE liy Newtyle,
E by Lundie, and on all other sides by Perthshire, viz.,
SE by Longforgan, SW by Collace, and W and NW

35'*

KETTLE

KILBARCHAN

by Scone (detached), Cargill, and Conpar-Angus. Its
utmost length, from NNE to SSW, is 5^ miles ; its
breadth varies between 1^ and 4^ miles ; and its area
is 7815f acres, of which 26 are water and 335§ belong
to the detached or Bandirran section. The western
division of the parish, forming part of Strathmore,
declines to 170 feet above sea-level ; and thence the
surface rises south-eastward to the watershed of the
Sidlaw Hills, attaining 1088 feet at Keillor Hill and
1141 at Gaskhill Wood. The upland district slopes
gently to the plain, and is partly heathy, partly wooded,
and partly pastoral ; the lowland district, larger than
the upland one, is nearly level, highly cultivated, and
finely embellished. Trap rocks prevail in the hills.
Old Red sandstone in the plain ; and the latter has
been quarried in several places, and makes a good
building-stone. The soil on the higher grormds is
light and thin ; on the low grounds, is chiefly a silicious
loam or a friable black mould, and highly fertile.
About three-fourths of the entire area are in tillage, and
woods and plantations cover some 1500 acres. ' Picts'
Houses ' or subterranean caves have been discovered on
the estates of Lintrose and Pitcur — at the latter in
1878 ; Pitcur Castle, a ruin, If mile SE of the village,
was the ancient seat of the Haliburtons ; a fortalice,
called Dores Castle, and said by tradition to have been
a residence of Macbeth, crowned a hill to the S of
Pitcur ; six pre-Reformation chapels stood at Peattie,
South Corston, Pitcur, Muiryfaulds, Denhead, and the
S side of Kettins village ; and other antiquities are
noticed under Campmuir and Baldowxie. Mansions,
noticed separately, are Hallyburton, Lintrose, Baldowrie,
and Bandirran ; and the proprietors are R. S. Menzies,
Esq., the Earl of Wharncliffe, and four others. Includ-
ing qxioad sacra the detached section of Scone, Kettins
is in the presbyter}^ of Meigle and synod of Angus and
Mearns ; the living is worth £306. The parish chinch,
at the village, was built in 1768, and, as restored and
enlarged in 1871, contains 500 sittings. The public
school, with accommodation for 171 children, had (1882)
an average attendance of 139, and a grant of £127, lis.
6d. Valuation (1857) £9638, (1883) £12,206, 15s. lid.,
plus £734 for railwav. Pop. of the civil parish (1801)
1207, (1831) 1193, (1861) 901, (1871) 775, (1881) 848;
of the ecclesiastical parish (1881) 903. — Ord. Sur., .sh.
48. 1S68.

Kettle, a village and a parish of central Fife. The
village, standing 130 feet above sea-level, near the right
bank of the Eden, has a station (Kingskettle) on the
Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee section of the North
British railway, f mile S by E of Ladybank Junction,
6i miles SW of Cupar, and 27^ N by E of Edinburgh.
So low is its site, and so closely skirted by the Eden, as
almost to be reached by freshets of that river. Originally
called Catul or Katel ('battle') — a name supposed to
refer to some ancient unrecorded battle fought in its
neighbourhood — it stands on ground which of old be-
longed to the Crown, and hence assumed its alternative
name of King's Kettle or Kingskettle. It is chiefly
inhabited by handloom weavers and by artisans ; and
has a post office under Ladybank, with money order,
savings' bank, and telegraph departments, an hotel,
gasworks, and horticultural and five other societies.
The parish church is a handsome Gothic edifice of 1831,
with a pinnacled tower, and nearly 1200 sittings. An
harmonium was given to it on 4 Jan. 1882, when a new
session-hall and class-room were also opened. A Free
church was built at Balmalcolm, f mile E by N, shortly
after the Disruption. There is also a neat U. P. church
(1853; 600 sittings). Pop. (1831) 527, (1861) 567,
(1871)643, (1881)598.

The parish, containing also the villages of Hole-
kettle, Balmalcolm, Coalton of Burnturk, and Muir-
head, was anciently called Lathrisk, and down to about
1636 had its church (St Ethernascus') on the lands of
Lathrisk. It is bounded N by Collessie, NE by Cults,
E by Ceres, SE by Scoonie, S by Kenuoway, SW by
Markinch, and W by Falkland. Its length, from E to
W, varies between 4| and 6^ miles ; its utmost breadth,
354

from N to S, is 2| miles ; and its area is 7612J aires.
The Eden flows 2J miles east-south-eastward along
the Collessie border, then 1§ mile east-north-eastward
through the north-eastern interior. The northern dis-
trict thus is part of the low flat vallej- of Stratheden,
nowhere sinking below 110, or attaining 150, feet abo?e
sea-level ; but south-eastward the sxirfac? rises to 449
feet near Parkwell and 814 on Clatio HiU. The rofks
include some trap, but are chiefly carboi iferous ; sai.d-
stone, limestone, coal, and a fine ki d o.*' trap have been
worked ; and ironstone also is fou/id. Th soil of ihe
valley is argillaceous alluvium, light fiable mould, or
moss-covered sand ; on the higher grounds and the
hills, is partly strong and clayey, partly light and
friable, and partly of other and inferior qualities. More
than half of the land is in a state of excellent cultiva-
tion, and much of the high grounds consists of capital
pasture. The antiquities include remains of circumval-
lations on Bauden and Downfield Hills ; the barrows of
Pundler's Knowe, Lowrie's Knowe, Lackerstone, and
five other places ; a cavern at Clatto, formerly com-
municating with a tower, and notable in old times for
the Seatons' deeds of rapine and bloodshed ; and the
sites of two pre-Reformation chapels at Clatto and
Chapel-Kater. Mansions, noticed separately, are Lath-
risk and Ramornie ; and 8 proprietors hold each an
annual value of £500 and upwards, 8 of between £100
and £500, 7 of from £50 to £100, and 17 of from £20
to £50. Giving off since 1882 a portion to the quoad
sacra parish of Ladybank, Kettle is in the presbytery of
Cupar and synod of Fife ; the living is worth £427. A
public school, built in 1876 at a cost of £3500, with
accommodation for 400 children, had (1881) an average
attendance of 221, and a grant of £193, 7s. 6d. Valua-
tion (1860) £12,375, (1883) £13,636, 6s. 9d. Pop.
(1801) 1889, (1831) 2071, (1861) 2474, (1871) 2323.
(1881) 2054.— Ord S^cr., sh. 40, 1867.

Kettle Bridge. See Holekettle.

Kettleholm Bridge, a hamlet in St Mungo parish,
Dumfriesshire, on the Water of Milk, 3 miles S by E of
Lockerbie.

Kiel, a burn in Largo parish, Fife, formed by Bog-
hall and Gilston Burns, in the NE of the parish, and
running 3^ miles southward to Largo Bay at Lower
Largo.

Kiel or Kilcolmkill, an old church and churchyard in
the lower part of Ardchattan parish, Argyllshire, 3
miles N by W of Connel Ferry. Of the church only a
few traces remain.

Kiels or Kilcolmkill ('church of Columba'), a pre-
Reformation parish, now forming part of the parish of
Southend, in the extreme S of Kintyre, Argyllshire.
Its old church stands in a burying-ground quite close
to the shore, and is traditionally said to have been built
by St Columba. It is 75 feet 3 inches long and 18 feet
10 inches wide ; part of it is rough primitive masonry ;
the rest, an addition, seems Norman work. See also
Keil, Cuthbert Bede's Glcncrcggan (Loudon, 1861),
and Muir's Old Church Architecture of Scotland (Edinb.
1861).

Kier. See Keik.

KilaxTOW. See Killakkow.

Kilbagie, a place with large pulp and fibre works, for
the manufacture of paper, in Clackmannan parish,
Clackmannanshire, 1^ mile N of Kincardine. Near it
is Kilbagie House.

Kilbarchan (formerly Kylhcrchan and Kelherclian ,
Gael. ' the cell of St Barchan '), a parish containing a
town of the same name in the centre of Renfrewshire.
It is bounded N by Houston parish, at the NE corner by
Erskine, Inchinnan, and Renfrew, SE by Abbey-Paisley
parish and Lochwinnoch, and W and NW by Kil-
malcolm. The boundary largely follows the courses of
streams, keeping on the N to the line of the Gryfe from
the point of junction with Houston j^arish downwards to
the confluence of the Gryfe and Black Cart ; and on the
SE side, excejjt for about 1 mile, to that of the Black
Cart, from the junction just mentioned upwards to Castle
Seniple Loch (a distance in a straight line of 6i, or, in-

KILBARCHAN

KILBARCHAN

eluding windings, of 9, miles) ; while on the SW it fol-
lows the lines of Loclier "Water and Bride's Burn. The
greatest length, from NE at the junction of the Gryfe
and Black Cart to SW near Greenside, is 6f miles ; the
greatest breadth, from NW near Torr Hall to SE on the
Black Cart, is 4 miles ; and the area is 9098-411 acres,
of which 92 '609 are water. The height above sea-level
varies from 18 feet at the NE corner to 620 at the SW
and 550 on the NW, there being a very rapid rise near
the centre of the parish. Almost the whole of the sur-
face is under cultivation or woodland. On the E side
of the town is an isolated eminence known as Barr Hill ;
and the rising-grounds to the W, though of inconsider-
able height, command a fine view, extending from Ailsa
Craig to Ben Lomond, from the Argyllshire and Perth-
shire Grampians to the northern Lowthers in the upper
part of the valley of the Clyde ; and even afiording, in
very favourable weather, a peep of Arthur's Seat at
Edinburgh. The soil is mostly good, being on the
lower ground alluvial, and elsewhere clay (S and SW)
and gravel (N and NW). The underlying rocks are
sandstone, basalt, volcanic ash, and limestone, with
beds of coal and iron. The beds of economic value are
all extensively worked, as is also a bed of a peculiar
description of basalt, which has been found suitable for
the construction of ovens. The volcanic rocks are pretty
rich in various minerals. The drainage of the parish is
effected by the Gryfe and Black Cart and their tribu-
taries, of which the Locher, besides tracing part of the
SW boundary, passes NE through the parish, and flows
into the Gryfe. There are several small falls along its
course. The old church of St Barchan, bishop and
confessor, was in the village, and was one of those in
Sti'athgryfe bestowed on Paisley by Walter Fitz-Allan,
High Steward of Scotland ; and Bishop Jocelin of Glas-
gow confirmed the church to the monks for their own
use. St Barchan had at one time a feast, probably on
the day of the annual fair. In 1401 King Robert III.
confirmed an endowment granted by Thomas Crawfurd
of Auchiuames for the support of a chaplain to officiate
at the Virgin Mary's altar in the parish chi;rch of Kil-
barchan, and also in a chapel dedicated to St Catherine,
which had been erected by Crawfurd in the church-
yard, and of which some remains still exist. There
was also a chapel dedicated to the Virgin a little to the
E of the castle of Ranfurly, on the farm still called
Prieston. The property called Kirklands was annexed
to it, and the building itself remained in a ruined con-
dition down to 1791. In the SW comer of the parish
there was formerlj' a village called Kenmuir, with a
chapel dedicated to St Bride. Both are alike gone ; but
the burn known as St Bride's Burn, and St Bride's Mill
mark the old associations. Blackston on the Black
Cart was the summer residence of the abbots of Paislej'.
Other antiquities and objects worthy of notice are the
stone of Clochodrick, the Barr Hill, and the castle of
Eanfurly. Clochodrick ('the stone of Roderick' — pos-
sibly some member of the Houston family, or, according
to others, dach-na-druidh, 'the stone of the Druids')
is on the bank of St Bride's Burn, on the SW border of
the parish, 2 miles from the village, and is separ-
ately described. The name is at least 700 years old.
The Barr Hill, or Bar of Kilbarchan, has on its top the
remains of an old encampment, defended by a semi-
circular rampart of loose stones, and said to be Danish.
Ranfurly Castle in the N of the parish, about IJ mile N
of the village, was at one time the seat of the Knoxes.
From this family were descended John Knox the Re-
former and Andrew Knox, who, on the restoration of
Episcopacy in 1606, was appointed Bishop of the Isles,
and in 1622 transferred to the see of Raphoe in Ireland.
From them the Irish Knoxes, Viscounts Northland and
Barons Ranfurly, are sprung. The estate was alienated
in 1665, when it passed into the possession of the Dun-
donald family, by whom it was sold to the family of
Hamilton of Holmhead. Near the castle is an artificial
mound, 330 feet in circumference near the base and 20 feet
high. Another old baronial castle stood on the estate
of Auchiuames, but it was demolished in 1762. Auch-

inames belonged to a branch of the Crawfurds (aiready
mentioned) from the 14th century to the 18th, when it
was broken up and sold in portions. The leading family
in the parish now is Napier of Milliken, directly de-
scended from the Napiers of Merchiston, the first of
whom flourished in the reign of Alexander III. The
chief part of the estate belonged at one time to the
Wallaces of Elderslie, and constituted a barony called
Johnston ; from the Wallaces it passed to the Houstons,
who in turn sold it in 1733 to the ancestor of the present
proprietor, who gave it his own name of Milliken, while
the Houston family retained the old name and applied it
to their estate of East Cochrane, the present Johnstone.
Milliken House is a handsome Grecian building, erected
in 1829 near the left bank of the Black Cart. Other
mansions are Blackstone House, Glentyan House, Craig-
ends, and Clippens. The parish is traversed by one of
the main roads from Paisley to Greenock, and also by
the Glasgow, Paisley, and Greenock section of the Glas-
gow and South-Western railway, which passes through
it for a distance of 3^ miles. Houston (Crosslee) and
Bridge of Weir stations on this branch, and Milliken
Park and Johnstone stations on the Glasgow, Paisley,
and Ayr section of the same railway, aftbrd means of
access ; and the latter, though outside the parish, are
the stations nearest the village.

Besides the post-town of the same name the parish
contains the village of Linwood and part of the village
of Bridge of Weir. The town of Kilbaechan is near
the centre of the parish, 1 mile NW of Milliken Park
railway station, 1^ W of Johnstone, 5 miles W by
S of Paisley, and 12 W by S of Glasgow. It occupies
a rising-gi-ound sloping gently S towards Kilbarchan
Burn, and is sheltered on three sides by well wooded
eminences rising to a height of nearly 200 feet. It
became a burgh of barony previous to 1710, but had
no trade till 1739, when a linen factory was established,
and three years afterwards another was established for
the manufacture of lawns, cambrics, etc. for the Dublin
market. There are now about 1000 looms at work, em-
ployed in the manufacture of silk and cotton fabrics and
Paisley shawls. In the centre of the town is a steeple
erected in 1755, with a schoolhouse of later date. In a
niche in the steeple there was placed in 1822 a statue of
Habbie Simpson, piper of Kilbarchan, who died about
the beginning of the 17th century, and on whom Robert
Sempill of Beltrees wrote a well-known poem. He is
also mentioned in the song of Maggie Lauder. The
public hall was originally a chartist meeting-house of
small size, but it was in 1872 acquired by the Good
Templar Lodge of the place, and was then considerably
enlarged and improved. It is now used for miscellaneous
public meetings. The parish church is in the form of a
St George's cross. It was built in 1724, and has 620
sittings. The U.P. church was originally built in 1786,
but imderwent extensive repair and alteration in 1S72
at a cost of over £1000. It contains 906 sittings.
There is a post office under Johnstone, with money
order and savings' bank departments, a gas company
(1846), two public libraries, a branch of the Clydesdale
Bank, an agi-icultural society, a curlers' society, a
masonic lodge (St Barchan's)," dating from 17S4,_ and
several friendly societies. There used to be a fair on
Lillia's da)^, the 3d Tuesday of July ; and there is a
horse fair still on St Barchan's da}-, the first Tuesday
of December, both o. s. Robert Allan (1774-1841),
author of a number of songs and poetical pieces of some
merit, was a native of and a weaver in Kilbarchan.
Population of the town (1740) about 200, (1791) 1584,
(1831) 2333, (1861) 2530, (1871) 2678, (1881) 2548, of
whom 1385 were females. Houses (1881) 601 inhabited,
14 vacant, 2 building.

Since 1880 giving off the quoad sacra parish of Lin-
wood, Kilbarchan is in the presbytery of Paisley and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; the living is worth £405.
Churches, other than those already mentioned, are
noticed under LixwooD and Bridge of Weir. The
school board has under its management Kilbarchan
public, Kilbarchan female public, Linwood public, and

355

KILBERRY

Linwood Eoman Catholic schools. These, with accom-
modation for respectively 300, 177, 225, and 100 pupils,
had in 18S1 an average attendance of 254, 143, 174, and
121, and grants of £285, 3s. 9d., £125, 2s. 6d., £160, lis.,
and £85, 5s. Besides the industries formerly mentioned
there is a print work on the Locher, and a number of
quarries and coal and iron pits. The principal land-
owner is Sir Robert J. M. Napier, Bart, of Milliken,
who owns about one-fourth of the landed property.
Seven proprietors besides have an annual value of £500
or upwards, 20 hold between £500 and £100, and there
are a number of smaller amount. Valuation (1860)
£26,361, (1883) £43,469, 15s. lOd. Pop. of civil
parish, including villages, (1755) 1485, (1774) 2305,
(1801) 3151, (1831) 4806, (1861) 6348, (1871) 6093,
(1881) 6868 ; of ecclesiastical parish (1881) i36B.—Orcl.
<!>'ur., sh. 30, 1866. See also Crawford's History of
Renfrewshire (1710), Hamilton's Lcscriptioii of the
Sheriffdom of Lanark and Renfrew (Maitland Club,
1831), Orig. Paroch. Scoticc, vol. i. (Ban. Club, 1851).

Kilberry Castle, a mansion in Kilcalmonell parish,
Argyllshire, near the E shore of the Sound of Jura, 16
miles "\YSW of Tarbert. Founded 1497, burned by an
English pirate 1513, rebuilt 1844, and enlarged 1871, it
is the seat of Jn. Campbell, Esq. (b. 1844 ; sue. 1861),
who holds 20,000 acres, of £2173 annual value.

Kilbimie, a town and a parish in Cunninghame dis-
trict, N Ayrshire. The town stands on the river Gar-
nock, 200 feet above sea-level, and 9 furlongs NNW of
Kilbirnie station on the Glasgow and South-Western
railway, this being 2f miles NNE of Dairy Junction, 9 4
N of Irvine, 125 S W of Paisley, and 19| SW of Glasgow.
It chiefly consists of a long street running southward
near the right bank of the river, with a shorter street
striking off westward from its upper end ; but it also
includes a suburb, with rows of dwelling-houses and
two public works, on the left bank of the river. In
1742 it contained only three houses, in 1792 not more
than eighty ; but, having risen to be one of the most
prosperous small seats of population in Scotland, it
offers now a thriving, cleanly, and cheerful appearance,
and largely consists of new or recent houses, built of a
light-coloured sandstone. Ranking as a free burgh of
barony in virtue of rights conferred on Kilbirnie manor
before the toAvn itself had any existence, it conducts
much business in connection with neighbouring mines
and iron-works ; is the seat of 2 flax-spinning, linen
thread, and wincey factories, 5 fishing-net factories, 2
rope-works, and engineering works ; and has a post
office, with money order, savings' bank, and telegraph
departments, a branch of the Clydesdale Bank, 2 inns,
a public library, a Good Templars' hall, a gas-light com-
pany, and a horse fair on the third Wednesday of May,
0. s. The parish church, 3 furlongs S of the town, was
anciently held by Kilwinning Abbey, and dedicated to
St Brendan of Clonfert, an Irish missionary to the
Western Isles about the year 545. Repaired in 1855, it
comprises a plain pre-Reformation oblong nave, a square
W tower, a SE aisle (1597), and the NE Crawfurd
gallery (1654). The pulpit and this Crawfurd gallery
exhibit ' some rich carved woodwork of the Renaissance
period, a thing,' observes Dr Hill Burton, 'very rarely
to be found in the churches of Scotland. Captain
Thomas Crawfurd of Jordanhill, who captured DuM-
B.VETON Castle in 1571, and died in 1603, is buried in
the churchyard. His monument is peculiar and at-
tractive. There is a recumbent statue of the warrior
himself, and of his wife, side by side, after the old
Gothic fashion, which was becoming obsolete. The
figmcs lie within a quadrangular piece of stonework like
a sarcophagus, and they are seen through slits which
admit a dim light, giving the statues a mysterious
funereal tone.' The first Free church, built soon after
the Disruption, was repaired and decorated in 1875 ;
the second or West Free church, belonging till 1876 to
the Reformed Presbyterians, was built in 1824. There
are also Glengarnock U.P. church (1870) and St Bridget's
Roman Catholic church (1862). Pop. (1851) 3399, (1861)
3245, (1871) 3313, (1881) 3404, of whom 1903 were
356

KILBIRNIE

females. Houses (1881) 681 inhabited, 14 vacant, 1
building.

The parish, containing also the greater part of Glen-
GAiixocK village, is bounded N and NE by Lochwin-
noch in Renfrewshire, E by Beith, SE, S, and W by
Dairy, and NW by Largs. Its utmost length, from
NNW to SSE, is 7i miles ; its utmost breadth is 3§
miles ; and its area is 10,641i acres, of which 306 J are
water. The Maich, entering from Renfrewshire, flows
4 miles south-south-eastward along the Lochwinnoch
border till it falls into Kilbirnie Loch (llfxSJ furl. ;
105 feet), a beautiful lake on the Beith boundary, well
stored with pike, perch, and trout, and sending off
Dubbs Burn north-north-eastward to Castle-Semple
Loch. The Garxock, also rising among the Mistylaw
Hills, at an altitude of 1600 feet above sea-level, winds
7i miles south-south-eastward through the interior,
then 1^ mile south -south -westward along or near to the
south-eastern boundary, till it passes off into Dairy.
Pundeavon, Paduff, and Pitcon Burns run south-south-
eastward to the Garnock, the last-named tracing most
of the western boundary. The surface sinks in the
extreme S to 93 feet above sea-level, and rises thence
northward to 454 feet near Balgry, 1000 at High Blae-
berry Craigs, 710 near Glengarnock Castle, 1083 at
Burnt Hill, 1267 at Ladyland Moor, 1526 at Black Law,
1663 at Mistylaw, 1615 at High Corbie Kuowe, and
1711 at the Hill of Stake, the three last culminating on
the northern confines of the parish, and commanding
one of the widest and most brilliant panoramic views in
Scotland. Thus the south-eastern district is all low,
and either flat or diversified with gentle rising-grounds ;
the central district rises somewhat rapidly north-
westward, and offers a considerable variety of hill and
dale ; and the northern, occupying fully one-third of
the entire area, is all upland, 'uitli irregular ranges of
dusky hills, mossy, heathy, and sterile. The rocks in
the lowlands belong to the Carboniferous formation ;
tliose of the uplands are eruptive, and chiefly consist of
greenstone and porphyry. Sandstone, limestone, coal,
and ironstone abound among the carboniferous rocks,
and have all been largely worked. A vein of graphite
or plumbago also exists there ; and a vein of barytes,
and some agates and other rare minerals, are found
among the hills. The soil in the south-eastern district
is a deep alluvial loam, a rich clayey loam, or a light
red clay ; in the central district is mostly light, dry,
and fertile ; and in the uplands is much of it moss of
various depths, resting on light-coloured clay. Rather
less than one-sixth of the entire area is in tillage ;
plantations cover nearly 100 acres ; and the rest is either
meadow, hill-pasture, or waste. On the hills are
remains of several tumuli ; and a pyramidal mound at
Nether jMill measures 54 feet in length, 27 in breadth,
and 17 in height. Formerly this parish was divided
among the three baronies of Kilbirnie, Glengarnock, and
Ladyland, of which the two last are noticed separately,
whilst the first passed by marriage from the Barclays to
the Craufurds in 1470, and from them to the Lindsays
in 1661, thus coming to the fourth Earl of Glasgow in
1833. (See Crawford Priory and Garxock.) Kil-
bii'nie Place, accidentally burned in 1757, consists of a
rectangular 13th or 14th century tower, measuring 41
by 32 feet, with walls 7 feet in thickness, and of a still
more ruinous three-storied addition of 1627 ; scarce a
vestige remains of its gardens, orchard, and avenues.
Five proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and
upwards, 7 of between £100 and £500, 16 of from £50
to £100, and 37 of from £20 to £50. Kilbirnie is in
the presbytery of Irvine and synod of Glasgow and Ayr ;
the living is worth £263. Bridgend, Glengarnock, and
Ladyland public schools, and Kilbirnie female industrial
school, with respective accommodation for 211, 400,
312, and 116 children, had (1881) an average attendance
of 172, 244, 218, and 92, and grants of £149, 12s.,
£213, 10s., £216, 2s., and £80, 10s. Valuation (1883)
£19,504, 14s., phis £733 for railway. Pop. (1801) 959,
(1841) 2631, (1851) 5484, (1861) 5265, (1871) 4953, (1881)
52i3.—Ord. Sur., shs. 22, 30, 1865-66. See The Farish

KILBLANE

Church and Churchyard of Kilhirnie (Beitli, 1850), and
John S. Dobie's Church of Kilhirnie (Edinb. 1880).

Kilblane, an ancient parish in the southern extremity
of Kintyre, Argyllshire, united with Kilcolmkill to form
the modern parish of Southend. Some remains of its
church still exist.

Kilbrandon and Kilchattan, a united parish in Nether
Lorn district, Argyllshire, comprising the four pre-
Reformation parishes of Kilbrandon, Kilchattan, Kil-
bride, and Kilchoan. It comprehends a section of the
mainland, with the inhabited islands of Seil, Luing,
Easdale, Shuna, Torsay, and Inis Capel ; contains the
villages of Toberonichy, Ellanabriech, and Easdale, the
last with a post and telegraph office under Oban ; and
enjoys communication by means of the Clyde and Oban
steamers. It is bounded N by the Sound of Lorn, NE
by the Sound of Clachan, E by Kilninver parish, S by
the northern outlet of the Sound of Jura, and W by the
Atlantic Ocean. Its length, from N to S, inclusive of
intersecting sea-belts, is 10 miles ; its breadth is 6 miles ;
and its area is 14,457 acres, of which 996^ are foreshore
and 74f water. The inhabited islands are all separately
noticed. The mainland section, comprising 5052^ acres,
is connected with Seil island by a bridge, and chiefly con-
sists of hill pasture. No ground either in it or in the isles
rises higher than from 600 to 800 feet above sea-level.
The rocks of the mainland section are interesting chiefly
for a marble which was at one time worked near Ard-
maddy ; those of the islands are remarkable for extensive
slate quarries, and for ores of silver, copper, lead, zinc,
and iron. Much waste land has been reclaimed, and agri-
culture has been greatly improved. The ruins of several
old fortalices are the only antiquities. Aedmaddy
Castle and Ardincaple House have separate articles
and the Earl of Breadalbane is much the largest proprie-
tor, 1 other holding an annual value of more, and 3 of
less, than £100. Kilbrandon is in the presbytery of Lorn
and synod of Argyll ; the living is worth £240. The old
parish church, built about 1743 on the S end of Seil island,
near Cuan ferry, is now abandoned, a new and hand-
some edifice, with stained-glass windows, having been
erected in a more central part of the island. There is also
a Free church ; and three public schools — Ai'dincaple,
Easdale, and Luing — with respective accommodation for
40, 240, and 100 children, hacl (1881) an average attend-
ance of 14, 161, and 37, and grants of £22, 3s. Id.,
£157, 6s. 6d., and £22, 16s. 4d. Valuation (I860)
£8064, (1883) £6521. Pop. (1801) 2278, (1831) 2833,
(1861) 1859, (1871) 1930, (1881) 1767, of whom 1621
were Gaelic-speaking, and 93 belonged to the main-
land,

Kilbrandon or Kilbrennan Sound, a sea-belt of Bute
ani Argyll shires, commencing at the convergence of
Loch Fyne and the Kyles of Bute, and extending south-
by-westward between Arran island and Kintyre penin-
sula. It measures 27 miles in length, and from 3 to
15 miles in breadth, and is usually a good herring
fishing station. Its name signifies the 'church of
Brendan,' i.e., of St Brendan of Clonfert, who visited
the Western Isles in 5i5.—Ord. Sur., shs. 20, 21, 12,
13, 1870-76.

Kilbride, a hamlet in South Uist island, Outer Heb-
rides, Inverness-shire, 9 miles from Lochboisdale Pier.
It has a post office under Lochmaddy.

Kilbride. See Kilbrandon and Kilchattan.

Kilbride, an ancient chapelry in Kirkmabreck parish,
SW Kircudbrightshire. Its chapel stood near the shore
of Wigtown Bay, 2| miles SSE of Creetown,

Kilbride. See Kilmore and Kilbride.

Kilbride, a parish in Arran island, Buteshire. Com-
prising most of the E side of Arran, and including Holy
Island, it extends from Loch Ranza on the NNW to
Dippin Head on the SSE, and contains the post-office
villages of Lochranza, Corrie, Brodick, and Lamlash.
It is bounded along most of the W by the Arran water-
shed, which separates it from Kilmory, on the N by the
Sound of Bute, and on all other sides by the Firth of
Clyde. Its utmost length, from NNW to SSE, is 19|
miles; its utmost breadth, from E to AV, is 6 miles; and

KILBRIDE

its area is 38,985 acres. The surface, the principal
natural features, and the chief artificial objects have all
been noticed in our article on Arran, and in other
articles to which that one refers. The Duke of Hamilton
is much the largest proprietor, 1 other holding an
annual value of more, and 1 of less, than £100. Includ-
ing the quoad sacra parish of Brodick, Kilbride is in
the presbytery of Kintyre and synod of Argyll ; the
living is worth £362. The parish church, at Lamlash,
was built in 1773, and contains 560 sittings ; and there
are three Free churches of Lochranza, Kilbride, and
Whiting Bay. Lamlash public, Whiting Bay public,
Brodick, and Corrie schools, with respective accommo-
dation for 138, 120, 99, and 66 children, had (1881) an
average attendance of 68, 50, 74, and 20, and grants of
£58, 17s., £52, 19s., £60, lis., and £24, 5s. Valuation
(1860) £6211, (1883) £9577. Pop. (1801) 2183, (1841)
2786, (1861) 2441, (1871) 2380, (1881) 2176, of whom
971 were Gaelic-speaking, and 1183 were in the ecclesias-
tical parish of Kilbride.— Ort^. Sur., shs. 21, 13, 1870.

Kilbride, East, a small town and a parish on the
western border of the Middle Ward of Lanarkshire.
The town, towards the NE corner of the parish, stands
590 feet above sea-level at the terminus of a branch
line incorporated in 1863-65, by road being 8 miles SSE
of Glasgow, 6^ W by S of Hamilton, and 8| NNW of
Strathaven, by rail 4i ESE of Busby, 8| SE of Pollok-
shaws Junction, and 12| SSE of Glasgow. An ancient
place of poor appearance, towards the close of the reign
of Queen Anne it was made a burgh of barony, with a
weekly market and three annual fairs ; and it now has
a post oSice under Glasgow, a branch of the Clydesdale
Bank, gasworks, and a fair on the Friday after 10 June.
Places of worship are the parish church (1774 ; 900
sittings), a Free church, and a U.P. church (1791 ; 913
sittings). Pop. (1841) 926, (1861) 1171, (1871) 1100,
(1881)1118.

The parish, containing also the villages of Auldhouse,
Jackton, Kittockside, Nerston, and Maxwelton, a third
of the town of Busbt, and the stations of Hairmyres
and Thornton Hall, comprises the ancient parishes
of East Kilbride and Torrance. It is bounded N by
Carmunnock and Cambuslang, E by Blantyre and Glass-
ford, SE and S by Avondale, and W by Loudoun in
Ayrshire, Eaglesham in Renfrewshire, and the Lanark-
shire section of Cathcart. Its utmost length, from N to
S, is 9| miles ; its breadth varies between 2^ and 5J
miles; and its area is 22,797| acres, of which 37f are
water. Four rivulets or their head-streams, rising in
the interior, run divergently — Cakler Water, 2J miles
east-by-northward along the southern boundary on its
way to the Avon ; White Cart Water, 7J miles north-
north-westward along the western boundary ; the Kit-
toek, past East Kilbride town and Kittockside village,
westward to the White Cart ; and the Calder or Rotten
Calder, 7| miles north-north-eastward, chiefly along the
eastern boundary, on its way to the Cl3'de. The surface
declines along the White Cart in the NW to 200, along
the Rotten Calder in the NE to 450, and along Calder
Water in the SE to 690, feet above sea-level ; between
these points it attains 692 feet near Rogerton, 719 at
Lickpriviek, 726 at Crossbill, 791 at Raahead, 1130 at
Ardochrig Hill, and 1215 at Ellrig. Thus a gradual
southward ascent, consisting of a regular succession of
small hills, with, very little intervening level ground,
occupies all the distance from Crossbasket to Ellrig ;
sloping grounds occupy much of the western and the
eastern borders ; and high moors, extending outward
from Ellrig, occupy nearly all the extreme S. The
rocks are partly eruptive, partly carboniferous. Lime-
stone and sandstone, both of excellent quality, have been
very largely worked, as also have Roman cement and
potter's clay. Ironstone is mined at Crossbasket ; but
the coal is of limited quantity, and of very indiff'erent
quality. Quartz nodules, too, pyrites, shorl, galena,
and some other minerals are found. The soil is very
various, and much of it still remains in a mossy condi-
tion, though agricultural improvement has been actively
carried on. East Kilbride barony, which comprised

357

KILBRIDE, WEST

nearly two-thirds of the parish, belonged to successively
the ComjTis, the Lord High Stewards of Scotland, and
the Lindsays of Duxkod, whose stately stronghold,
Mains Castle, is now a ritin, 7 furlongs NNW of the
town. The site only is left of Lickprivick Castle, 2
miles SSW, which for several centuries was the seat of
Lickprivicks of that ilk. Harelaw Cairn, on Raahead
farm, was finally demolished in 1808 ; and another cairn
near Mains Castle has likewise disappeared. The famous
anatomists, William Hunter, M.D., F.R.S. (1718-83),
and his brother, John (1728-93), were born at Long
Calderwood ; and the cottage of Forefaulds, on the
Long Calderwood property, was the birthplace of John
Struthers (1776-1853), author of The Poor Man's Sab-
bath. Mount Cameron, 7 furlongs ESE of the town, from
soon after the '45 till her death in 1773, was the residence
of the well-known Jacobite lady, Mrs Jean Cameron.
Mansions are Calderwood Castle, Cleughearn Lodge,
Crossbasket, Torrance, Lawmuir, and Limekilns, of
which the four first are noticed separately ; and 11 pro-
prietors hold each an annual value of £500 and upwards,
53 of between £100 and £500, 31 of from £50 to £100,
and 44 of from £20 to £50. Giving otf ecclesiastically
two portions to Carmunnock and Chapelton, East Kil-
bride is in the presbytery of Hamilton and synod of
Glasgow and Ayr ; the living is worth £465. Auld-
house. East Kilbride, and Jaekton public schools, and
Maxwelton endowed school, with respective accommo-
dation for 98, 314, 70, and 127 children, had (1881) an
average attendance of 43, 178, 37, and 66, and grants
of £47, 19s., £180, 16s., £33, 7s. 6d., and £57, 18s.
Valuation (1860) £26,181, (1883) £40,355, 3s. 7d. Pop.
(1801) 2330, (1831) 3789, (1861) 4064, (1871) 3861,
(1881) 3975, of whom 3226 were in the ecclesiastical
parish.— Onf. Siir., shs. 23, 22, 1865. See David Ure's
History and Antiquities of Eutherglen and East Kilbride
(Glasgow, 1793).

Kilbride, West, a small town and a coast parish of
Cunniughame, NW Ayrshire. The town, standing 1
mile inland and 150 feet above sea-level, has a station
on the Fairlie branch of the Glasgow and South-AVestern
railway, i\ miles NNW of Ardrossan and 35| WSW of
Glasgow. Its site is a finely sheltered depression, on
tiny Kilbride Burn. An ancient place, it at one time
possessed a number of mills and other works, which all
have disappeared ; and weaving and hand-sewing for the
manufacturers of Glasgow and Paisley, the present staple
employments, are also slowly dying out. It has a post
ofiice, with money order, savings' bank, and telegi-aph
departments, a branch of the Commercial Bank, 3 inns,
gasworks, a Good Templars' hall, and a cemetery, in the
centre of which is a monument to Prof. Simson. The
parish church is a handsome Early English edifice of
1873, with 610 sittings and a spire 100 feet high. A new
Free church, French Gothic in style, with 450 sittings
and a spire 120 feet high, was built in 1881 at a cost of
£3500; and a new U.P. church of 1882-83 (400 sittings)
cost £2500. Pop. (1861) 1083, (1871) 1218, (1881) 1363,

The parish is bounded N by Largs, NE by Dairy,
SE by Ardrossan, and SW, W, and NW by the Firth
of Clyde. Its utmost length, from N to S, is 6| miles ;
its utmost breadth, from E to W, is 5 miles ; and its
area is 11,535 acres, of which 1415 are foreshore and f
is water. The coast, 9 miles in extent, at Ardneil
B.VNK, near Farland Head, rises steeply to 456 feet
above sea-level ; but elsewhere the shore is low and
shelving, and consists of alternate sandy bays and sand-
stone reefs. Inland the surface rises eastward to 715
feet at Black Hill, 1270 at Kaim Hill, 870 at Glentane
Hill, 1081 at Caldron Hill, 551 at Law Hill, and 446
at Tarbert Hill — summits tliese of rolling continuous
ridges that command magnificent views of the waters
andscreens of the Firth of Clyde. Kilbride, Southannan,
and three other burns, which rise near the eastern bor-
der and run to the Firth, in rainy weather sometimes
acquire much volume and force ; and Southannan Burn,
traversing a romantic glen, forms a series of beautiful
falls. Basalt, porphyry, and Old Red sandstone are
the predominant rocks ; a stratum of breccia on Kaim
958

KILCALMONELL AND KILBERRY

Hill has been quarried for mill -stones ; and slight veins
of limestone appear at Farland Head. The soil on low
portions of the seaboard and the centre, amounting to
one-fifth or more of the entire area, is partly sand,
partly poor gravel, partly a rich deep dark moidd ; on
some rising-grounds and on the skirts of some of the
hills, is loamy or calcareous ; and on most of the up-
lands, is either spongy or heathy moor. About 170
acres are under wood, nearly one-third of all the land
is either pastoral or waste, and the rest is either regu-
larl}' or occasionally in tillage. Dairy farming and the
growing of early potatoes form the main elements in the
agricultural industry. Since the opening of the railway
in ISSO, the seaboard of the parish is graduallj" becom-
ing a favourite resort for summer visitors, principally
from Glasgow ; and for their accommodation several
villas have lately been built along the coast. Antiquities
are several tumuli, remains of a circular watch tower on
Auld Hill, sites of signal-posts on Auld, Tarbert, Law,
and Kaim Hills, and the ruins of Portincross, Law, and
Southannan Castles. One of the large ships of the Spanish
Armada of 1588 sank in 10 fathoms of water very near
Portincross Castle ; and one of its cannon is mounted on
the Castle Green. In 1826, on a hillside near Hunterston,
a shepherd found an ancient Celtic gold and silver brooch ;
and 300 old silver coins, mostly of the reign of Queen
Elizabeth, were turned up by "the plough in 1871 on
Chapelton farm. Robert Simson, M. D. (1687-1768), pro-
fessor of mathematics in Glasgow University, and trans-
lator and editor of Euclid, and General Robert Boyd,
lieutenant-governor of Gibraltar during the famous siege
of that great fortress in 1782, were natives of West
Kilbride. Mansions are Ardneil, Carlung, Hunterston,
and Seaview ; and 5 proprietors hold each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 14 of between £100 and
£500, 7 of from £50 to £100, and 15 of from £20 to £50.
Giving otf quoad sacra a fragment to New Ardrossan,
West Kilbride is in the presbytery of Irvine and synod
of Glasgow and Ayr ; the living is worth £409. A
public school, with accommodation for 250 children,
had (1881) an average attendance of 195, and a grant of
£168, 9s. Valuation (1860) £13,115, (1883) £18,590, 3s.,
2Jlus£i9Mfor railway. Pop. (1801) 795, (1831)1685,
(1861) 1968, (1871) 1880, (1881) 2088, of whom 2058
were in the ecclesiastical parish. — Ord. Sur., shs. 21,
22, 1870-65.

Kilbryde Castle, a fine old castle in Dunblane parish,
Perthshire, picturesquely seated on the right bank of
Ardoch Burn, 3 miles NW of Dunblane town. Dating
from 1460, it was long the residence of the Earls of
Menteith, and, with its barony, was acquired in 1669
by Sir Colin Campbell of Aberuchill. His fifth de-
scendant, Sir James Campbell, ninth Bart, since 1627
(b. 1818 ; sue. 1824), holds 5037 acres in the shire,
valued at £1949 per annum.— 0?-rf. Sur., sh. 39, 1869.

Kilbucho. See Broughton.

Kilcadzow, a village, with a public school, in Carluke
parish, Lanarkshire, 2f miles ESE of Carluke town.
Pop. (1881) 203.

Kilcalmkill, an estate, with a mansion, in Clyne parish,
E Sutherland, on the NE side of Loch Brora, 5 miles
NW of Brora station. It belonged for three centuries
to the Gordons of Carrol, and was purchased, about the
year 1810, by the Duke of Sutherland. Its plantations
group with Carrol Rock to form a picturesque scene ;
and it contains a very striking and romantic cascade. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 103, 1878.

Kilcalmonell and Kilberry, a united coast parish in
Kintyre and Knapdale, Argyllshire, containing the
village of Clachax and the greater part of the small
seaport town of Taubert, each with a post and telegraph
office under Greenock. It is bounded N by South Knap-
dale, E by Loch Fync and by Saddell and Skipness, S by
Killean and Kilchenzie, and W by the Atlantic Ocean.
Its greatest length, from NE to SW, is 14 miles ; its
breadth varies between 2f and 5 miles ; and its area is
51,183^ acres, of which 837 are foreshore and 680
water. West Loch Tarbeut, striking 10 miles north-
north-eastward, intersects the interior, and divides

KILCHATTAN

Kilcalmonell from Kilberry. The W coast of the Knap-
dale or Kilberry section presents a bold front to the
billows of the Atlantic, and is indented towards the
southern extremity by small Loch Stornoway, between
which bay and Loch Tarbert it terminates in the headland
of Ardpatrick (265 feet). The Kintyre coast is lower
and more uniform, comprising a largish aggregate of
sandy shore, and including several small fishing hamlets
and harbours, from which boats go out to the herring
fishery. Of twelve or thirteen fresh-water lakes dotted
over Kilcalmonell, the largest are Lochs Ciaran (85 x 3^
furl. ; 353 feet) and Garasdale (4^ x SJ furl. ; 404 feet),
and both are well stocked with trout. The surface is
hilly but nowhere mountainous, chief elevations from
N to S being Cruach an t-Sorchain (1125 feet), Cnoc a'
Bhaileshios (1383), Cruach nam Fiadh (882), Creag
Loisgte (650), and Cruach McGougain (813). Limestone
occurs, and sea-weed is plentiful. A few of the larger
farms are very well cultivated, and potatoes form the
staple article of farm produce ; but cattle and sheep
grazing is much more important than husbandry. Cairns
are numerous ; remains exist of the chain of forts that
formerly defended the communication between Kintyre
and Knapdale ; and other antiquities, treated in special
articles, are the forts of Duxskeig and the ruins of
Tarbekt Castle. James Colquhoun Campbell, D.D.,
Bishop of Bangor, was born at Stonefield in 1813. The
principal mansions are Ardpatrick, Ballinakill, Dun-
more, Kilberry, Ronachan, and Achglashach ; and 7 pro-
prietors hold each an annual value of £500 and upwards,
2 of between £100 and £500, 7 of from £50 to £100,
and 9 of from £20 to £50. Giving off a portion to the
quoad sacra parish of Tarbert, this parish is in the
presbytery of Kintyre and synod of Argyll ; the living is
worth is £255. There are two churches, sei'ved alter-
nately by the minister — Kilcalmonell (1760 ; 600 sit-
tings) and Kilberry (1821 ; 700 sittings). There are
also Free churches of Kilcalmonell (at Tarbert) and of
Kilberrj- and South Knapdale ; and four public schools —
Clachan, Dunmore, Kilberry, and Whitehouse — vdVn
respective accommodation for 95, 50, 60, and 68 chil-
dren, had (1881) an average attendance of 43, 36, 24, and
49, and grants of £50, £32, 9s., £29, 12s., and £58, 7s. 6d.
Valuation (1860) £9913, (1883) £14,365, 13s. 7d.
Pop. (1801) 2952, (1831) 3488, (1861) 2312, (1871)
2237, (1881) 2304, of whom 1616 were Gaelic-speaking,
and 1043 were in the ecclesiastical parish. — Ord. Sur.,
shs. 20, 29, 28, 1873-83.

Kilchattan. See Kilbeasdox and Jura.

Kilchattan, a village and a bay in Kingarth parish,
Bute island, Buteshire. The village, 7 miles S by E of
Rothesay, forms a curve round the south-western mar-
gin of the bay, and chiefly consists of plain small cottages.
It has a post office i;nder Rothesay ; and a new pier was
built in 1880 at a cost of £2000. Later undertakings
have been the introduction of water at a cost of £1000,
and the erection of a large hotel and several villas.
The bay, measuring If mile across the mouth, and 7
furlongs thence to its inmost recess, has a semi-circular
outline, and looks eastward to the S end of Big Cumbrae.
On 3 Aug. 1881, 5 lives were lost in it by the sinking of a
yacht. Pop.ofvillage(lS81)343.— (9rc?.,SV/-.,sh.21,1870.

Kilchenzie. See Killeax axd Kilchexzie.

Kilchoan, a small harbour and a hamlet, with an
inn and a public school, on the S coast of Ardnamurchan
parish, Argyllshire. The harbour confronts the conver-
gence of Loch Sunart and the Sound of Mull, 6J miles N
by W of Tobermory, and 21 W by S of Salen ; forms
the principal point of communication between much of
the mainland and Tobermory ; and is occasionally the
resort of craft bringing cattle from some of the western
islands to the mainland.

Kilchoan, an ancient parish in Nether Lora district,
Argyllshire, now united with Kilbrandon and Kilchattan.
Its name is popularly abbreviated into Coan or Cuan,
and in that form is applied by the natives to the united
parish.

Kilchoman, a parish in the SW of Islay district,
Argyllshire. Comprising the south-western peninsula

KILCHRENAN

of Islay island, between Lochs Indal and Gruinnard,
two farms beyond the eastern side of that peninsula,
the islets adjacent to the Rhynns of Islay, and the islets
near the mouth of Loch Gruinnard, it contains the
villages of Portnahaven, Port Charlotte, and Port
Wemyss, each of the two former with a post office under
Greenock. Its utmost length, from NNE to SSW, is
16| miles ; its average breadth is 5 miles ; and its area
is 40,164| acres, of which 2006 are foreshore, and
868 water. The coast and the interior are fully
described in our article on Islay ; and the lochs, the
islets, and the villages are noticed in separate articles.
Barely an eleventh of the entire area is in tillage, nearly
all the remainder being pastoral or waste. Mansions
are Cladville House and Sunderland House ; a light-
house is on Oversay islet, adjacent to the Rhynns ; and
the chief antiquities are several standing stones and
sepulchral tumuli, remains of five pre-Reformation
churches, and a finely sculptured cross in the parish
churchyard. Two proprietors hold each an annual value
of £500 and upwards, 2 of between £100 and £500, and
3 of from £20 to £50. Divided ecclesiastically into Kil-
choman proper and Portnahaven, this parish is in the
presbytery of Islay and Jura and synod of Argyll ; the
living is worth £200. The parish church, built in
1826, is a neat edifice, and contains 608 sittings. There
arealso Free churches of Kilchoman and Portnahaven ; and
six public schools — Gortan, Kilchoman, Kilnave, Port
Charlotte, Portnahaven, and Rockside — with total accom-
modation for 528 children, had (1881) an average attend-
ance of 275, and grants amounting to £289, 12s.
A'aluation (1860) £8413, (1883) £11,893, Is. 2d. Pop.
(1801) 2030, (1831) 4822, (1861) 3436, (1871) 2861,
(1881) 2547, of whom 2365 were Gaelic-speaking, and
1687 belonged to Kilchoman ecclesiastical parish.

Kilchousland. See Campbeltown, Argyllshire.

Kilchreggan. See Kilceeggax.

Kilchrenan, a post-office hamlet and a parish in Lorn
district, Argyllshire. The liaiulet_, lying 218 feet above
sea-level at 'the NE boundary, is 1| mile NNW of
North Port-Sonachan pier and ferry on Loch Awe, 14J
WSW of Dalmally, 14* NNW of Inveraray, and 8 SSE
of Taynuilt station ; and has fairs on the Friday in May
and the Thursday in October before Oban.

The present parish, comprising the ancient parishes of
Kilchrenan to the N and Dalavich to the S, and extend-
ing along both sides of the middle reaches of Loch Awe,
is bounded NE by Glenorchy-Inishail, SE by Inveraray,
SW by Kilmichael-Glassary and Kilmartin, and NW
by Kilninver - Kilmelfort and Ardchattan-Muckairn.
Its utmost length, from NE to SW, is 13^ miles ; its
width, from N"W to SE, varies between 2| and Si miles ;
and its area is 23,439^ acres, of which 2208* are water.
From a point 4^ mileslielow its head, Loch Awe (22f x 3
furl, to 31 miles ; 118 feet) stretches 12^ miles north-
north-eastward, its width here ranging between 3 and
9 J furlongs. Loch AviCH (3i miles x 5| furl. ; 311
feet) sends off a stream 1^ mile east-by-southward to
Loch Awe ; Loch Nant (7i x 2f furl. ; 605 feet) lies
on the iluckairn boundary ; and forty-five smaller lochs
and tarns are dotted over the interior and along the
confines of the parish. The surface, hilly everywhere
but hardly mountainous, culminates at 1777 feet on the
south-eastern, and 1407 on the south-western, boundary.
Lesser heights are Cruach Achadh na Craoibhe (907
feet), Bealach Mor (846), Maol Mor (1202), and Meall
Odhar (1255) to the XW, Tom Barra (1052) and Creag
Ghranda (1406) to the SE, of Loch Awe. Slate is the
principal rock. Some excellent arable land and natural
pasturage, with not a little valuable wood, are on the
shores of the lake ; and the heather that once clothed all
the hills has, since the introduction of sheep-farming,
often given place to grass. Mansions, noticed separately,
are Eredixe and Soxachax ; and 2 proprietors hold each
an annual value of more, 8 of less, than £500. Kil-
chrenan and Dalavich is in the presbytery of Lorn and
synod of Argyll ; the living is worth £217. The parish
church, at Kilchrenan hamlet, and Dalavich chapel of
ease, near the W shore of Loch Awe, 9 miles SSW, were

359

KILCHRIST

both built about 1771. Three new public schools— Ard-
chonnel, Dalavich, and Kilchrenan— with respective
accommodation for 40, 40, and 60 children, had (1881)
an average attendance of 32, 8, and 33, and grants of
£35, 10s., £16, 19s. 6d., and £41, 16s. 6d. Valuation
(1860) £4816, (1883) £6045, lis. 4d. Pop. (1801) 1052,
(1831) 1096, (1861) 615, (1871) 484,(1881)504, of whom
444 were Gaelic-speaking.— 0?-d Sur., shs. 45, 47, 1876.

Kilchrist, an ancient parish of SE Ross-shire, now
annexed to Urray. Its ruined church, a little N of the
Muir of Ord, adjacent to the boundary with Inverness-
shire, was the scene in 1603 of the merciless burning of
a whole congregation of the Mackenzies by the Mac-
donells of Glengarry, whose piper marched round the
building, mocking the shrieks of its hapless inmates
vrith. the pibroch since known, under the name of
'Kilchrist,' as the family tune of the Clanranald of
Glengarry.— Or<:^. S^lr., sh. 83, 1881.

Kilchrist, Kirkcudbrightshire. See Kirkchpjst.

Kilchurn Castle, a ruined stronghold in Glenorchy
parish, Argyllshire, on a rocky elevation, alternately
peninsula and island, at the influx of the confluent
Orchy and Strae to Loch Awe, 2^ miles W by N of
Dalmally. Its site, once occupied by a stronghold of
the Macgregors, passed first to Sir Duncan Campbell
of Lochow, ancestor of the Dukes of Argyll, and next
to his younger son, Sir Colin Campbell, a knight of
Rhodes, who founded the noble family of Breadalbane.
The five-storied keep was built by Sir Colin in 1440,
or, according to an Odysseyan legend, by his lady,
■whilst he himself was absent on a crusade to Palestine.
Crusade there was none for more than a hundred years
earlier, so that one may take for what it is worth the
further assertion that she levied a tax of seven years'
rent upon her tenants to defray the cost of erection.
Anyhow, the S side of the castle is assigned to the
beginning of the 16th century ; and the N side, the
largest and the most elegant portion, was erected in
16i5 by the first Earl of Breadalbane. The entire pile
forms an oblong quadrangle, with one corner truncated,
and each of the other towers flanked by roimd hanging
turrets ; was inhabited by the Breadalbane family till
the year 1740 ; and five years later was garrisoned by
Hanoverian troops. Now a roofless ruin, but carefully
preserved from the erosions of time and weather, it
ranks as the grandest of the baronial ruins of the Wes-
tern Highlands, and figures most picturesquely amid the
magnificent scenery of the foot of Loch Awe, immediately
overhung by the stupendous masses of Ben Cruachan.
Wordsworth, who passed by here on 31 Aug. 1803, ad-
dressed some noble lines to Kilchurn Castle, —

' Child of loud-throated War ! the mountain stream
Roars in thy hearing'; but thy hour of rest
Is come, and thou are silent in thy age. . . .
. . . Shade of departed power.
Skeleton of unfleshed humanity,
The chronicle were welcome that should call
Into the compass of distinct regard
The toils and struggles of thy infant years !
Yon foaming flood seems motionless as ice ;
Its dizzy turbulence eludes the eye,
Frozen by distance ; so, majestic pile,
To the perception of this Age appear
Thy fierce beginnings, softened and subdued,
Aud quieted in character — the strife.
The pride, the fury uncontrollable
Lost on the aerial heights of the Crusades ! '

See pp. 138-142 of Dorothy Wordsworth's Tour in Scot-
land (1874); chap. ii. of Alex. Smith's Summer in Sky c
(1865); pp. 215-219 of P. G. \ia,merton's Painter's Camp
in the Highlands (1862) ; and pp. 38-41 of R. Buchanan's
Ilcbrid Isles {1883).— Ord. S^tr., sh. 45, 1876.

Kilcolmkill, an ancient parish in tlie southern ex-
tremity of Kintyre, Argyllshire, united with Kilblane
to form the present parish of Southend. The chief
localities in it are noticed under Keil and Kiels, a con-
traction for Kilcolmkill.

Kilcolmkill. See Morvekn.

Kilcolmkill, Sutherland. See Kilcalmkili..

Kilconquhar, a post-oflice village and a coast parish
iu the East Ncuk of Fife. The village stands on the
360

KILCONQUHAR

northern shore of Kilconquhar Loch, and | mile NE of
Kilconquhar station on the East Fife section of the
North British, this being IJ mile NW of Elie and 12^
E by N of Thornton Junction. Pop., with the N\Y
suburb of Barnyards, (1861) 300, (1871) 381, (1881) 350.
The parish, containing also the villages or hamlets
of Earlsfeiiry, Colinsburgh, Largoward, Williams-
burgh, and Liberty, once comprehended the barony of St
Monance and the parish of Elie. It now is bounded
NE by Cameron, E by Carnbee and Abercrombie, S by
Elie and the Firth of Forth, W by Elie (detached), New-
burn, and Largo, and NW by Ceres. Its utmost length,
from NNW to SSE, is 7| miles ; its breadth varies
between 3 furlongs and 2^ miles ; and its area is 7271^
acres, of which 96| are water and 279^ foreshore. The
coast, extending 32 miles along Largo, Elie, and two
smaller intermediate bays, is partly fringed by low, flat
sandy links, but rises abruptly to 200 feet above sea-
level at Kincraig Hill, from wliicli the surface descends
gradually to the plain between the railway and Colins-
burgh. Thence it rises again with gentle northward
ascent to 300 feet near Balcarres, 500 at Kilbrackmont
Craigs, 600 near Largoward, and 750 at Dunnikirr
Law. Den or Cocklemill Burn, which enters the
Firth at the western boundary, is the principal stream-
let ; and Kilconquhar Loch, measuring 4 by 3 furlongs,
is a beautiful fresh-water lake, wooded on three sides,
and very deep in places. Swans haunt it still, as in
the days of the Witch of Pittenweem, when —

' They took her to Kinneuchar Loch,
And threw the limmer in ;
And a' the swans took to the hills.
Scared wi' the unhaely din."

All the area S of the Eeres and Kilbrackmont ravine
is drained southward by a brook bearing various names,
and terminating in Cocklemill Burn ; and the area N
of the ravine is drained into the basin of the Eden.
The parish is rich in charming scenery of its own ; and
many vantage groimds command magnificent views over
the basins of the Forth and Tay. Partly eruptive
and partly carboniferous, the rocks exhibit juxtaposi-
tions and displacements highly interesting to geologists ;
and they include columnar basalt, sandstone, ironstone,
shale, coal, and limestone, the two last of which have
been long and largely worked. The soil of most of the
coast district is light loam mixed with sand, and else-
where is variously argillaceous loam, black loam, rich
alluvium, and light, sharp, fertile, sandy earth. With
the exception of some 700 acres of wood and plantation,
the links, and a few rocky spots, the entire area is either
under tillage or in a state of drained, enclosed, and im-
proved pasture. Kilconquhar House, | mile NE of the
village and IJ ESE of Colinsburgh, is the seat of John-
Trotter Bethune, who, born in 1827, succeeded as second
Baronet in 1851, and in 1878 established his claim to
the titles of Lord Lindsay of the Byres (ere. 1464), Earl
of Lindsay (1633), Viscount of Garnock (1703), etc. He
holds 2205 acres in the shire, valued at £5548 per
annum. His father, Major-General Sir Henry Linde.say-
Bethune (1787-1851), distinguished himself in Persia,
and received a baronetcy in 1836. Balcarres, a mansion
of singular interest, is noticed separately ; and others
are Cairnie, Charleton, Falfield, and Lathallan. In all,
8 proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and
upwards, 8 of between £100 and £500, 3 of from £50 to
£100, and 29 of from £20 to £50. Giving ofif a portion
to the quoad sacra parish of Largoward, Kilconquhar is
in the presbytery of St Andrews and synod of Fife ; the
living is worth £350, exclusive of a manse and glebe. The
pari.sli church, on a knoll at the W end of tlie village, is a
handsoiue Gothic edifice of 1820-21, with 1035 sittings
and a square tower 80 feet high. There is also a U.P.
church at Colinsburgh ; and three public schools — Colins-
burgh, Earlsferry, and Kilcon(|uhar — with respective
accommodation for 125, 103, and 145 children, had
(1881) an average attendance of 81, 61, and 80, and
grants of £76, 14s. 6d., £54, 13s. 6d., and £75, 9s.
Valuation (1860) £15,656, (18S3) £17,267, 17s. lid.

KILCOY

Pop. (1801) 2005, (1841) 2605, (1861) 2431, (1871) 2018,
(1881) 2053, of whom 1471 were in the ecclesiastical
parish. — Orel. Sur., sh. 41, 1857.

Kilcoy, a hamlet in Killearnan parish, SE Ross-shire,
8 miles WNW of Inverness. It has a cattle fair on the
Monday in May after Amulree. The lands of Kilcoy,
lying around the hamlet and along the Beauly Firth,
were acquired in 1618 by Alexander Mackenzie, fourth
son of the eleventh Barou of Kintail, and now belong
to his eighth descendant, Sir Evan Mackenzie, second
Bart, since 1836 (b. 1816 ; sue. 1845), who holds 24,658
acres in the shire, valued at £7258 per annum. Kilcoy
Castle, now a ruin, was the birthplace of the distin-
guished Lieutenant-General Alex. Mackenzie Eraser of
Inverallochy, who died in 1809. A cairn, to the N of
the ruined mansion, is encompassed with circles of
standing stones, and is one of the largest cairns in the
N of Scotland.— O/Y^. Sur., sh. 83, 1881.

Kilcreggan, a coast village in Roseneath parish, Dum-
bartonshire, at the SE side of the entrance to Loch
Long, directly opposite Gourock, 2f miles E of Strone,
and 3^ N\V of Greenock. Named after an ancient chapel
now extinct, and dating from 1840, it extends nearly
1 mile along the beach, and mainly consists of villas
and pretty cottages, commanding charming views along
the Firth of Clyde. It may well compete in amenities,
in the delights of retirement, and in advantages of com-
munication and supplies, with the other watering-places
on the Clyde ; is a place of call for the steamers plying
from Greenock to Kilmun, Lochgoilhead, and Arrochar ;
and has a post office, with money order, savings' bank,
insurance, and telegraph departments, a steamboat pier,
a recent water supply, a chapel of ease (1872), Roseneath
Free church (built soon after the Disruption), a U.P.
church (c. 1866), and a public school. The police burgh
of Cove and Kilcreggan curves, from the W end of
Kilcreggan proper, north-westward and northward, up
to a point on Loch Long, 2^ miles NE of Strone Point ;
and was constituted by adoption of part of the General
Police and Improvement Act of 1862. Its municipal con-
stituency numbered 238 in 1883, when the annual value
of real property amounted to £12,000, whilst its revenue,
including assessments, was £900 in 1882. Pop. (1871)
878, (1881) S16. —Ord. Sur., shs. 30, 29, 1866-73.

Kildalloig, a mansion in Campbeltown parish, Argyll-
shire, on the S horn of Campbelto^^m Bay, opposite
Devar island, and 3;^ miles ESE of the town. Its owner,
Sir Norman Montgomery Abercromby Campbell, ninth
Bart, since 1623 (b. 1846 ; sue. 1875), holds 1340 acres
in the shire, valued at £380 per annum, — Ord. Sur., sh.
12, 1872.

Kildalton, a parish in Islay district, Argyllshire. It
comprises the south-eastern part of Islay island ; is
bounded on the NW by Killarrow and Kilmeny ; in-
cludes Texa, Cavrach, and Inersay islets, the Ardelister
islands, and the islets off Ardmore Point ; and contains
the village of Port Ellen, with a post and telegraph office
under Greenock. Its utmost length, from NNE to SSW,
is 18 miles ; its utmost breadth is 8 miles ; and its
area is 48,380^ acres, of which 662^ are foreshore and
559J water. The coasts and the interior have alike
been described in our article on Islay. The extent of
land under cultivation bears but a small proportion to
what is waste and reclaimable. A great many acres in
the NE are under brushwood, and a good many acres
are under flourishing plantations. A principal modern
building is a handsome light monumental tower, 80 feet
high, erected to the memory of Mrs Campbell of Islay ;
and the chief antiquities are remains of two Scandi-
navian forts, of the last Islay stronghold of the Mac-
donalds, and of four pre-Reformation chapels. Kildalton,
the principal residence, 5 miles NE of Port Ellen, is the
seat of John Ramsay, Esq., M. P. (b. 1814), who holds
54,250 acres in the shire, valued at £8226 per annum.
Divided ecclesiastically into Kildalton proper and Oa,
this parish is in the presbytery of Islay and Jura and
synod of Argyll ; the living is worth £231. The parish
church, near Ardmore Point, was built in 1777, and
contains 450 sittings. There is a Free church of Kil-
60

KILDONAN

dalton and Oa ; and five public schools — Ardbeg, Glen-
egidale, Kintour, Oa, and Port Ellen — with respective
accommodation for 92, 66, 40, 70, and 250 children,
had (1881) an average attendance of 49, 19, 17, 22, and
145, and grants of £40, 14s., £33, 18s. 6d., £30, 2s. 6d.,
£30, 16s., and £88, 13s. Valuation (1860) £5783, (1883)
£10,033, 17s. 9d. Pop. (1801) 1990, (1841) 3315, (1861)
2950, (1871) 2283, (18S1) 2271, of whom 2127 were Gaelic-
speaking, and 2024 were in Kildalton ecclesiastical parish.

Kildary, a hamlet in Kilmuir-Easter parish, Ross-
shire, on tlie right bank of the Balnagown, with a
station on the Highland railway, 5^ miles NE of Inver-
gordon. It has fairs for live stock on the Tuesday
before the third Thursday of July, and on the Tuesday
of each of the other eleven months before Beauly. Near
it is Kildary House. The Balnagown here is crossed by
an elegant railway viaduct of 50 feet in span, with a 14-
feet archway at the N end.— Orrf. Sur., sh. 94, 1878.

Kildonan (Gael. ' church of St Donnan '), a parish of
E Sutherland, containing the coa.st village of Helms-
dale, with a station on the Sutherland and Caithness
railway, 46 miles SSW of Georgemas Junction, 82^
NNE of Dingwall, and 101^ NNE of Inverne.ss. Con-
taining also the stations and post offices of Kildonan
and Kinbrace, 9^ miles WNW and 16S NW of Helms-
dale, it is bounded W by Farr, N by Farr and Reay,
NE by Halkirk and Latheron in Caithness, SE by the
German Ocean, S by Loth, and SW by Clyne. Its
utmost length, from NW to SE, is 25§ miles ; its width
varies between 4^ and 14:| miles ; and its area is 210
square miles or 138,4061 acres, of which 169 are foreshore
and 3922§ water. The coast, 4§ miles in extent, is an
almost unbroken line of rock or rough gravel, preci-
pitous only towards the NE, where it rises rapidly to
652 feet at the Ord of Caithness. On or near to the
western border, at an altitude of 392 feet, is a chain of
three lakes— Loch nan Cuinne (3 miles x | mile). Loch
a' Chlair (1^ x 1 mile), and Loch Baddanloch (14 mile x 7
furl.), out of which the AUt Ach' na h-Uai' flows 4f
miles east-south-eastward, through Loch-na-moine (7x3
furl. ; 377 feet), till it falls into the river Helmsdale at
a point li mile SSW of Kinbrace station, and 330 feet
above sea-level. The Helmsdale itself is formed by the
confluence of two head-streams, of which the AUt
Airidh-dhamh runs 6| miles south-south-eastward out
of Loch Leum a' Chlamhain (1% x i mile ; 770 feet),
and through Loch Araich-lin (6^ x 2^ furl. ; 451 feet),
whilst the other flows 2§ miles south-by-westward out
of Loch an Ruathair (IJ x f mile ; 415 feet). From
the confluence of these two streams, at a point 3 fur-
longs N by W of Kinbrace station and 362 feet above
sea-level, the Helmsdale or Hie (Ptolemy's Ila) flows
20| miles south-eastward along the Strath of Kildonan,
till it falls into the sea at Helmsdale village. 'The
Helmsdale,' -RTites Mr Archibald Young, 'and the
numerous lochs connected with its basin, aflbrd perhaps
the best trout angling in Scotland. The spring salmon
fishing is excellent. In 1878, up to 1 May, five rods
killed 250 fish. Among the lochs. Loch Leum a'
Chlamhain, Baddanloch, and Loch an Ruathair afford
the best angling. In these three lochs the writer and
two friends^in five days killed with the fly 600 trout,
weighing over 400 lbs. The best day's sport was got in
Loch Leum a' Chlamhain, at the foot of Ben Griam
Mhor, whose summit commands one of the finest views
in Sutherland ; the eye, on a clear day, sweeping over
the counties of Caithness and Sutherland, the Pentland
Firth, and the Orkney Islands' (pp. 32-34, Angler's
and Sketcher's Guide to Sutherland, 1880). The surface
mainly consists of pastoral or moorish uplands, chief
elevations to the NE of the Helmsdale and the Baddan-
loch chain of lakes, as one goes up the strath, being
Creag an Oir-airidh (1324 feet), *Creag Scalabsdale
(1819), Beinn Dubhain (1365), Auchintoul Hill (1135),
the *Knockfin Heights (1442), *Bex Griam Bheag
(1903), and Ben Griam Mhor (1936); to the SW,
Eldrable Hill (1338), *Beinn na Meilich (1940), *Beinn
na h-Urrachd (2046), Creag nam Fiadh (1273), and the
*uorthern shoulder (2250) of Bex ax Armuinx, where

301

KILDONAN

asterisks mark those summits that culminate on the
confines of the parish. The predominant rocks are
granite, syenite, gneiss, mica-slate, and porphjny. _ In
1868-69 the discovery of gold in the drift of the river
Helmsdale 'created gi-eat commotion in the north of
Scotland The intelligence of the discovery spread at
telegraphic speed all over the country ; and thousands
of people, from every part of the kingdom, flocked to
the newlj'-found gold-field. A "city of tents" was
erected in the centre of the auriferous district ; " claims "
were allotted, and " cradles " mounted ; and digging
was commenced with much enthusiasm. At the outset
a fair return was obtained, but it soon began to fail ;
and, having become unremunerativc, the Duke of Suther-
land closed the "claims," and dispersed the diggers.
The total value of the gold found was about £6000.'
Round Helmsdale the soil is light but fertile, whilst up
the Strath of Kildonan there are several small haughs
of similar soil, with rather less sand, which yield good
crops of oats and turnips. The soil on the higher banks
along this strath consists of reddish gritty sand and
peat-earth, in which are embedded numerous detached
pieces of granite or pudding-stone. The bulk of the
agricultural population was displaced by the introduc-
tion of sheep-farming between 1811 and 1831, but it
was mainly removed to the coast district, which then
belonged to Loth parish; and, by the annexation of
that district to Kildonan prior to 1851, the balance of
population for Kildonan parish was more than restored.
Since 1877 the Duke of Sutherland has been reclaiming
1300 acres of moor near Kinbrace station, with the
steam-plough and other machinery expressly adapted
to the work, at a cost of from £15 to £20 per acre.
The object in view is to provide winter feed for sheep,
and the scheme hitherto has proved highly successful,
inasmuch as ' the sheep from this newly-reclaimed land
are the best Scotch mutton in the market, and fetch a
price not touched by any others, viz. 8|d. per lb. ' (pp.
40-47, Trans. Highl. and Ag. Soc, 1880). Ancient
tumuli are numerous ; and remains of circular or Pictish
towers are in several places. The Duke of Sutherland
ovms more than six-sevenths of the entire property, 3
others holding each an annual value of more, and 6 of
less, than £50. Kildonan is in the presbytery of Dor-
noch and synod of Sutherland and Caithness ; the living
is worth £267. The old parish church, near Kildonan
station, was dedicated to that St Donnan who has been
noticed under Egg, and belonged in pre-Eeformation
days to the abbots of Scone. The present church, at
Helmsdale village, is a large and substantial edifice
of 1841. There are also Free churches of Helmsdale
and Kildonan ; and two public schools at Helmsdale,
East and West, -u-ith respective accommodation for 167
and 180 childi-en, had (1881) an average attendance of
79 and 89, and grants of £55, 5s. and £75, 13s.
Valuation (1860) £4763, (1882) £9522, plus £1709 for
24 miles of railway. Pop. (1801) 1440, (1831) 237,
(1861) 2132, (1871) 1916, (1881) 1942, of whom 1146
were Gaelic-speaking.— Ord Sur., shs. 103, 109, 1878.

Kildonan, a village in the NW of the Isle of Skye, In-
verness-shire. Its post-town is Arnisort, under Portree.
Kildonan, an estate, Avith a mansion, in Colmonell
parish, Ayrshire, | mile NW of Barrhill station. It
belongs to the Episcopal Fund Trustees.

Kildonan Castle, an old square tower at the south-
eastern extremity of Arran island, Buteshire, on a pre-
cipitous sea-clitf nearly opposite Pladden island, and
10} miles S of Lamlash. Occupying the site of a
Dalriadan fortalice, it was originally the residence of a
branch of the Clan Macdonald, but it seems to have
served mainly as one of a line of watch-towers, extending
along the coast of the Firth of Clyde. A largisli plain
lies around the clift' on which it stands, and is called
Kildonan Plain ; and here are a post office, a mansion,
and a stone circle.— Ord. Sur., sh. 13, 1870.

Kildnimmy, a hamlet and a parish of W central

Aberdeenshire. The hamlet, near the Don's left bank,

is 10 miles W by N of Alford station, and 6^ SSW of

Rliynie ; it has a branch of the Aberdeen Town and

362

KILEARNADALE AND KILCHATTAN

County Bank, and an inn, whilst near it is Mossat post
office under Aberdeen.

The parish is bounded N and NE by Auchindoir,
E by Tullynessle, SE by Leochel-Cushnie, S by Towie,
W by detached sections of Strathdon and Towie, and
NAV by Cabrach. With an irregular outline, deeply
indented by Auchindoir and Kearn, it has an ut-
most length from WNW to ESE of 7§ miles, an ut-
most breadth of 5| miles, and an area of 10,396 acres,
of which iih are water. The Don winds 1| mile north-
north-westward along the boundary with Towie, 2J
miles through the interior, and If mile along the Auchin-
doir border, which higher up is traced by the Don's
tributary, Mossat Burn ; and head-streams of the Water
of Bogie rise and run in the NW. Where the Don
quits the parish, the surface declines to 560 feet above
sea-level, thence rising southward to 747 feet at wooded
Coillebharr Hill, westward and north-westward to 1500
at Broom Hill, 2368 at the Buck of Cabeach, and
1611 at Clova Hill. Granite rocks, and rocks akin there-
to, predominate in the uplands ; whilst sandstone of very
fine quality is in the low district. The soil on the hills
affords excellent pasture ; and that in the valleys is
mostly a rich deep gravelly loam, reputed to be among
the most fertile in the county. A variety of oat, called
the Kildrummy oat, with a thin light character, and
abundance of straw, ripens about a week earlier than
other approved varieties of oat, and is very suitable to
high situations, having long been diffused and appreci-
ated through many parts of Scotland. A considerable
extent of natural birch wood overhangs a burn that
flows to the Don, and a fair amount of plantations occu-
pies other ground. Kildi'ummy Castle, IJ mile SW of
the village, crowns a rocky eminence flanked by two
ravines, and covers an area of 1 acre, with outworks
occupying fully 2 more. Surrounded by an assem-
blage of knolls whose intersecting glens and hollows are
overhung on every side by lofty uplands, it once was
a seat of the kings of Scotland, and in 1306 was be-
sieged and captured by Edward I. of England. Early
in the 14th century it passed to the Lords Erskine,
Earls of IMar ; served then as the administrative capital
of both Mar and Garioch districts ; and underwent dis-
mantlement and much damage in the times of Crom-
well's wars. A hatching-place of the rebellion of 1715,
it was forfeited by John, Earl of Mar, in the following
year, and since 1731 has belonged to the Gordons of
Wardhoxjse. The original structure consisted of one
great circular tower, said to have been built in the time
of Alexander II., and to have risen to the height of 150
feet ; later it comprised a system of seven towers, of
different form and magnitude, with intermediate build-
ings, all arranged on an irregular pentagonal outline
round an enclosed court. It retains, in the middle of
one of its sides, large portions of a chapel, with a three-
light E window, similar to that in Elgin cathedral ; and
is now an imposing ruin, one of the most interesting in
tlie North of Scotland. Other antiquities are several
' eirde-houses.' The House of Clova, 1| mile W of Lums-
den, and 6 miles SSW of Rhynie, is a large mansion,
with finely wooded grounds ; its owner, Hugh Gordon
Lumsden, Esq. (b. 1850 ; sue. 1859), holds 15,499 acres
in the shire, valued at £6687 per annum. Another
mansion is Kildrummy Cottage, Elizabethan in style ;
and, in all, 3 proprietors hold each an annual
value of more, 7 of less, than £100. Kildrummy is in
the presbytery of Alford and synod of Aberdeen ; the
living is worth £207. The church, at the village, is an
ancient edifice, containing 300 sittings ; beneath its S
aisle is a burial vault of the Mar family. Clova Roman
Catholic church of Our Lady and St Moluog, J mile
from the mansion, is a building of 1880, designed by Mr
Lumsden himself after the model of the ancient English
churches. A public school, with accommodation for 130
children, had (1881) an average attendance of 98, and
a grant of £85, 17s. Valuation (1860) £3351, (1882)
£4234, 10s. 8d. Pop. (1801) 430, (1831) 678, (1861)
590, (1871) 660, (ISSl) 656.— Ord Sur., sli. 76, 1874.
Kileamadale and Kilchattan. See Juha.

KILFINAN

Kilfinan, a village and a parish in Cowal district,
Argyllsliire. The village, standing f mile inland from
Kilfinan Bay, on the E side of Loch Fyne, and of miles
NNW of Tighnabruaich, has a post office under Greenock;
and enjoys ample communication -with the Clyde by
means of the Loch Fyne and other steamers.

The parish, containing also the village of Tighna-
EnuAiCH, is bounded N by Stralachlan, NE by Kil-
modan, E by Loch Riddon and the Kyles of Bute, S by
the convergence of the Kyles of Bute and Kilbraunan
Sound, and W and NW by Loch Fyne. Its utmost
length, from K by W to S by E, is 14| miles ; its
utmost breadth, from E to W, is 5| miles ; and its
area is 33,763 acres, of which 12S8 are foreshore and
174 water. The coast, with a total extent of 28|
miles, terminates at the southern extremity in Akd-
LAMONT Point, and elsewhere is diversified by a number
of smaller headlands and bays, including, particularly on
its W side, KiUinan, Auchalick, and Kilbride Bays. In
some parts it is steep and rocky, in others sloping or
gradually declivitous, and in others low and arable.
The interior, for the most part, is very rugged, with
numerous hills running N" and S, but it is interspersed
Avith arable vales and hollows, and the hills are not
remarkable for either height or contour. The principal
summits, from S to N, are Cnocan a' Chorra (414 feet),
Cnoc na Carraige (680), Creag Mhor (869), Beinn Capuill
(1419), Beinn Bhreac (1488), Cruach Kilfinan (1068),
Barr Ganuisg (507), Meall Reamhar (947), and Cruach
nan Gean-an (1230) ; and most of these command splendid
views of the Kyles of Bute, the lower reaches of Loch
Fyne, and the lower parts of Knapdale across to the
Hebrides. The northern division of the parish is called
Otter, from a singular sand-bank noticed separately.
The southern is kno-mi as Kerriff or Kerry, signifying
' a quarter ' or ' fourth-part ' ; and, as it is by far the
larger division, and contains the parish church, it often
gives name to the entire parish. Loch na Melldalloch
(4 X 1| furl.) and Loch Asgog (4x2 furl.) lie re-
spectively 3 and 6 miles S by E of Kilfinan viEage,
and both are well stored with trout. Mica slate is the
prevailing rock, but trap occurs in two or three places,
and limestone abounds in the ^. The soil on low level
tracts near the seals mostly of finelight sharp character,
on pretty extensive tracts further inland is mossj-, and
elsewhere is very various. Barely one-twelfth of the
entire area is in tillage, a very great extent is disposed in
pasture, and a considerable aggregate is clothed with
natural wood. Antiquities are remains of cairns, Cale-
donian stone circles, several dunes, and Lamont Castle.
At Kames is a gunpowder factory. The mansions are
Ardlamont, Ardmarnock, Ballimore, and Otter ; and 5
proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and up-
wards, 3 of between £100 and £500, 10 of from £50 to
£100, and 28 of from £20 to £50. Kilfinan is in the
presbytery of Dunoon and synod of Argyll ; the living
is worth £312. The parish church, at the village, was
almost wholly rebuilt in 1759, and, with the excep-
tion of the outside walls, was entirely renovated and re-
arranged in 1882. It contains 200" sittings, and is a
very neat and comfortable church. A quoad sacra
church is at Tighnabruaich, a mission church is at Kil-
bride, and there are also Free churches of Kilfinan and
Tighnabruaich. Five public schools — Ardlamont, Kil-
finan, Millhouse, Otter, and Tighnabruaich — with respec-
tive accommodation for 23, 80, 136, 37, and 156 children,
had (1881) an average attendance of 12, 27, 93, 12, and
107, and grants of £26, 4s., £38, Us., £54, 2s. 8d.,
£25, lis., and £89, 7s. Valuation (1860) £5150, (1883)
£15,129, lis. 4d. Pop. (1801) 1432, (1831) 2004, (1861)
1891, (1871) 2228, (1881) 2153, of whom 1377 were
Gaelic-speaking. — Ord. Sur., sh. 29, 1873.

Kilfinichen and Kilvickeon, a parish in the Mull
district of Argyllshire. Comprising the south-western
parts of Mull island, the inhabited islands of Iona,
Earraid, and Ixchkekxeth, and several neighbouring
uninhabited islets, it contains the villages of Boxess.a.n
and lona, each with a post oSice under Oban, and enjoys
communication by means of the steamers sailing from

KILFINICHEN AND KILVICKEON

Oban round Mull. It comprehends several of the
numerous parishes into which Mull was anciently
divided, and formed only a part of the one parish into
which all that district was thrown at the Reformation,
but was curtailed by the separate erection of Kilninian
and Kilmore parish in 1688, and of Torosay parish
about 1723, when it took the name of Kilfinichen and
Kilvickeon, from two churches which stood on the cen-
tral and the southern parts of the coast of its Mull main-
land section. It is naturally divided, in that section, into
the north-eastern district of Brolass, the central district
of Ardmeanach, and the south-western district of Ross ;
and, in consequence of the last of these districts being
the most prominent of the three, the entire parish is
often called Ross. It is bounded X by Kilninian and
Kilmore, E by Torosay, and on all other sides by the
Atlantic Ocean. Its utmost length, from NE to SW,
is 23 miles ; its utmost breadth, exclusive of the islands,
is 18 miles ; and its area is 62,730 acres, of which
2485f are foreshore and 302J water. The islands
and all the prominent places and objects are noticed in
separate articles ; and the coasts, the surface, and the
general features of the ilull mainland section are noticed
in the article Mull. Loch-na-Keal, containing Inch-
kenneth island, forms nearly all the boundary with
Kilninian and Kilmore ; a line of mountain watershed
forms the boundary with Torosay ; a reach of hills, of
no great height, forms the inner boundary of Brolass
district ; and Loch Scridain forms most of the boundary
between Ardmeanach and Ross districts. Bexmore
(3185 feet), the monarch mountain of Mull, lifts its
summit on the boundary -with Torosay ; Gribon pro-
montory, with lofty cliffs and receding trap terraces
that rise to an altitude of 1621 feet, forms much of the
coast and seaboard of Ardmeanach ; the Ross of Mull
projects 7 miles further "W than the most westerly point
of Gribon, and terminates within 1 mile of lona ; Arb-
Tcx headland, of gi'and basaltic character, projects from
the Ross at the mouth of Loch Scridain ; Inniemore
headland, also grandly basaltic, and forming part of a
magnificent reach of cliffs, is on the S coast of Ross
district, 16 miles E of lona ; two most imposing and
picturesque natural archways, called the Carsaig Arches,
are on the same coast further E ; and Loch Buy, over-
hung at the head by the grand isolated mountain of
Ben Buy (2352 feet), is on the sea-boundary with
Torosay. Three lakes are in Ross — the largest of them
not more than IJ mile in length and | mile in breadth.
Six rivulets are in Brolass and Ardmeanach, and,
although brief in course, acquire such volume and
velocity in times of rain as sometimes to be impassable.
Numerous other torrents run either to these rivulets or
to the ocean ; and hundreds of streamlets rush or leap
down the rocks of Burg, Gribon, Inniemore, and Carsaig.
Much of the land is barren mountain ; the greater part
is hilly, and fit at best for grazing ; a comparatively
small proportion is flat, and part of even that is moss
or heath. The soil, throughout the arable tracts, is
chiefly light and dry ; and generally produce sufficient
meal and potatoes for local consumption, sometime even
for exportation. Cattle grazing, sheep farming, and
fishing are the chief employments. Antiquities are stand-
ing stones, Scandinavian round towers, a small ruined
church on Inchkenneth, the sketches on the walls of
Unns Cave at the Ross of Mull, and the famous ruins and
monuments of lona. Mansions are Inchkenneth House,
Inniemore Lodge, Pennycross, Pennyghael, Tavool,
and Tiroran ; and the Duke of Argyll is chief i^ro-
prietor, 3 others holding each an annual value of more,
and 4 of less, than £100. Divided ecclesiastically be-
tween Kilfinichen and lona, this parish is in the pres-
bytery of Mull and synod of Argyll ; the living is worth
£252. Kilvickeon parish church stands at Bonessan
in Ross — Kilfinichen parish church on the Loch Scridain
coast of Ardmeanach, 10 miles ENE of Bonessan ; both
were built in 1804, and they contain respectively 350
and 300 sittings. Two other Established places of wor-
ship are •n-ithin the parish ; and they and the two
churches are served, in certain rotation, partly by tha

363

KILFINNAN

parisla minister and partly by a missionary. A Free
Church preaching station is in Kilfinichen, and a small
Baptist meeting-houso in Kilvickeon. Four public
schools — Bonessan, Creich, lona, and Pennyghael —
with respective accommodation lor 114, 128, 79, and 60
children, had (1881) an average attendance of 74, 76, 39,
and 19, and grants of £56, 5s., £72, 19s., £39, 3s. 6d.,
and £35, Is. Valuation (1860) £5150, (1883) £8599,
3s. 9d. Pop. of civil parish (1811) 3205, (1841) 4102,
(1861) 2518, (1871) 2448, (1881) 1982, of whom 1838
were Gaelic-speaking ; of ecclesiastical parish (1881) 1277.

Kilfinnan. See Kilfinan.

Kilgour, an ancient parish of Fife, now incorporated
Avith Falkland. Its church, 2^ miles W by N of Falk-
land town, was a building of 40 by 16 feet, with chancel ;
and its burying-ground continued to be used till the
beginning of the present centurj'. About 1825, however,
the foundations of the church were dug up and removed
to fill up drains, an ancient stone coffin was turned into
a water-trough, and the gravej'ard was ploughed over.

Kilgrammie. See Dailly.

Kilgraston, an estate, with a mansion, in Dunbarny
parish, Perthshire, 1 mile SW Bridge of Earn. Sur-
rounded b}^ a spacious wooded park, Kilgraston House,
a Grecian edifice, with a fine collection of paintings,
was destroyed by fire in April 1872 ; and, though in-
sured for £14,000, involved a loss which that sum could
not cover. The estate was purchased, shortly before
his death in 1793, by John Grant, ex-chief-justice of
Jamaica, whose grand-nephew, Charles Thomas Con-
stantine Grant, Esq. (b. 1831 ; sue. 1873), holds 2346
acres in the shire, valued at £3546 per annum. Tv?o of
the latter's uncles were Sir Francis Grant (1803-78),
president of the Royal Academy, and General Sir James
Hope Grant, G.C.B. (1808-75), of Indian and Chinese
celebrity.— Ore?. Sur., sh. 48, 1868.

Kilkadzow. See Kilcadzow.

Kilkerran, a mansion, with fine grounds, in Dailly
parish, Ayrshire, 1 mile SE of Kilkerran station on
the Maybole and Girvan section of the Glasgow and
South-Western railway, this being 4;J miles S of May-
bole. Granted to his ancestor in the early part of the
14th century, Kilkerran now belongs to the Right Hon
Sir James Fergusson, K.C.M.G., CLE., sixth Bart
since 1703 (b. 1832 ; sue. 1849), who has been Conser
vative M.P. for Ayrshire 1854-57 and 1859-68, under
secretary for India 1866-67 and for the Home Depart
ment 1867-68, and governor of South Australia 1868-72
of New Zealand 1872-74, and of Bombay since 1880
He holds 22,630 acres in the shire, valued at £13,539
per annum ; and the estate contains acid works, lime-
works, a sawmill, sandstone quarries, and remains of a
strong castle. — Ord. Sur., sh. 14, 1863.

Kilkerran. See Campbeltown.

Kilkivan, a pre-Reformation parish in Kintyre dis-
trict, Argyllshire, now forming part of the parish of
Campbeltown, and lying on the W side of Kintyre
peninsula, 4^ miles W of the town.

Kill, Ayrshire. See Coyle.

Killachonan, a village and a burn in Fortingall parish,
NW Perthshire. The village stands at the mouth of
the burn, 8 miles W of Kinloch-Rannoch ; and tlie
burn, rising on Beinn Bhoidheach at an altitude of
2300 feet above .sea-level, runs 5^ miles .south-by-west-
ward to Loch Rannoch (668 feet), at a point 2J miles E
of the loch's head. — Ord. i>ur., sh. 54, 1873.

Killallan, an ancient parish in the N centre of Ren-
frewshire, now incorporated with Llouston. The two
parishes inconveniently intersected each other, and were
united in 1760. The name Killallan is a modification
of KilfiUan ; and the churcli, St Fillan's, in a state of
ruin, stands 2 miles NW of Houston village. Near it
are a large hollowed stone and a spring of water, called
Fillan's Seat and Fillan's Well.

Killarrow, a parish in Islay district, Argyllshire,
comprising the central and northern parts of Islay
island, and comprehending the ancient parishes of Kill-
arrow and Kilincny. Often called Bowmore, it contains
the town of Buwmoue and the villages of Biudgexd
264

KILLEAN AND KILCHENZIE

and Port Askaig, all three with a post office under
Greenock. It is bounded N by the Atlantic Ocean, E
by the Sound of Islay, S by Kildalton, and W by Loch
Indal and Kilchoman. Its utmost length, from N to S,
is 13 miles ; its utmost breadth is 8^ miles ; and its
area is 65,929 acres. The coasts, the interior, and the
prominent features of the parish have all been noticed in
our article on Islay. About three-sevenths of the entire
area are regularly or occasionally in tillage ; between 1000
and 2000 acres are under wood ; and the rest is pastoral
or waste. The chief antiquities are ruins of Finlagan
Castle, Loch Guikm Castle, Claio Castle, and several
Scandinavian strongholds. Islay House, near Bridgend,
is now the property of Charles Morrison, Esq. (b. 1817),
who holds 67,000 acres in the shire, valued at £16,440
per annum. Two other proprietors hold each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 3 of between £100 and
£500, and 6 of from £20 to £50. In the presbytery of
Islay and Jura and synod of Argyll, this parish is
ecclesiastically divided into Killarrow and Kilmeny, the
former a living worth £181. The ancient parish church
stood in the SW corner, a little S of Bowmore ; the
present one, in Bowmore, was built in 1767, and, as
enlarged in 1828, contains 831 sittings. There are also
Free churches of Bowmore, Killarrow, and Kilmeny ;
and Kiels heritors' school and the public schools of
Bowmore, Kilmeny, Mulindry, and Newton of Kilmeny,
with respective accommodation for 66, 210, 107, 61, and
160 children, had (1881) an average attendance of 46,
132, 69, 19, and 103, and grants of £41, £89, Os. 8d.,
£59, 5s., £30, 2s., and £108, 12s. Valuation (I860)
£6609, 8s. 8d., (1883) £16,343, 4,s. Pop. (1801) 2781,
(1821) 5778, (1841) 7341, (1861) 3969, (1871) 3012,
(1881) 2756, of whom 2181 were Gaelic-speaking, and
1875 were in Killarrow, 881 in Kilmeny.

Killcreggan. See Kilcreggan.

Killean and Kilchenzie, a united parish on the W
coast of Kintyre peninsula, Argyllshire, containing the
hamlets or villages of Kilchenzie, 4 miles NW of Camp-
beltown, under which it has a post office ; Glenbarr, 8^
miles N by W of Kilchenzie, with a jiost office under
Tayinloan ; Killean, 5§ miles N by E of Glenbarr ;
and Tayinloan, 7 furlongs N by E of Killean, with
a post, money order, savings' bank, and telegraph
office under Greenock, an inn, and fairs on the
Friday before the last Wednesday of May and the
Wednesday after the last Thursday of July. Bounded
N by Kilcalmonell, E by Saddell and Campbeltown,
S by Campbeltown, and W by the Atlantic Ocean,
it has an utmost length from N to S of 16g miles,
a varying breadth of 2| and 6^ miles, and an area
of 42,742 acres, of which 441 are foreshore and 192
water. The coast-line, extending 18^ miles south-
by-westward from opposite Druimyeon Bay in Gigha
island to a point 1| mile W by S of Kilchenzie
hamlet, projects low Rhunahaorine Point and bolder
Glonacardoch Point (102 feet), and is slightly indented
by Beallochantuy Bay and several lesser encurvatures.
Barr Water, running 8^ miles south-westward, is the
chief of thirteen streams that flow to the Atlantic ; and
the largest of ten small lakes are Loch nan Canach
(3f X 2 furl. ; 475 feet) in the S, and Loch an Fhraoich
(4x1 furl. ; 709 feet) in the N. A narrow strip of low
alluvial land lies all along the coast, and from it the
surface rises rapidly eastward, chief elevations from N
to S being Narachan Hill (935 feet), Cnoc na Craoibhe
(1103), Cnoc Odhar Auchalu.skiu (796), Cruach Mhic-
an-t-Saoir (1195), Cruach Muasdale (655), *Beinn
Fdireac (1398), *Meall Buidhe (1228), Cnoc Buidhe
(1023), and *Ranachan Hill (706), where asterisks mark
those summits tliat culminate on the eastern confines
of the parish. The rocks are eruptive, metamorphic,
or Devonian ; and have been supposed to include car-
boniferous strata, containing coal. The soil of the
lower tracts consists mainly of disintegrations and com-
minutions of the local rocks, and on the higher
grounds is mostly moorish. Little more than a tenth
of the entire area has ever been brought under till-
age, nearly all the remainder being either pastoral or

KILLEARN

KILLIECHASSIE

waste. Antiquities, other thau those noticed imder
DuNDONALD aud Giant's Fokt, are a number of
barrows, hill forts, and standing stones. Killean
House, 1 mile S of Tayinloan, was, with exception
of a handsome new wing, entirely destroyed by
fire in 1875, but has been since restored ; its owner,
James Macalister Hall, Esq. of Tangy, holds 7450 acres
in the shire, valued at £2500 per annum. Other man-
sions are Glexbarr Abbey, Glencreggan House, and
Largie Castle ; and, in all, 7 proprietors hold each an
annual value of more, 5 of less, than £500. This parish
is in the presbytery of Kintyre and synod of Argyll ;
the living is worth £264. The parish church, on the
coast, 3 miles S by W of Tayinloan, was built in 1787.
Near it is a handsome Free church (1846), with a tower ;
and at Beallochantuy, 2| miles S by AV of Glenbarr, is
an Established mission church. Five public schools —
Beallochantuy, Glenbarr, Kilchenzie, Killean, and
Rhunahaorine, — with respective accommodation for
70, 80, 63, 72, and 84 children, had (1881) an average
attendance of 25, 29, 32, 58, and 45, and grants of
£32, 16s., £38, 5s., £54, 16s., £65, 10s., and £45, lis.
Valuation (1860) £10,558, (1883) £14,110. Pop. (1801)
2520, (1821) 3306, (1841) 2401, (1861)' 1890, (1871)
1614, (1881) 1368, of whom 901 were Gaelic-speaking.
—Orel Sur., shs. 20, 12, 1876-72.

Killeam, a village and a parish of SW Stirlingshire.
The village, standing 270 feet above sea-level, by road
is 3 miles SW of Balfron and 164 N'NW of Glasgow,
•whilst its station on the Blane Valley section of the
North British is 7| miles SSW of Bucklyvie, 9| NW
of Lennoxtown, and 21 NNW of Glasgow, under which
there are post offices of Killearn and Killearn Station.
The parish church, erected in 1880-81 at a cost of
£6000, from designs by Mr John Bryce of Edinburgh,
as a memorial to the daughter of Archibald Orr Ewing,
Esq. of Ballikinrain, M.P., is a cruciform Early English
edifice, with 600 sittings and a SE spire 100 feet high.
The Free church was built soon after the Disruption ;
and the former parish church of 1826 has been converted
into a public-hall, with reading-room and library. The
celebrated George Buchanan (1506-82) was born at the
farmhouse of Moss, If mile SSW ; and in 1788 a
■well-]3roportioned obelisk, 19 feet square at the base and
103 feet high, was erected at the village in his honour.
Pop. (1831) 388, (1861) 420, (1871) 337, (1881) 356.

The parish is bounded N by Balfron, E by Fintry, S
by Strathblane and by New and Old Kilpatrick in
Dumbartonshire, SW by Dumbarton, and W and N by
Drymen. Its utmost length, from E to W,!is 6| miles ;
its breadth varies between 2§ and 7g miles ; and its
area is 15,478 acres, of which 108 are water. Exdrick
Water meanders 10 J miles westward and southward
along the Balfron and Drymen boundaries, and towards
the close of this course forms a picturesque fall at the
Pot of Gartness ; and the Blane winds 3 miles north-
north-westward along the Strathblaneborderandthrough
the interior, till it falls into the Endrick at a point 1|
mile WSW of Killearn village, a Little above its mouth
being joined by Dualt and Carnock Burns, the former
of which makes one beautiful cascade of 60 feet. For 4
miles the parish is traversed from N to S by the Loch
Katrine Aqueduct of the Glasgow Waterworks, which
passes 3 furlongs E of the village. Perennial springs
are copious and very numerous ; at Ballewan is a
mineral spring ; and a triangular reservoir (6 x 3| furl.)
lies on the Old Kilpatrick boundary. At the Endrick's
and Blane's confluence, in the extreme W, the surface
declines to 73 feet above sea-level, thence rising south-
ward to 547 on Quiuloeh Muir and 1158 at Auchineden
Hill, and east-south-eastward to 1781 on Clacherty-
farlie Knowes and 1894 on Earl's Seat, tlie highest of
the Lennox Hills, at the meeting-point with Campsie
and Strathblane. The general landscape exhibits ex-
quisite blendings of lowland and upland, of park ami
pasture, of wood and water ; and both the valleys in
the lowlands, and the glens and ravines in the uplands,
disclose some fine close scenery. The rocks of the hills
are eruptive, those of the valleys Devonian. Sandstone

has been quarried for building in several places ; and
one spot has yielded millstones of inferior quality.
The soil of the arable lands is mainly loamy or argil-
laceous ; and 5370 acres are in tillage, 1140 are under
wood, aud the rest is either pastoral or waste. A castle
and a battlefield are noticed under Balglass and Blair-
essan. Killearn House, near the Carnock's confluence
with the Blane, If mile WSW of the village, is an
elegant edifice of 1816. Purchased by his grandfather
in 1814, the estate is the property of John Blackburn,
Esq. (b. 1843; sue. 1870), who holds 2739 acres in the
shire, valued at £2355 per annum. Other mansions
are Ballikinraix Castle, Ballikinrain House, Moss
House, Carbetii, and Boquhan ; and 2 i roprietors
hold each an annual value of more than £2000, 2 of
more than £800, and 3 of between £200 and £550.
Killearn is in the presbytery of Dumbarton and synod
of Glasgow and Ayr ; the living is worth £232. A
l^ublic school, with accommodation for 210 children,
had (1881) an average attendance of 130, and a grant
of £125, 13s. Valuation (1860) £7408, (1883) £16,013,
3s. Pop. (1801) 1039, (1841) 1224, (1861) 1171, (1871)
1111, (18S1) lUl. —Ord. Sur., shs. 30, 38, 1866-7L

Killearnadale and Kilchattan. See Jura.

Eillearnan, a parish of SE Ross-shire, whose church
stands on the northern .shore of the Beauly Firth, 3§
miles E by S of Muir of Ord station, and 6f WNW {via
Kessock Ferry) of Inverness, under which there is a
post office of Killearnan. It is bounded S by the Beauly
Firth, W by Urray, NW by Urquhart, and NE and
Eby Knockbain, a strip of which, 280 yards wide at the
narrowest, divides it into two unecjual portions, the
smaller of them to the NE. Its utmost length, from
E to AV, is 5 miles ; its breadth varies between 2|
and 4J miles ; and its area is 8019^ acres, of which
740| are foreshore and 9f water. The shore-line, 5
miles long, is low, broken by no marked bay or head-
land ; ancl the interior rises gradually to the summit of
the Millbuie, attaining 351 feet near Ploverfield, 217 at
the Free church, and 500 at the north-western boundary.
Old Red sandstone is the prevailing rock, and has long
been cjuarried ; whilst clay abounds on the shore, and
is used for mortar and for compost. The soil along the
coast is sandy or clayish, aud in the interior is so diver-
sified as on one and the same farm to comprise gravel,
light loam, red clay, and deep blue clay. Nearly one-
fourth of the entire area is pasture, and the rest is almost
equally divided between woodland and land in tillage.
General Mackenzie Eraser and General Sir George Elder
were natives. Kilcoy and Redcastle, both noticed
separately, ai'e the chief estates ; and 2 proprietors hold
each an annual value of between £2500 and £3540.
Killearnan is in the presbytery of Chanonry and synod
of Ross ; the living is wortli £250. The parish church
is a cruciform structure of the 18th century, contain-
ing 570 sittings. There is also a Free church ; and a
public school, with accommodation for 180 children, had
(1881) an average attendance of 58, and agrant of £63, 9s.
Valuation (1882) £6337, lis. lOd. Pop. (1801) 1131,
(1841) 1643, (1861) 1494, (1871) 1272, (1881) 1059, of
whom 558 were Gaelic-speaking. — Ord. Sur. ,sh. 83, 1881.

Killellan. See Killallax.

Killermont, an estate, with a mansion, in New Kil-
patrick parish, Dumbarton aud Stirling shires. The
mansion, on the right bank of the Kelvin, If mile N of
Maryhill and 4 miles NNAA^ of Glasgow, is a large and
elegant edifice, built partly about 1805, partly at earlier
periods, with extensive and very beautiful grounds. Its
owner, the Rev. John Erskine Campbell-Colquhoun of
Killermont and Garscaddex (b. 1831 ; sue. 1872),
holds 3127 acres in Dumbarton, Lanark, and Stirling
shires, valued at £8439 per annum.— OrrZ. Sicr., sh. 30,
1866.

Killeter. See Cardross.

Killiechassie, an estate, with a mansion, in a detached
section of Logierait parish, Perthshire, on the left bank
of the river Tay, 1^ mile NNE of Aberfeldy. It wa3
purchased from H. G. Gordon, Esq., in 1863, by Ed-
ward Octavius Douglas, Ean. (b. 1830), who holds 7396

365

KILLIECHONAN

acres in the shire, valued at £70-1 per annnm. — Ord.
Sur., sh. 55, 1869.

Killiechonan. See Killachonak.

Killiecrankie, Pass of, a contraction of the valiej' of
the Garry on the western verge of Moulin parish,
Perthshire, commencing near Killiecrankie or Aldgir-
naig station (3 miles ESE of Blair Athole), and descend-
ing \h mile south-by-eastward to Garry Bridge (3 miles
NNW of Pitlochry). With an elevation of between 400
and 300 feet, it is overhung on the E by Ben Veackie
(2757 feet) ; and huge Ben-y-Gloe (3671) rises con-
spicuouslj^ 8 miles NNE. Along its eastern slope, some
way above the bed of the turbulent Garry, the smooth
Great Highland Road, constructed by General Wade in
1732, ascends gently from the low country to the head
of the defile ; and between road and river the High-
land Railway (1863) goes, clinging to the rock, in
easy gi'adients, with only a few yards of tunnel. ' Wliite
villas, ' says Lord JNIacaulay, ' peep from the birch forest ;
and on a fine summer's day there is scarcely a turn of
the Pass at which may not be seen some angler casting
his fly on the foam of the river, some artist sketching a
pinnacle of rock, or some party of pleasure banqueting
on the turf in the fretwork of shade and sunshine. But
in the days of William III., Killiecrankie was men-
tioned with horror by the peaceful and industrious in-
habitants of the Perthshire lowlands. It was deemed
the most perilous of all those dark ravines through
which the marauders of the hills were wont to sally
forth. The sound, so musical to modern ears, of the
river brawling round the mossy rocks and among the
smooth pebbles, the dark masses of crag and verdure
worthy of the pencil of Wilson, the fantastic peaks
bathed, at sunrise and sunset, with light rich as that
which glows on the canvas of Claude, suggested to our
ancestors thoughts of murderous ambuscades and of
bodies stripped, gashed, and abandoned to the birds of
prey. The onlj' path was narrow and rugged ; a horse
could with difficulty be led up ; two men could hardly
walk abreast ; and, in some places, a traveller had great
need of a steady eye and foot.' At the head of the Pass,
near Killiecrankie station, on a diluvial plain of small
extent, but level as a Dutch ^^older, was fought the cele-
brated battle of Killiecrankie, 27 July 1689. General
Maekay, the leader of King William's forces, marched
through the Pass on the morning of that day, at the
head of 3000 infantry and nearly 1000 horse, and drew
them up upon this level haugh. Early the same morn-
ing, Graham of Claverhouse, Viscount Dundee, had
arrived at Blair Castle (the object of contention), with
one little troop of cavalry and 2500 foot, including ' 300
new-raised, naked, undisciplined Irishmen.' Instead of
descending right down to meet the foe, he went up
Glentilt, fetched a compass round the Hill of Lude, and
made his appearance in battle order on the hill-side
about the position of Urrard House. Maekay immedi-
ately pushed forward his main body to a terrace midway
between his antagonist and the haugh, forming them
there in battle-line three deep, with his cavalry in the
rear., and leaving his baggage in the Pass. 'Phe two
armies observed each other in silence till past 7, when,
the midsummer sun having touched the western heights,
Dundee's army broke simultaneously into motion, and
came on at a slow trot down the hill. The Highlanders,
who had dropped their i)laids and s]nirned away their
socks of untanned hide, and who resembled a body of
wild savages more than a race of civilised men, advanced,
according to their usual practice, with their bodies bent
forward, so as to present the smallest possible surface to
the fire of the enemy, the upper part of their bodies
being covered by their targets. To discourage tlie
Highlanders in their advance by keeping up a continual
fire, Maekay had given instructions to his officers to
commence firing by platoons, at the distance of a
hundred paces ; but this order was not attended to.
The Highlanders having come close up, halted for a
moment ; then, having levelled and discharged their
pistols, which did little execution, they set up a fearful
yell, and rushed on the enemy sword in hand, before
3G6

KILLIECRANKIE, PASS OF

they had time to screw their bayonets on to the end of
their muskets. In two minutes the battle was lost and
won. The shock was too impetuous to be long resisted
by men who, according to their own general, ' behaved,
with the exception of Hasting's and Leven's regiments,
like the vilest cowards in nature.' But even had these
men been brave, their courage would scarce have availed
them, as their arms were insufficient to parry off the
ti'emendous strokes of the axes and the broad and
double-edged swords of the Highlanders, who, with a
single blow, either felled their opponents to the earth
or struck off a limb from their bodies. At the same
time with this overthrow of Mackay's infantry, and
immediately under his own eye, there occurred a crash
on his artillery and cavalry. At this critical moment
jMackay, who was instantly surrounded by a crowd of
Highlanders, anxious to disentangle his cavalry, so as
to enable him to get them forward, called aloud to them
to follow him, and, putting spurs to his horse, galloped
through the enemy ; but, with the exception of one
servant, whose horse was shot under him, not a single
horseman attempted to follow. When he had gone
far enough to be out of the reach of immediate danger,
he turned round to observe the state of matters ; and to
his infinite surprise he found that both armies had dis-
appeared. To use his own expression, ' in the twinkling
of an eye, in a manner, our men, as well as the enemy,
were out of sight, being got down pell-mell to the river,
where our baggage stood. ' ' All was over ; and the
mingled torrent of red-coats and tartans went raving
down the valley to the gorge of Killiecrankie.' As
Aytoun makes the victors say —

' Like a tempest down the r)dg:es

Swept the hurricane of steel,
Rose the slojjan of Macdonald,

Flash'd tlie broadsword of Lochiel !
Vainly sped tlie witiiering volley

'Mongst the foremost of our band ;
On we poured until we met them,

Foot to foot, and hand to hand.
Horse and man went down like driftwood.

When the floods are black at Yule ;
And their carcasses are whirling

In the Garry's deepest pool.
Horse and man went down before us ;

Living foe there tarried none
On the field of Killiecrankie

When that stubborn fight was done.'

Maekay, with the remnants of Leven's and Hasting's
regiments, hastened across the Gany, and, collecting as
many fugitives as he could, led them precipitately over
the hills, and succeeded, after a perilous retreat, in
conducting about 400 to Stirling. But had not his
baggage at the foot of the battle-field arrested the at-
tention of most of the victors, had not the ground over
which he retreated been impracticable for pursuing
horsemen, he might have been able to bring away scarce
one man. If the importance of a victory is to be
reckoned by the comparative numbers of the slain, and
the brilliant achievements of the victoi's, the battle of
Killiecrankie may well stand high in the list of military
exploits. Considering the shortness of the combat, the
loss on the side of Maekay was prodigious. No fewer
than 2000 of his men were slain or captured, whilst
Dundee's own loss was only 900. But as the import-
ance of a victory, however splendid in itself, however
distinguished by acts of individual prowess, can be ap-
preciated only by its results, the battle of Killiecrankie,
instead of forwarding King James's cause, was, by the
death of Dundee, the precursor of that cause's ruin. ' At
the beginning of the action he had taken his place in
front of his little band of cavalry. He bade them follow
him, and rode forward. But it seemed to be decreed
that, on that day, the Lowland Scotch should in both
armies appear to disadvantage. The horse hesitated.
Dundee turned round, stood up in his stirrujjs, and,
waving his hat, invited them to come on. As he lifted
his arm, his cuirass rose, and exposed the lower part of
his left side. A musket ball struck him ; his horse
sprang forward, and plunged into a cloud of smoke and
dust, which hid from both armies the fall of the vie-

KILLIN

torious general. A person named Johnson was near
him, anil caught him as he sank clown from the saddle.
" How goes the day ? " said Dundee. " AVell for King
James," answered Johnson ; " but I am sorry for your
Lordship. " " If it is well for him," ansv.-cred the dying
man, "it matters the less for me." He never spoke
again ; but when, half an hour later, Lord Dunfermline
and some other friends came to the spot, they thought they
could still discern some faint remains of life.' Wrapped
in two plaids, his naked corpse was carried to Blair
Castle ; and in the Old Church of Blair, overshadowed
by trees, they buried him.* — Orel. Sur., sh. 55, 1869.
See DuxKELD ; pp. 197, 207, of Dorothy Wordsworth's
Tour in Scotland (1874) ; pp. 32, 35, 40, 167, of the
Queen's Journal (ed. 1877) ; chap. xiii. of Macaiilay's
History of England (1855) ; Mark Napier's Life and.
Times of ClaverJwuse (3 vols. 1859-62) ; vol. i., pp.
365-378, of John S. Keltie's Scottish Highlands (1875);
andvok vii., pp. 371-385, ofDr Hill Burton's ZTistor?/ of
Scotland (ed. 1876).

Killin, a village and a parish in Breadalbane district,
W Perthshire. The village stands on the peninsula
between the confluent Dochart and Lochy, f mile AVSW
of the head of Loch Tay, 23 miles WSW of Aberfeldy,
and 4 NNE of Killin station on the Callander and Oban
railway, this being 53g miles W of Oban, 17 NNW of
Callander, 33 NW by N of Stirling, and 70^ NW of
Edinbiirgh. Both far and near it is girt by magnificent
scenery, and, though a small and straggling place, it
possesses no little importance at once as a centre for
tourists and as a seat of local and provincial trade.
The rivers, flowing among rich green fields ; the head-
long advance of the Dochart over big black rocks ; the
silent gliding of the gentler Lochy ; the slopes of sur-
rounding hills, fringed here and there with wood ; Gleu-
dochart and Glenlochy, striking south-westward and
west - north - westward in diversified grandeur ; the
monarch mountain of Ben Lawers (4004 feet), 7 miles
to the NE, appearing there to fill half the horizon ; and
the long expanse of Loch Tay (14J miles x 9J furl. ; 355
feet), extending past that mountain, with its gorgeous
flanks of woods and hills, — all these combine to beautify
the landscape. 'Killin,' wrote Dr M'CuUoch, 'is the
most extraordinary collection of extraordinary scenery
in Scotland — unlike everything else in the country, and
perhaps on earth, and a perfect picture gallery in itself,
since you cannot move three yards without meeting a
new landscape. . . . Fir trees, rocks, torrents, mills,
bridges, houses— these produce the great bulk of the
middle landscape, under endless combinations ; while
the distances more constantly are found in the sur-
rounding hills, in their varied woods, in the bright
expanse of the lake, and the minute ornaments of the
distant valley, in the rocks and bold summit of Ceaig-
CHAILLIACH, and in the lofty vision of Ben Lawers,
which towers like a huge giant in the clouds, the
monarch of the scene.' A bridge of five unequal arches,
across the Dochart, commands one of the best combina-
tions of the views ; and a grassy islet, studded with
tall pines, immediately below that bridge, contains the

* 'In Athole there has long been a tradition tliat, after his
death in the inn at Blair, his body was deposited in the Old
Church, now the burial place of the Dukes of Atholo. In 1794
the back part of a steel cap or morion, such as was worn by
officers in 1GS9, was recovered by General Robertson of Lude,
which, with other portions of rusty armour found in the possession
of some cairds or tinkers, was suspected to liave been abstracted
from the grave of Dundee ; and on investigation such was found
to be the case. The fragment is now in possession of J. P.
M'Inroy, Esq. of Lude, whilst Dundee's corselet is preserved in
the Castle of Blair. When, on the death of the sixth Duke in
1866, it was resolved to resume the use of the vault in the Old
Church of Blair, which had ceased to be employed as the burial
place of the Athole family for about a century, the unpaved soil
was carefully turned over ; and 27 skulls were discovered, but
none that could be identified as that of Claverhouse ' (epitome of
an interesting article by Dr Arthur Anderson, C.B., in Notes and
Queries, 15 May 1875). Four queries suggest themselves — (1) as
to how Dundee's corpse cam6 to be 'naked;' (2) as to his 'death
in the inn at Blair;' (3) as to this fragment of a 'morion' and
the 'hat' of Macaulay and Hill Burton ; and (4) as to the latter's
concluding touch of the ' restless and ambitious heart which has
slept in this quiet spot amidst peasant dust.'

KILLIN

burial-place of the Macnabs, once the potent chieftains
of the surrounding country ; whilst a neighbouring
stone, about 2 feet high, is fabled to mark the grave of
Fingal, which by some is supposed to have given the
parish its name (Gael. cill-Fhinn, ' Fingal's burial-
place '). Killin has a post office under Stirling, with
money order, savings' bank, and telegraph departments,
branches of the Bank of Scotland and the Union Bank,
2 hotels, a public library, a water supply (1874), 'bus
communication with the station, steamboat and coach
communication with Kenmore and Aberfeldy, a sawmill,
a tweed manufactory, and fairs on the first Tuesday
after 11 Jan., 5 May (or the Tuesday after, if that day
fall on Saturday, Sunday, or ilonday), 12 Oct., the
Friday before Donne Nov. market, and the first Tuesday
after 11 Nov. The parish church, built in 1744, con-
tains 905 sittings, other places of worship being a Free
church and an iron Episcopal churcli, St Peter's (1876).
Wordsworth and his sister Dorothy breakfasted at
Killin on 5 Sept. 1804; and on 10 Sept. 1842 the
Queen and Prince Albert were rowed from Taymouth
Castle to Achmore, thence driving through Killin,
Glenogle, and Upper Strathearn to Drummond Castle.
At Killin, too, died the antiquary, Cosmo Innes (1798-
1874). Pop. (1871) 513, (1881) 473.

The parish, containing also the stations of Lttib,
Criaxlarich, and Tyxdrum, 5f, 12, and 17^ miles W
of Killin station, comprises a main body and two
detached sections. The area of the whole is 153§ square
miles or 98,350| acres, of which 1424| are water, and
8315§ belong to the detached sections, so that, with
the exception of Fortingall and Blair Athole, it is the
largest of all the large Perthshire parishes. The main
body is bounded W by Kilmorich and Glenorchy in
Argyllshire, N and E by detached portions of Kenmore
and Weem, SE by Comrie, S by Balquhidder, and SW
by Arrochar in Dumbartonshire. Its utmost length,
from E by N to W by S, is 22| miles ; its width varies
between 2| and 11 miles ; and its area is 90,034f acres.
The Fillan, rising at an altitude of 2980 feet, on the
northern side of Benloy, close to the Argyllshire
border, winds 11;^ miles east-north-eastward and east-
south-eastward along a glen called after it Strathfillan,
till it falls into the liead of Loch Docliart (6 x IJ furl. ;
512 feet) ; and the Dochart, issuing thence, flows 13;|
miles east-north-eastward to the head of Loch Tay (290
feet), in the first J mile of its course expanding into
Loch Tubhair (IJ mile x 2 J furl.), and 4 mile above its
mouth being joined by the Lochy, which over the last
4 miles of its meanderings either bounds or traverses
Killin parish. Partly, however, the drainage belongs
to the basin of the Clyde, since the Falloch, rising on
Ben-a-Chroin, close to the Balquhidder boundary,
runs 8| miles north-by-westward, south-westward, and
southward, till at Inverarnan it passes off" into Diimbar-
tonshire on its way to Loch Lomond. Of nineteen
smaller lakes, scattered over the interior, the largest
are Lochan Lairig Eala (3J x IJ furl. ; 950 feet) near
Killin station, and Loch Essan (3§ x 1^ furl. ; 1730 feet),
2^ miles NNE of Crianlarich station. The surface
everywhere is grandly mountainous, chief elevations,
from E to W, to the left or N of the Dochart and the
Fillan being *Craigchailliach (2990 feet), *Mid Hill
(1977), *Ben Dheiceach (3074), Creag Liuragan (1817),
*Ben Chaluim (3354), *Ben Odhar (2948), and *Benloy
(3708) ; to the right or S, Ben Leathan (2312), Creag
Ghlas (1946), conical Benmore (3843), *Am Binnein
(3827), Grey Height (2139), *Ben-a-Chroin (3101),
Troisgeach (2395), and Ben Dubh-chraige (3204), where
asterisks mark those summits that culminate on the
confines of the parish. Of the two detached sections,
the eastern and larger, extending 3 miles along the SE
shore of Loch Tay, and from If to 3i miles inland,
contains the village of Akdeonaig, 7^ miles ENE of
Killin village. It is drained by nine rivulets to Loch
Tay, from whose shore the surface rises south-eastward
to *Meall na Creige (2683 feet), *Creag Uigeach (2840),
and *P>uadh Bheul (2237). The smaller Botaurnie sec-
tion, 13 mile square, lies on the left bank of the Lochy,

367

KILLIN

7 miles "WNW of Killin village, rises northward from
590 feet to 2580 at *Meall Taurine, and is bounded N
by Fortingall, on all other sides by fragments of Kenmore
and Weem.

Such is a bare outline of the general features of this
great Highland parish, whose beauties, antiquities, and
history are noticed more fully under Daluigh, Dochart,
FiLLAN, FiNLARiG, Glenfalloch, Glenlochy, and
other articles above referred to. ilica slate is the pre-
dominant rock, though this parish also abounds in
talcose, chloritic, and hornblende rocks, and in greyish
highly crystalline limestone. Lead ore has been worked
at Clifton, near Tyndrum ; cobalt is found in an ore,
which yields also 60 oz. of silver per ton ; a rich vein
of sulphurate of iron occurs in Craigchailliach ; and
specimens of rock crystal, amethystine quartz, smoke
quartz, and some other rare minerals are found. The
soil of the tracts incumbent upon limestone is generally
light and dry, but in the bottoms of Glenlochy, Glen-
dochart, and Strathfillan is wet and marshy. Less than
one thirty-iifth of the entire area is in tillage ; 1100
acres are under wood, and all the rest of the land is
either pastoral or waste. Mansions are Auchlyne
House, Lochdochart Lodge, and Glenfalloch House ;
and the Earl of Breadalbane is ranch the largest pro-
prietor, 2 others holding an annual value of £500 and
upwards, 2 of between £100 and £500, and 4 of from
£20 to £50. Killin is in the presbytery of Weem and
synod of Perth and Stirling ; the living is worth £365.
There are Free churches of Ardeonaig and Strathfillan ;
a«d five public schools — Ardeonaig, Crianlarich, Glen-
dochart, Killin, and Strathfillan — with respective accom-
modation for 56, 52, 43, 127, and 50 children, had (1881)
an average attendance of 22, 14, IS, 75, and 21, and
grants of £40, 2s., £26, 13s., £31, Is., £68, 16s., and
£37, 6s. 6d. Valuation (1866) £11,502, (1883) £12,215,
15s. 5d. Pop. (ISOl) 2048, (1831) 2002, (1861) 1520,
(1871) 1856, many of them navvies; (1881) 1277, of
whom 1003 were Gaelic-speaking. — Ord. Sui:, shs. 46,
47, 1872-69.

Killin, Culen, or Loch a Chuilinn, an expansion of
the river Bran, in a detached portion of Fodderty parish,
central Pioss-shire, IJ mile E of Auchanault station.
Lying 360 feet above sea-level, it has an utmost length
and breadth of Ij mile and 1| furlong, contains trout
and pike, and is largely invaded by moss. — Ord. Sur.,
shs. 82, 83, 1882-81.

Killisport, Loch. See Gaolisport.

Killochan Castle, a 16th century mansion, near the
SW border of Dailly jiarish, Ayrshire, and the right
bank of the Water of Girvan, 3 furlongs ESE of Kil-
lochan station on the Maybole and Girvan section of
the Glasgow and South-Western railway, this being 2|
miles NE of Girvan. It is the Scottish seat of Sir P»eginald-
Archibald-Edward Cathcart, sixth Bart, since 1703 (b.
1838; sue. 1878), who holds 13,118 acres in the shire,
valued at £6386 per annum, and Avho in 1880 marriecl
the i)roprietress of Cluny Castle iu Aberdeenshire. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 8, 1863.

Killock Bum. See Glexkillock.

Killoe Water. See Kello.

Killoran or Colonsay House. See Colox.'iat.

Killundine, an old castle in Morvern jiarish, Argyll-
shire, on the NE shore of the Sound of JIuU, 3^ miles
NNE of Aros Castle. Used as a Imntinglodge by the
feudal occupants of Aros Castle, it still is sometimes
called Caisteal- nan -Coin, signifying ' tlie Castle of
Dogs.' Col. Charles Cheape of Killundine (b. 1806)
holds 4553 acres in the sliire, valued at £614 per
annum.

Killyhounan. See Killaciioxan.

Killywhan, a station at the NE border of Kirkgunzeon
parish, Kirkcudbrightshire, on the Dumfries and Castle-
Douglas section of the Glasgow and South-Western rail-
way, ^\ miles SW of Dumfries.

kilmacolm. See Kilmalcolm.

Kilmadan. See Kilmodax.

Kilmadock, a ]iarish of S Perthshire, containing the
post-town and station of DouxE, with the villages of
368

KILMAHEW

Buchanj', Deanston, and Drumvaich. It is bounded
N by a detached section of Monzievaird and Strowan,
E by Dunblane, SE b)' Lecropt and Kincardine, S
by Gargunnock and Kippen in Stirlingshire, SW
by Kincardine (detached) and Port of Monteith, and
W and NW by Callander. Its utmost length, from
N by E to S by W, is 10| miles; its breadth
varies between 1| and 8 miles ; and its area is 24,783
acres, of which 262^ are water. The Forth, in
serpentine folds, flows 6;^ miles eastward along all
the Stirlingshire border ; Goodie Water, its affluent,
runs 4^ miles east-south-eastward across the southern
interior. The arrowy Teith flows 85 miles east-south-
eastward, partly along the Callander and Kincardine
boundaries, but chiefly across the middle of the parish ;
Keltie AVater runs 2| miles southward to it along the
western border ; and Ardoch Burn, issuing from Loch
Mahaick or Maghaig (f x ^ mile ; 750 feet), runs 1| mile
eastward, and, after a detour into Dunblane, 2^ miles
west-by-southward, till it falls near Doune town into the
Teith, another of whose tributaries, Axxet Burn, has a
southerly course of 6^ miles, and forms a number of
pretty waterfalls. The Teith itself, with the frequent
rapids of its rocky channel, the configuration and em-
bellishment of its banks, and its artificial cascades in
connection with Deanston Works, exhibits a wealth of
loveliness. Springs are numerous and good ; and one
in the side of Uamh Mhor, on the northern border,
leaps out from the solid rock like a jet or spout. Along
the Forth the surface declines to 40, along the Teith to
46, feet above sea-level ; and the highest point in Kil-
madock between the two rivers is the Brae of Boquhapple
(422 feet), near the western border. The northern dis-
trict is far more hilly, its heathery Braes of Doune
rising up and up till they attain 500 feet at Ig mile
from the Teith, 1000 at 34 miles, and 2179 at Uamh
Bheag on the northern boundary, whose neighbour
Uamh Mhor or 'Uamvar' (Gaeh 'great cave') com-
mands a magnificent view, and is pierced on the Kil-
madock side with a large rocky cavern, the haunt of
robbers down to the middle of last century. Eruptive
rocks predominate in the hills, Devonian rocks in the
valleys ; and the soil is extremely various, ranging from
rich alluvium to barren moor. The low tracts are
nearly all in high cultivation, and the uplands are
mostly pastoral or waste. The parish has been ren-
dered famous in the annals of agriculture through
James Smith of Deanston (1789-1850), who here in
1823 introduced his system of thorough draining and
deep ploughing. Under Doune are noticed the chief
autic|uities, its castle and the Bridge of Teith. Man-
sions are Lanrick Castle, Doune Lodge, Cambusmore,
Inverardoch, Deanston House, Argaty, Coldoch, and Gar-
tincaber, of which the four first have separate articles.
The last, Gartincaber, 2| miles E of Thornhill, is partly
modern, the seat of John Burn-Murdoch, Esq. (b. 1821;
sue. 1871), who owns 1540 acres in the shire, valued at
£1791 per annum. The Earl of Moray and 11 lesser pro-
prietors hold each an annual value of £500 and upwards, 4
of between £100 and £500, 3 of from £50 to £100, and 35
of from £20 to £50. Giving ofl' since 1877 a portion to
Norriston quoad sacra parish, Kilmadock is in the pres-
bytery of Dunblane and synod of Perth and Stirling ;
the living is worth £391. The ancient parish church,
St Modoc's, stood till 1744 at the old hamlet of Kil-
madock ; and, whilst itself belonging to Inchmahome
Priory, had six dependent chapels. The present parish
church and lour other places of worship are noticed
under DouxE. Three public schools — Kilmadock,
Deanston, and Drumvaich — with respective accom-
modation for 361, 216, and 40 children, had (1882)
an average attendance of 165, 137, and 30, and grants
of £161, 10s., £132, 10s., and £35, Is. Valuation

(1860) £21,009, 9s. 3d., (1883) £23,194, lis. 3d., phis
£3750 for railway. Pop. (ISOl) 3044, (1841) 4055,

(1861) 3312, (1871) 3170, (1881) 3012, of whom 2742 were
in the ecclesiastical parish. — Ord. Sur., sh. 39, 1869.

Kilmahew, a fine modern Scottish Baronial mansion
iu Cardross parish, Dumbartonsliire, 1 mile N by E of

EILMAHOG

Cavdross station. It belongs to the same proprietor as
CuMBEKN'AULD House, James Burns, Esq., in 1859
having bought the estate, which had been hekl by the
Napiers from the close of the 13th till the early part of
the 19th century. Near the modern mansion, over-
looking the Glen of Kilraahew, stands their ruined
castle, with this legend over its doorway — -'The blessing
of God be herein.'— Orf^. Sur., sli. 30, 1866.

Kilmahog, a village in Callander parish, Perthshire,
on the northern head-stream of the river Teith, | mile
SE of the Pass of Leny and 1 AV by N of Callander
town. It once had a chapel, dedicated to St Chug ;
and it retains the chapel's cemetery.

Kilmalcolm, a village and a parish in the Lower
Ward of Renfrewshire. Tlie village stands, 350 feet
above sea-level, near the E border of tlie parish ; and
has a station on the Greenock and Ayrshire branch of
the Glasgow and South-Western railway, 4 miles SE of
Port Glasgow, 7i ESE of Greenock, and 15 WNW of
Glasgow. It took its name from the dedication of
its ancient church to St Columba ; and till lately it
mainly consisted of old thatched houses, presenting a
singularly antique and sequestered aspect. Its sheltered
situation and the salubrity of its climate have led to a
great extension during the last decade ; and now it has a
post office under Paisley, with money order, savings' bank,
and telegraph departments, a branch of the Royal Bank,
5 insurance agencies, a good hotel, a large hydropathic
establishment (1880), gasworks, and water- works, formed
in 1878 at a cost of nearly £5000, with a reservoir hold-
ing 1,500,000 gallons, and fed from Blacketty Burn.
The parish church is a handsome edifice of 1833, with
a tower and 700 sittings ; it adjoins the aisle of a
previous church, containing the tomb of the Earls of
Glencairn. A Free church was opened in 1881, and a
U.P. church in 1861. Pop. (1871) 395, (1881) 1170.

The parish is bounded N by Port Glasgow and the
Firth of Clyde, E by Erskine and Houston, SE by Kil-
barchan, S by Lochwinnoch, S\V by Largs in Ayrshire,
and W by Innerkip and Greenock. Its utmost length,
from NE to SW, is 6i miles ; its breadth, from E to W,
varies between 2 and 7f miles ; and its area is 20, 405 J
acres, of which 263^ are foreshore and 477;| water. The
coast-line, 2J miles in extent, is fringed by the low plat-
form of the Firth's ancient sea-margin, and backed bj^
pleasant braes 300 to 648 feet high. Giiyfe Water, issuing
from Gryfe Reservoir on the Greenock border, flows south-
eastward right across the parish ; and by it, Green AVater,
and its other affluents, the interior has been so channelled
as to ofier a charming variety of gentle hill and vale, with
loftier moss and moorland to the W and S. Sinking
along the Gryfe in the extreme E to 180 feet above sea-
level, the surface thence rises to 570 feet at Craiglun-
scheoch, 853 at Hardridge Hill, and 1446 at Creuch
Hill. The predominant rocks are eruptive ; and the
soil on the low grounds is mostly light and gi-avelly,
on the higher is moorish or mossy. Nearly four-ninths
of the entire area are in tillage ; plantations cover some
125 acres ; and the rest of the land is either pastoral
or waste. Mansions, noticed sejjarately, are Duchall,
Finlaystone, Carruth, and Broadfield ; and 10 proprietors
hold each an annual value of £500 and upwards. 34 of
between £100 and £500, 65 of from £50 to £100, and
40 of from £20 to £50. Kilmalcolm is in the presbytery
of Greenock and synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; the living
is worth £465. Kilmalcolm public and West Syde
public schools, with respective accommodation for 350
and 80 children, had (1882) an average attendance of
202 and 33, and grants of £173 and £35, 7s. Valuation
(1860) £11,331, (1883) £35,246. Pop. (1801) 1100,
(1831) 1613, (1861) 1455, (1871) 1716, (1881) 2708.
—Orel. Sur., sh. 30, 1866.

Kilmallie, a Lochaber parish of Inverness and Argyll
shires, the largest parish in Scotland. It contains
the burgh of Fort William, and the hamlets of North
Ballachulish and Oxich in its Inverness-ahire, of
Ardgour, Banavie, Blaicu, Clovulin, Corpach,
DuiSKY, and Garvax in its Argyllshire, section.
Bounded W by Ardnamurchan and Glenelg, N and

KILMALLIE

E by Kilmonivaig, S by Lismore and Appin, and SW by
]\Iorvern, it has an extreme length from N by E to S
by W of 29^ miles, a varying width of 21 and 30^
miles, and an area of 444 square miles or 284, 060 J
acres, of which 177,910^ belong to Inverness-shire and
106,150 to Argyllshire, whilst 1782| are foreshore and
8403:^ water. The northern boundary is partly defined
by the last If mile of Gairowan river, flowing to Loch
Quoich ; by Loch QuoiCH itself (5i miles x f mile ; 555
feet) ; and by the first 3^ miles of its effluent, the Garry,
on to the influx of the Kingie. The eastern, again, is
partly defined by the lower 6 miles of Loch Lochy
(91 miles x 1 to 9| furl. ; 93 feet), and by its effluent,
the river Lochy, winding 9f miles south-south-westward
to the head of Loch Linnhe at Fort William ; whilst all
the southern boundary is traced by the Black Water or
river Leven, flowing 13| miles westward, through a
chain of four small lakes, to the head of salt-water Loch
Levex, and next by Loch Leven itself (11§ miles x §
furl, to 2^ miles). To the Inverness-shire interior be-
longs fresh-water Loch Archaig (12 miles xf mile;
140 feet), sending oflT the Archaig river 1§ mile east-
south-eastward to Loch Lochy ; to the Argyllshire in-
terior belongs salt-water Loch Eil (6§ miles x 7 J furl),
communicating by the Narrows, 2 miles long and 1
furlong broad at the narrowest, with the head of Loch
Linnhe. Loch Lixnhe itself, with a varying width of
5 furlongs and IJ mile, strikes 91 miles south-westward
to CoRRAN Narrows (IJ furl, wide); and thus far, often
called Lower Loch Eil, it divides the Inverness-shire
from the Argyllshire section of Kilmallie, the latter
still fringing its western shore for 71 miles below
Corran Ferry. The surface everywhere is grandly
mountainous, chief elevations to the N of Loch Archaig
being Meall Odhar (2971 feet), Scour Gairoch (3015),
and Sgor Mor (3290) ; between Lochs Archaig and Eil,
Beinn Bhan (2613), Meall Bhanabhie (1071), Druim
Fada (2420), Gulvein (3224), and *Sgor Choileam
(3164) ; to the S of Loch Eil, Stob Choire a' Chearcaill
(2527), Sgur na h-Eanchainne (2397), and *Sgur
Dhomnuil, where asterisks mark those summits that
culminate on the confines of the parish. To the E of
Loch Linnhe rise huge *Bex Nevis (4406), *Aonach
Beag (4060), Binnein Mor (3700), Am Bodach (3382),
Sgor a' Mhaim (3601), Stob Ban (3274), Mullach nan
Coirean (3077), and Beinn na Cucaig (2017), Such is a
bare outline of the general features of this vast Highland
parish, which is larger than Edinburghshire and eleven
others of the thirty-three Scottish counties. Fuller
details are furnished under Achnacarry, Ardgour,
Caledoxian Caxal, Coxa, Fassifern, Glenxevis,
and other articles already alluded to. Gneiss and ndca
slate are the predominant rocks ; but granite, syenite,
porphyry, quartz, hornblende, and limestone are also
conmion. Silurian rocks, too, occur. Fine-hued marble
and roofing-slates have been quarried, the latter round
North Ballachulish, where there are mountains of it ;
and several veins of lead ore, with a comparatively large
proportion of zinc and silver, are known to exist. The
soil, along parts of the margins 'of the lochs and of the
bottoms of the glens, is mostly light, shallow, and sandy
or mossy ; and on the braes and. mountains is mostly
moorish. Not 1 acre in 300 is cultivated or capable of cul-
tivation ; but woods and plantations must cover a very
large aggregate area, the old Loch Archaig native pine
forest being from 8 to 9 miles in length. Four landed
proprietors hold each an annual value of £2000 and
upwards, 1 feuar holding between £100 and £500, 8
from £50 to £100, and 23 from £20 to £50. Giving off
the quoad sacra parishes of Duxcaxsburgh and Bal-
lachulish AND Ardgour, Kilmallie is in the presby-
tery of Abertarff and synod of Argyll ; the living is
worth £342. The parish church of Kilmallie was
built in 1783, and contains 600 sittings. Its ancient
predecessor was dedicated to some Celtic saint, whose
name is not preserved in any calendar ; for the render-
ing of Kilmallie by ' church of Mary ' is wholly inad-
missible. There is a Free church at Corpach ; and other
places of worship are noticed under Fort William and

369

KILMALUAG

KILMARNOCK

Ballachtilish. Nine public schools — Ardgour, Banavie,
Barmacfoldach, Fort William, Garvan, Kinlocheil, Ach-
nacarry, Trieslaig, aud Onich — North Ballachulish Epis-
copal, and Fort William Roman Catholic school, with total
accommodation for 681 children, had (ISSl) an average
attendance of 348, and grants amounting to £314, lis.
Valuation (1860) £10,531, (1882) £24,040, of which
£6887 was for the Argyllshire portion. Pop. (1801)
4520, (1831) 5566, (1861) 4272, (1871) 4066, (1881)
4157, of whom 3393 were Gaelic-speaking, 2716 were in
Inverness-shire, and 1417 belonged to Kilmallie ecclesias-
tical parish.— Orf?. Sur., shs. 5^3, 62, 54, 1873-77.

Kihnaluag, an ancient parish in ArgyDshire, nearly
or quite identical with the present parish of Lismore
and Appin. It was named from a St Malocus, said by
some to have lived in the 7th century, by others more
probably about the year 1160 ; and it contains, near
Portmaluag, some traces of what are alleged to have
been its original church.

Kilmanivaig. See Kilmonivaig.

Kilmany, a village and a parish of N Fife. The
village stands 2^ miles S of the Firth of Tay and 5J N
by E of Cupar, under which it has a post office.

The parish, containing also Eathillet village, is bounded
N by Balmerino and Forgan, SE by Logic, S by Dairsie
and Cupar, SW by Monzie, and AV by Creich. Its
utmost length, from ENE to WSW, is 5g miles ; its
breadth varies between 3J furlongs and 3§ miles ; and
its area is 5343 acres. The outline, narrow in the NE
and broad in the SW", rudely resembles that of a long-
necbed globular bottle. The drainage is carried east-
ward by Motray Water to the Eden ; and the surface
sinking in the extreme KE to less than 100 feet above
sea-level, thence rises westward and south-westward to
439 feet at Long Hill, 348 at Round Hill, 404 at North
Hill, 493 at Dacklaw Hill, 563 at Myrecaimie Hill,
514 at Murdochcairnie Hill, 538 at Starlaw, and 622
near Lems Wood. The upper part of Motray vale
appears to have been successively a lake and a marsh,
and was not entirely drained and converted into prime
arable land till the latter part of last century. Goales
Den, traversed by a runnel southward to Motray Water,
is a deep cut near Kilmany village, apparently formed,
first by trap rock disruption, and next by the action of
running water. It was tastefully planted and inter-
sected with walks about the year 1825 ; and presents,
on a small scale, a charming series of romantic and
picturesque views. Trap rock of various kinds pre-
dominates throughout the parish, and. has been largely
worked for building material. The soil is various, but
generally good. About 235 acres are under wood, and
nearly all the rest of the land is in tillage. Stone
coffins, funereal urns, and a few coins have been from
time to time discovered. David Balfour, son of the
proprietor of Mountquhanie, was one of the plotters
and perpetrators of the death of Cardinal Beaton ;
David Hackston of Rathillet was one of the murderers
of Archbishop Sharp ; and the Rev. Dr Chalmers was
minister from 1803 till 1814. Moimtquhanie, noticed
separately, is the chief residence ; and the property is
divided among 11. Kilmany is in the presbytery of
Cupar and synod of Fife ; the living is worth £291.
The parish church, at Kilmany village, is a very plain
structure of 1768, containing 320 sittings. A U.P.
church, also a very plain building, is at Rathillet ; and
two public schools, Kilmany and^Kilmany female, with
respective accommodation for 03 and 38 children, had
(1881) an average attendance of 41 and 22, and grants
of £27, 16s. and £18, 10s. Valuation (1866) £8858,
(1883) £9469, 15s. Pop. (1801) 787, (1831) 707, (1861)
656, (1871) 651, (1881) 6?A.—0rd. Sur., sh. 48, 1868.

Kilmajdinny, a mansion in New Kilpatrick parish,
SE Dumbartonshire, Ih mile S by W of Jlilngavie. A
handsome edifice, with charming "grounds ami a beauti-
ful lakelet, it belongs to the heirs of Robert Dalglish,
Esq. (1808-80), Liberal M.P. for Glasgow from 1857 to
1874, who held 175 acres in Dumbarton and Renfrew
shires, valued at £553 per annum.— Orcf. Sur., sh. 30,
1866.

370

Kilmarie. See Akdnamukchax.

Kilmarnock, a stream of fair size in the Cunninghame
district of Ayrshire. It is formed by two streams that
rise on the S border of Eaglesham parish in the county
of Renfrew. The one to the W is known in Renfrew-
shire as Greenfield Burn, and in its Ayrshire part
as Fenwick Water. That to the W issues from Loch
Goin or Blackwoodhill Dam, and is known at first as
Loch Burn ; after receiving Birk Burn it is known
as Duntou Water, and then as Craufurdland Water.
Both flow in a general south-westerly direction, the
former for 10 miles and the latter for 8^ miles, chiefiy
through Fenwick and Kilmarnock parishes till they
unite at Dean Castle, 1 mile NE of the town of Kil-
marnock. The united stream known as Kilmarnock
AVater has then a course of 2 miles till it falls into
Irvine Water 3 furlongs AV of Riccarton. In the 17th
centurj- Pont speaks of it as the Meruock, and Franck in
his Northern Memoirs as the ilarr, while an old rhyme
calls it the Garth —

' The Water of Carth rins by the Dean
Tliat ance was Lord Boyd's lodgin.'

A curious sudden freshet that took place on the stream
in 1S52, is noticed in the article on the burgh of Kil-
marnock.—Orrf. Sur., sh. 22, 1865.

Kilmarnock (Gael. Kil Marnocli, the ' Chiirch of St
Marnoch '), a parish containing a large town of the same
name in the Cunninghame district of Aj^shire. Prior to
1642 it included also the present parish of Fenwick.
The modern parish is bounded N and E by Fenwick,
SE by Loudoun, S byGalston and by Riccarton, and AA' by
Kilmaurs. The shape is somewhat irregular, but may
be roughly described as a parallelogram with the SAV
corner drawn out and a protuberance stuck on to the
NW corner. The boundary on the SE is formed by
Polbaith Burn for 5^ miles, and on the S for 7| miles
by Irvine Water, which divides it from Kyle ; elsewherfc
the line is artificial. The greatest length is from ENE
at Sneddon Law, to WSW at the point where the
parishes of Kilmarnock, Riccarton, and Kilmaurs meet,
a distance of 9| miles, and the greatest breadth, from
NW at the point where Kilmarnock, Kilmaurs, and Fen-
wick meet, to SE at the point where Kilmarnock,
Loudoun, and Galston meet, a distance of 5| miles. The
area is 9552^ acres, of which 108J are water. The sur-
face rises from S to N. The height above sea-level on
the S side is 127 feet near the town, and 173 at the SE
corner, and from this there is a gradual increase till
near the NE corner of Northcraig Reservoir it reaches
327 feet, N of Laigh Blackwood 410, near High Rusha
650, and at Sneddon Law 782. The drainage is eflected
by the Polbaith Burn on the SE, by Kilmarnock AA^ater
on the AV, and by several smaller burns between, all
flowing to the SAV and entering Irvine Water. The
soil is a deep strong fertile loam, though in the NE it
is somewhat inclined to moss.

Up till near the close of last century agriculture was
in a very backward condition, but, in 1792, a society was
instituted for the purpose of promoting agricultural pro-
gress, and now the whole landward part of the parish,
except about 400 acres at the NE corner at Sneddon
Law, and a few patches of wood at Craufurdland Castle
and elsewhere, is under cultivation. Great attention is
paid, as elsewhere throughout Ayrshire, to dairy farm-
ing, the produce in cheese being about equal in value to
that in oats, and double the value of the produce in
wheat. The underlying rocks are carboniferous, partly
volcanic, and partlj^ sandstone. Coal is extensively
worked in the SW, and an excellent white sandstone
has long been worked near Dean Castle at the junction
of Craufurdland and Fenwick AA''aters, and near this are
also workings of fire-brick clay. Other industries are
noticed under the burgh. The chief seats are Annan-
hill, Assloss, and Craufui'dland Castle ; and the latter,
Dean Castle, and Rowallan are the principal objects of
antiquarian interest. The oldest part of Craufurdland
Castle, 2i miles NE of the town of Kilmarnock, on a
steep bank overlooking Craufurdland AA'ater, dates tra-

EILMARNOCK

ditionally from the early part of the 11th century ; the
centre is modern. The glen of the stream below is very
pretty, and in the woods to the N is a large loch — a great
curling resort. The proprietor, Lieut. -Col. J. R. Houison-
Craufurd, is a lineal descendant of the Houisons or
Howiesons of BPwAEHead. Dean Castle, 1 mile NE
of the town, at the junction of Fenwick and Craufurd-
land Waters, is described by Pont in his CunningJuim
Topogra'phized {drca 1609) as * Kilmernock Castell. It
is a staitly faire ancient building, arrysing in two grate
heigh towers, and bulte arround courtewayes vith fyve
low buldings ; it is veiU planted, and almost environed
with gardens, orchards, and a parke ; it belonged fir^t
to ye Locartts, lords thereof, then to the Lord Soulis, and
now the cheifte duelling almost for -300 zeirs of ye Lords
Boyde.' The remains of the building consist of two
large towers of unequal height. In the second story of
the higher is the great hall 38 by 22 feet, and 26 high.
There is a finely arched stone ceiling. The space be-
tween the two towers was at one time covered with
buildings, but these are now gone. Here Margaret or
Mary, the sister of James III., and wife of Thomas Boyd,
Earl of Arran, was kept 'as in a free prison,' and in
Covenanting times Dean Castle was occupied by Captain
luglis or Inglish (some of whose infamous exploits are
referred to in a note to Scott's Old 3Iortality) and a
body of soldiers trying to enforce the hated prelacy. In
1735 the castle was almost entirely destroyed by fire,
and was never restored. The Boyds make their first
appearance about 1205 with Sir Robert de Boyd, who
signs as a witness in a contract about Irvine, and his
son, also Robert, having distinguished himself at the
battle of Laegs, was rewarded by Alexander III. with
'grants of several lands in Cunningham.' His chief
exploit was the defeat of a strong body of Xorsemen at
a place called Goldberry Hill, and this is said to be the
origin of the motto Gold Berry on the Kilmarnock arms.
They next figure on the National side in the wars of
Independence, and they were rewarded by Bruce with
grants of additional land. From this time down to the
reign of James III., they were prominent in the west
country, and, in 1468, Robert, Lord Boyd, became
regent, and married his son Thomas to ilargaret, King
James' sister. The creation of Thomas as Earl of Arran,
his mission to Denmark, and the fall of the family are
well known. The Earl of Arran died at Antwerp, but
the estates were subsequently restored, and the title re-
vived by James V. in favour of Robert Boyd, a descen-
dant of the old family, who distinguished himself at the
Battle of the Butts (see Glasgow). His son sided with
Queen Marj-, and was, of course, looked on with dis-
favour by Regent Murray, but he was held in high es-
teem subsequently by King James VI. During the
troubles in the time of Charles I. the Boyds were
staunch Royalists, and were rewarded in 1661 with in-
creased rank as Earls of Kilmarnock. The representa-
tive of the family in 1715 adhered to the Hanoverian
cause, but the fomtii Earl, in 1745, took a different
course, partly through resentment against the govern-
ment for depriving him of a pension, and partly perhaps
through the entreaties of his wife, who was a daughter
of the Earl of Linlithgow, who had been attainted for
taking part in the rebellion of 1715. Taken prisoner
after Culloden, he was tried before the House of Lords,
condemned to death as guilty of high treason, and
executed at London on 18 Aug. 1746. His son
recovered the estate, but afterwards sold it to the Glen-
cairn famUy. By the death of his grand-aunt, who was
Countess of Errol in her own right, he, in 1758, be-
came Earl of Errol, and that family now represents the
Boyds in the direct line, while, since 1831, the Earl has
also held the title in the British peerage of Baron Kil-
marnock of Kilmarnock. Rowallan Castle is in the
outlying corner of the parish on the NW, on the banks
of Carmel "Water. A portion of the house dates from
1562, but part is older. It was long the residence of
the Barons of Rowallan, but now belongs to the Earl of
Loudoun. It was the birthplace of Elizabeth More or
Mure, first wife of Robert II., and the residence of Sir

KILMAENOCK

"William Mure (1594-1657), a member of the parliament
that met at Edinburgh in 1643 to ratify the Solemn
League and Covenant, and a poet of some note in his
day. From the religious meetings that took place in
his time part of the house still bears the name of the
' Auld Kirk. ' His chief works are The Cry of Blood arid,
of a Broken Covenant (Edinb. 1650), The Historie and
Descent of the Hov^c of Roicallane (written about 1657),
and a metrical version of the Psalms, which, under the
name of Rowallan's Psalter, was held in high esteem
among the Reformers.

The parish is traversed by a number of main roads
which, starting from the town of Kilmarnock as a centre,
pass to Glasgow, Hamilton, Lanark, Mauchline, Ayr,
and Irvine ; and also by portions of the Glasgow and
South-AVestern Ptailway system, radiating from the
town and passing to Glasgow (by Barrhead or by Paisley),
to Dumfries and the S, to Ayr, to Troon, to Irvine, and
to Saltcoats. The town of Kilmarnock is situated near
the S"W comer of the palish, while about the middle of
the southern boundary is the village of Crookedholm,
now practically swallowed up in the thriving iron
town of Hurlford. The principal landowners are
Lady Ossington, the Duke of Portland, the Earl of
Loudoun, John White, Esq. of Grougar, Lieut.-Col. J. R.
Houison-Craufurd of Craufurdland, W. Dunlop, Esq. of
Annanhill, and Miss Parker of Assloss. Three proprie-
tors hold each an annual value of £500 or upwards, 108
hold each between £500 and £100, 126 hold each be-
tween £100 and £50, and there are a considerable
number holding a smaller amount. The parish is in
the presbytery of Irvine and the synod of Glasgow and
Ayr, and is ecclesiastically divided into the parts at-
tached to the collegiate charge of the Laigh Kirk — the
original parish church — the High Kirk, St Andrew's, and
St Marnoch's, the latter two being quooA sacra parishes.
It also contains a portion of the quoad sacra, parish of
Hurlford. The populations attached to these in 1881
were respectively 11,633, 3172, 6915, 3487, and 657.
The stipend of the first minister of the Low Kirk is
£3S7 ; that of the second minister is £355. The
churches are noticed in connection with the town.
The landward school board has under its charge the
public schools of Crookedholm, Grougar, and Row-
allan, which, with accommodation for respectively 200,
100, and 100 pupils, had in 1881 an average attendance
of 272, 30, and 110, and grants of £128, 2s. 4d., £37,
2s., and £93, 93. Valuation, exclusive of burgh, (1883)
£20,605, 19s., -plus £2363 for raUwavs. Pop. (1801)
8079, (1821) 12,769, (1841)19,956, (1861) 23,551, (1871)
24,071, (,1881) 25,564, of whom 12,607 were males, and
13,257 were females. — Ord,. Sur., sh. 22, 1865.

The United Presbyterian Chnrch has a presbytery of
Kilmarnock — meeting at that town on the second Tues-
day of February, and of every alternate month, — with
4 churches in Kilmarnock, 2 each in Ayr, Irvine, and
Saltcoats, and 20 at respectively Ardrossan, Catrine,
Cumnock, Dairy, Fenwick, Galston, Girvan, Glengar-
nock, Kilmaurs, Kilwinning, Mauchline, Maybole,
Sluirkirk, Newmilns, Patna, Prestwick, Stewarton,
Tarbolton, Troon, and West Kilbride.

Kilmamock, a royal and police burgh in the SW
corner of the parish just described, a seat of important
manufactures, the largest town in the West of Scot-
land S of Paisley, and the tenth most populous town in
the whole of Scotland. It stands on Irvine and Kil-
marnock Waters, and the municipal boundary crosses
the former, and takes in also the Riccarton suburb
which is in Riccarton parish. The town has a station
on the Glasgow and South-Westem railway main line
by Dumfries to Carlisle, while it is also the terminus
of the Troon and Kilmarnock railway, and has other
lines joining the Glasgow and Ayr line at Dairy and
Irvine — all the routes belonging to the same system.
It is by rail 7^ miles E of Irvine, 9| NNW of Mauch-
line, loJXXEof AjT, 23f and 33i by the direct route and
by the Paisley and Dairy route, SSW of Glasgow ; by
road it is 12 miles from Ayr and 22 from Glasgow. The
site slopes gentlv to the S, and is from 120 to 170 feet

371

KILMARNOCK

aliove sea-level. The name, like that of the parish, is
from Kil Marnoch, that is, the Church of Saint Mar-
noch or Jlernoc. The Avord Mernoc itself is a con-
traction of the Celtic words Mo-Ernin-occ, the prefix
meaning 'my' and the suiEx 'little,' while the centre
is the name of an Irish saint, Ernin or Ernene, who
died in 634 according to the Annals of Ulster, and in
ti35 according to Tighernach. Adamnan, in his Life of
St Columha, mentions him as a boy attached to the
monastery of Clonmacnoise, ' mean in dress and look,
and who had not hitherto stood well in the opinions of
the seniors,' and as coming forward, when St Coluraba
\-isited the monastery, 'stealthiW, that he might touch
unperceived even the hem of the cloak which the blessed
man wore, without his feeling or knowing ; ' but the
saint caught him, and bringing him forward blessed his
tongue, and said to the monks, ' Though this boy ap-
pears to you now very contemptible and worthless, let
no one on that account despise him. For from this
hour not only will he not displease you, but he will
give 3'ou every satisfaction ; from day to da}' he shall
advance by degrees in good conduct and in the virtues
of the soul ; from this day wisdom and prudence shall
be more and more increased in him, and great shall be
his progress in this your community ; his tongue also
shall receive from God the gift of both wholesome doc-
trine and eloquence.' And this came true, for Adamnan
adds that Ernene, son of Crasen, ' was afterwards famous
and most highly honoured in all the churches of Ire-
land. ' The Breviary of Aberdeen appoints the festival
' Sancti Mernoci epyscopi et confessoris 2Mti'oui de Kil-
mernoch ' for 25 Oct.

History. — The original church had been probably
dedicated to St Marnoch's memory by some of his
disciples ; but the first church of which we find notice
is one stated by Pont, on the authority of the records of
the abbey of Kilwinning, to have been ' bulte by the
Locartts, Lords of it [Cunninghame], and dedicat to a
holy man Mernock.' This would place the foundation
probably about the end of the 12th or the beginning
of the 13th century; but there must have been subse-
quent alterations, for one of the door lintels of the old
church is said to have borne the date 1410, and this
date was about 1840 inscribed on the steeple belonging
to it, and now attached to the Laigh Kirk. The church
was a curacy under Kilwinning Abbey. In these early
days the place must have been a mere hamlet, for almost
the only notice of it is in Barbour's Bruce, where men-
tion is made of the route of Sir Philip de Mowbray in
his flight after being defeated by Sir James Douglas in
1306—

' Tharfor furth the wayis tuk he then

To Kylmarnock and Kilwynnyne

And till Ardrossane eftre s}-ne.'

Even long after this time it still remained a mere vil-
lage, depending on the neighbouring castle of Dean ;
but the favour James VI. entertained for Thomas, the
fifth Lord Boyd, led him to grant a charter of erection
for it as a burgh of barony in 1591, and this was ratified
by parliament in 1592. It was probably by this time a
thriving village, for in 1603 there is a reference to the
manufacture of hose and bonnet making, which is sup-
posed to have originated here, and must soon have be-
come a prosperous industry, for in 1647, at a court held
by 'ane Noble Lord, James Lord Boyd,' and his bailies,
about thirty bonnet weavers appeared and made com-
plaint that servants were being enticed away or were
going away, and taking work on their own account,
contrary to the welfare of the trade ; and it was in con-
sequence ordained that ' no servant or other person
presume to take up work at their own hand until first
he be thought worthy by the craft, and have given in
his sey [essay or trial-piece] to them.' Pont, describing
it in the beginning of the 17th century, says : — ' Kil-
mernock-toune and Kirk is a large village and of grate
repaire. It hath in it a veekly market and hath a faire
stone bridge over the river JIarnock, vich glides liard
by the said toune till it falles into the river Irving.
It hatli a pretty church, from vich ye village castell
372

KILMARNOCK

and lordschipe takes its name. . . . The Lord Boyd
is now Lord of it, to quhosse predicessors it hath be-
longed for many generations.' The bridge was on the
site of the present Old Bridge, which replaced it in
1762. In Franck's Northern Memoirs (1658) the manu-
factures are given as the 'knitting of bonnets and
spinning of Scottish cloth, which turns to very good
account. Then,' he adds, 'for their temper of metals
they are without compeer — Scotland has not better ;
and as they are artisans in dirks, so are they artists in
fuddling, as if . . . art and ale were inseparable
companions.' Of the place itself he had even a worse
opinion than of the inhabitants. The streets were ' sel-
dom clean but on a sun-shiny day, or at other times,
when great rains melt all the muck, and forcibly drive
it down their cadaverous channels into the river Marr
. . . the influence of planets is their best scavenger.'
The houses he describes as ugly, and ' little better than
huts, all built so low that their eaves hang dangling to
touch the earth . . . not one good structure is to
be found in Kilmarnock, nor do I remember any wall it
has, but a river there is, as I formerly told you of, that
runs through the town ; over which there stood a bridge
so wretchedly antient, that it 's unworthy our commen-
dations. '

During the Covenanting troubles of the 17tli century
Kilmarnock figured at various times, and this district,
like the other parts of the SW, furnished a considerable
number of sufferers. After the Revolution the people
were quite willing to have some slight revenge, and so
in 1689 Mr Bell, the parson of Kilmarnock, was
'rabbled.' He was seized near Riccarton, carried
prisoner to Kilmarnock, where his Booh of Common
Prayer was taken from him and burned, had the skirt
of his gown cut otf with a sword, and was finally dis-
missed as ' an ignorant, obdurate curate and malig-
nant.' After the rising that terminated so disastrously
at RuUion Green on the Pentlands, in 1667, the
village became the headquarters of General Dalziel,
who was in command of the troops in the SW,
and the little prison known as 'Thieves' Hole,' to
the W of the Cross, was soon filled with miserable
prisoners. The house in which Dalziel himself lodged,
at the end of the Old Bridge, immediately behind the
present Victoria Place, was long looked on with horror
in consequence of the association, and must therefore
have escaped the misfortune that overtook the greater
part of the jjlace in May 1668, when 'the whole toun
was burnt into ashes by a violent fire that broke out
accidentallie, and about 120 families wer cast out of all
habitation and brought to povertie and beggarie.' In
1678 the ' Highland Host ' was qi;artered here as else-
where in the West, and, not satisfied with private thefts
and free quarters, a body of them attempted to sack the
town. The Boyds had, in the early part of the centurj',
been Covenanters, and the seventh Lord signed the
National Covenant in 1638 ; but now, though the Earl
of Kilmarnock does not seem to have taken any active
part in the persecution, he must have at least tacitly
acquiesced in the state of affairs that prevailed, for he
was in such favour with the authorities, that in 1672
he obtained from Charles II. a second charter conferring
fresh rights and privileges on the town ; and in 1690 an
effort was made, with the Earl's consent, to have it
erected into a royal burgh, and at the same time the
common good and customs were sold to the community.
The attempt to obtain a charter as a royal burgh failed ;
but in 1700 the common good and customs, vnth. 'the
common greens of the said town, shops under the tol-
booth thereof, the weights, pecks, and measures, the
tron and weights thereof, and the customs of the fairs
and weekly markets, and all the customs belonging to
the said burgli of baronj-, passed over to the town on a
payment of £3650 Scots and a yearly feu-duty of £7
Scots. The tron stood at the Cross, and existed down
till about the beginning of the present century. During
the rebellion of 1715 the town was firmly Hanoverian,
and the neighbourhood raised a considerable body of
militia to fight against the rebels. When the fenciblea

KILMARNOCK

KILMARNOCK

of Cunninghame mnf5terecl at Irvine in the end of sum-
mer in that year, ' the Earl of Kihiiarnock appeared at
the head of ahove five hundred of his own men, Avell
appointed and expert,' and later in the year bodies of
them were stationed for a time at Glasgow, and after-
wards in Perthshire. In 1745, though the J'oung Earl
declared for the Stuarts, the townsmen adhered to their
old principles, and refused to follow their superior.

From this time onwards the history of the burgh has
been one of progress and prosperity, except during the
Chartist times between 1816 and 1820 — when grave
fears of serious disturbances were several times enter-
tained— and in 1852, when on 14 Jirly a violent thunder-
storm visited the district, accompanied by heavy rain.
The streams that unite to form the Kilmarnock Water
came roaring down in very high flood, destroying all
the mills and bridges on the way ; and a large portion
of the town itself was flooded to a depth of from 2
to 7 feet. The damage done ■^•ithin the parliamentary
boundaries alone was estimated at £15,000, while nearly
200 families lost the greater part of their eflects, and
221 sustained loss of some sort or other.

About the middle of the 18th century Kilmarnock
consisted of a few narrow and crooked streets and lanes
between the Cross and the site of the High Kirk,
including those now known as High Street, Back
Street, Fore Street, Soulis Street, Cro'ft Street, Strand
Street, and Sandbed Street ; but the place was even
then prospering so well that in 1765 the Earl of Glen-
cairn opened up a new street, straight and wide, leading
from Kilmarnock to Eiccarton. This is now Glencairn
Street, Glencairn Sijuare, and Titchfield Street. In the
next fifty years further extension took place to Dean
Street on the N, and to Grange Street on the W ;
while the Cross district and Titchfield Street had been
united by King Street ; and East and West Shaw Streets,
Netherton and Douglas Street had branched out from
the road formed by the Earl of Glencairn. In 1800 a
fire broke out in the lower part of the to^vn called
Netherton Holm, the present Low Gleucairn Street ;
and, fanned by a brisk breeze and fed by thatched
roofs, it was not subdued till it had destroyed over
thirty-two houses, and rendered some 300 persons of
the poorer class homeless. The attention thus drawn
to the old narrow thoroughfares resulted in the Im-
provement Act of 1802 ; and the operations of the
commissioners then appointed led at once to the re-
moval of nuisances, the Avidening of old thoroughfares,
and the laying out of new streets. A new bridge was
built, and King Street, Portland Street, and Welling-
ton Street were all opened before 1810 ; and since that
time, and more particularly between 1855 and 1870,
a large number of new streets have been formed,
the principal being Portland Road, Duke Street, John
Finnie Street, Dundonald Eoad, and Hamilton Street,
while many handsome villas have been erected in Port-
land Koad, London Pioad, Dundonald Road, Witch
Road, and elsewhere. The town now comprises two
central areas or squares, a suburban square, and about
sixty-five streets exclusive of lanes. It is about 2 miles
long from N to S and 1 mile wide, the municipal boun-
dary under the Extension Act of 1871 stretching from
the Millbum on the AV to Irvine Road on the E, and from
beyond Beansbum on the N to beyond Eiccarton on the S.

Public Buildi/igs.~-Th.e Town-Hall or Council Cham-
bers stand in King Street, and are built on part of a
long arched way, which carries the street and the
adjacent buildings across Kilmarnock Water. It
was erected in 1805, and though now hardly worthy of
such a town, is a neat structure of two stories, sur-
mounted by a belfry. The bell and a curious carved
mantelpiece in one of the rooms both belonged to the old
Town-House which stood to the W of the Cross. The
principal room or court-room contains a portrait of Sir
James Shaw ; one, by James Tannock, of Sir John
Dunlop. first M. P. for the Kilmarnock burghs ; one, by
the same artist, of Burns ; one, bj' William Tannock, of
B. R. Bell, first sheriff'-substitute for the district ; one of
the late Earl of Eglinton, by Sir John Watsou Gordon ;

and one of Sir John Shaw, nephew and successor of the
above-mentioned Sir James. The bridge on wliich the
Town-Hall stands was erected in 1804, and long bore
the name of the New Bridge. It supports also the
meat market. Four other liridges cross Kilmarnock
Water and the Irvine within the burgh boundaries,
and a viaduct of twenty-four lofty arches carries the
Glasgow and South-Western railway over Portland
Street, Soulis Street, and Kilmarnock Water. The
Court-House, a good building in St Marnock Street,
was erected in 1852, and subsequently enlarged and
improved. The Tontine or Exchange Buildings at the
Cross were erected in 1814, and the large hall served
both as a well-furnished reading-room and as a place of
mercantile resort, until it was discontinued in 1880.
At the corner of Green Street and London Eoad, on
part of what was once the Low Green, stands the Com
Exchange. It was erected in 1862 at a cost of about
£6600, of which £6000 is the capital of a joint-stock
company, and £600 was raised by public subscription
for the erection of the tower, which is designed as a
memorial of the late Prince Consort, and is known as
the Albert Tower. It rises to a height of 110 feet, and
has a public clock. The town's arms are cut on the
front, and the head carved on the keystone of the
window of the main building immediately underneath,
represents Prince Albert ; that to the left, Lord Clyde ;
and that to the right. Sir John Shaw. The main build-
ings, covering a space of about 1602 square yards, are
Italian in design, and rise to a height of two stories.
The lower story is occupied in front by shops, and be-
hind by a large hall 84 feet long, 51 wide, antl 51 high,
which is used for corn exchange and other public pur-
poses. There is accommodation for 1200, and at one
end is a fine and powerful organ. The upper story
contains two large halls, one of which, fronting Green
Street, contains the Kilmarnock Library ; and the other,
fronting London Road, is used for the Athenaeum Read-
ing Room. The Kilmarnock Library was instituted in
1797, and by 1862 the library contained 3000 volumes. In
that 3'ear this library, and those belonging to the Philo-
sophical Institution and the Kilmarnock Athenaeum,
were all amalgamated, and the number of volumes is
now about 10,000, and is annually increasing. About
£100 a year from the Crawford bequest is available for
library puqioses, besides the members' subscriptions.
The Philosophical Institution was founded in 1823 for
' the promotion of general, and more particularly of
scientific, knowledge,' and sought to attain this end by
the formation of a library and museum, by the delivery
of lectures, and the holding of meetings for discussion.
The Athenaeum was founded in 1848, for ' the social
and intellectual improvement of the inhabitants, more
especially of the youth and working classes, by the
providing of a first-class reading-room, the maintaining
of a library,' and by such other means as might seem
proper. Though the libraries are now all amalgamated,
the institutions themselves still remain separate. The
subscription for all three is 12s. 6d. per annum, and for
each separately a smaller sum. To the S of the Corn
Exchange is a large building 81 feet long and 64 wide,
used as a market for the sale of butter, eggs, etc.

To the SE, on the ground at the bend of the river, is
a large hall known as the Agiicultural Hall, and used
for the annual shows of dairy produce, etc. , held by the
Agricultural Association, and also as a volunteer drill-
hall. The theatre, a handsome Italian building in
John Finnie Street, was erected in 1875 at a cost of
£7000, provided by a joint-stock company. It is well
fitted up, and has accommodation for 1050 persons.
The Fever Hospital and Infirmary, on Mount Pleasant, at
the N end of Portland Street, was erected in 1867 at a
cost of £4146, and has a large number of patients who
are carefully tended. It is under the management of a
body of directors, and has a staff" consisting of a resi-
dent doctor, two consulting physicians, and a consult-
ing surgeon. The Astronomical Observatory, at ilorton
Place, was erected in 1818 by the late Thomas Morton,
Esq., at a cost of £1000. On an elevated situation

373

KILMARNOCK

KILMARNOCK

and rising to a height of 70 feet, it commands an ex-
cellent view. It contains two telescopes — one New-
tonian 9| inches in diameter, and the other Gregorian
7 inches in diameter, and both made by Mr Morton
himself — and a camera obscura. Kilmarnock House
stands between St Marnock Street and Nelson Street,
and was the place of residence of the Kilmarnock
family after the burning of Dean Castle already referred
to. The older part dates from the latter part of the
17th century, and the western part was being built
immediately before the rebellion of 1745-46. There
are grounds with trees, and along the line of Dundonald
Road is a tree-bordered avenue known as the Lady's
"Walk, which is said to take its name from its having
been a favourite place of resort of the last Countess of
Kilmarnock after the execution of her husband. The
"Walk was considerably improved in 1879. The build-
ing itself is now used as a Ragged and Industrial School.
During the Reform agitation of 1832, a meeting at which
it is said 17,000 persons were present, was held on the
lawn in front. There are also other handsome build-
ings in several of the streets— particularly the buildings
of the Co-operative Society at the corner of John Finuie
and John Dickie Streets, erected in 1879-80 at a cost of
£4000, and several of the bank offices. In Ladeside
Street is a model lodging-house erected in 1878. At
the Cross is a statue of Sir James Shaw (1764-1843),
a native of the adjacent parish of Riccarton, Lord
Mayor of London in 1805-6. The monument, wliich
was the work of James Fillans, was erected in 1848.
The statue, which represents Sir James in his official
robes as Lord Maj'or, is about 8 feet high. It is of
Carrara marble, and stands on a pedestal with a base of
Aberdeen granite. The scroll he is holding in his hand
represents the warrant of precedence he obtained in
1806, reviving the right of the Lord Mayor of London
to take precedence of every one except tlie sovereign
in all public processions in the city. At the S corner
of the Ci'oss is a circular granite stone with the inscrip-
tion, ' John Nisbet was executed here 14th April 1683.'
It marks the place of execution of a Covenanter who
was charged with having been engaged in the battle
of Bothwell Bridge. A temperance coffee house, pre-
sented to the town by Lady Ossington, lady of the
manor, was erected in 1883 at a cost of £3500.
On the NE of the town and E of High Street is
the large and well laid out public park known as
the Kay Park. The ground was purchased in terms
of a bequest by the late Mr Alexander Kay (1796-
1866), who, at his death, bequeathed £10,000 for the
jiurpose of acquiring ground for and laying out a public
park in Kilmarnock. The present ground, extending
altogether to over 40 acres, of which a very small part
is reserved for feuing, was acquired at a cost of £9000,
and after £3000 had been spent in laying it out, was
finally opened to the public in 1879. Near the centre
of it is the Burns Monument erected in 1878-79. It is
a two-story building, Scotch Baronial in style, with a
tower rising to a height of 80 feet. The situation is
elevated, and from the top of the tower fine views are
obtained of the town and the surrounding districts. On
the ground floor are rooms for the accommodation of
the keeper. A handsome stone staircase leads up in
front to a projecting portion of the upper story, and
here, as in a shrine, is a fine marble statue of Burns by
^V. G. Stevenson. The poet is represented standing
with a pencil in his right hand and a note-book in his
left, while a cluster of daisies rises at his feet. Behind
are three rooms used as a museum, and containing a
number of interesting relics connected with the poet, a
copy of the first (the Kilmarnock) edition of his poems,
a copy by James Tannock of Nasmytli's portrait of
Burns, a portrait of Mr Alexander Kay by A. S. Mackay,
and a portion of the remains discovered in the crannoge
found at Lochlea. The building cost over £1500 and
the statue £800. The fountain to the SW was the gift
of the late Mrs Crooks of Wallace Bank. There is also
a public recreation ground between Dundonald Road
and the bank of Irvine Water.
374

Churches. — The Laigh Kirk or Low Parish Church
stands near the centre of the town, and occupies the
site of an older church erected about the middle of the
18th century. This does not seem to have been a very
substantial structure, for it had to be taken down in
1802, when the present one was erected. It might have
stood longer, but, its strength being doubted, the fall
of some plaster from the ceiling during afternoon ser-
vice caused a panic that resulted in the death of 29 per-
sons, and the heritors, anxious to allay all cause of
alarm, sanctioned its removal. The spire seems to have
survived from a still earlier church, and is said to have
had the date 1410 on a door-lintel. The date now to be
seen was cut about the middle of the present century.
The building of 1802 was enlarged in 1831 at a cost of
£1200, and now contains 1457 sittings. One good
lesson learned from the panic is visible in the spacious
staircases leading to the galleries. An organ was intro-
duced some years ago at a cost of about £500. In the
interior is a stone in memory of Robert, fourth Lord
Boyd, with the following epitaph said to be the composi-
tion of Alexander Montgomery, author of The Cherrie
and the Slae : —

'15S9
Heir lyis yt godlie, noble wyis lord Boyd
Quha kirk & king & commiii well decoir'd
Quhilke war (quhill they yis jowell all injoyd)
Dcfendit, counsaild, governd, be that lord.
His ancient hous (oft parreld) he restoird.
Twyis sax and saxtie zeirs he leivd and sjTie
By death (ye thrid of Januare) devoird
In anno thryis fyve hundreth auchtye nyne.'

In the surrounding churchyard [there are, among other
interesting stones, several to the memory of persons who
suffered death during the Covenanting persecutions.
The verses on the older ones are very peculiar. The
following are the inscriptions : —

' Here lie the Heads of John Ross and John Shields, who suffered
at Edinburgh Dec. 27th 1666 and had their Heads set up in Kil-
marnock.

Our persecuters mad with wrath and ire

In Edinburgh members some do lye, some here ;

Yet instantly united they shall be

And witness 'gainst this nation's perjury.'

On another of recent erection is the following : —

' Sacred to the memory of Thomas Finlay, John Cuthbertson,
William Brown, Eobert and James Anderson (natives of this
parish) who were taken prisoners at Bothwell, June '22nd 1679,
sentenced to transportation for life, and drowned on their passage
near the Orkney Isles. Also, John Finlay, who suffered Martyr-
dom 15th December, 1682, in the Grass-Market, Edinburgh.
Peace to the Church ! her peace no friends invade.
Peace to each noble Martyr's honoured shade ;
They, with undaunted courage, truth, and zeal
Contended for the Church and Country's weal ;
We share the fruits, we drop the grateful tear.
And peaceful Ashes o'er their ashes rear.'

On another : —

'Here lies John Nisbet, who was taken by Major Balfour's
Party and suffered at Kilmarnock, 14th April, 1683, for adhering
to the Word of God and our Covenants. Rev. xli. & 11.

Come, reader, see, here pleasant Nisbet lies.
His blood doth pierce the high and lofty skies ;
Kilmarnock did his latter hour perceive
And Christ his soul to heaven did receive.
Yet bloodj' Torrence did his body raise
And buried it into another place ;
Saying " Shall rebels lye in graves with me !
AVe'U bury him where evil doers be." '

The Laigh Kirk is the church that figures in Burns'
poem of The Ordination. The High Church, in Soulis
Street, was erected as a chapel of ease in 1732, and the
steeple (which is 80 feet high) in 1740. The total cost
was about £1000. It is a very plain building with 952
sittings, and is surrounded by an extensive burial-
ground. A separate parish was constituted and at-
tiiched to it in 1811. A three-light window was, in
1869, filled with stained glass, as a memorial of the last
Earl of Kilmarnock, and a few years ago an organ was
introduced at a cost of nearly £300. In the wall en-
closing the churchyard, but fronting the street, is a niche

KILMARNOCK

KILMARNOCK

with a fluted pillar surmounted by an urn, and having a
pediment with an inscription to commemorate a Lord
Soulis who is said to have been killed here by one of the
Bojxls in 1444. The present monument was erected in
1825, and replaced a pillar surmounted by a small cross
and known as Soulis' Cross. This pillar was mentioned
by Pont, and was probably much older than 1444, at
which time no Soulis seems to have been connected with
the district. It had to be removed in consequence of
its decayed condition. St Marnock's Church, in St Mar-
uock Street, is a Gothic building of lS3o. It was built
as a chapel of ease at a cost of £5000 including the
tower, and has 1730 sittings. It was constituted a g'uoad
sacra church in 1862. The organ, which cost £350, was
the gift of John Gilmour, Esq. of Elmbank. St Andrew's
Church, in Richardlaud Road, was built as a chapel of
ease in 1841 at a cost of £1700, and became a quoad
sacra church in 1868. It contains 1093 sittings. The
burying-ground about it was opened in 1856 ; and that
adjoining, opened in 1837, was till 1875 the only
common burying-ground, the Low Churchyard having
been practically closed after 1850. In 1876 a new ceme-
tery of 7f acres was opened to the E of the town. It
has an entrance gateway in the Scottish Baronial style.
The Free High Church, in Portland Street, was built in
1844 at a cost of £3000, and has since been altered and
improved at different times at a cost of over £1000, the
last improvements being finished in 1881. It is a plain
building with a tower, and has 1228 sittings. The
Free St Andrew's Church, in Fowld's Street, was also
built in 1844 at a cost of £1200, and contains 930 sit-
tings. The Free Henderson Church, in "Wellington
Street, was originall}' erected in 1818 by a congregation
of Original Burghers, but the congregation has since
passed over to the Free Church. The first cost was
£1000, but as much has since been expended on altera-
tions and improvements. The number of sittings is 650.
The Grange Free church, in Woodstock Street, is a hand-
some Early English cruciform structure of 1877-79, with
a spire 140 feet high. There are 860 sittings, and a
hall and class-room to the E has accommodation for 500
persons. The total cost was £8000. Martyrs' Free
church, in Mill Lane, originally a Reformed Presby-
terian church, was built in 1825, but has since been al-
tered and improved. It contains 590 sittings. The
King Street U.P. church, built in 1832, is a mixed style
of architecture, with a spire 120 feet high. It was the
second dissenting church in Scotland with a steeple, and
the first M-ith a bell. It cost £3840, and contains 1493
sittings. Princes Street U. P. church is a neat building,
erected in 1842, and containing 750 sittings. Portland
Road U. P. church, a handsome Byzantine building, was
erected in 1859 at a cost of £1900. It contains 850 sit-
tings. It superseded a church in "Wellington Street built
in 1772, and removed in 1861, which was the first dissent-
ing church in the town. The Holm "U.P. Church was
built in 1880-81 at a cost of £1600, and contains nearlj'
500 sittings. The Original Secession church, in Fowld's
Street, is a very plain building erected in 1857 at a cost
of £500. It contains about 200 sittings. Clerk's Lane
Evangelical "Union church was originally erected in
1775 as an Antiburgher meeting-house, and was in 1807
rebuilt on a larger scale. The building, which is very
plain, contains 875 sittings. It changed its ecclesias-
tical connection in 1841, when its minister — now the
Eev. Dr Morison of Glasgow, and the founder of the
Evangelical Union Church — was deposed on a charge of
heresy. The Winton Place Evangelical Union church is a
good "building in the Early English style, erected in 1860
at a cost of £2700, and containing nearly 900 sittings.
The Baptist Church, off Fowld's Street, is a small build-
ing erected in 1869-70 with accommodation for about 50
persons. There was, prior to 1867, an Independent
church in Mill Lane, but since that j'ear the building has
ceased to be a church, and is now used for the na-etings
of the Kilmarnock Abstainers' Union, to which body it
now belongs. The Episcopal church (Trinity), at the
corner of Dundonald Road and Portland Road, is a good
building in the Early English style, with accommoda-

tion for 720 persons. It was erected in 1857 at a cost
of £1400 exclusive of the organ, which was presented by
"W. II. Houldsworth, Esq., at a cost of £1000, and is
the finest in town. There is a stone pulpit, and the
chancel is finely decorated and lighted by a stained-
glass ^\-indow in memory of the late Patrick Boyle, Esq.
of Shewalton. The Roman Catholic church (St Joseph's),
to the N of Portland Street, is a Gothic building erected
in 1847 at a cost of £3000, and contains 600 sittings.
From it an excellent view is obtained of the town and
the surrounding country.

Schools, etc. — The old Kilmarnock Academy, at the
site of the Agricultural Hall, was erected in 1807, and
superseded an older parish school erected in 1752 which
stood at the corner of Green Street. It had a vigoi-ous
and pi'osperous career till 1876, when it was closed
in consequence of the opening of the New Academy,
which was built by the School Board in 1875-76, and is
at once a secondary and an elementary school. The site
and playground cover about an acre. The building,
which cost £4500, is Elizabethan in style, and has a
frontage of 150 feet with a two-story centre and one-
story wings. There are classical, English, and mathe-
matical departments, and the staff consists of a rector,
5 masters, and 3 lady teachers. In 1881 the following
were the schools under the charge of the Burgh School
Board, with accommodation, average attendance, and
grant: — Academy (600, 611, £661, lis.). Grammar
(380, 393, £344, 2s. 6d.), Glencairn (400, 343, £218, 8s.),
High Street (400, 277, £203, 6s.), West Netherton (258,
220, £108, 9s. lid.), Kay's endowed in Bentinck Street
(248, 255, £174, 17s.), Kay's endowed in Wellington
Street (258, 256, £229, 2s.), Industrial (201, 206, £152,
9s.), and Roman Catholic (378, 295, £227, 16s.). The
last was greatly enlarged in 1882. The two schools in
Bentinck Street and Wellington Street were erected in
1869 under the will of the late Mr Kay, the donor of the
Kay Park, by which his trustees were directed ' to set
aside the sum of six thousand pounds sterling' for the pur-
pose of erecting and endowing ' schools in Kilmarnock, in
which may be given a plain, practical, and useful educa-
tion, such as is usually given in the best parochial schools
in Scotland, but not to include what is usually called a
classical education. ' It is also stipulated in the will that
moderate fees of from one shilling to one shilling and six-
pence per quarter are to be charged. The school of
Science and Art, in Woodstock Street, is a Tudor build-
ing, erected in 1877 at a cost of £1550. It contains 2
large lecture-rooms, and the classes in which instruction is
given to about 170 students every year are in connection
with the Science and Art Department at South Kensing-
ton. The principal benefactors of KUmarnock, besides Mr
Kay, have been Robert Crawford, who, in 1844, be-
queathed all his property for the purpose of providing
funds for the yearly purchase of books for the Kilmar-
nock Library ; and the Misses Buchanan (the last of
whom died in 1875), who bequeathed the lands and
estate of Bellfield to trustees who were to apply the annual
proceeds to small annual pajmients to the Ragged School,
to the Kilmarnock Infirmary, and to the deserving poor
of Riccarton ; £130 yearly for a salary for a missionary
in Riccarton parish, and the rest for the purpose of fit-
ting up part of the mansion as a public library, and
should the revenue be suSicient to fit up the rest of the
mansion as an asylum for aged and infirm people who
have resided in Kilmarnock or Riccarton for 10 years,
are over 60 years of age, and are not on the poor-roll.

Kilmarnock has also four bowling clubs, each with
a separate gi'een, several curling clubs, several football
clubs, a Mission to the Deaf and Dumb, Male and
Female Benevolent Societies, an Agricultural Society, a
Horticultural Society, a Philharmonic Society, four
Masonic Lodges (Kilmarnock Kilwinning, St John's,
No. 22 ; St Andrew's, No. 126 ; St ilarnock's ; and
St Clement's, Riccarton, No. 202), lodges of Odd-
fellows, Free Foresters, and Free Gardeners. During
the period of the Peninsular War two regiments of
volunteers were formed, and when the volunteer move-
ment of 1859 began Kilmarnock was the first place in

376

KILMARNOCK

Ayrshire to form a rompany. There are now the 1st
and 9th Ayrshire Rifle Volunteers and the 5th Ayrshire
Artillery Volunteers.

Trade. — The introduction of the -weaving of hose and
bonnets into the town in the end of the 16th century
has been already noticed, and by the beginning of the
18th century the trade was much more important than
that of any other place in the county. Defoe mentions
it in 1723 as famous for all kinds of cutler's ware — a
branch of trade that has long vanished. Carpet manufac-
ture was introduced in 1777, and by 1791 had prospered
so well that the annual value of the goods produced
amounted to £21,000. At the most prosperous period
of this trade, about 1S37, no less than twelve firms had
carpet factories ; but now the number is four, of which
one manufactures Brussels, and the rest only Scotch
carpets, both two-ply and three-ply. The three-ply
machine was the invention of a Kilmarnock mechanic —
Mr Thomas Morton (17S3-1862)— to whom is also due
the Brussels carpet machine, that works five colours
with four needles. Two firms now employ steam, and
the annual value of the goods produced is about
£120,000. Six spinning mills in the town or neigh-
bourhood supply yarn for the various weaving works.
Bonnet-making, in the departments of flat and ' cocked '
woollen bonnets and striped nightcaps, is carried on
by six firms, the annual product being worth about
£55,000. Miscellaneous weaving of tweeds, winceys,
and various woollen and mixed fabrics, is carried on
extensively by five fia-ms ; while the Nursery power-
loom cotton factory has 1100 looms at work. The
making and printing of shawls and calicoes (the former
introduced in 1824, the latter in 1770), as well as the
making of muslin, were all at one time extensively carried
on, the shawls made and printed in 1837 being valued
at £230,000 ; but now only two small works are thus
engaged. The boot and shoe trade was also at one
time considerable ; but it also decayed till 1873, when
a steam-power boot and shoe factory was established,
which now does a large trade. There is a large tan-
work and a brickwork. The staple trade now is in
connection with iron, there being a number of foundries
and machine-making establishments, including works
for making engines, gas-meters, agricultural implements,
and hydraulic appliances. "Works in connection with
the Glasgow and South-Western railway at Bonnieton
Square, to the W of the town, were transferred hither
from Glasgow in 1856-58 at a cost of £45,000. They
are inttended for the manufacture and repair of loco-
motive engines, carriages, and other appliances required
on the line. The store department was opened in 1874.
Round the town there are very extensive coal-fields and
works. There are five incorporated trades, viz., the
bonnet-makers, the skinners, the tailors, the shoemakers,
and the weavers — the first being the oldest, with a
charter dating from 1646. The shield of the town's
arms is the same as that of the Earls of Kilmarnock,
viz.. Azure, a iess cheque argent and gules.

ifunicijjalitij, etc. — Till near the end of the 17th
century Kilmarnock was
governed by a baron
bailie, and from that
time to the passing of
the Reform Bill by a pro-
vost, 6 bailies, a ti'ea-
surer, and 1 6 councillors.
It is now governed by
a provost, 6 bailies, a
treasurer, a dean of guild,
and 16 councillors, five
members of council
being returned for each
of the five wards into
which the town is di-
vided. The magistrates
and council are also
police commissioners, the force in their employment
in 1882 having been a superintendent and 20 men,
or 1 ofiicer to every 1231 of population. The super-
376-

Seal of Kilmarnock.

KILMARNOCK

intendent's salary is £190. The number of persons
tried at the instance of the police in 1881 was 758,
the number convicted was 747, the number com-
mitted for trial 10, and the number not dealt with
was 53. The Municipal Extension and Improvement
Act of 1871 transferred to the corporation the charge
of the gaswork, which was originally established by
a joint-stock company in 1822. The corporation re-
venue in 1881-82 was £814. Water was introduced
in 1850 by a joint-stock company, in whose hands the
works still remain. The original cost was £20,000, and
this has since been largely increased. The settling
reservoir is at Gainford, in the parish of Fenwick, and
covers 3 acres ; one storage reservoir is at Northcraig,
in Kilmarnock parish, and with its embankments covers
25 acres, and holds nearly 66,000,000 gallons ; another,
at Burnfoot, covers an area of 43 acres, and holds
80,000,000 gallons. The Northcraig distributing basin
is 240 feet above Kilmarnock Cross, and there is thus
always abundant pressure. A sheriff court is held every
Wednesday during the session, and a small debt court
on Thursday. A justice of peace court is held on the
first Tuesday of every month. Kilmarnock has a head
post office, Avith money order, savings' bank, insurance,
and telegraph departments. There ai'e branches of the
Bank of Scotland, the British Linen Com|}any, the
Clydesdale, the Commercial, the National, the Royal,
and the Union Banks, a National Security Savings'
Bank, agencies of 35 insurance companies, and 6 hotels.
The Liberal Kilmarnock Standard (1863) is published
on Saturday, and the Liberal Kilmarnock Herald (1880)
on Friday. There are general markets every Tuesday
and Friday, a corn market every Friday, and fairs on the
2 Feb., the second Tuesday of May, the last Thursday
of July, and the last Thursday of October. That in May
is known as the ' curd fair,' the Saturday after which is a
holiday ; that in July as the 'gooseberry fair ; ' and that
in October is the cheese show and fair, which is attended
by dealers from all parts of the kingdom, and is said to
be the largest thing of the kind in Great Britain, the
annual amount of cheese exhibited being about 10,000
tons. The sacramental fasts are on the first Thursdays
of May and November. Kilmarnock unites with Dum-
barton, Port Glasgow, Renfrew, and Rutherglen in
sending a member to parliament, and is the returning
burgh. The member has been always Liberal since
1832, except from 1837 to 1841. Parliamentary con-
stituency of Kilmarnock alone (1882-83) 3573, municipal
4194. Valuation, exclusive of railways (1875), £61,847 ;
(1883) £80,843, railways £6538. Pop. of parliamentary
burgh (1841) 19,398, (1851) 21,443, (1861) 22,619, (1871)
22,963, (1881)23,038 ; of police burgh (1881) 25,844, of
whom 13,238 were females. There were in the same
year 5572 houses, and 31 building.

The town is notable in literary history for its con-
nection with the early career of Burns. Several of his
poems refer to matters connected with it or its neigh-
bourhood, and here the first edition of his poems was
I^rinted in 1786, while some of the leading men in or
about the place were his earliest patrons. Kilmarnock
has also been the birthplace of many individuals who
have distinguished themselves in literature, art, or
science, and has connected with it probably more than
the average number of the minor pioets of Scotland. We
may here mention John Goldie (1717-1809), author of
several small theological works that made a noise in
their day ; Gavin Turnbull, a minor poet ; Jean Glover
(1758-1801), authoress of O'er the Muir amang the
Heather; George Campbell (1761-1818), minor poet;
James Thomson (1775-1832), minor poet; John Ken-
nedy (1789-1833), minor poet and miscellaneous writer ;
Archibald M'Kay (1801-83), minor poet and local
historian ; John Ramsay (1802-79), minor poet ; Rev.
Dr Findlay (1721-1814), professor of theology in the
University of Glasgow; James Tannock (1784-1863),
portrait painter ; William Tannock, his brother, also
an artist ; T. Y. M'Christie (1797-1860), revising bar-
rister for the city of London ; F. G. P. Neisson
(d. 1876), a well-known statistical writer ; Alexander

KILMARON CASTLE

Smith (1829-67), poet ; and James B. Reid (1837-63),
artist. See also The Contemporaries of Btiriis aiul the
more recent Poets of Ayrshire (Edinb. 1840); Archibald
M 'Kay's History of Kilmarnock (Kilmarnock, 1848 ; 3d
ed. 1864 ; 4th, 1880) ; James V&terson' s Autobiograjjhical
Reminiscences, including Recollections of the Radical
Years 1819-20 in Kihnarnock {Glasgow, 1871); M'Kay's
Burns and his Kilmarnock Friends (Kilmarnock, 1874) ;
Cunninghame Topographised by Timothy Pont, A.M.,
1604-8, ivith Contimiations and Illustrative Notices by
the late James Dobie of Crummock (1876) ; and chap.
xix. of M'llwraith's History of the Glasgoio and South-
western Railway (Glasgow, 1880).

Kilmaron Castle, a mansion in Cupar parish, Fife,
If mile NW of Cupar town. A splendid edifice, built
after designs by Gillespie Graham, it was the seat of Sir
David Baxter, Bart. (1793-1872), a manufacturer and
munificent benefactor of Dundee, at the death of whose
widow in 1882 the estate — 1201 acres, of £3287 annual
value — went to the Right Hon. W. E. Baxter of KiN-
CALDKXJM. — Ord. Sur., sh. 48, 1868.

Kilmaronock, a parish of E Dumbartonshire, whose
church stands 2 miles WNW of Drymen station on the
Forth and Clyde Junction section of the North British,
this being 3 miles NE of Caldarvan or Kilmaronock
station and 6J ENE of Balloch. Including the islands
of Inchmurrin, Creinch, Torrinch, and Aber, it is
bounded AV and NW by Loch Lomond, NE and E by
Buchanan and Drymen in Stirlingshire, S by Dumbar-
ton, and SW by Bonhill. Its utmost length, from E to
W, is 5| miles ; its utmost breadth, from N to S, is 5J
miles ; and its area is 14, 561 J acres, of which 4236| are
water. Loch Lomond is on the boundary from a point
5 furlongs N of Balloch pier all round to the mouth of
Endrick Water ; Endeick "Water winds 8 miles west-
north-westward along all the north-eastern border ; and
Gallaxgad or Catter Burn, entering from Dumbarton,
flows 3J miles northward through the southern interior,
then 2f miles north-eastward along the boundary with
Drymen, till it falls into Endrick Water near Drymen
station. From Loch Lomond the surface rises south-
eastward to 284 feet near Baturich Castle, 576 at
Mount Misery, 462 at conical Duncryne, and 800 at the
Dumbarton boundary, the southern district, beyond the
Forth and Clyde railway, being mainly a moorish up-
land tract, projected from Dumbarton Muir. The
north-eastern district, along Endrick Water, to a
breadth of from 1 furlong to f mile, is a low, level,
alluvial tract of high fertility, richly embellished with
culture and wood ; and the rest of the land, with ex-
ception of Duncryne and the ridge of Mount Misery, is
all champaign, diversified with heights of from 100 to
300 feet above sea-level, and richly adorned with corn-
fields, woods, and parks. The rocks are partly eruptive,
partly Devonian ; and the soil is various, ranging from
deep alluvium to shallow moor, but most of it very
fertile. About 850 acres are under wood ; fully as
much upland is pastoral ; and the rest of the land is
nearly all arable. Kilmaronock Castle, on the Mains
estate, near the church, would seem to have been a mas-
sive and imposing pile. Mansions are Baturich Castle,
Caldarvan House, Catter House, and Ross Priory ;
and, besides the Duke of Montrose, 3 other proprietors
hold each an annual value of £500 and upwards, 12 of
between £100 and £500, 4 of from £50 to £100, and 4
of from £20 to £50. The original church of Kilmaronock
(Gael. ' church of my little Ronan') was dedicated to St
Ronan, a bishop of Kingarth in Bute, who died in 737 ;
but a neighbouring spring bears the name of ' St Maro-
nock's Well,' and Scott in the Lccdy of tlie Lake calls
Ellen a 'votaress of Maronnan's cell.' In 1325 it was
given by Robert I. to the monks of Cambuskenneth,
and theirs it continued down to the Reformation. Kil-
maronock is in the presbytery of Dumbarton and synod
of Glasgow and Ayr ; the living is worth £353. The
present church was built in 1813, and contains 340
sittings. A U.P. church was rebuilt about 1852; and
two public schools, Ardoch Bridge and Kilmaronock,
with respective accommodation for 80 and 82 children,
61

KILMAURS

had (1881) an average attendance of 33 and 52, and
grants of £28, 16s. and £56, lis. Valuation (1860)
£7232, (1883) £11,309, lis. 3d. Pop. (1801) 879, (1831)
999, (1861) 1085, (1871) 978, (1881) 927.— Orrf. Sur.,
shs. 38, 30, 1871-66.

Kilmartin, a village and a coast parish of Argyll-
shire. The village, on the road from Lochgilphead to
Oban, 3^ miles NNE of Port Crinan and 8 NNW of
Lochgilphead, is situated near the middle of a beautiful
vale which is watered by the rivulet Skeodnish, and
flanked by steep wooded hiUs. Rebuilt on a regular
plan about 1835, it now is one of the neatest and
pleasantest of Highland villages, and chiefly consists of
substantial slated cottages, each with a garden plot.
It has a post ofiice under Lochgilphead, with money
order, savings' bank, and telegraph departments, and
fairs on the first Thursday of March and the fourth
Thursday of November. The parish church is a hand-
some Gothic edifice of 1835, with a square tower and
520 sittings ; in its graveyard is a purely Celtic cross,
5^ feet high, whose ornamentation consists of interlaced
work, divergent spirals, and key patterns or fretwork.
There are also a Free church and St Columba's Epis-
copal church (1854 ; 120 sittings).

The parish, containing also Port Crinan, and in-
cluding the two chief islands in Loch Craignish, with
several other islets, is bounded NW by Craignish, NE
by Kilchrenan and Dalavich, SE by Kilmichael-Glassary,
S by Loch Crinan, which separates it from Knapdale,
and W by Loch Craignish, which separates it from the
Craignish peninsula. Its utmost length, from NE to
SW, is 124 miles ; its utmost breadth is 5| miles ; and
its area is 25,102 acres. Loch Awe, for 4| miles down-
ward from its head, lies on the boundary with Kil-
michael-Glassary ; and the rivulet Skeodnish, rising not
far from the loch's head, and running 6 miles south-
south-westward to Loch Crinan, appears to traverse the
loch's original outlet. The ranges, ridges, and groups of
hill, which occupy most of the interior, are much diversi-
fied with intervening dales and hollows, and exhibit no
little beauty of verdure and copsewood. They rise to
altitudes of from 700 to 1407 feet above sea-level ; and
include several summits which command extensive and
very brilliant views. The vale of the Skeodnish is
overhung by the hills in the N, and partly flanked by
those in the S ; has, for some distance from its head,
a narrow and winding character, but expands afterwards
into a level plain, partly extending along the south-
eastern boundary ; and, viewed as a whole, is one of
the loveliest valleys in the Highlands. A series of
broad terraces, rising 50 to 60 feet above the bottom
level, and mostly composed of gravel and small boulders,
is in the upper part of the vale, principally on the W
side ; and an extensive peat moss, reaching partly into
Kilmichael-Glassarj-, and long under a course of drainage,
lies on the SE border. The predominant rocks are
metamorphic, and include chlorite, mica, clay, and
hornblende slates. The soil of the strath is fairly good,
a mixture of many kinds, and generally is very various,
ranging from alluviimi to moor. Barely one-seventh of
the entire area is in tillage ; 1215 acres are under wood ;
and nearly all the remainder is either pastoral or waste.
The ruins of Kilmartin Castle, the ancient residence of
the rectors of Kilmartin, crown a bank immediately N
of the village ; other antiquities being the ruins of
Carnassary Castle and a number of large cairns in
the valley and on the hills. Duntroon Castle is the
chief mansion ; and 2 proprietors hold each an annual
value of more, 5 of less, than £500. Kilmartin is in
the presbytery of Inveraray and synod of Argyll ; the
living is worth £230. A public school, with accom-
modation for 160 children, had (1881) an average attend-
ance of 87, and a grant of £74, lis. Valuation (1860)
£6384, (1883) £7865, 5s. 6d. Pop. (1801) 1501, (1831)
1475, (1861) 949, (1871) 869, (1881) 811, of whom 647
were Gaelic-speaking.

Kilmaurs, a small town and a parish in Cunninghame
district, Ayrshire. The town stands, 200 feet above sea-
level, on the right bank of Carmel Water, and has a

377

KILMAURS

KILMICHAEL-GLASSARY

station on the Glasgow, Barrhead, and Kilmarnock
Joint railwaj-, 2^ miles XNAV of Kilmarnock. It sprang
from the ancient hamlet of Cunninghame, which took
the name of Kilmaurs in the 13th centur}- from a church
dedicated either to the Tirgin Mary or to a Scottish
saint called Maure, who is said to have. died in 899, and
it occupies a pleasant site on a gentle northward ascent,
and chiefly consists of one main street, with some lanes
and houses behind. It adjoins an old mansion, the
Place, which, long a seat of the Earls of Glexcairx,
was inhabited in the latter part of last century by the
Countess of Eglinton ; and a neighbouring farm, Jock's
Thorn, contains vestiges of the original or more ancient
residence of the Gleucairn family, to whom Kilmaurs
gave the title of Baron both while they were Earls of
Gleucairn and for 53 years earlier. In 1527 it was
made a burgh of barony at the instance of Cuthbert,
Earl of Gleucairn, and his son William, Lord Kilmaurs,
enjoyed, under its charter, some peculiar privileges
which have gradually dwindled away into insignificance ;
and in connection therewith long figured as a consider-
able market town and as an influential seat of popula-
tion, before Kilmarnock had risen into note. It was
also distinguished for the manufacture of cutlery, said
to have equalled or surpassed the modern produce of
Sheflield and Birmingham, and so famous for keenness
of edge as to give i^ise to a provincial proverb, ' As gleg
as a Kilmaurs whittle.' Now its inhabitants are for the
most part employed in shoe and bonnet factories and
in the neighbouring coal and iron mines ; and it has
a post oflEice, with money order, savings' bank, and tele-
graph departments, 2 inns, gasworks, a small town hall
with a steeple, and fairs on the second Wednesday of
June 0. s. and 11 Nov. The parish church, originally
collegiate for a provost and 6 prebendaries, is said to
have been built in 140-1, and contains 500 sittings. The
Free church was built soon after the Disruption ; and
the U.P. church, rebuilt in 186«t, contains 400 sit-
tings. The bm'ial aisle of the Earls of Gleucairn,
adjacent to the parish church, was erected by the
seventh Earl in 1600, and contains a beautiful but
defaced cenotaph of William, ninth Earl, the Lord
High Chancellor of Scotland, who in 1664 was buried
in St Giles, Edinbm-gh. Pop. (1851) 1083, (1861) 1174,
(1871) 1145, (1881) 1203.

The parish, containing also the villages of Crosshouse
and Gatehead, is bounded W and N by Dreghorn, E
and SE by Kilmarnock, and S and SW by Duudonald.
Its utmost length, from NE to SW, is 6 miles ; its
utmost breadth is 2| miles ; and its area is 5940 acres,
of which 40s ^^re water. The river Irvine winds 4^
miles west-north-westward along all the Dundonald
border ; Carrier Burn, running 6^ miles south-west-
ward, and Carmel Water, running 41 fmiongs westward
to the Irvine, trace nearly all the boundary with Dreg-
horn ; and, higher up, Cahmel Water, coming in from
the NW corner of Kilmarnock parish, and here very
often called Kilmaurs Water, flows 5 miles south-west-
ward through the interior, cutting it into two nearly equal
parts. Sinking at the south-western corner to 45 feet
above sea -level, the surface thence rises gently north-
eastward to 208 at Fardalehill, 216 near Busbiehead,
and 308 at Newland — vantage grounds that command
delightful prospects over Cunninghame and Kyle, and
across the Firth of Clyde to the Arran and Argyllshire
mountains. The rocks are carboniferous ; coal and iron
are largely worked ; and the soil, for the most jiart, is
deep, strong, and of high fertility. Scarcely an acre
of land is unproductive ; and the beauty of the parish
is greatly enhanced by clumps of wood. Agriculture
has undergone vast improvement, and the dairy hus-
bandry is eminently excellent. The chief antiquity is
Busbie Castle, on the Carmel's right bank, J mile NE
of Crosshouse. Mansions are Craig, Knockentiber,
Thornton, Tour, and Towerhill ; and 8 proprietors hold
each an annual value of more, 10 of less, than £500.
Since 1882 giving off its western half to the q. s. parish of
CiiOSSHOU.SE, Kilmaurs is in the presbytery of Irvine and
.synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; the living is worth £480.
378

Two public schools, Crosshouse and Irvine Vennel, with
respective accommodation for 450 and 290 children, had
(1881) an average attendance of 311 and 215, and grants
of £262, 17s. and £93, 9s. Valuation (1S60) £17,676,
(1883) £22,494, 10s., phis £5211 for railways. Pop.
(1801) 1288, (1831) 2130, (1861) 3526, (1871) 3449, (1881)
3704, of whom 1653 are in the ecclesiastical parish. —
Orel. Sur., sh. 22, 1865.

Kilmelfort, a hamlet in Kilninver parish, Lorn dis-
trict, Argyllshire, at the head of Loch Melfort, 15^
miles S of Oban aud 14 N of Kilmartin. It has a post
office under Lochgilphead, with money order and
savings' bank departments. See Kilxixver.

Kilmeny, an ancient parish in Islay island, Argyll-
shire, whose church stands 4 miles SSW of Port
Askaig. It is now incorporated quoad civilia with
Killarrow parish, but was constituted quoad sacra a
separate parish, first by ecclesiastical authority in 1826,
next by civil authoritj' in 1849. It is in the presbytery
of Islay and Jura and synod of Argyll ; the stipend is
£171. Pop. (1871) 924, (1881) 881.

Kilmichael, an estate, with an old mansion, in Glen
cloy, Arran island, Buteshire, li mile SSW of Brodick.
In 1307 the estate was given by King Kobert I. to an
ancestor of the FuUarton family, called MacLewie or
MacLewis ; and it gave his name in the modified form
of cloy to the glen. The present proprietor. Miss
Fullarton, owns 3632 acres, valued at £622 per annum,
and holds the hereditary oflice of coroner of Arran. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 21, 1870.

Kilmichael. See Campbeltown.

Kilmichael-GlassEiry or Glassary, a village and a
parish in Argyll district, Argyllshire. The village
stands, 50 feet above sea-level, on the right bank of the
Add, 4 miles N bj' W of Lochgilphead, under which it
has a post oflice. Once a place of some little note, as
seat of the baron-bailie courts of the Campbells of Ach-
nabreck, it has dwindled down to a mere church hamlet,
but retains two cattle fairs on the last Wednesday of
May and the Tuesday before the last Wednesday of
October.

The parish, containing also the town of Lochgilp-
head, the hamlet of Lochgair, and part of the village
of FoRD-LocHAWE, is bounded NW by Kilmartin and
the upper 5| miles of Loch Awe, NE by Kilchrenan-
Dalavich and Inveraray, SE and S by Loch Fyne, and
SW and W by South Knapdale, North Knapdale, and
Kilmartin. Its utmost length, from NNE to SSW, is
15f miles ; its utmost width is 8J miles ; and its area
is 94 square miles or 60,229 acres. The river Add,
formed by two head-streams at an altitude of 600
feet above sea-level, and winding south-westward across
the parish on its way to inner Loch Crinan, is the
principal stream ; and of numerous fresh-water lakes
the larger are Loch Ederlixe (4 x 2J furl. ; 122 feet)
on the Kilmartin border, Loch Leacann (7x3 furl. ; 1020
feet) on the Inveraray border, and Fincharn Loch (5 x J
furl. ; 900 feet). Loch Gaineamhach (9 x If furl. ; 856 feet),
Loch Leathan (4| x 2 furl. ; 240 feet), and Loch Glashan
(IJ X 4 mile ; 347 feet) in the interior. From the shores
of Loch FjTie to those of Loch Awe extends a wide
desolate tract of hill and moss, which, including much
bleak pasture, wild moorland, and irreclaimable waste,
attains 1030 feet near Loch an Dubh, 704 near Craig-
murrail, 772 at Dun Alva, 1377 at Beinn Ghlas, 1421
at Beinn Laoigh, and 1504 at Cruach Mhic Chaolie.
The predominant rocks are mica slate, clay slate, and
chlorite slate. Porphyry protrudes through the clay
slates at Cumlodden in masses 700 to 800 feet high, and
extends over a tract of several miles ; limestone, too, is
plentifully interspersed through the slates ; and granite
aud porphyry boulders are scattered over the hills.
Nearly fifty years since a copper mine was opened unsuc-
cessfully on Brainchaoille farm. The soil along Loch
Fyne is gravelly, but to the SW and along Loch Awe is
mostly a deep dark fertile loam. Peat occurs in every
j)art, and at every elevation. Antiquities are the ruins
of FioxxcHARN Castle on Loch Awe, of four hill-forts,
and of foui" pre-Reformation chapels — Kilbride in the

KILMILIEU

KILMONIVAIG

W end of the parish, Kilmory near Lochgilphead, Kil-
levin on Loch Fyne, and Kiliieuair on Loch Awe. Kir-
nan, If mile NNE of the village, was the home of the
forefathers of Campbell, the poet, and is mournfully
celebrated in his ' Lines on visiting a Scene in Argyll-
shire.' The mansions are Kilmory House, Castleton,
Ederline House, Lochgair House, and Minard Castle ;
and 6 proprietors hold each an annual value of £500
and upwards, 8 of between £100 and £.500, 7 of from
£50 to £100, and 29 of from £20 to £50. Giving off
portions to Lochgilphead and Cvmlobd'e^ quoad sacra
parishes, Kilmichael-Glassary is in the presbytery of In-
veraray and s}' nod of Argyll ; the living is worth £375.
The parish church, with 1300 sittings, was built in
1827, and, much injured by lightning in 1830, was
afterwards repaired and improved. In 1873 it was
taken down and rebuilt by the heritors on a scale
better suited to the population, being now seated for
300. There are also a chapel of ease at Lochgair
and a Free church at Minard ; and four public schools
— Ford, Glassary, Lochgair, and Minard — with respective
accommodation for 60, 100, 60, and 98 children, had
(1881) an average attendance of 36, 81, 37, and 66, and
grants of £46, 8s., £83, 14s. 6d., £39, 13s., and £50,
10s. Valuation (1860) £14,449, (1883) £19,709. Pop.
(1801) 3293, (1831) 4054, (1861) 4473, (1871) 4393, (1881)
4348, of whom 2991 were Gaelic-speaking, and 1486
belonged to Kilmicliael-Glassary ecclesiastical parish. —
Orel. Sur., shs. 37, 29, 36, 1873-83.

Kilmilieu. See Inveraray.

Kilminster, a hamlet in Wick parish, Caithness, 5
miles NW of Wick town. To the SW lie the Loch of
Kilminster (2J x 2 furl. ; 45 feet above sea-level) and
Kilminster Moss, which measures about 2 miles square,
and is many feet deep. — Ord. Sur., sh. 116, 1878.

Kilmodan, a parish in Cowal district, Argyllshire,
containing the Clachan of Glendaruel, which, standing
on the left bank of the Ruel, 17 miles NNE of Rothesay
and 6 E of Otter Ferry, has a post office under Greenock,
an inn, and the parish church. It is bounded NE by
Strachur, E by Kilmun and Inverchaolain, S by Inver-
chaolain and Loch Riddon, SW and W by Kilfinan, and
NW by Stralachlan. Its utmost length, from NNE to
SSW, is 13^ miles ; its utmost width, from E to W, is
4f miles ; and its area is 25, 838| acres, of which
307* are foreshore and 123 water. The Ruel, formed
by two head-streams at an altitude of 90 feet above
sea-level, winds lOJ miles south-by-westward down
a beautiful narrow glen till it falls into the head of
salt-water Loch Riddon ; just above its mouth it is
joined by Tamhnich Burn, which, after tracing 3 miles
of the eastern boundary, flows 1§ mile west-south-west-
ward through the interior. The surface is mostly
occupied by heathy hills, chief elevations from S to N
being Cnoc nan Darach (1184 feet), Cruach nam Mull
(1069), Cruach nam Gearran (1230), Cruach Chuil-
ceachan (1428), *An Socach (1345), *Creag Tharsuinn
(2111), and Cruach an Lochain (1658), where asterisks
mark those summits that culminate on the eastern and
north-western borders. Mica slate is the predominant
rock, though limestone also abounds ; and the soil along
the bottom of Glendaruel is a deep and fertile alluvium.
Rather more than one-sixteenth of the entire area is in
tillage ; 1130 acres are under wood ; and the I'est is most
of it moorland pasture. Colin Maclaurin (1698-1746), the
eminent mathematician, was a son of the parish minister.
Antiquities are Caledonian cairns and traces of Scandi-
navian fortalices. Glendaruel House, Dunans, and
Ohmidale, all noticed separately, are the chief residences ;
and the property is mostly divided among six. Kil-
modan is in the presbytery of Dunoon and synod of
Argyll ; the living is worth £237. The parish church
is a sufficiently commodious edifice. A Free church
stands 7 furlongs NNE ; and two public schools, Kil-
modan and Stronafian, with respective accommodation
for 40 and 60 children, had (1881) an average attend-
ance of 16 and 24, and grants of £29, 13s. and £32, lis.
Valuation (1860) £3604, (1883) £4788, 10s. Fop. (1801)
502, (1831) 648, (1861) 433, (1871) 358, (1881) 323, of

whom 229 were Gaelic-speaking. — Ord. Sur., shs. 29,
37, 1873-76.

Kilmonivaig, a large Highland parish of SW Inver-
ness-shire, containing the hamlets of Spean Bridge or
Unachan, 9j miles NE of Fort AVilliam, with a post
and telegi'aph office ; Bridge of Roy or Bunroy, 3 miles
E of Sjiean Bridge, with a post office under Fort Wil-
liam ; and Invergarry, 7i miles SW of Fort Augustus,
with a post and telegraph office. It is bounded N by
Glenshiel in Ross-shire and by Urquhart-Glenmoriston,
NE by Boleskine-Abertarff, E by Laggan, SE by For-
tingall in Perthshire, S by Lismore-Appin in Argyll-
shire, and W by Kilmallie and Glenelg. Its utmost
length, from NW to SE, is 40| miles ; its utmost
breadth is 23 miles ; and its area is 432g square miles
or 276,673i acres, of which 44^ are foreshore, 26i tidal
water, and 9531f water, it thus being larger than Mid-
lothian and t6n other Scotch counties, or only 6745 acres
smaller than Kilmallie. The QuoiCH, rising in the
extreme NW at an altitude of 2500 feet above sea-level,
runs 8 miles south-eastward and southward to the
middle of Loch Quoich (5J miles x f mile ; 555 feet),
which extends along the Kilmallie boundary, and out
of which the Garry flows 18g miles eastward, through
Loch Garry (4i miles x h mile ; 258 feet), to the middle
of Loch Oich. From Loch OiCH (d^ miles x 1 to 2 J
furl. ; 105 feet), whose foot falls just within Boleskine-
Abertarff, the Caledoxiax Canal goes If mile south-
south-westward to Loch LocHY (9§ miles x 1 to 9f furl. ;
93 feet), and out of Loch Lochy the river Lochy winds
9| miles south-south-westward along the Kilmallie bor-
der, till it falls near Fort William into the head of salt-
water Loch Linnhe. The Spean, from a point 1^ mile
below its efflux from Loch Laggan (819 feet), winds 19^
miles westward to the Lochy, 3 furlongs below the
latter's exit from Loch Lochy : and the Spean itself is
fed by the Gulbin, running 10| miles northward out of
Loch Ossian (3:^ miles x 3 furl. ; 1269 feet), and through
Loch Gulbin (7 x 3i furl. ; 1150 feet) ; by the Treig,
running 2g miles north-by-eastward out of Loch Treig
(5J miles x 1 to 5^ furl. ; 784 feet) ; and by tlie Roy,
running 14:| miles south-westward. The surface is
everywhere hilly or grandly mountainous, chief eleva-
tions to the W of the Caledonian Canal being Beinn
Tee (2956 feet), Sron a' Choire Ghairbh (3066), and
Gleourach (3395) ; to the E, *Carn Leac (2889), *Creag
Meaghaidh (3700), Beinn Eithinn (3611), Cnoc Dearg
(3433), Stob Choire an Easain Mhoir (3658), *Aonach
Beag (4080), and huge *Ben Nevis (4406), where
asterisks mark those summits that culminate on the
confines of the parish. Such is a bare outline of
the general features of this vast parish, fuller details
as to whose scenery, mansions, antiquities, and his-
tory are furnished under Glenfintaig, Glengarry,
Glengloy, Glengulbin, Glenmore - NAN - Albin,
Glenroy, Glenspean, Invergarry, Inverlochy
Castle, and Lochaber. The rocks are mainly mica
slate and gneiss, but include some fine-grained red
granite and brown porphyry. Sheep-farming constitutes
the staple employment ; but 2 miles NE of Fort William
is the famous Ben Nevis Distillery. Three battles have
been fought within this parish — the ' Battle of the
Shirts,' on 3 July 1544, between the Clan Ranald and
the Erasers, when 300 of the latter were slain, along
with Lord Lovat and his eldest son ; the Battle of
Inverlochy, on 2 Feb. 1645, in which Montrose's small
Royalist armysurprised and routed Argyll's Covenanters ;
and the ' last considerable clan battle which was fought
in Scotland,' during Charles II. 's reign, when at Mulroy
the Mackintoshes were worsted by the Llacdonalds of
Keppoch. John Macdonald or Ian Lom, a Gaelic
Jacobite poet of the latter half of the 17th century, was a
native ; and his songs had no little effect towards making
Kilmonivaig the 'cradle of the rebellion of '45.' Six
proprietors hold each an annual value of more than
£500, and 2 of less than £100. Giving otf the greater
portion oi Glesgaiiuy quoad sacra parish, Kilmonivaig
is in the presbytery of Abcrtarff and synod of Argyll ;
the living is worth £400. The parish church, near

379

KILMORACK

Spean Bridge, was built about 1812, and contains 300
sittings. A Free church stands 2| miles WNW of
Spean Bridge ; and at Bunroy is a Eoman Catholic
church (1826 ; 350 sittings). Four public schools —
Blarour, Kilmonivaig, Roy Bridge, and Tomcharich —
with respective accommodation for 90, 99, 80, and 30
children, are, all but the second, of recent erection ; and
the three last in 1881 had an average attendance of 46,
43, and 23, and grants of £71, 15s., £51, 13s. 6d., and
£21, 19s. 6d. Valuation (1S60) £14,627, (1881) £21,553.
Pop. (1801) 2541, (1831) 2869, (1861) 2276, (1871) 1967,
(1881) 1928, of whom 1567 were Gaelic-speaking, and
1375 belonged to Kilmonivaig ecclesiastical parish. —
Orel. Sur., shs. 62, 63, 53, 54, 72, 73, 1873-80.

Kilmorack (anciently Kilmoricht, Kilmorok, and
Kilmarak ; Gael. Kil Morok or Moroc, ' the church of
St Moroc '), a large parish with a hamlet of the same
name in the extreme N" of Inverness-shire. The
hamlet lies about 3 miles WSW of the village and
railway station of Beauly, under which it has a sub-
post office. The parish is bounded N by Ross-shire,
NE by Urray, SE by Kirkhill, by Kiltarlity and
Convinth, and by Urquhart and Glenmoriston, S by
Urtjuhart and Glenmoriston, and by Ross-shire, and
W by Ross-shire. Along the SE the boundary is
mostly formed by the river Beauly ; elsewhere the line
follows the watershed round the head of Strathaffric,
Glen Cannich, and Strathfarrer. Three furlongs to the
NE of the main portion of the parish is a detached part
measuring in a line NE from Muir of Ord station 2g
miles ami \ mile wide. The greatest length, from NE
to SW, is 36:1 miles, and its greatest breadth 13 miles.
The land area is 142,909 acres, but of this only some
4000 acres are arable, the rest being under wood, rough
hill pasture, moorland, or waste. The soil in the flat
about Beauly is a strong heavy clay ; elsewhere in the
cultivated districts it is a light stony loam passing into
sand and gravel. The underlying rocks are gneiss and
Old Eed sandstone, the latter of which is quarried.
An effort was made many years ago at the lower end of
Strathfarrer to work a vein of graphite in heavy spar
traversing gneiss, but it was given up. The drainage
of the upper portion of the parish is carried off by the
Farrer, Cannich, and Affrick, which unite to form the
river Beauly, and by it and the burns flowing into it
the whole of the rainfall is carried off. The surface
about Beauly is flat, but elsewhere it is rough and
rugged, especially on the SW and W, where, along
the borders of the county, it reaches a height of over
3000 feet at the line of heights mentioned in the article
Inverness-shire. The parish is traversed by the main
road from Inverness to Dingwall, which passes through
Beauly, and from this there is a road along the left side
of the Beauly towards Strathglass and the upper dis-
ti'icts. The Inverness and Dingwall section of the
Highland railway system passes for If mile through
the NE corner of the parish, J W of Beauly, and
again for IJ through the detached portion of the parish,
quitting it in the extreme N at Muir of Ord station.
The scenery of the upper portions of the parish is noted
for its wild and picturesque lieauty, and attracts to
Beauly and thence to Stratliafl'ric, Glen Cannich,
Strathfarrer, and Strathglass a large number of summer
visitors and tourists. Portions of it are referred to
under the DiiRUiM, Erchless Castle, Aigas, the
Glass, the Farrer, the Cannich, and the Affrick.
The falls of Kilmorack are on the river Beauly, 2^
miles SW of the village. They occur between Kil-
morack hamlet on the N bank and the ruined church
and burying-ground of Kiltarlity on the S bank of the
river, and are remarkable not so much for their heiglit
as for their breadth and volume. For fully half a mile
above the lower fall the river has cut a deej) and narrow
channel through Old Bed sandstone conglomerate, and
at the bottom of this it toils in a series of rapids alter-
nating with sullen, deej) brown pools full of mysterious
eddies. At one place the opening is very narrow, and
the water has a sheer fall of some 15 feet, which is
known as the upper fall. Immediately below this
380

KILMORE AND KILBRIDE

narrow rocky channel the banks suddenly expand inta
a wide semicircular basin, through which the river
slowly glides till, at the lower edge, it falls over a
series of low rocky shelves in miniature cascades, boil-
ing and fretting upon the uneven bed as it rushes on-
ward. The tops of the rocky banks of both sides are
covered with birch and pine trees. The best points of
view are from a summerhouse in the minister's garden
on the N bank and from the walk along the S bank
within the policies of Beaufort Castle, to which a bridge
immediately below the falls crosses. The chief seats
are Erchless Castle, Fasnakyle, and Eilan Aigas, which
are separately noticed, and the principal antiquities
are some ancient stone circles and pillars, hill forts,
Erchless Castle, and the ruins of Beauly Priory. Be-
sides the hamlet of Kilmorack, the parish contains also
the village of Beauly, of which mention is made as
early as 1562, but the modern village seems to be on a
diff"erent site. The parish, which is in the presbytery
of Dingwall and the synod of Ross, is of some antiquity,
as there was a ' vicar of Kilmorok ' in 1437. The lands
of the Kirktown of ' Kilmoricht' were in 1521 granted
by Robert, Bishop of Ross, to Thomas Fraser of Lovat.
The patron saint was St ]\Ioroc, Culdee abbot of
Dunkeld, whose day was 8 Nov. The parish chui-ch,
on the bank of the river Beauly close to the falls, was
built in 1786, and repaired in 1835. It contains 630
sittings, and seems to occupy the site of an older
church. The stipend is £281, lis. 8d. with £8, 6s. 8d.
for communion elements, and a manse and glebe worth
respectively £30 and £12 a year. At Guisachan there
is a Royal Bounty Mission station. The Free church of
Kilmorack is in Beauly, and there is also a Roman
Catholic church, with 350 sittings, in Beauly. Beauly
public, Cannich Bridge public, Teanassie public, Beauly
Koraan Catholic, and Marydale Roman Catholic schools,
with accommodation for respectively 250, 60, 80, 90,
and 68 children, had (1881) an average attendance of
144, 18, 55, 30, and 22, and grants of £119, 17s.,
£10, 8s., £53, 14s. 6d., £23, 12s., and £19, 5s. The
principal landowners are Lord Lovat and Chisholm of
Chi.sholm ; one other proprietor holds an annual value
of more than £500 ; another holds between £500 and
£100 ; 4 hold between £100 and £50 ; and there are a
number of smaller amount. Valuation (1860) £11,139,
(1882) £20,950, 10s. 7d. Pop. (1801) 2366, (1831) 2709,
(1861) 2852, (1871) 2728, (1881) 2618, of whom 2024 Avere
Gaelic-speaking.— Orf?. Sur., shs. 83, 82, 72, 73, 1878-82.

Kilmore. See Kilninian and Kilmore.

Kilmore and Kilbride, a united maritime parish of
Lorn, Argyllshire, containing the town of Oban, and
comprehending the island of Kerrera. It is bounded N
by the entrance to Loch Etive, E by the Muckairn
portion of Ardchattan, SE by Kilchrenan, S by Kil-
ninver and Loch Feachan, and AV by the Firth of
Lorn. Its utmost length, from NNE to SSW, is 8|
miles ; its width varies between 9 furlongs and 9f miles ;
and its area is 46 square miles or 29,500 acres. The
coast, indented by Dunstatfnage, Ganavan, and Oban
Bays, is generally bold and rocky ; and the interior is
hilly, chief elevations from N to S being Ganavan Hill
(235 feet), Tom Ard (412), Cnoc Mor (500), Cruach
Lerags (827), Tom na Buachaille (688), Sron ilhor
(651), Torr Dhamh (961), and Beinn Dears: (1583).
Troutful Loch Nell (Ig mile x 3 furl ; 48 feet) is the
largest of thirteen fresh-water lakes, and sends oft" a
stream 2 miles south-south-westward to the head of
Loch Feachan. The rocks include slate and sandstone,
both of which have been quarried ; and the soil of the
arable lands is generally light and sandy. Sheep and
dairy farming is the leading industry. A ' serpent
mound,' near Loch Nell, was explored by Mr J. S,
Phene, F.S.A., in 1872, when a megalithic chamber in
the cairn at its W extremity was found to contain
charred bones, stone impluiuents, etc. Other h'atures
of interest are noticed separately under Connel Fkuuy,
Dog's Stone, Dunolly, Dunstaffnage, and other
articles already indicated. Nine projirietors hold each
an annual value of £500 and ujiwards, 23 of bctweea

KILMORICH

£100 and £500, 20 of from £50 to £100, and 41 of from
£20 to £50. In the presbytery of Lorn and synod of
Argyll, this parish is divided ecclesiastically into Kil-
more, Oban, and St Columba's, the first a living worth
£369. Kilmore church, 4^ miles SSE of Oban, was
built in the latter half of the 15th century, and contains
350 sittings ; Kilbride church, 3 miles S of Oban, was
built in 1740, and contains 300. Close to the S wall of
the latter church lie fragments of a very beautiful West
Highland cross, 11^ feet high, which was erected by
Archibald Campbell of Laerraig in 1516, and is unique
in bearing a coat of arms. Two public schools, Kerrera
and Kenmore, each with accommodation for 60 children,
had (1881) an average attendance of 12 and 49, and
grants of £22, 12s. and £62, 8s. 6d. Valuation (1880)
£10,566, 2s. lid., (1883) £11,152, 7s. 8d. Pop. (1801)
1854, (1831) 2836, (1861) 2962, (1871) 3402, (1881) 5142,
of whom 2816 were Gaelic-speaking, whilst 629 were in
Kilmore, 3153 in Oban, and 1360 in St Columba's,
ecclesiastical parish. — Ord. Sur., .shs. 45, 44, 1876-83.

Kilmorich, an ancient parish in Cowal district, Argyll-
shire, now incorporated ^vith Lochgoilhead parish. Its
church (800 sittings) is still in use, and stands at Cairn-
dow, 9| miles NE of Inveraray.

Kilmorie. See Craignish.

Kilmorie, an ancient chapelry in South Knapdale
parish, Argyllshire. Its burying-ground and the ruins
of its church still exist, on the shore midway between
Lochs Swin and Killisport ; and the burying-ground
contains a beautiful obelisk ; while the ruins of the
■church comprise almost the entire walls, and show the
building to have been comparatively large.

Kilmorie, the Jamiesons' ancient castle in Rothesay
parish, Buteshire, on the W coast of Bute island, oppo-
site Inchmarnock. Its towers and other buildings are
now an utter ruin.

Kilmory, an ancient chapelry and an estate in Kil-
michael-Glassary parish, Argyllshire. The chapel stood
near the E shore of Loch Gilp ; its foundations con-
tinued visible till the early part of the present century ;
and the graveyard is still used by the country people
as a burying-ground. The mansion on the estate, near
the site of the church, | mile SSE of Lochgilphead, is
said to date from the 14th century, but has been re-
peatedly renovated, enlarged, and beautified in the pre-
sent century. Its principal feature is a large octagonal
tower, commanding an exquisite view of great part of
Loch Fyne and of distant sky-lines from the mountains
of Arran to those of Mull. Acquired by his father in
1828, the estate — 3094 acres of £1218 annual value — is
now held by Sir John William Powlett Orde, third Bart,
since 1790 (b. 1827; sue. 1878).— Ord Sur., sh. 29,
1873.

Kilmory, a parish comprising the W and S sides of
the Isle of Arran, Buteshire, and including the island
of Pladda. Bounded NW and W by Kilbrannan
Sound, S by the Firth of Clyde, and E by Kilbride, it
has an utmost length from N by W to S by E of 19§
miles, an utmost breadth from E to W of 7| miles,
and an area of 67,099 acres. The coast-line in Arran
extends from the mouth of Loch Ranza, all round the
W, the S, and the SE, to Dippin Head ; and the interior
line of boundary is principally the watershed of the
island. The coast, the surface, and the chief features,
natural or artificial, have all been noticed in our article
on Arran, and in other ai-ticles which are there referred
to. Rather less than one-eleventh of the entire area is
in tillage, and nearly all the remainder is either pastoral
or waste. Agriculture is the staple industry. The
Duke of Hamilton is almost the sole proprietor, 1 other
holding an annual value of less than £500. Kilmory
is in the presbytery of Kintyre and synod of Argyll ;
the living is worth £341. The parish church stands 7
furlongs N of the southern shore of the island, and
10 miles SW of Lamlash, under which there is a post
office of Kilmory. It was built in 1785, and in 1881
was stripped and handsomely renovated at the cost of
the Duke of Hamilton. There are also Free churches
of Kilmory, Lochranza, and Shiskan ; and Kilmory,

KILMUIR-EASTER

Little Mill, Lochranza, Penrioch, Shiskan, Sliddery,
and Dongarie schools, all of them public but the last,
with total accommodation for 538 children, had (1881)
an average attendance of 268, and grants amounting
to £297, 5s. 5d. Valuation (1860) £7729, (1883)
£10,959. Pop. (1801) 2296, (1831) 3771, (1861) 3151,
(1871) 2879, (1881) 2586, of whom 1909 were Gaelic-
speaking.— 0/-f?. Sur., shs. 13, 21, 1870.

Kilmster. See Kilminster.

Kilmuir, a hamlet and a parish in Skye district,
Inverness-shire. The hamlet lies on the NW coast of
the Isle of Skye, 4 miles N of Uig, and 20 NNW of
Portree, under which it has a post office. The parisli
church here, built in 1810, contains 700 sittings. In
the churchyard is the grave of Flora Macdonald (1721-90),
the guide and protectress of Prince Charles Edward after
the '45, with an lona cross of Aberdeen granite, 28^
feet high, erected in 1880 to replace one of 1871, which
was blown down and broken by a gale of Dec. 1873.

The jjarish, containing also the hamlet of Staffins,
wiXh another post office under Portree, comprises the
ancient parishes of Kilmuir, Kilmaluig, and Kilmartin,
and comprehends the northern and north-eastern por-
tions of Trotternish peninsula, with the islets of lasgair,
Altavaig, Fladda, Fladdachuain, Tulm, andTrodda. It
is bounded N and E by the sea, S by Portree, and W
by Snizort. Its utmost length, from NNW to SSE,
exclusive of the islets, is 15 miles ; its utmost breadth
is 6 miles; and its area is 35,035 acres, of which 409
are foreshore and 210 water. The several islets, and
the principal features and objects of the mainland
districts are separately noticed ; and a general view
of the coasts and of the interior is given in our
articles on Skye and Trotternish. The parish is
divided into the three districts of Kilmuir proper,
Kilmaluig, and Stenscholl. The best lands form
the largest continuous cultivated tract in Skye, called
the Plain of Kilmuir ; the next best lands are con-
geries of little hills, principally green, many of them
isolated, with small intervening glens, traversed by
brooks or occujiied by lakes ; and the other lauds, com-
prising the central tracts southward to the boundaries
with Portree and Snizort, include the lofty precipitous
hill embosoming Quiraing, and the northern parts of
the craggy, shattered, pinnacled mountain of Storr.
Less than one-sixth of the entire area is in tillage, the
rest being either meadow-land, hill pasture, or waste.
The principal antiquities, besides Duntulm Castle, are
vestiges of cairns, remnants of Caledonian stone circles,
6 dunes or Scandinavian forts, and ruins or traces of
several pre-Reformation chapels. William Eraser, Esq.
of Kilmuir, is almost sole proprietor. Including almost
all Stenscholl quoad sacra parish, Kilmuir is in the pres-
bytery of Skye and synod of Glenelg ; the living is worth
£190. A Free Church charge, with two places of wor-
ship, is ill Kilmuir civil parish ; and two public schools,
Kilmuir and Kilmaluig, with respective accommodation
for 125 and 85 children, had (1881) an average attend-
ance of 49 and 59, and grants of £28, 3s. and £30,
16s. 6d. Valuation (1860) £3494, (1882) £6175. Pop.
(1801) 2555, (1841) 3625, (1861) 2846, (1871) 2567, (1881)
2562, of whom 2521 were Gaelic-speaking, and 1265 were
in Kilmuir ecclesiastical parish.

Kilmuir, a hamlet in Knockbain or Kilmuir- Wester
parish, SE Ross-shire, on the Moray Firth, 2 miles NNE
of Kessock Ferry and 3 N by E of Inverness. See
Knockbain.

Kilmuir-Easter, a coast parish of NE Ross and
Cromarty, containing Delny and Kildary stations on
the Highland railway, 3§ and 5| miles NE of Inver-
gordon. Within it are also the coast village of Bar-
baraville, 2^ furlongs SSE of Delny station ; Balin-
TRAID Pier, 1^ mile SSW of Delny station ; and Park-
hill post office, near Kildary station, with money order,
savings' bank, and telegraph departments. It is
bounded N by Edderton and Logie-Easter, NE by
Logie-Easter, SE by Nigg Bay and the Cromarty Firth,
and SW and W by Rosskeen. Its utmost length, from
NW to SE, is 7^ miles ; its width varies between 5

381

KILMUN

KILNINVER

furlongs and 3| miles; and its area is 10,999 acres.
The shore, 4J miles in extent, is low and flat, fringed
at low water by the broad Sands of Nigg ; and inland
the surface for from 1^ to 2 miles at no point exceeds
200 feet above sea-level, but beyond it rises to 1000 feet
at *Kinrive Hill, 1301 at *Cnoc Corr Guinie, and 979 at
Druim na Gaoithe, where asterislcs mark two summits
that culminate on the SW border. The only stream of
any consequence is the Strathrory or Balnagowan river,
entering from Rosskeen, and winding lOf miles east-
south-eastward, till it falls into Nigg 13ay, f mile ESE
of Tarbat House. Sandstone, underlying the lower
district, includes a fine white variety, which resembles
the Craigleith stone near Edinburgh, and has been
worked at Kinrive ; whilst a reddish inferior sort has
also been quarried in several places. The soil is
generalh'^ light but fertile along the seaboard, highly
improved by art since 1S50 ; on the hills it grows
poorer and poorer, till at last it passes into barren moor.
All the lower grounds, as far as Kinrive Hill, are beauti-
fully wooded. New Tarbat and Delny were once the
seats of the Earls of Cromarty and of Ross ; on Kinrive
Hill are two cairns and the site of a stone circle.
Mansions, noticed separately, are Balnagowan, Kin-
DEAGE, and Tarbat ; and 5 proprietors hold each an
annual value of more, 1 of less, than £500. Kilmuir-
Easter is in the presbytery of Tain and synod of Ross ;
the living is worth £295. The parish church, 9 fur-
longs NE of Delny and 9 SW of Kildary station, was
built in 1798, and contains 900 sittings. A new Free
church, J mile NW of Delny station, is an Early French
Gothic edifice of 1875-76, erected at a cost of £1500,
and containing 500 sittings. Kilmuir-Easter and
Tullich public schools, both built in 1876, with re-
spective accommodation for 160 and 80 children, had
(1881) an average attendance of 121 and 35, and grants
of £86, 6s. 6d. and £31, 2s. Valuation (1860) £4423,
(1881) £6767. Pop. (1801) 1703, (1831) 1551, (1861)
1295, (1871) 1281, (1881) 1146, of whom 518 were
Gaelic-speaking.— Ord Sur., shs. 94, 93, 1878-81.

Eilmun, a village in Dunoon and Kilmun parish,
Cowal, Argyllshire, on the NE shore of salt-water
Holy Loch, 1^ mile WNW of Strone, 4^ miles by water
but 8 by road N of Dunoon, and 7^ by water WNW of
Greenock. Here towards the close of the 6th century
a Columban church was founded by St Fintan Munnu
of Teach Munnu in Ireland, which church was ' in lay
hands in the 13th century, since, between 1230 and
1246, Duncan, son of Fercher, and his nephew Lauman,
son of Malcolm, grant to the monks of Paisley certain
lands at Kilmun held by them and their ancestors,
with the whole right of patronage in the church '
(Skene's Celtic Scotland, ii. 411, 1877). Here, too, in
1442 Sir Duncan Campbell of Lochow founded a col-
legiate church for a provost and six prebendaries, and
within this church were buried the founder himself in
1453 ; the headless body of the great Marquis of Argyll
in 1661 (his head not till three years after) ; the fifth
Duke's duchess, known as one of the ' beautiful Miss
Gunnings,' in 1790 ; and other members of the Argyll
family. A plain, square mausoleum, pavilion-roofed,
of 1794 now covers their remains, nothing existing of
the collegiate church but a square tower, 40 feet high,
with a stair of peculiar construction. In 1829 DaVid
Napier, marine engineer, built the 'six tea caddies'
(houses .so called from their plain and uniform aspect),
and he it was who constructed the present stone quay.
Many beautiful villas have since been erected ; and this
favourite water-place, sheltered to the N by Kilmun
Hill (1535 feet), has now a post office, an hotel, an
Established church (1841 ; 450 sittings), a Free church
(1844), and a seaside convalescent liome, erected in
1873-74 at a cost of £3500, with accommodation for 70
patients. Kilmun was the death-place of the eminent
chemist, Thomas Thom.son, M.D., F.R.S. (1773-1852).
Pop._ (1871) 320, (1881) ^Zl.—Ord. Sur., sh. 29, 1873.

Kilmux, an estate, with a modern mansion, in Scoonic
parish, Fife, 2 miles NNE of Kennoway.

Eilneuair, an ancient chapelry in Kilmichael-
382

Glassary parish, Argyllshire. Its church, near the SE
.shore of the head of Loch Awe, 1^ mile E by N of
Ford, appears to have been a structure of considerable
beaut}% and now is represented by an interesting ruin.

Kilnhead, a village in Cummertrees parish, S Dum-
friesshire, 4 miles WNW of Annan.

Kilninian and Kilmore, a iinited parish in Mull dis-
trict, Argyllshire, containing the town of Tobermory
and the village of Aros, each with a post office under
Oban ; and comprising the parts of M«ll island N of
Loch-na-Keal, and the islands of Ulva, Gometra, Calve,
Little Colonsay, Staffa, and Treshinish. It is bounded
NE and E by the Sound of Mull, SE by Torosay, S by
Loch-na-Keal, which separates it from Kilfinichen and
Kilvickeon, and on the other sides by the Atlantic
Ocean. Its utmost length, from NW to SE, is 15 miles ;
its utmost breadth, within Mull island, is 13| miles ;
and its area is 77,737 acres, of which 21401- are foreshore,
13| tidal water, and 13164 water. The separate islands
are separately noticed. The coast of the Mull island dis-
tricts, even exclusive of minor ins and outs, has an ex-
tent of not less than 40 miles ; and, containing good
harbours at Tobermory and Aros, it exhibits much
variety of shore and contour, with no small degree of
picturesqueness, and is sufficiently noticed in our articles
on Loch-na-Keal, Callioch, Tobermory, Aros, and
the Sound of Mull. The interior is hilly, but hardly
mountainous, and, rising from the coast in arable or ver-
dant slopes, in heathy acclivities, in rocky cliffs, or in
naked terraces, offers, for the most part, a mixture of
pastoral surface with heath and moss, and displays in
places basaltic dykes that stand like ai-tificial walls or
ruined castles. Basalt and greywacke, traversed with
basaltic veins, seem to pervade the whole ; and the grey-
wacke affords many beautiful specimens of zeolite, and
some of chalcedony and prehnite. The soil of the
arable tracts is mostly either a light reddish earth or a
shallow mixtui'e of that with moss, and in places is very
humid. Loch Erlsa (5 miles x | mile), the largest of
five fresh-water lakes, sends off Aros Water to Aros Bay,
and all the five abound with excellent trout. The prin-
cipal antiquities are Aros Castle and a Caledonian stone
circle above Kilmore. Calgary and Torloisk, both
noticed separately, are the chief mansions ; and 3 pro-
prietors hold each an annual value of £500 and upwards,
2 of between £100 and £500, and 2 of from £50 to £100.
Including the quoad sacra parishes of Tobermory and
Ulva, with part of Salen, Kilninian and Kilmore is in
the presbytery of Mull and synod of Argyll ; the living
is worth £270. The parish church of Kilninian stands
on the shore of Loch Tuadh, 8 miles SW of Tobermory ;
another, Kilmore, is 7 miles to the NE ; and both were
built in 1754. The two ancient parishes were conjoined
with several others at the Reformation into one vast parish
of Mull, and were separated therefrom in 1688. There is
a Free church of Kilninian and Kilmore ; and Dervaig
public, Fanmore public, Tobermory public, Ulva public,
Dervaig female industrial, and Morinish schools, with
respective accommodation for 70, 67, 244, 40, 90, and
56 children, had (1881) an average attendance of 13, 20,
115, 20, 30, and 16, and grants of £9, 15s., £26, 5s.,
£77, 15s., £35, 13s., £20, 8s., and £14, 4s. Valuation
(1860) £8028, (1883) 14,293, 9s. 6d. Pop. (1801) 3601,
(1831) 4830, (1861) 3433, (1871) 2739, (1881) 2540, of
whom 2155 were Gaelic-speaking, and 819 belonged to
the ecclesiastical parish.

Kilninver (Gael. ' church at the river's mouth '), a
hamlet and a parish in Lorn district, Argyllahire. The
hamlet lies on the right bank of Euchar Water, just
above its influx to salt-water Loch Feachan, 8 J miles
S by W of Oban, under which it has a post office.

The present parish, comprising the ancient parishes
of Kilninver and Kilmelfort — the former in the N, the
latter in the S — is lioundcd N by Kilmore and Kilbride,
E and SE by Kilchrenan and Dalavich, S by Craignish,
and W by Kilbrandon and the Firth of Lorn, its ut-
most length, from NE to SW, is 12,^ miles ; its utmost
breadth is 9^ miles; and its area is 32,391^ acres, of
which 303^ are foreshore and 833^ water. From a

KILNUAIR

point 9 furlongs "WSW of its head, Loch Feachan
\vinds 3^ miles westward along the boundaiy with Kil-
more and Kilbride ; Loch jMellbrt, on the S side of its
outer part, touches the boundary with Craignish ; and
a line of hill watershed forms most of the boundary with
Kilchrenan and Dalavich. The coast, if one follows its
ins and outs, has an aggregate extent of 14 miles, moi'e
than 6 of which are on Loch Melfort. It includes in
its northern part two high rocky promontories, in its
southern a verj- rugged reach of frontage, dangerous to
shipping, though its numerous bays and inlets afford
safe anchorage ; and from Sell and the other islands of
Kilbrandon parish it is separated by onlj^ a series of
narrow straits. The eastern and central districts, with
a general upland character, comprise four ranges of
hills, striking laterally from the watershed on the
boundary with Kilchrenan and Dalavich, and extending
somewhat parallel to one another from E to W.
They include the glen of Euchar Water, another glen
called the Braes of Lorn, and some minor vales, and
culminate in the summit of Bex Chapull (16S4 feet),
■which commands a very extensive and superb view. Of
a number of fresh-water lakes, dotted over the interior,
the largest are Lochs Scamadale (1§ mile x 2§ furl. ;
221 feet) and Tralaig (l^ mile x 2Purl. ; 470 feet) ; and
many of these lakes, and of the burns or torrents that
issue from them through narrow ravines or over precipi-
tous rocks, exhibit no little beauty. A tract of about
3 miles of arable land extends along the seaboard, and,
consisting of clayey soil and black loam, incumbent on
sand or slate, is in a state of high cultivation. Slate,
sandstone, and dykes of trap are the predominant rock.
A cave, traditionally said to have been inhabited by the
first settlers in Lorn, is on the N side of Loch Melfort ;
a sepulchral tumulus, associated with the name of a
Scandinavian princess, stood till 1813 in the immediate
vicinity of Kilninver hamlet ; a caim, commemorating
the assassination of an ancestor of the Duke of Argyll,
occupies a conspicuous site on the old line of road from
that hamlet to Loch Awe ; a very ancient watch-tower,
of unknown origin, called Ronaldson's Tower, stands on
the coast ; the ruins of an old castle or old monastery
are on an islet in Loch Pearsan ; and cairns and ancient
standing stones are in various places. The Earl of
Breadalbane and the Duke of Argyll are the chief pro-
prietors, 1 other holding an annual value of more than
£500, 2 of between £100 and £500, and 2 of from £50
to £100. Kilninver is in the presbytery of Lorn and
synod of Argyll ; the living is worth £231. One parish
church, at KUninver, was built in 1793, and contains
450 sittings ; another, at Kilmelfort, is a very old
building, with 250 sittings. There is also a Free church ;
and two public schools, Kilninver and KUmelfort, with
respective accommodation for 58 and 68 children, had
(1881) an average attendance of 16 and 26, and grants
of £22, 14s. and £33, 18s. Valuation (1860) £5642,
(1883) £5426, 5s. 3d. Pop. (1801) 1175, (1831) 1072,
(1861) 800, (1871) 759, (1881) 405, of whom 340 were
Gaelic-speaking. — Ord. Sur., shs. 44, 36, 45, 37, 1876-
83.

Kilnuair. See Kilxeuair.

Kilpatrick, a hamlet in Closeburn parish, Dumfries-
shire, within 1| mile of the Nith's left bank, and 3i
miles SSE of Thornhill.

Kilpatrick Hills. See Kilpatrick, West ; and Len-
nox Hills.

Kilpatrick, New or East, a village of SE Dumbarton-
shire, and a parish partly also in Stirlingshire. The
village stands, 181 feet above sea-level, 2^ miles S by W
of Milngavie, and 5J NNW of Glasgow, under which
it has a post office. Close to it is Bearsden station,
with another post and telegraph office. Pop. (1881)
764.

The parish, containing also the town of Milngavie,
and the villages of Canniesbum, Dalsholm, Garscadden,
Knightswood, and Xetherton, was disjoined from West
Kilpatrick in 1649. It is bounded NE by Strathblane,
E by Baldernock, SE by Cadder and Maryhill in
Lanarkshire, S by Renfrew, and W by Old Kilpatrick.

KILPATRICK, OLD

Its utmost length, from N to S, is 6 J miles ; its breadth
varies between 1| and 42 miles ; and its area is 12,146|
acres, of which 195^ are water, and 2853J belong to
Stirlingshire. The Kelvin meanders 4J miles south-
south-westward along all the Lanarkshire border ; and
Allander Water, its affluent, has here a south-east-
ward course of 5| miles, viz. , 2| along the Strathblane
boundary, 2| through the eastern interior, and 1 J along
the Baldernock boundaiy. Mugdock Reservoir (5J x 3
furl.) of the Glasgow Waterworks falls just within the
north-eastern border; Dougalston Loch (4^x1 furh)
lies partly in Xew Kilpatrick, but chiefly in Baldernock ;
and three small lakes are in the Dumbartonshire section,
whose southern district is traversed by the Forth and
Clyde Canal for a distance of 4| miles westward from
the aqueduct over the Kelvin. The surface declines in
the extreme S to 29 feet above sea-level, and rises
thence northward to 495 at Windyhill and 1171 at the
West Kilpatrick border near Cockno Loch, this NW
corner, to the extent of 4 square miles, being occupied
by a portion of the Kilpatrick Hills, whilst all the rest
of the parish presents a succession of undulations,
thickly set with swelling knolls, and forms a very
variegated and interesting landscape. Trap rocks, com-
prising greenstone, basalt, amygdaloid, tufa, and grey-
wacke, predominate in the hills ; and carboniferous rocks,
comprising sandstone, limestone, ironstone, and coal,
predominate in the low tracts. A costly but fruitless
search was at one time made in the hills for lead ore ;
sandstone of beautiful colour and fine texture is quarried
at Netherton ; limestone was formerly calcined at Lang-
faulds, as now at Baljaffray ; and coal is mined at Gars-
cube and four other places. The soil on much of the banks
of the Kelvin and the Allander is a deep rich loam ; on
some knolls is of a light, dry, sandy character ; on most
of the arable lands is a fertile clay on a tilly bottom ;
and on much of the hills is moor or bog. About 750
acres are under wood ; rather more than half of the
entire area is regularly or occasionally in tillage ; and
the rest is either pastoral or waste. The chief anti-
quities are traces of a long reach of Antoninus' Wall,
ruins ofDnuMRT Castle, and faint remains of an ancient
chapel at Lurg. Manufactories of various kinds are pro-
minent, chiefly at Milngavie and other places on Allander
Water. Mansions, noticed separately, are Clober, Craig-
ton, Dougalston, Garscadden, Garscube, Killermont,
Kilmardinny, and Mains ; and 9 proprietors hold each an
annual value of £500 and upwards, 19 of between £100
and £500, 10 of from £50 to £100, and 14 of from £20
to £50. In the presbytery of Dumbarton and synod of
Glasgow and Ayr, this parish since 1873 has been
divided ecclesiastically into New Kilpatrick proper
and Milngavie quoad sacra parish, the former a living
worth £442. Its church, at New Kilpatrick village,
was built in 1807, and contains 850 sittings. During
the last ten years it has been thrice enlarged, once to
receive an organ, the gift of the late Mr Hugh Kirk-
wood, and twice to provide 220 additional sittings. A
U. P. church, with 400 sittings, has been erected in
the rising suburb of Bearsden. Five public schools
— Blairdardie, Craigton, Garscadden, Netherton, and
New Kilpatrick — with respective accommodation for
62, 48, 196, 125, and 263 children, had (1881) an
average attendance of 52, 36, 243, 118, and 141, and
grants of £44, 9s., £42, 6s., £216, Is., £68, 12s. lOd.,
and £151, 2s. 6d. Valuation (1860) £15,635, (1883)
£114,767, 18s. 4d., including £18,188, 16s. 4d. for the
Stirlingshire section. Pop. (1801) 2112, (1831) 3090,
(1861) 4910, (1871) 6038, (1881) 7414, of whom 4565
were in Dumbartonshire, and 4487 in the ecclesiastical
parish of New Kilpatrick. — Ord. Sur.-, sh. 30, 1866.

Kilpatrick, Old or West, a village and a parish of SE
Dumbartonshire. The village, near the N bank of
the Clyde and of the Forth and Clyde Canal, has a
station on the North British railway, 11^ miles WNWof
Glasgow and 4f ESE of Dumbarton. Tradition iden-
tifies it with Bonavem Taberniaj, at which was born the
great Apostle of Ireland, St Patrick (387-458), but of
which wc only know for certain that it was situated in

383

KILPATRICK. OLD

a part of the Roman province in Britain that was ex-
posed to incursions of the Scots. In 1679 it was made
a burgh of barony ; but, having allowed its privileges to
fall into abeyance, it now is a neat, tranquil, pleasant
place, with a prosperous appearance, but little stir of
manufacture ; and has a post office under Glasgow, with
money order, savings' bank, and telegraph departments.
The parish church, at its W end, is a neat edifice of
1S12, with a square tower, and 760 sittings. The Free
church, at the E end, was built soon after the Disrup-
tion ; and the U. P. church is a plain building, belonging
formerly to the Relief, and contains 587 sittings. Pop.
(1861) 877, (1871) 903, (1881) 911.

The parish contains also the villages of Bowling,
Clydebank, Dalmuir, Duntocher, Faifley, and Milton,
with the greater part of Yoker, all of which are noticed
separatel}'. It is bounded NE by Killearn in Stirling-
shire, E by New Kilpatrick and Renfrew, SW by the
river Clyde, which divides it from Renfrewshire, and W
and NW by Dumbarton. Its utmost length, from E to
W, is 6| miles ; its utmost breadth, from N to S, is 5^
miles; and its area is 13,364^ acres, of which 310 are
foreshore and 500| water. The Clyde, curving 7| miles
west-north-westward along all the south-western border,
here widens from 110 yards to 7f furlongs, and here is
crossed by Erskine and AVest Ferries ; whilst on the
Kilpatrick bank are no fewer than five calling-places for
the Glasgow and Greenock steamers. A reservoir (6 x 3|
furl. ) lies on the boundary with Killearn, and sends ofi'
a stream to Allander Water ; in the interior are Loch
Humphrey (6x3 furl.), Cockno Loch (4 x If furl.), and
three smaller sheets of water ; and the drainage is
carried to the Clyde by Dalmuir and other burns.
From the belt of low flat ground along the Clyde the
surface rises northward to 185 feet at Faifley, 446 near
Edinbarnet, 207 at Carleith, 1199 at the Slacks, 500 at
Hill of Dun, 547 at Dumbuck, 1140 at Cockno Hill,
and 1313 at Fynloch and Duncomb Hills, the two highest
summits of the Kilpatrick Hills, which, occupying fully
one-half of the entire parish, are that part of the Lennox
range which extends from the Vale of Leven to Strath-
blane, and which, though it takes its name from West
Kilpatrick pai-ish, is prolonged into the parishes of
Dumbarton, Killearn, and New Kilpatrick. Through-
out all their southern frontage, but specially for the 3
miles between Kilpatrick village and Dumbuck, the
Kilpatrick Hills present picturesque features of wooded
acclivity and escarpment ; above Bowling they embosom
the ravine of Glenarbuck ; they project, from the foot
of the western flank of that ravine, the small rocky pro-
montory of DuNGLASS ; and they command, from multi-
tudes of vantage-grounds on their summits, shoulders, and
skirts, extensive, diversified, and verj' brilliant views.
The strip between the hills and the Clyde, which narrows
westward from 2^ miles to less than 3 furlongs, may be
roughly described as first a series of slopes, and next a
belt of low flat, but is so broken with hollows and hill-
ocks as to contain within itself some fine close scenes, and
to include many vantage-grounds, particularly Dalnotter
and Chapel Hills to the E and W of Kilpatrick village,
which equal or excel those of the higher hills for com-
mand of magnificent views. The greater part of the
entire jjarish, as seen from the deck of a steamer sailing
down the Clyde, presents a continuous series of richly
picturesque landscape. Eruptive rocks predominate in
the hills, and carboniferous in the lower tracts ; trap
for road metal, and excellent sandstone for building,
have been quarried in several places ; and limestone,
ironstone, and coal are worked in the neighbourhood of
Duntocher. The soil is very various, ranging from
fertile alluvium to barren moor. A little more than one-
half of the entire area is in tillage ; one-twentieth is
under wood; and the rest is pastoral or waste. The
chief antiquities are noticed under Antoninu.s' Wall,
Chapel Hill, Dungla.ss, and Duntocher. Mansions
are Auchentorlie, Auchentoshan, Barnhill, Cockno,
Dalmuir, Dalnotter, Dumbuck, Edinbarnet, Glenar-
buck, and Mountblow ; and 5 proprietors hold each an
annual value of £500 and upwards, 12 of between £100
384

KILRENNY

and £500, 14 of from £50 to £100, and 42 of from £20
to £50. In the presbytery of Dumbarton and synod of
Glasgow and Ayr, this parish since 1875-82 has been
ecclesiastically divided into Old Kilpatrick proper and
Clydebank and Duntocher q. s. parishes, the first worth
£386. Six places of worship, other than those at the
village, are noticed under Clydebank and Duntocher.
The six public schools of Bowling, Clydebank, Dalmuir,
Duntocher, Milton, and Old Kilpatrick, and Duntocher
Roman Catholic school, with total accommodation for
1535 children, had (1881) an average attendance of 831,
and grants amounting to £760, 14s. lOd. Valuation
(1860) £23,429, (1883) £49,881, 7s. Id. Pop. (1801)
2844, (1831) 5879, (1841) 7020, (1861) 5577, (1871)
5346, (1881) 8862, of whom 2752 are in Clydebank, 2300
in Duntocher, and 3810 in Old Kilpatrick proper. — Ord.
Sur., sh. 30, 1866.

Kilpeter. See Houston.

Kilpimie. See Newtyle.

Kilravock Castle, a picturesque old mansion in the
Nairnshire section of Croy and Dalcross parish, near
the left bank of the river Nairn, 7 miles SW of Nairi.
town, and 3 SSE of Fort George station. ' The keep of
Kilravock,' says Mr Skelton, ' stands on the thickly-
wooded bank that overhangs the valley of the Nairn.
It is an imposing though somewhat heavy mass of
masonry ; a clumsy manor house in the architectural
style of a later century having been tagged on to the
square crenellated keep, built in 1460 by Hugh, the
seventh baron, and destroyed by that parvenu Earl of
Mar, who was hanged by the old nobility in his own
scarf over the Brig of Lauder. . . . The Roses
selected a pleasant site for their habitation. The oak
and the maple flourish luxuriantly ; the peaceful stream
wanders quietly through the green strath and below the
battered and blackened walls whose shadow it repeats ;
the terraced garden along the rocky bank is sweet with
the fragrance of English violets, planted by fair Mistress
Muriel or Euphame of the olden time.' Within is one
of the richest collections of old MSS., old armour, and
old paintings in the north of Scotland ; and one of the
MSS., a curious family history, written in 1684, was
edited by Cosmo Innes for the Spalding Club in 1848.
Rich, too, is Kilravock in its memories, having received
a visit from Queen Mary in 1562 ; from Prince Charles
Edward in 1746, two days before the battle of Culloden ;
from the Duke of Cumberland, who came next day, and
said to the old laird, 'You have had my cousin with
you ; ' and from Robert Burns on 5 Sept. 1787. Two
of its daughters, again, were one the wife of Duncan
Forbes of Culloden, the other the mother of Henry
Mackenzie, the 'Man of Feeling,' who, when he came
down here to see his cousin, with her wrote fantastic
inscriptions and dedicated walks to 'Melancholy.'
Hugh Rose of Geddes, the first out of seventeen lairds
who have borne that Christian name, acquired the lands
of Kilravock in the 13th century ; and his twenty-first
descendant. Major James Rose (b. 1S20 ; sue. 1854),
holds 4395 acres in Nairnshire, valued at £2345 per
annum. — Ord. Sur., sh. 84, 1876. See vol. iii. of
Billings' Baronial Antiquities (1852), and John Skelton's
Essays in History and Biography (1883).

Kilremonth. See St Andrews.

Kilrenny, a royal burgh and a coast parish in the
East Neuk of Fife. The royal burgh consists of two
parts — the small rural village of Upper Kilrenny, ^vith
a post office (Kilrenny) under Anstruther, and the fish-
ing village of Nether Kilrenny or Cellardyke, respec-
tively 1-i mile NE and 1 E by N of Anstruther station.
Originally and for a long time identified only with
Upper Kilrenny, it seems to have acc^uired the status of
a royal burgh solely by accidental misconstruction of
rights that early belonged to it as a burgh of regality ;
and it exercised for some time the power of sending a
member to the Scottish parliament, but receded iu
1672 by its own consent into the condition of a mere
burgh of regality. At tlie Union it once more rose by
another mistake to the status of a royal burgh, and
figuring in record as if it had obtained a royal charter

Seal of Kilrenny.

KILRIE

in 1707, was so extended by the Reform Act of 1832 as
to include the Anstruther suburb of Cellardyke or
Nether Kih-enny. Afterwards it was stripped for a
time of its municipal corporation, and placed under the
management of three persons resident in Cellardyke ;

but now it is governed
by a provost, 2 bailies,
a treasurer, and 5 coun-
cillors, who also act as
police commissioners.
With St Andrews,
Crail, Cupar, Pitten-
weeni, and the two An-
struthers it unites in
returning a member to
parliament. The annual
value of real property
amounted to £4888 in
1883, when the parlia-
mentary and the muni-
cipal constituency num-
bered 405 and 434,
whilst the corporation revenue for 1882 was £63. Pop.
of parliamentary burgh (1841) 1719, (1861) 2145, (1871)
2470, (1881) 2759, of whom 2730 were in the royal
burgh. Houses (1881) 376 inhabited, 9 vacant, 5
building.

The parish, including also a small portion of Anstruther-
Easter parliamentary burgh, is bounded N and NE b}'
Crail, SE by the Firth of Forth, and W by Anstruther
and Carnbee. Its utmost length, from E to W, is 2|
miles ; its utmost breadth, from N to S, is 2f miles ;
and its area is 3931 acres, of which 155^ are foreshore.
The coast, measuring 2^ miles in length, has a low
shore, covered with large masses of sandstone blocks ;
and contains, in its eastern part, considerably above
high -water mark, some caves marked in the interior
•with artificial cuttings and chiselled crosses. The
interior ascends, from the shore to the northern
boundary, in continuous gentle acclivity, attaining an
elevation of from 200 to 300 feet above sea-level, and
presenting the appearance of a fertile and highly cul-
tivated slope. A few acres along the shore are con-
stantly in pasture, a few are in a state of commonage
or under wood, and all the rest of the land is regularly
in tillage. The rocks belong to the Carboniferous for-
mation ; and sandstone, limestone, and coal have been
worked. The soil is mostly good, and has been vastly
improved by agricultural operations. The chief an-
tiquities are a rudely carved standing stone, supposed to
commemorate some battle with invading Scandinavians,
and the site of Thirdpart House, long the family
residence of the Scots of Scotstarvet. Sir James
Lumsdaine of Innergellie, who fought under Gustavus
Adolphus of Sweden and at the battle of Dunbar, was
a native of Kilrenny ; James Melville, nephew of the
famous Andrew Melville, became its minister in 1586 ;
and Drummond of Hawthornden laid in it the scene of
his macaronic Polemo-Mkldinia. Mansions are Inner-
gellie and Eennyhill ; and 6 proprietors hold each an
annual value of £500 and upwards, 3 of between £100
and £500, 8 of from £50 to £100, and 14 of from £20
to £50. Kilrenny is in the presbytery of St Andrews
and synod of Fife ; the living is worth £483. The
church, at Upper Kilrenny, was built in 1806, and con-
tains 800 sittings. Three public schools — Cellardyke,
Cellardyke infant, and Upper Kilrenny — with respective
accommodation for 225, 239, and 147 children, had
(1881) an average attendance of 199, 161, and 106, and
grants of £185, lis., £137, Os. 6d., and £84, 7s. Valua-
tion (1860) £7523, 7s., (1873) £12,875, 16s. 8d., (1883)
£7518, 2s. 5d. Pop. (1801) 1043, (1831) 1705, (1861)
2534, (1871) 3015, (1881) 3198.— OnZ. ^'wr., sh. 41, 1857.
Kilrie, an estate, with a modern mansion, in Kinghorn
parish, Fife, 3 miles NW of the town.
Kilrule. See St Andrews.

Kilry, a quoad sacra parish in Glenisla and Lintrathen
parishes, W Forfarshire. Constituted in 1879, it is in
the presbytery of Meigle and synod of Angus and

KILSYTH

Mearns. The church, 4 miles N by W of Alyth, was
built in 1876-77. Pop. (1881) 381, of whom 54 were in
Lintrathen. — Ord. Stir., sh. 56, 1870,

Kilrymont, See St Andrews.

Kilspindie, a village and a parish in Gowrie district,
SE Perthshire. The village, standing in the mouth of
a small glen, 1 mile SSW of Rait, 2| miles NNW of
Errol station, and 3g NNE of Glencarse station, had
anciently a castle, now extinct, and figures in Blind
Harry's narrative as the place where Sir "William
Wallace, with his mother, found refuge in his boyhood.

The parish, containing also the post offices of Rait
and Pitrody under Errol, comprehends the ancient
parishes of Kilspindie and Rait. It is bounded NE
by Caputh (detached) and Kinnaird, SE by Errol,
S by Kinfauns and KinnouU (detached), and W by
Scone, St Martins, and another detached section
of KinnouU. Its utmost length and breadth, south-
eastward and south-westward, is 3| miles ; and its area
is 6258^ acres, of which 3| are water. A strip along
the SE border forms part of the Carse of Gowrie, and
sinks to 40 feet above sea-level ; thence the surface rises
north-westward to the Sidlaws, attaining 944 feet on
EvELiCK or Pole Hill and 849 on Beal Hill ; and thence
again it declines towards Strathmore — to 380 feet at the
NW border. The parish thus presents a diversified
aspect, ranging from luxuriant corn-field to barren
moor ; by Rait, Kilspindie, and Pitrody Burns its
drainage is mostly carried eastward to the Firth of Tay.
Trap and coarse greyish sandstone are the predominant
rocks. The trap has been quarried in Pitrody Den ;
and beautiful pieces of agate are often found among the
hills. The soil on the flat south-eastern border is a
fertile mixture of clay and humus ; on the slopes of the
southern hills, and in the hollows and little glens, is of
various quality, but generally good ; and on the northern
hills, is wet and heathy. About seven-thirteenths of
the entire area are in tillage, one-thirtieth is under
wood, and the rest of the land is either pastoi'al or
waste. FiNGASK Castle and Annat are the only
mansions ; and 4 proprietors hold each an annual value
of more, 2 of less, than £500. Kilspindie is in the
presbytery of Perth and synod of Perth and Stirling ;
the living is worth £307. The church, at Kilspindie
village, is a plain edifice, recently repaired, and contain-
ing 350 sittings ; and a public school, with accommoda-
tion for 130 children, had (1881) an average attendance
of 84, and a grant of £87, 19s. Valuation (1860) £6255,
(1883) £6746, 13s. 4d. Pop. (1801) 762, (1831) 760,
(1861) 665, (1871) 679, (1881) Q93.— Ord. Sur., sh. 48,
1868.

Kilspindley. See Aberlady.

Kilsjrth, a town and a parish on the southern border
of Stirlingshire. The town, standing within 5 furlongs
of the N bank of the Kelvin and of the Forth and Clyde
Canal, by road is If mile N of Croy station, 4 miles
WNW of Cumbernauld, 12 W by S of Falkirk, 15 SSW
of Stirling, 12i NE of Glasgow, and 35 W by N of
Edinburgh ; wliilst by rail it is 4 4 miles ENE of Kirk-
intilloch, and 9 miles ENE of Maryhill, as terminus of
the Kelvin Valley branch of the North British, formed
in 1876-78, which branch, under an Act of 1882 is to be
continued east-north-eastward into connection with the
Denny branch of the Caledonian. Overhung to the N
by the Kilsyth Hills, and threaded by Garrel Burn, it
occupies a small rising-ground 180 feet above sea-level ;
and, viewed from the neighbouring heights or from the
canal, presents a bleak and dingy appearance, with
straggling, irregular streets. An older village, called
Monaebrugh, was situated on a different part of the
banks of Garrel Burn ; but the present place was founded
in 1665, and took its name of Kilsyth from the proprie-
tor's title. For some time it derived considerable con-
sequence from being a stage on tlie great thoroughfare
from Glasgow to Stirling, and from Glasgow, by way of
Falkirk, to Edinburgh ; and, after the cessation of that
traffic, it continued to maintain itself by connection
with the cotton manufacturers of Glasgow, acquiring,
about 1845, a factory of its own. Kilsyth has a post

385

KILSYTH

office under Glasgow, with money order, savings' bank,
insurance, and telegraph departments, branches of the
National and Royal Banks, a National Security savings'
bank (1829), 7 insurance agencies, 3 hotels, a town hall,
assembly rooms, a cemetery, gasworks, a good water
supply, a new drainage system, effected at a cost of
£2250, fairs on the second Friday in April and the
thii'd Friday in November, and sheriff small-debt courts
on the fourth Thursdaj^ of March, June, September, and
December. The parish church, at the W end of the
town, is an elegant structure of 1816, containing 860
sittings. Other places of worship are a recent and hand-
some Free church, a U. P. church (1768 ; 559 sittings),
Independent and Wesleyan chapels, and St Patrick's
Roman Catholic church (1866 ; 450 sittings). The
Burgh Academy, at Craigend, is an Italian edifice of
1875-76, built at a cost of £4800. A burgh of barony
since 1826, and also a police burgh, Kilsyth is
governed by a provost, a senior and a junior bailie, and
6 councillors. Burgh valuation (1SS3) £14,324, 9s. 3d.
Pop. (1851) 3949, (1861) 4692, (1871) 4895, (1881) 5405,
of whom 2682 wei'e females. Houses (1881) 1143 in-
habited, 155 vacant.

The battle of Kilsyth was fought on 15 Aug. 1645,
between the army of Montrose and the Covenanters
under Baillie. The scene of action was the tract around
the hollow which now contains the reservoir of the
Forth and Clyde Canal — a field so broken and irregular,
that, did not tradition and history concur in identifying
it, few persons could believe it to have been the arena
of any military operation. Monti'ose and his men took
up their ground to their own liking, to abide the onset
of forces specially deputed against them by the Scottish
council. When Baillie arrived to make the attack, he
found his authority all but superseded by a committee,
headed by Argyll, and shorn of power to exert subor-
dinating influence on the portion of the army placed
specially under his control. Montrose's army consisted
of only 4400 foot, with 500 horse, while that of his an-
tagonist amounted to 6000 foot and 1000 horse ; but
Montrose had the high advantages of having chosen his
grcmnd, of possessing the supreme command, and of
having arranged his troops in the best possible manner
for confronting his opponents. The weather being very
hot, Montrose bade his followers doff their outer gar-
ments— a circumstance which gave rise to a tradition
that they fought naked ; and, making a general assault,
he almost instantly — aided or rather led by the impetuo-
sity of his Highlanders — threw his antagonists, reserve
and all, into such confusion, that prodigies of valour, on
the part of their nominal commander, utterly failed to
rally even a portion of them and incite them to with-
stand the foe. A total rout taking place, Montrose's
forces cut down or captured almost the whole of the in-
fantry, and even coolly massacred many of the unarmed
inhabitants of the country. Though Baillie's cavalry,
for the most part, escaped death from the conqueror,
verymany of them met it in fleeing from his pursuit across
the then dangerous morass of Dullatdr Bog. In-
credible as it may seem, only 7 or 8 in Montrose's army
were slain. 'It belongs not to me,' .says the Rev.
Robert Rennie, in the Old Statistical Account, ' to give
anj' detail of that engagement, suffice it to say, that
every little hill and valley bears the name, or records
the deeds of that day ; so that the situation of each army
can be distinctly traced. Such as the Bullet and Baggage
Knowe, the Drum Burn, the Slaughter Howe or hollow,
Kill-e-many Butts, etc., etc. In the Bullet Knowe and
neighbourhood, bullets are found every year ; and in
some places so thick, that you may lift three or four
■without moving a step. In the Slaughter Howe, and a
variety of other places, bones and skeletons maybe dug up
everywhere ; and in every little bog or marsh for 3 miles,
especially in the Dullatur Bog, they have been discovered
in almost every ditch. The places where the bodies lie
in any number may be easily known ; as the gi'ass is
always of a more luxuriant growth in summer, and of a
yellowish tinge in spring and harvest. ' Kilsyth is remark-
able as the scene of two reliijious revivals which occurred
386

KILSYTH

respectively in the years 1742 and 1839, and excited
great interest throughout the country. Narratives of
them were written and published by the Rev. Mr Robe
and the Rev. Mr Burns, the incumbents at their respec-
tive dates. Kilsyth Castle, \ mile N of the town, was
the seat from the first half of the 15th century of a
junior branch of the Livingstones of Callendar, and,
strengthened and garrisoned against Oliver Cromwell in
1650, is now a ruin. In 1661 Sir James Livingstone
was created Viscount Kilsyth and Baron Campsie, but
his second son, William, third Viscount Kilsyth, en-
gaged in the rebellion of 1715, and suffered attainder in
the following year. The family burying-vault in the
old churchj'ard measures 16 feet each way ; and, in
1795, was found by some Glasgow students to contain an
embalmed body of the last Viscount's first wife and in-
fant son in a state of complete preservation. It was
afterwards so closed with flat stones as to be rendered
inaccessible.

The parish of Kilsyth, containing also the villages
of Banton and Low Banton, comprises two ancient
baronies, East and West, but consisted of only the East
Barony, then called Monaebrugh, till 1649, when it
acquired the V7est Barony by annexation from Campsie.
It is bounded NW by Fintry, N by St Ninians, E by
Denny, S by Cumbernauld and Kirkintilloch in Dum-
bartonshire (detached), and W by Campsie. Its utmost
length, from E to W, is 6 J miles ; its utmost breadth,
from N to S, is 4 J miles ; and its area is 13, 248 4 acres,
of which 127^ are water. The Carbon winds 3| miles
eastward along all the northern boundary ; the Kelvin,
rising in the south-eastern corner, flows 5J miles west-
south-westward, with sluggish current in a deep artificial
channel, along or close to most of the southern border,
and within a brief distance of the Forth and Clyde
Canal ; several short but impetuous burns rise in the
interior, and run northward to the Carron ; and Gar-
VALD or Garrel Burn, issuing from a reservoir near the
western border, curves 5| miles south-south-eastward to
the Kelvin, which elsewhere is joined by two or three
lesser streams. Most of the burus form frequent water-
falls ; and those that run to the Kelvin are remarkable
for the extent to which they have been utilised for
water-power. The surface declines in the NE along the
Carron to 670, in the SW along the Kelvin to 150, feet
above sea-level ; and between these points it rises to
404 feet near Riskend, 1393 at Laird's Hill, 1484 at
Tomtain, and 1129 at Cock Hill. The southern district
of the parish, comprising nearly one-half of the entire
area, contains the watershed or summit level (156 feet)
of the strath of the Forth and Clyde Canal ; and for
some little distance from the southern boundary is
almost a dead flat, but rises presentl}'^ into an undulat-
ing, broken, rough ascent, which is everywhere so well
cultivated as, though very bare of trees, to present a
pleasing appearance. A narrow belt of meadow land
extends along the Carron ; and all the rest of the parish
is that part of the long range of the Lennox Hills,
which, consisting of wild pastoral heights, and con-
nected westward with the Campsie Fells, eastward with
the Denny Hills, bears the distinctive name of the
Kilsyth Hills, is picturesquely intersected with short
deep glens, and commands, from its loftiest summits,
magnificent views from sea to sea, and over parts of
fourteen counties. Eruptive rocks predominate in the
hills, and carboniferous in the plain. Limestone and a
beautiful light-coloured sandstone are quarried ; and
ironstone and coal, the latter of various equalities and
much intersected by trap dykes, are both very plentiful,
and have long been mined. At Riskend and Haugh
two specially rich seams of coal and ironstone were
opened up in the summer of 1883, which will furnish
employment to between 200 and 300 additional hands.
A vein of copper ore was wrought during part of
last century ; and specimens of yellow and red jasper,
suitable for gems, were brought into notice in 1791.
The soil of the SE corner is thin and sandy or
gravelly ; on the flat lands along the Kelvin, is a
deep rich loam ; on the slopes and arable braes to the

KILTARLITY AND CONVINTH

KILTEARN

N of the plain, is claj-ey or stiflly argillaceous, incum-
bent on retentive strata ; and in the upland tracts, is
mostly sandy, gravelly, or stony. Of the entire area,
10,901 acres are arable, 2050 are pasture, and 170 are
under wood. Antiquities are remains of two Eoman
and of two Caledonian forts, the ruins of Kilsyth and
Colzium Castles, a seat of ancient feudal courts still
called the Court Hill, and a retreat of the Covenanters
in 1669, known as the Covenanters' Cave. Among dis-
tingviished natives have been Sir "William Livingstone,
vice-chamberlain of Scotland (d. 1627) ; the Rev. John
Livingstone (1603-72), one of the founders of the Pres-
bjrterian Church in Ireland ; Sir Archibald Edmonstoue
(1795-1871), author of A Journey to the Oases of Upper
Egijpt ; and the Rev. Dr R. Rennie, minister of the
parish from 1789 till 1820, author of several essa}'s on
peat moss. Colzitjji House is the chief mansion ; and
6 proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and
upwards, 14 of between £100 and £500, 35 of from £50
to £100, and 55 of from £20 to £50. In the presbji;ery
of Glasgow and synod of Glasgow and Ayr, this parish
since 1880 has been divided ecclesiastically into Kilsyth
proper and the quoad sacra parish of Banton, the former
a living worth £164. Four public schools — Academy,
Banton, Chapel Green, Kilsyth — and a Roman Catholic
school, with respective accommodation for 600, 173, 88,
201, and 172 children, had (1881) an average attendance
of 497, 157, 53, 149, and 169, and grants of £432,
lis. 6d., £165, Os. 6d., £41, 7s. 6d., £110, 2s., and
£126, 13s. 6d. Landward valuation (1860) £14,050,
(1883) £16,049, 6s. 9d. Pop. (1801) 1762, (1831) 4297,
(1861) 6112, (1871) 6313, (1881) 6840, of whom 793
were in Banton quoad sacra parish. — Ord. Sur., sh. 31,
1867.

Kiltarlity * and Convinth, a united parish of IT Inver-
ness-shire, whose church stands near the left bank of
Belladrum Burn, 4i miles S by W of Beauly under
which there is a post office of Kiltarlity. Bounded NW
and N by Kilmorack, E by Kirkhill and Inverness, and
S by Urquhart-Glenmoriston, it has an utmost length
from NE to SW of 30| miles, t a varying width of 3§
furlongs and 10| miles, and an area of 124J square
miles or 79,579^ acres, of which 1347| are water.
The river Glass, formed by the confluence of the
Affric and Amhuinn Deabhaidh, 2f miles SW of Glen-
affric Hotel, flows 12 miles north-eastward — chiefly
along the boundary with, but for 4^ miles through,
Kilmorack parish — till, near Erchless Castle, it unites
with the Farrar to form the river Beauly, which
itself winds 12 miles east-north-eastward, mainly along
the northern boundary, till at Lovat Bridge it passes
off" from Kiltarlity. Of a number of streams that
flow to these two rivers, the chief is Belladrum Burn,
ranning 7| miles northward, till it falls into the Beauly
just below Beaufort Castle ; and of fully a score of lakes
the largest are Loch a' Bhruthaich (9 x 3J furl. ; 942
feet). Loch Neaty (5 x 1§ furl. ; 822 feet). Loch nan
Eun (5x2 furl. ; 1700 feet), and Loch na Beinne Baine
(7i X 3 furl. ; 1650 feet). Almost everywhere hilly or
mountainous, the surface declines in the extreme NE
to 18 feet above sea-level, and rises thence to Tor Mor
(487 feet), Meall Mor (1316), Creag Ard Mhor (933),
the *eastern shoulder (2032) of Carn nam PoUan, *Carn
nam Bad (1499), Clach-bheinn (1887), Carn a' Choire
Chruaidh (2830), and *Carn a' Choire Chairbh (2827),
where asterisks mark those summits that culminate on
the confines of the parish. Such is a bare outline of
the general features of Kiltarlity, whose special beauties,
antiquities, and mansions are noticed under Aigas,
Beauly, Dhruiji, Glass, Glencoxvinth, Strath-

* ' We have a slight trace of the Columhan church in the east-
ern districts of the northern Picts in the Irish Annals, which
record in 616 tlie death of Tolorg-gain or Talarican, who gives his
name to the great district of CiUtalargyn, or Kiltarlity ' (Skene's
Celtic Scotland, ii. 153, 1877).

t Xear Invercannich, however, a strip of Kilmorack, | mile wide
at the narrowest, cuts this parish in two. It may also be noted
that everj' earlier description of Kiltarlity has erred in assigning
to it Glenaffric, with Lochs Affric and Beueveian, which really
belong to Kilmorack.

GLASS, Beaufoet Castle, Belladrum, Erchless
Castle, Eskadale, and Guisachax. Devonian rocks
predominate in the lower tracts ; gneiss and gi'anite in
tlie uplands. Serpentine and granular limestone occur
in small quantities on the south-eastern border ; and
specimens of asbestos and rock crystal are often found
upon the hills. The soil of the arable lands is mostly
thin, light, extremely hard, and of a reddish colour.
Strathglass and the NE corner of the parish are beauti-
fully wooded. Among the antiquities are numerous
Caledonian stone circles and some vitrified forts ; and
there are three considerable caves at Cugie, Easter Main,
and Corriedow, of which the last, in a glen on the SE
border, is said to have aff'orded refuge for some days to
Prince Charles Edward. Kiltarlity is in the presbytery
of Inverness and synod of Moray ; the living is worth
£332. The parish church, on a rising-ground amid a
clump of tall trees, was rebuilt in 1829, and contains
790 sittings. There are also Established mission chapels
of Erchless and Guisachan, Free churches of Kiltarlity
and Strathglass, and St Mary's Roman Catholic church
of Eskadale (1826 ; 600 sittings) ; whilst six schools —
Culburnie, Glenconvinth, Guisachan, Struy, Tomna-
cross, and Eskadale — with total accommodation for 726
children, had (1881) an average attendance of 222, and
grants amounting to £240. Valuation (1860) £9391,
(1882) £11,610. Pop. (1801) 2588, (1841) 2881, (1861)
2839, (1871) 2537, (1881) 2134, of whom 1721 were
Gaelic-speaking.— Ord Sur., shs. S3, 73, 72, 1878-81.

Kilteam (Gael. cill-Tighearn, 'St Ternan's church'),
a parish of Ross-shire, containing Evanton* village and
FouLis station, the latter being 2 miles SSW of Novar
and i\ NiSTE of Dingwall. Tapering north-westward,
and bounded NE by Alness, SE by the Cromarty Firth,
SW by Dingwall, and W by Fodderty, it has an ut-
most length from NW to SE of 13| miles, a varying
width of 1 mile and 6 miles, and an area of 29, 956 J
acres, of which 1097J are foreshore and 8S6§- water.
Loch Glass (4 miles x 5 furl. ; 713 feet) lies on the
Alness border, and from its foot sends oif the river
Glass or Aultgraxde, which, running 8 miles east-
south-eastward to the Cromarty Firth, chiefly along
the NE boundary, but latterly through the north-
eastern corner of the parish, is joined from Kilteam
by the AUt nan Caorach ; whilst of seven lakes scat-
tered over the interior, the largest is Loch Bealach
nan Cuilean (7^ x 1 furL ; 1200 feet). Except for a
level strip along the Firth, the entire surface is hilly or
mountainous, wild, heathy, and uncultivated upland,
chief elevations north-westward being Cnoc Vabin (1000
feet), Cnoc nan Each (1508), huge, lumpish *Ben'
Wyvis (3429), Queen's Cairn (2109), *Carn nan Ruadha
(2206), and *Clach nam Buaidh-fhearan (1875), where
asterisks mark those summits that culminate on the
western confines of the parish. Devonian rocks pre-
dominate along the coast ; metamorphic rocks, chiefly
gneiss, in the interior. Small portions of carboniferous
rocks, containing coal, near the shore, at one time
induced an expensive but fruitless attempt to sink a
coal mine ; and lead and iron ores occur in the interior,
but not in quantity to promise productive working. At
most, 3000 acres are regularly or occasionally in tillage ;
but a fair proportion of the lower district is under wood.
A cairn and remains of five pre-Reformation chapels are
among the extant antiquities, a Caledonian stone circle
having been demolished not long before 1839. There
is a remarkable group of cup-and-ring marked stones on
the estate of Mountgerald, and a very remarkable and
interesting group of hut circles with tumuli to the SW
of Cnoc Mhargaidh Dhuibh on the estate of Swordale.
This group of hut circles is in part surrounded by the
remains of an old enclosure. The Falls of Coneas near
the junction of the Aultgrande and Allt-nan-Caorach
are interesting and beautiful. The most interesting
natural phenomenon in the parish is the Black Rock of
Kiltearn, now visited by hundreds of people every year.
The most distinguished and venerated of the northern
Covenanters, the Rev. Thomas Hogg, was minister of
Kiltearn. There is a marble tablet iu the parish church

387

KILTUINTAIK

■with the following inscription, which gives a condensed
history of his life : — ' In memory of the Rev. Thomas
Hogg of Kiltearn, one of the most eminent Scottish
ministers of the I7th century. He was born at Tain
1628 ; ordained minister of Kiltearn 1654 ; deposed as
a Protester 1661 ; and ejected from Kiltearn 1662. As
"a noted keeper of conventicles" he was imprisoned in
Forres 1668 ; in Edinbm-gh 1677, 1679, and 1683 ; in
the Bass Rock 1677 and 1677-1679 ; put to the horn
1674; intercommuned 1675; fined 5000 merks 1683;
and banished furth of Scotland 1684. He was im-
prisoned, on false political grounds, in London 1685 ;
went in 1686 to Holland, where the Prince of Orange
made him a royal chaplain ; was restored to Kiltearn
1691 ; and died 4th Jany. 1692, aged 64 years. Matt.
V. 10-12. 1880.' Mansions, all noticed separately,
are Foulis Castle, Mountgerald, Lemlair, and
Balconie ; and 3 proprietors hold each an annual value
of between £1100 and £4100, 6 of between £250 and
£830. Kiltearn is in the presbytery of Dingwall and
synod of Ross ; the living is worth £332. The parish
church (parts of it pre-Reformation, recently repaired
and reseated) stands close to the Firth, 1| mile SE of
Evanton, where there is a Free church ; and a public
school, with accommodation for 150 children, had
(1881) an average attendance of 124, and a grant of
£94, Is. Valuation (1860) £7684, (1881) £10,568,
10s. 9d., pUs £1512 for railway. Pop. (1801) 1525,
(1831) 1605, (1861) 1634, (1871) 1496, (1881) 1182, of
whom 649 were Gaelic-speaking. — Ord. Sur., sh. 93,
1881.

Kiltuintaik, an ancient parish in the N of Argyll-
shire, incorporated Avith Kilcolmkill, soon after the
Reformation, to form the parish of Morvern. Its church
continued to be in use along with that of Kilcolmkill,
and, ds rebuilt in 1780, contains 300 sittings.

Kilvaree, a hamlet near the W border of Muckairn
parish, Argyllshire, 6i miles ENE of Oban.

Kilvaxter, a hamlet in the N W of the Isle of Skye,
Inverness-shire. Its post-town is Kilmuir, under
Portree.

Kilvickeon, See Kileinichen.

Kilwinning, a town and a parish in Cunninghame
district, Ayrshire. The town, standing on the river
Garnock, has a station on the Glasgow and South-
Western railway, at the junction of the branch to
Ardrossan with the line to Ayr, 3| miles NNW of
Irvine, 6 E by N of Ardrossan, and 25^ SW of Glasgow.
It took its name from St AVinnin or Winning, an Irish
evangelist, said to have landed at the mouth of the
Garnock in 715, and here to have founded a church, on
whose site four centuries later arose a stately abbey.
Occupying a gentle rising-ground amid low wooded
environs, it presents an antique aspect, and consists of
one narrow main street, some by-lanes, and rows of
modern houses, with straggling outskirts, whose western
extremity is called the Byres, from a belief that the
monks there kept their cattle, whilst the eastern is
known as Crossbill, as the spot where a cross was erected
to meet the eyes of approaching pilgrims to St Winning's
shrine. Throughout the surrounding country it bore
down to recent times the name of Saigtown or Saint's-
town ; and a fine spring, a little S of the manse, long
held in superstitious repute, is still called St Winning's
Well. After the Reformation it lost the prestige and
importance conferred on it by its abbey ; and, up till the
establishment of the neighbouring Eglinton Ironworks
(1845), it mainly depended on the weaving of nmslins,
gauzes, shawls, etc., for the Glasgow and Paisley mar-
kets. Kilwinning now has a post office, with money
order, savings' bank, and railway telegraph departments,
branches of the Commercial and Clydesdale Banks, 14
insurance agencies, 2 hotels, a parish church (1100 sit-
tings), a Free church, a U.P. church (600 sittings; re-
stored 1883), an Original Secession church (550 sittings),
an Evangelical Union chapel, a public library, a gas-
light comj)any, large engineering and fire-clay works, and
fairs on the first Monday of February and November.
The public school, Tudor in style, was erected iu 1875-
38S

KILWINNING

76 at a cost of £8500. The ancient town cross has
been restored, but retains its original shaft. Pop.
(1841) 2971, (1861) 3921, (1871) 3598, (1881) 3469.
Houses (1881) 823 inhabited, 66 vacant, 6 building.

The abbey of SS. AVinning and Mary was founded be-
tween 1140 and 1191, for a colony of Tyronensian Bene-
dictines from Kelso, by Hugh de Morville, lord of
Cunninghame, and Lord High Constable of Scotland.
Robert I., Hugh de Morville, John de Menetheth, lord
of Arran, Sir William Cunningham of Kilmaurs, Sir John
Maxwell of Maxwell, and other opulent and powerful per-
sonages, endowed it with very extensive possessions, so
that, besides granges and other property, it claimed the
tithes and pertinents of 20 parish churches — 13 of them
iu Cunninghame, 2 in Arran, 2 in Argyllshire, and 2 in
Dumbartonshire. ' According to the traditionary account
of the entire revenue of the monastery,' says the writer
of the Old Statistical Account, 'it is asserted that its
present annual amount would be at least £20,000 ster-
ling.' From Robert II. the monks obtained a charter,
erecting all the lands of the barony of Kilwinning into
a free regality, with ample jurisdiction ; and they
received ratifications of this charter from Robert III.
and James IV. James IV., when passing the abbey
in 1507, made an ofi'ering of 14s. to its relics ; and
Hoveden gravely relates, that a fountain in its vicinity
ran blood for eight days and nights in 1184. The
last abbot was Gavin Hamilton, a hot opponent of John
Knox, and a zealous partisan of Queen Mary, who in
1571 was killed in a skirmish at Restalrig, near Edin-
burgh. According to tradition, the buildings of the
abbey, when entire, covered several acres, and were
stately and magnificent ; but between 1561 and 1591
all that was strictly monastic was so demolished, that
hardly a trace of the foundations of the walls remains.
In 1603 — after the abbey had been under the commen-
datorship, first of the family of Glencairn, and next of
the family of Raith — its lands and tithes, and various
pertinents, were erected into a temporal lordship in
favour of Hugh, Earl of Eglinton. The church con-
tinued to be in use as the parish church till 1775, when
the greater j^art of it was taken down to make way for
the present building. So much of the ruins as remained
were afterwards rejiaired, at very considerable expense,
by the then Earl of Eglinton ; and a drawing of them
made in 1789 is given in Grose's Antiquities. The
steeple, a huge square tower, 32 feet square and 103 feet
high, in 1814 fell from natural decay. A beautiful
new tower, 105 feet high and 28 square, was built at a
cost of £2000 in the following year on the same site,
and separate from the church. The extant remains.
Early English in style, comprise the great western door-
way, with mullioned window above ; the base of the S
wall of the nave, 95 feet long ; and the stately gable of
the S transept, with three tall graceful lancets (Billings'
Antiquities, vol. iii.).

Kilwinning is the reputed cradle of Freemasonry in
Scotland. Fraternities of architects were formed on the
Continent of Europe, in the 11th and 12th centuries, to
carry out the principles of Gothic architecture ; and,
being favoured with bulls from the Popes of Rome,
secui'ing to them peculiar privileges wherever they might
go, they called themselves Freemasons. One of these
fraternities is said to have come to Scotland to build
the priory of Kilwinning; and there to have taken some
of the natives into their fellowship, making them par-
takers of their secrets and their privileges. Such is the
current account, on which Mr R. F. Gould, in his
exhaustive History of Freemasonry (Edinb. 1883),
observes : — ' The pretensions of the Kilwinning Lodge
to priority over that of Edinburgh, based as they are
upon the story which make its institution and the erec-
tion of Kilwinning Abbey coeval, are weakened by the
fact that the abbey in question was neither the first nor
second Gothic structure erected in Scotland. That the
lodge was presided over about the year 1286 by James,
Lord Steward of Scotland, a few years later by the hero
of Bannockhurn, and afterwards by the third son ol'
Robert II. (Earl of Buchan) are some of the improb»^;i»*

KILWINNING

stories -which were propagated during the last century,
in order to secure for the lodge the coveted position of
being the first on the Grand Lodge Roll, or to give
colour to its separate existence as a rival grand lodge.
"Whatever was the dignity its followers desired for their
Alma Mater during the early part of the last century,
and however difficult it might then have been to recon-
cile conflicting claims, we are left in no doubt as to the
precedence given to the lodge at Edinburgh in the
Statutes of 1599, Kilwinning having positively to take
the second place.' The oldest minute-book preserved by
the Lodge is a small vellum-bound quarto, and contains
accounts of its transactions from 16l2 to 1758, but not
regularly or continuously.

Kilwinning is also remarkable for its continuation to
the present time, almost uninterruptedly, of that practice
of archery which was anciently enjoined by acts of the
Scots parliament on the young men of every parish. Its
company of archers is known, though imperfectly, and
only by tradition, to have existed prior to 1488 ; but
from that year downward, they are authenticated by
documents. Originally enrolled by royal authority, they
appear to have been encouraged by the inmates of the
abbey ; and they, in consequence, instituted customs
which easily secured their surviving the discontinuance
of archery as the principal art of war. Once a year, in
the month of July, they make a grand exhibition. The
principal shooting is at a parrot, anciently called the
papingo, and well known under that name ic heraldry,
but now called the popinjay. This used to be con-
structed of wood ; but in recent years has consisted of
feathers worked up into the semblance of a parrot ; and
is suspended by a string to the top of a pole, and placed
120 feet high, on the steeple of the town. The archer
who shoots down this mark is called ' the Captain of the
Popinjay ; ' and is master of the ceremonies of the suc-
ceeding year. Every person acquainted with Sir Walter
Scott's novels, will recognise the Kilwinning festival,
transferred to a difi"erent arena, in the opening scene of
Old Mortality, when young Milnwood achieves the
honours of Captain of the Popinjay, and becomes bound
to do the honours of the Howtf. Another kind of
shooting is practised for prizes at butts, point-blank
distance, about 26 yards. The prize, in this case, is
some useful or ornamental piece of plate, given annually
to the company by the senior surviving archer.

The parish of Kilwinning, containing also the villages
of Fergushill, Doura, Dalgarven, Bensley, and Eglinton
Ironworks, is bounded N by Dairy, NE by Beith, E by
Stewarton, SE and S by Irvine, S W by Stevenston, and
W by Ardrossan. Its utmost length, from NNE to SSW,
is 5| miles ; its utmost breadth is 5| miles ; and its area is
11,069 acres, of which 79^ are water. The river Gak-
NOCK here winds 6J miles southward, first If mile
along the Dairy border, next 4^ miles through the in-
terior, and lastly f mile along the Irvine border. Caaf
Water, its affluent, runs 1 mile eastward along the
northern boundary ; and Lugton Water, after tracing
3§ miles of the boundary with Stewarton, meanders 4^
miles south-westward through the interior till it falls
into the Garnock at a point 1 mile SSE of the town.
A triangular lake, called Ashenyard or Ashgrove Loch
(^ X ^ mile) lies at the meeting-point with Stevenston
and Ardrossan. The land surface slopes gradually up-
ward from the SW to the NE, and, including flat tracts
along the Garnock and Lugton Water, is diversified by
gentle undulations, but nowhere exceeds 310 feet above
sea-level. It exhibits great wealth of wood and culture ;
and commands, from numerous vantage-grounds, ex-
quisite views of the eastern seaboards, the wide waters,
and the western mountain screens of the Firth of
Clyde. The rocks throughout are carboniferous, with
intersections of trap dyke. Good building sandstone is
quarried ; limestone, ironstone, and coal are largely
worked ; and clay is used for making tiles and bricks.
The soil of nearly one-half of the cultivated lands is a
stiff clay, and that of most of the remainder is a light
sandy loam. From one-fourth to one-third of the entire
area is under the plough ; a good many hundreds of

KINBRACE

acres are under wood ; a considerable aggregate in the
upper district is moss ; and all the rest of the land is
disposed in field pasture, subordinate to the dairy. Dis-
tinguished persons connected with the parish have been
the Earls of Eglinton, the abbot Gavin Hamilton, and
the ministers John Glassford, Principal Baillie, James
Fergusson, Professor Meldrum, Principal George Chal-
mers, and Professor William Ritchie. Eglinton Castle,
noticed separately, is the chief mansion, others lieing
Ashgrove and Montgreenan ; and, besides the Earl of
Eglinton, 6 lesser proprietors hold each an annual value
of £500 and upwards, 24 of between £100 and £500, 24
of from £50 to £100, and 55 of from £20 to £50. Kil-
winning is in the presbytery of Irvine and synod of
Glasgow and Ayr ; the living is worth £495. An
Established chapel of ease, containing 500 sittings,
was built at Fergushill in 1880. Auchentiber public,
Fergushill public, Kilwinning public, and Eglinton
Ironworks school, with respective accommodation for
110, 237, 700, and 330 children, had (1881) an average
attendance of 73, 170, 437, and 324, and grants of
£59, 15s., £141, Is., £382, 7s. 6d., and £283, 13s.
Valuation (1860) £23,367, (1883) £31,337, Is., plus
£8536 for railways. Pop. (1801) 2700, (1831) 3772,
(1861) 7717, (1871) 7375, (1881) 7037.— Ord Sur., sh.
22, 1865. See Robert Wylie's History of the Motlier
Lodge, Kiliuinning, withi Notes on the Abbey (Glasg.
1878), and the Rev. W. Lee Ker's Kilwinning Abbey.
(Ardrossan, 1883).

Kimelford. See Kilmelfort.

Kimmerghame, an estate, with a mansion, in Edrom^
parish, Berwickshire, near the right bank of Blackadder
Water, 3 miles SE of Duns. A handsome Scottish
Baronial edifice, erected in 1851 from designs by the
late David Bryce, R.S.A., it is the seat of Archibald
Campbell-Swinton, Esq., LL.D. (b. 1812 ; sue. 1867),
Professor of Civil Law in Edinburgh University from
1842 to 1862, who holds 1845 acres in the shire, valued
at £3888 per annum.— Ore?. Sur., sh. 26, 1864.

Kinairdy, an ancient castellated mansion in Marnoch
parish, Banffshire, on a promontory at the confluence of
the Burn of Auchintoul with the Deveron, 2| miles
SSW of Aberchirder. Built partly at a very early
period, partly at several subsequent dates, it soars
aloft, in tower-like form, from its picturesque and com-
manding site ; and, together with much surrounding
property, it belonged to the Crichtons of Frendraught,
from whom it passed to the Earls of Fife. — Ord. 8ur.,
sh. 86, 1876.

Kinaldie, a modern cottage orn^e in the NE comer of
Kinellar parish, Aberdeenshire, near the left bank of
the Don and 1^ furlong ENE of Kinaldie station on the
Great North of Scotland railway, this being 10 J miles
NW of Aberdeen, under which there is a post office of
Kinaldie.— OrcZ. Sur., sh. 77, 1873.

Kinaldy, an estate, with a mansion, in Cameron parisli,
Fife, 4 miles S of St Andrews. Its owner, John Purvis,
Esq. (b. 1820 ; sue. 1844), holds 749 acres in the shire,
valued at £1321 per annum. — Ord. Sur., sh, 41,
1857.

Kinbattoch, a farm in Towie parish, W Aberdeen-
shire, 1 mile SW of the church. Some tumuli here
were opened in 1750, and found to enclose urns, trinkets,
and Roman medals ; and here too are an ancient arti-
ficial mound (once surrounded by a moat) and ruins of a
pre-Reformation chapel.

Kinbeachie, an estate, with a handsome modern man-
sion, in Resells parish, Ross-shire, near the SE shore
of the Cromarty Firth, 5 miles SW of Invergordon.
Kinbeachie Loch (2^ x 1 J furl.) sends forth the Burn
of Resolis.

Kinbattoch. See Kinbattoch.

Kinblethmont, an estate, with a modern mansion, in
Inverkeilor parish, Forfarshire, 4g miles N of Arbroath.
Its owner, Henry Alexander Lindsay-Carnegie, Esq. of
Boysack (1). 1836 ; sue. 1860), holds 3670 acres in the
shire, valued at £5172 jjer annum. — Ord. Sur., sh. 57,
1868.

Kinbrace. See Kildonan.

389

KINBROON

Einbroon, a modern mansion in Fyvie parish, Aber-
deenshire, 5 furlongs SSW of Rothie-Norman station.

Kinbuck. See Dunblane.

Kincaid House, a mansion in Campsie parish, Stirling-
shire, J mile SSW of Milton.

Kincairney, an estate, with a mansion and a village,
in Caputh parish, Perthshire. The mansion, 5 miles
ENE of Dunkeld, is the seat of AVilliam Ellis Gloag,
Esq. (b. 1828), who holds 529 acres in the shire, valued
at £706 per annum ; and the village stands 1 mile
nearer Dunkeld.— Orc^. Sur., sh. 56, 1870.

Kincaldrum, a mansion in Inverarity parish, Forfar-
shire, on the NE slope of wooded Kincaldrum Hill, 5
miles SSW of Forfar. It is the seat of the Right Hon.
William-Edward Baxter (b. 1825 ; sue. 1871), Liberal
M.P. for the Montrose Burghs since 1855, who holds
581 acres in Forfarshire and 1201 in Fife, valued at
£880 and £3287 per annum. --Orc^. Sicr., sh. 57, 1868.
See KiLMARON Castle.

Eincaple, an estate, with a mansion and a village, in
St Andrews parish, Fife, 3 miles WNW of the city.

Kincardine, a large parish of N Ross and Cromarty,
containing to the E the village of Ardgay, with a post
and telegraph office, and with Bonar-Bridge station on
the Highland railway, 13| miles WNW of Tain, and
39i N by E of Dingwall. It is bounded NE by Creich
in Sutherland and'by the head of Dornoch Firth, E by
Edderton, S by Rosskeen, Alness, Fodderty, and Contin,
and S W and W by Lochbroom. Its utmost length, from
E to W, is 22^ miles ; its width, contracting to a
point at the extremities, elsewhere varies between 3|
and 21J miles ; and its area is 239 square miles, or
153,054 acres. The Oikell, rising at the NW corner
and at an altitude of 1500 feet, winds 35^ miles south-
eastward and east-south-eastward along all the Suther-
land boundary, through Loch Ailsh (7 x 4J furl. ; 498
feet) and the Kyle of Sutherland to the head of Dor-
noch Firth at Bonar-Bridge. Of its twenty tributaries
from Kincardine parish, the chief is the Einig, formed
by two head-streams, and running 4 miles east-north-
eastward to a point | mile below Oikell Bridge ; whilst
the Carron, formed by three head-streams, runs 9
miles east-by-northward to the Kyle at a point | mile
above Bonar-Bridge. Of thirty-three lakes, besides
Loch Ailsh, the largest are Crom Loch (6 x 3J furl. ;
1720 feet) on the Fodderty border, and Loch Craggie
(5 J X 11 furl. ; 507 feet) in the NW interior. The sur-
face is everywhere hilly or mountainous, chief elevations
westward and north-westward being Blar Carvary (864
feet), *Cnoc Leathadona Siorramachd (1845), Lamenta-
tion Hill (600), Carn Bhren (2080), Breac Bheinn (1516),
*Carn Chuinncag (2749), Beinn Ulamhie (1616), Bodach
Mor (2689), Carn Loch Sruban Mora (2406), and * Brea-
bag (2338), where asterisks mark those summits that
culminate on the southern and western confines of
the parish. Granite and sandstone are the predomi-
nant rocks ; and precious stones are found upon Carn
Chuinneag, exactly similar to those of the Cairngorm
Mountains. On the Invercharron estate there is a small
tract of very fine arable land, with rich alluvial soil ;
and in 1847, after the potato disease, the greater part of
Ul»per Gledfield farm, extending to 180 acres, was brought
under cultivation, in pursuance of the reclamation scheme
of Sir Alex. Matheson of Ardross ( Toxins. Highl. and Ag.
/S'oc. , 1877, pp. 153, 154). Agriculture, however, is prac-
ticable over only a small proportion of the land area ; and
sheep-farming constitutes the staple occupation. There
is a pier at the Bridge of Bonar, where ships are moored
and discharge their cargoes. A sanguinary contest,
called the battle of Tuiteam-Tarliliach, was fought in
this parish, about 1397, between the Macleods and the
Mackays ; and near Culrain station, 4 miles NW of
Ardgay, Montrose, with 1200 Cavaliers, Germans, and
undrilled Orcadians, was routed by 230 horse and 170
foot under Lieut. -Colonel Strachan, 27 A\m\ 1650. The
battle-field bears the name of Craigcaoincadhan or
Lamentation Hill, but tlie conflict itself is commonly
known as the battle of Invercharron. More tlian 600
of his men made ]irisoners, and 396 slain, the great
390

KINCARDINE

Marquis disguised himself as a common Highlander, and,
swimming across the Kyle, fled up Strath Oikell to
AssYNT, where three days later he was taken captive.
Antiquities are remains of several dunes, cairns, and
stone circles, and a sculptured stone in the churchyard.
The principal residences, M-ith their distance from Ard-
gay, are Invercharron House (2 miles N by W), Gled-
field House (14 W), Culrain Lodge (3^ NNW), Brae-
langwell Lodge (6 W by N), Amat Lodge (9 W), Alla-
dale Lodge (13 W by S), Achnahannet Lodge (9J NW),
and luveroikell Lodge (lOf NW). Sir Charles Ross of
Balnagowan holds nearly half of the entire rental, 2
other proprietors hold each an annual value of between
£1200 and £1870, 3 of between £600 and £800, and 8
of between £100 and £350. Giving off the quoad sacra
parish of Croick, Kincardine is in the presbytery of Tain
and synod of Ross ; the living is worth £324. The
parish church, near the shore of Dornoch Firth, 7 fur-
longs SSE of Bonar-Bridge station, was built in 1799,
and contains 600 sittings. There are Free churches of
Kincardine and Croick ; and 4 new public schools —
Achnahannet, Croick, Culrain, and Gledfield — with
respective accommodation for 40, 35, 50, and 110 chil-
dren, had (1881) an average attendance of 25, 17, 27,
and 67, and grants of £53, 6s. 6d., £31, Os. 6d., £36,
lis. 6d., and £66, 3s. 6d. Valuation (1860) £6860,
(1882) £13,754, plus £848 for railway. Pop. (1801)
1865, (1841) 2108, (1861) 1746, (1871) 1685, (1881)
1472, of whom 1116 were Gaelic-speaking, and 1256
belonged to Kincardine ecclesiastical parish. — Ord.
Sur., shs. 102, 93, 92, 101, 1881-82.

Kincardine, a parish in Menteith district, S Perth-
shire, containing the villages of Blaik-Drummond and
Thoenhill, each with a post office under Stirling, and
extending southward to Gargunnock station, northward
to within 7 furlongs of Donne station. It comprises a
main body and the Thornhill or detached section,
separated from each other by a strip of Kilmadock
parish, 2 miles broad, and both washed by the Forth
on the S, on the N by the Teith. The main body,
triangular in outline, is bounded NE by Kilmadock and
Lecropt, E by St Ninians in Stirlingshire, S by St
Ninians and Gargunnock, and W by Kilmadock ; and
has an utmost length from E to W of 4| miles, with an
utmost breadth from N to S of 3f miles. The detached
portion, measuring 5| miles from N to S, by from 5^
furlongs to 1| mile, is bounded N and E by Kilmadock,
S by Kippen in Stirlingshire, and W by Port of Menteith.
The area of the entire parish is 10,659| acres, of which
3606^ belong to the detached district, and 155^ are
water. The Forth meanders in serpentine folds 7 fur-
longs eastward along the S border of the detached
portion, and, lower down, llg miles along all the
Gargunnock and St Ninians boundary of the main
body ; its affluent, the arrowy Teith, hurries 9 furlongs
along the N border of the Thornhill section, and 44
miles south-eastward along all the north-eastern boim-
dary of the main body ; whilst Goodie Water, another
tributary of the Forth, flows If mile east-south-eastward
across the detached portion. In the extreme E, at the
confluence of the Forth and the Teith, the surface
declines to 34 feet above sea-level, and the greater part
of the main body is low and almost flat, only in the
NW, near LocJi Watston, attaining an altitude of 205
feet. The northern half of the Thornhill section is
somewhat hillier, and rises to 400 feet near the Muir
Damon, a ridge which, lying in the widest part of the
strath of Menteith, is the centre of a magnificent land-
scape, screened in the distance by Ben Lomond, Ben
Ledi, Ben Vorlich, Stuc a Cliroin, the Ochils, and the
Lennox Hills. The ])redominant rocks are Devonian,
and sandstone has been quarried. The soil of the carse
is a rich blue clay, incumbent on a bed of gravel ; that
of the dryfield is a light loam, formerly encumbered
with boulders, but now entirely cleared. The carse
has, at various depth.s, many thin beds of shells, parti-
cularly oy.sters ; and nearly half of it till 1706 was
covered with a deej) bog, called ]'>lair-Drummond or
Kincardine Moss, but by the ingenious removal of the

KINCARDINE

KINCARDINE O'NEIL

moss piecemeal into the Forth, had in 1839 been con-
verted into highly fertile land. "Woods and plantations
cover some 400 acres, 650 acres are in permanent pas-
tm-e, and nearly all the rest of the parish is under the
plough. Antiquities are a tumulus, called Wallace's
Trench, 63 yai'ds in circumference, near Blair-Drummoud
East Lodge ; two other tumuli, respectively 92 and 150
yards in circumference, within Blair-Drummond garden ;
an eminence, the Gallow Hill, ^ mile from Blair-Drum-
mond House ; and a standing stone, 5 feet high and 12
in circumference, on the summit of Borland Hill ; whilst
bronze implements, a considerable reach of Roman i-oad,
and a portion of the skeleton of a whale, were found on
the carse lands in the course of the removal of the
superincumbent moss. Robert Wallace, D.D. (1697-
1771), statistical writer, and the Rev. Alex. Bryce
(1713-86), geometrician, were natives. Blair-Drummond
and Ochtertyre, both noticed separately, are the chief
residences. Giving off since 1877 its Tliornhill section
to NoRiusTON quoad sacra parish, Kincardine is in the
presbytery of Dunblane and synod of Perth and Stirling ;
the living is worth £335. The parish church, 2 miles S
by AV of Doune, was built in 1814-16, and is a handsome
Perpendicular edifice, with 770 sittings and four stained-
glass windows ; its ancient predecessor belonged to
Cambuskenneth Abbey. Three public schools — Blair-
Drummond, Kincardine, and Thornhill — with respective
accommodation for 75, 142, and 157 children, had (1881)
an average attendance of 22, 60, and 85, and grants of
£28, Is., £57, 19s., and £71, 15s. Valuation (1860)
£14,657, (1883) £15,938, 5s. lOd. Pop. (1801) 2212,
(1831) 2456, (1861) 1778, (1871) 1484, (1881) 1351, of
whom 716 were in the ecclesiastical parish. — Ord. Siir.,
sh. 39, 1869.

Kincardine, a small seaport town in TuUiallan parish,
SE Perthshire (detached), on low flat ground on the
left or NE bank of the river Forth, 3 miles S by W of
Kincardine station on the Stirling and Dunfermline
section of the North British, this being 3 4 miles E of
Alloa and lOJ WNW of Dunfermline. Occupying one
of the best situations on the Forth, with a good quay
and a roadstead 21 feet deep, where 100 vessels may
ride in safety, it once, and for a long period, was the
seat of commerce for nearly all places round the head
of the Firth of Forth, precisely as Leith and Burnt-
island are the seats of commerce for nearly all places
round the southern and northern sides of the lower
parts of the Firth. It commands a safe ferry, h mile
wide, across tlie Forth ; and, prior to the railway era,
was the grand ferry station between Fife and Kinross-
shire on the one hand, and all the SW of Scot-
land on the other. Seventy years ago it carried on
shipbuilding to so great an extent as sometimes to have
from twelve to fifteen vessels on the stocks at once ; and
it still has a few ships, a rope and sail work, and two
woollen factories ; but its former extensive distillery,
brewery, salt works, and collieries are now extinct or
exhausted. It is a regular place of call for steamers on
the passage between Stirling and Grantou ; ranks as a
burgh of barony, under government of three bailies ;
and is the seat of a sheriff small debt court on the first
Monday of February, May, August, and November. It
contains some good, modern, slated, two-story or three-
story houses, but chiefly consists of red-tiled cottages ;
its environs are pleasant, with the ruins of Tulliallan
Castle, its modern successor, and some good villas ; but
the town itself presents a very irregular alignment, and
an unattractive appearance. At it are a post oifice
under Alloa, with money order, savings' bank, insur-
ance, and telegraph departments, a branch of the Union
Bank, 6 insurance agencies, gasworks, 2 inns, and 3
schools. Tulliallan parish church, built in 1833 at a
cost of £3400, is an elegant edifice, and contains 1176
sittings. A Free church contains 470, and a U.P.
church, built in 1819 at a cost of £1200, contains 800
sittings. The distinguished chemist. Prof. James Dewar,
F.R.S., was born at Kincardine in 1842. Two embank-
ments were completed in 1823 and 1839, on the W and
E sides of the town, for reclaiming valuable land from

the tidal waters of the Forth. That on the W side is
11 feet high and 2020 yards long, cost £6104, and
reclaimed 152 acres ; while that on the E side is 16 feet
high and 3040 yards long, cost nearly £14,000, and
reclaimed 214 acres. Pop. (1841) 2875, (1851) 2697,
(1861) 2169, (1871) 1983, (1881) 1985, of whom 1141
were females. Houses (1881) 506 inhabited, 55 vacant,
4 building.— Or^^. Sur., sh. 39, 1869.

Kincardine, a quondam town in Fordoun parish,
Kincardineshire, near the right bank of Ferdun Water,
44 miles NW of Laurencekirk, and 2 NE of Fetter-
cairn. Near it, on a wooded eminence 30 feet high, are
remains of a royal palace, whose walls, at no point ex-
ceeding 8 feet in height, consist of chisel-hewn but
mostly hammer-dressed stones of a hard and durable
sandstone. The ground plan may still be traced ; and
it seems to have measured 36 yards square, with an
inner quadrangle, filled more or less with buildings.
Some make this palace the scene of the murder of
Kenneth III. in 994 (see Fexella) ; and it is known to
have been a residence of William the Lyon (1166-1214),
of Alexander III. (1249-85), of Edward I. of England
in 1296, and of Robert II. in 1383. In 1532 the fourth
Earl Marischal obtained a charter for making the town
of Kincardine ' the principal and capital burgh of the
county ; ' but less than eighty years after the sheriff
and his deputes petitioned for the removal of the courts
to Stonehaven, Kincardine possessing neither tolbooth
nor hostelry. At the same time its fair, St Catherine's,
was transferred to Fettercairn, whither also its
market cross (1670) was removed a century later ; and
now the memory of Kincardine is preserved only by the
vestiges of its palace, by the graveyard of its ancient
kirk of St Catherine, and by such names in its vicinity
as the ' King's Park,' ' Chancellor's Park,' and ' King's
Deer.' — Ord. Sur., sh. 66, 1871. See chap. v. of
Andrew Jervise's Memorials of Angus and the Mearns
(Edinb. 1861), and app. xvi. of his Land of the Lindsays
(2ded., Edinb., 1882).

Kincardine, Inverness-shire. See Abernethy.

Kincardine, an estate, with a romantic glen, a
modern mansion, and a ruined castle, on the E border
of Blackford parish, Perthshire. The glen extends
2^ miles north-eastward to the vicinity of Auch-
terarder ; is traversed by Ruthven Water and by
the Scottish Central section of the Caledonian railway ;
and contains stupendous railway works, including a six-
arched viaduct rising nearly 100 feet above the level of
the stream. Modern Kincardine Castle, IJ mile S of
Auchterarder, is approached by an avenue that passes
along the copse-clad banks of the glen ; it is a neat
edifice in the castellated style. The ancient castle,
farther up the glen, crowned a promontory overlook-
ing scenery similar to that around Hawthornden House.
It formed a strong and spacious quadrangle ; but,
having been dismantled by the Earl of Argyll in 1645,
it is now represented by a mere fragment of wall and
some vestiges of a moat. About the middle of the 13tli
century Malise, Earl of Strathearn, conferred the lands
of Kincardine on Sir David de Graham, to whose
descendant, the Duke of Montrose, they give the title
of Earl of Kincardine (ere. \QU).—Ord. Sur., sh. 39,
1869.

Kincardine O'Neil, a village and a parish of S Aber-
deenshire. The village stands, 234 feet above sea-level,
near the left bank of the Dee, 2 miles ESE of Dess
station and 2| SW of Torphins station, this being 24
miles W by S of Aberdeen. It has a post office under
Aberdeen, with money order and savings' bank depart-
ments, an hotel, and fairs on the second Tuesday of
May 0. s. and the Wednesday and Thm-sday after the
last Tuesday of August o. s.

The parish, containing also Torphins village and
station, is bounded NW by Tough, NE hy Cluny and
Midmar, E and SE by Banchory-Ternan in Kincardine-
shire, SW by Birse, and W by Aboyne and Luuiphanan.
Its utmost length, from N to S, is Sg miles ; its utmost
width, from E to W, is 7 miles ; and its area is 18,260|
acres, of which 16i are water. The Dee winds 4g miles

391

KINCARDINESHIRE

KINCARDINESHIRE

south-eastward along all the south-western border, being
spanned, 1| mile SSE of the village, by the three-arched
Bridge of Potarch (1812); and the interior is drained
to the Dee by Belty Burn and several lesser rivulets.
The surface may be described as comprising three straths
or parts of straths, together with considerable flanking
hills, and attains 700 feet at Sluie Woods, 655 at the
Hill of Belty, 800 at Ord Fundlie, 1545 at the *Hill of
Faee, 1000 at Learney Hill, and 1621 at *Benaquhallie
or CORRENNIE, where asterisks mark those summits
that culminate on the confines of the parish. The
rocks include granite, trap, and sandstone ; and the soils
range from fertile alluvium to barren moor. Since the
beginning of the present century reclamation of waste
land has added fully 600 acres to the arable area ; and
general agricultural improvement has made correspond-
ing progress. Plantations of larch and Scotch fir still
cover a large area, though a good many of the older
trees have been cut down of recent years. Natives were
Alexander Ross (1699-1784), a minor poet, and the
'Wizardof the North,' John Henry Anderson (1814-74).
The principal mansions are Kincardine Lodge, Learney,
and Desswood ; and 9 proprietors hold each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 5 of between £100 and
£500, and 2 of from £20 to £50. Giving oft' since 1875
the quoad sacra parish of Torphins, Kincardine O'Neil
is the seat of a presbytery in the synod of Aberdeen ;
the living is worth £372. The parish church, rebuilt
about 1863, is situated in the middle of the village,
at the W end of which stands Episcopal Christ Church,
a Pointed edifice of 1865-66, with 100 sittings. At
Craigmyle, 7 furlongs ESE of Torphins station, is a
Free church; and four public schools — Greeuburn,
Kincardine O'Neil, Tornaveen, and Torphins — with
respective accommodation for 69, 130, 90, and 143
children, had (1881) an average attendance of 37, 110,
69, and 102, and grants of £31, 16s., £103, 9s., £51, 10s.,
and £95, 17s. Valuation (1860) £9042, (1882) £11,583,
8s., plus £940 for railway. Pop. (1801) 1710, (1831)
1936, (1861) 2186, (1871) 2000, (1881) 1931, of whom
1101 were in the ecclesiastical parish. — Ord. Sur., shs.
66, 76, 1871-74.

The presbytery of Kincardine O'Neil comprises the
old parishes of Aboyne, Banchory-Ternan, Birse, Cluny,
Coull, Crathie and Braemar, Echt, Glenmuick, Kin-
cardine O'Neil, Logie-Coldstone, Lumphanan, Midmar,
Strachan, and Tarland-Migvie, the quoad sacra parishes
of Braemar, Dinnet, Glengairn, and Torphins, and the
chapelry of Finzean. Pop. (1871) 19,653, (1881) 19,182,
of whom 7044 were communicants of the Church of
Scotland in 1878. — The Free Church also has a presby-
tery of Kincardine O'Neil, with churches at Aboyne,
Ballater, Banchory-Ternan, Braemar, Cluny, Crathie,
Cromar, Echt, Kincardine O'Neil, Lumphanan, Midmar,
Strachan, and Tarland, which 13 churches together had
1692 communicants in 1883.

Kincardineshire (often called The Mearns), a mari-
time county on the eastern seaboard of Scotland. It is
bounded N and NW by Aberdeenshire, E by the Ger-
man Ocean, and SW by Forfarshire. Its outline is an
irregular triangle, with the NE angle at the mouth of
the river Dee, the S angle at the mouth of the river
North Esk, and the W angle between Mount Battock
and the Hill of Caramie, where the boundaries of For-
farshire, Aberdeenshire, and Kincardineshire all meet.
The length of the E side is 30^ miles, that of the SW
side ISf, and that of the NW side 29^ — all the measure-
ments being in straight lines. Following the main
windings, the distance along the sea-coast is about 35
miles, and along the other two sides the distances would
be fully one-third more than those just given. From
the mouth of the North Esk the boundary follows the
mid bed of that river for a distance of 15 miles from the
mouth, and then takes a northerly course by Manach
Hill to Sturdy Hill, from which it follows the water-
shed between Glen Esk and Glen Dye to a point about
1 mile NW of Mount Battock at Loch Tennet. From
this it follows the course of the Water of Aven till it
joins the Feugh Water, down which it runs for about
392

^ mile. The line then passes irregularly to the N and
NW across the Dee on to the Hill of Fare, thence

4 miles E, and then in an irregular line S back to the
Dee near Durris Church, and thereafter it follows the
mid bed of the river for 14| miles to its mouth at Aber-
deen. The greater part of the coast-line is bold and
rocky, the cliffs often rising to over 200 feet, and pre-
senting many picturesque features, particularly along
the line of conglomerate cliffs to the S of Stonehaven.
The area of the county is 383 '4 square miles or 248,195
acres, of which 1463 are inland waters and 1385 are
foreshore. Of the land surface of 245,347 acres, 120,676
were under cultivation in 1882 and 27,880 were under
wood, an increase in the former case of 46,299 acres
since the beginning of the century and of 30,505 within
the last twenty-five years, and in the latter case of
11,228 acres within the last twenty-five years. There
are about 6000 acres of permanent j^astui'e, and the rest
is rough hill pasture or heath, a considerable proportion
being devoted to grouse and deer. The mean summer
temperature is 58°, and the mean winter temperature
37° ; while rain or snow falls on an average on 190 days
in the year, the mean depth being 32^ inches. Among
the counties of Scotland Kincardineshire is twenty-first
as regards area, twenty-fourth as regards population,
and twentieth as regards valuation. The county falls
naturally into five subdivisions — the Grampian district,
the northern coast district, the southern coast district,
the Howe of the Mearns — a continuation northwards
of the valley of Strathmore (see Forfarshire) — and the
Deeside district.

The Grampian region embraces the eastern termina-
tion of the Grampians, extends across the county from
Mount Battock (2555 feet) on the W till the sea is reached
near Muchals, and separates the Deeside district from
the Howe of the Mearns. To the E of Mount Battock
is Clachnaben (1944 feet), with, rising near its summit,
a curious mass of rock, which looks from the sea like a
watch-tower, and forms an excellent landmark. Farther
E is Kerloch (1747 feet), from which there is an excellent
view of the greater part of Aberdeenshire, and from
which it is possible to see as far S as the Lammermuir
Hills. To the NE is Cairnmonearn (1245 feet), with its
slopes almost covered with great masses of granite.
ESE of Mount Battock is Cairn-o'-Mount (1488 feet),
over the eastern shoulder of which is the public road from
the Howe of the Mearns to Deeside. As the summits
approach the coast they gradually get lower, till, about
3 miles from the sea, they average from 500 to 600 feet
high, and from this they slope gradually down till they
terminate in rocky coast heights of from 100 to 200 feet.
The district is about 18 miles long and from 6 to 8 wide.
It comprises about 85,400 acres, and is very rugged,
dreary, and sterile, though there are here and there
some picturesque glens.

From this district the northern and southern coast
regions are offshoots to the N and S respectively. The
former contains 30,750 acres, and extends from Girdle-
ness to the neighbourhood of Stonehaven, with an
average breadth of 3 miles. There is a bold rocky
shore, with cliffs varying in height from 100 to 300
feet ; but, except in the neighbourhood of Aberdeen and
Stonehaven, the region is very bleak. The southern
coast district, with an area of 58,190 acres, extends
from Stonehaven to the mouth of the North Esk, and
has an average breadth of from 4 to 5 miles. Although
the heights between Stonehaven and Bervie are some-
what bare, the land is well cultivated, and the aspect is
much less bleak than in the northern district. To the

5 of Stonehaven is the range of cliffs known as the
Fowlsheugh, noted as the summer dwelling-place of
immense numbers of sea birds. Beyond Johnshaven
the heights retire farther from the coast, leaving a strip
of fertile land in some places 3 miles wide, and gradually
rising into the green ridge known as Garvock Hill (915
feet), forming a continuation of the Sidlaws. Between
the GraTupians on the SW and the heights of Garvock
and Arbuthnott on the NE is the northern portion of
the great valley of Stratlimore, which is in this county

EINCARDINESniBE

known as the Howe of the Mearns. The length of this
district is about 16 miles, and its breadth gradually
narrows from 5 miles at the W till it runs out at Stone-
haven. It contains 34,340 acres. Sheltered by high
grounds from the ungenial N and E winds, it is a fertile
and highly cultivatcd'country, with thriving plantations,
good farms, and a considerable number of gentlemen's
seats. The soil is of a bright red colour, which gives
the surface when newly ploughed a very peculiar, but
rich and warm, appearance. The Howe constitutes the
main line of access between the N and SE of Scotland.

The Deeside district extends from the sea westward
along the southern bank of the Dee for over 14 miles,
and then along both banks for about 8 miles. It com-
prehends also the valley of the Feugh. The area is
36,667 acres. The district is peculiarly favourable to
the growth of timber, and there are large and thriving
plantations, which in many cases extend to the summits
of the adjacent hills. At Banchory, where the county
occupies both sides of the Dee, the scenery along the
river is good.

As will be seen from this outline the surface of the
county is considerably diversified. The highest summit
of the Grampian range in the county is Mount Battock
(2555 feet), and the other principal summits are Sturdy
Hill (1784), Kerloch (1747), Hound Hillock (1698),
Whitelaws (1664), Mount Shade (1662), Goyle Hill
(1527), Cairn -o'- Mount (1488), Fenella Hill (1358),
Cairnmonearn (1245), Mongour (1232), Hill of Trusta
(1051), Craig of Dalfro (1042). In the coast tract be-
tween Stonehaven and the mouth of the North Esk are
Clochna Hill (638 feet), Bruxie Hill (710), Law of Lum
(492), Leys Hill (495), Knox Hill (523), and Hill of Mor-
phie (486). There are a few small lochs in the county, the
chief being the Loch of Drum (6x2 furl. , formerly 3
times as large) near the centre of the N side, and Loir-
stone Loch (2 X 1 furl.) near the NE corner. Leys
Loch is now drained. It contained a crannoge, traces
of which still remain. The drainage of the part of the
county to the N" of the Grampians is effected by means
of the Dee and its tributaries. After that river enters
Kincardineshire the first stream of importance that it
receives is the "Water of Feugh, which joins it a little
above Banchory, after itself receiving the Water of Aven
and the Water of Dye. At the church of Durris the
Dee is joined by the Burn of Sheeoch, and, farther
down, about a mile below Peterculter Church, by Cry-
noch Burn. The part of the Grampians immediately to
the W of Stonehaven is drained by Cowie Water,
Cakron Water, and Bervie Water, of which the first
two enter the sea at Stonehaven, and the last at Bervie.
In the coast district N of Stonehaven are the small
burns of Elsick and Muchalls. The district S of Stone-
haven has, besides the Bervie Water, also the smaller
burns of Caterline, Benholm, Fepella, and Lauriston ;
near the mouth of the second last is a prettily wooded
rock glen with a lofty waterfall. The SW end of the
Howe of the Mearns is drained by the Black Burn, Dom-ie
Burn, and Luther Water flowing into the North Esk.
There are a number of small local burns flowing into
all of these streams, particularly the Dye and the Cowie.
The Dee and North Esk are valiiable salmon rivers, and
in many of the smaller streams there is excellent trout
fishing.

Geology. — The area occupied by the ancient crystalline
rocks in Kincardineshire lies to the N of the great fault
which bounds the Old Red Sandstone formation. Tbis
line extends from near Edzell, NE by Fenella Hill, to
Craigeven Bay, about 1 mile N of Stonehaven. The
synclinal fold which traverses the crystalline rocks in
Forfarshire is also traceable across this county. As we
ascend the sections in the North Esk and Cowie rivers,
green and grey slates and shales are seen dipping towards
the NW at high angles, which are succeeded by crystal-
line micaceous grits and mica schists. On the N side
of the synclinal axis the same beds reappear with a SE
inclination, but in a still more highly altered form. By
means of repeateil undulations they spread over the
northern part of the county towards the valley of the
62

KINCARDINESHIRE

Dee. A traverse along the rugged and rocky cliff" be-
tween Stonehaven and Aberdeen furnishes admirable
opportunities for the examination of the lithological
varieties of these crystalline rocks, and the numerous
flexures by which they are repeated. From the great
fault in Craigeven Bay, near Stonehaven, to a point
about 1^ mile to the N, there is a regular ascending series
through green and grey slates, with bands of "pebbly
grit which are overlaid by contorted mica schists and
micaceous quartzites. In the neighbourhood of Much-
alls Castle the latter beds are repeated by gentle undu-
lations, and at Skateraw they are inclined to the W or
N of W, while from Portlethen to Findon there is a
general dip to the S or SSE. In the eastern portion of
the county no limestones are associated with the crystal-
line series, but, near Banchory and also near Lochlee in
the adjacent county, some bands of limestone occur
which are probably on the same horizon as the calcareous
series of Loch Earn and Loch Tay. An important
feature connected with these crystalline rocks is the oc-
currence of masses of granite in their midst. From the
gradual disappearance of the foliation in the micaceous
gneiss as we approach the margin of the granite, it is
probable that the granitic masses may be the result of
extreme metamorphism. B}' far the largest area of
granite extends along the watershed of the county from
Mount Battock E to Cairnmonearn Hill, biit, besides this
mass, there are several small bosses on the S side of the
Dee iDetwecn IMaryculter and Aberdeen. The granite to
the S of the Dee, which has been largely quarried for
building purposes, is coarsely crystalline, of a grey colour,
and is composed of the normal constituents — quartz,
felspar, and black mica. Veins and dykes of this rock
also occur throughout the county in the midst of the
stratified crystalline series.

The geological structure of the Old Red Sandstone
formation in Kincardineshire has a close resemblance to
that in the adjacent county of Forfar. (See Geology of
Forfarshire, Ord. Gaz., vol. II., p. 40.) The great syn-
clinal fold which travei'ses Strathmore runs E to the
shore at Crawton, while the N limb of the anticlinal fold
of tlie Sidlaws extends along the shore between St Cyrus
and Kinneft'. In Kincardineshire, however, there is a
great thickness of strata belonging to this formation
which occupy a lower position than any met with in
Forfarshire. This subdivision, which immediately
underlies the volcanic series, is admirably displayed in
the shore section at Stonehaven. By means of the great
fault which bounds the Old Red Sandstone formation
along the flanks of the Grampians the members of this
subdivision are brought into conjunction with the cry-
stalline rocks in Craigeven Baj^ about 1 mile N of Stone-
haven. The base of the Old Red Sandstone, therefore,
is nowhere visible in this county. The strata consist
of red sandstones and flags, with purple clays and shales
which are either vertical or highly inclined to the E of
S, and as they extend along the shore to the Bellman's
Head S of Stonehaven, it is evident that their thickness
must be about 5000 feet. Notwithstanding the great
thickness of tlie members of this series, it is important
to note that when they are followed inland in a WSW
direction they are abruptly truncated by the great fault
already referred to. Not far to the S of Stonehaven the
highest beds of this subdivision pass conformably below
the representatives of the volcanic series of Forfarshire.
In this county, however, there is a remarkable change
in the aspect of the latter subdivision. Instead of a
great succession of lavas and tutfs, we find a remarkable
develo})ment of coarse conglomerates, with ashy grits
and a few thin sheets of diabase porphyrite. It is ap-
parent, therefore, that the centres of volcanic activity
were far removed from this part of the inland sea in
which the strata accumulated. The active volcanoes
must have been situated along aline extending from
Perthshire into Forfarshire. The massive conglomer-
ates, containing large and well-rounded jjebbles of dia-
base, and various metamorphic rocks are admirably seen
on the bluff clilf at Dunnottar Castle, where tiiey are in-
clined to the S. In Trtmuda Bay they swing round to

393

KINCARDINESHIRE

the SW and pass below a bed of lava. As we follow the
coast-liue S by Crawton the beds veer round to the W,
and this dip continues to Inchbervie and Gourdon, while
in the neighbourhood of St Cyrus they are inclined to the
N of W. From these data it is evident that the repre-
sentatives of the volcanic series are curving round the
great synclinal fold of Strathmore. Of the sheets of
lava intercalated in this subdivision, the most impor-
tant occurs on the Bruxie and Leys Hills, which can be
traced in a SW direction to the E of Inchbervie. The
thin bands at Crawton, Kinneft", Inchbervie, and Gourdon
are of minor importance.

The members of the volcanic zone are succeeded by
red sandstones and conglomerates with bauds of shale,
in which occurs the well-known fish bed at Canterland
(see list of fossils in vol. II., Ord. Gaz., p. 40), and these
beds are overlaid in turn by the friable red marls and
sandstones occuppng the centre of the syncline between
Stracathro and Fordoim.

An interesting feature connected with the glaciation
of Kincardineshire is the abnormal trend of the ice-
markings on the shore, compared with the direction
met with on the slopes of the hills. In the higher
reaches of the North Esk, and along the hill slopes as
far as the Auchlee Hill, near Maryculter, the general
trend of the striae is SE and ESE, but along the shore
between Inchbervie and Aberdeen the direction is NNE.
It would seem, therefore, that by some means or other
the ice which radiated from the high grounds of Kin-
cardineshire was compelled to change its course on
reaching the low ground between Stracathro and Stone-
haven. Along this line it moved towards the NE, and
when it reached the coast-line it was deflected still
further towards the NNE and N. It has been suggested
that this remarkable deflection was due to the presence
of the Scandinavian vier de glace in the North Sea,
which, from its greater size, was capable of overcoming
the seaward motion of the local ice. The evidence
derived from the boulder clay furnishes striking confir-
mation of this northerly movement along the coast.
This deposit, which is spread over the low grounds in
the form of a more or less continuous covering, and
which steals up the valleys draining the hills as a gently
.sloping terrace, presents the usual characteristics of the
boulder clay. In the inland area occupied by the Old
Red Sandstone, this deposit contains numerous frag-
ments of the altered crystalline rocks derived from the
slopes of the high grounds of the county, while to the
N of the fault at Stonehaven, in the direction of
Bluchalls and Portlethen, striated blocks of red sand-
stone and porphyrite are mingled with fragments of the
underlying rocks in the boulder clay. The blocks of
lava and the red sandstones were derived from the area
lying to the S of the great fault.

At the E end of Strathmore, and along the line of
railway from that point towards Stonehaven, deposits of
gravel and sand are spread over the ground, which are
partly fluviatile and partly due to the melting of the
retreating glaciers. Here and there along the coast
between Stonehaven and St Cyrus patches of stratified
sands, gravels, and clays are met with which may pro-
bably belong to the 100-feet beach.

Soils ami Agriculture. — In the Grampian district
there is a large extent of ground simply covered
with heath, waste, or under peat, but along the
southern border matters improve, and there are
stretches of good loam on rock or clay subsoils, while
along both the Feugh and the Dye there are patches
of good rich loam. Along the coast districts the
soil varies considerably. About Muchalls it is thin
and moorish, and the northern district is generally
rough and stony. Some of the land, however, near
Aberdeen is let for dairy farming, and, though stony, is
fertile and commands a good rent. In tlio southern
district by Benholm, Bervie, and St Cyrus there is good
loam on a subsoil of gravel, clay, or decomposed rock ;
the higher parts are thin. In the Howe district there
are good black and reddish loams, with a subsoil of sand,
gravel, or clay, tlie gravel lying mostly to the NW, and
394

KINCARDINESHIRE

the clay to the SE. This tract is very fertile. In the
Deeside district, along the N side, there is a good deal of
light sandy soil produced by decomposed granite mixed
with moss, while along the S side the soil varies from a
good black loam to sand, gravel, and clay overlying rock.
Before the middle of last century, agriculture in the
county was but little attended to. ' At that period '
[1761], says Captain Barclay of Ury, in speaking of the
county, ' agriculture was at a very low ebb. My grand-
father, although a most respectable man, had no turn
for improvement, nor had any of his predecessors ; in-
deed, the pursuit of agriculture was generally despised
through tlie country. But my father seems to have
been a heaven-born improver ; for siTch was his enthu-
siasm, that a year before his father's death he carried
on his back, all the way from Aberdeen, a bundle of
young trees, which he planted in the den of Ury with
his own hand, sorely to the vexation of the old gentle-
man, who complained that the protecting of the plants
annoyed the people's sheep. Soon after this my father
went to Norfolk, then the great agricultural school of
the kingdom, where he served a regular apprenticeship
to the business, and brought home with him not only
the most improved implements of husbandry, but also
a number of Norfolk ploughmen. At that time the
tenantry were little better than the boors of Germany
and Russia, and the lairds were more inclined to break
each other's heads than to break up the treasures of the
earth. Seeing, then, that preaching doctrines was of
no avail without putting them into practical operation,
he took into his own hands a large surface of about
2000 acres. At that time the estate of Urj' was a com-
plete waste, consisting of bogs, baulks, and rigs, every-
where intersected with cairns of stones and moorland.
For twenty years he toiled most indefatigably ; and
during all that time he was never known to be in bed
after five o'clock in the morning, winter or summer.
He was the first man who sowed a turnip in a field, or
artificial grasses, north of the Firth of Forth. During
this period he thoroughly improved 2000 acres, re-
claimed from moor 800, and planted from 1200 to 1500
acres chiefly with forest trees. Gradually his operations
began to attract attention, and be followed by the pro-
prietors and tenantry around, until at last that spirit
of improvement burst forth, which has placed the
agriculture of this part of the country, and Scotland
generall}', in the high state of excellence in which we
now find it.' This was in 1838, and the improvement
that has since taken place is equally well marked.
' The area of cultivated land,' says Mr James Macdonald
in his prize report on the agriculture of Forfar and
Kincardine in the Transactions of the Highland and
Agricultural Society for 1881, ' about the commencement
of the century is stated at 74,377 acres, and that under
actual tillage at 45,736, it being estimated that other
28,000 acres were capable of being cultivated. In the
better parts of the county, in the Howe of the Mearns,
and in the parishes of St Cyrus and Benholm, wheat
had been grown as far back as tradition and record
stretched ; wliile by 1807, barley, oats, peas, beans,
potatoes, and turnips, and sown grasses, were cultivated
with success all over the country. The practice of
leaving land in fallow is said to have been introduced
into the county by IMr Barclay of Urie in 1761. It
spread gradually over the county, and in 1807 the
fallow break was estimated at 2619 acres. ... It
is stated that potatoes were first planted in Kincardine-
shire in 1727 by an old soldier, who had brought some
tubers with him from Ireland to the village of Marykirk,
where he resided for only one year. He raised a good
crop, and it is recorded that, while the villagers were
ready enough to steal the strange plant, "none of them
had the ingenuity to cultivate it after he was gone."
Tliey looked in vaiu to the stems for the seed. Potatoes
were again introduced into the Mearns in 1760, while
in 1754 tm'nips were introduced by Mr R. Scott of
Dunninald, and grown by him on the farm of Jlilton
of Mathers, St Cyrus. In 1764, Mr William Lyall,
farmer in Wattieston, Fordouu, raised about an acre

f- .«iKRffl-:RSf

I li

%

•57°

3Alil3I271 ^SBISl

stfronv Greenwich.

&^y'.f> ^'f.Y/ fnWffLi:.,

KINCARDINESHIRE

KINCARDINESHIRE

of turnips, and it is stated that the crop was considered
so rare that it was sold in small quantities, at one penny
per stone, for kitchen vegetables. This crop was culti-
vated on only a very few farms till 1775, but by the
beginning of the present century it was grown all over
the county. Sown grasses were not in general use till
about 1770 ; but it is stated that, as early as 1730, Sir
William Nicolson of Glenbervie, ' ' a spirited cultivator
at an early period," raised hay from sown seeds, "not,
however, from the seeds of any of the species of clover
now in use, but from such seeds as were found among
the natural meadow hay." The number of cattle in 1807
was 24,825, and it is stated that a four-year-old Mearns
ox. weighed about 45 stones. The best cattle are de-
scribed as black or brown, or brindled with spreading
horns. There were also some very good polled cattle
similar to, and, no doubt, of the same breed as the
Buchan "Humlies," the progenitors, along with the
Angus Doddies, of the improved polled Aberdeen and
Angus breed. The sheep stock numbered 24,957, and
consisted mainly of blackfaced sheep and the ancient
dun faces. Along the coast there were a few Bakewell
Leicesters, and also some Southdowns. At the com-
mencement of the century the farm implements were
somewhat primitive. The ancient Scotch plough was
fast giving way to Small's improved ploughs, which
cost about £i each, and which by 1807 was almost the
only sort of plough used in the county. Harrows, with
live wooden bills and five iron teeth in each, were coming
into use, as also were single carts. During the first ten
j'ears of the century about a score of threshing-mills
were erected in the county at a cost of from £140 to
£180 each. Among the noted early improvers, Mr
Barclay is mentioned as having been the most pro-
minent. Between 1760 and 1790 he reclaimed over
900, and planted 1000, acres, raising the rental of his
estate of Ury from £200 to £1800 in less than fifty
years. Early in the century great improvement was
efiected in houses, roads, and fences.

' Coming to speak of more recent times, the spirit of
improvement aroused in the last century has never
been allowed to lie dormant. True, during the last
twenty-five yeare a smaller extent of land has been
reclaimed than during either of the last twenty-five
years of the ISth century or the first twenty-five of the
present ; but that has not been due to any flagging in
the spirit of improvement, but simply to the fact that
only a limited area of suitable land remained for the
proprietors and tenants of the past twenty-five years to
briug under cultivation. Tlwre has been less done
simply because there has been less to do.'

The acreage under the various crops at ditferent dates
is given in the following tables : —

Grain Crops. — Acres.

Year.

Wheat.

Barley or
Bere.

Oats.

Total.

1854
1S70
1877
1S82

2327

1130

546

598

8,480
11,032
13,072
12,006

29,451
32,187
30,607
31,688

40,258
44,349
44,225
44,292

Grass, Root Crops, etc. — Acres.

Year.

Hay, Grass,
and Permanent Turniiis.
Pasture. |

Potatoes.

1854
1S70
1877
1882

49,990
41,288
52,551
53,223

16,0S7
19214
18,989
18,133

2645
3133
2729
3110

while there are about 1500 acres annually under beans,
rye, vetches, fallow, etc. Between 1854 and 1882 the
permanent pasture never broken up, and included above,
has decreased from 13,029 to 69S3. Harvest in the
earlier districts commences between 10 and 31 Aug., and

in the later districts between 1 and 16 Sept. The large
farms are worked mostly on the seven shift rotation,
most of the others on the six shift. The average yield
of wheat per acre is from 28 to 30 bushels ; barley, from 36
to 40 bushels; oats, from 36 to 46 bushels; hay, I5 ton;
turnips, from 14 to 30 tons ; and potatoes, 5 tons ; but
the last is very variable. Wages of farm servants vary
from £25 to £35 a year. Women for out-door work
get Is. 3d. a day, and in harvest 3s. 4d. a day. The
decrease in the area under wheat is due partly to a
decrease in the price of wheat, and partly to a slight
falling off in the yield per acre, which make its growing
still less remunerative. The latter is due to the chemical
falling off in the soil.

The agricultural live stock in the county at difi'erent
dates is shown iu the following table : —

Year.

Cattle. Horses. Sheep.

Pigs. j Total.

1854
1870
1S76
1882

25,409
27,158
28,504
24,162

3984
4305
4748
4737

35,195
32,101
32,176
24,434

3395 67,983
2617 66,181
2523 67,951
2740 56,073

Owing to the time when cattle are sold for the meat
market, the actual number of cattle reared is more than
is given in the table. Breeding of cattle is now mostly
confined to polled animals, the chief herd being that of
Mr James Scott at Easter "rulloch ; while there are good
herds also kept by Mr Walker at Portlethen, Sir Thomas
Gladstone of Fasque, and Mr Grant of Ecclesgreig.
Kincardineshire, iu the earlier years of the present cen-
tury, figured prominently in the breeding of shorthorns,
the herd being that of Captain Barclay of Ury, founded
in 1829, and from which a large number of the short-
horns iu the north of Scotland are descended. The
horses are principally Clydesdales, but there are no
celebrated breeders. A stud established by Sir Baird,
the present proprietor of Ury, was dispersed some years
ago. Sheep-farming is carried on in the upper districts,
and the heather of Glen Dye is supposed to be parti-
cularly tender and sweet. Tlie sheep are of the black-
faced breed, and the largest stock belongs to Sir Thomas
Gladstone of Fasque. In 1875 there were 1200 hold-
ings of 50 acres or less, 301 of from 50 to 100 acres,
362 of 100 to 300, and 51 of more than 300 acres.
Eeuts vary fi-om 15s. to £3 per acre, according to
the quality of the soil. There are 5 proprietors hold-
ing each between 10,000 and 50,000 acres, 5 between
5000 and 10,000, 18 between 2000 and 5000, 13 be-
tween 1000 and 2000, aud 1342 owning land of less
extent. The largest landowner in the county is
Sir Thomas Gladstone of Fasque. The chief estates,
most of which are separately noticed, are Altries,
Arbuthnot, Badentoy, Ballogie, Balmain, Balmakewan,
Banchory, Benholm, Blackball, Brotherton, The Burn,
Cowie, Coul, Drumlithie, Drumtochty, Dunnottar, Eccles-
greig, Fasque, Fawside, Fettercairu, Fetteresso, Gillie-
brands, Glenbervie, Hallgreen, Haulkerton, Inchmarlo,
Inglismaldie, Johnston, Kingcausie, Kirktonhill, Lauris-
ton. Leys, Luthermuir, Morphie, JIuchalls, Netherley,
Pitarrow, Pitcarrie, Portlethen, Eaemoir, Rickarton,
Strachan, Thornton, and Ury. The manufactures of
Kincardineshire are practically nil, as a weaving trade
once carried on in the smaller villages is now practically
extinct. Finely -jointed wooden snuff-boxes were for-
merly made at Laurencekirk, but this is also now gone.
There are small manufactories of woollen cloth at one
or two places, and two large distilleries. The herring,
haddock, cod, and ling fisheries round the coast are of
great importance, and afibrd employment to the inha-
bitants of the coast towns and villages. The chief of
these are Stonehaven, Gourdon, and Johnshaven. There
are also good salmon fishings along the coast and in
the Dee and Esk, while there are some excellent grouse
moors.

Koads, c^c— The county is traversed by three rail-
ways, viz., the Caledonian, which, entering on the SW
side at Marykirk, passes along the Howe of the Mearns

395

KINCARDINESHIRE

to Stoneliaven, and then along the coast to Aberdeen,
a distance of 34 miles. The Jlontrose and Beryie rail-
way enters the county near Kinnaber about 1 mile from
the mouth of the North Esk, and passes along the coast
to Bervie, a distance of 11 miles. The Deeside railway,
starting from Aberdeen, passes along the Aberdeenshire
bank of the Dee till about 1 mile to the E of Crathes
station, where it enters Kincardineshire, and passes
through it as far as Glassel station, where it returns to
Aberdeenshire, the distance being about 7^ miles. The
roads throughout the county are numerous and excel-
lent. There are four main lines with connecting links.
The first passes along the coast from Montrose, by
Bervie and Stonehaven, to Aberdeen. The second,
starting from Brechin, enters the county between Inglis-
maldie and Balmakewan, and, passing along the Howe
by Laurencekirk, joins the first road at Stonehaven.
The third, leaving the upper part of Forfarshire at
Ganochy near Edzell, passes by Fettercairn, Fordoun,
and Fetteresso, also to Stonehaven. The fourth main
line follows the right hand bank of the Dee from
Aberdeen as far as Wester Sluie, about 5 miles above
Banchory, where it passes into Aberdeenshire. This
road is connected with the first by a road starting from
Maryculter House and leading to Stonehaven, and by
another road which, starting between Durris and Ban-
chor)-, winds across by Cairnmonearn also to Stone-
haven. A third road, starting from Banchory, crosses
by Cairu-o'-Mount to Fettercairn.

The only royal burgh in the county is Bervie. The
old county town was Kincardine, but it is now gone,
and the county town is Stonehaven, which is a burgh of
barony, and the only town of over 3000 inhabitants.
Laurencekirk and Fettercairn are also burghs of barony ;
and Bervie, Laurencekirk, and Johnshaveu have over
1000 inhabitants. The principal villages are, along the
coast and in the coast district, Caterline, Cove, Craw-
ton, Downie, Findon, Gourdon, Lochside, Portlethen,
Roadside, Skateraw, St Cyrus, Tangleha, and Torry ; in
the Howe district — Auchinblae, Drumlithie, Fettercairn,
Fetteresso, Inch, Luthermuir, and ilarykirk ; and on
Deeside — Banchor)'. The principal seats, besides those
on the estates already noticed, are Auchlunies, Berryhill,
Bridgeton, Crathes Castle, Durris House, Elsick, Forcett
Hall, Glendye Lodge, Hatton House, Kirkside, Mary-
culter, Monboddo, Ravelstone, Redhall, and Tillwliilly.
The civil county consists of the eighteen entire quoad
civilia parishes of Arbuthnott, Benholm, Bervie, Drum-
oak, Dunnottar, Durris, Fettercairn, Fetteresso, For-
doun, Garvock, Glenbervie, Kinneff, Laurencekirk,
Maryculter, Marykirk, Nigg, St Cyrus, and Strachan,
and parts of the parishes of Banchory-Devenick, Ban-
chory-Ternan (both shared with Aberdeen), and Edzell
(shared with Forfar). The quoad sacra parishes of
Cookney, Portlethen, and Rickarton are also included.
The majority of these are ecclesiastically in the presby-
teries of Fordoun and Brechin in the synod of Angus
and Mearns, and the others in the presbyteries of Aber-
deen and Kincardine O'Neil in the synod of Aberdeen.
There are Established churches within all these parishes ;
and the county also contains 16 places of worship in con-
nection with the Free Church, 4 in connection with the
United Presbyterian Church, 1 Congregational Church,
8 in connection with the Scottish Episcopal Church,
and 1 in connection with the Roman Catholic Church.
On Deeside, near the NE corner of the county, is also
the Roman Catholic College of Blairs (St Mary). In
the year ending Sept. 1881 there were 61 schools (51
public), which, with accommodation for 7613 children,
had 6154 on the rolls, and an average attendance of 4634.
Their staff consisted of 82 certificated, 6 assistant,
and 47 pupil teachers. Kincardineshire, with a con-
stituency of 1879 in 1882-83, returns one member to
fiarliament. It is governed by a lord-lieutenant, a vice-
ieutenant, 26 deputy -lieutenants, and 88 justices of the
peace. It forms a division of the sheriifdom of Aber-
deen, Kincardine, and Banff, but there is now no
resident sheriff-substitute, the business being carried on
from Aberdeen. Ordinary courts arc held at Stone-
396

KINCARDINESHIRE

haven every "Wednesday throughout the session. Sheriff
small debt courts are also held at Stonehaven every
"Wednesday dui'ing the session, and circuit courts are
held at Banchory on the first Saturdays of January and
May, and at Laurencekirk on the second Saturdays of
January and May, and at each of these places on a
previously intimated day in September. Justice ot
peace courts are held at Stonehaven on the first Satur-
day of every month. There are police stations at Stone-
haven, Banchory-Ternan, Bervie, Durris, Fettercairn,
Fordoun, Hillside, Johnshaven, Laurencekirk, Marj'-
kirk, Nigg, and St Cyrus; and there is a force of 17
men (one to each 2027 of the population) under a chief
constable, with a salary of £200 a year. In 1881 the
number of persons tried at the instance of the police
was 138, convicted 133, committed for trial 19, not dealt
with 74. The number of registered poor at 14 May
1881 was 711 ; of dependants on these, 409 ; of casual
poor, 533 ; of dependants on these, 433. The receipts
were £7835, 15s. 9^d., and the expenditure £8304, Is.
lid. The parishes of Arbuthnott, Banchory-Devenick,
Banchory-Ternan, Benholm, Bervie, Dunnottar, Durris,
Fettercairn, Fetteresso, Fordoun, Glenbervie, Kinneff,
Laurencekirk, Maryculter, ]\Iarykirk, and Strachan
form Kincardineshire Poor Law Combination, with a
poorhouse near Stonehaven. The proportion of illegiti-
mate births averages about 13 per cent. The death rate
averages about 15 per thousand. There are coastguard
stations or detachments at Johnshaven, Gourdon, Cater-
line, and Muchalls ; batteries of artillery volunteers at
Johnshaven, St Cyrus, and Bervie ; and the head-
quarters of the 1st Deeside Highland Rifle 'N-'olunteers
are at Banchory. "Valuation (1674) £6244, (1804)
£63,748, (1856) £158,761, (1866) £194,336, (1876)
£223,724, (1883) £233,522, all inclusive of the burgh of
Bervie, but exclusive of railwavs, which in 1866 were
valued at £24,305, and in 1SS3 at £26,541 ; total in
1883, £260,063. Pop. of registration county, which
takes in part of Banchory-Devenick and of Banchory-
Ternan from Aberdeen, and gives off parts of Drumoak
and Edzell to Forfar, (1871) 35,097,(1881)35,465; of
civil county (1801) 26,349, (1811) 27,439, (1821) 29,118,
(1831) 31,431, (1841) 33,075, (1851) 34,598, (1861)
34,466, (1871) 34,630, (1881) 34,464, of whom 16,978
Avere males and 17,486 females. In 1881 the number of
persons to each square mile was 137, the number of
families 7557, the number of houses 6748, and the num-
ber of rooms 26,187.

The territory now forming Kincardineshire belonged
to the ancient Caledonian Yernicomes, was included in
the so-called Roman province of Yespasiana, and after-
wards formed part of Southern Pictavia. Mention is
made of various sheriffs from 1163 onwards, but none of
them held oflSce for more than a few years, except Philip
de Maleville of Mondynes, who held the post from 1222
to 1240. The sheriffship became in 1348 hereditary in
the Keith -IMarischal family, in which it remained till
the time of "William, Lord Keith (1621-35). There are
few distinctive features in the history of the district.
Malcolm I., King of Alban, fell, according to the Ulster
Annals, at Fetteresso in 954 ; and there is in that parish
a tumulus known as Malcolm's Mount. It was opened
in 1822 by some workmen digging materials for road
repair, and found to contain a stone coffin formed of
whinstone slabs 7 feet by 4. The bottom was covered
with pebbles and a number of small black balls, jiro-
bably acorns. The bones in it were those of a man of
middle size, and when the body had been interred it
had been wrapped in a robe of fine network. Some
beautiful auburn hair still remained. Kenneth II. was
killed near Fettercairn, and Duncan II. at Mondynes.
The historical incidents are noticed under the localities
KiNCAUDiNK, Fenf.lla, Dunnottae, Kinneff, etc.,
with which they are more immediately connected. The
name Mearns is supposed to be derived from Mernia, a
brother of Kenneth II., who was mormaer of the district.
' Men o' the Mearns' has l)een for long the particular
name of natives of the district, and is often associated
with the ideas of skill and strength ; hence the proverb—

KINCLAVEN

* I can dae fat I dow : the men o' the Mcarns can dae
nae mair.' There are two large cairns on the top of
Garvock Hill ; stone circles at Durris and Aquhorities ;
Eoman remains and a disputed camp at Raedykes ;
and ruins of old castles at Strathfenella, Kaini of
Mathers, Kixcardixe, Balbegno, Dunnottar,
Greexcastle, Kinneff, Morphie, AVhistleeerry,
and CowiE, and there are the ruins of a very old
church at Cowie. The Sheriff's Kettle is noticed under
Garvock.

See Anderson's Black Booh of Kincardineshire (Stone-
haven, 1843 ; 2d ed. 1879) ; Jervise's Memorials of
Angtis and Mearns (Edinb. 1861) ; his Land of the
Lindsays (Edinb. 1843 ; new ed. 1882) ; and James
Macdonald's ' Agriculture of the Counties of Forfar and
Kincardine ' in Trans. Highl. and A(j. Soc. for 1881.

Kinclaven (Gael, eeann-clamhain, ' the kite's head-
land '), a Tayside parish in the district of Stormont,
Perthshire, containing Airntull}' village, 2J miles S of
Murthly station and 2| iSTNW of the junction and post-
town of Stanley. It is bounded N and NE by Caputh,
SE by Cargill, S by Kedgorton, SW and W by Auchter-
gaven, and NW by Little Dunkeld. Its utmost length,
from E by N to W by S, is 4| miles ; its utmost breadth
is 4 miles ; and its area is 6345^ acres, of which 209^
are water. The Tay curves 8f miles east-north-eastward,
south -south-eastward, and south-south-westward along
all the Caputh and Cargill boundary, and here exhibits
an impetuosity and a destructiveness that do not in
general characterise its course. Though embankments
were early thrown up along its banks, it has at various
periods cut them do^vn, and invaded the fertile corn-
fields which they were meant to protect. Three or four
denudated tracts, and several islets in its pi'esent channel,
are tokens of its desolating power. Just below Tay-
mount House, it forms a picturesque fall, the Linn of
Campsie ; and everywhere its salmon fishing is magni-
ficent. Towards the centre of the parish lies King's
Myre {2^ x 1 furl.), the largest'of seven small lakes;
and out of it a streamlet, with force enough to drive
machinery, runs east-by-southward to the Tay. The
surface declines along the Tay to 100 feet above sea-
level, and rises gently thence to 313 feet near IMiddleton,
370 at North Airntully, 282 at Garth, and 269 at Court
Hill. The rocks are mainly Devonian ; and the soil is
variously alluvial, clayish, and sandy. Eight-thirteenths
of the entire area are in tillage ; nearly 1500 acres are
under wood ; and the rest is either pastoral or waste.
The ruined royal castle of Kinclaven, on an eminence
fronting the Isla's influx to the Tay, is said to have
been founded by Malcolm Ceannmor, and figiires in
Blind Harry's metrical chronicle as having been won
from the English by Wallace. Thomas Duncan, A.E. A.
(1807-45), was a native. Mansions are Taymount and
Ballathie ; and the landed property is divided among
seven. Giving off a portion since 1877 to Stanley
qrwad sacra parish, Kinclaven is in the presbytery of
Dunkeld and synod of Perth and Stirling ; the living is
worth £360. The parish church, near the Tay's right
bank, 5 miles NNE of Stanley, is an old building, con-
taining 320 sittings. A U.P. church, 22 miles N of
Stanley, represents one of the oldest congregations of
the Secession body. The public school, with accom-
modation for 47 children, had (1881) an average attend-
ance of 33, and a gi-ant of £37, 2s. Valuation (1866)
£6821, (1883)£7710. Pop. (1801) 1035, (1831) 890, (1861)
758, (1871) 607, (1881) 588, of whom 490 were in Kin-
claven ecclesiastical parish. — Ord. Sur., sh. 48, 1868.

Kincorth, an estate, with an old-fashioned manor
house, in Dyke and iloy parish, Elginshire, near the
Culbin Sands and the left bank of tlie Jluckle Burn, 4^
miles NW of Forres. Purchased by his grandfather
not long before 1801, it is the property of Robert
Wilfred Eaton Grant, Esq. (b. 1862 ; sue. 1878), who
holds 457 acres in the shire, valued at £832 per annum.
—Ord. Sur., sh. 94, 1878.

Kincraig, a hamlet in Alvie parish, SE Inverness-
shire, near the left bank of the Spey, Avith a station on
the Highland railway (55 miles NE of Kingussie), a

KINELLAR

post and telegraph office under Kingussie, and Alvie
Free church. — 0)'d. Sur., sh. 74, 1877.

Kincraig, an estate, with a mansion, in Piosskeen
parisli, Pioss-shire, li^ mile NNW of Invergordon. Its
owner, Roderick Mackenzie, Esq. (b. 1844), holds 1086
acres in the shire, valued at £1216 per annum. — Ord.
Sur., sh. 94, 1878.

Kincraigie, a village in Little Dunkeld parish, Perth-
shire, near the right bank of the river Tay, IJ mile N
by AV of Dalguise station.

Kincraig Point, a headland on the SW border of
Kilconquhar parish, Fife. Flanking the E side of the
entrance of Largo Bay, and rising to a hei^jht of 200
feet, it presents a bold front to the Firth of Forth, and
intercepts the roll of heavy seas in high easterly winds.
Its rocks comprise basalt, greenstone, clinkstone, amyg-
daloid, trap-tuff, gi-eywacke, claj'stone, and porphyry,
in such juxtapositions, with such characters, and partly
so reticulated by innumerable veins of calcareous spar,
as to present an interesting study to geologists ; and on
the seaward skirt it is pierced mth several caves, one of
which is alleged to have been the retreat of Macduff
when hiding from Macbeth. — Ord. Sur., sh. 41, 1857.

Kindallachan, a village in Dunkeld and Dowally
parish, Perthshire, near the left bank of the Tay, If
mile SSE of Ballinluig Junction.

Kindeace House, a mansion in Kilmuir-Easter parish,
Ross-shire, 4i miles NNE of Invergordon.

Kinder, Loch, a lake in Newabbey parish, SE Kirk-
cudbrightshire, at the NE base of Criffel (1867 feet),
1 mile S of Newabbey village. Lying 100 feet above
sea-level, it has an utmost length and breadth of 6 J and
2;^ furlongs ; receives Glex Burx, and sends off Drum
Burn Ig mile south-eastward to the] Solway Firth ;
abounds in fine trout, of nearly i lb. weight ; and con-
tains 2 islets, the smaller an artificial crannoge or pile-
built lake-dwelling, the larger the site of the ancient
parish church. The estate aroiind it was called from it
Lochkindei', and gave either that name or the similar
one of Lochindoloch to the parish now called Newabbey.
—Ord. Sur., shs. 5, 6, 1857-63.

Kindrogan, an estate, with a mansion, in Kirkmichael
parish, NE Perthshire, at the head of Strath Ardle, 10
miles ENE of Pitlochry. Its owner, Patrick Small
Keir, Esq. (b. 1810 ; sue. 1860), holds 10,000 acres in
the shire, valued at £2445 per annum. — Ord. Sur., sh.
56, 1870.

Kineamy, an ancient parish in Kincardine O'Neil
district, Abeixleenshire, since 1743 divided between the
present parishes of Cluny and Midmar.

Kineddar. See Kixg Edward.

Kinedder, an estate, with a mansion, in Saline parish,
Fife, 54 miles WNW of Dimfermline. Its owner,
William Charles Chitty Erskine, Esq. (b. 1843 ; sue.
1846), holds 969 acres in the shire, valued at £880 per
annum. — Ord. Sur., sh. 40, 1867.

Kinellan, Loch, a pretty lake (2f x J furl. ; 480 feet)
in Contin parish, SE Ross-shire, 1 mile SW of Strath-
peffer. It contains an artificial crannoge or lake-dwell-
ing said to have been a stronghold of the Seaforth family ;
and is flanked on one side with fine arable fields, on the
other with wild uplands. Near it is a remarkable echo,
repeating distinctly an entire sentence. — Ord. Sur., sh.
83, 1881.

Kinellar, a parish of SE Aberdeenshire, containing,
at its NE corner, Kinaldie station on the Great Nortli
of Scotland railway, 2f miles ESE of Kintore Junction,
and lOh NW of Aberdeen, under which, 1| mile to the
S, there is a post office of Blackburn. It is bounded N
by Fintray, E liy Dyce and Newhills, SE and SW by
Skene, and NW by Kintore. Its utmost length, from
N to S, is 4 a miles ; its breadth, from E to W, varies be-
tween 1 and 2§ miles ; and its area is 4227^ acres, of which
104 are water. The Dox winds 2 miles east-by-north-
ward along all the northern boundary ; and, in the NE,
where it quits the parisli, the surface declines to 135
feet above sea-level, thence rising south -south -westward
to 500 feet near Woodhill Cottage, and 610 at the Drum
Stone. Granite is tlie predominant rock ; and the soil

397

KINETHMONT

is alluvial along the Don, loamy or gravelly on the lower
knolls and hill slopes, but generally of fair fertility. A
heathy common, partly broken up in 1840, is on the
N W border ; a patch or two of rocky moor occurs in other
parts ; and, mth the exception of a small proportion of
planted ground, all the rest of the land is regularly or
occasionally in tillage. Antiquities are numerous tumuli
on the north-western common, remnants of an ancient
Caledonian stone circle in the churchyard, the ' Assem-
bly Cairn ' of Auchronie, and the ' Drum Stone ' on
Upper Auquhorsk farm, on which ' the much renounit
laird of Drum ' is said to have sat and made his testa-
ment on his way to the battle of Harlaw (1411). Man-
sions are Tertowie, Kinellar Lodge, Kinaldie, and Glas-
goego ; and 3 proprietors hold each an annual value of
£500 and upwards, 4 of between £100 and £500, and
5 of from £20 to £50. Kinellar is in the presbytery and
synod of Aberdeen ; the livang is worth £201. The
parish church, 1§ mile SSW of Kinaldie station, was
built in 1801, and contains 250 sittings. The public
school, with accommodation for 106 children, had (1881)
an average attendance of 61, and a grant of £47, 12s. 6d.
Valuation (1860) £4308, (1882) £5090, 16s. 6d., i-)lus
£267 for railway. Pop. (1801) 309, (1831) 449, (1861)
691, (1871) 601, (1881) b^O.—Ord. Sur., shs. 77, 76,
1873-74.

Kinethmont. See Kexnethmoxt.

Kinfauns (Gael, ceami-fan, ' head of the slope '), a
parish of SE Perthshire, containing Kinfauns and Glen-
carse stations on the Dundee and Perth section of the
Caledonian, 3f and 6 miles E by S of Perth. It is
bounded N by Scone, KinnouU (detached), and Kil-
spindie, E by Errol, SE by St Madoes and Kinnoull
(detached), S by the Tay, dividing it from Rhynd and
Perth parishes, and W by the main body of Kinnoull.
Its utmost length, from E to W, is 4| miles ; its breadth,
from N to S, varies between 1 and 2 miles ; and its area
is 44491 acres, of which 61 are foreshore and 97f water.
The navigable Tay, curving 3J miles east-by-southward
along the southern border, here broadens to 3 furlongs,
and has neap tides of 6, spring tides of 9 to 10 J, feet.
It receives three streamlets from the interior, and is
fringed by a belt of level ground, which, narrow in the
"W, widens eastward into the Carse of Gowrie. Beyond,
the surface rises northward to the Sidlaws, attaining
729 feet at *Kinnoull Hill, 555 at tower-crowned Kin-
fauns Hill, 702 near the Scone border, 342 at *Pans
Hill, 596 at Glencarse Hill, and 715 near Pitlowrie,
where the asterisks indicate summits that fall just
beyond the western and south-eastern confines of the
parish. Old Red sandstone predominates in the low
tracts, trap rock in the hills ; and the latter has been
largely quarried both for building and for road metal.
The soil of the flat grounds along the Tay is a strong
and very fertile cla}' ; on the lower hill-slopes is an
easy, deep, rich, black mould ; and in the level parts of
the eastern district, inland from the Carse, is black
mould, mi.xed in some places with clay, in others with
sand. Nearly one-half of the entire area is in tillage ;
about 215 acres are pasture ; and most of the rest of the
land is under wood. The lands of Kinfauns are said to
have been given early in the 14th century by Robert
the Bruce to the French 'Red Rover,' Thomas de
Longueville or Chartres, whose two-handed broadsword,
5| feet long, is professed still to be shown in the modern
castle. Several of his descendants were provosts of
Perth ; and one of them. Sir Patrick Charteris, figures
as such in Scott's Fair Maid of Perth. From them
Kinfauns passed to the Carnegies, and from them again
to the Blairs, whose heiress, ilargaret, married the
twelfth Baron Gray in 1741. Their great-granddaughter,
the eighteenth Baroness Gray, dying without issue in
1878, the entailed estates of Gray and Kinfauns went to
Edmimd Archibald Stuart, Esq. (b. 1840), who has
taken the name and arms of Gray, and who holds 2631
acres in Perthshire and 1639 in Forfarshire, valued at
£6124 and £2940 per annum. The present castle,
3 miles E by S of Perth and 1§ WNW of Kinfauns
station, is a stately Gothic pile, erected in 1822 from
398

KINGCAUSIE

designs by Sir Robert Smirke on the site of its ancient
predecessor. Measuring 233 by 160 feet, it has a
central tower 86 feet high, and is entered by a noble
eastern portico. The interior contains a valuable
library, and is richly adorned with stained glass, statues,
paintings by the old masters, and family portraits by
Raelnirn, Sir Francis Grant, etc. The grounds are finely
wooded, a Spanish chestnut in particular being 75 feet
in height and 17 in girth at 1 foot from the ground.
(See Fowlis-Wester, Gray House, and pp. 26-34 of
FuUarton's Perthshire Illustrated, 1844.) Other man-
sions, noticed separately, are Glencarse, Glendoick,
and Seggieden ; and, in all, 6 proprietors hold each
an annual value of more, 3 of less, than £500. Kin-
fauns is in the presbytery of Perth and synod of Perth
and Stirling ; the living is worth £334. The parish
church is a new structure of 1870, containing 300
sittings and an organ (1882). There is also a Free
church ; and Balthayock and Kinfauns public schools,
with respective accommodation for 75 and 60 children,
had (1881) an average attendance of 37 and 31, and
grants of £24, 6s. and £21, 14s. Valuation (1860)
£9077, lis. 4d., (1883) £9355, Is. 3d, Pop. (1801)
646, (1821) 802, (1861) 657, (1871) 578, (1881) 583.—
Ord. Sur., sh. 48, 1868.

Kingairloch, a hamlet in Lismore and Appin parish,
Argyllshire, at the head of Loch Corry (a western off-
shoot of Loch Linnhe), 16 miles SW of Ardgour, and
26 SW of Fort William. It has a post office, an inn,
a public school, and an Established mission church.
From J. A. Forbes, Esq., the estates of Kingairloch
and North Corry were purchased in 1881 for £30,140
by John Bell Sherriif, Esq. of Cakronvale (b. 1821),
who holds 11,205 acres in Argyllshire and 164 in Stir-
lingshire, valued at £1440 and £363 per annum. The
mansion, Kingairloch House, stands near the hamlet.

Kingarth, a parish of Bute island, Buteshire, whose
church stands 6f miles S of Rothesay, under which
there is a post office of Kingarth. Containing also the
villages of Kilchattan Bay, Ascog, and Kerrycroy, and
comprising the southern part of Bute island, it is
bounded NAV by Rothesay parish, and on all other sides
by the Firth of Clyde. Its utmost length, from N to S,
is 7§ miles ; its utmost breadth is 3^ miles ; and its land
area is 8995 acres. Its outline is indented by several
small bays, especially on the W side ; and, contracting
southward to 9J furlongs at the low sandy isthmus of
the Vale of St Blane, it thence projects a peninsula 2J
miles long, and terminating in the promontory of Gar-
roch Head. The coast is mostly bold and rocky ; the
interior is variously hilly, undulating, and low — its
highest elevations from S to N being Torr Mor or
Blane's Hill (485 feet), Suidhe-Chatain (517), and the
Mound (367). The scenery of the Vale of St Blane, and
in portions of the seaboard, is very beautiful. Principal
features are noticed in our articles on Bute, Ascog, Fad,
Kilchattan, Garroch Head, Dunagoil, Mount Stuart,
and Blane's (St). The soils of the arable lands is light
and sandy, but fertile. About four-elevenths of the
entire area are moor or pasture, some 950 acres are
under wood, and nearly all tlie rest of the parish is
in tillage. The ilarquis of Bute is almost sole pro-
prietor, but one other holds an annual value of between
£100 and £500. Kingarth is in the presbytery of
Dunoon and synod of Argyll ; the living is worth £281.
The parish church was built in 1826, and contains 600
sittings. There arc also two Free churches, designated
Kingarth and South Kingarth ; and three public schools
— Brigidale, Kerrycroy, and Kingarth — with respective
accommodation for 50, 88, and 107 children, had (1881)
an average attendance of 35, 33, and 67, and grants of
£42, £42, 14s. 6d., and £60, 5s. A^aluation (1860)
£6365, (1883) £10,517. Pop. (1801) 875, (1831) 746,
(1861) 905, (1871) 901, (1881) 1260.— Ord. Sur., shs.
21, 29, 1870-73.

Kingask, an estate, with a mansion, in St Andrews
parisii, Fife, 3 miles SE of the city.

Kingcausie, an estate, mth a mansion, in Maryculter
parish, Kincardineshire, near the right bank of the

KING EDWARD

Dee, IJ mile E by S of Cidter station. Its owner,
Archer Irvine-Fortescue, Esq. of Swanbister (b. 1819 ;
sue. 1875), holds 1889 acres in Kincardineshire and
2620 in Orkney, valued at £1583 and £387 per annum.
—Ord. Sur., sh. 77, 1873.

King Edward (pronounced Kin-cdart or Kin-eddar),
a parish of N W Aberdeenshire, containing King Edward
station on the Macduff branch of the Great North 'of
Scotland railway, 4f miles SSE of Banff Bridge station,
6| N by Wof Turriff, 24|N by Wof Inveramsay Junction,
and 45| NNW of Aberdeen, with a post and telegraph
office under Banff. Containing also Newbyth village,
8 miles to the ESE, it is bounded N by Gamrie in
Banffshire, E by Aberdour and New Deer, S by Mon-
quhitter and Turriff, W by Forglen and Alvah in Banff-
shire, and NW by Alvah. Its utmost length, from E
to W, is 9 miles ; its breadth, from N to S, varies be-
tween 2 and 4 f miles ; and its area is 18,646 acres, of
which 75f are water, and 1046| belong to the detached
or Montcoffer section. The Deveeon flows IJ mile
northward along the western boundary of the main body,
and here is joined by the Burn of King Edward, which,
formed by two head-streams near Fisherie, winds 6J
miles westward through the interior. The surface de-
clines along the Deveron to less than 40 feet above sea-
level, thence rising eastward to 328 feet at Wester Keil-
hill, 443 near Foulzie, 422 at Waller Hill, 701 at the
Hill of Overbrae, 563 at the Hill of Tillymauld, and 749
at the Hill of Fisherie. The principal rocks are grey-
wacke and clay slate in the W, Old Red sandstone in
the E ; and both the greywacke and the sandstone have
been quarried. The soil along the Deveron is chiefly
fertile alluvium ; of many parts in the central districts,
is either a loamy clay or a black loam on a gravelly or
rocky bottom ; and, in the eastern district, is generally
of a mossy nature, very various in quality, and incum-
bent either on gravel or on clay. Piather more than
one-half of the entire area is in tillage ; some 1600 acres
are under wood ; and the rest is mostly pasture, moor,
or moss. At 'Kenedor,' in the first half of the 10th
century, St Gcrvadius or Gernadius, a native of Ireland,
is said to have built a cell or oratory, and to have led
the life of an anchorite. William Guild, D.D. (1586-
1657), principal of King's College, Aberdeen, was
minister for 23 years. The Castle of King Edward, 9
furlongs S of the station, crowned a bold precipitous
rock on the N side of the deep ravine of the Burn of
King Edward, and, occupied in the 13th century by the
Comyns, Earls of Buchan, appears to have been a place
of great strength, but now is a shapeless ruin. Man-
sions, all noticed separately, are Byth, Craigston, Eden,
and Montcoffer ; and 5 proprietors hold each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 1 of between £100 and
£500, and 2 of from £20 to £50. Including almost the
whole of Newbyth quoad sacra parish. King Edward is
in the presbytery of Turriff' and synod of Aberdeen ; the
living is worth £399. The parish church, J mile WNW
of the station, is an Early English edifice of 1848,
containing 600 sittings. A Congregational chapel at
Millseat, 6 miles NE of Turriff, was built in 1831, and
contains 210 sittings ; and 2 public schools, Fisherie
and King Edward, with respective accommodation for
60 and 130 children, had (1881) an average attendance
of 41 and 123, and grants of £32, 7s. 6d. and £121,
4s. 6d. Valuation (1860) £95ti2, (1882) £13,789,
13s. lOd., plus £857 for railway. Pop. (1801) 1723,
(1831) 1966, (1861) 2843, (1871) 3111, (1881) 3068, of
whom 1164 were in the ecclesiastical parish. — Ord. Sur.,
shs. 96, 86, 87, 1876.

Kingennie, a station in Monifieth parish, Forfarshire,
on the Dundee and Forfar Direct section of the Cale-
donian railway, 7 miles NE of Dundee. Kingennie
estate, around the station, has a trap-rock quarry; and
Kingennie chapelry, comprising the estate, belonged to
Arbroath Abbey. Its church, having passed to a state
of ruin, was erased about 1830. — Ord. Sur., sh. 49, 1865.

Kingerloch. See Kingairloch.

Kinghom (Gael, ccann-gorm, 'blue headland'), a
coast town and parish of S Fife. A royal, parliamentary.

KINGHORN

and police burgh, the town has a station on the Edin-
burgh, Perth, and Dundee section of the North British,

3 miles S by W of Kirkcaldy, 2:^ ENE of Burntisland,
and 12 N by E of Edinburgh, whilst by water it is 6|
miles N of Leith. It occupies the face of a sloping
ground ; and, formerly one of the meanest and most
irregular towns in Fife, has undergone such improve-
ment that its streets, which for ages were almost im-
passable, are levelled now and well-paved, and that its
public buildings are fairly respectable. The town hall,
with accommodation for 150 persons, is a Gothic edifice,
built at a cost of £2500 from designs by Hamilton of
Edinburgh ; and places of worship are the parish church
(1774 ; 700 sittings), a Free church, and a U.P. church
(1779 ; 554 sittings). The public school, a handsome
building of 1829, was enlarged in 1874. Kinghorn,
besides, has a post office, with money order, .savings'
bank, and telegraph departments, a branch bank of the
British Linen Co., 3 insurance agencies, gasworks, and
an hotel. Its own small harbour has fallen to decay ;
but that of Pettycur, f mile to the SSW, has a good
quay though the ferry hence to Leith or Newhaven
has since 1848 been quite superseded by the Granton
and Burntisland railway feny. Two flax-spinning mills,
a bleachfield, a glue factory, and an iron shipbuilding
yard, employ a large number of hands ; but fishing-
engages only 20 men with 11 boats. Kinghorn or Glamis
Tower, on rising ground to the N of the town, was a
royal castle from the reign at least of AVilliam the Lyon
(1166-1214), but in the latter half of the 14th century
was granted by Robert II. to his son-in-law. Sir John
Lyon, whose eighth descendant was created Earl of
Kinghorne in 1606 — a title exchanged by his grandson
in 1677 for that of Earl of Strathmore and Kinghorne.
(See Glamis Castle, Forfarshire.) The plough passes
over its site ; and the ancient tower of St Leonard's
church, converted after the Reformation into a town-
house and jail, has likewise been wholly demolished, to
make room for the present town hall. The rout of 9000
Norsemen at Kinghorn by Macbeth, 'Thane of Fife,' is
a baseless tradition ; but with one great historic event
the place is for ever associated — the death of Alexander
III., on 12 March 1286, at the rugged basaltic promon-
tory of Kinghorn Ness, near Pettycur. He was gallop-
ing in the dusk along the coast from luverkeithing
to Kinghorn Tower, when, his horse stumbling, he
was pitched over the precipice and broke his neck.
(See DuxBAR. ) In Nov. 1881 two 18-ton guns were
mounted on a battery at Kinghorn Ness, subsidiary to
the fortifications of Inchkeith. The Witch Hill, to
the N of Pettycur, was the scene of the execution in
olden times of reputed witches, and now is pierced by a
railway tunnel 250 yards long.
A ro3-al burgh under a charter
of Alexander III., confirmed
by James VI. in 1611, King-
horn is governed by a provost,
2 bailies, a treasurer, a cham-
berlain, and 5 councillors ; and
with Kirkcaldy, Burnt-
island, and Dysart it returns
one member to jjarliamcnt.
The parliamentary and the
municipal constituency num-
bered 226 and 314 in 1883,
when the annual value of real
property amounted to £5230

(£3695 in 1867), whilst the corporation revenue was
£689 in 1882. Pop of parliamentary burgh (1841) 1555,
(1861) 1426, (1871) 1739, (1881) 1790 ; of royal bm-gh
(1881) 1439. Houses (1881) 42f inhabited, 44 vacant,

4 building.

The parish, containing also the hamlet of Pettycur,
the Invertiel suburb of Kirkcaldy, and the island of
Inchkeith, is bounded NW by Auchteitool, N by
Abbotshall, E and S by the Firth of Forth, and W by
Burntisland and Aberdour. Its utmost length, from E
to W, is ih miles ; its breadth, from N to S, varies
between # luile and 2^ miles ; and its area is 5596^

399

Seal of Kinghorn.

KINGLASS

acres, of which SSIJ are foreshore and 32| water. _ The
coast, 4 miles in extent, exhibits a pleasing diversity of
character, with many features both to attract the
geologist, and to gratify the lover of the picturesque.
A mile to the N of the town is a good-sized cave, whose
dark seaward mouth is flanked by two bold projecting
rocks. The interior rises abruptly in some places, in
others gradually, from the shore ; and, presenting beauti-
ful alternations of height and hollow, of cultivated field
and narrow vale, continues to ascend till at Glassmount
Hill, 24 miles inland, it attains a summit altitude of
601 feet. Tiel Burn traces the northern boundary to
the Firth; deep Kinghorn Loch (If x 1§ furl.) lies
embosomed among rising-grounds, 5 furlongs WNW of
the town ; and a medicinal well, on the shore towards
Pettycur, was brought into some repute by Dr Patrick
Anderson's Coldc S^n-ing of Kinghornc Craig, his admir-
able and nciv tryed Frojxj-ties (1618), but has now for
many years fallen into neglect. The rocks are mainly
basaltic, but in the AV belong to the Calciferous Sand-
stone series, and to the Carboniferous Limestone in the
NE, where limestone and sandstone have been worked.
The soil along the shore, and for some way inland, is a
deep, dark, fertile loam. A little more than one-twelfth
of the entire area is pretty equally divided between
■woodland and pasture ; and all the remainder is under
the plough. Seafield Tower, on the coast, IJ mile NNE
of the town, was the seat of the Lloutrie family ;
Pitteadie Castle, If mile NW, was long a stronghold of
the Earl of Eosslyn's ancestors, and was inhabited down
into last century ; and the estate of Grange, 1^ mile N,
gave designation to Sir "William Kirkcaldy, who was
executed at Edinburgh in 1573, and whose family held
it from the 15th century or earlier till 1739, since
which date it has come to be united to the Raith pro-
perty. George Sanders (1774-1846), portrait painter,
was a native. The principal mansions are Balmuto,
Glassmount, and Kilrie, all noticed separately ; and 7
proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and up-
wards. 12 of between £100 and £500, 4 of from £50 to
£100, and 21 of from £20 to £50. Giving off a portion
to Invertiel quoad sacra parish, Kinghorn is in the
presbytery of Kirkcaldy and synod of Fife ; the living
is worth £360. The public school, with accommodation
for 400 children, had (1881) an average attendance of
306, and a grant of £278, 19s. 6d. Valuation (1860)
£10,413, 4s. 5d., (1883) £11,392, Os. lid. Pop. (1801)
2308, (1831) 2579, (1861) 2981, (1871) 3323, (1881)
3650, of whom 2746 were in the ecclesiastical parish. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 40, 1867.

Kinglass. See Glenkixglass.

Kinglassie, a village and a parish in Kirkcaldy dis-
trict, Fife. The village, on Lochty Burn, 2h miles
NNE of Cardenden station, 3| SSW of Leslie^ and 6
NNW of Kirkcaldy, has long been inhabited mainly
by weavers or handicraftsmen, and acquired in 1873 an
extensive power-loom factory. It has a post office under
Kirkcaldy, the parish church, a Free church, a curling
club, and a fair on the Thursday of October before
Falkirk Tryst. The parish church is partly a building
of the 15th centurj'-, partly a reconstruction of 1773,
and contains nearly 350 sittings. Pop. (1861) 420,
(1871) 307, (1881) 3"51.

The parish is bounded N by Leslie, E by Markinch,
SE by Uysart, S and SW by Auchterderran, and W and
NW by Portmoak in Kinross-shire. Its utmost length,
from E to W, is 4g miles ; its breadth varies between
7 furlongs and 3§ miles ; and its area is 7716^ acres.
The river Leven flows 4§ miles on or close to all the
northern boundary, and the OiiE 2| miles across the
southern interior ; whilst Lochty Burn, after traversing
the central part for 2| miles, continues 25 along the
Dysart border. The land adjacent to these streams is
flat, and declines in the E along Lochty Burn to 165
feet above sea-level. Three ridges, of various heights
and various gradients, extend parallel to the course of
the streams, and culminate in Ficdwells Hill (605 feet),
whose summit, 5 furlongs N by W of the village, is
crowned by a conspicuous square tower, erected in 1812,
400

KINGOLDP.UM

and rising to the height of 52 feet. The rocks are
partly eruptive, partly carboniferous. Coal and lime-
stone were formerly worked, ironstone was discovered
about 1850, and sandstone is quarried. The soil is
partly a deep clay, partly a light loam, partly a mixture
of clay or loam with gravel or with sand and moss.
The principal antiquities are a sculptured standing
stone on Dogton farm and the site of a Danish fort on
GoATJiiLK Hill ; and about 1830 the Leven's alluvial
deposits yielded a Roman sword, a battle-axe, and
several iron spear-heads. Sir William Reid, K.C. B.
(1791-1859), Avas a native ; and the Rev. John Currie
(1674-1765), author of Vox Pojmli Vox Dei, was minister
for sixty years. The Kinglassie estate — 733 acres, of
£1100 annual value— was sold in 1883 for £22,140 to
JohnM'Nab, Esq. of Glenmavis. Inchdaiknie, noticed
separately, is the only mansion ; but 7 proprietors hold
each an annual value of £500 and upwards, 7 of between
£100 and £500, and 6 of from £20 to £50. Givingoff since
1878 a fragment to the quoad sacra parish of Thornton,
Kinglassie is in the presbyterj'' of Kirkcaldy and synod
of Fife ; the living is worth £2S0. A public school,
with accommodation for 192 children, had (1881) an
average attendance of 107, and a grant of £93, 6s.
Valuation (1860) £11,459, 15s., (1883) £11,828, 14s. 8d.
Pop. (1801) 908, (1831) 958, (1861) 1266, (1871) 1082,
(1881) 1292, of whom 1222 were in the ecclesiastical
parish. — Orel. Sur., sh. 40, 1867.

Kingledoors Burn. See Drummelzier.

Kingoldrum, a village and a parish of W Forfarshire.
The village, Kirkton of Kingoldrum, stands, 600 feet
above sea-level, on Crombie Burn, 4J miles W by N of
its station and post-town, Kirriemuir.

The parish is bounded N by the upland section of
Kirriemuir, E bj^ Cortachy and "the main body of KiiTie-
muir, S by Airlie, and W by Lintrathen. Its utmost
length, from N to S, is 5| miles ; its breadth varies
between 1| and 3J miles ; and its area is 9636i acres, of
which 174 are water. Prosen AVater winds 3^ miles
south-south-eastward along the north-eastern border,
and its affluents Corogle and Carity Burns traverse the
northern district to the Prosen ; Melgam "Water flows
i mile along the Lintrathen border on to a point within
ih mile of its confluence with the Isla ; and Crombie
Burn, its affluent, winds 6 miles east-south-eastward
and west-south-westward through the interior. Along
Melgam "Water the surface sinks to 480, along Prosen
"U^ater to 590, feet above sea-level ; and thence it rises
to 798 feet at Schurroch Hill, 1164 at the Carrach,
1233 near Wester Pearsie, 2196 at Cat Law, 1863 at
Long Goat, and 1018 at Turf Hill, the three last of
these summits falling on or close to the northern
boundary. The southern district is undulating or hilly,
comprising several parallel ridges extending south-west-
ward, with considerable tracts of level land between ;
and the northern is mostly occupied with spurs of the
Benchinnan Grampians, and has an upland pastoral
character. The rocks range from various kinds of trap,
through metamorphic and Silurian rocks, to Old Red
sandstone, and include greenstone, serpentine, clay
porphyry, clay slate, mica slate, gi'eywacke, and a
sandstone much usecl for building. The soil of the
arable lands is in places a lightish sand or a cold wet
clay, but is mostly a rich black mould. About three-
elevenths of the entire area are in tillage, one-eighth is
under wood, and all the rest of the land is cither pas-
toral or waste. The antiquities are a large cairn on the
summit of Cat Law, three ancient Caledonian stone
circles on Schurroch Hill, and Balfour Castle. Peaesie
is the only mansion ; but tlie property is divided among
seven. Kingoldrum is in the presbytery of Meigle and
synod of Angus and Mearns ; the living is worth £200.
The parish church, erected in 1840, contains 240 sit-
tings ; and the pulilic school, with accommodation for
95 children, had (1881) an average attendance of 39,
and a grant of £45, lis. 6d. A^aluation (1857) £4455,
(1883) £6828, 14s. 5d. Pop. (1801) 577, (1831) 444,
(1861) 473, (1871) 409, (1881) 389.— Ord Sur., sh. 56,
1870.

KINGOODIE

Kingoodie, a village iu Longforgan parish, SE Perth-
shire, ou the northern shore ot' the Firth of Tay, 5 miles
AV by S of Dundee. It originated in the working of a
neighbGiiring sandstone quarry ; and it has a small
harbour, formed for the exportation of the stone and
for the importation of coals, but accessible, even at
spring tides, only by vessels drawing less than 10 feet
•water. The stone of the quarry, with a bluish colour,
a fine grain, and a very compact texture, is a singularly
good building material, and is susceptible of the finest
polish. Used for building Castle Huntly in 1452, it
has ever since been more or less in request for edifices,
for docks, and for piers ; and may be had iu blocks of
any reasonable size, even 50 feet long, 16 broad, and
and 3 thick.— Ore/. Stir., sh. 48, 1868.

Kingsbams, a village and a coast parish in the East
Neuk of Fife. The village, standing 5 furlongs inland,
is 3 miles NNW of Grail, and 7 ESE of St Andrews ;
it has a post office under St Andrews, a station on the
Anstruther and St Andrews railwaj", and fairs on the
first Tuesday of June and the third Wednesday of
October, both o. s. A royal castle by the seashore was
rather an appurtenance of Falkland Palace than itself a
royal residence, and appears to have been a fortified
edifice of no great extent, containing the barns or
granaries of the royal household. Hence it took the
name of Kingsbarns, and gave that name to a tract of
land around it, which tract, together with some con-
tiguous lands, belonged to Grail parish till 1631, but
then was constituted a separate parish.

The parish is bounded N by St Andrews, NE by the
German Ocean, S by Grail, and ^Y by Grail and St
Leonards. Its utmost length, from XE to SW, is 3
miles ; its utmost breadth is 2| miles ; and its area is
4370 acres, of which 4S0| lie detached and surrounded
by Grail, and 296^ are foreshore. The coast, 3J miles
in extent, is low and rocky, with no very marked pro-
jection, and, suffering tremendous bufleting by the sea
in easterly gales, has for many years being undergoing
perceptible denudation. The interior rises gently south-
westward from the shore, till, on the western border, it
attains a maximum height of 300 feet above sea-level.
The rocks belong chiefly to the Garboniferous formation,
and consist mainly of sandstone and limestone. Goal
appears to have been once worked, but now is very
scarce ; limestone has been calcined at the shore of the
Gambo estate ; and some ironstone is found among the
rocks on the coast. The soil, in the lower district, is
partly light and sandy but fertile, partly a deep black
loam, tending in places to clay ; in the upper district is
partly strong and heavy, partly a thin clay and moorish,
lying generally on a wet bottom. "With the exception
of some 160 acres of wood, almost all the area is in
tUlage. The chief residences are Gambo and Pitmilly,
both noticed separately ; and Sir Thomas Erskine divides
the parish with 4 lesser proprietors holding each an
annual of £500 and upwards, 1 of between £100 and
£500, and 2 of from £50 to £100. Kingsbarns is in the
presbytery of St Andrews and synod of Fife ; the living
is worth £381. The church, at the village, was built
in 1631, and, as enlarged in 1811, contains 650 sittings.
The public school, with accommodation for 216 children,
had (1881) an average attendance of 123, and a grant of
£117, 8s. 6d. Valuation (1866) £8756, (1873) £10,590,
(1883) £8919, 6s. lid. Pop. (1801) 832, (1831) 1023,
(1861) 937, (1871) 922, (1881) 795.— Orel. Sur., shs. 41,
49, 1857-65.
King's Castle. See Kirkwall.
Kingscavil, a village, with a public school and a
sandstone quarry, in Linlithgow parish, Linlithgow-
shire, 2 miles E by S of Linlithgow town.
King's College. See Aberdeen, Old.
Kingsdale, an estate, with a modern mansion, in
Eennoway parish, Fife, 1 mile N by W of Windygates
station. Its owner, Thomas Bruce, Esq. of Arnot (b.
1808 ; sue. 1852), holds 21 acres in Fife and 853 in
Kinross-shire, valued at £25 and £1134 per annum.
—Orel Sur., sh. 40, 1867.
Kingseat, a collier village in Dunfermline parish, Fife,

KINGUSSIE

1^ mile X of Halbeath railway station, and 3 miles NE
of Dunfermline town. Pop. (1871) 305, (1881) 724.—
Ord. Sur., sh. 40, 1867.
King's Forest. See Kells.
King's Holm. See Kells.

King's House, an inn at the N border of Glenorchy
parish, Argyllshire, on the left bank of the Etive, and
on the road from Loch Lcmond to Fort AVilliam, 17
miles E by S of Ballachulish pier and 17i NNW
of Tyudrum station. A large square slated structure,
originally erected about the time of the '45 for the
accommodation of troops marching through the High-
land fastnesses, it stands (800 feet above sea-level) amid
a wild, high, moorland region, spreading eastward into
the Alpine \vilderness of Rannoch Muir, and rising
westward into the great twia-summits of Buachaille-
Etive and other mountains around the head of Glencoe.
Dorothy "Wordsworth, who, with her brother "William,
here spent a wretched night (3 Sept. 1803), has finely
described the desolation of the spot on pp. 175-180 of
her Journal (ed. by Princ. Shairp, 1874). — Orel. Sur.,
sh. 54, 1873.

King's House, an inn in Balquhidder parish, Perth-
shire, on the road from Callander to Lochearnhead, 1
mile S"W of Lochearnhead station. A lamb fair is held
in its vicinity on the "Wednesday after the second
Tuesday of August.

Kingskettle. See Kettle.

Kingsknowe, a station in Golinton parish, Edinburgh-
shire, on the Caledonian railway, adjacent to the Union
Canal and to Hailes quarry, 3 mUes S"W of Edinburgh.
Kingsmeadows, the seat of Sir Robert Hay, Bart. , in
Peebles parish, Peeblesshire, on the right bank of the
Tweed, | mile ESE of Peebles town. It is a plain
edifice, built for £600 in 1795, and enlarged in 1811,
but it has charming pleasure-grounds. See Haystol'n.
Kingsmills, a mansion in Inverness parish, on the
SE outskirts of the town.

Kingsmuir, an estate, with a good mansion, near the
NW border of Grail parish, E Fife, 4J miles NN"W
of Anstruther. Acquired by his ancestor about the
beginning of the 18th century, it is now the property
of°George Hannay, Esq. (b. 1824; sue. 1867), who
holds 1108 acres in the shire, valued at £1170 per
annum, besides 107 acres of £392 annual value,
through his marriage in 1875 to Miss Scott, the heiress
of Dalgairn, near Cupar. —Ore?. Sur., sh. 41, 1857.

Kingsmuir, a village, with a station and a public
school, near the SE boarder of Forfar parish, Forfarshire.
The station is on the Dundee and Forfar Direct section
of the Caledonian railway, 2| miles SE of Forfar.
King's Park. See Ixchlaw.
King's Seat, Fife. See Kixgseat.
Kingston, a village, with a public school, in Dirleton
parish, Haddingtonshire, 2^ miles S by AV of North
Berwick, under which it has a post office.

Kingston or Kingston-Port, a seaport village in
Urquhart parish, Elginshire, near the left or AV side of
the mouth of the river Spey, | mile N of Garmouth, and
5 miles N by AV of Fochabers. It owes at once its
oriicin and name to the establishment here (1784) of
tiniber and shipbuilding yards by Alessrs Dodsworth
and Osborne of Kingston-upon-Hull ; and shipbuilding
is still carried on, but with foreign timber, and not so
lar.frely as once. All but three or four houses have been
built since 1810. The Spey here, in January 1854,
was frozen completely over, so as to aflbrd a passage
without the aid of a wherry, a circumstance unparallelled
within the memory of the oldest inhabitant. Pop.
(1841) 396, (1861) 434, (1871) 403, (1881) 326.— Orel.
Sur., sh. 95, 1876. See Spey and Garmouth.

Kingussie (Gael, ccann-guithsaich, ' head of the fir-
wood '), a village and a parish in Badenoch district, SE
Inverness-shire. The village, beautifully situated near
the Spey's left bank, 740 feet above sea-level, has a
station on the Hii,diland railway, 71 1 miles NNAV of
Perth, 24i SAV of Grantown, and 72^ S by E of Inver-
ness, whilst by road it is 44^ miles from Inverness, and
50 ENE of Fort AVilliam. The capital of Badenoch,

401

KINGUSSIE

it was founded towards the close of last century by
the Duke of Gordon as an intended seat of woollen
manufactures. That scheme fell through ; but since
the opening of the railway (1863) Kingussie has bid fair
to rise to no little importance as a centre of general
trade, and as a summer resort of families from the sea-
side in quest of change of air. It has a post office, with
money order, savings' bank, and telegi-aph departments,
branches of the British Linen Co. and Commercial
Banks, a National Security Savings' Bank, 4 insurance
agencies, a good hotel, recent drainage and water works,
daily coach communication with Fort William, a
neat court-house (1806), the parish church (1792 ;
650 sittings), a Free church, a farming societ}^, a read-
ing club, and fairs on the third Wednesday of August
and the Tuesday of May, September, and November
after Beauly. Ruthven Barracks crowned a conical
mound, the site of a castle of the Comyns, Lords of
Badenoch, 1^ mile S by E of the village, on the opposite
side of the Spey, which here is crossed by a substantial
wooden bridge. The original Ruthven Castle in the
latter half of the 14th century was the principal strong-
hold of tlie ' Wolf of Badenoch ; ' its successor — reared
liy George, sixth Earl of Huutly, not long before its
fruitless siege by the Earl of Argyll in 1594 — was cap-
tured by Leslie (1647), by Mackenzie of Pluscardine
(1649), and by Claverhouse (1689). The barracks were
l)uilt by Government in 1718, and burned in 1746 by
2500 fugitives from CuUoden, who rallied here till a
message from Prince Charles Edward desired them to
disperse. The only other noticeable episode is that on
8 Oct. 1861, the Queen and Prince Consort drove through
Kingussie, 'a very straggling place with very few cot-
tages,' where 'there was a small, curious, chattering
crowd of people, who, however, did not really make us
out, but evidently suspected who we were. ' Small debt
courts sit on the Tuesday before the Wednesday after 16
Jan., and the Tuesdays before the first Wednesdays in
May and September. Under the superiority of the
Baillies of Dochfour, Kingussie is a police burgh accord-
ing to the General Police and Improvement Act (Scot-
land) of 1862, its municipal constituency numbering
110 in 1883, when the annual value of real property
amounted to £2328. Pop. (1841) 460, (1861) 646,
(1871) 676, (1881) 645. Houses (1881) 102 inhabited,
12 vacant, 2 building.

The parish, containing also the stations of Newton-
more and Dalwhinxie, 3 miles WSW and 13 SSW of
Kingussie, is bounded NW by Moy-Dalarossie, N by
Alvie, E by the Rothiemurchus portion of Alvie, SE and
S by Blair Athole in Perthshire, and AV by Laggan. Its
utmost length, from N to S, is 19| miles ; its utmost
width, from E to W, is 15J miles ; and its area is 181^
square miles, or 116,182 acres, including a detached por-
tion, which, with an utmost length and breadth of 3j
miles and 9 furlongs, extends along the western shore of
the upper waters of Loch Ericht, and at its southern
extremity contains Lochericht Lodge. From a point 5
furlongs N by W of Glentruim House, and 810 feet
above sea-level, the Spey winds 14 miles north-eastward,
tracing 6§ miles of the Alvie boundary, and, close to the
NE corner of the parish, flowing through Loch Inch
{7i X 4| furl. ; 721 feet). It here is from 80 to 100 feet
broad, and here is joined by the Truim, running 13
miles north-north-eastward along the Laggan boundary ;
the Calder, running 4J miles east-by-southward ; the
Tromie, running 10| miles north-by-eastward out
of Loch an t-Seilich (9 x 3^ furl. ; 1400 feet) ; and
the Feshie, running 8f miles north-by-vvestward along
the Rothiemurchus boundary. Chief elevations to the
N of the Spey are Creag Bheag (1593 feet), Creag Dubli
(2581), Carn an Fhreiceadain (2861), A Chailleach
(3045), and *Carn Mairg (3087), belonging to the
JIdnadhliath ISIountains ; to the S, Creag Far-Leitire
(1145), Beinn Bhuidhe (1193), Creag Bheag (1610),
Cruaidhleac (2099), *Carn Dearg Mor (2813), Mullach
Mor (2521), Stac Meall na Cuaich (3000), *Carn na
Cairn (3087), and *Creagan Mor (2522), belonging to
the GuAMPiANS, where asterisks mark those summits
402

KINKELL

that culminate on the boundaries. Such is a bare
outline of the general features of this great Highland
parish, fuller details being given under Badenoch,
Gaick Forest, Glentromie, Glentruim, Loch Gynag,
Invereshie, and other articles already indicated.
A good deal of the Speyside section, and of the little
lateral vales is arable ; but by far the greater part of
the surface is mountainous and heathy, either pastoral
or waste. The soil of the lower arable lands is alluvial;
that of the higher is mostly a light and sandy but fertile
loam. Several plantations, of greater or less extent, im-
part beauty and shelter to the natural landscape, and
mainly consist of larch and Scotch pine, interspersed
with mountain-ash and oak. The Kingussie estate be-
longed anciently to the Comyns, Lords of Badenoch,
and, having passed to the ducal family of Gordon, at the
death of the last Duke in 1836 was purchased by the late
James Evan Baillie, Esq. of Dochfour. Silver and lead
ores have been discovered near Kingussie village, but
never turned to any account. Antiquities are Caledonian
stone circles, and vestiges of what is thought to have
been a Roman camp ; whilst a priory is known to have
been founded by one of the Earls of Huntly in the latter
half of the 15th century at or near the site of Kingussie
village. James Macpherson (1738-96), the ' translator '
of Ossian, was born at Ruthven, where he was after-
wards for some time parish schoolmaster. Sir George
Macpherson-Grant of Ballindalloch is the largest pro-
prietor, 4 others holding each an annual value of £500
and upwards, 1 of between £100 and £500, 4 of from
£50 to £100, and 19 of from £20 to £50. Including
the greater part of Inch quoad sacra parish, Kingussie
is in the presbytery of Abernethy and synod of JMoray ;
the living is worth £385. Three public schools — Dal-
whinnie, Kingussie, and Newtonmore — with respective
accommodation for 35, 220, and 134 children, had (1881)
an average attendance of 7, 138, and 82, and grants of
£20, 16s., £122, 18s., and £71, 12s. Valuation (1861)
£9294, (1882) £14,943, 6s. 3d. Pop. (1801) 1306, (1831)
2080, (1861) 2033, (1871) 2101, (1881) 1987, of whom
1371 were Gaelic-speaking, and 1590 were in Kingussie
ecclesiastical parish. — Ord. Sur., shs. 64, 74, 73, 63,
1873-77.

Kinharvie, a beautiful villa in Newabbej'' parish,
Kirkcudbrightshire, at the NW base of Critfel, 10
miles SSW of Dumfries.

Kininmonth. See Kinninmonth.

Kinkell, a hamlet and an ancient parish in Stratheam
district, Perthshire. The hamlet lies on the right bank
of the Earn, 2h miles NNAV of Auchterarder, and has a
bridge over the Earn and a U.P. church. The ancient
parish is now incorporated with Trinity-Gask. Its
church was dedicated to St Bean or Beanus, who,
according to Dr Skene, dwelt here in the first half of
the 10th cenim-y {Celtic Scotland, ii. 324-327, 1877.—
Ord. Sur., sh. 47, 1869.

Einkell, a former parish in Gaiioch district, Aber-
deenshire. It took its name of Kinkell (Gael. ' head
church ') from the circumstance that six subordinate
churches anciently belonged to its parsonage. The Lords
Commissioners for the plantation of kirks in 1754 an-
nexed one-third of it to Kintore, and the remainder to
Keithhall or Monkegy, ordaining that the latter
should thenceforth be called the united parish of
Keithhall and Kinkell. A cattle and horse fair is held
at Kinkell on the Wednesday after the last Tuesday of
September o. s. The church, near the left bank of the
Don, 2 miles SSE of Inverurie, was unroofed in 1771 to
furnish materials for Keithhall church, and now is an
utter ruin. Third Pointed in style, it seems to have
been rebuilt in 1528 by Alexander Galloway, rector of
Kinkell, who was also architect of the first Bridge of
Dee at Aberdeen. It retains a sculptured tabernacle or
aumbry for the Blessed Sacrament, a bas-relief of a
crucifix and the celebration of Mass, and two-thirds of
an incised slab, representing a knight in armour — Sir
Gilbert de Greenlaw presumably, who fell at the battle
of Harlaw (1411). Its carved font, however, after
lying for many years exposed to wind and weather at

KINKELL

Rubislaw Den, in 1851 was restored and placed in St
John's Episcopal church, Aberdeen. — Ord. Sur., sh. 76,
1874. See vol. ii., pp. 776-779, of Alex. Smith's History
of Aherdecnshire (Ab. 1875).

Kinkell, an estate, with a mansion, in St Andrews
parish, Fife, 2| miles ESE of St Andrews city. Its
owner, Thomaa Duncan, Esq., holds 871 acres in the
shire, valued at £1785 per annum. It gives name to
old Kinkell Castle, Kinkell Cave (35 feet deep), and
small Kinkell Ness, near which a rock, called the Rock
and Spindle, and consisting of various kinds of trap in
cixrious aggregations and juxtapositions, has so remark-
able an outline as to form a striking object. — Ord. Sur.,
sh. 49, 1865.

Kinkell Castle, an ancient baronial tower in Urquhart
and Logie-Wester parish, SE Ross-shire, 1 mile ESE of
Conan station. It belonged to the Mackenzies of
Gairloch.

Kinloch, an estate, with a mansion and beautiful
grounds, in Collessie parish, Fife, 3 miles NW of
Ladj'bank. Its owner, John Boyd Kinnear, Esq.
(b. 1828 ; sue. 1874), holds 1399 acres in the shire,
valued at £2250 per annum. — Ord. Sur., sh. 40, 1867.

Einloch (Gael. ceann-Ioch, ' head of the loch '), a
hamlet and a parish of NE Perthshire. The hamlet
stands 2 miles W by S of Blairgowrie. The parish is
bounded N by Bendochy (detached), E by Blairgowrie
and Caputh (detached), S by Lethendy, SW and W by
the main body or detached sections of Caputh and
Clunie, and NW by Blairgowrie (detached). Its utmost
length, from NNW to SSE, is 6§ miles ; its utmost
breadth is 8^ miles ; and its area is 5493 acres, of which
176f are water. The Aiedle runs 9 furlongs eastward
along the northern boundary ; and Lomty Burn runs
2£ miles east-south-eastward across the middle of the
parish, in whose southern division are three lakes —
Drumellie (1 mile x 3^ furl. ), Ardblair or Rae Loch
(6 X 1^ furl.), and Fingask Loch (3x2 furL). Sinking
in the extreme S to 139 feet above sea-level, the si;rface
thence rises north-north-westward to 500 near Ballied
and 1252 on Cochrage Muir, whence again it descends
to 580 feet along the Airdle. Rather less than one-half
of the entire area is in tillage, nearly one-twelfth is
under wood, and all the rest of the land is either pastoral
or waste. The chief antiquities are noticed under Haer
Cairns and Glascltjne. Mansions are Marlee House
and Ballied ; and the property is divided among five.
For ecclesiastical purposes this parish has been united to
Lethexdy since 1806. Valuation (1883) £4236, 16s. 8d.
Pop. (1801) 367, (1831) 402, (1871) 251, (1881) 252.—
Ord. Sur., sh. 56, 1870.

Kinloch, a modem mansion in Kilfinichen parish,
Mu'l island, Argyllshire, at the head of Loch Scridain, 1
mile NE of Pennj-ghael.

Kinloch, a hamlet near the NE border of Coupar-
Angus parish, Perthshire, IJ mile W by S of Jleigle.
Kinloch House here is a seat of Sir J. G. S. Kinloch,
Bart. See Glenisla.

Kinlochaline Castle. See Alixe, Loch.

Kinlochard, a hamlet in Aberfoyle parish, Perthshire,
at the head of Loch Ard, near the boundary with Stir-
lingshire, 12 miles NW of Bucklyvie station. It has a
post office under Stirling.

Kinlochaylort, an inn in Arasaig district, Inverness-
shire, at the head of salt-water Loch Aylort, 28 miles
W by N of Fort William and 10 ESE of Arasaig village.

Kinlochbervie, a hamlet and a quoad sacra parish in
Eddrachillis parish, NAV Sutherland. The hamlet lies
on the lower part of the N side of Loch Inch ard, 3|
miles NW of Rhiconich and 45 NW of Lairg, under
which it has a post office. Constituted by ecclesiastical
authority in 1834, and reconstituted by civil authority
in 1846, the parish is in the presbytery of Tongue and
synod of Sutherland and Caithness ; the living is worth
£175. The parish church was built in 1829, and con-
tains 350 sittings. There is also a Free church. Pop.
(1871) 882, (1881) 920, of whom 859 were Gaelic-
speaking.— Ore?. Si'.r., sh. 113, 1882.

Kinlochewe, a hamlet in Gairloch parish, W Ross-

KINLOSS

shire, Ig mile SSE of the head of Loch Maree, and 10
miles WNW of Auchnasheen station. It has a post
and telegraph office, a comfortable hotel, and a cattle
fair on the first Tuesday of June.

Kinlochkerran. See Campbeltowx, Argyllshire.

Kinlochluichart, a quoad sacra parish of central Ross-
shire, whose church (1825) stands 1 mile W of the head
of Loch Luichart, adjacent to Lochluichart station on
the Dingwall and Skye railway, this being 17 miles
AV by N of the post-town, Dingwall. Kinlochluichart
Lodge, U mile ENE, belongs to Lady Ashburton, who
holds 28,556 acres in the shire, valued at £1885 per
annum. The parish is in the presbytery of Dingwall
and s\-nod of Ross ; the stipend is £120, with a manse
and a glebe worth each £5 a year. Pop. (1871) 704,
(1881) 632, of whom 602 were in Contin, 27 in Fodderty,
and 3 in Vriay.— Orel. Sur., sh. 93, 1881.

Kinlochmoidart, a hamlet in Ardnamurchan parish,
Moidart district, SW Inverness-shire, at the head of
salt-water Loch Moidart, 10 miles NNE of Salen, and
20 NW of Strontian. It has a post office and a pretty
Episcopal church, St Finan's (1860 ; 60 sittings). Kin-
lochmoidart House, in the vicinity of the hamlet, is the
seat of William Robertson-Macdonald, Esq. (b. 1802 ;
sue. 1844), who holds 9349 acres in the shire, valued at
£1008 per annum.

Kinloch-Rannoch, a village in Fortingall {quoad
civilia) parish, NW Perthshire, on both banks of the
Dubhag or Tummel, which here, 300 yards below its
efflux from Loch Eannoch, is spanned by a bridge of
four arches. It is 21 miles W by N of Pitlochry, 13
WSW of Struan station, 27 E by N of Kingshouse Inn,
and IS NW of Aberfeldy. A picturesque and thriving
little place, it has a neat new post office (Rannoch),
with money order, savings' bank, and telegi'aph de-
partments, 2 commodious hotels, a quoad sacra parish
church (1829 ; 560 sittings), a Free church (1855 ; 200
sittings), an Episcopal church. All Saints (1864 ; 120
sittings), 6 shops, and a fair on the last Tuesday of
October. In the centre of the village a Peterhead
granite obelisk, 21 feet high, was erected in 1875 to
the memory of the Gaelic sacred poet and evangelist,
Dugald Buchanan (1716-68), Avho for the last sixteen
years of his life was schoolmaster at Kinloch-Piannoch,
where his house was demolished so late as 1881. Con-
stituted by ecclesiastical authority in 1829, by civil
authority in 1845, the quoad sacra, parish of Kinloch-
Rannoch is in the pi'esbytery of Weem and sj-nod of
Perth and Stirling ; its minister's stipend is £120, with
a manse and glebe together worth £22, 10s. per annum.
Auchtarsin public, Kinloch-Rannoch public, and KUli-
chonan private state-aided schools, with respective ac-
commodation for 29, 70, and 31 children, had (1881) an
average attendance of 19, 40, and 24, and grants of
£32, Is. 6d., £42, 15s., and £25, Os. 5d. Pop. of
q. s. parish (1871) 921, (1881) 894, of whom 791 were
in Fortingall and 103 in Logierait (detached). — Ord.
Sur., sh. 55, 1869.

Kinlochspelvie, a quoad, sacra parish in Torosay
parish, ilull island, Argjdlshire, in the SE of MuU
around Loch Spelvie, and containing Achxacraig
hamlet, with a post and telegraph office under Oban.
Constituted by the Court of Teinds in 1845, it is in the
presbytery of Midi and synod of Argyll. The stipend
is £120, with a manse and glebe worth £10 and £8 a
year. The church, 9 miles SW of Achnacraig, was
built in 1828. Pop. (1871) 388, (1881) 311, of whom
276 were Gaelic-speaking.

Kinloss (probably a modified form of the Gaelic
ccann-loch, 'the head of the loch'), a small parish
with a hamlet of the same name on the seaboard in the
NW of the county of Elgin. The hamlet is about J
mile from the SE corner of the estuary of the Fixdhorn
or Fiudhorn Bay and f NW of Kinloss station on the
Highland railway. The parish is bounded N by the
Moray Firth, E by Alves, S by Rafford, and W by
Forres and by Dyke and Jloy. Its greatest length,
from AVNW to ESE, is 4| miles ; and the greatest
breadth, from NE to SW, is 4^ miles. The area, inclu-

403

KINLOSS

sive of foreshore and water, is 62S6'455 acres, but the
land area is only 5184 acres, of which 3000 acres are
in tillage, ISOO are in divided common, 250 are under
wood, and the rest are waste. The surface is everj--
where very low. Along the coast is a range of sandhills,
and behind this, extending on an average for | mile
inland, is a half grassy, half moory belt. The little
drainage tliere is passes directly to Findhorn Bay or
by the small Kinloss Burn, which passes from E to AV
almost through the centre of the parish, with a course
of i^ miles. The land is mostly alluvial, and has
been, as the name indicates, elevated at a period
which, though geologically recent, must have been pre-
historic. Over the whole of the arable part the soil
is a rich fertile loam, ^vith patches of clay, poor loam,
sand, and moss. The underlying rock is sandstone.
The principal residences are Grangehall and Seapark,
both of which are noticed separately. The only object
of antiquarian interest is Kinloss Abbey. It was
founded by David I. in 1150, or, according to the
CJironica de Mailros, in 1151, and the papal sanction
for the new abbey was in 1174 granted by Pope Alex-
ander III. to Eeinerius, the second abbot. The monks
belonged to the Cistercian order, and were brought
from Melrose. According to Ferrerius, the foundation
was due, like that of Holyrood, to a miraculous answer
to Xing David's prayers. While he was hunting in his
forests near Forres he lost his way, and, in answer to
his prayer for aid, a white dove miraculously appeared,
and, flying before him, guided him to an open space
where two shepherds were watching their flocks. He
was immediately afterwards warned in a dream tliat he
ought to erect a chapel to the Blessed Virgin, and with
his sword he at once marked out on the grass the out-
line of the building that was to be erected, and that
there might be no delay he spent the summer at the
castle of DuFFUs, in order himself to superintend and
press on the erection of the building. The original
grant conveyed to the abbey the lands of ' Kynloss
and Inverlochty,' and King Llalcolm afterwards added
other lauds in the ueiglibourhood. Subsequently,
several of the Kings, asNvell as private benefactors,
enriched it extensively. "William the Lyon conferred
on the monks the barony of Strathisla in Banffshire,
the lands of Burgie, the lands of Invererne, and tofts
in the burghs of Inverness, Nairn, Forres, Elgin, and
Aberdeen. Robert Bruce granted all the fishings on
the river Findhorn, and this grant was confirmed by
James I. and James IV. Several of the abbots who
were mitred and had a seat in parliament were distin-
guished men, the most so being Robert Reid, who ruled
from 1526 till his appointment as Bishop of Orkney in
1541. The abbots had a regality jurisdiction over their
po.ssessious. In 1587 the lands belonging to it were
annexed to the Crown, and on 2 Feb. 1601 a charter
was granted to Edward Bruce (who on the dissolution
of the religious houses had been appointed commen-
dator of Kinloss) erecting the lands into a temporal
lordship and barony, and in 1604 Bruce became Lord
Bruce of Kinloss, a title which still remains among
those of the Earl of Elgin, though the estates have long
quitted the family, the first Earl having in 164-3 sold
them to Alexander Brodie of Lethen. Of the buildings
which, from the importance of the place, must have
been very extensive, and included all the apartments
suitable to a large monastery, but few fragments now
remain. These are a cloister wall on the W, two fine
Saxon arches on the S, and a two-story building with
groined roof, traditionally called the 'prior's chambers,'
on the E. To the S are the E gable and a portion of
the wall of a dwelling-house traditionally the residence
of the abbot. The chapter-house is said to have sur-
vived till the latter part of the 18th century. It seems
to have been supported by six pillars, and these are
mentioned by Pennant, who visited the building in
1769. His account in his Tour in Scotland (Chester,
1771) also mentions the orchard. 'Near the abbey is
an orchard of apple and pear trees, at least coeval with
the last monks ; numbers lie prostrate ; their venerable
404

KINMOUNT

branches seem to have taken fresh roots, and were laden
with fruit, beyond what could be expected from their
antique look.' These have now disappeared. The
church, whose outline alone can be traced, was dedi-
cated to the Blessed Virgin, and had a nave, transepts,
and choir, with a lofty tower at the crossing. The tower
seems to have been erected between 1467 and 1482, and
fell in 1574. The Laird of Lethen in 1650 sold the
stones of much of the buildings to the Commonwealth
for the erection of the citadel at Inverness, and one of
his descendants carried off and used part of what remained
for the erection of farm offices. In 1650 the parish
had no separate existence, and in 1652 the minister of
Alves represented to the presbytery that ' the chapter-
house of the Abbey of Kinloss hath been since the
Reformation a place for preaching the Word, cele-
brating the sacraments and marriage ; and by a con-
descendence between Alexander Brodie of Lethen and
the English garrison at Inverness, the fabric of the
abbey is taken down for building their citadel, save the
place of worship ; and those who have the charge for to
transport the stone have it in command to take that
down also : therefore,' the presbytery were to lay to
heart what might happen seeing that all parties con-
cerned had agreed that there was to be a separate
church and parish erected for Kinloss. Mr Brodie
declared that ' it was against his will that these stones
were taken away,' and finally agreed to give a glebe
and a site for a manse and a church, and, besides, to
pay for the erection of these buildings out of the money
he had received for the stones of the abbey. The
parish of Kinloss was soon thereafter constituted in
1657 by disjunctions from the parishes of Forres,
Eaff'ord, and Alves, and this was ratified by parliament
in 1661. Edward I., during his progress through the
North in 1303, quartered himself and his soldiers on
the Monks on 13 Sept., and spent part of tliat month
as well as of October, and possibly also of November
there, as is shown by a number of deeds signed by him
at Kinloss.

The parish is in the presbytery of Forres and the synod
of Moray ; the living is worth £293. The parish church,
at the hamlet near the abbey, was erected in 1765, and
repaired in 1830. The Free church of Kinloss is at
FiNDHOEN, which village is within the parish. Two
public schools, Kinloss and Findhorn female, with
accommodation respectively for 114 and 108 pupils, had
in 1881 attendances of 61 and 73, and grants of £52,
10s. 6d. and £62, 13s. There are also a sub-post oSice,
a public librar}% and a friendly society. The parish is
traversed by the Forres and Keith section of the High-
land railway, which passes through it on the S for 3f
miles, and has a station near the middle of its course.
A branch line from Kinloss station to Findhorn is not
at present worked. R. C. M. Ferguson, Esq. of Raith,
holds rather more than one-half of the entire rental ;
2 lesser proprietors hold each an annual value of £500
and upwards, 4 hold each between £500 and £100, 4
liold each between £100 and £50, and there are others
of smaller amount. Valuation (1860) £6128, (1883)
£7427, 10s. Pop. (1801) 917, (1831) 1121, (1861) 1315,
(1871) 1112, (1881) 1072, of whom 476 were males and
596 females.— Orrf. Sur., shs. 95, 94, 1876-78.

See also Shaw's History of the Province of Moray
(Edinb. 1775; 2d ed., Elgin, 1827; 3d ed., Glasgow,
1882) ; Ferrerius' Histonj of the Abbey of Kinloss
(Bannatyne Club, Edinb. 1839) ; Taylor's Edward I.
in the North of Scotland (Elgin, 1858) ; and Dr John
Stuart's Records of the Monastery of Kinloss (Edinb.
1872, pviblished for the Society of Antiquaries of Scot-
land).

Kinmount, the scat of the Marquess of Queensberry,
in Cunimertrees parish, Dumfriesshire, 1^ mile N by W
of Cummertrecs station, and 4 miles WNW of Annan.
It is a beautiful edifice, built in the early part of the
present century at a cost of £40,000, and surrounded
by fine pleasure-grounds. In 1668 the Hon. William
Douglas of Kclhead, second son of the first Earl of
Queensberry, was created a baronet ; and his fifth

KINMUCK

descendant, Charles, sixth Bart. (1777-1837), in 1810
succeeded his fourth cousin once removed, the fourth
Duke of Queensberr)', in the Scottish titles of Viscount
Drumlanrig (ere. 1628), Earl of Queensberry (1633),
Marquess of Queensberry (1682), etc. John Sholto
Douglas, present and eighth Marquess (b. 1844 ; sue.
1858), holds 13,243 acres in the shii-e, valued at £13,385
per annum.— C/Y?. Sur., sh. 6, 1863. See Dkum-

LANEIG.

BZinmuck, a hamlet in Keithhall and Kinkell parish,
Aberdeenshire, 3J miles ESE of Inverurie, under -which
it has a post office. A neighbouring moor is said to
have been the scene of a great battle between the Danes
and the Scotch ; contains remains of an encampment,
supposed to have been formed in connection with that
battle ; and took the name of Kinmuck (Gael. ' boar's
head ') from a tradition that the Scotch slew a boar iu
their advance. — Ord. Sur., sh. 77, 1873.

Kinmundy, a plain mansion near the E border of Old
Deer parish, Aberdeenshire, 3 miles SSE of Mintlaw.
Its owner, William Ferguson, Esq. (b. 1823 ; sue. 1862),
holds 4068 acres in the shire, valued at £3555 per
annum. — Ord. Sur., sh. 87, 1876.

Kinmundy, an estate, with a mansion, in Skene
parish, Aberdeenshire, 6i miles W by N of Aberdeen.
Its owner. Col. Henry Erskine Forbes (b. 1821), holds
723 acres in the shire, valued at £981 per annum. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 77, 1873.

Kinnaird (Gael, ceann-ard, 'high head'), a village
and a parish in Gowrie district, SE Perthshire. The
village, standing 2^ miles "W of its post office, Inchture,
and 3J NW of Inchture station, occupies such a situation
among the braes overlooking the Carse of Gowrie as may
have given rise to its name.

The parish, containing also the village of Pitmiddle,
is bounded N byAbernyte, E by Abernyte and Inchture,
S by Errol, SW and W by Kilspindie, and NW by
Caputh (detached) and Collace. Its utmost length,
from E to W, is 3;^ miles ; its utmost breadth, from N
to S, is 2| miles ; and its area is 3501 acres, of which
2| are water. The south-eastern border is part of the
Carse of Gowrie, sinking to less than 50 feet above sea-
level ; and the central and northern districts, consisting
chiefly of what are called the Carse Braes, rise gradually
north-westward to the watershed of the Sidlaw Hills,
and attain 547 feet near Woodwell, 917 near Woodburn-
head, 994 near Franklyden, and 969 near Blacklaw.
Sandstone is the predominant rock. The soil, on the
SE border, is of the rich character common to the Carse ;
in the central districts, is a mixture of black earth and
so-called 'mortar,' inferior to the Carse soil, yet of no
little fertility ; in the northern district is light and
shallow, with such mixed covering of grass, bent, and
heath, as renders it fit only for sheep pasturage. Wood
covers a fair proportion ; and the arable area is a little
larger than the pastoral. Kinnaird Castle, a little XW
of the village, commands e:?>tensive views of the Carse
and the Fife hills. Built by the Crown in the 12th
century to serve as a local fortalice, it was tenanted
for some days in 1617 by James VI., and in 1674
was acquired by the Threiplands of Fikgask. A
strong square tower of smoothed freestone, dating pro-
bably from the 15th century, it was externally renovated
in 1855, and is figured in Dr R. Chambers' ThrdjJlands
of Finrjri.sk (Edinb. 1880). The parish is divided
between two proprietors. It is in the presbytery of
Dundee and synod of Angus and Meams ; the living is
worth £265. The church, erected in 1815, contains
300 sittings ; and a public school, with accommodation
for 122 children, had (1881) an average attendance of
70, and a grant of £70, Is. A'aluation (1883) £3174,
18s. lid. Pop. (1801) 455, (1831) 461, (1861) 318,
(1871) 299, (1881) 260.— OrcZ. Sur., sh. 48, 1868.

Kinnaird, a mansion in Little Dunkeld parish, Perth-
shire, near the right bank of the river Tay, 2 miles S
of Ballinluig and 7 NNW of Dunkeld. Beautifully
situated on a rising-ground, in the midst of woods, and
almost overhung by a stupendous rock, it belongs to
the Duke of Athole. During 1823-24 it was tenanted

KINNEFF

by the Bullers, whose tutor, Thomas Carlyle (1795-
1881), here wrote most of his Life of Schiller and the
first part of his translation of Wilhclm Meistcr. See
chaps, xi., xii., of his Life by Froude (Loud. 1882). —
Ord. Sur., sh. 55, 1869.

Kinnaird, a hamlet in Moulin parish, Pertlishire, 1^
mile NE of Pitlochry.

Kinnaird Castle, the seat of the Earl of Southesk, in
Farxell parish, Forfarshire, within 5 furlongs of the
right or S bank of the South Esk river, 3^ miles SE of
Brechin, and 1| mile NiSTE of Farnell Road station.
Mostly rebuilt about the beginning of the present
century, it was enlarged and remodelled in 1854-60
after designs by the late David Bryce, R.S.A. ; and
'now resembles an ancient French chateau, with
many lofty steep-roofed towers and turrets, long stone
balconies, and balustraded terrace walls.' The park,
three-fourths of which are occupied by the deer-park,
with 400 fallow deer, comprises between 1300 and 1400
acres, and, save where it is bounded by the river, is
enclosed by a high wall. Most of its trees were planted
towards the close of last century, but there are several
170 to 400 j-ears old, whose dimensions are given by Mr
Jervise and in the series of five papers on the ' old and
remarkable ' trees of Scotland in Trans. Hirjlil. aiul Ag.
Sac. (1879-81). In 1401-9 Duthac de Carnegie, by pur-
chase and marriage, acquired the lands of Kinnaird.
He fell at Harlaw (1411) ; whilst Walter, his son, for
fighting against Earl ' Beardie ' in the battle of Brechin
(1452), had his castle of Kinnaird burned down by the
Lindsays ; and John, his great-grandson, was slain at
Flodden (1513). His son, Sir Robert, senator of the
College of Justice (1547) and ambassador to France
(1550), rebuilt the house of Kinnaird, which was visited
by James VI., Charles I., Charles II., and the Chevalier.
Iu 1616 Sir David was created Lord Carnegie of Kin-
naird, and in 1633 Earl of Southesk — titles forfeited b}'
the fifth Earl, James, for his share in the '15. The
entire estate was bought for £51,549 by the York
Buildings Co., on whose insolvencj' a large portion of
the property was repurchased for £36,871 by the last
Earl's third cousin, Sir James Carnegie of Pittarrow,
Bart. ; and his great-grandson, Sir James Carnegie,
K.T., sixth Bart, since 1663 (b. 1827; sue. 1849), was
restored to the earldom, by reversal of the act of
attainder, in 1855, and in 1869 was created Baron
Balinhard of Farnell, in the peerage of the United
Kingdom. He holds 22,525 acres in Forfai'shire, valued
at £21,812 per annum.— Or^. Sur., sh. 57, 1868. See
pp. 238-249 of Andrew Jervise's Land of the Lindsays
(2d ed. 1882).

Kinnaird House, an old-fashioned, three-storied man-
sion in Larbert parish, Stirlingshire, 4^ miles N of
Falkirk. It was enlarged and improved by the great
Abyssinian traveller, James Bruce (1730-94), who here
was born, here spent his later years, and here died
through a fall downstairs. He was sixth in descent
from the Rev. Robert Bruce of Kinnaird (1559-1631),
the noted Presbyterian divine ; and both are buried at
Larbert. His great-gi'anddaughter. Lady Elma Bruce,
the eighth Earl of Elgin's eldest daughter, in 1864 married
the present Lord Thurlow, who thus holds 1107 acres in
the shire, valued at £1981 per annum. Kinnaird
village, 3| miles N" of Falkirk, is inhabited principally
by colliers and operatives connected with the industries
of the populous region round Carron Iron-works. Pop.
(1861) 437, (1871) 464, (1881) 336, of whom 249 were
in Larbert parish and 87 in Bothkennar. — Ord. Sur.,
sh. 31, 1867. See Duniphail.

Kinnaird's Head. See FfiASERBUEGH.

Kinneddar. See Drainie.

Kinnefif, a hamlet and a parish on the coast of Kin-
cardineshire. The hamlet lies 23 miles NNE of Bervie
station and 7| S by W of Stonehaven, under which it
has a post office.

The parish, containing also the fishing village of
Caterlixe and a minute part of Bervie royal burgh,
comprises the ancient jiarishes of Kinneft" and Caterliue,
and once comprehended also what now is Bervie parish.

405

KINNEIL

KINNEL WATER

It is bounded N by Dunnottar, E by the German Ocean,
S by Bervie, and W by Arbuthnott. Its utmost lengtli,
from N to S, is 5| mUes ; its utmost breadth, from E
to W, is 4 miles ; and its area is 72-15^ acres, of which
103 are foreshore and 5f water. The river Bervie flows
^ mUe along the southern border to its mouth in Bervie
Bay ; and three burns rise in the interior, and run to
the sea. The coast, 6 miles in length, presents along
its whole extent a range of cliffs over 100 feet high,
pierced with caves, and boldly picturesque ; and, except
where here and there it recedes into little bays, it leaves
no beach between the base of the clifl's and the deep sea
water. Inland the surface rises to 451 feet at Bervie Brow,
477 at Corbicknowe, 495 at Leys Hill, and 710 at Bruxie
Hill on the Arbuthnott border. The predominant rock
is Old Red sandstone conglomerate, traversed by long
veins of calcareous spar, and occasionally intersected or
overlaid by claystone porph}Ty, with embedded crj*stals
of felspar. Hornblende, crystallised quartz, heavy spar,
asbestos, zeolites, and agates have also been found. The
conglomerate is quarried for building and for millstones ;
the claystone porphpy for dyke material. The soil of
the seaboard tract is a deep loam, elsewhere is of in-
ferior quality. Rather more than five-sevenths of the
entire area are in tillage ; barely 60 acres are under
wood ; and the rest of the land is either pastoral or
waste. Kinneflf Castle, at Kinneff hamlet, was garrisoned
by the English when they overran Scotland during David
Bruce's minority ; went gradually to ruin till only one
high, strongly-cemented wall remained standing in the
early part of last century ; and now is represented by
nothing but a fragment of its foundations. Two other
old castles stood on the coast — Cadden or Whistleberry
Castle, h mile NE of Kinneff hamlet, and Adam's Castle,
J mile fiu-ther N. They have left some remains, but
are not known to history. Several tumuli were formerly
on the coast ; an urn, containing a number of bronze
rings, was found near the site of Kinneff Castle ; a
monastic house, now utterly extinct, stood between that
castle and the parish church ; and an earthen pot, contain-
ing a number of old silver coins, and supposed to have been
deposited by the English garrison of Kinneff Castle, was
exhumed about 1837 in the churchyard. The story of
the preservation of the Regalia in the parish church has
been already told under Duxxottae. The celebrated
Dr John Arbuthnot, the intimate friend of Pope and
Swift, and physician to Queen Anne, lived as a young
man for some time at Kinghornie. Four proprietors
hold each an annual value of more, and 7 of less, than
£500. Kinneff is in the presbytery of Fordoun and
synod of Angus and Mearns ; the living is worth £243.
The parish church was rebuilt in 1738, and, as restored
in 1876, contains 424 sittings. Of several old monu-
ments, the most interesting are those to Graham of
Largie (1597), to Governor Sir George Ogilvy of Barras,
to Mr and Sirs Granger, and to the Honeymans, who,
for four generations, from 1663 till 1781, were ministers
of Kinneff. There are also a Free church and Caterline
Episcopal church, St Paul's, the latter an Early English
edifice of 1848. Barras public, Kinneff public, and
Caterline Episcopal schools, with respective accommoda-
tion for 72, 145, and 71 children, had (1881) an average
attendance of 52, 81, and 46, andgrants of £36, Is.,
£68, Is., and £34, 10s. Valuation (1856) £6760, (1883)
£8394. Pop. (1801) 937, (1831) 1006, (1861) 1054,
(1871) 1062, (1881) 997.— Ord. Sur., sh. 67, 1871.
See pp. 396-399 of Andrew Jervise's Layid of the Lind-
says (2d ed. 1882).

Kinneil, a village, a barony, and an ancient parish on
the NW border of Linlithgowshire. The village, stand-
ing on the coast of the Firth of Forth, 5 furlongs WSW
of Borrowstounness, shares in the business and institu-
tions of that town, and contains ironworks, with four
blast furnaces. Pop. (1861) 365, (1871) 370, (1881) 373.
The barony, which lies around the village, was given
by Robert Bruce to Sir Walter Hamilton, ancestor
of the Dukes of Hamilton, and lias ever since re-
mained in possession of liis descendants. In its
physical aspects, it is noted for an expanse of rich
406

carse land contiguous to the Forth, and for traces of
the line of Antoninus' Wall. Kinneil House, 1;^ mile
WSW of Borrowstounness, had undergone large repairs
by the Regent Arran not many years before it was
plundered and burned by Queen Mary's opponents in
1568-70. In the reign of Charles II. it was altered and
highly embellished by Duchess Anne and Duke
William, then passing from the character of a feudal
keep to that of three sides of a quadrangle, surmounted
by cornice and balusters. Crowning the edge of a
bank that rises 60 feet above sea-level, and commanding
from its flat lead-covered roof an extensive and beautiful
view, it is approached by a fine avenue of old trees,
and surrounded with a considerable quantity of natural
wood. It once had such rich internal decorations as
to be described by Sibbald as a ' princely seat ; ' but,
having lost favour with its noble proprietors as a desir-
able residence, it last was tenanted from 1809 till shortly
before his death in 1828 bj* Dugald Stewart, who here
wi-ote most of his celebrated works. Prior to this,
about 1764, Kinneil had been the place where James
Watt matured some of his improvements on the steam-
engine. (See also Gil Burx. ) The ancient parish,
quite or nearl}'- identical with the barony had Borrow-
stounness disjoined from it in 1649, and itself was united
therewith in 1669.— Ord. Sur., sh. 31, 1867.

Kiimell, a parish of E Forfarshire, whose church
stands on the left bank of Lunan Water, If mile ENE
of Friockheim village and station. It is bounded N by
Farnell, E by Craig and Lunan, S by Inverkeilor, SW
by Kirkden, and W by Guthrie. Its utmost length,
from E to W, is 5§ miles ; its utmost breadth, from N
to S, is 3^ miles ; and its area is 6593| acres, of which
16 are water. LuxAX Water flows If mile east-south-
eastward through the south-western corner of the
parish ; and Gighty Burn, its affluent, traces most of
the Inverkeilor border ; whilst head-streams of Pow
Burn, running north-eastward into Farnell towards the
South Esk river, drain the north-western district.
Sinking in the S to 100 feet above sea-level, the surface
generally is low and flat ; but it rises gradually from
the S and AV, and more abruptly from the N, till in
Wuddy Law it culminates at 434 feet. Old Red sand-
stone is the predominant rock ; and the soil is mostly a
clayey loam, either rather stiS" or moorish, with clay
subsoil. About seven-eighths of the entire area are
arable, wood covers some 60 acres, and the rest of the
land is either pastoral or waste. Tradition assigns to
Kinneil the scene of a conflict, in 1443, between the
Lindsays and the Ogilvies, and adds that the spurred
boot of an Ogilvy, slain in the pursuit, was taken ofl'
and hung on an ash tree near the church ; and a rust-
covered spur, 8 inches long and 4| broad, with a rowel
as large as a crown piece, remained on the church wall
till about the end of last century. Three spinning-
mills are in the southern district. Bolshan estate has
been noticed separately, and the property is divided
among four. Kinneil is in the presbytery of Arbroath
and synod of Angus and Llearns ; the living is worth
£286. The church, rebuilt in 1855, is amply commodi-
ous ; and a public school, with accommodation for 147
children, had (1881) an average attendance of 74, and
a gi-ant of £58, 15s. Valuation (1857) £5680, (1883)
£7873, 2)lus £1517 for railway. Pop. (1801) 783, (1831)
786, (1861) 816, (1871) 766, {1881) 696.— Ord. Sur., sh.
57, 1868.

Kinnellar. See Kixellar.

Kinnel Water, a troutful stream of Annandale,
Dumfriesshire. Rising near the Lanarkshire boundaiy,
within 2 furlongs of a head-stream of the Clyde, and
2^ miles N of the summit of Queensberry, it thence
runs 20^ miles south-south-eastward, through or along
the borders of Kirkpatrick-Juxta, Johnstone, Kirk-
michael, and Lochmaben parishes, till, after a total
descent of 1320 feet, it falls into the Annan at a point
1| mile NE of Lochmaben town. It traverses succes-
sively a glen, a defile, and a fertile strath, finely embel-
lished with culture and wood ; is specially picturesque
above and below St Ann's Bridge, adjacent to the

KINNERNIE

demesne of Raeliills ; and receives, in its progress,
Loclian Burn, Ae "Water, and some minor streams. —
Ord. Sur., shs. 16, 10, 186i.

Kinnemie. See Kixearny.

Kinneshead. See Kixxishead.

Kinnesswood, a village in Portmoak parish, Kiuross-
shire, 1 mile EXE of the middle of the E shore of
Loch Leven, and 5 miles by road E by N of Kinross.
It has a fair on the second Tuesday of April o. s. ;
and it was the birthplace of the poet Michael Bruce
(1746-67). Pop. (1841) 479, (1861) 447, (1871) 326.

Kinnethmont. See KEXNEXHiiONT.

Kinnettles, a parish of SW central Forfarshire, con-
taining DocGLASTOWX village, 3J miles SW of Forfar,
under which it has a post office. It is bounded E by
Forfar, SE by Inverarity, S by Inverarity and a frag-
ment of Caputh, and SW and NW by Glamis. Its
utmost length, from NW to SE, is Z\ miles ; its breadth
varies between 6J furlongs and 2J miles ; and its area is
2870| acres, of which 10 J are water. DEA^' Water, from
a little below its exit from Forfar Loch, creeps 2 miles
west-south-westward along the Glamis border ; and
Arity or Kerbit Water, its affluent, flows 4 miles north-
westward on or close to all the south-western boundary,
the last mile of its course having been straightened
in 1876-77. In the NW, at their confluence, the
surface declines to 165 feet above sea-level, and thence
it rises east-south-eastward till it attains 543 feet
at flat-topped Brigtox Hill, which, occupying the
middle of the parish, is a detached member of the
Sidlaws, whilst the low tracts around it are part of
Strathmore. Trap, greywacke, slate, and Old Red sand-
stone are the predominant rocks, and have all been
quarried. The soil, fertile everywhere, is in some parts
a brown clay, in others loam, in others loam mixed
with clay or sand, and in others so light as to require
rich manuring. About 115 acres are under wood, 95
acres are waste, and all the rest of the land is in tillage.
The antiquities are sites of ancient chapels at Kirkton
and Fofl'arty (the latter in the detached portion of
Caputh), and tombstones of the early part of the 17th
century in the churchyard. Kinnettles House, 4 miles
SW of Forfar, was built about 1S67 ; and the estate —
1183 acres in the shire, valued at £2818 per annum-
belongs now to the Bank of Scotland. Other mansions
are Brigton and Invereighty ; and the property is divided
among three. Including quoad sacra the detached frag-
ment of Caputh, Kinnettles is in the presbytery of
Forfar and synod of Angus and Mearns ; the living is
worth £199. The parish church, 5 furlongs SE of
Douglastown, was built in 1812, and contains 360 sit-
tings. There is also a Free church ; and a public
school, with accommodation for 110 children, had (1881)
an average attendance of 72, and a gi-aut of £60, 2s.
Valuation (1857) £4656, (1883) £6529, 4s. Pop. of
civil parish (1801) 567, (1831) 547, (1861) 414, (1871)
378, (1881) 386; of ecclesiastical parish (1881) 418.—
Ord. Sur., shs. 57, 56, 1868-70.

Kinneuchar. See Kilcosqi'hae.

Kinniel. See Kinneil.

Kinning Park. See Govan.

Kinninmonth, a quoad sacra parish of NE Aberdeen-
shire, whose church (1838 ; 300 sittings) stands 3 miles
N by E of Mintlaw. Constituted in 1874, it is in
the presb3-tery of Deer and synod of Aberdeen ; the
minister's stipend is £120. Pop. (1881) 1116, of
whom 626 were in Lonmay, 293 in Strichen, 169 in
the Banfi'shire (detached) section of Old Deer, 17 in
Crimond, and 11 in Longside. — Ord. S^ir., sh. 87, 1876.

Kinnishead, a hamlet, with a railway station, on the
W border of Eastwood parish, Renfrewshire, 1^ mile
SW of PoUokshaws.

Kinnordy, an old-fashioned mansion in Kirrie-
muir parish, Forfarshire, IJ mile NW of Kirrie-
muir town. It was the birth-place and home of the
great geologist, Sir Charles Lyell, Bart. (1797-1875),
whose nephew and successor, Leonard Lyell, Esq. of
Kinnordy and Pitmuies (b. 1850), holds 2585 acres in
the shire, valued at £4324 per annum. — Ord. Sur., sh.

KINNOULL

56, 1870. See the Life of Sir C. Lyell (2 vols., Lond.,
1881).

Kinnoull, a parish of SE Perthshire, consisting of a
main Ijody and three detached sections, and having au
area of 38431 acres, of which 48 are foreshore, 149^ are
water, and 2357 belong to the detached sections. The
main bod}-, containing the Bridgend suburb of Perth,
has an utmost length and breadth of 2^ and Ig miles,
and is boirnded N by Scone, SE by Kinfauns, and W by
the Tay, flowing IJ mile southward along the boundary
with Perth parish, and cleft in twain by lIoncriefF or
Friarton island. The surface sinks by the river to 30
feet above sea-level, and rises eastward thence to 729 feet
on wooded Kinnoull Hill, which, elsewhere easy of ac-
cess, presents on its southern or KiXFAirxs side a fron-
tage of rugged basaltic cliff, not so unlike the Salisbury
Craigs of Edinburgh. From Perth its summit is gained
by a winding carriage-road, called Montagu's Walk after
the Duke of Montagu, who was in Scotland when it was
formed ; and that summit commands a magnificent
prospect, by Pennant entitled ' the glory of Scotland. '
Near the Windy Gowl, a steep and hollow descent be-
twixt two tops of the hill, is a uine-tiraes-repeating
echo ; and on the hill-face is the Dragon Hole, a cave
where Wallace is said to have lain concealed, and where
Beltane fires formerlj'- were kindled. The base of the
hill has yielded many line agates ; and a diamond is said
to have gleamed from its cliffs by night, till a marks-
man, firing at it with a ball of chalk, was able next
day to find its whereabouts — a tale that is told of a
dozen other localities. One detached section, with an
utmost length and breadth of 2^ miles and 1 mile, is
bounded N W and N by Scone, NE by Kilspindie, and
on all other sides by Kinfauns. Its contains the man-
sions of Balthayock and Muerayshall, 3 miles E by
S, and 3 NE of Perth ; and rises north-north-westward
from 190 feet to 700 near New Mains and 916 near
Twomile House. A smaller section, containing Ixchyea
village, 1 mile SAY of Glencarse station, is bounded
NW, N, and NE by Kinfauns, E by St Madoes, and SW
for 15 mile by the Tay, from which the surface rises f
mile Inland to Pans Hill (343 feet) on the northern
boundary. The third and smallest section, containing
Balbeggie vUlage, 5^ miles NE of Perth, is bounded SE
by Kilspindie, and on all other sides by St Martins. It
has an utmost length and breadth of 1^ mile and 6J fur-
longs, and attains a summit altitude of 389 feet. The
surface, thus, of nearly all the parish consists of sides,
shoulders, and summits of the south-western Sidlaws ;
but the Inchyra section comprises part of the western
extremity of the low, flat, fertile Caese of Goweie.
Trap is the principal rock, but Old Red sandstone, in-
cluding a compact and durable variety of a gi-eyish-red
colour, abounds in various parts, and has been largely
quarried. The soil is of almost every variety, and
ranges from strong argillaceous alluvium on the carse to
poor moorish earth on parts of the hills. Rather less
than one -sixth of the entire area is under wood, nearly
all the rest being either arable or pastoral. Kinnoull
barony, extending along the Tay's left bank opposite
Perth, gave the title of Earl in 1633 to George Hay,
Viscount DupPLix, who, dying next year, was buried in
an aisle of the old parish church, St Constantine's,
where a life-size marble statue shows him vested as Lord
Chancellor of Scotland. Of Kinnoidl Castle, ^ mile to
the S, some vestiges remained till the close of last cen-
tury. Seven proprietors hold each an annual value of
£500 and upwards, 17 of between £100 and £500, 48 of
from £50 to £100, and 46 of from £20 to £50. Kin-
noull is in the presbytery of Perth and synod of Perth
and Stirling ; the living is worth £477. The present
church, built in 1826 at a cost of £4000 from designs by
Burn, is a handsome Gothic edifice, with over 1000
sittings. At Balbeggie is a U.P. church (1832; 350
sittings) ; and 2 public schools, Balbeggie and Kinnoull,
with respective accommodation for 120 and 350 children,
had (ISbl) an average attendance of 82 and 322, and
grants of £85, 10s. and £268, 2s. Valuation (1866)
£6136, lis. lOd., (1883) £7198, 5s. 6d. Pop. (1801)

407

KINPIRNIE

1927, (1831) 2957, (1861) 3219, (1871) 3108, (1881)
3461, of whom 2727 were in Perth parliamentary burgh.
—Ord. Sin:, sh. 48, 1868.

Kinpimie. See Neavtyle.

Kinrara. See Alvie.

Kinross, a town and a parish in Kinross-shire. The
town stands, 370 feet above sea-level, near the W end
of Loch Leven, at a convergence of railways, and on the
old direct road from Edinburgh to Perth, b}- road being
13 miles N of Inverkeithing, 27 NNW of Edinburgh,
and 19 SW of Cupar ; by railway, loj N by E of Dun-
fermline, and IS^ WNW of Thornton Junction. Dating
from ancient times, it was treated by Alexander III., in
the early part of his reign, as a sort of capital, and was
the place where he and his young queen were seized in
1257 by the faction of the Comyns. It figures in con-
nection with Queen Mary's escape from Lochleven
Castle, as narrated by Sir Walter Scott in the Abbot ;
and on 6 Sept. 1842 Queen Victoria drove through it on
her way to Perthshire. It was formerly a very mean
place, but has been much improved in recent times.
The streets present a fair appearance, and have been
lighted with gas since 1835 ; and a large proportion of
the private houses are modern, substantial, and neat.
The former town hall was built in 1837 on the site of
the old parish church ; but, proving too small, was re-
placed in 1868 by a new and more commodious structure.
The county hall, erected in 1826 at a cost of £2000, is
a handsome edifice ; its prison was closed in 1878.
Conspicuous on a rising-ground, the parish church was
built in 1832 at a cost of £1537, and is a neat structure
in the Gothic stjde. The Free church was built soon
after the Disruption ; and two U.P. churches belonged
originall)' to the Burgher and Anti-burgher sections of
the Secession. St Paul's Episcopal church, built in
1875 and consecrated in 1881, is Gothic in style, com-
prising chancel, nave, N transept, and tower. The
general aspect of the town, as combined with the land-
scape around, particularly with Loch Leven and the
encincturing hills, is very pleasing. Three lines of
railway go one towards Dollar and Alloa, one towards
Dunfermline and Thornton Junction, and one towards
Ladybank, Perth, and Dundee.

The town has a post office, ^vith money order, savings'
bank, insurance, and telegraph departments, branches
of the British Linen Co. , Clydesdale, and Koj-al Banks,
the Kinross-shire Savings' Bank, agencies of 13 insur-
ance companies, 4 hotels, a library, a reading-room, a
temperance hall, an agricultural societj', two curling
clubs, a fishing club, a cricket club, a masonic lodge,
several benevolent and religious societies, and a Satur-
day newspaper, the Kinross-shire Advertiser (1847). A
weekly corn market is held on ilonday ; cattle, sheep,
and horse fairs are held on the second Monday of June,
and the fourth Monda)' of March, Jul}', and October ;
and a hiring fair is held on the Thursday after the
second Tuesday of October. The manufacture of cutlery
was introduced at a comparatively early period, and
acquired much celebrity ; the manufacture of linen
attained some importance about the middle of last
century, and progressed so well as, in 1790, to employ
nearly 200 looms, and to produce goods to the value of
£5000 a year ; the weaving of cotton was introduced
about 1809, and became so flourishing as to substitute
power looms for hand looms ; the weaving of woollen
fabrics employed many hands from 1836 till 1845 ; and
the manufacture of shawls and plaids was commenced
about 1846, and promised for two or three years to be
highly vigorous and remunerative. But all these de-
partments of industry became extinct, and the buildings
they had occupied ceased to be used as factories. A
wool-spinning mill was erected about 1840 at Bellfield ;
another in 1846 at the S end of the town ; a third about
1867, opposite the second, on the South Queich rivulet;
a fourth and larger one about 1867 in the neighbouring
small town of Milnathort ; a large linen factory about
1874 on the South Queich ; and all these have continued
to prosper. The town was formerly governed by a com-
mittee of the inhabitants, annually chosen at a public
408

KINROSS

meeting ; but now it is governed, under the Genera\
Police and Improvement Act (Scotland) by a senior
magistrate, 2 junior magistrates, and 5 other commis-
sioners. "The sheriff court for the county sits on every
Tuesday during session ; the sheriff small debt court sits
on every Tuesday during session, and once a fortnight,
or oftener if required, during vacation ; and courts of
(juarter session are held on the first Tuesday of March,
Ma}-, and August, and the last Tuesday of October.
Kinross House, on a peninsula between the town and
Loch Leven, is a large and elegant edifice, built in
1685-92 after designs by Sir William Bruce, the
architect of the later portions of Holyrood. It is
commonly but falsely said to have been intended for
a residence of the Duke of York, afterwards James VII.,
in the event of the Exclusion Bill becoming law ; in the
18th century was the seat of the Grahams of Kinross ;
and through the marriage (1816) of Helen, daughter of
the last of these, is now the property of Sir Graham-
Montgomery, Bart, of SroBo Castle, Peeblesshire. An
older mansion, on a site near that of Kinross House,
was for many generations the residence of the Earls of
Morton, and was taken down in 1723. The original
parish church stood near the extremity of the peninsula,
in the south-eastern vicinity of Kinross House ; and,
taking from its situation the name Kinross (Gael, ceann-
rois, ' head of the promontory '), bequeathed that name
to the town and parish. The municipal constituency
numbered 296 in 1883, when the annual value of real pro-
perty within the burgh was £5283. Pop. (1841) 2062,
(1851) 2590, (1861) 20S3, (1871) 1926, (1881) 1960.
Houses (1881) 507 inhabited, 40 vacant, 1 building.

The parish is bounded N by Orwell, E by Loch Leven,
SE by Portmoak, S by!Cleish, and W by Fossoway.
Its utmost length, from E to W, is 4| miles ; its utmost
breadth, from N to S, is 4 miles ; and its area is 10,588
acres, of which 3313^ are water. To Loch Leven flow
North Queich "Water, running 2 miles east-south-east-
ward on or close to the northern border ; South Queich
Water, running 4^ miles east-by-southward through the
interior ; and Gairney Water, running 3| miles east-
north-eastward along the Cleish and Portmoak boundary.
The surface, flat over its eastern half, rises gradually
westward from 360 feet above sea-level to 536 at Wester
Cockairney and 629 at Hillhead in the NW corner;
and, being rimmed in the four circumjacent parishes by
a cordon of hills, is often called the Laigh or Level of
Kinross. The rocks are trap, sandstone, and limestone.
The soil is partly clay, but chiefly a thin blackish loam
on a gravelly bottom. About 280 acres are under
wood ; nearly 160 are pastoral or waste ; and almost all
the rest of the land is arable. Lochleven Castle is a
chief antiquity, and, with Loch Leven itself, is separ-
ately noticed. Gallows Knowe, on the Lathro estate,
appears to have been a place of public execution in the
feudal times, and was found in 1822 to contain thirteen
old graves. About 350 silver coins, chiefly of Edward I.
and Edward II. of England, were discovered in 1820 on
the lands of Coldon ; and an ancient circular gold seal
was exhumed in 1829 on the grounds of West Green.
Among its natives were the distinguished architect, Sir
William Bruce, and the Edinburgh professor of patho-
logy, Dr John Thomson. Seventeen proprietors hold
each an annual value of £500 and upwards, 22 of between
£100 and £500, 15 of from £50 to £100, and 45 of from
£20 to £50. Kinross is tlie seat of a presbytery in the
synod of Fife ; the living is worth £381. The two
public schools, North and South, with respective accom-
modation for 300 and 115 children, had (1881) an
average attendance of 214 and 73, and grants of £194
and £46, 19s. 6d. Valuation (1860) £15,419, (1882)
£16,800, 10s. 3d. Pop. (1801) 2124, (1831) 2917, (1861)
2649, (1S71) 2477, (1881) 2492.— Ord Sur., sh. 40, 1867.

The presbytery of Kinross comprises the old parishes
of Arngask, Ballingry, Cleish, Fossoway, Kinross,
Muckart, Orwell, and Portmoak, with the quoad sacra
parish of Blairingone. Pop. (1871) 9582, (1881) 8422,
of whom 2674 were communicants of the Church of
Scotland in 1883. — The Free Church also has u presby-

KINROSSIE

tery of Kinross, with churclies at Cowdenbeath, Fossoway,
Keltj-, Kinross, Orwell, Portmoak, and Strathmiglo,
which 7 churches together had 1025 communicants in
18S3. — The United Presbyterian Church has likewise a
presbyterj' of Kinross, with 2 churches in Kinross, and
5 in Balgedie, Edenshead, Milnathort, JIuckart, and
Pathstruie, the 7 having 1293 members in 1881.

Kinrossie, a village in Collace parish, Perthshire, 8
miles NE by X of Perth, under which it has a post office.

Elmross-shire, a small inland county, bounded W and
N by Perthshire, E and S by Fife. Its utmost length,
from N to S, is 91 miles ; its breadth varies between 2^
and 12^ miles ; and its area is 49,812;^ acres, of which
3327^ are water. Loch Levex (3| x 2| miles) lies in
the SE of the county at an altitude of 353 feet, and
receives the North and the South Queich, with a num-
ber of lesser burns ; but the drainage is partly carried
eastward to the Edex, partly northward to the Faeg
and the Water of JIay. From Loch Leven the surface
rises eastward to White Craigs (1492 feet), southward to
Bexakty (1167) and Dumglow (1241), westward to
"White Hill 734), and north-westward to Cloon (1134),
Melloch Hill (1573), Warroch Hill (1133), Slungie Hill
(1354), Dochrie Hill (1194), and Tilliery Hill (1087).
Thus a cordon of hills forms the greater part of the
county's boundary, and projects more or less within its
borders — the Ochils on the W and NW, the Lomond
Hills on the E, and Benarty and the Cleish Hills on
the S. Several depressions, variously defile, glen, and
valle)', cut the engirdling hills into sections — a wide
one on the W, leading to Dollar and Stirling ; another
wide one on the XE, leading to Strathmiglo and Auch-
termuchty ; a narrow one on the SE, traversed by the
river Leven ; and a considerable one on the S, leading
towards Inverkeithing and Edinburgh. The central
districts are occupied by Loch Leven and the Laigh or
Level of Kinross ; the districts between these and the
hills are a diversity of slopes and braes ; and the aspect
of the entire county, though destitute of any of the
first-class features of landscape, presents to the eye a
profusion of charms both natural and artificial.

Geology. — The oldest rocks in the count}' are of Lower
Old Red Sandstone age, and are merely a continuation
of the volcanic series so well developed in Perthshire
and Fife. The members of this series are arranged in
the form of a low anticlinal fold, the axis of which runs
in an EXE and WSW direction. The boundary between
the NW part of this county and Perthshire coincides
with this axis, and hence the volcanic series in Kinross
is gently inclined to the SSE. The members of this
series consist of lavas and volcanic breccias which form
the hilly portion of the county to the W and N. The
lavas have usually a purple tint, and vary in texture
from close grained to highly porphyritic rocks. One
bed, which is highl j- porphyritic, occupies a considerable
area owing to the gentle inclination of the strata. It
occurs in patches which have been isolated from the
main out crop by means of denudation, and which have
been left as outliers capping several hill-tops, of which
the most conspicuous example is on Dochrie Hill. The
volcanic breccias or agglomerates are extremely coarse,
and constitute a large portion of this formation. The
lowest members of the volcanic series in Kinross, which
are well displayed in the river Devon at 'the Crook,'
are composed of this material, and through these beds
the famous gorge at Eumbling Bridge has been ex-
cavated, ilany of the bombs in this agglomerate are
of enormous size, and consist of the same material as
the lavas. In the NE of the county, layers of sandstone
are intercalated with the lavas and ashes in some of the
tributaries of the North Queich, while still further to the
NE the breccias assume a conglomeratic character as if
they had been assorted by water. The facts clearly
point to the gradual attenuation of the volcanic series
towards the NE, and to the increasing accumulation of
ordinary sediment in that direction.

Pieference has already been made to the great changes
which intervened betAveen the Lower and Upper Old
Eed Sandstone periods (see art. GeoL of Fife, vol. II.
63

KINROSS-SHIRE

Ord. Gaz., p. 19), of which additional evidence mav be
obtained within the county. The strata of Upper 'Old
Eed age, consisting of friable red sandstones, marls, and
conglomerates, rest unconformably on the Lower Old
Eed volcanic series, and dip away from the volcanic
platform at gentle angles. The plain of Kinross coin-
cides in the main with the area occupied by the younger
formation, and along the S margin of this plain the
strata pass conformably below the cementstone series.
The hills to the S and E of the county are due to in-
trusive sheets of basalt which now cap those eminences,
and which were injected among the softer strata in late
Carboniferous times. The steep slopes of the Cleish
Hills, Benarty, Bishop Hill, and West Lomond have
been caused by the rapid denudation of the friable sand-
stones and marls at the base of the hills, while the cap-
pings of basalt have shielded the lowest members of the
Carboniferous Limestone series overlying them. Speci-
mens of Holo'ptycliius nohilissinms have been obtained
from the Upper Old Eed beds in this county, and
scales of fishes are to be found in many of the stone
dykes in the neighbourhood of the town of Kinross.
On the flanks of the Bishop Hill these red beds are suc-
ceeded by friable yellow sandstones which form the W
prolongation of the beds at Dura Den.

The Carboniferous strata represented in the cormty
belong to the two lowest divisions of that formation,
viz. : (1.) the Calciferous Sandstone ; (2.) the Carboni-
ferous Limestone. There are two types of the calciferous
sandstones or cementstones, one of which is composed
of friable yellow sandstones bearing a close resemblance
to the beds at Dura Den. The other variety comprising
blue and rusty yellow clays with thin bands and nodules
of cementstone is met with in the extreme SW of the
county on the slopes overlooking the Pow Bum. Near
the top of the group, thin beds of tuff are intercalated
with the cementstones which are overlaid bj^ the lowest
or ' Hurlet ' limestone of the Carboniferous Limestone
series. It is evident that in this neighbourhood we
have the eastward prolongation of the beds forming the
Campsie Fells, which are abruptly truncated by the
fault at Causewayhead near Stirling. There is only a
small development of the carboniferous limestone within
the county which is met with in the E and S districts.
The limestone which is worked on the Lomond and
Bishop Hills is on the horizon of the Huilet limestone
of Stirlingshire.

The volcanic series of the Ochils is intersected by
dykes of basalt running in an E and W direction, which
are well seen in the neighbourhood of Damhead in the
NE part of Kinross-shire.

The direction of the ice-flow on the hills overlooking
the plain of Kinross is SE, but over the low ground the
trend veers round to the E. The evidence supplied by
the striated surfaces and the boulder clay points to the
conclusion that the Ochils must have been overtopped
by the ice which radiated from the Perthshire High-
lands. The greater part of the low lying and fertile
districts is covered with an extensive development of
morainic gravel, which was probably accumulated during
the retirement of the ice sheet. This deposit streamsfrom
the various passes in the Ochils, and spreads out in a fan-
shaped form over the plain of Kinross. Loch Leven fills a
depression in these gravels and the underlying boulder
clay, and the various islets are merely kames or ridges
of gTavel peering above the water. The Devon, North
and South Queich, and Gairney Waters carry a large
quantity of detritus from the hills down to the plain
which forms wide alluvial flats. By this means several
small lochs have been entirely silted up, and Loch Leven
itself is being slowly reduced in size from the same cause.

The soil, occasionally clay, more often a fine blackish
loam, and oftener still of a moorish character, on the
whole, however, is light or .«andy, with small intermix-
ture of clayey loam. The climate, owing to the general
elevation of the land, and to the peculiar influence of
the encircling hills, is cold and wet ; but it has been
materially improved by recent draining operations ; and
is not considered unhealthy. During 1842-82, the

409

KINROSS-SHIRE

maximum yearly rainfall was 507 inches in 1876, the
minimum 22"8 in 1870, and the average 36 '3.

Modern agi-icultnial improvement was of later com-
mencement and slower progress in Kinross-shire than
in most other districts of Scotland ; and it had here to
operate on an unusually large proportion of waste lands,
and to encounter the resistance of antique usages re-
tained from feudal times ; but it eventually made such
rapid progress as soon to bring the county nearly or
quite into a condition of equality with the best parts of
Fife, or even of great part of the Lothians. In the
whole of Scotland the percentage of cultivated area is
only 24 '2 ; iu Kinross-shire it rises as high as 62'8 — a
figure exceeded only by Fife, Linlithgow, Berwick, and
Haddington shires. Out of 293 holdings, there are 136
of 50 acres and under, 32 of from 50 to 100 acres, 102
of from 100 to 300, 21 of from 300 to 500, and 2 of from
500 to 1000. Farms are generally let on leases of from
14 to 21 years. Tlie following table gives the acreage
of the crops and the number of live stock iu Kinross-
shire in different years : —

1 1S67.

1S76.

1SS2.

Com Crops,

8SS9

7630

7133

Green Crops, .

4711

4021

3609

Sown Grasses, .

10.327

11,208

10,152

Permanent Pasture,

CS99

8518

10,657

Cattle,

5003

6133

5633

Sheep,

35,743

23,155

26,694

Horses, .

1011

1042

Swine,

759

597

722

The luanufactures, except in the ordinary departments
of handicrafts, are all situated in Kinross and Milna-
thort, and will be found noticed in our articles on these
towns. The only railways are the three which converge
at Kinross ; but these afford a fair proportion of rail-
way communication within the county, and gave ready
access to every part of the kingdom. All the roads are
good ; and that northward through Kinross is one of
the best in Scotland. The only towns are Kinross and
Milnathort, and villages are Maryburgh, Kinneswood,
Scotlandwell, Middleton, Crook of Devon, Duncrevie,
and parts of Damhead and Kelty. Mansions are Blair-
adam House, TuUiebole Castle, Hattonburn, Kinross
House, Cleish Castle, Arnot Tower, Moreland, Thoma-
nean, Warroch, Kinneston, Shanwell, Easter and Wester
Balado, Kilduff, etc. ; and, according to Miscellaneous
Statistics of the United Kingdom (1879), 44,888 acres,
valued at £64,472 per annum, were divided among 727
proprietors, two together holding 5205 acres (£6215),
six 8757 (£8978), fourteen 9030 (£8858), seventy-seven
19,348 (£23,919), fourteen 1042 (£4799), etc.

The county is governed by a lord lieutenant, a vice-
lieutenant, 6 deputy-lieutenants, a sheriff, a sheriff-
substitute, and 71 commissioners of supply and jus-
tices of peace. The sheriff-court sits at Kinross on
every Tuesday during session; the sheriff small-
debt court is held there on every Tuesday dur-
ing session, and once a fortnight or oftener during
vacation ; and quarter sessions are held there on the
first Tuesday of March, May, and August, and on the
last Tuesday of October. The police force, in 1882,
comprised 5 men ; and the salary of the chief constable
was £112. The persons tried at the instance of the
police, in 1881, were 45 ; those convicted, 43 ; those
committed for further trial, 7. The yearly average of
committals for crime, in 1846-50, was 9 ; in 1851-55 11 •
in 1856-60, 8 ; in 1861-65, 5 ; in 1865-69, 5 ; in 1872-
76, 7 ; in 1877-81, 6. Kinross-shire unites with Clack-
MAXXANSHiiiE In Sending a member to parliament ; and
its constituency numbered 649 in 1883. The annual
value of real i)roperty was £25,805 in 1815, £46,725 in
1855, £67,101 in 1876, £70,118 in 18S0, and £68,250 in
1883. Pop. (1801) 6725, (1821) 7762, (1831) 9072,
(1841) 876.3, (1851) 8924, (1861) 7977, (1871) 7198,
(1881) 6697, of whom 3585 were females, and 3360
were rural. Houses (1881) 1705 inhabited, 198 vacant,
8 building,
410

KINTAIL

The registration countj" takes in part of Fossoway
parish from Perthshire ; gives off part of Forgandenny
to Perthshire, and part of Anigask to Fife ; and
comprises the five entire parishes of Cleish, Fosso-
way, Kinross, Orwell, and Portmoak, which in 1881
had a population of 7330. The number of registered
poor, in the year ending 14 May 1881, was 113 ; of de-
pendants on these, 60 ; of casual poor, 1097 ; of depend-
ants on these, 72. The receipts for the poor in that year
were £1732, 3s. 8d. ; and the expenditure was £1635,
Os. 2|d. The number of pauper lunatics was 27, their cost
of maintenance being £533, 3s. lOd. The percentage of
illegitimate births was 7 '4 in 1871, 137 in 1872, 77 iu
1877, 11-2 in 1878, 7-6 in 1S79, and 10-5 in 1881.

The civil county is divideJ, for both civil and eccle-
siastical purposes, into the four entire parishes of Cleish,
Kinross, Orwell, and Portmoak, and parts of Arngask,
Forgandenny, and Fossoway. Excepting the part of
Forgandenny, which is in the presbj'tery of Perth and
sjTiod of Perth and Stirling, it lies wholly within the pres-
bj'tery of Kinross and synod of Fife. Places of worship
within it are 6 of the Church of Scotland, 5 of the Free
Church, 4 of the United Presbyterians, and 1 of Episcopa-
lians. In the year ending Sept. 1882 there were 8
schools (7 of them public), which, with accommodation
for 1324 children, had 1000 on the rolls, and an average
attendance of 785. Their staff consisted of 13 certifi-
cated, 2 assistant, and 5 pupil teachers.

The county is of very ancient date. In Nisbet's
Heraldry the name of John Kinross is mentioned as
sheriff thereof in 1252. In the Eecjistrum Magni Sicjilli
Begum Scotorum there are many charters of David 11,
and Eobert II. (from 1366 to 1407) in which grants of
lands are described as lying 'infra vicecomitatum de
Kynros ' — among others being ' Castrum nostrum lacus
de Levyn cum 2}ertinentibus' (Rob. II, 1371). That
Kinross-shire became a separate county in 1426 is a
pure historic fallac}^, traceable probably to the fact that
in that year Kinross and Clackmannan were ordered or
appointed to send each a representative to the Scottish
parliament. It comprised originally the three parishes
of Kinross, Orwell, and Portmoak ; but in 1685, in
order, as the Act says, to enlarge the boundaries of the
small sheriffdom then presided over by Sir "William
Bruce, an act of parliament was obtained by which the
parishes of Cleish and TuUibole, along with portions of
Arngask and Orwell, which had formerly been within
the county of Perth, were added to the original sheriff-
dom, and have ever since formed the county proper,
although the boundaries of the county for parliamentary
voting purposes are considerably larger, comprehending
the parishes of Fossoway, Muckart, and part of Forgan-
denny. Its history, excepting so much of the incidents
in the life of Queen Mary as will be noticed in our article
Loch Levex, possesses no point of special interest. Its
chief antiquities are noticed under Cleish, Burleigh,
Portmoak, and Loch Leven. — Ord. Sur., sh. 40, 1867.

Kintail, a village and a parish of SW Ross-shire.
The village stands on the northern shore of the head of
Loch Duich, 13 miles SE of Strome Ferry station, and 8
ESE of Lochalsh village, under which it has a post office.

The parish, containing also the fishing villages of
BuNDALLOCH and DoRNiE, is bounded NW by Loch
Long and by Lochalsh parish, N by Lochalsh, E by
Kilmorack in Inverness-shire, S by Glenshiel, and SAV by
Loch Duich. Its utmost length, from ENE to WSW,
is 19| miles; its utmost breadth is 9J miles ; and its area
is 123f square miles, or 78,993| acres, of which 238|
are foreshore, 58 tidal water, and 1255* water. Nar-
row, curving Loch Long and broader, straighter Loch
Duich, the forked continuations of salt-water Loch Alsh,
are noticed separately, as also are the Pass of Bealach,
Ellandonan Castle, and the Falls of Glomach. To
the head of Loch Long flow the river Lin^ or Long,
running 11 miles west - south - westward from Loch
Cruashie (4 x 1^ furl. ; 850 feet) along the northern and
north-western boundary, and the river Elciiaig, formed
by two head-streams at an altitude of 290 feet, and
running 6^ miles west-north-westward ; whilst to the

KINTESSACK

head of Loch Duich flows the Ceoe, over its last 1\ mile
dividing Kintail from Glenshiel. The drainage, how-
ever, is partly carried towards the Moray Firth by the
Cannich, flowing 2 miles east-b3'-northward from Loch
Glasletter or Lungard (1^ mile x '2J furl. ; 761 feet)
to Loch MuLLARDOCH {4|: miles x 1^ to 4 furl. ; 705 feet),
whose upper waters belong to Kintail, and lower to
Kilmorack. The surface everywhere is grandlj' moun-
tainous, chief elevations from "W to E being Sgurr an
Airgid (2757 feet), Glasveix (3006), *Sgurr nan Ceath-
reamhnan (3771), *Mam Sodhail or Cam Eige (3S77), and
*Sgurr na Lapaich (3773), where asterisks mark those
summits that culminate on the confines of the parish.
' From whatever quarter Kintail is entered, whether by
sea from the "W or by land from the E, a scene gradually
unfolds itself which it is impossible to describe. Moun-
tains of immense magnitude, grouped together in the
sublimest manner, with wood and water, scars and bens
intermingled, present a prospect seldom surpassed in
wild beauty, and equally interesting and astonishing in
the storms of winter and in the calm serenity of summer. '
Gneiss is the predominant rock, but granite and syenite
also occur. Sheep-farming constitutes the staple in-
dustry, there being some very fine grazing lands along
Loch Duich, principally green, but steep and rocky.
Sir Alex. Matheson, Bart., holds rather more than two-
thirds, and the Chisholm somewhat less than one-fourth,
of the entire rental. The lord, however, of the Barony
of Kintail is James Mackenzie, Esq. of Glex.muick,
who purchased it from the Mackenzies of Seaforth in
1869, and who holds 25,500 acres in Ross-shire, valued
at £1983 per annum. Kintail is in the presbytery of
Lochcarron and synod of Glenelg ; the living is worth
£210, exclusive of manse and glebe. The old parish
chmxh, at the village, having been declared unsafe in
1855, a new one was built containing 450 sittings. At
Dornie is a Roman Catholic church, St Duthac's (1861 ;
170 sittings), erected by the late Duchess of Leeds.
Dornie public, Inverinate public, Killilan public, and
Dornie Roman Catholic schools, with respective accom-
modation for 50, 49, 60, and 88 children, had (1881) an
average attendance of 31, 20, 26, and 23. and grants of
£26, £27, 14s., £39, 17s., and £18, 12s. Valuation
(1860) £4190, (1882) £6143. Pop. (1801) 1038, (1831)
1240, (1861) 890, (1871) 753, (1881) 688, of whom 652
were Gaelic -speaking. — Orel. Sur., shs. 72, 82, 1880-82.
Kintessack, a village with a public school, in Dyke
and Moy parish Elginshire, 4 miles WXW of Forres,
under which it has a post office.
Kintillo. See Kixtulloch.

Kintore, a small town and a parish of central Aber-
deensh-'je. The town, standing 165 feet above sea-level,

near the right bank of
the Don, has a station
on the Great JTorth of
Scotland railway, 16
milesEofAlford, 3SSE
of Inverurie, and Id^
NW of Aberdeen. It
ranks as a royal burgh
under charter of William
the ^Lyon, but in size
is no more than a
mere village, consisting
chiefly of one well-built
street, with several very
good shops. At it are
a post office, with money
order, savings' bank,
and railway telegrapli
departments, a branch
of the North of Scot-
land bank, a National
Security savings' bank
(1837), 4 insurance
agencies, 2 hotels, a
plain town hall (1740), a parish church (1819 ; 700
sittings), a Free church, and a horticultural society.
The town has given the title of Earl in the peerage of

Seal of Kintore.

KINTYRE

Scotland since 1677, and of Baron in the peerage of the
United Kingdom since 1838, to the family of Keith-
Falconer, wliose seats are Keithhall in Aberdeenshire
and Inglismaldie in Kincardineshire. The burgh is
governed by a provost, 2 bailies, a dean of guild, a
treasurer, and 9 councillors ; and it unites with Elgin,
Inverurie, Peterhead, Bantf, and CuUen in sending a
member to parliament. The parliamentary constituency
numbered 89 in 1883, when the annual value of real
property amounted to £2612. Pop. (1821) 312, (1841)
462, (1861) 568, (1871) 659, (1881) 661. Houses (1881)
113 inhabited, 3 vacant.

The parish, containing also the Port Elphinstone
suburb of Inverurie burgh, comprises the ancient parish
of Kintore and part of that of Kinkell. It is bounded
N by Inverurie, E by Keithhall and Fiutray, SE by
Kinnellar, S by Skene, and W by Kemnay. Its utmost
length, from N to S, is 5§ miles ; its breadth, from E
to AV, varies between 1§ and 4g miles ; and its area is
9187 acres, of which 93 J are water. The Don winds
6J miles along all the northern and the eastern border,
and is fed from the interior by three or four small burns.
The land adjacent to the river is low and flat, sinking
in the SE to 148 feet above sea-level, and protected
from inundation by embankments. The surface rises
thence westward aud south-westward, with frequent
inequalities ; and the highest ground is Crichie or
Thainston Hill (500 feet), beautifully covered with
wood. Granite is the predominant rock, and has been
quarried. The soil along the Don is a deep, rich,
alluvial loam ; on many higher gi-ounds, is a thin,
light, shallow, sandy mould ; and over some consider-
able tracts, is either moss in natural condition or moss
subjected to cultivation. Fully three-eighths of the
entire area are in tillage, woods cover rather more than
one-fifth, and the rest is either pastoral or waste. Hall-
forest Castle has been noticed separately. Other anti-
quities are remains of two stone circles ; five sculptured
stones, figured in Dr John Stuart's Scul2)tured Stones of
*Scoite'/icZ (Spalding Club, 1867) ; and the 'Deer Dykes,'
an enclosure to the NW of the town, supposed by some
to have been a Roman camp. Sir Andrew Mitchell,
ambassador to the court of Prussia in the time of
Frederick the Great, resided at Thainston House ; and
Arthur Johnston, the celebrated writer of Latin poetry,
attended the parish school. Thainstox is the only
mansion ; and its owner divides with the Earl of Kintore
the greater part of the parish, 2 lesser proprietors hold-
ing each an annual value of between £100 and £500,
4 of from £50 to £100, and 26 of from £20 to £50.
Kintore is in the presbji;ery of Garioch and synod of
Aberdeen ; the living is worth £294. Kintore public.
Port Elphinstone public, and Leylodge Church of Scot-
land schools, -vnth respective accommodation for 250,
153, and 86 children, had (1881) an average attendance
of 198, 117, and 50, and grants of £185, 14s., £107,
15s. 2d., and £51, 14s. Valuation (1860) £5409, (1832)
£7524, 8s. 4d., plus £1295 for railway. Pop. (ISOl)
846, (1831) 11S4, (1861) 1895, (1871) 2158, (1881) 2327.
— Orel. Sur., sh. 76, 1874. See Alexander Watt's
Early History of Kintore, {ISQi).

Kintra, a village in Kilfinichen and Kilvickeon
parish, Mull Island, Argyllshire, at the extremity of the
Ross of Mull, 6J miles WNW of Bunessan.

KintuUoch, a village in Dunbarny parish, SE Perth-
shire, h mile S by W of Bridge of Earn. Pop. (1861)
119, (1881) 96.

Kintyre, the southernmost district of Argyllshire,
consisting chiefly of a peninsula, but including the
islands of Gigha, Cara, aud Sanda, with several islets.
The peninsula is prevented only by the narrow isthmus
of Tarbert from being an island. From Knapdale it is
separated by that isthmus and by East Loch Tarbert
and West Loch Tarbert ; it flanks the W side of Loch
Fyne downward from East Loch Tarbert, and the W
side of the Firth of Clyde all downward from the
mouth of Loch Fyne ; audit terminates, at the southern
extremity, in a bold broad promontory called the MuU
of Kintyre. It probably took its name (Gael. cea7in-tir,

411

EIP

'head-land;' Cym. Pcntir) either from that promontory
or from its own position as a long projection southward
from the Scottish mainland ; it measures 42^ miles in
extreme length from N by E to S by W, whilst its width
varies between 4^ and 11^ miles. A chain of hill and
mountain, culminating in Ben-an-Tuip.c (1491 feet),
runs along its middle, with varied declivity on either
side to belts of low sea-board ; and it presents, from end
to end, a considerable variety and large amount of
pleasing landscape, containing a greater proportion of
cultivated land than almost any other district of equal
extent in the Highlands. Visited by Agricola in the
summer of 82 a.d., Kint3Te became the cradle of the
Dalriadan kingdom, and competed in a measure with
lona as a centre of missionary establishments. From
the time of Magnus Barefoot till the 17th century it
ranked as part of the Hebrides, and figures in history
till then as if it had been an island, always forming
part of the dominions of the Lords of the Isles. In the
15th century it was an object and a scene of great con-
test between the Macdonalds and the Campbells ; and,
in 1476, it was resigned to the Crown. The Mull of
Kintyre, which was known to Ptolemy as the Epidium
Promontorium, to the Romans as the Promontorium
Caledoniffi, is the nearest point of Great Britain to Ire-
land, projecting to within 13 miles of Tor Point in the
county of Antrim. It presents a strong front to the
waves of the Atlantic, and in time of a storm exhibits a
wild and sublime appearance, being overhung by Beinn
na Lice (1405 feet), which commands a magnificent view.
A lighthouse, built in 1787 on a point of the pro-
montory called Merchants' Rocks, rises to a height of
297 feet above the level of the sea at high water; and
shows a fixed light, visible at the distance of 24 nautical
miles.

The presbytery of Kintyre, in the synod of Argyll,
comprehends the quoad civilia parishes of Campbel-
town, Gigha, Kilbride, Kilcalmonell, Killean, Kilmorie,
Saddell, and Southend, with the quoad sacra parishes of
Brodick and Skipness ; and its court meets at Campbel-
town on the last Wednesday of March, April, June
September, and November. Pop. (1871) 19,201, (1881)
19,421, of whom 2418 were communicants of the Church
of Scotland in 1878. — The Free Church also has a
presbytery of Kintyre, with 2 churches in Campbel-
town, 8 at Kilberry, Kilbride, Kilcalmonell, Killean,
Kilmorie, Lochranza, Shiskan, and Whiting Bay, and
2 preaching stations at Carradale and Gigha, which
12 together had 3314 members and adherents in 1883.

See Southend, Campbeltown, Killean, Saddell,
and Kilcalmonell ; Cuthbert Bede's Glencreggan (2
vols., Lond., 1861) ; and Capt. T. P. White's Archceo-
logical Sketches in Kintyre (Edinb. 1873).

Kip, a rivulet of Innerkip parish, Renfrewshire,
winding 4 miles westward till it falls into the Firth
of Clyde 3 furlongs WSW of Innerkip village. In its
lower course it traverses a wooded glen ; and it contains
good store of trout, but is strictly preserved. — Ord. Sur.,
shs. 30, 29, 1866-73.

Kipford, a hamlet in Colvend parish, Kirkcudbright-
shire, on the left bank of Urr Water, immediately above
its expansion into estuary, 4 miles S of Dalbeattie,
under which it has a post office.

Kippen, a village in Stirlingshire and a parish partly
also in Perthshire. The village S'tands, 210 feet above
sea-level, 1 mile SSW of Kijjpen station on the Forth
and Clyde Junction section of the North British, this
being 9 miles W of Stirling, 6 J ENE of Bucklyvie, and
21^ ENE of Balloch. It carried on extensive whisky
distillation for some time into this century, and it now
is a small centre of country trade, having a post office
under Stirling, with money order, savings' bank, and
railway telegraph departments, two hotels, and a cattle
fair on the second Wednesday of December, whilst
Balgair horse, cattle, and sheep fair is held upon Kippen
Muir, 2if miles to the SW, on the Friday before 26
June. "The Gillespie Memorial Hall, accommodating
300 persons, is an Early English edifice, with lancet
windows, open timber roof, and stained woodwork, and
412

KIPPENROSS

was built in 1877-78 at a cost of £1500. The parish
church, a handsome Gothic structure of 1825, with a
clock-tower, was greatly improved during the fifteen
years' ministry of the Rev. William Wilson, being
rebenched and adorned with a beautiful pulpit and with
four stained memorial windows by Messrs Ballantine,
to which a fifth was added in 1882 in memory of Mr
Wilson himself A new Free church was built in 1879.
Pop. (1841) 397, (1861) 403, (1871) 360, (1881) 330.

The parish, containing also the villages of Buck-
lyvie, Cauldhajie, and Arnpeiok, lies all compact
on the S side of the Forth. It is bounded N by Port
of Monteith, Kincardine (detached), and Kilmadock, E
by Gargunnock, S by Balfron, and W by Drymen. Its
utmost length, from E by N to W by S, is 6§ miles ;
its breadth, from N to S, varies between If and 3|
miles ; and its area is 11,331J acres, of which 76 are
water, and 4966| belong to the two Perthshire sections
— the smaller containing Cauldhame, and the larger
Arnprior. The winding Forth flows 8| miles eastward
(only 4| miles as the crow flies) along all the northern
border ; its affluent, Boquhan Burn, runs 3^ miles
north-north-eastward along the Gargunnock boundary
through a beautiful wooded glen ; and four or five
lesser streams flow to the Forth from the interior, whose
chief sheets of water are the Jlill Dam (2x1 furl. ) and
Loch Leggan (2 x 1^ furl.). Along the Forth a narrow
belt of very fertile haugli declines to 40 feet above sea-
level ; a belt of carse-ground, ^ to 1 mile in breadth,
but in places broader, extends immediately behind this
belt, and forms part of the great plain that flanks the
Forth from Gartmore to Borrowstounness ; the surface
then rises, at first abruptly, afterwards very gradually,
to the breadtli of 1 mile or more ; and the land thence
onward to the southern boundary is a moorish plateau,
attaining 539 feet near Muirton of Arngibbon, 600 at
Kippen Muir, and 575 at Bucklyvie Muir — vantage
grounds these that command magnificent views of the
far-reaching strath, away to where the rocks of Craig-
forth, Stirling Castle, and Abbey Craig appear like
islands in the distance. Red sandstone abounds on the
moors, and has been largely quarried for building ; and
limestone occurs on the southern border. The soil of
the narrow haugli is very fertile, and eminently suited
to the growth of potatoes and turnips ; of the carse
ground is a rich clay ; of the braes further S is gravelly,
sandy, or loamy ; and of the moors is heathy. Rather
less than half of the entire ai'ea is in tillage ; about 550
acres are imder wood ; and the rest is either pastoral or
waste. Antiquities are vestiges of five or six Roman,
Pictish, or feudal forts — the ' Keir hills.' A famous
Covenanters' conventicle, for celebration of the Lord's
Supper, was held in 1676, 1 mile to the W of Kippen
village ; and a Covenanting force of between 200 and
300 men was marshalled in the parish in 1679, and
figured bravely in the battle of Bothwell Bridge under
James Ure of Shirgarton, whose tomb is still shown in
the churchyard. Ihe principal mansions, noticed sepa-
rately, are Arngomery and Garden ; and 5 proprietors
hold each an annual value of £500 and upwards, 7 of
between £100 and £500, and 3 of from £50 to £100.
Since 1875 giving ofl' a portion to Bucklyvie quoad sacra
parish, Kippen is in the presbytery of Dunblane and
synod of Perth and Stirling ; the living is worth £409.
Four public schools — Arnprior, Bucklyvie, Castlehill
female, and Kippen — with respective accommodation for
100, 120, 97, and 95 children, had (1881) an average
attendance of 69, 84, 76, and 66, and grants of £66, 2s.
6d., £82, 5s., £64, 8s., and £76, 8s. Valuation (1883)
£12,759, 16s. 4d., of which £4590, 13s. 7d. was for the
Perthshire sections. Pop. (1801) 1722, (1831) 2085,
(1861) 1722, (1871) 1568, (1881) 1257, of whom 457
belonged to Perthshire, and 984 to the ecclesiastical
parish.— Orrf. Sur., shs. 39, 38, 1869-71.

Kippendavie. See Kippenross.

Kippenross, a mansion, with beautiful grounds, in
Dunblane parish, S Perthshire, near the left bank of
Allan Water, | mile SSE of Dunblane town. It is the
seat of Patrick Stirling, Esq. of Kippendavie (b. 1846 ;

KIPPFORD

sue. 18S2), who holds 6111 acres in the shire, valued at
£55S6 per annum, and whose ancestor got a charter of
the lands of Kippendavie from his father, Arch. Stirling
of Keii', in 1594. A sycamore on the lawn, known as
' the big tree of Kippenross ' so long ago as the time of
Charles II., measui'ed 42^ feet in girth immediately
above the gi-ound, but some years since was snapped
across bv a gale. Kippendavie House stands 1 mile
KNE of Dunblane.— Orti. Sur., sh. 39, 1S69.

Kippford. See Kipford.

Kippilaw, an estate, with a mansion, in Bowden
parish, Roxbui-ghshire, 3 miles SW of Newtown St
Boswells. Its owner, the Eev. John Seton-Karr
(b. 1813 ; sue. 1832), holds 920 acres in the shire,
valued at £925 per annum. — Orel. Sur., sh. 25, 1865.

Kippoch, a village in Arasaig district, Inverness-
shire, 40 miles W by N of Fort William.

Kirkabister, a village in Bressay island, Shetland,
2i miles SSE of Lerwick.

Kirkaig, a stream on the mutual boundary of Assynt
parish, SW Sutherland, and Lochbroom parish, Cromai-ty-
shii'e. Issuing from Loch Fewix (357 feet), the lowest
of a chain of five lakes, it runs 3;^ miles west-north-
westward to salt-water Loch Kirkaig, between Loch Inver
and Enard Bay. About 2^ miles above its mouth it forms
a fall of 50 feet sheer descent, which bars the upward
n;n of salmon ; but below this are 21 fine pools, which
have been known to peld a yellow trout of 15f and a
salmon of 38 lbs. in weight.— (?rfZ. Sur., sh. 101, 1882.

Kirkamuir, an ancient parish of central Stirlingshire,
now incorporated with St Xiuians. Its church, in the
hill district, near the N bank of the Carron, 7| miles W
by N of Denny, is said to have been one of the first places
in which the Lord's Supper was celebrated after the
Reformation, and continues to be represented by its
burying-ground, which is still in use. — Ord. Sur., sh.
31, 1867.

Kirkandrews, a village and an ancient parish on the
coast of Kirkcudbrightshire. The village, at the head
of little Kii'kandrews Baj'^, 7f miles WSW of Kirkcud-
bright, when Symson wrote (1684) was a place of some
note, long the scene of an annual fair, with horse and
foot races, but is now reduced to the condition of a
small picturesque hamlet. The parish was annexed,
in 1618 or earlier, to Borgue ; its church, an edifice of
the 15th or the 16th century, is now a ruin. Within
the graveyard are buried a martyred Covenanter (1685)
and William Nicholson (1783-1843), the Galloway pedlar-
poet. — Ord. Sur., sh. 5, 1857.

Kirkbank, an estate, with a station, a post ofiice
under Kelso, and a mansion, in Eckford parish, Roxburgh-
shire, on the left bank of the Teviot. The station, on
the Jedburgh branch of the North British railway, is
5i miles NNE of Jedburgh ; and Kirkbank House is
5 miles SSW of Kelso. See Spottisv^'oode.

Kirkbean, a village and a coast parish of SE Kirk-
cudbrightshire. The village, one of the prettiest in the
South of Scotland, stands upon Kirkbean Burn, 1 mile
W of the estuary of the Nith, 10 J miles E by S of Dal-
beattie station, and 12 S of Dumfries, under which it
has a post ofiice.

The parish, containing also the villages of Carsethom,
Southerness, and Prestonmill, is bounded N by New-
abbey, E by the estuary of the Nith, S by the Solway
Firth, and W by Colvend. Its utmost length, from N
to S, exclusive of foreshore, is 4§ miles ; its breadth
varies between 1| and 4§ miles ; and its area is 19,792
acres, of which 11,227^ are foreshore, 113 links, and
514;|: water. The great extent of foreshore is due to the
peculiar character of the Solway tides, which, flo-«-ing
with voluminous and prodigious rush, and ebbing with
a general recess of their waters, have here less of the
high breast-work ' bore ' than in the upper reaches of
the firth, yet here have such rapidity and force as occa-
sionally to upset vessels, or to drag a ship's anchor a
considerable distance. The coast, with a length of 9^
miles, makes a sudden bend from a southerly to a
westerly direction at Southerness Point, where a disused
lighthouse forms a conspicuous landmark. On the E

KIRKCALDY

side it is slightly indented by Gillfoot and Carse Bays,
the latter of which, 1 mile NNE of Kirkbean village,
affords safe anchorage to vessels waiting a spring tide°to
take them up tlie Nith, or encountering contrary winds
when coming down. A sea-wall, 1^ mile long, and in
places 12 feet high, was built in 'l866-67 to protect the
farm of South Carse from the tide ; and mostly the
shore is low and sandj% with belts of links, gained
slowly from the sea ; ""but in the neighbourhood of
Arbigland, midway between Carsethorn and Southerness
Point, are precipices of considerable height and some
singular rocks, of which the Thirl Stane forms a natural
Gothic arch. Kirkbean Bum, rising on the NW
border, runs 4 miles east-south-eastward and northward
to Carse Bay. Prestonmill Burn, rising near the W
border, winds 3J miles eastward, till it falls into Kirk-
bean Burn, I mile E of the village ; several smaller
streams rise in the interior and run to the sea ; and
Southwick Water, over the last 2^ miles of its course,
meanders along the Colvend boundary. The surface
has all a north-north-westward ascent towards 'huge
Ckiffel's hoary top,' attaining 1632 feet above sea-
level at Boreland Hill, and 1800 at Douglas's Cairn on
the Newabbey border — heights that command magnifi-
cent views across the Solway Firth, to the mountains of
Cumberland and Westmoreland, to the Isle of Man, and
even in clear weather, to North Wales and Ireland.
The rocks of the hills are primary — granite and syenite,
with veins of porphj-ry and strata of slate ; those of the
plains comprise a very coarse sandstone and an inferior
kind of limestone, and at Southerness show some indica-
tions of coal. The soil over a tract of 1000 acres, called
the Merse, is a light and sandy conquest from the sea,
nearly all of it arable ; in the SE district is a rich and
deep clayey loam ; and elsewhere, except on the hills,
is of various but very productive qualities. Nearly
half of all the parish is in tillage, a fair proportion is
under wood, and the rest is commonage, pastoral, or
waste. Antiquities are ruins of Wreaths Castle, which
belonged to the Regent Morton ; the site of Cavens
Castle ; the market-cross, 7 feet high, of the quondam
village of East Preston ; and remains of the moat and
ditch of what is called M'CuUoch's Castle. Admiral
John Campbell (1719-90), who sailed with the circum-
navigator Anson ; Dr Edward Milligan (1786-1833), the
distinguished lecturer on medical science in Edinburgh ;
and John Paul, afterwards notorious as Paul Jones
(1747-92), were natives. Mansions, noticed separately,
are Arbiglaxd and Cavexs. Kirkbean is in the
presbytery and synod of Dumfries ; the living is worth.
£300. The parish church, built in 1766, has a
handsome tower, added in 1840, and is amply com-
modious. There is also a Free church ; and two public
schools, Kirkbean and Preston, with respective accom-
modation for 120 and 62 children, had (1881) an
average attendance of 93 and 38, and grants of £83, 5s.
and £32, 2s. Valuation (1860) £6864, (1883) £9489,
7s. lOd. Pop. (1801) 696, (1831) 802, (1861) 942,
(1S71) 825, (1881) 794.— C»?T?. Sur., shs. 6, 5, 1863-57.

Kirk-Borthwick. See Bokthwickep.ae.

Kirkbost. See Kiekieost.

Kirkbride, Kirkcudbrightshire. See Kilbpjde.

Kirkbuddo. See Gutheie.

Kirkcaldy (anc. Kyrc-aldyn), a seaport, a royal and
parliamentary burgh, the seat of a presbytery, a market
and manufacturing town, stands on the SE coast of
Fifeshire, 10 miles N of Edinburgh in a direct line, but
15 by rail, IS SSW of Cupar, 6 NE of Burntisland, and
33 SSW of Dundee. The North British railway main
line from Edinburgh to Dundee, etc., by Burntisland
approaches Kirkcaldy on the N side of the town, whose
station is about ten minutes' walk from the centre of
the High Street. A branch line of railway has been
made to the harbour, and is useful for the coal export
trade and the shipping in general. As a royal burgh,
extended under an Act of 1876, it embraces, besides
Kirkcaldy, Linktown in the parish of Abbotshall,
luvertiel in that of Kinghorn, Pathhead, Sinclair-
town, and Gallatown in that of Dysart : while as

'413

KIRKCALDY

a town it is extended by the three last mentioned,
and thus well desei-ves its name of ' the lang toon o'
Kirkcaldy.' The town consists of one main street,
'which stretches like a skeleton backbone that has
been twisted with spinal curvature, while a few abrupt
side streets and closes lead down to the shore or
away back to the suburban villas which adorn the
upper and country part of the town.' This long
street, called the High Street, and at its full extent
almost 4 miles in length, is the oldest part of the town,
and is built mainly on the flat gi'ound along the shore.
Before 1811 the appearance of Kirkcaldy was far from
prepossessing, and strangers were wont to declare it dirty,
ding}^ and uninviting. In that year, however, as well
as in lSt)0-6'2, considerable improvements were effected
by widening and paving its streets.

Kirkcaldy has a town-hall, built in 1832, in the
Roman style of architecture, at a cost of £5000 ; a corn
exchange, built in 1859-60 at a cost of £2600 ; and
public rooms for assemblies and amusements. A new
town-hall is being built in 1SS3 at Pathhead by sub-
scription, and is nearly finished. The town has two
good libraries, the chief of which, the subscription
library, has nearly 9000 volumes, and is furnished with
a reading-room. Other institutions are a chamber of
commerce, a public reading-room, an agricultural society,
a horticultural society, a scientific association, cricket,
football, curling, billiard, skating, lawn tennis, and
bowling clubs, 4 masonic lodges, 3 good templar lodges,
a total abstinence society, an institute for the relief
of destitute sailors, their widows, and children, a local
association of the Educational Institute of Scotland, a
Sabbath school union, a branch of the Scottish Coast
Mission, etc., etc.

There are in Kirkcaldy 25 places of worship, divided
among 12 denominations ; and all of them are compara-
tively modern. The parish church, built in 1807, is a
large handsome building in the Gothic style. Its erec-
tion cost £3000, and it contains 1635 sittings. The
tower of the church is extremely old, though the rest
of the building is not. Some have referred it to as
early a date as 1130, and indeed it forms the chief, and
nearly the only, relic of antiquity in Kirkcaldy. St
James's parish church was erected in 1842, cost £2000,
and has 750 sittings. Abbotshall, luvertiel, Linktown,
Pathhead, and Sinclairtown have either parish or quoctd
sacra parish churches. The chief Free church of Kirk-
caldy is called St Brycedale. Its memorial-stone was
laid on 15 June 1878, and it was opened for worship in
August 18S1. Exclusive of the site, given by Provost
Swan, it cost £16,000 ; has accommodation for 1036
persons ; and has attached to it a Sabbath school seated
for 300, and a young men's hall for 150, persons. St
Brycedale is in the Early Euglisli style, and has
a fine spire 210 feet high, a stained-glass window to the
memory of Douglas the missionary, a rose window, and
a peal of 11 bells. Free churclies, besides St Brycedale,
are those of Abbotshall, Dunnikier, Gallatown, Inver-
tiel, and Pathhead. Kirkcaldy U.P. churcli was Ixiilt
in 1822, and contains 1120 sittings. Sinclairtown U.P.
church is a fine modern place of worship, built in the
Gothic style at a cost of £5000, seated for 800 people,
and remarkable on account of its commanding site and
lofty spire, which is fully 115 feet high. Its memorial-
stone was laid on 12 Sept. 1881. The Union U.P.
church is seated for 560 persons. The Baptist chapel
was erected in 1822, and has 250 sittings. St Peter's
Episcopal church is seated for 240 people, and was built
in 1848. St Mary's Roman Catholic chapel, with 250
sittings, dates from 1869. The Independents, Original
Seceders, members of tlie Evangelical Union, Baptists,
Voluntaries, and 'Christians' have each their special
place of worship. From a religious census lately taken,
It would appear that with 25 churches, which together
have 15,670 sittings, the average attendance is about
7000, or 25 per cent, of the population.

Kirkcaldy liurgh School, as an institution, dates as
far back as 1582, thougli tlic present school buildings
ate not older than 1843, when they were erected at a
414

KIRKCALDY

cost of £1G00. Once under the direction of the town
council, from whom it received an annual grant of £100,
it passed in 1872 to the burgh school board, and is now
divided into a lower and upper school. The former,
taught by 3 masters, a mistress, and 6 pupil teachers,
has an average attendance of 246 ; while the latter,
conducted by the rector and 2 masters, has an average
attendance of 60. The grant earned by the Burgh
School in 1882 was £194, 12s. Of the two schools
erected by the school board of the parliamentary burgh
of Kirkcaldy at a cost of £10,000, and with estimated
accommodation for 11,000 pupils, the East School has
an attendance of 633 children, and earned £537, 7s. of
grant ; while the West School, with 763 children,
earned £600, 14s. 6d. of grant. The half-time school,
with 214 children, earned £95, 5s. 9d. of grant. By
the will of the late Robert Philip of Eadenhead, £70, COO
was left to erect schools in which poor children of
either sex might be educated. Three of these schools,
able to hold 600 children, have been built. John
Tliomson, another native of Kirkcaldy, left a sum of
money to be spent on the education of poor children.
In addition to the above, there are in the town several
good private schools. The burgh school board consists
of a chairman and 8 members.

Besides the old church-tower, Kirkcaldy has almost
no antiquities. At different times, however, especially
when the improvement scheme was being carried out,
sculptured arms, inscriptions, stone coffins, and human
remains were dug up.

Kirkcaldy has a head post office, with money order,
savings' bank, insurance, and telegraph departments,
3 hotels, branches of the Bank of Scotland, British
Linen, Commercial, National, Union, and National
Security Savings' Banks, numerous agencies for fire,
life, accident, and insurance companies, an annual art
exhibition, and 3 Liberal newspapers — the Saturday Fife
Free Press (1871), the Saturday Fifcshire Advertiser
(1838), and the Wednesday Kirlccakhj Times (1878).
Denmark and the United States of America have each
a consul at Kirkcaldy.

The chief industry of Kirkcaldy is the manufacture of
linen cloth. The town is said to have had weavers
working in it as early as 1672 ; but it is not until 1792,
when flax-spinning by machinery was introduced, that
Kirkcaldy made itself felt in this branch of manufacture.
In 1733, 177,740 yards of linen were stamped here, a
quantity doubled in the course of three years. In 1743,
316,550 yards, valued at £11,000, were woven in Kirk-
caldy and the surrounding district, while the quantity
woven in 1755 was worth £22,000. Forty years later
the Kirkcaldy merchants had 810 looms at work for
them, a number which grew in time to 2000 looms,
which wove in 1783 linen cloth M-orth £110,000. In
1807, when steam-power was introduced, about 1,641,430
yards were woven ; and eleven years after 2,022,493
yards were stamped at Kirkcaldy. Since 1860 great
advance has been made. In 1867 there were in the
town 18 factories, with 1612 looms and 28,670 spindles,
and employing 3887 hands ; and in 1883, 14 power-
loom factories (exclusive of one or two finishing works),
with 2300 looms, and employing 2500 ' hands. ' The
linen woven is worth annually nearly £410,000. That
exported to the United States from Kirkcaldy and dis-
trict in 1882 was valued at £75,968. The articles
chiefly made are sheetings, towellings, ticks, dowlas,
while damasks are made to a slight extent. At the
present time (1883) the flax-spinning industry of Kirk-
caldy is far from being in a brisk condition. Several
of the works are shut down, and hence the annual pro-
duce is much diminislied. Five factories, with 15,500
spindles and employing 1150 men, turn out annually
2,250,000 spindles of yarn, worth £200,000. Net-
making is carried on in one factory, which has 70 net
machines, attended to by 90 'hands.' Yarn-bleaching
has 6 bleachfields devoted to it, of which 3 in the town
employ 160 men, and 3 at some distance from it
employ about 190 men. One of the last has 120 men
upon it.

KIRKCALDY

KIRKCALDY

The kindred industries, however, of which Kirkcaldy
is especially the home, are the manufacture of floor-
cloth and linoleum, of which the former was first made
in 1847 and the latter in 1876. In 1847 the late Mr
Michael Nairn built a factory at Pathhead, known at
the outset as ' Nairn's Folly ' for making floor-cloth
' according to the most approved methods then prac-
tised.' The original factory has been so much ex-
tended and added to that it is now the largest work of
the kind in the world, while the firm of Nairn & Co.
still keep the lead in bringing this manufacture to per-
fection. In 1883 floor-cloth and linoleum are made in
seven factories, which employ fully 1300 hands. The
value of the floor-cloth and linoleum annually produced
amounts to not less than £400,000. They are largely
exported to Australia and the United States, to the last
of which was sent in 1882 a quantity worth £27,152.

The iron-works of Kirkcaldy employ nearly 1100
men. Three engineering firms have in their works
fully 250 men each, employed in making the machinery
for marine engines, boilers, sugar and rice mills for the
East and AVest Indian trade. The pottery works of
Kirkcaldy require the labour of some 500 men, who
make earthenware of difi"erent qualities, from coarse
brown up to fine white. A market is found for the
articles made chiefly in Scotland and Ireland, but they
are also exported to the Continent and the Colonies.
Dyeing is carried on at Kirkcaldy on a considerable
scale, being a necessary adjunct of the linen trade. At
one time it was usual for even the small weavers to dye
their own goods, but latterly the trade has been gathered
into the hands of a few who are dyers solely. Kirkcaldy
has also breweries, brass foundries, corn and meal mills,
which, along with the many fine shops in the town, are
dependent for their prosperity partly on it and partly
on the well-peopled surrounding country, whose popula-
tion is considerable owing to the numerous collieries
in the immediate vicinity. A corn market is held in
the town every Saturday, and fairs on the third Friday
of April and October. Kirkcaldy was made a royal
1644, and is jiresided over
by a provost and 27 coun-
cillors. Burgh courts for
civil and criminal cases and
justice of the peace courts
are held at stated periods,
and sheriff courts on the first
Monday of February, April,
June, August, October, and
December. The corporation
revenue amounted to £1107
in 1882. Kirkcaldy unites
with Burntisland, Dysart,
and Kinghoru — the Kirk-
caldy burghs — in returning
a member to parliament,
(always a Liberal since 1837). The municipal and the
parliamentary constituency numbered 4097 and 1976 in
1883, when the value of real property within the muni-
cipal and the parliamentary burgh amounted to £90,200
and £52,585, against £80,397 and £49,572 in 1880.
Pop. of the parliamentary burgh (1841) 5704, (1851)
10,475, (1861) 10,841, (1871) 12,422, (1881) 13,320;
of royal and police burgh* (1881) 23,288; of entire
town (1871) 18,874, (1881) 23,315, of whom 12,587
were females. Houses (1881) 5146 inhabited, 275
vacant, 35 building.

If we accept the legendary origin of Kirkcaldy, we
must allow that the town was founded as early as the 6th
century, when it is said to have been one of the 300
churches planted by St Columba. As was his wont,
the first endeavour of the northern apostle would be to
have a chapel erected. Beside it, a religious house
would naturally spring, and then laymen would cluster
around them, both for the protection and the spiritual
advantages they were able to afford. This may have
been the beginning of Kirkcaldy, but it is only con-
jecture, and it is not until 1334 that we get on the
* The royal burgh was extended in 1870.

burgh by Charles I.

Seal of Kirkcaldy.

solid gTound of history. In that year it was mortified
by David II. to the monastery of Dunfermline, and
became a burgh of regality, holding of the abbot and
monastery. In 1450 it became a royal burgh, and the
monastery conveyed to the bailies and town council the
burgh, burgh acres, petty customs, harbour, municipal
rights, etc. Nothing is known for certain of the state
of the town at this time, but, as it was probably the
port of the monks, it would reap advantage from the
foreign trade of the period, in which churchmen often
largely shared. Before the Union all the burghs on
the Fife coast maintained a brisk export trade with
England and the Continent in such articles as coals,
salt, salted fish ; and Kirkcaldy's considerable share in
this is shown by its possessing in 1644 a fleet of 100
ships. In 1644 its original charter was ratified by
Charles I. as a return for services it had rendered, and
the town was erected anew into a free royal burgh and
free port. In the years that followed 1644, its pro-
sperity received severe checks. Not i'ewer than 94
vessels, of the aggregate value of £53,791, were lost in
the course of a few years, either destroyed at sea or
captured by the enemy. This loss was aggravated by
another sustained at Dundee, when £5000 worth of
goods, stored there for safety, fell into the hands of
General Monk, and by a third which arose from some
of its wealthier citizens finding it impossible to recover
certain sums of money lent to the Committee of Estates.
Kirkcaldy sufi"ered in the loss of its men as well as of
its money, 480 of its citizens having been slain in
battle, of whom 200 are said to have been killed at
Kilsyth alone.

These losses went far to cripple the town. The sus-
peusion of the trade with Holland after the Restoration
seemed all that was wanted to finish the commercial
ruin of Kirkcaldy. As a consequence, we are not sur-
prised to find it praying the Convention of Burghs, in
1682, to consider its poverty, and ease it of its public
burdens. During the civil wars, however, the burgh
had acted in a way that had displeased the court, and
therefore, not only was its petition disregarded, but its
annual assessment was increased by the addition of
2000 nierks. In 1687 a new application met with a
better fate. In the following year a committee of
investigation was appointed, and reported that, owing
to the death of many substantial merchants and
shippers, the decay of trade and the loss of ships,
the royal customs were diminished by half, and ' that
all the taxations imposed on the town could do no
more than pay the eight months' cess payable to the
king.' Before the result of this inquiry was declared,
the Revolution intervened and changed the whole
aspect of aff"airs. The men of Kirkcaldy had always been
on the side of civil and religious liberty, and they now
reaped the fruit of their steady adherence to the con-
stitutional rights of the subject. The Earl of Perth, who
was acting as governor, had espoused the Stewart cause
too warmly to feel safe in Scotland after the success of
the Revolution. He attempted, therefore, to escape, and
got as far as almost to the mouth of the Firth of Forth,
but he was pursued and captured by a Kirkcaldy vessel,
brought back to the town, and kept a prisoner until
handed over to the Earl of Mar. For this and other
services, £1000 Scots were taken off the yeardy assess-
ment. The Revolution brought a revival of trade,
which was checked at the Union by the taxes, customs,
and restrictions imposed upon cominerce by the English.
From this and other reasons, the shipping of Kirkcaldy
fell so low that in 1760 it employed only one coaster of
50 tons and two ferry-boats of 30 tons each.

On the return of peace in 1768, the shipping trade
revived, so that in 1772 there belonged to the port 11
vessels, carrying 515 tons, and manned by 49 sailors.
Twenty years later, its shipping consisted of 26 square-
rigged vessels, 2 sloops, and 2 ferry boats, carrying 3700
tons, and manned by 225 sailors. Its chief intei'course
was with Holland and the Baltic ports, but it traded
also with the West Indies, America, and the Mediter-
ranean. Since 1792 the number of its ships has varied

415

KIRKCALDY

KIRKCHRIST

at times in a notable, if rather inexplicable, manner, as
the following table shows : —

Date.

No. of Vessels. |

Tonnage.

1831, .

95

10,610

1861, .

76*

7,458

1S68, .

35

3,CS9

1871, .

29

3,496

1875, .

27

3,309

1880, .

21

2,290

18S3, .

IS

1,565

Kirkcaldy has a fishing fleet of 18 boats, -with 27
fisher men and boys. As a port, it extends from Fife
Ness on the E to Downey Point on the W, and
comprises the creeks of Crail, Cellardyke, Anstruther,
Pittenweem, Elie, Largo, Leven, Methil, Buckhaven,
Wemyss, Dysart, Kinghoru, Burntisland, Aberdour.
Kirkcaldy harbour, situated near the E end of the royal
burgh, was tidal until some years after 1843, when it
was considerably improved. Not less than £40,000
were spent in constructing an outer liarbour of 1| acres,
an inner harbour of 3 acres, a dock of 2J acres, and
extensive wharfage. In 1875 further improvements
were proposed. There is considerable likelihood that
before long a tramway will run through the High Street
of Kirkcaldy, and that a new Fife railway line will have
Kirkcaldy for one of its stations.

Earliest of the celebrated natives of Kirkcaldy was
Sir Michael Scott, who lived in the 13th century, and
on account of his researches in natui-al science — wide
for his day — was held a wizard by the ignorant. Henry
Balnaves (died 1579) held different political appoint-
ments, having been Lord of Session, Secretary of State,
Depute-Keeper of the Privy Seal. George Gillespie
(1613-48), his brother, Patrick (b. 1617), principal of the
University of Glasgow, and John Dr3-sdale (1718-88) were
well known as learned divines, who took an active part
in the affairs of the Church. Kobert Adam (1728-92)
was a famous architect of his day, having been the
designer of the University and Register House of Edin-
burgh and the Infirmary, Glasgow. He sat as member
of parliament for Kinross in 1768, and on his death
was buried in Westminster Abbey. Adam Smith (1723-
90) was educated at Kirkcaldy Grammar School, Glas-
gow University, and Baliol College, Oxford. He was
appointed Professor of Logic in Glasgow University in
1751, and of Moral Philosophy in 1752, from the last of
which chairs he retired in 1764 in order to accompany
the young Duke of Buccleuch on a continental tour. In
1766 he settled down quietly in his birthplace to write
his great work, An Inquiry into the Nature and Causes of
the Wealth of Nations (1776). Among other of his works
may be mentioned as next important to The Wealth of
Nations, his Theory of the Moral Sentiments (1759).

Three men deserve mention as inhabitants of Kirk-
caldy at one time or another, one of them because of
his peculiar pulpit gifts, and the otlier two on account
of the high eminence they afterwards attained to. The
first of these was Mr Shirra, minister of the Burgher
Chm'ch of Kirkcaldy in 1750. His peculiar style of
preaching, his intense earnestness, and the broad vein
of humour that ran through his miiustrations in the
pulpit and out of it, are proverbial. Thomas Carlyle
and Edward Irving may be mentioned together because
of the close connection between them that arose from
their residing in Kirkcaldy at the same time. When
Carlyle went to the ' lang toon' in 1816 as teacher of
mathematics, etc. in its burgh school, he was welcomed
by Irving in the most cordial fashion, and given 'will
and waygate ' over all the latter's possessions. Carlyle
in a certain way supplanted Irving, but that was not
able to abate even to the slightest degree the friendship
that existed between them. ' But for Irving,' wrote
Carlyle, ' I had never known what the communion of
man with man means.' And this communion was
drawn closer by tlieir frequent intercourse with one
another in the woods of Eaith or on the beach of Kirk-
caldy— 'a mile of the smoothest sand' — upon which

416

74 sailing vessels and 2 steamers.

they were wont to walk in the moonlight, or in Irving's
'Utterly library' amid French and Latin classics.
Doubtless it was mainly owing to Irving that Carlyle
was able to say in after years, ' I always rather liked
Kirkcaldy to this day. ' Carlyle spent three years there,
and Irving spent seven years. After the latter had
become a famous preacher, he revisited it in 1828 and
preached in the parish church, his audience being so
large that the gallery fell and killed 28 people.

'The parish of Kirkcaldy is now of comparatively small
extent, but till 1650 it comprised the present parish of
Abbotshall. Bounded N by Kiuglassie and Dysart, E
by Dysart and the Firtli of Forth, and S and W by
Abbotshall, it has an utmost length from N to S of 2§
miles, a varying breadth of 6| and S| furlongs, and an
area of 1248^ acres, of which 71^ are foreshore. The
coast-line, 7^ furlongs in extent, is level and sandy ; ad-
jacent to the beach is a belt of flat land ; and the sur-
face thence inland first makes a somewhat abrupt ascent,
and then continues to rise in easy gradient, till near Dun-
nikier House it attains an elevation of 316 feet above
sea-level. The rocks belonged to the Carboniferous
Limestone series, but include some intersecting trap-
dykes. Coal occurs in seams from 9 inches to 32 feet
thick, and at Dunnikier has been worked to a consider-
able depth. Iron ore, in globular masses, lies dispersed
through much of the coal-field ; and was formerly
worked for the Carron Company. The soil, in the low
tracts light, on the southern part of the higher grounds
a dry rich loam, on the grounds further JSI' is clayey,
cold, and wet. About 180 acres are under wood ; and
all the rest of the land, except Avhat is occupied by
houses and roads, is in tillage. Dunnikier House,
noticed separately, is the only mansion, and its pro-
prietor is much the largest in the parish, 3 others holding
each an annual value of £500 and upwards, 40 of between
£100 and £500, 75 of from £50 to £100, and 165 of from
£20 to £50. The seat of a presbytery in the synod of
Fife, this parish is divided ecclesiastically into Kirkcaldy
proper and St James's quoad sacra parish, the former a
living worth £413. Landward valuation (1883) £7273,
lis. 2d. Pop. of entire parish (1801) 3248, (1821) 4452,
(1841) 5275, (1861) 6100, (1871) 7003, (1881) 8528, of
whom 5739 were in the ecclesiastical parish of Kirkcaldy,
and 2789 in that of St James.— Orrf. Sur., sh. 40, 1867.

The presbytery of Kirkcaldy comprehends the quoad
civilia parishes of Abbotshall, Auchterderran, Aucher-
tool, Burntisland, Dysart, Kennoway, Kinghorn, King-
lassie, Kirkcaldy, Leslie, Markinch, Scoouie, and
Wemys.s, and the quoad sac?T« parishjes of Invertiel, Kirk-
caldy-St James, Lochgelly, Alethil, ililton of Balgonie,
Pathhead, Thornton, and West Wemyss, with the chapel-
ries of Linktown and Sinclairtown. Pop. (1871) 56,868,
(1881) 64,775, of whom 11,582 were communicants of the
Church of Scotland in 1878.— The Free Church has a
presbytery of Kirkcaldy, with churches of Buckhaven,
Burntisland, Dysart, Kennoway, Kinghorn, Kinglassie,
Invertiel, Abbotshall, Gallatown, Pathhead, Dunnikier,
St Brycedale, Leslie, Leven, Lochgelly, Markinch, and
Wemyss, which 18 churches together had 4814 com-
municants in 1883. — The United Presbyterian Church
has a presbytery of Kirkcaldy, wth tlirce churches
in Kirkcaldy, 2 in Leslie, and 13 in respectively An-
struther, Buckhaven, Burntisland, Colinsburgh, Crail,
Dysart, Innerleven, Kennoway, Kinghorn, Largo, Leven,
JMarkinch, and Pittenweem, which 18 churches together
had 4865 members in 1882.

Kirkchrist, an ancient parish in the S of Kirkcud-
brightshire, now forming the southern district of Twyn-
holm parish. It remained a separate parish till at least
1605, probably till 1C54 ; but was certainly annexed to
Twynholm long before 1684. Its church and church-
yard were situated on the right bank of the river Dee,
opposite the town of Kirkcudbright ; and the church is
still represented by some ruins, while the churchyard
continues to be in use. A nunnery anciently stood
somewhere on the southern border, and is lonnueinorated
in tlie names of two farms and a mill — High Nuuton,
Low Nunton, and Nunmill. — Ord. Sur., sh. 5, 1857.

KIRKCHRIST

Kirkchrist, Aberdeensliire. See Christ's Kirk.
Kirkclauch, a modern mansion near the coast of
Anwoth parish, Kirkcudbrightshire, 6 miles SW of
Gatehouse-of-Fleet. It is the seat of Alex. M'CuUoch,
Esq. of Glen, -who holds 4348 acres in the shire, valued
at £1317 per annnm.—Ord. Sur., sh. 4, 1857.

Kirkcolm, a village and a parish in the N of the
Rhinns district of Wigtownshire. The village stands near
the W shore of Loch Ryan, 6 miles NNW of Stranraer,
iruder which it has a post and telegraph office. It is
sometimes called Stewarton, after a Galloway family who
at one time were chief proprietors in the parish ; and it
takes the name of Kirkcolm from the dedication of its
ancient church to St Columba. Pop. (1861) 355, (1871)
387, (1881) 332.

The parish is bounded W and N by the Irish Sea, E
by Loch Ryan, and S by Leswalt. Its utmost length,
from N to S, is 6| miles ; its utmost breadth, from E to
W, is 4| miles ; and its area is 14,165f acres, of which
759 are foreshore and 88i water. The coast, along the
"WNW and N, with an aggregate length of 8 miles, is
all a breastwork of bold and ridgy rocks, partly torn
with fissures, and slightly diversified with baylets and
small headlands. Rising in places to over 100 feet above
sea-level, it includes at its NW extremity, Coesewall
Point, surmounted by a lighthouse ; whilst, at the en-
trance to Loch Ryan, it terminates in the round head-
land of Milleur or Kii'kcolm Point, being here and at
Clachan-Heughs pierced deeply with caves. The coast
along Loch Ryan, 5J miles in extent, over the first 3
resembles the western and northern ; then, opposite
Kii-kcolm village, projects south-eastward into Loch
Ryan a shelving bank of sand called the Scar, IJ mile
long, and not quite covered by the sea at the
highest spring tides. Beyond this is a fine natmal
basin, the Wig, flanked by the Scar on the loch-
ward side, and large enough to shelter a number of
small vessels ; and thence to the Leswalt boundary the
shore is all low and sandy. The interior offers a gently
undulating aspect, with numerous rising grounds or
small hills of such easy ascent as to admit of ploughing
to the summit. The highest, Tor of Craigoch (409 feet),
rises right on the southern boundary ; and from it the
surface declines in gentle gradients to the western and
eastern shores. Its streams are all mere rivulets ; and
its principal sheet of water is shallow Loch Connell,
lying f mile WSW of Kirkcolm village, and measuring
3;^ furlongs either way. The predominant rocks are
Silurian. The soil, on a narrow belt round the shore, is
thin, and either sandy or gravelly ; here and there is
mossy and moorish ; but mostly is either a fertile loam,
a deep clay, or a mixture of the two. About one-
eleventh of the entire area is waste ; plantations cover
some 100 acres ; and nearly all the rest is either regu-
larly or occasionally in tillage. The chief antiquities
are noticed under Corsewall and Kilmorie, or the
Virgin Mary's chapel ; and a curious cist was discovered
on Ervie farm towards the close of 1875. Corsewall is
the only mansion ; and 4 proprietors hold each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 2 of between £100 and
£500, 1 of from £50 to £100, and 4 of from £20 to £50.
Giving off a portion to Leswalt ecclesiastical parish,
Kirkcolm is in the presbytery of Stranraer and synod of
Galloway ; the living is worth £405 (20 chalders, Avith
unexhausted teinds). The parish church was built in
1824, and contains 650 sittings. There is also a Free
church ; and Douloch public, Kirkcolm public, and the
Village schools, with respective accommodation for 90,
140, and 50 children, had (1881) an average attendance
of 57, 106, and 46, and grants of £39, 10s., £98, and
£33, 9s. Valuation (1860) £9508, (1883) £13,329, Is. lid.
Pop. (1801) 1191, (1841) 1973, (1861) 1860, (1871)
1948, (1881) 1847, of whom 1657 were in the ecclesi-
astical parish.— C'/tZ. Sur., shs. 3, 7, 1856-63.

Kirkconnel, a village and a parish of Nithsdale, NW
Dumfriesshire. The village, st;inding on the Nith's
left bank, 530 feet above sea-level, has a station on the
Glasgow and South-Western railway, 3^ miles WNW of
Sanquhar and 29^ NNW of Dumfries. Successor to the

KIRKCONNEL

village or church hamlet of Old Kirkconnel, 2 milesNNW,
it is a pleasant little place, with an inn and a iiost office
under Sanquhar. Pop. (1861) 413, (1871) 432, (1881) 464.
The parish, containing also part of Crawick Mill
village, is bounded N by Crawfordjohn in Lanarkshire,
E and SE by Sanquhar, and W and NW by New Cum-
nock in Ayrshire. Its utmost length, from E to W, is
8 miles ; its utmost breadth, from N to S, is 6^ miles ;
and its area is 26,808 acres, of which 148| are water.
The NiTii, entering from New Cumnock, flows 5§ miles
east-south-eastward through the interior, then 2 miles
along the Sanquhar boundary ; and here it is joined by
Glenquharry Burn (running 4| miles southward), by
Kf.llo Water (running 5| miles east-north-eastward
along the Sanquhar boundary), by Crawick Water
(running 8 miles south-south-westward along the San-
quhar boundary), and by sixteen lesser tributaries ;
whilst Spango AVater, one of the Crawick's head-streams,
flows 71 miles eastward through the northern interior.
Two mineral springs on the farm of Rigg, 1^ mile AV by
S of the village, resemble but excel the waters of Merk-
land Well in Lochrutton parish and Hartfell Spa near
Moffat, yet have never acquired much celebrity. In
the extreme SE, at the Crawick's influx to the Nith,
the surface declines to 440 feet above sea-level, and chief
elevations to the right or S of the Nith are AVhite HiU
(1331 feet), *Dun Rig (1648), and *M'Crierick's Cairn
(1824) ; to the left or N, Black Hill (1589), Todholes
Hill (1574), Cocker Hill (1653), *Mount Stuart (1567),
Kirkland Hill (1670), and *Nivistop Hill (1507), where
asterisks mark those summits that culminate on the
confines of the parish. These hills, forming part of the
broad range that runs across the South of Scotland from
the Berwickshire to the Ayrshire coast, are so grouped
and distributed as both to ofler much diversity of con-
tour and to enclose a number of ravines and hollows, yet
they are mostly so moorish, mossy, or thinly clothed
with herbage, as to exhibit a general aspect of bleakness
and desolation. The banks and immediate flanks of
the Nith alone contain nearly all the arable lauds and
the seats of population ; and these, inclusive of gentle
slopes on either side from the hills, have a mean breadth
of I5 mile. The rocks are partly carboniferous, but
chiefly Silurian. Coal abounds, but has never been
largely worked ; limestone and ironstone occur ; and
lead is supposed to exist in several hills towards Crawick
AVater. The soil of the arable lands along the Nith is
variously deep rich alluvium, a light gravelly mould,
loam, clay, and a mixture of clay and moss. Rather
less than one-fourth of the entire area is in tillage ; 186
acres are under wood ; and the rest of the land is either
pastoral or w^aste. Cairns and a reach of the Deil's
Dyke, running S of the Nith, are the only antiquities ;
but St Counel, to whom the original church was dedi-
cated, is said to be buried on Halfmerk Hill, 3 mUes
NNAV of the village, where a memorial cross of the lona
pattern was lately erected by the Duke of Buccleuch.
Natives have been James Hislop (1798-1827), author of
The Cameronians Dream, and the ' surfaceman ' poet,
Alexander Anderson (b. 1845) ; whilst George Jardine
(1742-1827), professor of logic in Glasgow University,
was parish schoolmaster in 1759. The Duke of
Buccleuch is much the largest proprietor, one other
holding an annual value of more, and one of less, than
£100. Kirkconnel is in the presbytery of Penpont
and synod of Dumfries ; the living is worth £369. The
parish church, at the village, was built in 1729, and, as
enlarged about 1806, contains 300 sittings. Two public
schools. Cairn and Kirkconnel, with respective accom-
modation for 44 and 150 children, had (1881) an
averaf^e attendance of 23 and 136, and grants of
£18 >s. 6d. and £123, 9s. Valuation (1860) £7808,
(1883) £10,246, 5s. 6d. Pop. (ISOl) 1096, (1841)
1130, (1861) 996, (1871) 952, (1881) 1019.— Ort^. Sur.,
sh. 15, 1864.

Kirkconnel, an ancient parish in Annandale, Dum-
friesshire, annexed, after the Reformation, to Kirkpat-
rick-Fleming. Its graveyard, on a meadow within a
fold of Kirtle AVater, 24 miles NNE of Kirtlebridge

417

EIBECONNELL HALL

station, contains the aslies of 'Fair Helen of Kirk-
connel Lee,' and those of her lover, Adam Fleming,
in saving whose life she lost her o^\^l, from the bullet
of her less favoured suitor, a Bell of Blacket House.
Whether her own name was Bell or Irving is hard to
determine, but tradition seems to refer the tragedy to
some time in the 16th century ; and it forms the theme
of that sweetest of Scottish ballads —

• I wish I were where Helen lies,
Night and day on nie she cries ;
Oh that I were where Helen lies
On fair Kirkconnel Leo ! '

Bell's Tower, the home of Fair Helen, was demolished
in 17M.— Orel. Sur., sh. 10, 1864.

Kirkconnell Hall, a mansion, in Hoddam parish,
Dumfriesshire, 5 furlongs N of Ecclefechan.

Kirkconnell House, an old mansion, surrounded with
fine trees, in Troqueer parish, E Kirkcudbrightshire, on
the right bank of the river Nith, 2 miles NE of New-
abbey, and 7 S by E of Dumfries. Attached to it is a
neat Roman Catholic chapel (1823). Its owner, through
marriage, Robert Maxwell Witham, Esq. (b. 1819),
holds 2974 acres in the shire, valued at £2739 per
annum. — Ord. Sur., sh. 6, 1863.

Kirkconnell Moor. See Tongueland.

Kirkcormack, an ancient parish in Kirkcudbright-
shire, now incorporated with Kelton, and probably
named after St Cormac, superior of the Irish monastery
of Durrow about the middle of the 6th century. Its
small church, on the left bank of the river Dee, 4 J miles
SW of Castle-Douglas, is represented by ruins ; and the
churchyard, containing a tombstone of 1534, is still
partly in use. Close to it was St Ringan's "Well. — Ord.
Sur., sh. 5, 1857.

Kirkcowan, a village and a parish of N Wigtownshire.
The village stands on the left bank of Tarf Water, 7^
miles NW of Wigtown, and 3 furlongs E by S of Kirk-
cowan station on the Dumfries and f ortpatrick branch
of the Caledonian railway, this being 6| miles WSW
of Newton-Stewart. Serving in a small way as a
centre of coimtry trade, it finds employment in two
neighbouring woollen mills, and has a post office, with
money order, savings' bank, and railway telegraph
departments, 3 hotels, and a bowling-green. Pop.
(1861) 734, (1871) 693, (1881) 671.

The parish is bounded N by Colmonell in Ayrshire,
Eby Penninghame and Wigtown, SE by Kirkinner, SW
by Mochrum, and W by Old Luce and New Luce. Its
utmost length, from NNW to SSE, is 14 J miles ; its
breadth varies between 9 furlongs and 6^ miles ; and
its land area is 35,865 acres. The Bladexoch, issuing
from Loch Maberry (1 J mile x 3 furl. ; 405 feet), at the
meeting-point with Colmonell and rcnninghame, winds
16f miles south-south-eastward along all the eastern
boundary ; and Tare Water, from just below its source,
runs 16^ miles south-south-eastward along most of the
western boundary, and then strikes 4 miles east-south-
eastward through the interior, till it falls into the
Bladenoch at a point 1| mile ESE of Kirkcowan village.
Several considerable burns rise in the interior, and run
to either the Bladenoch or Tarf Water. Lakes, other
than Loch Maberry, are Loch Clugston (3 x \\ furl.), in
the SE ; Black Loch (2x1 furl.). Loch Heron (3 x IJ
furl.), and Loch Ronald (5 x 2£ furl.), in the W ; and
seven or eight smaller ones, dotted over the centre and
the N. At the confluence of Tarf Water with the
Bladenoch the surface declines to 95 feet above sea-
level, thence rising south-westward to 306 feet at Min-
dork Fell, and north-north-westward to 579 at Barskeoch
Fell, 702 at Culvennan Fell, 742 at Eldrig Fell, 604 at
Urrall Fell, and 1000 at Craigairie Fell. Most of the
land is either moor, moss, or bleak pasture ; and much
of it expands into broad hill plateau. Granite and grey-
wacke are predominant rocks, and lioth have been largely
worked. The soil is generally thin and poor. Little
more than one-fifth of the entire area is cither regularly
or occasionally in tillage ; wood covers 315 acres ; and
all the rest of the ])arish is cither jiastoral or waste.
Antiquities are the site of Mindork Castle and traces of
418

KIRKCUDBRIGHT

the old military road. Craighl.a.w House, noticed
separately, is the principal residence ; and 3 proprietors
hold each an annual value of £500 and upwards, 4
of between £100 and £500, 2 of from £59 to £100,
and 5 of from £20 to £50. Kirkcowan is in the
presbytery of Wigtown and synod of Galloway ; the
living is worth £337. The parish church, at the village,
is a handsome edifice of 1834, containing 400 sittings.
There is also a U.P. church ; and two public schools,
Darnow and Kirkcowan, vdVa. respective accommodation
for 35 and 155 children, had (1881) an average attend-
ance of 15 and 142, and grants of £25, Is. and £127,
lis. Valuation (1860) £7079, (1883) £10,349, 4s. 9d.
Pop. (1801) 787, (1831) 1374, (1861) 1434, (1871) 1352,
(1881) 1307.— Ord Sur., shs. 4, 8, 1857-63.

Kirkcudbright, a town and a parish of S Kirkcud-
brightshire. The capital of the county, and a royal
and parliamentary burgh, the town stands on the left
bank of the river Dee, here broadening into Kirkcud-
bright Bay, but 6 miles above its influx to the open sea.
By road it is 33 miles ESE of Newton-Stewart and 98
SSW of Edinburgh, whilst, as terminus of a branch
(1864) of the Glasgow and South- Western railway, it is
10^ miles SSW of Castle-Douglas and 29| SW of Dum-
fries. The view of the town and the country around it,
as seen from the tower of the old Court-house, is thus
described in Harper's Gallotvay : — 'Immediately below
is the "auld toun," embosomed in its sylvan surround-
ings. Towards the N the scene is truly delightful, the
banks of the Dee, from Tongueland to the sea, being
rich in natural beauty. In the foreground is the river,
sparkling in the sun, and winding like a silver thread
among the green meadows ; while the grounds around
Compstone, sloping gently to the river's margin, are
clothed with plantations of great freshness and beauty.
Farther on, towards the Vale of Tarf, the eye passes
over a succession of knolls, well cultivated fields, and
hills, their sides and summits interspersed with clumps
of wood and fine belts of planting, backed by the brown
heathy peaks of Kirkconnel and Barstobrick. West-
ward we have the sparsely-wooded grounds and rich
alluvial pasturages of Borgue, with the river in the
middle distance, still forming an agreeable rest to the
eye ; and, almost lost in the silvery haze, we discern
the broad brow of Cairnsmore-of-Fleet. On facing to
the right about, the eye rests on marine and inland
views of great extent and loveliness. Before us is the
river, broadening out so as to resemble, as it is called,
a lake. To the right the quiet burying-ground of
Kirkchrist, the high lands and thriving plantations of
Kirkeoch and Senwick sloping gradually to the bay ;
and to the left the precipitous cliff of the Torrs-Point
presents a bold headland. The Ross Isle, with its light-
house, lies in the mouth of the bay, while the densely-
wooded peninsula of St Mary's Isle invades the estuary
with its sylvan foliage. Truly delightful are the en-
virons of Kirkcudbright ; and the objects of historic
and traditional interest in the neighbourhood are well
worthy of a visit.'

The town of old formed almost a square, each side
350 yards long, with a wall and a tidal moat around it,
and a gate at eacli end of its one main street. The
' Meikle Yett ' stood on into last century, and traces
remain of the moat ; but the general aspect of the place
is modern, its six or seven streets, built at right angles
with one another, being neat and regular ; and a number
of pretty villas and cottages have lately sprung up in
the neiglil)Ourhood of tlie station. Water was intro-
duced in 1763, and a gas-work started in 1838. Tlie
old Court-house and Jail, now partly used as a volunteer
drill-hall and armoury, is a quaint 16th century edifice,
whose tower and spire were built with stones from the
ruins of Dundrennan Abbey. Within it the burgh
wassail-bowl, of walnut wood, hooped with brass, and
holding 10 gallons, is l)rought out on great occasions ;
and in front of it stands tlie ancient market cross. A
new Town-hall of 1878-79 is a Grecian building, con-
taining, besides the ordinary offices, a pulilic hall, the
library and reading-room of the Kirkcudbright Institute,

KIRKCUDBRIGHT

and a museum, which last comprises nearly 4000 objects,
and was opened in 1881. The new Court-house of 1868
is a handsome castellated pile, erected at a cost of
£8583, and containing a court-hall seated for 150 per-
sons, the Kirkcudbright law library, etc. ; behind it is
the plain oblong county prison, with 25 cells. The
Almshouses were built at a cost of £3000 by the late Mr
Edward Atkinson. The Academy, erected in 1815 at a
cost of £1129, is a large plain building, with a portico
in front, and three departments, classical, English, and
commercial ; among its masters have been the Rev.
William Mackenzie (1790-1854), a native of the burgh
and author of The History of Galloivay (2 vols., Kirkc,
1841), and James Cranstoun, LL.D., translator of
Catullus and Properfius, and now of the Edinburgh
High School. The Johnstone Free School, built in
1848 at a cost of £2000, and endowed with £3500 more,
consists of a centre, wings, and a handsome tower. A
monastery for Franciscans or Grey Friars, founded at
Kirkcudbright in the first half of the 13th century, is
very obscurely known to history in consequence of its
records having been carried off at the Reformation.
John Carpenter, one of its monks in the reign of David
II., was distinguished for his mechanical genius; and
by his dexterity in engineering he so fortified the castle
of Dumbarton as to earn from the King a yearly pen-
sion of £20 in guerdon of his service. In 1564 the
church of the friary was granted by Queen Mary to the
magistrates of the town to be used as a parish church ;
and when in 1730 it became unserviceable, it yielded up
its site to a successor for the use of the united parish.
The ground occupied by the monastery itself, and the
adjacent orchards and gardens, were given to Sir Thomas
Maclellan of Bombie. The present parish church, erected
in 1836-38 at a cost of £7000, is a large and handsome
structure, with nave, transepts, 1500 sittings, a clock-
tower and spire, and prettily planted grounds. A fine
new Free church (1872-74 ; 712 sittings). Pointed Gothic
in style, cost over £5000, and has stained-glass windows
and a spire 122 feet high. A new U.P. church was
built in 1880 ; and there are also a Roman Catholic
church (1845) and an iron Episcopal chuich (1879).

Not many paces W of the parish church stands the
ruinous, ivy-mantled castle of Kirkcudbright, built in
1582 by Sir Thomas Maclellan of Bombie, the ancestor
of the Lords Kirkcudbright. It is a strong, massive
building, lifting its gables and chimneys so boldly into
view as to give, conjointly with the tower of the jail,
distinctiveness of feature to the burghal landscape ;
and, at the time when it was reared, it must have been
a splendid, as it is still a spacious, edifice. A little W
of the town, very near the river, are some mounds sur-
rounded by a deep fosse, the remains of a very ancient
fortified castle. The tide probably flowed round it in
former times, and filled the fosse with water. The
castle — now vulgarly called Castledykes, but known in
ancient writings as Castlemains — belonged originally to
the Lords of Galloway, when they ruled the province as
a regality separate from Scotland ; and seems to have
been built to command the entrance of the harbour.
Coming into the possession of John Baliol as successor
to the Lords of Galloway, it was, for ten days during
July 1300, the residence of Edward I. and his queen
and court ; and passing into the hands of the Douglases,
on the forfeiture of Edward Baliol, it remained with
them till 1455, when their crimes drew down upon them
summary castigation. In that year it M'as visited
by James II., on his march to crush their malign power.
Becoming now the property of the Crown, it offered, in
1461, a retreat to Henry VI. after his defeat at Towton,
and was his place of residence while his Queen Margaret
visited the Scottish Queen at Edinburgh. In 1508 it
was the temporary residence of James IV., who, while
occupying it, was hospitably entertained by the burgh ;
and next year, by a charter dated at Edinburgh, it was
gifted, along with some lands attached, to the magis-
trates for the common good of the inhabitants.

Kirkcudbright has a post office, with money order,
savings' bank, and telegraph departments, branches of

KIRKCUDBRIGHT

the Bank of Scotland and the National and Commercial
Banks, 15 insurance agencies, 3 hotels, a billiard club,
a bowling club, a lifeboat-station, a weekly Fritlay
market, and fairs identical with those of Castle-
Douglas. The main support of the town arises from
the county law business, from the residence of a con-
sideralile number of annuitants or small capitalists, and
from the retail supply of miscellaneous goods to the
surrounding country. ilanufactures and commerce
have always been on a limited scale. The old smug-
gling trade of the Solway Firth long exerted a baneful
influence on the town's prosperity ; and towards the
close of last century Kirkcudbright by a strange in-
fatuation refused to become a seat of cotton manufac-
ture and sent away its would-be benefactors to found
their cotton-mills at Gatehouse-of- Fleet. Soon after, a
local attempt was made to establish both cotton and
woollen manufactures, but it proved a failure ; and
manufactures of gloves, of boots and shoes, of leather,
of soap and candles, of malt liquors, and of snuff have
also at various times been introduced, but, taken as a
whole, have had little or no success. Commerce chiefly
consists in the export coastwise of agricultural produce,
and in the import of coal, lime, and grain, with occa-
sional cargoes of timber and guano from America. A
steamer sails once a week to Liverpool. The port ranks
merely as a creek of Dumfries ; and the harbour, in
consequence of the almost complete recession of the
Solway tide, is suitable only for small vessels. Never-
theless, in regard to accessibility, spaciousness, and
shelter, it is much the best harbour on the S coast of
Scotland, comprising all the reach from the sea to the
town, and extending over a length of 6 miles. It opens
from the sea, in what is called Kirkcudbright Bay, with
a width of 1| mile ; it contains, on the W side of its
mouth, the islet of Little Ross, surmounted by a light-
house, and flanking a roadstead with 16 feet at low and
40 at high water ; but it sufi^ers complete recession of
the tide from a line IJ mile above Little Ross islet, and
is embarrassed by a bar If mile higher up at St Mary's
Isle. Still it has a depth of 20 feet over that bar at
ordinary spring tides ; and, at the town, it is provided
with a small dock, and has a fine shelving beach,
oflering to vessels the alternative of lying dry on the
sands, or of riding at anchor in the channel, with S
feet of water in ebb and 28 in the flood. A handsome
iron bridge, of the bowstring lattice construction, was
erected over the Dee in 1865-68 at a cost of £10,000.
It is 500 feet long b}-- 23 broad, and consists of five
fixed spans of 71 feet each, with a compound span of
98 feet, which, turning on a cast-iron cylinder filled
with concrete, allows of the passage of vessels beyond
the town up to Tongueland.

Kirkcudbright was anciently a burgh of regality, and
held of the Douglases, Lords of Galloway, as superiors.
Erected into a royal
burgh in 1455 by charter
from James II., it re-
ceived another charter
from Charles I. in 1633,
and is governed by a
provost, 2 bailies, a
treasurer, and 13 coun-
cillors. The incorpo-
rated trades are the
hammermen, shoe-
makers, squaremen,
tailors, weavers, and
clothiers. Sheriff courts
sit weekly on Thursdays
and Fridays ; small
debt courts on every

second Friday during session ; and justice of peace
small debt courts on the second Tuesday of every
month. The quarter sessions are held on the first
Tuesday of March, ]\Iay, and August, and on the last
Tuesday of October. Kirkcudbright unites with Duji-
FRiEs, Annan, Lochmaben, and Sanquhar in sending a
member to parliament. The parliamentary and tha

419

Seal of Kirkcudbrig-ht.

KIRKCUDBRIGHT

KIRKCUDBRIGHT

raimicipal constitueiic}^ numbered 300 and 401 in 1883,
when the annual vahie of real property within the
burgh amounted to £8722 (£7155 in 1873), whilst in
1882 the corporation revenue was £1529, and the har-
bour revenue £130. Pop. (1841) 2606, (1851) 2687,
(1861) 2552, (1871) 2470, (1881) 2571, of whom 1428
were females. Houses (1881) 466 inhabited, 21 vacant.
Some have claimed for Kirkcudbright that it was
known to the Romans as Ecnutium, to the Celtic
Novantee as Caer-cuahrit ( ' fort on the bend of the river ') ;
but the earliest authentic mention of it is the visit of
Ailred, Abbot of Rievaux, in 1164, on the feast of St
Cuthbert, to whom its ancient kirk was dedicated.
The site of this chm'ch is marked by St Cuthbert's
Churchyard, 3 furlongs NE of the town, where, besides
Ewarts and Billy Marshall, the Tinkler (1672-1792), are
buried William Hunter, Robert Smith, and John Hal-
lume, executed at Kirkcudbright for adherence to the
Covenant — the first two by Claverhouse in 1684, and
the last by Captain Douglas in 1685. Soon after 1164
the church of Kirkcuthbert was granted by Uchtred,
Lord of Gallowa}^, to Holyrood Abbey, under which it
remained a vicarage down to the Reformation. That
"Wallace sailed hence to France after the battle of Fal-
kirk (1298) is probably a myth ; and it would seem that
the Regent Albany in 1523 landed, not here, but in
Arran from Brest. We have noticed the visits of
Edward I., James II., Henry VI., and James IV. to
Kirkcudbright, which in 1507 was nearly destroyed by
a body of furious Manxmen, under Thomas, Earl of
Derby. In 1547, in the warfare over the marriage
treaty of Mary and Edward VI., an English party
marched from Dumfries against ' Kirkobrie ; but,' says
the English commander, ' they who saw us coming
barred their gates and kept their dikes, for the town is
diked on both sides, with a gate to the waterward and
a gate on the over end to the fellward.' A vigorous
assault having failed, the English retired, with the loss
of one man in the conflict. The tale of Queen Mary's
flight from Langside (1568) through Kirkcudbright
parish is discarded under Dundrennan and Teiire-
GLES ; but Kirkcudbright Harbour is said to have been
agreed on by Philip II. and the seventh Lord Maxwell
as a landing-place of the Spanish Armada (1588), and
James VI. seems about this time to have visited the
bm-gh, and to have gifted the incorporated trades with
the small silver gun, which last was shot for on the
Queen's Coronation Day (1838). Figuring prominently
in the struggles of the Covenanters, Kirkcudbright
raised a serious riot to resist the induction of a curate
(1663) ; had exposed on its principal gate the heads
of three gentlemen captured at Rullion Green, and
executed at Edinburgh (1666) ; and witnessed, on one
of its streets, a sharp altercation between the perse-
cutor. Sir Robert Grierson of Lag, and Viscount Ken-
mure, step-father to one of Lag's victims, which, but
for Claverhouse's intervention, might have proved fatal
to the former (1685). The fleet of William III., in
1689, on its passage to Ireland, lay some time wind-
bound in Kirkcudbright Bay ; and at Torrs Point are
traces of ' King William's Battery.' In 1698 a woman
accused of witchcraft was burned at the stake near the
town ; in 1706 a petition against the National Union
was signed by the magistrates and principal townsfolk,
and a riot soon after ensued. In 1715 the harbour was
the intended landing-place of the Pretender ; and the
townspeople showed such enthusiasm in the Hano-
verian cause that they sent a company of volunteers to
assist in the defence of Dumfries against the Jacobite
forces. In 1725 the Cameronians here held a sort of
agrarian parliament, where the people were invited to
state their gi-ievances. Paul Jones, the American
privateer, who was born at Arbigland, Kirkcudbright-
shire, in 1778 made a descent on St Mary's Isle, and
entered the mansion of the Earl of Selkirk, with the
design of seizing him as a hostage. Finding that he
was away from home, he carried otf all his silver plate,
but afterwards returned it uninjured to the Countess.
Among eminent natives or residents, other than those
420

already noticed, have been John Welsh of Ayr (1570-
1623), minister in 1590 ; John Maclellan, author of a
Latin description of Galloway (1665), and also for some
time minister ; Thomas Blacklock, D.D. (1721-91), the
blind poet, and minister in 1762-64 ; Basil William,
Lord Daer (1763-94), distinguished as an agricultural
improver ; his brother, Thomas, fifth Earl of Selkirk
(1771-1820), author and politician ; James Wedderburn
(d. 1822), solicitor-general of Scotland ; and John
Nicholson (1777-1866), publisher.

Kirkcudbright gave the title of Baron, in the Scot-
tish peerage, to the family of Maclellan of Bombie.
This family, once very powerful, the proprietors of
several castles, and wielding not a little influence in
Galloway, has already been incidentally noticed. Sir
Patrick Maclellan, proprietor of the barony of Bombie,
in the parish of Kirkcudbright, incurred forfeiture in
consequence of marauding depredations on the lands of
the Douglases, Lords of Galloway, and by the eighth
Earl of Douglas was beheaded at Threave Castle in
1452. Sir William, his son — incited by a proclamation
of James 11. offering the forfeited barony to any per-
son who should disperse a band of Saracens or Gipsies
from Ireland who infested the country, and should
bring in their captain, dead or alive, in evidence of
success — rushed boldlj^ in search of the proscribed
marauders, and earned back his patrimony, by carrying
to the King the head of their captain on the point of
his sword. To commemorate the manner in which he
regained the barony, he adopted as his crest a right
arm raised, the hand grasping a dagger, on the jjoint of
which was a Moor's head, couped, proper ; with the
motto, 'Think on,' — intimating the steadiness of pur-
pose with which he contemplated his enterprise.* Sir
Robert, fourth in descent from Sir William, acted as
gentleman of the bedchamber to James VI. and
Charles I. ; and in 1633 was created by the latter
a baron, with the title of Lord Kirkcudbright. John,
the third Lord, commenced public life by a course of
fierce opposition to Cromwell and the Independents ;
and being at the time the proprietor of the greater part
of the parish, he compelled his vassals to take arms in the
cause of the King, brought desolation upon the villages
of Dunrod and Galtway by draining oft' nearly all their
male inhabitants, and incurred such enormous expenses
as nearly ruined his estates. But at the Restoration,
just when any royalist but himself thought everything
gained, and ran to the King in hope of compensation
and honours, he shied suddenly round, opposed the
royal government, sanctioned the riot for preventing
the induction of an Episcopalian minister, — and was
captured along with other influential persons, sent a
prisoner to Edinburgh, and driven to utter ruin. His
successors never afterwards regained so much as an
aci'e of their patrimony ; and, for a considerable period,
were conceded their baronial title only by courtesy.
One of them was the ' Lord Kilcoubrie, ' whom Gold-
smith, in his sneers at the poverty of the Scottish
nobility, mentions as keeping a glove-shop in Edin-
burgh. In the reign of George III. they were at last
formally and legally re-instated in their honours ; but,
in 1832, at the death of the ninth Lord, the title —
alternately a coronet and a football, now glittering on
the head, and now tossed in the mire by the foot of
every wayfarer — sank quietly into extinction.

The parish of Kirkcudbright since 1683 has comprised
the ancient parishes of Kirkcudbright, Galtway, and
DuNKOD, the first in the N, the second in the centre,
and the third in the S. It is bounded N by Kelton, E
by Rerwick, S by the Irish Sea, and AV by Kirkcudbright

* If one may credit the above tradition, this is the earliest cer-
tain notice of the ])rescnce of Gipsies in the British Isles. Unfor-
tunately it rests on no older authority than a MS. Baronage of
Sir George Maclienzie (1639-91), cited in Cra\vfurd'sPct'/-«7«(l"16).
' Murray ' {t Moor) is said to have been the Gipsy chieftain's name
— a name preserved in Black Morrow Plantation and lilacU morrow
Well. This well younjf Maclellan is said to have 'filled witli siiirits,
of which the outlaw drank so freely that he soon fell uslci p, which
Maclellan perceiving sprang from his hiding-place, and at uuo blow
severed the head of Black Murray from his body. '

KIRKCUDBRIGHT

Bay and the river Dee, which divide it from Borgue,
Twynholni, and Tongueland. Its utmost length, from
N by E to S by W, is 8 miles ; its utmost breadth is 4^
miles ; and its area is 13,668 acres, of which 1146^ are
foreshore, 92;^ links, and 149^ water. The beautiful
Dee winds 3 miles south-south-westward along the
Tongueland and Twynholm border to the town, and
forms in tliis course a series of jiicturesque falls ; lower
down, as already noticed, it broadens into first an
estuary and then Kirkcudbright Bay. Dunrod Burn
runs 4 miles along the eastern boundary to the sea, and
several other rivulets drain the interior to either the
Dee or the sea. The coast, exclusive of the estuary,
measures only 1| mile in extent, and is diversified at
the extremities by Robs Craigs and Gipsy Point, in the
intermediate space by the baylets of Clinking Cove and
Howell Bay. The western district along the Dee is
mainly low and level ; elsewhere the surface has a
general north-north-eastward ascent, attaining 233
feet near Torrs Point, 414 at Drummore, 400 at Bombie
Hill, and 500 at Black Eldrick, and comprising a
diversity of undulations, gentle slopes, hillocks, hill-
girt hollows, and small moorish plateaux. The prevail-
ing rock is greywacke, with occasional masses and dikes
of porphyry. The soil in some places is dry and
gravelly, in others is fertile clay or loam, in others is
light and friable, on a sharp gravelly subsoil, and very
productive, and in others again is either mossy or moorish.
About one-third of the entire area is in tillage ; planta-
tions cover some 450 acres ; and the rest of the land is
either pastoral or waste. The grazing of sheep and of
black cattle is a leading occupation, and the fisheries of
the Dee are highly productive. The hill-fort of Drum-
more has been identified with Caerbantorigum, a town
of the SelgovEe, which Skene, however, places at the
Moat of Urr ; other anticjuities are the site of a Cale-
donian stone circle, vestiges of eight Caledonian and of
three Roman camps, traces of two landward castles of
the ancient Lords of Galloway, and of two of the
Maclellans of Bombie, a natural but artificially streng-
thened cave about 60 feet long, spots that have yielded
flint hatchets, a stone sarcophagus, a cup of Roman
metal, a plate of pure gold, and quantities of coins of
Edward I. of England, two moats for courts of feudal
justice, and sites, vestiges, or cemeteries of five old
rural places of worship. Bombie and Raeberry Castles
are noticed separately. Mansions are St Mary's Isle,
Balmae, Fludha, Janefield, and Oakley ; and the Earl
of Selkirk and one other proprietor hold each an annual
value of more than £500, 7 of between £100 and £500,
13 of from £50 to £100, and 63 of from £20 to £50.
.Kirkcudbright is the seat of a presbytery in the synod
of Galloway ; the living is worth £509. Town-end
public, Townhead public, Whinnie Liggate public, Old
Church, and a Roman Catholic school, with respective
accommodation for 168, 63, 77, 152, and 76 children,
had (1881) an average attendance of 119, 45, 37, 114,
and 48, and grants of £96, 17s., £40, 5s. 6d., £43,
5s. 6d., £91, 16s., and £41, 18s. Valuation (1860)
£15,038, (1883) £21,771, 8s. 9d. Pop. (1801) 2381,
(1841) 3525, (1861) 3407, (1871) 3346, (1881) 3479.—
Ord. Sur., sh. 5, 1857.

The presbytery of Kirkcudbright comprises the quoad
civilia parishes of Anwoth, Balmaclellan, Balmaghie,
Borgue, Buittle, Carsphairn, Crossmichael, Dairy,
Girthon, Kells, Kelton, Kirkcudbright, Parton, Rer-
wick, Tongueland, and Twynholm, and the quoad
sacra parishes of Auchencairn, Castle-Douglas, and
Corsock. Pop. (1871) 21,783, (1881)21,073, of whom
5290 were communicants of the Church of Scotland in
1878. — The Free Church also has a presbytery of Kirk-
cudbright, with churches at Auchencairn, Balmaghie,
Borgue, Castle-Douglas, Macmillan, Girthon, Glenkens,
Kirkcudbright, and Tongueland, which 9 churches to-
getlier had 1670 members in 1883.

See chaps, vi. , vii., of Malcolm Harper's iiOTnJZes m
Galloway (Edinb. 1876), and pp. 47-60 of Maxwell's
Steicartry of Kirkcudbright (3d ed., Castle -Douglas,
1878).

KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE

Kirkcudbright. See Glencaip.n.

Kirkcudbright-Innertig. See Ballantp.ae.

Kirkcudbrightshire or the Stewartry of Kirkcud-
bright, a maritime county in the western part of the
southern border of Scotland, constituting the eastern
portion, and rather more than three-fifths of the whole
extent, of the province of Galloway. It is bounded
NW and N by Ayrshire, NE and E by Dumfriesshire, S
by the Solway Firth and the Irish Sea, and W by Wig-
townshire. Its outline is irregular, but approaches the
figure of a trapezoid. Its utmost length, from E to W,
is 41^ miles ; its utmost breadth, from N to S, is 37 J
miles ; and its area is 953§ miles, or 610,342| acres, of
which 76784 are water and 27,361 foreshore. Its
southern half has, as natural boundaries, the river and
estuary of the Nith on the E, the sea and the Solway
Firth on the S, and the river Cree and Wigtown Bay
on the W ; but the northern half is traced "by natural
boundaries only partially and at intervals, — by the
Cairn for 7i miles above its confluence with the Nith,
by a watershed of mountain summits for 11| miles
south-eastward of its NE angle, and, with trivial excep-
tions, 15 or 16 miles sinuously westward of that angle,
by Loch Doon and its tributary Gala Lane for 8i miles
on the NW, and by the river Cree, from the NW ex-
tremity southward to the southern division of the county.

Kirkcudbrightshire has no recognised or nominal sub-
divisions, except that the four most northerly parishes
are called Glenkens ; but it admits, or rather exhibits,
a very marked natural subdivision into a highland dis-
trict and a champaign country thickly undulated with
hills. A straight line drawn from about the centre of
Irongray parish to Gatehouse-of-Fleet, or to the middle
of Anwoth parish, has, with some exceptions, the former
of these districts on the NW, and the latter on the SE.
The highland or north-western district comprehends
about two-thirds of the whole area, and is, for the most
part, mountainous. Blacklarg, at the point where the
Stewartry meets with Dumfriesshire, has a height of
2231 feet above sea-level ; and it is exceeded by Mer-
rick (2764 feet) in the NW and by eleven other summits.
The heights, all along the boundary, and for some way
into the interior on the N, are part of what is often
termed the Southern Highlands, or the broad alpine
belt which stretches across the middle of the Scottish
lowlands ; they ascend, in the aggregate, to elevations
little inferior to those of any other part of that great
belt ; and, extending down to the sea on the W, and
parallel to Dumfriesshire on the E, they form, in their
highest summits, a vast semicircle, whence broad and
lessening spurs run off into the interior. The glens and
straths among these mountains, even when reckoned
down to the points where their draining streams accumu-
late into rivers, form an inconsiderable proportion, pro-
bably not one-tenth of the whole district. The other
district, the south-eastern one, when viewed from the
northern mountains, appears like a great plain, diversi-
fied only by a variety of shades, according to the colour,
size, or distance of the heights upon its surface. So
gentle, too, is its cumulative ascent from the sea, that
the Dee, at the point of entering it, or even a long way
up the strath on the highland side of the dividing line,
is only 150 feet above the level of the sea. Yet about
one-fourth of its whole area is either roughly hilly, or,
in a secondary sense, mountainous ; while much the
greater proportion of the other three-fourths, though
fully under cultivation, is a rolling, broken, hilly sur-
face, and, for the most part, continues its bold undula-
tions down to the very shore. On the SE the con-
spicuous Criffel rises up almost from the margin of the
Nith to a height of 1867 feet above sea-level, and sends
off a ridge 8 or 9 miles westward in the direction of Dal-
beattie, and a second low ridge away south-westward
parallel with the coast to the vicinity of Kirkcudbright.
These heights are far from being inconsiderable ; and,
lifting their craggy cliff's and dark summits immediately
above the margin of the sea, they form scenery highly
picturesque and occasionally grand. Over all parts of
the county the uplands are, for the most part, broken

421

KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE

by abrapt protuberances, steep banks, and rocky knolls,
diversified into every possible variety of shape ; and
even in the multitudinous instances in which thej'
admit of tillage, either on their lower slopes or over all
their sides and their summits, they rarely present a
smooth and uniform arable surface.

Geology. — The greater portion of the county is made
up of rocks of Silurian age, through which have been
intruded several large masses of granite. Both the
upper and lower divisions of the Silurian system are
well represented ; the former extending from the town
of Kirkcudbright N to the borders of Ayrshire and
Dumfriesshire, and the latter along the shores of the
Solway Firth from the Meikle Ross to the mouth of the
Nith. Partly by means of certain fossiliferous bands
of black shales, and partly by the lithological characters
of the strata, the lower series has been subdivided into
several zones. Of these the most important are the
bands of anthracite schists or black shales, yielding
graptolites in profusion, which occur on two horizons.
The lower group, which is the SW prolongation of the
black shale bauds so typically developed in the Motfat
district, may be traced more or less continuously from
the Scar Water near Dunscore along the Glen Burn to
the Trowdale Glen in the valley of the Urr. From
thence it extends in a SW direction to the village of
Crossmichael and onwards to the moors near Locheu-
breck. To the S of this outcrop the anthracite schists
occur in synclinal folds of the underlying group of
brown crusted greywackes and shales, as, for example,
in the Coal Heugh near Tarff and in the Barlay Burn
N of Gatehouse-of-Fleet. This lower group is overlaid
by massive grey and purple grits and shales, which
cover a wide area, owing to foldings of the strata. They
are admirably displaj-ed on the moors between Kirk-
patrick-Durham and Dairy. Along the crests of the
anticlines the underlying bauds of black shales are
occasionally brought to the surface charged with grap-
tolites, as, for instance, in the Dee near Hensol House,
in the Urr Water N of Corsock, and in the Glenessland
Burn W of Dunscore. The upper group of black shales
is exposed in the Ken and in the Deugh near their point
of junction, whence they stretch W to the Kells range,
where they are truncated by the granite. They re-
appear, however, on the SW side of the Loch Dee
granite in Glen Trool and on the crest of Curleywee.

The_ boundary between the upper and lower Silurian
rocks is marked by a line extending from Falbogue Bay
in the parish of Borgue, NE by Balmangan, the Long
Robin, Castlecreavie, to the junction of the granite near
Auchinleck. An excellent section of the members of
the upper division is exposed along the shore between
Long Robin in Kirkcudbright Bay as far as White Port
in the parish of Rerwick, where they are unconformably
overlaid by Lower Carboniferous rocks. In this section
the upper Silurian rocks may be divided into two
groups. The lower group, extending from Long Robin
to near the mouth of the Balmae Burn, consists of
brown crusted greywackes, flags, and shales, with a
characteristic zone of dark brown sandy shales, yielding
graptolites and orthoceratites. These are overlaid by
olive-coloured shales with limestone nodules, fine con-
glomerates and grey ripple-marked flags comprising the
upper subdivision. They occur on the shore between
Balmae Burn and Howell Bay, on the clitts at Raeberry
Castle, and at Netherlaw Point. The following fossils
have been obtained from the limestone nodules and
bands of conglomerate ■.—Tentaculitcs ornatiis, Atrypa
reticularis, Rhyncoiiella borcalis, Slropliomcna (jrandis,
Murchisonia ohscura, Bellerophon irilobatus, Orthoccras
imbricatum.

The Silurian rocks of this county have been pierced
by various masses of granite, four of which are of special
importance. The first of these extends from Crilfel W
by Dalbeattie to Bengairn ; the second covers the area
between Loch Ken and Caimsmore of Fleet ; tlie tliird
occupies the wild and desolate region between Loch Dee
and Loch Doon ; and the fourth mass occurs round
Caimsmore of Carsphairn. These granitic areas have

KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE

given rise to certain characteristic features in the scenery
of the county. Each of them is coincident with a pro-
minent mass of high ground, possessing very diflerent
features from those common to the Silurian areas.
Along the AV limit of the Bengairn mass there is an
interesting passage between the granite and quartz
felsite of Bentuther Hill. The granite loses its coarsely
crj-stalline character and becomes more fine grained,
while there is a gradual development of a granular
ground mass, in which occur crystals of orthoclase and
plagioclase felspar along with quartz. The pink por-
phyritic quartz-felsite spreads AV across the Stockerton
Moor to the Dee at Tongueland. Numerous veins and
dykes of quartz-felsite radiate in all directions from the
Tongueland and Bentuther porphyry as well as from
the granite.

The carboniferous rocks occupy isolated areas fringing
the shores of the Solway. In the parish of Rerwick they
form a naiTow strip along the coast between the White
Port and Aird's Point E of Rascarrel Bay, a distance of
7 miles. At the former locality there is an excellent
exposure of the unconformability between these rocks
and the upper Silurian formation. The red breccias,
with quartz pebbles, which form the local base of the
carboniferous series at that point, rest on the upturned
edges of the Silurian shales which have been reddened
by infiltration. At Aird's Point the breccias have been
thrown against the Silurian rocks by a fault which
forms the boundary of the outlier W as far as Barlocco.
In addition to the basal breccias, the beds exposed along
the Rerwick shore consist of conglomerates, ashy grits,
sandstones, and cementstones. At certain points be-
tween Barlocco Bay and Orroland they j'ield fossils in
considerable abundance. Small outlying patches of
brecciated grits belonging to the same series are met
with on the shore at Glenstocking and Portowarren.
The most important area, however, extends along the
plain of Kirkbeau from Southerness to the Drum Burn.
At the base of the Cementstone series on the SE slope of
Criftel there is a lenticular patch of purple diabase-
porphyi'ite, which is well seen in the Kirkbean Glen,
resting on reddish grey sandstones and marls. This
fragment of interbedded volcanic rocks is on the same
horizon as the volcanic series of Birrenswark and
Middlebie. In both areas the ancient lavas rest on red
sandstones and marls, and they pass conformably
below cementstones and shales. The latter beds are
Avell exposed in Carsethorn Bay, where they jdeld
fossils plentifully, and to the S of Arbigland they pass
below the white sandstone and grits of Thirlstane. The
highest beds in the section consist of marine limestones
abundantly charged with corals, which are beautifully
seen in the baj' at Arbigland. The natural sequence of
the beds on the Kirkbean shore is much disturbed by
faults, but notwithstanding these dislocations it is pos-
sible to correlate the beds with the succession in Lid-
desdale.

On the W side of the Nith at Dumfries a small por-
tion of the Permian basin is included in this count}'.
In this portion of the basin the beds consist of coarse
breccias which are well exposed in the railway cutting
at Goldielea. In the wood to the N of Mabie, casts of
carboniferous fossils have been found in the pebbles
embedded in the breccia. It is probable that the
Permian rocks formerly extended along the shores of
the Solway towards the mouth of the Dee. The fos-
siliferous sandstones and cementstones at Rascarrel and
Orroland on the Rerwick coast are stained red by infil-
tration of iron oxide, which was, in all likelihood,
obtained from the Permian beds, which have since been
removed by denudation.

Various examjdes of basalt dykes are to be found in
the county, as, for instance, in the Silurian rocks at
Kirkandrews, Borgue, and in the granite to the S of
Lochanhead.

Nowhere in the South of Scotland are the traces of
glaciation to be witnessed on a grander scale than in the
high grounds of Galloway. The ice-markings plainly
show that dm-iug the period of extreme glaciation the

KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE

ice must have radiated from the elevated ground round
the Kells and Merrick ranges. The strioe trend S in
the valley of the Cree, SE towards the mouth of the
Dee, and ESE across the undulating hilly ground to-
wards the vale of the Nith. Over the low grounds the
boulder clay is usually distributed in the form of
'drums,' which foi'm a characteristic feature in the
scenery in the valleys of the Cree, the Dee, and the
Urr. But, in addition to this, there is abundant evi-
dence of the existence of local glaciers, which must
have deposited moraines of considerable dimensions.
Nearly all the valleys draining the E slope of the Kells
range contain moraine mounds. A splendid series is
traceable along the valley of the Deugh, in the parish
of Carsphairn, and another equally well marked series
occurs in the vale of Minnoch, between the Suie and
Bargrennan.

Veins of lead ore occur in the Silurian rocks at Black-
craig, Newton-Stewart, and at Woodhead Carsphairn.
A vein of hematite is met with on the NW slope of the
Coran of Portmark, and another has been worked at
Auchinleck to the NW of Auchencairn. Veins of
barytes are visible also on the farm of Barlocco.

In the neighbourhood of Dumfries, throughout most
of Terregles and part of Troqueer and Irongray, where,
apart from artificial division, the territory forms a por-
tion of the beautiful strath of Nithsdale, stretches a
smooth level tract, carpeted with a mixture of sand and
loam, and possessing facilities of cultivation beyond any
other part of the count}'. Along the banks of the Nith,
from Maxwelltown dovi-nward, and for some distance
lying between the former tract and the river, extends a
belt of merse land, at first narrow and interspersed with
'flows,' but broader iu Newabbey and Kirkbean, and
comprehending about 6000 acres either of carse or of a
rich loam, partly on a gravelly bottom, and parti}' on a
bottom of limestone. From Terregles, south-westwai'd
to the Dee, extends a broad tract, comprising Lochrut-
ton, Kirkgunzeon, and Urr, and part of Kirkpatrick-
Durham, Crossmichael, Kelton, Buittle, and Rerwick,
which, while hilly, has comparatively an unbroken sur-
face, carpeted with a strong soil, though often upon a
retentive subsoil, and peculiarly adapted for tillage.
The broken portions of this tract, and the general area
of the other parts of the comparatively champaign dis-
trict, are much less waste than a stranger to their
peculiarities, who should glance at their appearance,
would imagine. The knolls conceal, by the perspective
of their summits, considerable flat intervals amongst
them ; and while themselves seeming, from the brush-
wood which crowns them, to be unfit for cultivation, are
usually covered with a very kindly soil, of sufficient
depth for the plough. Of an extremely broken field,
not more than one-half of which would seem to a stranger
available for tillage, the proportion really and easily
arable often amounts to four-fifths. Except in loamy
sand and the merse tracts near Dumfries, the soil of
nearly all the ploughed ground of the Stewartry, com-
prehending not only the great south-eastern division,
but the fine strath of the Ken and the narrower vale of
the Cree, is dry loam of a hazel colour, and therefore
locally called hazelly loam, but often degenerating, more
or less, into gravel. The bed of schist on which it lies
is frequently so near the surface as to form a path to
the plough, and probably where the rock is soft, adds
by its attrition to the depth of the soil. In the high-
land division rich meadows, luxuriant pastures, and
arable lands of considerable aggi-egate extent, occur
along the banks of the rivers, on the sloping sides of
the hills, in vales among the mountains, and along the
margins of little streams. A large part of the Glenkens,
too, exhibits highland scenery in such green garb as
characteristically distinguishes Tweeddale. But with
these exceptions, the far-stretching highland district is
in general carpeted with heath and 'flows,' a weary and
almost desolate waste, a thin stratum of mossy soil yield-
ing, amidst the prevailing heath, such poor grass that
the sheep which feed upon it, and are strongly attached
to it, would die of hunger, were there not intervening

KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE

patches of luxuriant verdure. "With large bases, loftj'
summits, and small intervals of valley, the mountains
exhibit aspects of bleakness diversified by picturesque-
ness and romance ; and, sometimes sending down shelv-
ing precipices from near their tops, they are inaccessible to
the most venturous quadruped, and ofi'er their beetling
cliffs for an ejTie to the eagle ; while far below, among
the fragments of fallen rocks, the fox finds a lair whence
he cannot be unkennelled by the huntsman's dogs.

Kirkcudbrightshire sends out a few very trivial head-
waters of the Ayrshire rivers, and receives some equally
unimportant contributions in return ; but, \vith these
exceptions, it is a continuation of the great basin of
Dumfriesshire, and, as far as the joint evidence of the
disposal of its waters and the configuration of its great
mountain-chain could decide, it was naturally adjudged
to the place which it long legally held as a component
part of that beautiful county. What Eskdale is to
Dumfriesshire on the E, Kirkcudbrightshire, in the
sweep of its mountain-chain to near the coast beyond
the Dee, is on the "W ; and all the vast intervening
territory is a semicircular area, with an arc of highland
ridges sweeping round it from one end till nearly the
other of the N side of its chord, and pouring down all
its waters to the S. The Stewartry, unlike Dumfries-
shire, has no expanded plain for concentrating its streams
before giving them to the sea, and, in consequence, dis-
charges much of the drainings of its surface in incon-
siderable volumes of water. Apart from the Nith, the
Cairn, and the Cree, which belong only to its boimdaries,
its chief streams are the Urr, the Ken, the Dee, and the
Fleet. Lakes are very numerous ; and some of them
are remarkable for either the rare species or the abund-
ance of their fish ; but, excepting Doon on the boundary,
and Ken and Kinder in the interior, they are individually
inconsiderable both in size and in interest. Perennial
springs everywhere well up in great abundance, and
aiford an ample supply of excellent water. Of chaly-
beate springs, which also are numerous, the most cele-
brated is that of Lochenbrack, in the parish of Bal-
maghie.

The Solway Fii'th, becoming identified on the W with
the Irish Sea, sweeps round, from the head of the estuary
of the Nith to the head of Wigtown Bay, in an ample
semicircular coast-line of 50 miles, exclusive of sinuosities.
The coast, on the E, is flat ; but elsewhere it is, in general,
bold and rocky, here pierced with caves, and there lined
with cliffs. Along the whole of it, a permanent reces-
sion of the sea has taken place, not very apparent or
productive of any great advantage, indeed, in the high
and rocky regions, but very evident and resulting in a
bequest of the rich territory of the Merse, in the flat
tract along the Nith. Besides the estuary on the E,
and the gulf or large bay on the W, the Solway forms,
at points where it receives streams, very considerable
natural harbours, running up into the country in the
form of bays or small estuaries. The principal are
Piough Firth, at the mouth of the Urr ; Auchencairn
Bay, at the mouth of rivulets a little westward ; Kirk-
cudbright Bay, at the mouth of the Dee ; and Fleet
Bay, at the mouth of the Water of Fleet. Though all
the waters which wash the coast are rich in fish, they
rarely tempt the inhabitants of the coast to spread the
net or cast the line, and have not prompted the erection
of a single fishing village, or the formation of any com-
munity of professed fishermen. Sea-shells and shelly
sand, which are thrown up in great profusion, have
greatly contributed to fertilise the adjacent grounds ;
and they are accompanied, for lands to which it is more
suitable, by large supplies of sea-weed.

In early times the Stewartry appears to have been
covered with woods, and at a comparatively recent
period it had several extensive forests ; but it retains
only scanty portions of its natural woodlands, and these
chiefly along the banks of the rivers. Agricultural
improvement was commenced in the 12th century, prin-
cipally by the settlement among the rude inhabitants of
colonies of monks, and was carried to a greater extent
both in tillage and pasturage than could well have been

423

KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE

KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE

looked for in the rough circumstances of the period.
From various and trustworthy intimation, the country
appears to have been much more fruitful in grain and
other agricultural produce in 1300 than at the beginning
of the 18th century. But disastrous wars and desolat-
ing feuds swept in rapid succession over cultivated fields,
and soon reduced them almost to a wilderness. So
ruthlessly was agriculture thrown prostrate that, towards
the close of the 17th century, small tenants and cot-
tagers, who had neither skill, inclination, nor means to
improve the soil, were allowed to wring from it, in the
paltry produce of rye and here and oats, any latent
energies of 'heart' which it still possessed ; and, on the
miserable condition of paying the public burdens, were

{)ermitted to sit rent-free on farms which now let for at
east £200 a year. Modern improvement commenced
early in the ISth century, and was not a little remark-
able both in the character and in the early history of
its first measure. Sir Thomas Gordon of Earlston
having erected upon his property a stone fence 4 miles
in extent, several other proprietors sparingly, but firmly,
followed his example. But fences seemed to the semi-
savage squatters, to whom utter maladministration had
given almost entire possession of the soil, not less an
innovation upon their rights, than a signal of war ;
and, in April and May 1724, they provoked an insur-
rection, and were all thrown down by the 'levellers.'
The insurgents having been dispersed by six troops of
dragoons, the work of enclosing was resumed Avith
greater vigour than at first, and speedily resulted in
diffusing a skilful care for the right management of the
soil. The discovery, or at least the manurial applica-
tion, of shell-marl, in 1740, formed an important era,
and occasioned the conversion into tillage of large tracts
which had been employed exclusively in pasture. The
.suppression, in 1765, of the contraband trade with the
Isle of Man pointed the way to the exportation of agri-
cultural produce, and occasioned it rapidly to become a
considerable trade. The institution, in 1776, of the
Society for the Encouragement of Agriculture in Gallo-
Avay and Dumfriesshire was a still more important event.
William Craik, Esq. of Arbigland, the chairman of the
society, introduced new rotations of crops, new methods
of cultivation, new machinery, and new modes of treat-
ing cattle, and is justly considered as the father of all
the grand agricultural improvements of the Stewartry.
At the commencement of the present century. Colonel
M'Dowal of Logan made great achievements in the
reclaiming of mosses. In 1809 the Stewartry of Kirk-
cudbright Agricultural Society arose to urge forward a
rivalry with Dumfriesshire and other adjacent counties ;
and while it was not yet a twelvemonth old it num-
bered 130 members, all landholders and practical farmers,
with the lord-lieutenant and the member of parliament
at their head. The high price of grain during the
French war at the commencement of the present cen-
tury, the opening up of the English markets by steam
navigation (1835), and the introduction of railways
(1860-64), have each in their turn proved a powerful
stimulus.

Both before the close of last century and during the
course of the present, plantations, especially on the
grounds of Lord Daer and the Earl of Selkirk, have
risen i;p to shelter and beautify the country ; but even
with the aid of about 3500 acres of copsewood, remaining
from the ancient forests, they are far from being suffi-
cient in extent or dispersion to shield the country from
imputations of nakedness of aspect, or prevent it from
appearing to a stranger wild and bleak. Rather less
than one twenty-third of the whole of Scotland is under
woods ; in Kirkcudbrightshire the proportion is less
than one thirty-fifth, viz., 17,346 acres. The fences,
in far the greater proportion of instances, are the dry
stone walls, distinctively known as Galloway dykes ;
but in the vicinity of Dumfries and a few other localities
they consist of various sorts of hetlges, all ornamental
in the featuring they give the landscape. Agricultural
imi)lemfnts are simply the ajiju-oved ones known in
other well -cultivated counties. Systems of cropping are
424

necessarily various, not only throughout the Stewartry,
but very often in the same parish. Out of 1696 farm-
holdings, there are 775 of 50 acres and imder, 254 of
from 50 to 100, 451 of from 100 to 300, 120 of from 300
to 500, 25 of from 500 to 1000, and 1 of more than 1000
acres. In the whole of Scotland the percentage of culti-
vated area is 24 '2 ; in Kirkcudbrightshii-e it is 26 '8— a
figure exceeded by Fife (74 '8) and nineteen other Scotch
counties. The following table gives the acreage of the
chief crops and the number of live-stock in the Stewartry
in dilfereut years : —

1854.

1867.

1874.

1878.

1882.

Wheat,. . . .

1,895

726

728

259

162

Barley or here, .

1,886

497

419

365

639

Oats, ....

32,147

31,028

30,615

31,370

31,991

Sown Grasses, .

40,133

46,676

56,809

56,241

Potatoes, . . .

3,349

2,479

2,344

2,172

2,638

Turnips & Swedes,

13,502

14,992

14,293

14,902

14,516

Cattle, ....

36,901

34,231

41,362

38,639

39,636

Sheep, ....

243,543

361,428

404,689

371,507

371,541

Horses, . . .

5,829

5,182

5,426

5,390

Swine, ....

9,351

8,661

7,071

6,502

7,246

The breeding and rearing of cattle has long been a
favourite object of the farmers. Few counties can
boast of pastures whose gi'ass has such a beautiful close-
ness of pile, and which, after a scourging course of
crops, so rapidly return to their natural verdure and
fertility. The breed of Galloway cattle — peculiar to
the district, though now extensively kno^^•n by importa-
tions from it — are almost universally polled, and rather
under than over the medium size, — smaller than the
horned breed of Lancashire or the midland counties, and
considerably larger than any of the Highland breeds.
Their prevailing colour is black or dark-brindled. The
breed has, in some parts of the county, been materially
injured by intermixture with the Irish, the Ayrshire,
and some English breeds. But the offshoots of foreign
crossings or admixtures are recognisable among the
native stock, even after fifty or sixty years have elapsed
to elTace their peculiarities ; and they are now held in
little estimation, and sought to be substituted by the
purest and choicest propagation of the native variety.
Few of the cattle are fed for home consumption. (See
an article by the Rev. J. Gillespie on ' The Galloway
Breed of Cattle' in Trans. Highl. and Ag. Soc, 1878.)
In the moor and mountainous districts sheep-husbandry
has long been sedulously plied, but in other districts it
meets very trivial attention. Long-woolled Lincoln-
shire sheep — here called mugs — were tried and failed.
The Leicestershire merinos, the Herefords, and the
Shetlands were also introduced, but secured little favour.
The Southdown, the Cheviot, the Morf, and the Mendip
breeds have had more success, and, jointly with varieties
previously in the district, tenant the sheep-walks in
singular motleyness of character. Smearing or salving
is practised. Great attention here, as in Dumfriesshire,
is paid to the produce of pork — chiefly for the Dumfries
market, and, through it, for supplying the demands of
England. Bees are much attended to in Twynholm,
Borgue, Tongueland, and Kirkcudbright, and there pro-
duce honey equal, if not superior, to any in the world.
Few districts in Scotland, except the Highlands, are
more abundant than Kirkcudbrightshire, both in num-
ber and variety of game.

The manufactures of the Stewartry are very incon-
siderable ; and are noticed under Castle-Douglas,
Dalbe.vttie, and Maxwelltown. Commerce is al-
most wholly confined to the exportation of grain, wool,
sheep, and black cattle, and the importation of coals,
lime, wood, groceries, and soft goods. The harbours of
the district, as compared to what they were a century
ago, exhibit marvellously little of the progress which
elsewhere generally characterises Scotland. Those
situated to the W of Kirkandrew Burn are creeks of the
port of Wigtown ; those situated to the E of that burn
are creeks of the port of Dumfries. A great military
road, part of a line from Carlisle to Portpatrick, was

KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE

KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE

formed in 1764 ; many excellent roads, with minute
ramifications, "were formed subsequent to that year,
especially after the years 1780 and 1797 ; and the roads
now, considering the upland contour of the greater part
of the county, are not inferior, either in their own con-
struction or in their aggregate accommodation, to those
of almost any other part of Scotland. The railways,
forming part of the Glasgow and South-Western system,
are the Dumfries and Portpatrick line, by way of Kirk-
gunzeon, Dalbeattie, Castle-Douglas, Parton, Drum-
more, and Creetown, and the Kirkcudbright railway,
from a junction with that line at Castle-Douglas to
Kirkcudbright town.

The following are the towns and villages of Kirkcud-
brightshire, with their population for 1881 : — royal and
parliamentary biu'ghs, Kirkcudbright (2571) and New
Galloway (422) ; police burghs, Castle-Douglas (2565),
Dalbeattie (3865), Gatehouse (1286), Maxwelltown
(4576), and part of Newton-Stewart (425) ; villages,
Auchencairn (441), Creetown (979), Dairy (603), and
Kirkpatrick-Durham (484). The principal seats are
Ai'bigland, Ardwall, Argrennan, Balmaghie, Bargaly,
Barholm, Barnbarroch, Barncailzie, Barwhinnock,
Cairnsmore, Cally, Cardoness, Cargen, Carlinwark,
Carruchan, Cassencarrie, Cavens, Compstone, Corsock,
Cumloden, Danevale, Drumpark, Earlston, Fludha,
Gelston Castle, Glenhowel, Glenlair, Glenlaggan, Glen-
lee, Goldielea, Hensol, Kenmure Castle, Kirkclaugh,
Kirkconnell, Kirkdale, Kirroughtree, Knockgray,
Knocknalling, Lincluden, Mabie, Machermore Castle,
MoUance, Munches, Eusko, St Mary's Isle, Shambellie,
Southwick, Spottes, Terregles, Threave, etc. ; and, ac-
cording to Miscellaneoxcs Statistics of the United Kingdom
(1879), 571,950 acres, with a gross estimated rental of
£360,960, were divided among 2386 proprietors, one hold-
ing 55,981 acres (rental £7333), iive together 171,184
(£63,962), six 80,910 (£30,273), six 36,624 (£14,493),
thirty-four 102,600 (£59,381), forty 53,450 (£41,008),
fifty-two 35,928 (£31,903), etc.

The county is governed by a lord-lieutenant, a vice-
lieutenant, 29 deputy-lieutenants, a sheriff, a sheriff-
substitute, 2 assistant sheriff-substitutes, ancl 84 magis-
trates. Sheriff and commissary courts are held at Kirk-
cudbright on every Thursday and Friday during session.
Sheriff small debt courts are held at Kirkcudbright on
every alternate Friday during session — at Castle-Douglas
on a "Wednesday in January, March, June, and Sep-
tember— at Maxwelltown on a Tuesday in the same
months — at New Galloway on a Tuesday in March and
May, and on a Thursday in September — and at Creetown
on a Saturday in March, May, and September. Quarter
sessions are held at Kirkcudbright on the first Tuesday
of March, May, and August, and on the last Tuesday of
October ; and justice of peace small debt courts are held
at Kirkcudbright on the second Tuesday, at New Gallo-
way on the second Monday, at Castle-Douglas on the
first Monday, at Maxwelltown on the first Thursday,
and at Gatehouse on the first Saturday, of every
month — at Creebridge on the first Saturday of every
alternate month. The police force, in 1882, exclusive
of that in Maxwelltown, comprised 20 men ; and the
salary of the chief-constable was £250. The persons
tried at the instance of the police, in 1881, exclusive of
those in Maxwelltown, were 284 ; those in that number
convicted, 281 ; and those committed for trial, 33. The
committals for crime, in the annual average of 1836-40,
were 36 ; of 1841-45, 24 ; of 1846-50, 23 ; of 1851-55,
29 ; of 1856-60, 35 ; of 1861-65, 17 ; of 1865-69, 11 ;
of 1870-74, 23 ; of 1872-76, 23 ; of 1877-81, 22.
The county returns a member to parliament (always
a Liberal since 1837), and its parliamentary consti-
tuency numbered 2278 in 1883. The annual value
of real property was £218,308 in 1815, £193,801
in 184.3, £346,503 in 1876, and £362,675 {2)lus £29,475
for railways) in 1883. Pop. (1801) 29,211, (1811) 33,684,
(1821) 38,903, (1831) 40,590, (1841) 41,119, (1851)
43,121, (1861) 42,495, (1871) 41,859, (1881) 42,127, of
whom 22,320 were females. Houses (1881) 8412 in-
habited, 488 vacant, 42 building.
6i

The registration county, taking in part of Penning-
hame parish from Wigtownshire, comprehends 28 entire
parishes, and had, in 1881, a population of 42,290. The
number of registered poor in the year ending 14 May
1881 was 1069 ; of dependants on these, 518 ; of casual
poor, 398 ; of dependants on these, 290. The receipt?
for the poor, in that year, were £12,483, 3s. 82d. ; and
the expenditure was £12,024, Os. 8d. The number of
pauper lunatics was 107, the cost of their maintenance
being £1823, 7s. 2d. The percentage of illegitimate
births was 17-4 in 1873, 14-2 in 1877, 15-9 in 1880, and
12-0 in 1881.

The civil county comprises 2% quoad civilia parishes, and
is divided ecclesiastically into 33 quoad sacra parishes
and part of another. The part of it E of the river Urr
was anciently comprehended in the deanery of Nith and
diocese of Glasgow, and is now included in tlie presby
tery and synod of Dumfries ; and the part W of the
river Urr formed anciently the deanery of Desnes in the
diocese of Galloway, and now forms the presbytery of
Kirkcudbright and part of the presbytery of Wigtown in
the synod of Galloway. The places of worship within
the county are 33 of the Church of Scotland, 19 of the
Free Church, 7 of the United Presbyterian Church, 1 of
the Evangelical Union, 3 of Episcopalians, and 5 of
Roman Catholics. In the year ending 30 Sept. 1882
the county had 72 schools (64 of them public), which,
with acconmiodation for 8991 children, had 6852 on the
registers, and 5352 in average attendance. The certifi-
cated, assistant, and pupil teachers numbered respec-
tively 97, 4, and 40.

During the Roman period in Britain, Kirkcudbright-
shire was occupied, along with other extensive terri-
tories, by two British tribes, — the Selgovse, E of the
Dee ; and the Novantse, W of that stream. British
strengths line the whole frontier of the two tribes along
both sides of the Dee, and occur in considerable num-
bers both eastward and westward in the interior, inter-
spersed with the sites of Roman garrisons, placed to
overawe a people who could not be easily subdued.
Caves, subterraneous excavations, and other remarkable
hiding-places, resorted to by the inhabitants in bar-
barous times, perforate the cliffs on the rocky coast, and
occur in various inland localities. The most notable is
one in the parish of Borgue. Stone circles occur, in
sections or entire, in the parishes of Kirkbean, Colvend,
Kirkgunzeon, Lochrutton, Parton, Kelton, Berwick,
Kirkmabreck, and Minnigaft'. A remarkable rocking-
stone exists in Kells. Cairns and tumuli abound, and,
in numerous instances, have yielded up some curious
antiqi;ities. Picts' kilns and murder-holes — the former
of which abound in Minnigaff and Kirkmabreck — seem
to be peculiar to Galloway ; and if so, are comparatively
modern works rather than strictly ancient. A Roman
road, branching off through Glencairn from the great
road up Nithsdale, passed through the lands of Altry in
Dairy, to the farm of Holm in Carsphairn, proceeded
thence across the ridge of Polwhat to the NW extremity
of the parish, and there entered Ajrshire to penetrate by
Dalmellingtou to the Firth of Clyde. Vestiges of the
part of this road which traversed Kirkcudbrightshire
still exist. A very ancient work, probably erected by
the Romanized Britons, and intended for defence of the
inhabitants on its S side, has been described under the
Deil's Dyke. The principal ecclesiastical antiquities
are the abbeys of Dundrennan, Tongueland, and New-
abbey, the priory of St Mary's Isle, and the convent
(afterwards the college) of Lincluden.

The civil history of Kirkcudbrightshire has been
rapidly sketched in the article Galloway. The Pictish
people of the district, who for so many years retained
their own laws and practised their own usages, would
not permit the introduction among them of a sheriffdom.
Till 1296 what is now the Stewartry was considered as
a part of Dumfriesshire. Throughout the 13th century,
a violent struggle was maintained between the power of
ancient usages, and that of the municipal law of recent
introduction. The influence of the Comyns, during the
minority of Alexander III., introduced a justiciary — a

425

KIRKDALE

KIRKFORTHAR HOUSE

beneficial jhange which was continued after Baliol's de-
thronement. The Comj^n's forfeiture jilaced the lord-
ship of Galloway in the possession of the illustrious
Bruce, and — Western Galloway being already under the
jurisdiction of the sheriff of "\Vigto^vn — seems to have
occasioned the erection of Eastern and Central Gallo-
way into the present Stewartr)-. In 1369, Archibald
Douglas (the Grim) wrenched, for himself and his heirs,
from the weakness of David II., the lordship of Gallo-
way, and with it the Stcwartry to which it gave appoint-
ment and power. But in 1455, when, on the forfeiture
of the Douglases, the lordship of Galloway reverted to
the Crown, the steward of Kirkcudbright became again
the steward of the King. Though, for a long time, the
territory continued to be nominally viewed as, in some
respects, comprehended in Dumfriesshire, the steward
was quite as independent as the sheriff, and, within his
own territory, regular!}' executed, in discharge of his
office, the writs of the King, and the ordinances of par-
liament. Before the commencement of the civil wars
under Charles I., all trace of jurisdictional connection
in any form whatever with Dumfriesshire had disap-
peared. But, from 148S till the abolition of heritable
jurisdictions in 1747, the Stewartry was enthralled by
the imposition of a baronial or feudal character upon its
supreme office. After the fall of James III. in the former
year, Patrick, Earl of Bothwell, obtained a grant of the
powers of Steward till the infant James IV. should at-
tain the age of 21 years. In 1502, Sir John Dunbar of
Mochrum got, for himself and his heirs, a grant for 9
years of the offices of steward of Kirkcudbright and
keeper of Threave Castle, with their revenues, their
lands, and their fisheries. Early in the reigu of James
v., Robert Lord Maxwell obtained a similar grant for
19 years ; and in 1526 he received the offices and their
pertinents as a regular hereditary possession. At the
abolition of heritable jurisdictions, Henrietta, the Coun-
tess-dowager of Hopetoun, and the legal representative
of the Maxwells, was allowed £5000 in compensation
for the stewardship. Various other jurisdictions per-
plexed and chequered the district. The Stewarts of
Garlics, who became Earls of Galloway, had a separate
jurisdiction over aU their estates in Minnigaff and
Kirkmabreck, and in 1747 received for it £154, 9s. lOd. ;
whilst the Lords Herries ruled separately over ' the
regality of Terregles,' for which they were allowed
£123, 4s. Id. The provosts of Lincluden, the abbot of
Dundrennan, the abbot of Tongueland, the abbot of
Newabbey, and the Bishop of Galloway also had terri-
tories independent of the Steward. The regality of
Almoreness, and some eight or nine baronies, were like-
wise separate jurisdictions. "When all the feudalities
were overthrown, the emancipated Stewartry was placed
under a stewart-depute, whose functions were the same
as those of the sheriflF-depute. The first stewart-depute,
at a salary of £150a-year, was Thomas Miller, advocate,
who, rising to the top of his profession, became presi-
dent of the Court of Session, and left a baronetcy with
a fair name to his family.— Ore?. Sur., shs. 4, 5, 8, 9,
14, 15, 1857-64.

See an article on ' The Agriculture of the Stewartry
of Kirkcudbright,' by Thomas MacLelland, in Tram.
Highl. and Ag. Soc. (1875) ; M. E. Maxwell's Stewartry
of Kirkcxcdbrirjht (3d ed. 1878) ; and works cited under
G.xi-LOW.A^Y and Dcndrexxan.

Kirkdale, a mansion and an ancient parish of SW
Kirkcudbriglitshire. Kirkdale House, near the shore
of Wigtown Bay, 5^ miles SSE of Creetown, is a splendid
18th century edifice of polished granite in the Italian
-style, after designs by Robert Adam, surrounded with
beautiful grounds, and commanding strikingly pic-
turesque view.s. Its owner, Frederick Rainsford-Hannay,
Esq. (b. 1810 ; sue. 1856), holds 3938 acres in the shire,
valued at £2186 per annum. The ancient parish was
annexed in 1636, partly to Anwoth and chiefly to Kirk-
mabreck. Its church stood in the vale of a burn fall-
ing into Wigtown Bay, ^ mile below Kirkdale mansion ;
and the graveyard is still in use.— C/'d Sur., sh. 4.
1857.

426

Kirkden, a parish of SE central Forfarshire, contain-
ing at its NE corner the village, station, and post office
of" Friockheim, 6 J miles NW by W of Arbroath.
Anciently it was called Idvie, its glebe forming part of
Idvies barony ; and it took its present name from the
circumstance of its church being situated in one of
those dells that locally are known as dens. It is bounded
N by Guthrie, NE by Kinnell, E and SE by Inverkeilor,
S by Carm3dlie and the Dunbarrow section of Dunnichen,
and W and NW by Dunnichen and Rescobie. All but
cut in half by the detached portion of Dunnichen, it
has an utmost length from ENE to AVSW of 5§ miles,
a varying breadth of 150 yards and 2j miles, and an
area of 5018^ acres, of which 19 are water. The Vinney
rivulet ^vinds 4j miles east-north-eastward along the
Dunnichen and Rescobie boundarj', then 2h miles east-
ward through the interior, till at Friockheim it falls
into Lunau Water, which itself flows 2| miles east-by-
southward along the Guthrie border. The gently un-
dulating surface has a gradual west-south-westward
ascent from 150 to 500 feet above sea-level, spurs of the
Sidlaw Hills in the SW commanding extensive and
brilliant views. Trap occurs in the hills ; but hard
grej' sandstone, belonging to the Devonian formation,
prevails throughout the rest of the parish, and has been
largely quarried. The soil is chiefly friable clay,
occasionally mixed with sand and gravel ; and, though
natui'ally cold and shallow, has been highly improved
by marling, manuring, and judicious working. There
is wood enough for shelter and embellishment ; and
nearly all the rest of the land is under cultivation.
Gardj-ne Castle (Alex. Lyell, Esq. ) is a fine old baronial
residence, somewhat resembling Glamis Castle ; other
antiquities are an obelisk opposite Pitmuies House, and
two artificial mounds on the estates of Gardyne and
Idvies. Mansions are Idvies, Middleton, and Pitmuies ;
and 4 proprietors hold each an annual value of £500
and upwards, 2 of from £50 to £500, and 8 of from £20
to £50. Giving off a portion to the quoad sacra parish
of Friockheim, Kirkden is in the presbytery of Arbroath
and synod of Angus and Mearns ; the living is worth
£191. The parish church, on the left bank of the
Vinney, opposite Letham, 6 miles ESE of Forfar, was
rebuilt in 1825, and contains 525 sittings. The public
school, with accommodation for 105 children, had (1881)
an average attendance of 64, and a grant of £63, 9s.
Valuation (1857) £5629, (1883) £8946, 17s. 6d., plies
£2029 for railway. Pop. of civil parish (1801) 674,
(1831) 1039, (1861) 1862, (1871) 1623, (ISSl) 16S2 ; of
ecclesiastical parish (1871) 523, (1881) 'on.—Ord. Sur.,
sh. 57, 1868.

Kirkdominse, an ancient chapelry in Carrick district,
A}'rshire, within the part of the ancient parish of Girvan
which, in 1653, became the parish of Barr. Its church,
crowning an eminence on the right bank of the Stinchar,
If mile SW of Barr village, belonged to Crossraguel
Abbey, and was partly taken down as building material
for Barr church, but is still represented by some ruins.
A well, approached by an archway, adjoins the ruins ;
and an annual fair, till a recent pei'iod, was held on
the ground around. — Ord. Sur., sh. 8, 1863.

Kirkebost. See Kirkibost.

Kirkfield, an estate, with a mansion, in Lesmahagow
parish, Lanarkshire, If mile W by S of Lanai'k.

Kirkfieldbank or Kirkland, a village in Lesmahagow
parish, Lanarkshire, on the left bank of the Clyde, 1 mile
W of Lanark. Adjoining a beautiful sweep of the river,
which contains a romantic wooded island, and is spanned
by a three-arched bridge, it chiefly consists of two ranges
of houses along the road from Lanark to Glasgow ; and
has a post office under Lanark, an Established chapel
of ease, and a public school. The chapel of ease was
built in 1871 at a cost of about £8000, and contains
400 sittings. Pop. (1841) 1023, (1861) 1212, (1871)
963, (1881) 963.— Ord. Sur., sh. 23, 1865.

Kirkforthar House, an old mansion on the Balbiruie
estate, in Markinch parish, Fife, 3 miles N of ^Markinch
village. Near it are the hamlet of Kirkforthar Feus
and the graveyard of tlie ancient chapeh-y of Kiik-

sSiWmiiaaiii

KIRKGUNZEON

forthar, which chapeliy, forming the north-eastern
section of Markinch parish, had a separate status till
the beginning of the 17th century, and has bequeathed
to places in and near it the names of Kirkforthar Wood
and Hilton of Kirkforthar.— Ore?. Sur., sh. 40, 1867.

Kirkgunzeon, a post-ofBce village and a parish of SE
Kirkcudbrightshire. The village stands, 190 feet above
sea-level, on Kirkgunzeon Lane or Burn, \ mile WNW
of Kirkgunzeon station on the Glasgow and South-
western railway, this being 10| miles SW of Dumfries
and ^\ NNE of Dalbeattie. It was originally called
Kirkwiuong or Kirkwinnyn, from the same saint who
gave name to Kilavinxing in Ayrshire.

The parish, containing also the stations of Killywhan
and Southwick, 2 miles NNE and 2^ SSW of Kirk-
gunzeon station, is bounded N by Lochrutton, E by
Newabbey, SE and S by Colvend, and SW, AV, and NW
by Urr. Its utmost length, ftom N to S, is 6| miles ;
its utmost breadth, from E to W, is 4^ miles ; and its
area is 11,956^ acres. Kirkgunzeon Lane, coming in
from the N, winds 4^ miles south-westward through
the interior, then 2^ miles southward along the western
boundary, till, passing off into Urr, and there taking
the name of Dalbeattie Burn, it falls into Urr Water,
7 furlongs below Dalbeattie town. In the valley of the
stream the surface declines to elose on 100 feet above
sea-level, thence rising to 450 at Barclosh Hill and
750 at Clawbelly Hill in the S, 520 at Bar Hill in
the W, 646 at Caniphill in the N, 1250 at the Long
Fell and 1050 at Lotus Hill on the eastern border. A
considerable aggregate of alluvial land lies along Kirk-
gunzeon Lane ; thence to the NW boundary, and over a
medium breadth of fully 1 mile to the SE, the ground is
tumulated and hilly ; and all the tract on the eastern and
the south-eastern border consists of the western declivities
of CPlIFFEL. Granite predominates in this eastei'u and
south-eastern tract, and is quarried for ornamental steps
and gate pillars ; and bluish compact greywacke, used
for building stone fences, is elsewhere the principal rock.
The soil of the alluvial vale is naturally fertile ; and
that of the other arable lands, by nature either stony or
swampy, has been highly impi'oved by art; but the soil
of the uplands is lieathy and shallow, fit only for sheep
pasturage. Antiquities are vestiges of several round
camps, and the mediaeval towers or castles of Barclosh,
Corrah, and Drumcultran. Maxwell of Terregles is the
chief proprietor, 4 others holding each an annual value of
between £100 and £500, and 1 of from £20 to £50.
Kirkgunzeon is in the presbytery and synod of Dum-
fries ; the living is worth £186. The parish church,
at the village, which was originally built towards the
close of the 12th century, and rebuilt in 1790, contains
160 sittings ; and a public school, with accommodation
for 120 children, had (1881) an average attendance of
108, and a grant of £119, 15s. 8d. Valuation (1860)
£5378, (1883) £8129, 4s. 9d. Pop. (1801) 545, (1831)
652, (1861) 793, (1871) 661, (1881) QbQ.—Ord. Sur., sh.
5, 1857.

Kirkhall, an estate, with a mansion, in Ardrossan
parish, Ayrshire, 1| mile N of the town. Its owner,
Hugh Ferry Weir, Esq. (b. 1815 ; sue. 1838), holds 25
acres in the shire, valued at £68 per annum.

Kirkhill, a parish of N Inverness-shire, comprising
the ancient parishes of Wardlaw and Farnua, and con-
taining the stations of Bunchrew, Lentran, and Clunes,
3|, 5|, and 7^ miles W by N of the post-town Inverness.
It is bounded N W by Kilmorack, N by the Beauly Firth,
E and SE by Inverness, and S by Kiltarlity. Its
utmost length, from E to W, is 7^ miles ; its utmost
breadth, from N to S, is 5| miles ; and its area
is 13,213§ acres, of which 20^ are water, 104| tidal
water, and 1703§ foreshore. The river Beauly winds 4|
miles north-eastward along all the north-western border
to the head of the Beauly Firth, which lower down receives
from this parish Moniack, Bunchrew, and other burns,
and from which the surface rises steeply southward over
the eastern half to 588 feet at Inchberry Hill, 1036 at
Cnoc na Moine, and 1337 at An Leacainn. The rocks
are partly eruptive, partly Devonian ; and the soil of

KIRKHOPE

the low grounds is a rich clayey loam, whilst that of the
higher grounds is thin and gravelly. A large propor-
tion of the parish is occupied by plantations or by
natural woods of birch and alder. Near the left bank
of the Beauly, opposite Beauly town, stood LovAT
Castle, founded by the Bissets in 1230. Other an-
tiquities are remains of two ancient Caledonian stone
circles ; a groujJ of tumuli, said to be memorials of a
desperate clan fight ; and the site of Wardlaw church,
now occupied by the Lovat mortuary chapel. Mansiens
are Achnagairn, Balblair, Bunchrew, Kingillie, Len-
tran, Moniack Castle, and Newton ; and Lord Lovat
and 6 lesser proprietors hold each an annual value of
£500 and upwards. Kirkhill is in the presbytery of
Inverness and synod of Moray ; the living is worth
£343. The parish church, | mile SSW of Clunes
station, is a modern and commodious edifice. There
is also a Free church ; and three public schools —
Inchmore, Kirkton, and Knockbain — with respective
accommodation for 160, 60, and 75 children, had (1881)
an average attendance of 75, 27, and 72, and grants of
£51, 9s. 6d., £38, 19s. 6d., and £63, 19s. Valuation
(1860) £8493, (1882) £10,659, 13s. Pop. (1801) 1582,
(1831) 1715, (1861) 1757, (1871) 1582, (1881) 1480, of
whom 886 were Gaelic-speaking. — Ord. Sur., sh. 83,
1881.

Kirkhill, a village in Penicuik and Lasswade parishes,
Edinburghshire, on the North Esk, ^ mile NE of
Penicuik town. Standing on rising-grounds, it has
been extended since 1861 from the left to the right
bank of the river ; and it is mainly inhabited by paper-
makers. Pop. (1861) 342, (1871) 671, (1881) 755, of
whom 505 were in Penicuik parish. — Ord. Sur., sh. 32,
1857.

Kirkhill. See Cambuslang.

Kirkhill, a mansion in Uphall parish, Linlithgow-
shire, i mile W by N of Broxburn.

Kirkhill Castle, a modern mansion, successor to an
ancient predecessor, in Colmonell parish, Ayrshire, on
the NW outskirts of the village. Its owner, Mrs B. F.
Gray, holds 1525 acres in the shire, valued at £1330
per annum. — Ord. Sur., sh. 7, 1863.

Kirkhill House, a mansion in Cockpen parish,
Edinburghshire, on the right bank of the South Esk,
IJ mile WNW of Gorebridge. It is the seat of the
ex-Lord Provost Sir William Johnston, Knt. (b. 1802),
the brother, and for forty years the i^artner, of the
geogi'apher, Alex. Keith Johnston, LL.D., F.R.S.
(1804-71), whose son was the explorer, A. K. Johnston
il8i6-79).— Ord. Sur., sh. 32, 1857.

Kirkholm, an islet in the mouth of Sell Voe, in
Sandstiug parish, Shetland, ISJ miles WNW of Lerwick.
It appears to have been anciently fortified, as it
retains traces of a breastwork round its most accessible
parts, and of the foundations of nine houses within
the line of the breastwork.

Kirkhope, a parish of NE Selkirkshire, containing
Ettrick-Bridge village, on the left bank of Ettrick
Water, 7 miles WSW of Selkirk, under which it has a
post office. It is bounded NE by Selkirk, E by Ash-
kirk in Roxburghshire, SE by Selkirk (detached) and
Roberton, SW and W by Ettrick, and NW by Yarrow.
Its utmost length, from NE to SW, is 8f miles ; its
utmost breadth, from NW to SE, is 5^ miles ; and its
area is 22,972^ acres, of which 248^ are water. Ettrick
Water has here a north-easterly course of 11 miles,
partly along the boundaries with Ettrick and Selkirk,
but mainly across the interior ; and during this course
it is joined by seventeen little tributary burns. Six
lakes, however, send off their effluence to Ale Water —
Clearburn Loch (2^ x 1 furl. ), Crooked Loch (2x1 furl.),
and Hellmuir Loch (34 x 2| furl.), on the southern and
south-eastern boundary ; and Shaws Upper Loch (l§x
li furl.), Shaws Under Loch (3^ x IJ furl.), and Aker-
moor Loch (2J x 1 furl.), near the south-eastern boun-
dary. The surface declines along Ettrick Water to 480
feet above sea-level ; and chief elevations to the right
or SE of the river are Hutlerburn (1178 feet), Howford
Hill (1012), Cavers Hill (1209), Shaws Hill (1292),

427

KIRKIBOLL

Mossbrae Height (1528), ami Wedder Lairs (1539) ; to
the left or NW, *Fauldshope Hill (1532), *Crook Hill
(1580), Long Knowe (1175), *Suudhope Height (1684),
and *Black Knowe Head (1808), where asterisks mark
those summits that culminate on the confines of the
parish. Along the banks of Ettrick Water and in the
mouth of some of the little glens are patches of low
arable land ; but the rest of the parish consists almost
wholly of hill or table-land, the eastern district being
chiefly a bleak, dark, heathy plateau, which, lying
1000 feet above sea-level, is much of it occupied by
swamp or morass, and presents scarce one feature to
relieve the eye except the above-named lakes. The
rocks are Silurian ; and the soils of the hill pastures
resemble those of Ettrick and of Yarrow. Sheep-
farming is the principal occupation. In the AV of the
parish are traces of the Catrail or Picts' Work Ditch,
running near the right bank of Ettrick AVater. The
Duke of Buccleuch is the largest proprietor, 3 others
holding an annual value of more, and 2 of less, than
£500. Conjoined with St Mary's and Deuchar in 1640
to form the parish of Yarrow, and disjoined from Yar-
row in 1851 at the instance of the Duke of Buccleuch,
Kirkhope is in the presbytery of Selkirk and synod of
Merse and Teviotdale ; the living is worth £310. The
church, at Ettrick-Bridge, was built in 1841, and con-
tains 300 sittings. Kirkhope public and the Duke of
Buccleuch's school, with respective accommodation for
107 and 30 children, had (1881) an average attendance
of 74 and 22, and grants of £82, 15s. and £34, 3s.
Valuation (1864) £6148, (1881) £9106. Pop. (1861)
555, (1871) 665, (1881) 5^7.— Ord. Sur., shs. 17, 16,
1864

KirkiboU. See Tongue.

Kirkibost, an island of North Uist parish. Outer
Hebrides, Inverness-shire, adjacent to the SW side of
North Uist Island, and insulated only at high water.
With a length of 1 mile, and inconsiderable breadth,
it chiefly consists of low laud, which, once fertile and
very productive, has .suffered much devastation by the
action of westerly gales. Pop. (1841) 25, (1861) 7, (1881)
12.

Kirkinner, a post-office village and a coast parish of
SE Wigtownshire. The village has a station on the
Wigtownshire railway, 2^ miles S by W of Wigtown.
It took its name from St Kenneir, a virgin who suffered
martyrdom at Cologne in 450.

The parish, since 1630 comprising the ancient parishes
of Kirkinner and Longcastle, is bounded NW by Kirk-
cowan, N by W^igtown, E by Wigtown Bay, S by Sorbie
and Glasserton, and W by Mochrum. Its utmost
length, from N to S, is 6^ miles ; its utmost breadth,
from E to W, exclusive of foreshore, is 5^ miles ; and
its area is 17,949^ acres, of which 2559 are foreshore
and 139^ water. Wigtown Bay extends here 2| miles
south-south-eastward, and, with a breadth at high
water of from 2§ to 3^ miles, at low water of from 1
furlong to 5 furlongs, at the efflux of the tide leaves on
the Kirkinner side a belt of dry sands nearly If mile
broad. The Bladenoch winds 6| miles east-by-south-
ward along all the northern border to its mouth near
the town of Wigtown ; and several streamlets traverse
the interior to either the Bladenoch or Wigtown Bay.
Dowalton Loch (llx5|^ furl.), at the meeting point
with Sorbie and Mochrum, was drained in 1862-63. A
belt of low carse ground, a mile or more in breadth, ex-
tends along Wigtown Bay ; and all the rest of the land
is a congeries of rising grounds, hillocks, and small
hills, with intervening hollows. The hills are gently
outlined, and mostly covered with rich verdure ; some
of them are embellished or crowned with plantation ;
aod the higher have elevations of only 200 or 300 feet
above sea-levnrl. The predominant rocks are Silurian,
greywacke chiefly and greywacke slate ; and they yield
but little good building material. The soil of the belt
of flat land in the E is rich alluvium ; of the other
lands is mostly gravelly, by nature thin, light, and un-
fertile, but so improved by art, as everywhere now to
exhibit a highly cultivated aspect. Tracts that were for-
428

KIRKINTILLOCH

merly covered with moss, and encumbered with granit j
boulders, have all been thoroughly reclaimed ; and now
not an acre can properly be called waste. Dairy-farm-
ing is a principal industry. The Rev. Andrew Symson,
author of A Large Description of Gallovjay, was minister
from 1663 to 1686. Antiquities, other than those of
Baldoon and Dowalton, are the site of a Caledonian
stone circle, vestiges of two circular camps, and the
rude egg-shaped 'Hole-stone' of Crows. Barnbarkoch,
also noticed separately, is the only mansion ; and 4 pro-
prietors hold each an annual value of more, 5 of less,
than £500. Kirkinner is in the presbytery of Wig-
town and synod of Galloway ; the living is worth £363.
The parish church, erected in 1828, is a handsome
edifice, with 600 sittings, a square tower, and an
ancient four-holed cross. Three public schools — Kirk-
inner, Longcastle, and Malzie — with respective accom-
modation for 132, 83, and 58 children, had (1881) an
average attendance of 119, 46, and 31, and grants of
£96, 14s., £35s, 4s. 9d., and £24, 15s. lid. Valuation
(1860) £13,588, (1883) £16,084, lis. 6d. Pop. (1801)
1160, (1841) 1769, (1861) 1716, (1871) 1548, (1881)
1597.— OrfZ. Sur., sh. 4, 1857.

Kirkintilloch, a town and a parish in the detached
district of Dumbartonshire. The town stands, 114 to
150 feet above sea-level, on the Forth and Clyde Canal,
on the Lenzie and Aberfoyle branch of the North
British railway, and on Luggie Water adjacent to its
influx to the Kelvin, by rail being 3^ miles SSE of
Lennoxtown, If N of Lenzie Junction, 6^ NNE of
Glasgow, and 42^ W of Edinburgh. It sprang from a
strong fort on Antoninus' Wall, and took thence the
Celtic name Cacrpentulach (' fort at the end of the
ridge') corrupted into Kirkintilloch. Crowning a rising
ground at the W end of the town, and commanding
the passage of Luggie Water, this fort was situated on
the N side of the wall ; enclosed an area of 90 by 80
yards ; and has left remains in the form of a flat oblong
mound, now called the Peel. Numerous Roman relics,
including a legionary stone, now preserved in the
Huuterian Museum of Glasgow University, another
stone with bold sculptures of bulls' heads, coins of
Domitian, Antoninus Pius, Commodus, and Constan-
tine, an amphora, etc., have been found on and near
the site of the fort ; and foundations of ancient build-
ings, with marks or accompaniments indicative of
Roman origin, have been discovered in the adjacent
grounds. The town was probably a place of some im-
portance, all onward from the Roman occupation ; and
in 1170 it was made a burgh of barony by a charter of
William the Lyon in favour of William de Comyn,
Baron of Lenzie and Lord of Cumbernauld. From his
descendant it passed, about 1306, to the great Fleming
family. Lords Fleming from 1460, and Earls of Wigtown
from 1606 to 1747 ; and from them it received renewals
or extension of its burgh rights. In 1672 William,
fifth Earl of Wigtown, built a three-arch bridge over
Luggie Water, described as ' maist necessary and useful
for the saife passage of all persons who travel from
Edenbro' and Stirling to Glasgow and Dumbarton ; ' in
1745 Kirkintilloch suffered severely from part of the
rebel army of Prince Charles Edward ; and in 1832
thirty-six of its townsfolk died of the Asiatic cholera,
this being the first place where the pest appeared in the
West of Scotland. From time immemorial it has
possessed two tracts of public property — the ' burgh
acres,' on which most of its streets are built ; and the
' Newland mailings,' extending into the country. A
castle, built by John Comyn about the beginning of the
14th century, appears to have been a structure of con-
siderable strength, but has utterly disappeared.

Dingy and irregularly built, the town exhibits
nothing worthy of its ancient importance, and looks to
have always been so absorbed in trade and manufacture
as almost to preclude attention to grace of architectural
order or beauty. The court liouse or town hall is an
old building with a steeple, and included a small ]irison,
closed in 1678. The parish church, erected in 1644, is
a cruciform old-fashioued structure, with crow-stepped-

KIRKINTILLOCH

fjables ; and, as repaired in 1840, contains 822 sittings.
St David's Established church, containing 1012 sittings,
was built as a chapel of ease in 1837 at a cost of £2300,
and in 1873 was raised to cptoad sacra status. Other
places of worship are St David's Free church (1843), St
Andrew's Free church (1871), a U. P. church (1855), a
United Original Secession church (1806), and the
Roman Catholic church of the Holy Family (1874).
Lairdsland public, Oswald public, Kerr Street, and a
Roman Catholic school, with respective accommodation
for 500, 369, 222, and 196 children, had (1881) an
average attendance of 350, 243, 184, and 105, and
grants of £283, 4s. 6d., £237, 13s. 8d., £156, 18s., and
£84, 17s.

Kirkintilloch has a post ofBce under Glasgow, with
money order, savings' bank, insurance, and telegraph
departments, branches of the National and Commercial
Banks, a National Security Savings' Bank, 13 insurance
agencies, 2 hotels, an agricultural association, a horti-
cultural society, a public cemetery, a Young Men's
Christian Association, a temperance hall, and fairs on
the second Tuesday of May and 20 Oct. It has
been lighted with gas since 1839 ; and in 1878 the gas-
works were purchased from the gas company by the
police commissioners for £14,000 ; whilst the Kirkintil-
loch and Lenzie "Waterworks were constructed in 1874 at
a cost of £14,000. They comprise a storage-tank of
180,000 gallons capacity ; but, this supply proving
insufficient, a new reservoir, holding 24,500,000 gallons,
was formed in 1882 at a cost of £3636. In 1881 a cast-
iron drinking-fountain, 12 feet higli, was presented to
the town by Bailie Wallace; and a new drainage system
was carried out in 1883. Employment is afforded
by 3 chemical works, 3 iron foundries, 2 steam saw-
mills, a power-loom factory, and the weaving of lappet
muslin. The burgh became independent of its baronial
euperior prior to the abolition of hereditar}' jurisdictions
(1747), and it possesses a jurisdiction similar to that of
royal burghs, being governed by a senior and a junior
magistrate, 8 councillors, a treasui'er, and a town clerk,
whilst under the General Police Act (1862) it has a
body of police commissioners, comprising a senior and
2 junior magistrates, 3 representatives from each of
four wards, a collector, a treasurer, and a clerk. A
police court is held weekly ; a sheriff small debt court
on the first Thursday of March, June, September, and
December ; and a justice of peace court on the first
Saturday of everv month. Valuation (1883) £26,173,
Is. 6d. Pop. (1791) 1536, (1828) 4172, (1851) 6342,
(1861) 6113, (1871) 6490, (1881) 8029, of whom 4205
were females, and 7352 were in the police burgh.
Houses (1881) 1686 inhabited, 125 vacant, 14 building.

The parish comprises the western part of the ancient
barony of Lenzie, commensurate with the entire de-
tached district of Dumbartonshire, and was parochially
separated from the eastern part of that barony in 1649.
It then assumed the name of Wester Lenzie, while the
eastern part took that of Easter Lenzie ; but shortly
afterwards the tAvo parts from the sit^s of the respective
churches changed their names to Kirkintilloch and
Cumbernauld. The parish, containing the village* of
Waterside, Tintock, and Twechar, with Lenzie Junction,
is bounded N by Campsie and Kil«yth in Stirlingshire,
E by Cumbernauld, SE by New Jtl'^ikland in Lanark-
shire, and S and W by Cadder, also in Lanarkshire.
Its i;tmost length, from E by N to W by S, is 5' miles ;
its breadth varies between I5 and 3| miles ; and its
area is 7226f acres, of which 81 are water. The river
Kelvin flows 5| miles west-south-westward along or
near to all the northern boundary ; Luggi'- Water first
runs If mile westward along the eastern part of the
southern boundary, then 4§ miles west-north-westward
through the interior, till it falls into the Kelvin at the
town ; and the Forth and Clyde Canal, in a line not
far from the Kelvin, traverses all the northern border.
All lying within the strath or broad dingle of Antoninus'
Wall and the Forth and Clyde Canal, the surface sinks
at the NW corner of the ])arish to 105 feet above sea-
level, and rises thence gently eastward and east-south-

KIRKLISTON

eastward to 234 feet near Oxgang, 338 near Gartshore
House, and 400 at Bar Hill. To the N it is sheltered
by the Kilsyth Hills, and it chiefly consists of north-
ward sloping plain, diversified mostly with waving
swells, but in Bar Hill presenting a steep and precipi-
tous craig. The rocks belong to the Limestone Car-
boniferous series, but are situated on the northern verge
of the great coal field of Lanarkshire, beyond the line of
the most valuable seams ; and, though including abund-
ance of sandstone, limestone, and ironstone, they yield
comparatively little coal. The soil, along the Kelvin,
is deep and marshy, liable to inundation ; on a small
tract in the NE corner is a light reddish earth on
a gravelly or trap rock bottom ; in the W, around the
town, is a light black loam, 16 or 18 inches deep, on a
reddish tilly subsoil ; in the southern and eastern dis-
tricts is a strong clay ; and in isolated small patches,
together comprising some 140 acres, is black peat-moss.
About 300 acres are under wood ; and of the remaining
area, though little is actually waste, one-half at most is
in regular tillage. Antoninus' Wall, extending along
the parish nearly in the line of the Forth and Clyde
Canal, had a fort upon Bar Hill, which, enclosing an
area of 150 square yards, and commanding a view of
almost the entire course of the wall from the Forth to
the Clyde, is still represented by some vestiges. Another
fort, now hardly traceable, at Auchendowie hamlet,
formed a rectangle of 150 j-ards by 70 ; and, as already
stated, a third at the town is still represented by con-
siderable remains. Gartshoke House is the chief
mansion ; and 5 proprietors hold each an annual value
of £500 and upwards, 36 of between £100 and £500, 48
of from £50 to £100, and 92 of from £20 to £50. In
the presbytery of Glasgow and synod of Glasgow and
Ayr, this parish is divided ecclesiastically among Kirk-
intilloch proper and the quoad sacra, parishes of Kirkin-
tilloch-St David's and Lenzie ; the first is a living
worth £428, the second £357, and the third £450.
Under the landward school board, two public schools,
Condorrat and Gartconner, with respective accommoda-
tion for 229 and 250 children, had (1881) an average
attendance of 88 and 120, and grants of £77, 19s. and
£81, 6s. Valuation (1860) £21,216, (1883) £29,987,
lis. Id. Pop. (1801) 3210, (1821) 4580, (1841) 8880,
(1861)8179, (1871) 8257, (1881) 10,591, of whom 5364
were in Kirkintilloch proper, 3787 in St David's, and
1440 in Lenzie.— Ord. Sur., sh. 31, 1867.

Kirkland, a village in AVemyss parish, Fife, on the
right bank of the Leven, 1^ mile W of Leven town. The
seat of a large flax-spinning mill, it has a public hall
constructed in 1875 out of an old schoolhouse, and
capable of accommodating 160 persons. Pop. (1861)
448, (1871) 355.

Kirkland, Lanarkshire. See Kirkfieldbank.

Kirkland, a mansion in Dairy parish, Ayrshire, J
mile W of Dairy town.

Kirkland, a hamlet in Kirkcudbright parish, 1| mile
SE of the town.

Kirklands, an estate, with a mansion, in Ancnim
parish, Roxburghshire, 7 furlongs WNW of the village.
The mansion, on a wooded height, overhanging Ale
AVater, was erected about 1830 after designs by Blore
of London ; and is a handsome edifice in the Tudor style.
Its owner. Col. Roland Richardson, Esq. (b. 1821 ; sue.
1864), holds 70 acres in the shire, valued at £188
annum. — Ord. Sur., sh. 17, 1864.

Kirkliston, a village in Linlithgowshire, and a parish
partly also in Edinburghshire. The village, occupying
a rising-ground on the left bank of Almond Water, has
a station on the Queensferry branch of the North
British, 1^ mile NNW of Ratho Junction, 3| miles S of
South Queensferry, and 10 W (by road only 8) of Edin-
burgh. It takes name from the parish church and
Liston Manor, being distinguished by the prefix ICirk
from Old Liston, New Liston, Over New Liston, Hal
Liston, and Illiston or High Liston, all in the same
parish. Some of its houses are good and modern, yet it
offers on tlie whole a poor appearance ; and has a post
office, with money order, savings' bank, and telegraph

429

KIRKLISTON

iepartments, an inn, ana a long established distillery.
A foot-bridge over the Almond was constructed in 1846
to give access to Ratho station, and is over 100 feet
long. The parish church, with 700 sittings, is very
ancient, having a fine S Norman doorway, and includ-
ing the old burying vault of the noble family of Stair,
with the ashes of the first countess, the 'Lady Ashton' of
Scott's Bride of Lammermoor. The Free church had a
spire added in 1880. Pop. (1841) 840, (1861) 572, (1871)
647, (1881) 747.

The parish, containing also "Winchburgh village in
Linlithgowshire and Newbridge hamlet in Edinburgh-
shire, includes a detached Edinburghshire section, called
Listonshiels, l}dng among the Pentland Hills at the
boundary with Peeblesshire, 4 miles SSW of Balerno
and 7f (as the crow flies) S of Kirkliston village. Its
church having once belonged to the Knights Templars,
it was anciently called Temple Liston. The main body
is bounded on the NW by Dalmeny (detached) and
Abereorn, N by Dalmeny, E by Cramond and Corstor-
phine, S by Ratho and Kirknewton, SW by Uphall,
and W by Ecclesmachan. Its utmost length, from E
to W, is 5 miles ; its utmost width is 4| miles ; and its
area is 7716J acres, of which 67 are water, and 5397
belong to Linlithgowshire. The Listonshiels or detached
section is bounded NE and N by Currie, E by Penicuik,
SE by Penicuik and Linton in Peeblesshire, and SW by
Midcalder. With an utmost length and breadth of 2^
and 2 miles, it has an area of 1892| acres. Almond
Water winds 6| miles north-eastward along all the
Midlothian boundary of the Linlithgowshire section,
which is traversed by Brox and Niddry Burns, two
aflluents of the Almond, whilst a third, Gogar Burn,
flows I mile north-north-eastward along all the Cramond
boundary. The Union Canal goes 2| miles across the
southern wing of the main body, and, after making a
detour through Uphall, proceeds 1§ mile northward
through the western part of the Linlithgowshire section.
Springs are abundant and not a little various, affording
ample supplies of pure water, and offering solutions of
magnesia, lime, and iron. The surface of all the main
body is a plain diversified with very gentle rising-
grounds, and, with altitudes ranging from 80 to 320 feet
above sea-level, everywhere, but specially along the
Almond, presents a pleasing appeai-ance. The Liston-
shiels section has a southward ascent from 900 to 1750
feet above sea-level, and is drained by head-streams of
Bavelaw Burn to the Water of Leith. The rocks
belong to the Calciferous Sandstone series of the Car-
boniferous formation, with intersections of basalt, trap
tufi", and diorite ; and include sandstone, limestone,
ironstone, bituminous shale, and whiustone, all of
economical value. A beautiful durable sandstone is
quarried on Humbie farm, and furnished the material
for the Glasgow new Exchange. The soil here and
there is very wet clay, on some haughs is light earth or
deep sand, and elsewhere varies from a strong clay to a
rich black mould. But a small proportion of the parish
is under wood, nearly all the remainder being in a state of
high cultivation. Prof. Andrew Dalzell, F.R.S. (1742-
1806), the eminent scholar, was a native. A field SW
of the village of Kirkliston is pointed out as the spot
where Edward I. of England encamped on his way to
Falkirk (1298) ; and near some large stones in a field by
Newbridge, stone coffins, spear heads, and other relies
of some ancient battle have been found. A prominent
object is the stupendous viaduct of the Edinburgh and
Glasgow section of the North British railway over the
Almond ; and the chief antiquities are the Catstane,
Illiston or Eliston Castle, and Niddry Castle. These
are all noticed separately ; as also are the chief man-
sions, Newliston, Clifton Hall, Fox Hall, and Ingliston.
Nine proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and
upwards, 4 of between £100 and £500, 2 of from £50 to
£100, and 12 of from £20 to £50. Kirkliston is in the
presbytery of Linlithgow and synod of Lothian and
Tweeddale ; the living is worth £473. Kirkliston, Nell-
field, and Winchburgh public schools, with respective
accommodation for 323, 62, and 108 children, had (1881)
430

KIKKMABRECK

an average attendance of 207, 36, and 34, and grants ot
£170, Is., £40, lis., and £15, 4s. 8d. Valuation (1860)
£16,811, (1882) £28,301, of which £6251 was in Edin-
burghshire. Pop. (1801) 1647, (1831) 2265, (1861) 1917,
(1871) 2187, (1881) 2580, of whom 1984 were in Linlith-
gowshire.—Orrf. Sur., sh. 32, 1857.

Kirkmabreck, a parish of SW Kirkcudbrightshire, con-
taining the seaport town and station of Creetowx, and
comprising since 1636 the ancient parish of Kirkmabreck,
with the greater part of that of Kirkdale. It is bounded
NW by Minnigatf, NE by Girthon, E by Anwoth, and
SW and AV by Wigtown Bay and the estuary of the
Cree. Its utmost length, from N to S, is 10 miles ; its
utmost breadth, from E to W, is 6| miles ; and its
area is 25,011^ acres, of which 1659 are foreshore, 128J
links, and 192| water. From the Palnure's confluence
to Creetown ferry, the Cree curves 3 miles south-south-
eastward, at the ferry having a high-water width of 5J
furlongs, which broadens to 3^ miles in sandy Wigtovs^n
Bay. Palnure Burn winds If mile south-south-west-
ward along the Minnigaff border to the Cree ; Graddock
Burn runs 5 miles south-westward along the same
boundary to Palnure Burn ; Carrouch Burn and Big
Water of Fi-eet run 5| miles south-south-eastward along
the boundary with Girthon ; and Skyre Burn runs 2^
miles south -by-eastward along that with Anwoth ; whilst
Moneypool Burn, flowing 6| miles south-westward to the
Cree's estuary at Creetown, is one out of several streams
that drain the interior. Chalybeate springs are at
Pibble, Muirfad, Cuil, Falbae, Ferryburn, Blackmire,
and other places ; and that at Pibble has enjoyed some
medicinal repute. The coast, with an extent below
Creetown of 5| miles, is mostly flat and sandy, but
towards the south-eastern extremity becomes rock)',
bold, high, and precipitous, and there is torn with
fissures and pierced with caverns, some of them offering
romantic features, and one at Ravenshall Point bearing
the name of ' Dii'k Hatteraick's Cave. ' The immediate
seaboard is low and richly embellished ; but all the
interior is a congeries of hills and mountains, intersected
with vales and hollows. Chief elevations, from S to N,
are Barholm Hill (1163 feet) and Cairnharrow(1497) on
the Anwoth border, Larg Hill (969), Cambret Hill (1150),
Cairn.smoee of Fleet (2152), and Meikle Multaggart
(2000). The uplands, rising in successive ridges, are
partly green and partly clothed with a mixture of heath
and verdure ; present, with their intersecting hollows, a
series of interesting landscapes ; and, whilst forming a
noble horizon to the views from the seaboard, command
from their summits extensive and magnificent views
over much of Galloway, over part of England, and across
to Ireland and the Isle of Man. The rocks are variously
granitic, metamorphic, and Silurian. A granite quarry,
1^ mile S by E of Creetown, has been largely woi'ked
since 1830 by the Mersey Harbour Company for the con-
struction of the Liverpool docks ; a second, at Bagbie,
If mile further SSE, has been worked since 1864 by
another Liverpool company ; and a third, on Fell farm,
near the crown of the hill at whose base is the first, is
worked by a Glasgow company, and has connection with
a recently erected establishment for polishing granite.
Lead ore occurs at Blairwood, Drumore, Glen, and
Mark ; fine specimens of galena have been found in
Moneypool ; and a copper mine was opened about 1835
at Craigneuk, but did not succeed. The soil is alluvial
along the Cree ; and elsewhere is mostly gravelly or
moorish, and much encumbered with granite boulders.
About 5300 acres are under the plough, and some 900
are meadow. Antiquities other than those noticed
under Cairnholy, Glenquicken, Barholii, and Cars-
LUiTH are Caledonian stone circles, the site of the large
tumulus of Cairnywanie, the ivy-clad ruins of Kirkma-
breck old church, vestiges of Kirkdale church, and the
site of Kilbride chapel. Dr Thomas Brown (1778-1820),
professor of moral philosophy in Edinburgh University,
was born at the manse ; and another native was Samuel
Douglas (d. 1799), the founder of Douglas Academy in
Newton-Stewart. The Rev. Patrick Peacock, a dis-
tinguished sufferer in the cause of the Solemn League

KIRKMADEINE

and Covenant, was for some time minister ; and Major
M'Culloch, beheaded at Edinburgh in 1666, was pro-
prietor of the estate of Barholm. Mansions, noticed
separately, are Barholm, Cassencarrie, and Kirkdale ;
and 7 proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and
upwards, 3 of between £100 and £500, 6 of from £50 to
£100, and 7 of from £20 to £50. Kirkmabreck is in the
presbytery of "Wigtown and synod of Galloway ; the
living is worth £333. The parish church and a U.P.
church are noticed under Creetown ; and three public
schools — Creetown, Kirkdale, and Kirkmabreck — with
respective accommodation for 63, 70, and 165 children,
had (1881) an average attendance of 53, 44, and 119,
and grants of £31, lis. , £33, lis. , and £83, 14s. Valua-
tion (1860) £7563, (1883) £11,919, Is. 7d. Pop. (1801)
1212, (1841; 1854, (1861) 1851, (1871) 1568, (1881) 1834.
—Orel. Siir., sh. 4, 1857.

Kirkmadrine, an ancient parish in "Wigtownshire,
since the middle of the 17th century forming the
eastern district of Sorbie parish. Its church, on
Penkiln farm, 7 furlongs N by W of Garliestown, is still
represented there by some ruins and the buiying-ground.
—Orel Sur., sh. 4, 1857.

Kirkmadrine, a small ruined chapel in Stoneykirk
parish, SW Wigtownshire, 2 miles S"W of Sandhead
village. The gateposts of its graveyard are two
sculptured stones, figured in Dr John Stuart's Sculptured
Stones of Scotland. — Oi'd. Sur., sh. 3, 1856.

Kirkmahoe, a hamlet and a parish in Nithsdale,
Dumfriesshire. The hamlet stands, 45 feet above sea-
level, near the left bank of Duncow Burn, 1 mile E of
the Nith, and 4 miles N of Dumfries, under which it
has a post office.

The parish, containing also the villages of Dal-
swiNTON and Duncow, and including the ancient
chapelry of Kilblane, is bounded NW by Closeburn,
NE by Closeburn and Kirkmichael, E by Tinwald, SE
by Dumfries, SW by Holywood, and W by Duuscore
and Keir. Rudely resembling a kite in outline, it has
an utmost length, from N by AV to S by E, of 8 miles ;
an utmost breadth, from E to W, of 4§ miles ; and an
area of 12,699| acres, of which 147^ are water. The
NiTH sweeps 71 miles south-south-eastward along or
close to all the western and south-western boundary ;
Park Burn, a head-stream of Lochar Water, runs 4|-
miles south-by-eastward along most of the Tinwald
border ; Goukstane Burn and the Water of Ae trace
most of the north-eastern boundary ; and the interior
is drained to one or other of these streams by a number
of pretty rivulets, of which Duncow Burn, rising just
within Closeburn, I'uus 8 miles south-by-eastward till it
falls into the Nith at a point 3 miles N by W of Dura-
fries. The portion of the parish S of Duncow village is
all of it low and nearly flat, sinking to 40, and nowhere
exceeding 138, feet above sea-level ; but northward the
surface rises gradually to 704 feet at Dalsw^nton Wood,
693 at Duncow Common, 883 at Whitestanes Moor, and
984 at Auchengeith Moor — heights that command a
magnificent view of the Nith's lower basin and across
the Solway Firth to the Cumberland mountains. Old
Red sandstone prevails in the S, greywacke in the N ;
and the soil along the Nith is rich alluvium, on the
sloping ground and braes is sandy or gravelly, and on
much of the high grounds is moss 6 inches deep, incum-
bent on a bed of earthy gravel. Two-thirds or so of the
entire area are in tillage, woods cover nearly 600 acres,
and the rest is either pastoral or waste. The antiquities
include tumuli, circular moats, and vestiges of hill-
forts. Mansions, noticed separately, are CAiiXSALLOCH,
Dalswinton, and Milxhead ; and 4 proprietors hold
each an annual value of £500 and upwards, 15 of be-
tween £100 and £500, 9 of from £50 to £100, and 6
of from £20 to £50. Kirkmahoe is in the presbytery
and synod of Dumfries ; the living is worth £332.
The parish church, at Kirkmahoe hamlet, is a neat
and commodious Gothic building of 1822, with a pin-
nacled tower. There is also a Free church ; and two
public schools, Dalswinton and Duncow, with respective
accommodation for 65 and 140 children, had (1881) an

KIRKMAY

average attendance of 49 and 65, and grants of £33, 12s.
and £51, lis. Valuation (1860) £10,824, (1883)
£13,092, Is. Pop. (1801) 1315, (1831) 1601, (1861)
1462, (1871) 1332, (1881) 1250.— Ord Sur., shs. 9, 10,
1863-64.

Kirkmaiden, a parish in the southern extremity of
Rhiuns district, SW Wigtownshire, containing the post-
office villages of Drumore and Port Logan, the former
17^ miles S by E of Stranraer. As including the
southernmost point of Scotland, it is mentioned, con-
jointly with John o' Groat's House, in Burns's phrase,
'Frae Maiden Kirk to John o' Groat's,' to indicate the
extremities of the Scottish mainland. It is bounded N
by Stoneykirk, E by Luce Bay, and SW and W by the
Irish Sea ; and it extends southward in a peninsular
strip that terminates in the Mull of Galloway. Its
utmost length, from N by W to S by E, is 9^ miles ;
its breadth varies between If and 4§ miles ; and its
area is 14,566|- acres, of which 836f are foreshore. The
Mull of Galloway (228 feet) and its lighthouse having
been separately noticed, it remains to say that the
south-western and western coast is mostly bold and
rocky, rising steeply to 400 feet at LaggantuUoch Head,
205 at Cairnywellan Head, and 214 at the Mull of
Logan, and indented by Clanyard and Poet Logax
or Nessock Bays. It has numerous fissures and caves,
many of the latter with small opening but roomy in-
terior ; and it off"ers very trivial aggi-egate of foreshore.
The E coast is mostly low, and, with the exception of
Killiness Point, presents from end to end a slightly
waving outline. The interior is mainly a congeries of
low hills, and attains 325 feet above sea-level at Bere-
hill, 286 at the church, 507 at Barncorkrie Moor, 525
at West Muntloch, and 522 at Dunman. Eruptive
and Silurian rocks are predominant, and slate was for
some time largely worked in several quarries. Much of
the soil is of a character to require artificial draining.
AVood covers about 270 acres ; some 1700 are rocky moor
or moss ; rather more than one-half of the entire area is
pasture ; and the rest is in cultivation. Antiquities,
other than those noticed under Castle-Clanyard,
Crammag, Drumore, Dunman, the Mull of Gallo-
way, and Logan, are vestiges of several Caledonian or
mediaeval strongholds, sites or traces of five pre-Refor-
mation chapels, and Auchness Castle, a quaint square
gabled tower, now a farmhouse. Logan House, noticed
separately, is the only mansion ; and James M'Douall,
Esq., is the chief proprietor, 2 others holding an annual
value of £500 and upwards, and 6 of from £20 to £50.
Kirkmaiden is in the presbytery of Stranraer and synod
of Galloway ; the living is worth £181. The parish
church, 1 mile E of Drumore, was built in 1638,
and contains 275 sittings ; its bell, bearing date
1534, is said to have once been the dinner-bell
of Castle-Clanyard. The ancient church, the cave
near the Mull of Galloway, was dedicated to St Medana,
identical probably with St Monenna or Moduenna,
whose death is placed in 519, and who, consecrated a
virgin by St Patrick, is said to have crossed from Ire-
land to Scotland, where she founded many churches,
three of them in Galloway (Skene's Celtic Scotland, ii.
37, 1877). A Free church stands 4 mile NNW of
Drumore ; and three public schools — Central, Northern,
and Southern — with respective accommodation for 230,
180, and 85 children, had (1881) an average attendance
of 134, 84, and 65, and grants of £127, 8s., £74, 5s., and
£54, 13s. Valuation (1860) £9380, (1883) £14,492, 10s.
Pop. (1801) 1613, (1831) 2051, (1861)2333, (1871) 2507,
(1881) 2U6.—Ord. Sur., sh. 1, 1856.

Kirkmaiden, a small pre-Reformation parish of SE
Wigtownshire, long incorporated with Glasserton. Its
roofless church, romantically situated by the shore, not
far from Monreith, is the scene of many a weird ghost
story.

Kirkmay, a large and handsome mansion of 1817 in
Crail parish, Fife, ^ mile W by S of Crail town. Its
owner, Robert Duncan, Esq., holds 213 acres in the
shire, valued at £1215 per annum.— 0/-(^. Sur., sh. 41,
1857.

431

KIRKMICHAEL

Kirkmlchael, a village and a parish in Carrick dis-
trict, Ayrshire. The village stands, 176 feet above sea-
level, on DjTock Burn, 3 miles E by S of Maybole,
under which it has a post office. The environs are
pleasant ; and the place itself presents a neat, agreeable
appearance, with little gardens attached to its houses,
and with interspersions of trees. Pop. (1861) 463,
(1871) 372, (1881) 343.

The parish, containing also the village of Crossbill,
is bounded N by Dalrjonple, E by Straiton, S by Dailly,
SW by Kirkoswald, and W by Maybole. Its utmost
length, from N to S, is 8J miles ; its breadth varies
between 5 furlongs and 5J miles ; and its area is
16,114§ acres, of which 185 are water. The river
DooN winds 6i miles westward along all the northern
boundary ; Girvax "Water, after running 6^ furlongs
northward along the eastern boundary, meanders 4|
miles west-by-southward through the interior, and next
flows 2| miles south -south-westward along the Straiton
and Kirkoswald border ; and Dyrock Burn, issuing from
Shankston Loch, runs 5^ miles west-south-westward
along the eastern boundary, and through the interior,
till it falls into Girvan Water, 1 mile below Kirkmichael
village. On the eastern border lie triangular Loch
Spallander (3x2 furh) and Shankston Loch (2J x 1
furl. ) ; and near the latter are Barnsham Loch (3x1
furl.) and Loch Crom (l|xf furl.). Along the Doon
the surface declines to 140, along Girvan Water to 93,
feet above sea-level ; and, from N to S, it attains 629
feet at Lochhill near Shankston Loch, 642 near Guiltree-
hill, 711 at Glenside Hill near Loch Spallander, and
1406 at Glenalla Fell. The predominant rocks are
igneous and Devonian. Sandstone has been quarried,
>and limestone largely worked ; but coal has been sought
for without success, and lead ore is only supposed to
exist in one of the hills. The soil, on some lands ad-
jacent to the streams, is a rich sharp mould ; on other
low lands is of a clayey nature, inclining to loam on
slopes ; of some of the lower hills is light and gravelly ;
and on the higher uplands is a thin turf on a shingly
bottom. A large proportion of the land is in a state
of high cultivation, and nearly 1200 acres are under
wood. There are traces of two ancient circular forts
on Guiltreehill Farm, and of three others at Deanston,
Cassanton, and Castle-Downans ; and ruins of a pre-
Eeformation chapel existed, till a recent period, on
Lindsayston Farm. Kirkmichael House, 3 furlongs S of
Kirkmichael village, is a large fine mansion, with beauti-
ful pleasure-grounds ; its owner, John Shaw-Kennedy,
Esq. (b. 1826 ; sue. 1877), holds 1689 acres in the
shire, valued at £2601 per annum. Other mansions,
noticed separately, are Cassillis House and Gloncaied
Castle ; and the property is mostly divided among eight.
Giving off a large piece to the quoad sacra parish of
Crossbill, and a fragment to that of Patna, Kirkmichael
is in the presbytery of Ayr and synod of Glasgow and
Ayr ; the living is worth £298. The parish church, at
the NE end of Kirkmichael village, was built in 1787,
and contains 660 sittings ; its picturesque graveyard is
surrounded by large old ash trees. The public school,
with accommodation for 148 children, had (1881) an
average attendance of 93, and a grant of £68, 10s.
Valuation (1860) £12,769, (1883) £16,407, 7s. 2d.
Pop. (1801) 1119, (1831) 2758, (1861) 2823, (1371)
2254, (1881) 1989, of whom 969 were in the ecclesiasti-
cal parish.— 0;-rf. Sur., sh. 14, 1863.

Kirkmichael, an Annandale parish of N Dumfries-
shire, whose church stands, 390 feet above sea-level,
near the left bank of the Water of Ae, 3J miles NW of
Shieldhill station, 4J N of Amisfield station, and 9 N
by E of the post-town, Dumfries. Comprising the
ancient parish of Kirkmichael and the larger yjart of
Garvald, it is bounded N by Kirkpatrick-Juxta, NE and
E by Johnstone, SE by Lochmaben, S by Tiuwald, SW
by Kirkmahoe, and W by Closeburn. Its utmost
length, from NNW to SSE, is 9J miles ; its utmost
breadtii is 5 miles; and its area is 17,130f acres, of
which 148 are water. The AVater of Ae, from a point
within H mile of its source upon Queensl)erry Hill to
432

KIRKMICHAEL

a point only 3 furlongs from its confluence with Kinnel
AVater, hurries 12| miles south-south-eastward on or
near to all the western, south-western, southern, and
south-eastern border; Kinnel Water itself, over a dis-
tance of 2J miles to a point 5| furlongs above the influx
of the Ae, roughly traces part of the boundary with
Johnstone ; and GLENKiLLand Garvald Burns, running
6f and 7^ miles through the interior southward to the
Ae, divide the parish into three pretty equal portions.
In the SE is Cumrue Loch (1 x § furl. ), as large again till
it was reduced by drainage ; and in the N", near the
Martyr's Stone, a still smaller but very deep tarn lies at
an altitude of 1160 feet. The SE coi'uer of the parish
is a level tract, declining to 170 feet above the sea;
beyond, the surface rises north-north-westward to 324
feet at Nether Garvald, 546 at Carrick, 896 at Kirk-
michael Fell, 1183 at Kirklaud Hill, 1201 at Kirk Hill,
and 1307 at Holehouse Hill. Red sandstone pre-
dominates in the plains, and has been worked ; alum
slate, interspersed with iron pyrites, occurs in the SW ;
and Silurian rocks prevail throughout the hills. The
soil along the lower reaches of the Ae and the Kinnel
is very fertile alluvium ; in patches amounting to over
500 acres, is mossy ; and in the middle districts, is
mostly dry and gravelly, but partly moorish and
heathy. Rather more than one-third of \he entire
area is either meadow or arable land ; woods cover
some 350 acres ; and the rest of the parish is chiefly
sheep pasture. Antiquities are vestiges of numerous
Caledonian forts and camps ; traces of part of the Roman
road from Cumberland to Clydesdale ; and remains of
a Roman castellum in the manse garden, of Glenae
Tower, of Garvald church, and of Wallace's House or
Tower, ^ mile NW of the last. This the patriot is
said to have garrisoned with sixteen men, whilst he
was meditating the capture of Lochmaben Castle (1297) ;
and a large stone, called the 'Sax Corses,' 2 miles ENE
of the church, marks the grave of the Englishman, Sir
Hugh de Moreland, and his followers, who fell in an
encounter with Sir William. Blue Cairn, too, at the
northern boundary, on the SE slope of Queensberry, is
the traditional site of Wallace's victory over Greystock,
Sir Hugh's companion in arms, who was slain with
most of his 300 followers. Kirkmichael House, 1^
mile ESE of the church and 6 miles WNW of Loch-
maben, is a handsome Tudor edifice of 1833, with finely
wooded grounds and two artificial sheets of water ; its
owner, John Stewart Lyon, Esq. (b. 1S68; sue. 1881),
holds 2994 acres in the shire, valued at £2522 per annum.
The Duke of Buccleuch is a larger proprietor, and 5
lesser ones hold each an annual value of between £100
and £ 500. Kirkmichael is in the presbytery of Loch-
maben and synod of Dumfries ; the living is worth
£358. The parish church, built in 1815, contains over
500 sittings. There is also a Free church ; and two
public schools, Garvald and Nethermill, with respective
accommodation for 56 and 100 children, had (1881) an
average attendance of 48 and 72, and grants of £45, lis.
and £57, 13s. Valuation (1860) £7506, (1883) £9660,
Is. lOd. Pop. (1801) 904, (1831) 1226, (1861) 1026,
(1871) 903, (1881) 8i9.—Ord. Sur., sh. 10, 1864.

Kirkmichael, a village and a parish of NE Perthshire.
The village stands upon Airdle Water, 705 feet above
sea-level, and 14 miles NNW of Blairgowrie, under
which it has a post office. A handsome bridge, built
here across the Airdle in 1842, was greatly damaged by
the flood of 1847, but afterwards repaired.

The parish, containing also Spittal of Glenshee, is
bounded N by Crathie in Aberdeenshire, E by Glenisla
and Alyth in Forfarshire, SE by detached sections of
Rattray, Caputh, and Bendochy, S by Blairgowrie (de-
tached) and Clunie, SW by Logierait and Dunkeld-
Dowally (detached), W by Moulin, and NW by Blair
Atholc. Its utmost length, from NNW to SSE, is 16^
miles ; it breadth varies between 4^ and lOg miles ; and
its area is 57,558§ acres, of which 2755 are water.
Airdle Water, entering from Moidin, winds 7^^ miles
south-south-eastward, till it passes oil' below Ballintuim
House on its way to a confluence with the Shee or Black

KIRKMICHAEL

KIRKMICHAEL

"Water, which, gathering its head-streams at Spittal of
Glenshee (1125 feet), has here a south-south-easterly
course of 10 miles near to or along the eastern border.
One of its head-streams issues from Loch nan Eun
(3| X If furl. ; 2550 feet), lying close to the Aberdeen-
shire boundarj' ; and one of its affluents is fed from
Loch Shechernich (4 x If furl. ; 1350 feet), close to
the Forfarshire boundary. Along the Airdle the sur-
face declines to 570, along the Black "Water to 780, feet
above sea-level ; and thence it rises to *Knock of Bal-
myle (1458 feet), *Creag nam J\Iial (1843), Creag a'
Mhadaidh (1474), *Creag Dhubh (2082), Lamh Dearg
(1879), Meall Uaine (2600), *Meall a' Choire Bhuidhe
(2846), Carn an Daimh (2449), *Monamenach (2649),
Ben Ghulbhuinx (2641), *Creag Leacach (3238), Carn
Mor (2846), *Cairnwell (3059), *Beinn lutharn Bheag
(3011), ami *Glas Thulachan (3445), where asterisks
mark those summits that culminate on or close to the
confines of the parish. The Airdle's narrow vale, some
patches along the Black Water, and a belt of territory
extending from the Airdle at Kirkmichael village east-
ward to the Black Water, are low comparatively and
mostly under cultivation ; but nearly all the rest of the
surface is lofty upland, chiefly mountainous, a portion
of the Central Grampians. The rocks are mostly meta-
morphic, and one or two out of many copious springs
are medicinal, believed to be anti-scorbutic. The soil of
the low grounds along the streams is thin and dry, on a
sandy bottom ; that on the higher arable grounds is wet
and spongy, requiring a dry warm season to render it
productive. Little more than one-twelfth of the entire
area is iu tillage ; about 750 acres are under wood ; and
the rest is either pastoral or waste. A rocking-stone,
34- miles SE of Kirkmichael village, is estimated to
weigh 3 tons ; and near it are four concentric stone
circles. To the W are several standing stones, vestiges
of eight or more other stone circles, and a cairn 270 feet
in circumference and 25 high, surrounded at a little
distance, and at different intei-vals, with a number of
smaller cairns in groups of eight or ten. Ashintully,
KiXDROGAX, and Woodhill, noticed separately, are the
chief mansions. Including all Glenshee quoad sacra
parish and a portion of Persie, Kirkmichael is in the
presbytery of Dunkeld and synod of Perth and Stirling ;
the living is worth £1SS. The parish church, at Kirk-
michael village, was built in 1791, and contains 596
sittings. There is also a Free church ; and three public
schools — Ballintuim, Glenshee, and Kirkmichael — with
respective accommodation for 64, 47, and 130 children,
had (1881) an average attendance of 28, 25, and 58, and
grants of £37, Is., £38, 7s. 6d., and £62, 17s. Valua-
tion (1860) £12,588, (1883) £16,754, 4s. lid. Pop.
(1801) 1563, (1831) 1568, (1861) 1224, (1871)965, (1881)
849, of whom 293 were Gaelic-speaking, and 568 be-
longed to Kirkmichael ecclesiastical parish. — Ord. Sur,,
shs. 56, 65, 55, 64, 1869-74.

Kirkmichael, a parish of S Banffshire, containing the
village of Tomixtoul, 14| miles S of Ballindalloch
station, this being 12 miles NE of Grantown and 12
SW of Craigellachie. It is bounded NE bv Inveraven,
E, SE, and S by Tarland (detached), Strathdon, and
Crathie in Aberdeenshire, W by Abernethy iu Inverness-
shire, and NW by Cromdale in Elginshire. Its utmost
length, from N by W to S by E, is 17g miles ; its
width, from E to W, varies between 2 and llj miles ;
and its area is 76,331 acres, of which 380^ are water.
The pellucid AvEX, issuing from lone Loch Aven (13 x 1|
furl. ; 2250 feet), winds 12 miles east-north-eastward
and 16§ miles northward along Glexavex, till it passes
off into Inveraven parish. During this course it is
joined by Builg Burn, flowing 2^ miles north-by-west-
ward out of Loch Builg (6 X 2 furl. ; 1586 feet) at the
Aberdeenshire border ; by the Water of Caiplaich or
Ailnack, running 6| miles north-eastward along the
Abernethy border, then 3:| north-north-eastward across
the interior ; by Coxglass Water, running 8 miles
north-westward through the eastei'n interior ; by the
Bum of Brown or Lochy, running 4 miles northward
along the Abernethy boundary, then 2 north-north-

eastward across the interior ; and by thirty-four lesser
tributaries. The surface, sinking along the Aven to
698 feet above sea-level, is everywhere hilly or grandly
mountainous, the chief elevations to the E of that river,
as one ascends it, being Carn na Dalacli (1352 feet), *Carn
Daimh (1866), Cnoc Lochv (15-:8), Tom na Bat (1723),
*Carn Liath (2598), *Carn Ealasaid (2600), Liath Bheinn
(2183), *ileikle Geal Charn (2633), Meall na Gaineimh
(2989), *Bex Avex (3843), *Bexabourd (3924), and
*Ben Macdhui (4296) ; to the W, *Caru Eachie (2329),
Cnoc Forgan (1573), Cam Meadhonach (1928), Big
Garabhoum (2431), *Caiplich (3574), and *Cairxgorm
itself (4084), where asterisks mark those summits that
culminate on the confines of the parish. The southern
district, thus lying all among the Cairngorm Grampians,
is wholly uninhabited. The northern, mainly consisting
of ranges of mountains and congeries of hills, presents
for the most part a moorish, desolate, forbidding aspect,
and is inhabited only along the banks of the lower
reaches of the Aven and of the Aven's principal tribu-
taries. Granite is the prevailing rock of the mountains ;
sandstone occurs round Tomintoul ; excellent gi'ey slates
and pavement slabs are quarried on the banks of the
Aven ; limestone abounds in many parts ; and ironstone
of rich quality has been mined near the source of Conglass
Water. The soil of a considerable portion of the arable
land is fertile alluvium ; that of most of the rest is a
rich loam. A good deal of natural wood is dotted along
the valley of the Aven ; not more than between 2000 and
3000 acres are iu tillage ; and all the rest is pastoral waste
or deer-forest. The Duke of Richmond and Gordon
owns nearly nine-tentlis of the parish, 1 other proprietor
holding an annual value of more, and 2 of less, than
£100. Giving off the quoad sacra parish of Tomintoul,
Kirkmichael is in the presbytery of Abernethy and
synod of Moray ; the living is worth £302. The parish
church, 4 miles NNW of Tomintoul, was built in 1807,
and contains 350 sittings. There is also a Free church ;
and Kirkmichael jiublic, Tomintoul public, and Tomin-
toul Roman Catholic schools, with respective accommo-
dation for 70, 141, and 200 children, had (1881) an
average attendance of 22, 76, and 45, and grants ot
£55, 2s., £76, 8s., and £34, 8s. 6d. Valuation (1843)
£3325, (1881) £6215. Pop. (1801) 1332, (1831) 1741,
(1861) 1511, (1871) 1276, (1881) 1073, of whom 260
were Gaelic-speaking, and 387 were in the ecclesiastical
parish. — Ord. Sur., sh. 75, 1876.

Kirkmichael or Resolis, a parish of Ross-shire and
Cromartyshire, which, containing the villages of Gor-
don's Mills and Jemimaville, lies in the NW of the
Black Isle, and comprises the ancient parishes of Kirk-
michael and CuLLicuDDEX. Its church stands 7 miles
WSW of Cromarty, and 3 SW of the post-town and
station, Invergorden. It is bounded NW, N, and NE
by the Cromarty Firth, E and SE by Cromarty, SE by
Rosemarkie and Avoch, and SW by Urquhart. Its
utmost length, from NE to SW, is 6| miles ; its utmost
breadth is 3f miles ; and its area is 12,449 acres. The
coast-line, 9| miles in extent, has a gravelly shore,
interspersed with low flat rocks ; and.from it the surface
rises to 397 feet at Kilbeachie Wood, 231 at the Bog of
CuUicuddeu, and 838 at the highest point of broad-
based Ardmeaxach or Slullbuie, on the SE boundary.
The interior, however, is intersected by a valley, which,
extending north-eastward nearly from end to end of the
parish, contains by far the greater part of its arable
land, and is traversed by the Burn of Resolis to the
Cromarty Firth at Gordon's ilills. Old Red sandstone,
varying in hue from red to a deep yellow, is the pre-
vailing rock, and has been quarried, although it is
mainly of inferior quality for building purposes. The
soil, for the most part a light black loam on a hard
tilly bottom, along the north-western shore is sharper
and more productive ; but almost everywliere requires
laborious tillage and careful husbandry. Some tracts
are embellished with plantations or natural wood, but
most parts are bare or moorish. The chief antiquities
are numerous tumuli on the moors, traces of ancient
camps, the fragmentary ruin of Castlecraig, and the

433

KIRKMIEN

remains of old Kirkmichael church, graphically described
by Hugh IMiller. Alansions, both noticed separately,
are Newhall and Poyntzfield ; and 2 proprietors hold
each an annual value of more, 7 of less, than £500.
Kirkmichael is in the presbytery of Chanonry and synod
of Ross ; the living is worth £365. The parish church,
built in 1830, is amply commodious. There is also a
Free church ; and two new public schools, Cullicudden
and Xewhall, each with accommodation for 123 children,
had (1881) an average attendance of 64 and 76, and
grants of £53, lis. and £67, 15s. Valuation (1860)
£4782, (1881) £6491. Pop. (1831) 1470, (1861) 1568,
(1871) 1527, (1881) 1424, of whom 601 were Gaelic-
speaking.— Orrf. Sitr., shs. 94, 93, S3, 84, 1876-81.

Kirkmien or Kilmein Hill. See Dalrymple.

Kirkmuirhill, a collier village in Lesmahagow parish,
Lanarkshire, 5 furlongs from the left bank of the
Nethan, 2| miles NNW of Abbeygreen, and 3| SE of
Stonehouse. It has a post office, with money order,
savings' bank, and telegraph departments, a school,
and a U.P. church. Pop. (1861) 371, (1871) 501,
(1881) 547.— Orel. Sur., sh. 23, 1865.

Kirkness House, a mansion in Portmoak parish,
Kinross-shire, 1 mile SE of the south-eastern extremity
of Loch Leven, and 4 miles N of Lochgelly.

Kirknewton, a village and a parish of W Edinburgh-
shire. The village stands 5 furlongs E by S of Mid-
calder or Kirknewton Junction on the Caledonian rail-
way, this being 36^ miles E of Glasgow, and 11 WSW
of Edinburgh. It has a post office, an inn, and a
police station. Pop. (1861) 318, (1871) 383, (1881) 368.

The parish, containing also the villages of East Calder,
Oakbank, and Wilkieston, comprises the ancient parishes
of Kirknewton and East Calder. It is bounded NW by
Uphall in Linlithgowshire, N by Kirkliston and Ratho,
E by Ratho and Currie, and S and W by Midcalder. Its
utmost length, from NNE to WSW, is 6f miles ; its ut-
most breadth, from E to W, is 3| miles ; and its area is
9491^ acres, of which 14^ are water. The river Al-
mond winds 9 furlongs north-eastward along all the
Linlithgowshire border ; Linhouse Water, in a run of
5 J miles, traces all the western boundary to the Almond ;
the Water of Leith for 3 miles traces the southern part
of the eastern boundary ; and three head-streams of
Gogar Burn rise in the interior, and drain the north-
eastern district, one of them, over a distance of 2 miles,
tracing the northern part of the eastern boundary. In
the extreme N the surface declines to close on 200 feet
above sea-level, and thence it rises gradually southward
to 500 feet near Kirknewton village, 700 near Lyden,
and 1000 at Corston Hill ; the southern district, which
comprises nearly one-half of the entire area, lying near
the Pentlands, but being neither mountainous nor rocky,
and consisting largely of excellent sheep pasturage. The
northern district is gently diversified champaign, and
exhibits a highly cultivated surface, gemmed with man-
sions, and embellished with parks and woods. Multi-
tudes of stand-points, not only on the hills but like-
wise throughout the plain, command magnificent views
over the Lothians and across the Firth of Forth, to
the Lammermuirs, the Ochils, and the Grampians.
The rocks belong to the Cakiferous Sandstone series,
with porphyrite at Corston Hill, and patches elsewhere
of intrusive basalt ; the soil is a mixture of clay and
sand on the northern border, a fertile loam in the cen-
tral and southern parts of the northern district, and on
the hills a vegetable mould. About two-thirds of the
land are under tillage ; about 550 acres are under wood ;
and most of the remainder is in permanent pasture.
Employment is given by limestone quarries and the
Oakbank shale oil-work. Alexander 13ryce (1713-86),
geometrician, was minister from 1745 till his death, as
also from 1786 was William Cameron (1751-1811), a
minor poet. William Cullen, M.D. (1710-90), the cele-
brated physician, was proprietor of Ormiston, and is
buried in the churchyard, along with his son Robert
(1764-1810), an eminent judge. Two other eminent
Lords of Session were also connected with this parish —
Alexander Maconochie of Mcadowbank (1748-1816) and
434

KIRKOSWALD

his son, Alexander (1776-1861), who successively on
their elevation to the bench assumed the title of Lord
Mcadowbank. Mansions, noticed separately, are Lin-
burn, Hillhouse, Mcadowbank, Ormiston, and Calder-
hall ; and 7 proprietors hold each an annual value of
£500 and upwards, 12 of between £100 and £500, 3 of
from £50 to £100, and 11 of from £20 to £50. Kirk-
newton is in the presbytery of Edinburgh and synod
of Lothian and Tweeddale ; the living is worth £448.
The parish church, near the Junction, was built in
1750, and, as enlarged and restored in 1872, now pi-esents
a handsome appearance in the Gothic style, and contains
588 sittings. There are also a Free church for Kirk-
newton and Ratho, and a U.P. church at East Calder.
Five public schools — East Calder, Kirknewton, Oakbank,
Sunnyside, and AVilkieston — with respective accommo-
dation for 200, 135, 122, 25, and 130 children, had (1881)
an average attendance of 211, 96, 88, 16, and 88, and
grants of £194, 16s. 6d., £88, 16s., £69, 6s., £13, 2s.,
and £62, 18s. Valuation (1860) £10,130, (1883) £17,508,
^Z«s £4026 for railwa}'s and waterworks. Pop. (1801)
1071, (1831) 1445, (1861) 1539, (1871) 2198, (1881) 2742.
—Orel. Sur., sh. 32, 1857.

Kirkney Burn. See Gartlt.

Kirk-o-muir. See Kirkamuir.

Kirkoswald, a village and a coast parish in Carrick
district, Ayrshire. The village, standing 332 feet above
sea-level, is If mile from the coast, and 44 miles WSW
of Maybole, under which it has a post office. An old and
picturesque place, with a good inn, it was here that
Burns spent his seventeenth summer in the study of
mensuration, making pretty good progress therein,
though not so great as in the knowledge of mankind, in
' scenes of swaggering riot and roaring dissipation.' In
the burying-ground are the graves of his ' Tam 0'
Shanter ' and ' Souter Johnnie' (Douglas Graham and
John Davidson), as also of his grand and great-grand
parents, the Brouns, the restoration of whose tomb-
stone was inaugurated on 3 Aug. 1883. Pop. (1871)
302.

The parish, containing also Maidens village, in-
cluded, till 1652, a considerable tract on the N\V side
of Girvan Water, now belonging to Girvan and Dailly.
It is bounded NE and E by Maybole, SE by Dailly, S
by Dailly and Girvan, and W and NW by the Firth
of Clyde. Its utmost length, from AV l)y N to E by S,
is 7| miles ; its utmost breadth, from NNE to SSW, is
6§ miles ; and its area is 15,444 acres, of which 503f
are foreshore and 79;^ water. The coast-line, 8^ miles
long, exhibits prominent features at Colzean Castle and
Turnberry Point, but elsewhere is chiefly a sandy beach,
with verdure down to the water-mark. It offers good
bathing facilities, and, though destitute of any village,
attracts to the farmhouses and the cottages in its
vicinity a considerable number of summer visitors. The
interior shows great diversity of contour, attaining 886
feet above sea-level at Mochrum Hill and 800 at Craig-
dow — vantage-grounds that command a wide and mag-
nificent prospect ; and it is everywhere richly embel-
lished with park and wood and culture. Mochrum Loch
(2,1 X 1^ furl.) and Craigdow Loch (If x 1^ furl.)
lie on the north-eastern and the eastern borders ; and
Milton Burn and numerous rills, running in various
directions to the Firth, afford abundance of pure water.
The rocks are partly eruptive, partly carboniferous ; and
coal has long been mined, but to no very great extent.
The soil of the NW district is mostly a very rich argil-
laceous loam ; of the SE, is generally lighter and more
humid. Nearly all the laud, except that in parks and
under wood, is regularly or occasionally in tillage. Col-
zean Castle, Thomaston Castle, the vestiges of Turn-
berry Castle, and the ruins of Crossraguel Abbey, all
noticed separately, are objects of great interest. The
Marcjuis of Ailsa owns three-fourths of the parish, 2
other proprietors holding each an annual value of more,
and 9 of less, than £500. Giving off a portion to the
q^wad sacra parish of Crossbill, and a smaller one to
that of Maybole West Church, Kirkoswald is in the pres-
bytery of Ayr and synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; the

KIRKOWAN

living is worth £393. The present parish church, at
Kirkoswald village, is a modern and commodious
edifice. The ancient church, standing within Turn-
berry manor, was called Kirkoswald of Turn berry, and
took the suffix Osicald from Osuakl, King of Xorthumbria
(634-42), who showed great zeal in the re-establishment
of Christianity. There is also a Free church ; and two
public schools, Kirkoswald and Townhead, with re-
spective accommodation for 162 and 80 children, had
(1881) an average attendance of 111 and 77, and grants
of £79, 3s. and £58, los. Yaluation (1860) £13,052,
(1883) £14,960, Is., plus £1132 for railwav. Pop. of
civil parish(lSOl) 1679, (1831)1951, (1861)2060, (1871)
1846, (1881) 1781 ; of ecclesiastical parish (1871) 1623,
(1881) \b\o.—Ord. Sur., shs. 14, 13, 1863-70.

Kirkowan. See Kirkcowax.

Kirkpatrick. See Kilpateick.

Kirkpatrick-Durham, a village and a parish of NE
Kirkcudbrightshire. The village stands 4^ miles EXE
of Crossmichael station, and 5 KXE of Castle-Douglas.
Founded about 1785, it was for some time the scene of
vigorous but vain exertions to establish a cotton and
woollen manufacture, and also was largely frequented
for balls and horse-races ; but underwent, in course of
years, a great decline of local importance, and now is a
quiet rural place, with a post office under Dalbeattie,
and a fair on 17 March o. s. or on the Thursday
after.

The parish contains also the village of Bridge of Urr,
and part of the village of Crocketford, and includes the
ancient chapelries of Areeming, Kirkbride, and ilinny-
dow, the last with a once famous St Patrick's "Well. It
is bounded X by Dunscore in Dumfriesshire, E by Kirk-
patrick-Irongray and Lochrutton, SE by Urr, SW by
Crossmichael, and W by Parton and Balmaclellan. Its
utmost length, from N to S, is 9| miles ; its utmost
breadth, from EtoW, is 4§ miles; and its area is 18, 3S9J
acres, of which lllf are water. The Water of Urr winds
lOf miles along all the western and south-western bor-
der ; Grange Burn, its affluent, traces the south-eastern
boundary ; and numerous streamlets drain the southern
district to the Urr and the northern district to Cairn
Water. Auchenreoch Loch (9 x If furl. ; 340 feet) lies
on the Urr border ; and seven smaller lakes are dotted
over the interior. Sinking in the S to between 100 and
200 feet above sea-level, the surface rises northward to
694 feet near Barderroch, 973 near Crofts, 869 at Auchen-
hay Hill, 863 at Bar Hill, and 1222 at Collieston Hill,
close to the Dunscore border. The southern district, to
the extent of about one-half of the whole area, exhibits
a southward declining surface, diversified with knolls
and craggy hills ; the northern includes Kirkpatrick
Moor, a broad, high, bleak region, almost entirely
heathy or pastoral, and chiefly distinguished for its
abundance of game. The rocks are variously eruptive,
Silurian, and Devonian. The soil, over the eruptive
rocks, is mostly wet, on a bottom of hard till ; over the
Silurian rocks, is gravelly and well suited for turnips
and barley ; and over the Devonian rocks, is light and
sandy. About two-fifths of the entire parish are in
tillage ; woods cover some 440 acres ; and all the rest of
the land is either pastoral or waste. A Eoman camp at
Doon Park andseveral artificial mounds make up theanti-
quities. Mansions are Bamcalzie, Chipperkyle, Corsock,
Crofts, Croys, Kilquhanity, Marwhirn, and Walton Park ;
and 5 proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and
upwards, 16 of between £100 and £500, 6 of from £50
to £100, and 5 of from £20 to £50. Giving off a portion
to Corsock qxi.oad sacra parish, Kirkpatrick-Durham is
in the presbytery and synod of Dumfries ; the living is
■worth £306. The parish church was built in 1849, and
contains 500 sittings; in the churchyard is a monument
to a Covenanting martyr, John Xeilsone of Corsock.
A Free church was built in 1843 ; and Crocketford public,
Kirkpatrick-Durham public, and Kirkpatrick-Durham
female industrial schools, with respective accommoda-
tion for 96, 141, and 70 children, had (1881) an average
attendance of 70, 63, and 61, and grants of £55, 8s.,
£45, Is.; and £50, lis. 6d. The farm of Brooklands

KIRKPATRICK-mONGRAY

was left to certain trustees for educational pui-poses ;
and, by the proposed scheme of the Educational En-
dowments (Scotland) Commission, the benefits of this
bequest are to be extended to the neighbouring parishes
of Crossmichael, Parton, Corsock, KirkpatrTck - Iron-
gray, Urr, and Lochrutton. Yaluation (1860) £8686,
(1883) £12,890. Pop. of civil parish (1801) 1007, (1841)
1487, (1861) 1479, (1871) 1374, (1881) 1317 ; of ecclesi-
astical parish (1871) 1218, (1881) IW^.—Ord. Sur., shs.
5, 9, 1857-63.

Kirkpatrick-Fleming, a village and a parish of SE
Dumfriesshire. The village, standing near the left bank
of Kirtle Water, has a station on the Caledonian rail-
way, 13 miles XW of Carlisle, 3f ESE of Kirtlebridge,
and 7 ESE of Ecclefechan, under which there is a post
office. A combination poorhouse, with accommodation
for 120 inmates, was built here in 1852.

The parish, comprising the ancient parishes of Kirk-
patrick, Irvine, and Kirkconnel, is bounded N by
Middlebie, E by Half-Morton and Gretna, S by Gretna
and Dornock, and W by Annan, Dornock (detached),
and Middlebie. Its utm'ost length, from X to S, is 6f
miles ; its breadth, from E to W, varies between 2f and
5 miles ; and its area is 11, 572 J acres, of which i^ are
water. Kirtle Water winds"7 miles along the north-
western and western border, and then goes 3^ miles
south-eastward through the interior, till it passes of!'
into Gretna on its way to the Sark. Where it
quits the parish, the surface declines to 70 feet above
sea-level, and thence it rises slowly northward to 225
feet near Hayfield, 349 at Wyseby Hill, and 565 at
High Muir — vantage-grounds that command extensive
and brilliant views in every direction except to the X.
Xumerous perennial springs give copious supplies of
pure water ; and four mineral springs, one of them
similar to Motfat Spa, the others to Hartfell Spa, enjov
considerable medicinal repute. The rocks are of the
secondary formation, from Devonian upward; and sand-
stone, limestone, and marble have been worked. The
son of nearly two-thirds of all the parish is humus or
decomposed moss, resting upon clay ; and that of the
rest is generally light and kindly, often a strong red
sandy earth, with porous subsoil. About 600 acres are
under wood ; 850 are unreclaimed moss ; 2000 are
moorish pasture ; and all the rest of the land is regularly
or occasionallv in tillage. The chief antiquities are
Woodhouse Tower, Redhall Tower, Merkland Cross, and
Kirkconnel churchyard. James Currie (1756-1805), an
eminent physician and Bums's biographer, was a native.
Mansions are Springkell, Cove, Kirkpatrick, Langshaw,
Mossknow, and Wyseby ; and 5 proprietors hold each
an annual value of £500 and upwards, 4 of between
£100 and £500, 3 of from £50 to £100, and 4 of from
£20 to £50. Kirkpatrick-Fleming is in the presbytery
of Annan and synod of Dumfries ; the living is worth
£305. The parish church was partly rebuilt about
1778, and contains 600 sittings. There is also a Free
church ; and two public schools, Gair and Kirkpatrick-
Fleming, -n-ith respective accommodation for 101 and
1S2 children, had (1882) an average attendance of 74
and 111, and grants of £57, 15s. and £104, 2s. 6d.
Valuation (1860) £9425, (1883) £12,565, 3s. 7d. Pop.
(1801) 1544, (1831) 1666, (1861) 1925, (1871) 1529,
(1881) 1464.— 07-rf. Sicr., shs. 10, 6, 1864-63.

Kirkpatrick-Irongray, a Xithsdale parish of NE
Kirkcudbrightshire, containing Shawhead post office, 7
mUes W of the post-town Dumfries. It is boxmded N
by Holywood in Dumfriesshire, SE by Terregles, S by
Lochrutton, and SW and W by Kirkpatrick-Durham".
Its utmost length, from E to W, is 8;^ miles ; its breadth,
from X to S, varies between i mile and 4| miles; and its
area is 13,710i acres, of which 36 are water. The Old
Water of Cluden, from a point 2 miles below its source,
traverses the interior, first 3.^ miles east-south-eastward,
next 2i miles northward, till i mile below the beautiful
Routing Bridge it falls into Cairn Water which traces 2
miles of the Holywood border ; and, as Cluden Water,
their united stream continues 4J mUes east -south-east-
ward along the Holywood border on its way to the river

435

KIRKPATRICK-JUXTA

Nith. Along the Cluden the surface declines to just
below 100 feet above sea-level, and thence rises westward
to 787 feet near Upper Riddingshill, 12S6 on Bishop's
Forest, and 1305 on Glenbennan Hill, the north-eastern
corner being nearly flat and highly embellished, the
central and southern districts being much diversified
with undulations, knolls, and broad-based hills ; and
the western district comprising these two bare hills of
Bishop's Forest and Glenbennan. The parish generally
is singularly picturesque, and contains mauy charming
close scenes, whilst commanding from several vantage-
grounds very brilliant views over Lower Nithsdale, over
part of Anuandale, and across the Solway Firth to the
Cumberland Mountains. The rocks are variously
eruptive, Silurian, and Devonian ; and the soil along
the Cairn and the Cluden is alluvial, elsewhere is chiefly
of a lightish character, either sandy or gravelly. Rather
more than one-seventh of the entire area is under wood ;
nearly one-half is in tillage ; and the rest is either
pastoral or waste. Of two pre-Reformation chapels, the
site of one, called Glenhead, is still marked by its long-
disused burying-ground. John Welsh, a grandson of
his great namesake of Ayr, was minister from 1653
tiU 1662; and the 'Communion Stones' on heather-
clad Bishop's Forest, 4 miles W by S of the parish
church, mark the spot where in 1678 he and three
other ejected ministers dispensed the Lord's Supper
to 3000 Covenanters. In 1870 a granite monument
was erected beside the Communion Tables, the most
perfect of their kind in Scotland. Scarcely j mile from
the church3-ard lie ' Edward Gordon and Alexander
SrCubbine, mart}n's, hanged without law by Lagg and
Captain Bruce, March 3, 1685 ; ' and in the churchyard
itself is a stone ' erected by the Author of Waverley in
memory of Helen Walker, who died in the year of God
1791, and who practised in real life the virtues with
which fiction has invested the imaginary character of
Jeanie Deans.' In recent times Kirkpatrick-Irougray
lias been the scene of the ' Recreations of a Country Par-
son'—A. K. H. Boyd, D.D. Drurnpark and the Grove
are mansions ; and 5 proprietors hold each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 12 of between £100 and
£500, 5 of from £50 to £100, and 5 of from £20 to £50.
Kirkpatrick-Irongray is in the presbytery and synod of
Dumfries ; the living is worth £300, exclusive of manse
and glebe. The parish church, on the right bank of
Cluden Water, 3^ miles WSW of Holywood station and
A\ NW of Dumfries, was built in 1803, and, containing
nearly 400 sittings, was repaired and beautified in 1873
at a cost of over £700, a massive Norman tower being
added, and mullioned windows inserted, two of which
liave since been filled with memorial stained glass. A
Free_ church stands 5 furlongs E of Shawhead ; and two
public schools, Roughtree and Shawliead, with respective
accommodation for 62 and 105 children, had (1881) an
average attendance of 37 and 68, and grants of £43, 3s.
and £50, 2s. Valuation (1860) £7818, (1883) £12,047,
2s. 6d. Pop. (1801) 730, (1841) 927, (1861) 913, (1871)
815,(1881) 7M.—0rd. Sur., sh. 9, 1863.

Kirkpatrick-Juxta, a parish of Upper Annandale,
NE Dumfriesshire. It takes the suffix Juxta on account
ofits being nearer to Edinburgh than any of the other
Kirkpatricks ; and it contains the station of Beattock
and the village of Ceaigielaxds, with Beattock post
and telegraph office under ilottat. It is bounded N by
Moffat, E by Moffat and Wamphray, S by Johnstone
and Kirkmichael, SW by Closeburn, and W and NW
by Crawford in Lanarkshire. Its utmost length, from
N to S, is 8i miles ; its utmost breadth, from E to W,
IS 71 miles ; and its area is 22,458^ acres, of which 123
are water. The river Annan, from a ])oint within 3|
miles of its source, winds 7| miles south-by-eastward
along all the eastern border ; Evan AVatkii flows 4§
miles south-south-eastward through the north-eastern
district, till it falls into the Annan opposite the influx
of Moffat Water ; Gaiipol Water runs 2^ miles east-
ward along the northern boundary, then 3^ miles east-
south-eastward through the interior to the Evan, its last
mile being through picturesque Garpol Glen, where
436

KIRKTON

it forms two waterfalls ; and Kinnel Water, r'sing
near the NW border, runs 7^ miles east-south-i ast-
ward through the interior, then 2| miles southward
along the Johnstone boundary. Perennial springs
are numei'ous, and afford the inhabitants abundance
of pure water ; whilst several chalybeate springs might
probably draw attention were they not excelled by
the famous neighbouring wells of Moftat and Hart-
fell. The surface is hilly, declining in the SE along
the Annan to 260 feet above sea-level, and rising thence
to 780 feet near Marchbankwood, 1008 at Knockilsine
Hill, 1897 at Harestones Height, and 2000 at Earncraig
Hill on the meeting-point of Kirkpatrick-Juxta, Close-
burn, and Crawford. The rocks are mainly of Lower
Silurian age ; and trap and grej'wacke are quarried.
The soil of the arable lands is shallow, but dry and not
unfertile. About one-third of the entire area is in
tillage ; woods cover some 500 acres ; and all the rest of
the land is pastoral or waste. The chief antiquities are
numerous cairns, vestiges of a Roman camp, several
circular enclosures supposed to have been used for
sheltering cattle from marauders, the sti'ong old castle
of Achincass, the tower of Lochhouse, and ruins of one
or two other mediisval fortalices. Mansions are Auchen
Castle, Beattock House, Craigielands House, and ilarch-
bankwood ; and 4 proprietors hold each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 4 of between £100 and
£500, and 2 of from £20 to £100. Kirkpatrick-Juxta
is in the presbytery of Lochmaben and synod of Dum-
fries ; the living is worth £268. The church, 7 furlongs
S by E of Beattock station, was built in 1799, and, as
repaired in 1824 and 1877, contains 430 sittings. Two
public schools, Dumgree and Kirkpatrick-Juxta, with
respective accommodation for 59 and 130 children, had
(1881) an average attendance of 39 and 112, and grants
of £50, 19s. 6d. and £79, 5s. Valuation (1860) £6761,
(1883) £10,883, 16s. lid., plus £3836 for railway. Pop.
(1801) 596, (1831) 981, (1861) 1025, (1871) 1091, (1881)
IQQi.—Ord. Sur., shs. 16, 10, 15, 1864.

Kirkpottie. See Dunbarny.

Kirkside, an estate, with a modern mansion, in St
Cyrus parish, Kincardineshire, If mile SW of Lauriston
station.

Kirkstead Bum, a troutful stream of Yarrow parish,
Selkirkshire, rising on the eastern slope of Black Law
at an altitude of 1980 feet, and running 4| miles south-
eastward till, after a descent of 1170 feet, it falls into
the foot of St Mary's Loch.— On^. Sur., shs. 24, 16,
1864.

Kirkstyle, a hamlet in Ewes parish, Dumfriesshire,
4 miles N by E of Langholm.

Kirkton, any Scottish hamlet, village, or small town,
which is or was the site of a parish church. The name,
in some cases, is used alone, in other cases is coupled
with the name of the parish ; and occasionally, when
the church, hamlet, village, or town bears properly the
same name as the parish, the name Kirkton is locally
employed to distinguish it from other hamlets or
villages within the parish. The places to which it is
applied are veiy numerous, and most of them very
small. The principal ones are in the parishes of Abbey
St Bathans, Airlie, Arbirlot, Auchterless, Avoch, Bal-
merino, Banchory, Blantyre, Burntisland, Carluke,
Cumbrae, Dunnichen, Ewes, Fetteresso, Fordoun, Fen-
wick, Gargunnock, Glenelg, Glenisla, Guthrie, Hob-
kirk. East Kilbride, Kilmaurs, Kinnettles, Kirkmahoe,
Largo, Laurencekirk, Lift', Lintrathen, Neilston, New
Deer, Newtyle, Row, St Cyrus, St Ninians, Slamannan,
Stoneykirk, Tealing, Tulloch, and Weem.

Kirkton, a parish in Teviotdale, Roxburghshire,
towards the middle containing Stobs station on the
AVaverley route of the North British, 4 miles S of
Hawick, under which it has a post office. Bounded SW
by Teviothead, W by Hawick, and on all other sides by
Cavers, it has an utmost length from NNE to SSW of
8§ miles, a varying breadth of 5 furlongs and IJ mile,
and an area of 6222f acres, of which 21;}: are water.
Dod Burn, which now feeds Hawick waterworks, runs
1| mile uorth-by-westward along all the Teviothead

KIRKTON BURN

KIRKWALL

border to its confluence -nith Allan Water ; Slitrig
Water, followed closely by the railway, winds 2| miles
northward along the Cavers boundaries and across the
middle of the parish ; and Dean Burn flows 2| miles
north-by-eastward along the eastern border on its way
to the Teviot at Denholm. Kirkton Loch (2x^ furl.)
lies J mile NXE of the church. Along the Slitrig the
sm'face declines to 4S0 feet above sea-level, thence
rising south-south-westward to 847 feet at AVinnington-
rig, and 1439 just beyond the Cavers border, north-
eastward to 939 feet near Adderstonelee, and 897 at
Kirkton Hill. The predominant rocks are eruptive
and Silurian ; and the soil of the arable grounds is
naturally poor and shallow, but has been much im-
proved by art. The poet, John Leyden, M.D. (1775-
1811), spent his childhood and youth at Henlawshiel
cottage, long since demolished, on Xether Tofts farm,
and received the rudiments of his education at the
parish school — a little thatched cottage, which now is a
workman's house. Three proprietors hold each an annual
value of more, and one of less, than £500. Kirkton is
in the presbytery of Jedburgh and synod of Merse and
Teviotdale; the living is worth £340. The church,
towards the XE corner of the parish, 3^ miles E of
Hawick, was built in 1841, and contains 180 sittings.
The public school is under the Cavers and Kirkton
school-board. Valuation (1864) £3065, 13s., (1882)
£4307, 10s. Id. Pop. (1801) 320, (1831) 294, (1861)
421, (1871) 320, (1881) 3M.—0rd. Sur., sh. 17, 1864.

Kirkton Bum, a rivulet of Neilston parish, Eenfrew-
shire, rising on the southern verge of the county, at an
altitude of 750 feet, and running 4^ miles north-north-
eastward till, after a descent of 600 feet, it falls into the
Levern at Barrhead. It expands into two considerable
reservoirs ; and has on its banks, in the lower part of
its course, several bleach-flelds and other public works.
—Ord. Sur., shs. 22, 30, 1865-66.

Kirkton Glen. See Cajipsie.

Kirktonhill, a handsome modern mansion in Marj^-
kirk parish, Kincardineshire, If mile X by E of ilary-
kirk station and 4 miles SSW of Laurencekirk. Its
owner, George Taylor, Esq., holds 2489 acres in the
shire, valued at £2505 per annum. — Ord. Sur., sh. 57,
1868.

Kirktonhill, a village in Westerkirk parish, Dumfries-
shire, on the left bank of the Esk, 6 miles NW of
Langholm.

Kirktown. See Kirkton, Roxburghshire.

Kirkurd, a parish of W Peeblesshire, whose church
stands 3| miles SSE of the station and post-town,
Dolphinton, 6^ N by E of Broughton station, and 5|
SW of Noblehouse. It is bounded N by Linton, NE by
Newlands, SE by Stobo, S by Stobo and Broughton,
SW by Skirling, and NW by Dolphinton in Lanark-
shire. Its utmost length, from E to W, is 4i miles ;
its utmost breadth, from X to S, is 3;^ miles ; and its
area is 5704^ acres, of which 6 are water. Tarth Water
runs 3| miles south-eastward along all the Linton and
Newlands border ; and Dean Burn, rising on the southern
border, runs northward through the interior to the
Tarth. In the extreme E, where Tarth Water quits
the parish, the surface declines to 680 feet above sea-
level, and thence it rises to 1632 feet at Lochurd Hill,
1872 at the Broughton Heights, 1385 near the Mount.
and 1121 at Shaw Hill. The rocks are Silurian and
Devonian ; and the soil towards the Tarth is chiefly
loam, elsewhere being either clayish or gravelly. About
one-third of the entire area is in tillage ; one-eleventh
is under plantation ; and the rest of the land is pastoral
or waste. A sulphureous spring on the N border, like
those of Mofl'at and Harrowgate, has been dry nearly
50 years. The chief antiquities are remains of a Cale-
donian stone cii'cle, two circular fortifications called the
Rings and the Chesters, and two stone-engirt artificial
mounds, supposed to have beeu used as seats of justice.
Mansions, both noticed separately, are Castle Craig and
Netherurd. Kirkurd is in the presbytery of Peebles
and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale ; the living is
worth £200. The parish church was built in 1776, and

contains 300 sittings. Kirkurd Free church is in Xew-
lands parish ; and a public school, with accommodatiou
for 82 children, had (1881^ an average attendance of 76,
and a grant of £57, 17s. Valuation (1860) £2520, (1883)
£3263, 10s. Pop. (1801) 327, (1831) 318, (1861) 362,
(1871) 294, (1881) 282.— Ord Sur., sh. 24, 1864.

Kirkville, a cottage ornee (1826) in Skene parish,
Aberdeenshire, Sh miles AV by N of Aberdeen. Its
owner. Captain Thomas Shepherd (b. 1846), holds 442
acres in the shire, valued at £728 per annum. — Ord.
Sur., sh. 76, 1874.

Kirkwall (a corruption of Scand. Kirkjuvagr, pro-
nounced Kirkevaag, i.e., 'church-bay'), a parish, -with
a royal burgh of the same name, in the E of the Main-
land of Orkney. The landward portion of the parish is
commonly known as St Ola, taking its title from Olaf
the Holy, who was killed in 1030, and had here a
church erected to his memory. The full oflicial name
is Kirkwall and St Ola. It is bounded N and NE by
the sea, E by the sea and by St Andrew's parish, SE by
Holm parish, S by the sea, and W by Orphir and Firth
parishes. Its outline is highly irregular, the X being
deeply indented by the Bay of Kirkwall and the Bay of
Carness, the NE by the Bay of Work and the Bay of
Meil, and the S by Scapa Bay. The distance across the
centre of the parish from the sea at Scapa Bay to the
sea at Kirkwall Bay, excluding the Peerie Sea, is If
mile ; but the greatest length, from a point W of Wide-
ford Hill on the W to Head of Holland on the E, is 5§
miles ; and the extreme breadth, from Car Head on the
X to the point on Scapa Flow where it joins Holm
parish, is 5f miles. The land area is 11,088 acres, of
which only 3000 are arable. The surface is very irre-
gular, and reaches its highest point at Wideford Hill
(726 feet) on the western border, from which there is an
excellent view. At its foot is the market stance, where
the great Lammas fair is held (though now sadly
diminished in importance), and where Bunce and Cleve-
land quarrelled with the pedlar. The drainage is carried
ofl" by a number of small burns that flow direct to the
sea. There are some small lakelets, and 2 miles S of
the burgh is a chalybeate spring, called Blakely's Well.
The soil near the shore is generally of a sandy nature ;
but in some places, especially near the town, there is a
rich black loam ; while elsewhere, particularly in the
higher grounds, it is a mixture of cold clay and moss.
The underlying rocks, belonging to the Old Red sand-
stone, are in some places coarse, dark-coloured sand-
stone, in others flaggy. Many of the beds abound in
fossils ; and at Pickoquoy Quarry at the Peerie Sea very
numerous, but not very well preserved, specimens may
be obtained of the only ostracod crustacean of the
s3-stem, the little Estheria memhranacea. As elsewhere
throughout Orkney, the appearance of the land is bare
and bleak from the total absence of trees, which,
numerous as the remains in the peat mosses show them
to have once been, do not now thrive except under
shelter. The shores are rocky, but, though higher on
the S than on the X, they nowhere attain any great
height. Xear Gait-nip on Scapa Bay are some small
caves. Off the E point of the Bay of Kirkwall is Thieves'
Holm, and oif the W point is Quanterness Skerry, both
belonging to this parish. The Bay of Kirkwall is 2^
miles wide at the mouth, and penetrates the land for
2 miles ; at the centre of the sweep, immediately to the
W of the town, is the Peerie Sea, separated from the
bay by a mound of earth and stone, locally known as
an ayre. This sheet of water used at one time to be a
fresh-water lake ; but many years ago an attempt was
made to drain it by making an opening in the earthen
mound, with the result that while the fresh water ran
out the salt water runs in twice a day. It is at present
proposed to fill it up with rubbish. The Bay of Carness
is \ mile wide at the mouth, and penetrates the land
for the same distance ; the ojjening of the Bay of Work
and the Bay of Meil measures about 7 furlongs by 7
furlongs at its deepest part ; Inganess Bay is 6 furlongs
wide at the mouth, and extends inland for 2j miles ;
Scapa Bay is 1| mile wide at the mouth, and extend."

437

KIRKWALL

inland for the same distance. Kirkwall, Inganess, and
Scapa all atlbrd safe and excellent anchorage for ships
of the largest size, and the latter is the ordinary resort
of boats and small craft from the southern Orknej's and
from Caithness. At Scapa a pier of sandstone, 530 feet
lone, protected bya sea-wall, -was bnilt in 1878-SOat acost,
inchisive of the improvement of the road to Kirkwall, of
£11,000, and this is now the harbour for the mail steamer
from Thurso. The harbour at Kirkwall is noticed in the
following article. The principal antiquities, besides
those noticed under the burgh of Kirkwall, are the sites
of three broughs— one on the shore of Inganess near
Birstane, one NW of Scapa, and one at Lower Saverock,
U mile along the coast NW of Kirkwall burgh— and
Picts' houses at Quanterness and Wideford Hill. The
latter is a fine specimen, the circumference of the mound
being 140 feet and the height of it 12 feet. A passage,
18 inches high and 22 inches wide, led to a central
apartment, 10 feet long, from 3 to 5 feet wide, and
about 9 feet 3 inches high ; connected with this were
other three smaller apartments. It is to be regretted
that both the Picts' houses are now lilled up with
rubbish. Distinguished natives are James Atkins or
Aikin (1613-87), Bishop of Galloway ; Sir Robert Strange
(1721-92), the celebrated engraver; Malcolm Laing
(1762-1818), the historian ; Professor Traill, M.D., pro-
fessor of medical jurisprudence in the University of
Edinburgh from 1832 to 1862; and William Balfour
Baikie, M.D. (1820-64), African explorer. Besides the
industries connected with the burgh and the shipping
at Scapa, there is a distillery, noted for the excellence
of its whisky, at Highland Park, 1 mile S of the burgh.
The parish is the seat of a presbytery in the synod of
Orkney, and the charge is collegiate. The stipend of
the first charge is £158, with a manse and a gl«be,
worth respectively £30 and £112 a year ; the second
charge stipend is £150, with £4, 3s. 4d. for communion
elements, and £50 for a manse and glebe. The land-
ward (St Ola) school board has under its charge Glaitness
public school, which, with accommodation for 120 pupils,
had (1881 ) an attendance of 96, and a grant of £77, 2s. 8d.
Twelve proprietors hold each an annual value of between
£500 and £100, 22 hold each between £100 and £50,
and there are many others of smaller amount. Valua-
tion, exclusive of burgh, (1881), £5037. Pop., inclu-
sive of burgh, (1801)' 2621, (1831) 3721, (1861) 4422,
(1871) 4261, (1881) 4801, of whom 2213 were males and
2588 were females.

The presbytery of Kirkwall comprehends the quoad
civilia parishes of St Andrews, Deerness, Evie and
Rendal, Holm, Kirkwall and St Ola, and South Ronald-
shay, the quoad sacra parish of Ronaldshay-St Mary's,
and the mission stations of Rendal in Evie and Rendal,
and Burray in South Ronaldshay. Pop. (1871) 11,497,
(1881) 12,251, of whom 1822 were communicants of the
Church of Scotland in 1878.

Kirkwall, a royal and parliamentary burgh, the county
town and chief town of Orkney, and a sea-port, in the
N of Kirkwall parish and at the head of the bay of the
same name. The origin of the name is given in the last
article, and the church from which it is derived seems
to have been one dedicated to St Olaf that existed
previous to the erection of the present cathedral of St
Magnus in the 12th century. The town is If mile N of
Scapa, lU miles in a straight line or 15 by road E by
N of Stroiiiness, 23i in a straight line N by E of Huna
(John o' Groat's), 49 NE of Thurso, 51 N of Wick, and
by steamer 135 from Aberdeen, 225 from Leith, and 575
from London. Of its foundation we knovy nothing, but
from its fine bay and its central position among the
islands, it probably became at a very early date an im-
portant place of rendezvous among the Norsemen, and
so a little village would spring up, which, though of
no great size, would probably oven then have enjoyed
burghal privileges. Down to the 12th century we find
the Norse Earls of Orkney, with their residences at
different idaces, each of which became to a certain
extent a rival locality for the time being, but from 1137
■when Riignvald (Kali), the nephew of St Magnus, begun
438

KIRKWALL

the erection of the cathedral, the supremacy of Kirkwall
must have been assured, if indeed the selection of it as
the site of a work which the Earl had vowed was to be
the wonder of succeeding ages, does not show that it
had already attained the leading position. The Bishop's
palace must have been erected within the succeeding
century, and in 1263 Haco took up his quarters in it
for the winter, after the battle of Largs. The St Clairs
became Earls of Orkney in 1379, and by one of this line
the castle of Kirkwall was erected, and thus fresh
dignity given to the place, which became the residence
of Earls who looked upon themselves as petty kings,
and kept house in a style of princely magnificence.
When the Orkney and Shetland islands passed into
Scottish possession on the marriage of James III. in 1469,
the Scottish king showed considerable favour for his new
dependency, and on 31 March 1486 granted Kirkwall a
royal charter, by which all the rights and privileges
conferred upon the burgh by former charters were
ratified and approved of, and mention is specially made
of the ' old erection of our burgh and city of Kirkwall
in Orkney by our noble progenitors of worthy memory
in ane haill burgh royal,' and 'of the great and old
antiquity of our said city.' The right of holding courts
was granted, with power of pit and gallows ; there were
to be two weekly markets on Tuesday and Friday, and
three annual fairs of three days each, commencing on
Palm Sunday, on 1 Aug. ('Lambmas Fair'), and on 11
Nov. ('St Martin's Fair'). Among the lands, etc.
granted were Thieves' Holm, ' of old the place where all
the malefactors and thieves were execute, ' and ' all and
haill the kirk called St Magnus Kirk and other kirks,
. . and all and sundry brebendaries, teinds, and
other rights yrto belonging . . . to be always em-
ployed and bestowed upon repairing and upholding the
said kirk called St Magnus Kirk : and farder, to call an
able and qualified man to be schoolmaster of our said
school in our said burgh. ' A confirming charter was
granted by James V. in 1536, but during the despotic
government of Earls Robert and Patrick both were
simply ignored, and though Charles II. granted a char-
ter oi novo damus in 1661, its validity was disputed by
the Earl of Morton, and finally in 1670 all the charters
were confirmed by Act of the Scottish Parliament. That
of Charles II., in which, as well as in the confirmation,
all rights of the bishopric are excluded, is deemed the
governing charter. Kirkwall was too far out of the way
to take any active part in the troubles of the Reforma-
tion and of the reign of Queen Mary, though, during the
reign of James VI., that monarch's detestation of
witches spread even thus far, and we find the records of
the times full of the trials of ' habit and repute ' dealers
with the evil one, and frequent must have been the
executions on the hill to the S of the town which is
known as the Lonhead or the Gallowhill. The real
reason of the accusations in many cases was Earl Pat-
rick's strong desire for money. (See Orkney. ) After
the wars of the Commonwealth the Orcadian espousal
of the cause of Charles II.* drew on the place the watch-
ful eye of Cromwell, and so, no doubt, led to the selec-
tion of Kirkwall as the site of one of the forts that the
Lord Protector erected in Scotland, ostensibly to afi'ord
protection from foreign assaults, but no doubt also to
furnish posts of vantage in case Scotland might take up
any more wrong-headed notions as to the government
of kings. This fort was to the E of the harbour where
the ramparts still remain. It is locally known as ' The
I\lount,' and is at present used as a battery for the 1st
Orkney Artillery volunteers who have their headquarters
at Kirkwall. It was protected on the land side by a
fosse, the line of which may still be traced. From this
time onward the burgh may be said to be in the happy
state of having no history except that of various im-
provements that have taken place in town and harbour,
and it is to be hoped that it may long thus remain.

* It was at Kirkwall that sonic 2000 Orkney men mustered in
March 1C50 under the command of Montrose, and set out with him
for Caithness, on that disastrous march which was to end in their
defeat at Invercharron, and the capture of their leader at Ass^ nt

KIRKWALL

Puhlic Buildings, etc. — The oldest part of the to^ii
extends along the shore of the bay, whence the
principal street, a very old one, \vinds away to the
SSW ; and though the causeway is now no longer so
rough as it once was, the street is still verj- incon-
venient, being in places so narrow that carts cannot
pass, and foot passengers have to take refuge from pass-
ing vehicles. All the older thoroughfares are equally
narrow, but the newer ones are wide and spacious.
Though the town, thanks very much to the cathedral,
looks best from the sea, the remark of Sir Walter Scott,
who was here in 1814, that it was 'but a poor and
dirty place, especially towards the harbour,' is now no
longer true, though improvement is still possible. The
completion of drainage, water supply, and paving
between 1876 and 1879, at a total cost of £8000 for the
two former and £2500 for the latter, has been a very
great improvement. The water supplj' comes from
Papdale. Many of the houses are very old, their crow-
step gables to the street, small doors and windows,
thick walls, and small, gloomy, and irregular rooms,
giving some parts of the town an ancient and even
foreign appearance, but the newer houses are much
.such as may be found in any other burgh of the same
size, except that most of them are provided with much
larger gardens ; and the strangest articles to be seen in
the shops are the curious woollen work articles from
Fair Isle, and thin Shetland shawls. The old Town
Hall, dating from 1745, built with stones taken from
the King's Castle, and covered with slates taken from
the Bishop's Palace, stands in the vicinity of the
cathedral, and was built partly by subscription and
partly by a grant of £200 from the Earl of Morton, who
was then tacksman of the bishopric teinds. This sum
is said to have been the proceeds of a fine imposed on
the fiery Jacobite, Sir James Stewart of Burray, for
firing at a boat in which the Earl was crossing Holm
Sound. The structure is a very poor one with a piazza,
and previous to 1876 the lower portion served as the
county jail, and also provided accommodation for town
council chambers and for county offices and coui't room.
In the upper portion there is a large room still used for
council meetings, but in the year mentioned new
county buildings were begun, and these now form a
handsome block, with an excellent court room, in which
the county meetings are also held ; and in the prison,
which is sanctioned under the Prisons Act of 1878,
there is accommodation for eight prisoners. A proposal
to remove the old Town Hall and erect a new one, with
accommodation in the same building for both town and
county ofiices and post office, has not j^et (1883) been
carried out. The handsome building occupied by the
Commercial Bank stands on the site of what was known
as Parliament Close, the quondam meeting place of the
Orknej' magnates. The King's Castle was on the W
side of the principal street, opposite the cathedral. It
was a strong building, vritli very thick walls, erected by
Henry St Clair in the 14th century, and was held by
the burghers in resistance to the fugitive Earl of Both-
well in 1567. After the execution of Earl Patrick
Stewart (see Orkney) in 1615, it was by order of the
Privy Council demolished, and in 1742 the ruins were
almost entirely cleared away, as the Earl of Morton
gave permission to the Town Council to use the stones
in the construction of the town house and jail. A por-
tion of one of the walls remained till 1865, when it was
removed to make way for Castle Street, as is recorded
by the inscription on the front of the Castle Hotel : —

' Near this spot, facing Broad Street, stood, in the year 1865,
the last remaining fragment of the ruins of the Castle of Kirkwall,
a royal fortress of great antiquity, and originally of vast strength,
but of which, from the ravages of war and time, nearly every
vestige had long previously disappeared. Its remains, consisting
of a wall 55 feet long by 11 feet thick, and of irregular height, were
removed by permission of the Earl of Zetland on ajJiilication of
the Trustees acting in execution of "The Kirkwall Harbour Act,
1859," in order to improve the access to the Harbour; aud this
stone was erected to mark its site, mdcccl.xvi.'

The Cathedral, near the S end of the principal street,
was founded, as already noticed, in 1137, and was

KIRKWALL

dedicated to St Magnus, a Scandinavian Earl of Orkney,
who was, in 1114, assassinated in the island of Egilshay
\>\ his cousin Haco. It was not nearly finished bj" the
founder, and was added to by several of the bishops,
and hence the five different stj'les which, according to
Sir Henry Dryden, may be detected in it. As it at
present stands it is one of the three old cathedi'als of
Scotland that now remain at all in perfect condition,
aud one of the two, the other being Glasgow, that have
all their parts as built complete. One peculiar feature
of it is the largeness with which it stands out in all the
views of the place, so much so indeed from the sea that
Miss Sinclair is not far wrong in saying that it ' looks
almost as large as the whole city put together ; ' and
this always gives it the appearance of being very much
larger than it really is. 'After having stood,' says Dr
Hill Burton, ' for nearly 700 years, it still remains pre-
eminent both in dignity and beauty over all the archi-
tectural productions which the fingers of civilisation
and science have reared around it ; and even the
traveller from the central districts of the mighty
empire to which the far isle of Pomona is now attached,
looking with admiring wonder on its lofty tiers of
strong and symmetrical arches, and its richly muUioned
windows, must admit that old St Magnus is matched
by veiy few of the ecclesiastical edifices of our great
cities, and those few are also ancient.' The appearance
given by the bulky pillars is that of strength rather
than heaviness. ' A few of the arches,' says Hugh
Miller, ' present on their ringstones those characteristic
toothed and zigzag ornaments that are of not unfamiliar
occurrence on the round squat doorwaj's of the older
parish churches of Englanel ; but by much the greater
number exhibit merely a few rude mouldings, that bend
over ponderous columns and massive capitals, unfretted
by the tool of the carver. Though of colossal magnifi-
cence, the exterior of the edifice yields in effect, as in
all true Gothic buildings — for the Gothic is greatest in
what the Grecian is least — to the sombre sublimity of
the interior. The nave, flanked by the dim deep aisles,
and by a double row of smooth-stemmed gigantic
columns, supporting each a double tier of ponderous
arches, and the transepts, with their three tiers of
small Xorman windows, and their bold semicircular arcs
demurely gay with toothed or angular carvings that
speak of the days of Rolf and Torfeinar are singularly
fine — far superior to aught else of the kind in Scotland.'
The building is cruciform, with side aisles and a
square tower over the crossing ; and the material of
which it is built is a dark red sandstone interspersed
with blocks of a white colour, especially on the W side.
The total length, from E to W outside, is 234 feet 6
inches, and the width 56 feet ; the transepts, from end
to end, measure 101 feet 6 inches, and the width is 28
feet ; and the present tower is 133 feet high. In the
inside the nave is 131 feet 6 inches long, and the choir
86 feet ; tlie length of the transepts is 89 feet 6 inches,
the breadth of nave 16 feet, the breadth of nave and
aisles 47 feet, and the height from floor to roof 71 feet.
The roof is supported by 28 pillars and 4 half pillars, all
18 feet high. The four large pillars at the crossing
supporting the tower are fluted, as are also the two half
pillars, and the two pillars on each side next them at
the E end. The half pillars at the W end are semi-
circular, and all those in the nave, as well as the two in
the choir next the fluted pillars under the tower, are
circular. The roofs are all vaulted and groined. The
tower was formerly topped by a lofty spire, but this was
in the beginning of 1671 struck by lightning 'which
fell upon the steeple held of the Cathedral Kirk of
Orkney called St Magnus Kirk of Kirkwall, and fyred
the samen which burnt downward until the steeple heid
But, by the providence of God, the bells
thereof, being three great bells and a little one called
the scellat bell, were preserved by the care and vigi-
lance of the magistrates, with the help of the towns-
people.' The spire was then succeeded by the present
squat and very ugly pjTamidal roof. The top of the
tower, from which an excellent view may be obtained, is

439

KIRKWALL

reached by staircases, starting first from the corner of
each transept. A clerestory ami triforium pass round
the -n-hole building. The E window, which measures
36 feet by 12, shows four pointed lights without tracery,
and above these extending all across is a very fine rose
window with 12 leaves. According to Sir Henry Dry-
den it is unique. The window in the end of the S tran-
sept has a rose of similar form and size. There are
three doors in the W end, two into the side aisles near
the "W end, one in the end of the S transept, and one in
the S side of the choir, near the centre. The style of
the earlier parts is Xorman, that of the rest different
varieties of Pointed. The oldest parts are supposed to
be the crossing, and the three arches in the chancel
immediately to the E of it. According to the usual
accotmt, the three arches farther E still, and the large
window were added by Bishop Stewart on his accession
to the see in 1511. Of the nave, the first five arches
next the tower are thought to be later than the earliest
part, and have been even referred to a period as late as
the middle of the 15th centurj^, while the exti'erae W
end of it is said to have been erected in 1550 by Bishop
Reid, who succeeded to the see in 1540, and was the last
Roman Catholic bishop. This account is, however,
opposed by Sir Henry Dryden, who studied the build-
ing very minutely. He thinks that the architecture of
the building indicates five portions erected respectively
1137-1160, 1160-1200, 1200-1250, 1250-1350, and 1450-
1500, and that, therefore, no part of it can be due to
either Stewart or Reid, except perhaps that the W ai'ch
of the nave may have been added by the latter, and the
W end with its window and doorways moved. The
finest parts of the buildings are the W doorways and
the doorway in the end of the S transept. ' The central
doorway of the W end,' saj's Drj^den, 'has five orders
in its arch ; and the other two in the W end, as well as
that in the S transept, have four orders. All have
hoods. The carving is much decayed, but still retains
evidence of its former beauty when the rolls of free
foliage and the deeply-sunk mouldings were perfect.
On these doorways the dog-tooth is much used, as well
as a zig-zag roll undercut. . . . The caps were of
richly-carved foliage, and on the caps of the centi-al door-
way are also two nondescript animals. The shafts have all
been renewed. Probably at first they were alternately
j'ellow and red,' and he thinks that in their original
state they were probably the finest examples in Britain
of the regular combination of diiferent coloured stones.
Bishop Maxwell, shortly after his accession in 1525,
introduced stalls, and provided the three fine-toned
bells that now hang in the steeple. The notes are G,
A, and C ; and the first is 2 feet 9 inches in diameter
and 2 feet 5 inches high, the second is 3 feet 1 inch in
diameter and 2 feet 5 inches high, and the third is
3 feet 5 inches in diameter and 2 feet 9 inches high.
They were originally cast in Edinburgh in 1528 by
Robert Borthwick, master gunner to James V. ; but the
third or tenor bell was recast at Amsterdam in 16S2.
A fourth bell, with a very shrill tone, and known as
the skellet or fire-bell, hangs also in the tower, and
must be about the same age as the others ; for after the
destruction of the spire by the fire already noticed, it
was rehung the same year, while the others were not
again put in position till 1679. Though the pile
escaped injury at the Reformation, it came very near
destruction during the rebellion of Earl Patrick Stewart
and his son ; for the Earl of Caithness, who suppressed
it, ' went about to demolish and throw down the church,
but was with great difficulty hindered and stayed by
the Bishop of Orkney, who would not suffer him to
throw it down. ' Still, however, it began to decay, for,
the revenues of the bishopric having passed to the
Crown, there were no funds to keep it in repair, and the
heritors seem not to have troubled themselves to try to
mend matters — somewhat the contrary indeed, as in
1649 they allowed the Earl of Jlorton to carry off some
marble sla])s from the floor of the church ' to erect ane
tomb upon the corp of his umquhile father in the best
fashion he could have it,' though they bound him to fill
440

KIRKWALL

up their places with 'hewen stones.' In 1701 com-
plaint was made to the presbytery of 'the most un-
christian and 7nore than barbarous practice of the Town
Guard of Kirkwall at the time of the Lambas Fair, their
keeping guard within the church, shooting of guns,
burning great fires on the graves of the dead, drinking,
fiddling, piping, swearing and cursing night and day
within the church, by which means religion is scan-
dalised and the presbj'tery most miserably abused ;
particularlj' that when they are at exercise in the said
church, neither can the preacher open his mouth nor
the hearers conveniently attend for smoke ; 3'ea, some
of the members of the presbyter}' have been stopped in
their outgoing and incoming to their meetings, and
most rudely pursued by the soldiers with their muskets
and halberts ' — certainly a state of matters far from
creditable to the municipal authorities of the time.
Several parts of the building became very ruinous, but
nothing was done till, in 1805, G. L. Meason, Esq. of
Moredun, bequeathed £1000, the interest of which was
to be applied every year to the repair of the building.
At last, in 1845, the Government, under the impression
that the cathedral was national propertj'', spent £3000
in very extensive repairs, the S transept being put once
more in thorough repair ; and as another Established
church had been built shortly before, they removed the
unsightly screen pews and galleries that had disfigured
the choir, and laid the whole building open from end to
end. During these operations the tombs of William the
Old (1167), the first, and Thomas TuUoch (1461), the
thirteenth, bishop, were discovered — the former contain-
ing a leaden plate, inscribed on one side Hie requiescit
Wilelmus senexfelkis memorie, and on the other Pmus
Epis. ; whilst in the tomb of Bishop Tulloch were an imita-
tion chalice and paten of beeswax and an oaken pastoral
staff. These were very injudiciously removed to Edin-
burgh, where they may be seen in the Antiquarian
Museum. In 1855 it was decided that the choir of the
cathedral belongs to the heritors and the rest to the town
council, and these proceeded at once to undo part of the
good work that had just been done, and restored the
pews and screen, and even painted some of the pillars
yellow ! while, during the lowering of the floor, the bones
of Bishop William, again laid bare, were carted away as
rubbish ! This was the croAvning act of vandalism ; but
the removal and breaking up of the bishop's throne and
the Earl's pew were but little less heinous. The former
was a largo structure to the S of the altar, and had
an arabesque gallery over. It was erected by Bishop
Graham (1615-38), and repaired by Bishop Honeyman
(1664-76) ; while the latter, which was probably the
original bishop's throne, was of handsome carved oak,
with a fine canopy, probably taken from the original
rood loft. The pattern of the carving is figured by
Billings, who uses it to demonstrate the truth of his
theory that Gothic tracery was derived geometrically
from sj-stems of squares. Some of the carved panels of
the bishoj)'s throne are now in the mansion-house of
Graemeshall. Since these dark deeds — which, wonder-
ful to tell, still find champions to defend them, as may
be seen by a letter in the Scotsman newspaper for 15 Aug.
1881 — but little alteration has taken place, except that,
in 1881, the Meason trustees (the convener of the county,
and the provost and Established Church ministers of
Kirkwall) have restored four of the small windows on
the S side of the nave which had previously been par-
tially built up. Many of the bishops were buried in
the church, as was also St Magnus, whose body was
removed thither from Christ Church, Birsay, where it
was first interred, and which was originally the seat of
William's bishopric. It was also the temporary resting-
place of King Haco before his body was removed to
Trondhjem. A number of old tombs still remain, in-
cluding fragments of the finely crocheted tomb of Bishop
Tulloch in the S aisle, and a huge white marble slab in
the choir marking the grave of Earl Robert Stewart,
father of the famous Patrick. In the N transept is a
handsome monument to Dr Baikie, who conducted
extensive explorations along the river Niger j and

KIRKWALL

affixed to the wall is a marble slab to the memory of
Malcolm Laing, the historian. Round the building
outside is a church3'ard of considerable size. There are
two curious brass alms dishes of Dutch workmanship in
the vestry. They have a group of Adam, Eve, the
serpent, and the tree ; and one of them bears the in-
scription in Dutch, ' Had Adam obeyed God's words, so
had we then lived in Paradise. Anno 1636.' In front
of the cathedral the red sandstone cross, originally set
up by Bishop Graham in 1621, has been re-erected. It
stood originallj- in the old market-place, and the jougs
were close by. The cross is the point where the football
is set agoing every Kew Year's Day, in the great match
between the Kirkwall people and those of the North Isles.

The Earl's Palace, known originally as the New-wark
o' the Yards, to distinguish it from the Bishop's Palace,
which was the Place o' the Yards, is a short distance S
of the cathedral. It was erected by Earl Patrick in
1607, and, though since 1745 it has been a roofless
ruin, the extensive remains are still sufficient to show
the taste with which it has been designed, as well as
marked traces of French influence. The buildings form
three sides of a rectangle, and over the doorway, as well
as elsewhere, may still be discerned P. E. 0. for Patrick,
Earl of Orkne}'. The banqueting hall on the first floor
is approached by a massive stone stair, and has two
magnificent fireplaces, with flat-arch lintels, one at each
end. It is 58 feet long, 20 feet 4 inches wide, and 15
feet high at the side walls. It was lighted by four
fine windows, and has several rooms opening off it, one
of them having probably served as a drawing-room.
The corbelled turrets and oriels are very characteristic
features. It Avas handed over to Bishop Law in 1606,
and was last inhabited by Bishop Mackenzie, who died
in 1688. The hall was greatly admired by Scott, who
makes it the scene of Bunce's interview with Cleveland
in The Pirate. It is much to be regretted that the
comments Scott, in his journal for 1814, makes on the
manner in which it is cared for, are still very applicable.
Before the present County Buildings were erected in
1876, a proposal was made to restore this building and
use it for that purpose, but the scheme fell through
owing to the niggardliness of the then Chancellor of the
Exchequer. The Bishop's Palace stands between the
Earl's Palace and the cathedral, and must have been
founded in the end of the 12tli or the beginning of the
13th century, for here, after the battle of Largs and his
retreat to Orkney, King Haco took up his winter
quarters 'with such men as dined at his board,' and
here, broken hearted, he died, and his ' corps was
carried into the high chamber and set on a bier. The
body was clad in rich raiment, and a garland set on his
head ; and all bedight as became a crowned monarch.
The light-swains stood with tapers, and the whole hall
was lit. Then went all folk to see the body, and it was
fair and blooming, and the face was fair in hue as in
living men. There was great solace of the grief of all
there to see their departed king so richly dight. Then
was sung the high mass for the dead. The nobles kept
wake by the corps through the night. On Monday the
body was borne to Magnus Kirk and royally laid out
that night. On Tuesday it was laid in a kist and
buried in the choir of St Magnus Kirk, near the steps
of the shrine of St Magnus the Earl.' But little of the
building now remains, and that of much later date than
the 13th century ; the principal part being a tower,
round outside, but sc[uare inside, built in 1550 by
Bishop Reid. On the outside of the N wall is a statue,
said to represent the Bishop himself. The best trees
in the island are round these buildings.

The Established Church congregation worship in the
choir of the cathedral, which is much disfigured by the
wooden screen that separates this i^art from the nave.
It was refitted, as already noticed, in 1855 at a cost of
£1350, and contains about 870 sittings. An extension
church, built close to the cathedral in 1841 at a cost of
£1 400, and containing 1000 sittings, became useless at the
Disruption in 1843, and was long afterwards taken down.
The old church of St Olaf stood in Poorhouse Close otf
65

KIRKWALL

Bridge Street, and was, according to Dr Anderson,
er ected by Eognvald to the memory of his foster father,
King Olaf the Holy (not to be confounded with Olaf
Trj-ggvison), who was killed in 1030. This was the
church from which the town took its name, and where
the body of St JIagnus was first placed when it was
brought from Egilshay in 1135. In 1502 it was burned
by a party of Englishmen, who had landed from
ships, and the site is said to have been used for a time
as a burial place for malefactors. Bishop Eeid, how-
ever, between 1540 and 1558, erected a new church in
the same place, of which, however, little but a doorway
and a portion of a wall with two aumbries now remain.
One of the latter has now been removed to the new
Episcopal church. It remained a church after the
Reformation, for a reader was appointed in 1561, but
has since been used as a poorhouse (hence the name of
tlie lane) and a workshop, and it is now part of a dwell-
ing-house. The Free church, with 582 sittings, was
erected soon after the Disruption. The U.P. church,
bunt in 1848 at a cost of £3800, and containing 1300
sittings, superseded a Secession church built in 1796.
The Congregational church, erected in 1823 at a cost of
£515, contains 410 sittings. An Episcopal mission was
established in 1871, and the present church (St Olaf's)
was erected in 1875-76 at a cost of £1200. There are
160 sittings, and a tower has still to be added. The
vestry and chancel were partly destroyed by fire in
1881. The Roman Catholic church (Our Lady and St
Joseph), erected in 1877, contains 100 sittings. The
burgh school board have the care of the burgh school,
which was founded by Bishop Eeid in 1544. The present
buildings, erected originally in 1820, were greatly
enlarged in 1873-74, and, with accommodation for 470
pupils, had in 1881 an attendance of 364, and a grant
of £367, 19s. There are also four private schools. Gas
was introduced about 1850, the works belonging to a
joint-stock company.

Trade, etc. — From its situation as the centre of dis-
tribution among the islands, Kirkwall has a considerable
trade. It is connected by conveyances with Stromness ;
with Shapinshay daily by boat ; with the other islands
by steamers twice a week ; with Aberdeen, Leith, and
Lerwick by steamers twice a week in summer, and once
a week in winter ; and with Thurso daily by steamer
from Scapa to Scrabster. The manufacture of linen was
introduced in 1747, and flourished for some time, but is
now gone, and the same fate has befallen the manufac-
ture of kelp and the plaiting of straw for ladies' hats
and bonnets, which, during the first half of the present
century, afforded employment to about three-fourths of
the women. Trade is now confined to the ordinary
handicrafts, etc., including boatbivilding, and a shipping
and distributing trade. The harbour, consti'ucted about
1811, has since been greatly improved. It is sheltered
from the N by quays, and being safe and commodious, as
well as accessible at all states of the tide, is much fre-
quented by vessels. In 1866 a fine iron pier, standing
on screw piles, was erected at a cost of £10,490. Fresh
improvements were again begun in 18S0-S1, and a con-
tract for the completion of the new works within the next
two j-ears (1884-85) has just been accepted. When it is
finished it will be one of the most complete harbours in
Scotland. The customs port comprehends the whole of
the Orkney islands and the skerries, but the only con-
siderable harbour, besides that at Kirkwall, is Stromness.
The vessels belonging to the district, most of them to
Kirkwall, at various dates have been as follows : —

Sailing Vessels.

1
Steamers.

Year.

No.

Tonnage.

No. 1 Tonnage.

1S53, .

43

2485

1867, .

46

2314

2

95

1S76, .

37

2024

3

132

1S83, .

36

2796

3

196

The trade for the same years is shown in the following

441

KIRKWALL

table, giving the tonnage of the vessels entered and
cleared, including their repeated voyages, Avhether with
cargoes or in ballast :-t-

Enterbd.

Cleared.

Year.

British.

Foreigrn.

Total.

1
British.

Foreign.

Total.

1853, .
1867, .
1874, .
1882, .

25,755
36,765
147,626
224,371

651
952
1959

25,755
37,416
148,578
226,330

27,197
37,153
144,441
218,835

651

850

1349

27,197
37,804
145,291
220,184

The number of vessels that entered in 1882 were 2132
British and 23 foreign, and those that cleared, 2070
British and 16 foreign.

MunicijmlUii, etc. — The burgh is governed by a provost,
2 bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, and 7 councillors,
and unites with "VVick, Cromarty, Dornoch, Dingwall,
and Tain in returning a member to serve in parliament,
Wick being the returning burgh. Corporation revenue
(1883) £220, parliamentary constituency 384, municipal
459. For police pm-poses the burgh is united with the

Seal of Kirkwall.

county. The Duke of Edinburgh visited Kirkwall on
24 Jan. 1882, and was presented with the freedom of
the burgh. The district sheriff-substitute resides here,
and ordinary and small debt courts are held every Tues-
day during session. Justice of peace small debt courts
are held as required. There are markets on the first
I\Ionday of every month, and in August is the Lammas
Fair which used to last for a fortnight, though now it is
pretty much confined to the market on the first Tuesday
after 11 Aug. and the two following days. There are also
a head post office, with money order, savings' bank, and
telegraph departments, 5 hotels, offices of the Bank of
Scotland, National, tjnion, and Commercial Banks,
agencies of 16 insurance companies, a library, established
in 1815, a public news-room to which strangers are ad-
mitted free, the Balfour hospital for the sick, a temper-
ance hall, a literary and scientific association, a young
men's literary association, a branch of the Bible Society,
a branch of the shipwrecked fishermen and mariners
benevolent society, a masonic lodge (Kirkwall Kilwin-
ning, No. 38), a battery of artillery volunteers, the Con-
servative Orcadian (1854) published every Saturday,
the Liberal Orknerj Ilcrald (1860) every Wednesday, the
Liberal A'or</w/i«?i(1874)every Saturday, and the Liberal-
Conservative Orkney and Shetland 7'clc'jraph (1876) every
Thursday. Valuation (1875) £7322, (1883) £11,516.
Pop. ofroyalburgh(1841)2205, (1861)2444, (1871)2265,
(1881)2613 ; of parliamentary burgh (1841) 3041, (1861)
3519,(1871) 3434, (1881) 3923, ofwhom 2169 werefemales.
Houses (1881) 537 inhabited, 10 vacant, 10 buildin''.
442

KIRRIEMUIR

See also the works cited under Orkney, and Lord
Teignmouth's Sketches of the Coasts ami Islaruls of Scot-
land (1836) ; Miss Sinclair's Scotland and the Scotch
(1840) ; Neale's Ecclcsiological Notes on the Isle of Man,
Orkneys, etc. (1848) ; Sir Walter Scott's IVic Pirate, and
Lockhart's Life of Scott under the year 1814 ; Hugh
Miller's Cruise of the Betsey (Edinb. 1858) ; Billings'
Baronial and Ecclesiastical Antiqui1>ies of Scotland, vol.
iii. (Edinb. 1852) ; Sir H. E. L. Dryden's Description
of the CJiurch of St Magnus (Daventry, 1871 ; Kirkwall,
1878) ; and J. R. Tudor's Orkneys and Shctlands (Loud.
1883).

Kirkwood or Braehead, a collier village in Old Monk-
land parish, Lanarkshire, 2 miles SW of Coatbridge.
Pop. (1871) 491, (1881) 667.
Kirk-Yetholm. See Yetholm.

Kirn, a quoad sacra parish in Dunoon parish, Argyll-
shire. Constituted in 1874, it is in tlie presbytery of
Dunoon and synod of Argyll. Its church was built as
a chapel of ease at a cost of £900. Pop. (1881) 791.
See Dunoon.
Kirnan. See Kilmichael-Glassaky.
Kirouchtree. See Kirroughtree.
Kirriemuir, a town and a parish of W Forfarshire.
The town stands, 455 feet above sea-level, on the left
bank of winding Gairie Burn, which sepai-ates it from
the suburb of Southmuir ; as terminus of a branch of
the Caledonian, with a commodious station, rebuilt in
1872, it is 3 miles NW of Kirriemuir Junction and 5
WNW of Forfar. Situated on the NW side of Strath-
more, partly on level ground, and partly on the skirt of
a hill, it commands from its higher portion a brilliant
view of a great extent of Strathniore, and chiefly con-
sists of streets arranged in a manner similar to the arms
and shaft of an anchor. Not a few of its houses still are
mean enough, but great improvements which have been
carried out of recent years give pleasing indications of the
presence both of taste and of successful industry. Kirrie-
muir has a post office, with money order, savings' bank,
and telegraph departments, branches of the Bank of
Scotland and the National, Union, and British Linen
Co. 's Banks, 14 insurance agencies, 8 principal inns, 2
Good Templar lodges, a beautiful public cemetery, a
public park, a gas-light company, a horticultural
society, and cricket, bowling, curling, and foot-bail
clubs. The parish church is a handsome edifice of
1786, with a neat spire and 900 sittings. South quoad
sacra parish church, built as a chapel of ease in 1836
at a cost of £1340, acquired its parochial status in
1870, and contains 1021 sittings. Other places of
worship are the North and South Free churches, two
U.P. churches — one built in 1853, and containing 500
sittings, the other fitted up from a trades' hall of 1815
in 1833, and containing 604 ; a United Original Seces-
sion church (1807 ; 400 sittings), and St Mary's Epis-
copal church (1795 ; 300 sittings). Webster's Seminary,
and a public, an industrial, and an Episcopal school,
with respective accommodation for 310, 400, 190, and
180 children, had (1881) an average attendance of 174,
400, 120, and 141, and grants of £144, lis., £345, 6s. 6d.,
£89, 6s., and £97, Os. 7d. The fir.st of these was founded
in 1835 with the bequest (1829) of John Webster, Esq. ;
the second was built in 1875 at a cost of £2700.

A weekly corn and provision market is held on
Friday ; four cattle fairs have been extinct for several
years ; a horse fair is held on the second Friday of
Marcli ; a cattle and horse fair on the Wednesday
after Glamis May fair, on 24 July or the Wednesday
after, on the Wednesday after 18 Oct., and on the
Wednesday alter Glamis November fair ; and a hiring
fair is held on the Term Day if a Friday, otherwise on
the Friday after. Some business is done in the supply
of handicraft produce, and in the retail supjil}'^ of mis-
cellaneous goods to the surrounding country ; the weav-
ing of brown linen is the stai)le branch of industry ; and,
amid the great and many changes elsewhere in the linen
manufacture, it here had long the singular character of
always having been carried on by means solely of the
li.nid-loom. Recently, however, two large power-loom

KIRRIEMUIR

factories have been erected. The weavers, in some years,
particularly in 1826 and 1841, suflered severely from a
great fall of waojes ; and often have had to struggio with
poverty and privation ; but they have manfully Ijreasted
every difficulty, and are admitted throughout the county
to be expert and skilful operatives. Among tliem have
been men of marked intelligence. One, David Sands,
who flourished in 1760, invented a method of weaving
double cloth for the use of stay-makers, and wove and
finished in the loom three seamless shirts. The manu-
facture began to assume importance about the middle of
the last century, and so early as 1792 produced osna-
burgs and coarse linens to the yearly value of £30,000.
It turned out annually, before the close of the century,
1,800,000 yards of stamped linen ; and year by year the
produce has increased till now it reaches "between
10,000,000 and 15,000,000 yards, whilst giving employ-
ment in the town and neighbourhood to over 2000 weavers.
The feud of the weavers of Kirriemuir and the sutors of
Forfar has been already noticed under the latter town.

Kirriemuir is a burgh of barony, under the Earl of
Home ; but, as a burgh, it has neither property, revenue,
nor debt. A baron bailie, appointed by the superior,
up to the year 1875 was the only magistrate, and pre-
sided as judge in a police and barony court. In 1875
the General Police and Improvement (Scotland) Act
was adopted, and the aifairs of the town have since been
managed by the commissioners appointed under it.
The magistrates of police now preside in the police
court ; but the baron bailie still presides in the barony
court held in connection with certain of the fairs.
A sheriff small debt court sits on the third Monday
of January, March, May, July, September, and Novem-
ber ; and the district justices of peace hold courts as
occasion requires. Burgh valuation (1883) £8635, Is. 6d.
Pop. of entire town (1831) 4014, (1861) 4686, (1871)
4145, (1881) 4390, of whom 2493 were females, whilst
2937 were in Kirriemuir proper or the police burgh
and 1453 in the Southmuir suburb.

The parish consists of two mutually detached sections,
lying IJ mile asunder at the narrowest, and separated
one from another by a strip of Kingoldrum — the main
or Strathmore division containing the town, and the
north-western or Grampian division. The latter,
bounded N, NE, and E by Cortachy, S by Kingoldrum,
SW by Lintrathen, and NW by Glenisla, has an ut-
most length from NW to SE of 11 miles, with an ut-
most width of 4 J miles ; whilst the main body is bounded
N by Cortachy, NE by Tannadice, E by Oathlaw, SE
by Forfar and Glamis, S by Glamis, SW by Airlie, and
W and NW by Kingoldrum, having an almost equal ex-
treme length and breadth from N to S and from E to
W of 5f and 5g miles. The area of the whole is 35,658^
acres, of which 20,630f belong to the north-western
division, and 56| are water. Prosen Water, rising in
the north-western extremity of the Grampian section on
the western slope of Mayar at an altitude of 2750 feet,
runs 12| miles through the interior, and then 3 furlongs
along tiie Kingoldrum border ; during this course it re-
ceives the tribute of sixteen burns. Where it quits this
section, the surface declines to 690 feet above sea-level,
thence rising north-westward to 2196 feet at Cat Law,
1998 at Corwharn, 2302 at Broom Hill, 3105 at Driesh,
and 3043 at Mayar, of which the three first culminate
on the south-western, and the two last on the northern,
boundary. After flowing 2f miles south-south-eastward
along the mutual border of Cortachy and Kingoldrum,
Prosen Water winds 2^ miles east-by-southward along
all the Cortachy boundary of the main division of
Kirriemuir, till it falls into the South Esk, which itself
runs 2 miles east-south-eastward along all the Tanna-
dice border, and which from the interior is joined by
Cauity Burn, first tracing 1^ mile of the north-western
boundary, and next flowing 5| miles eastward aci'oss
the northern interior. The southern is drained by
Gairie Burn, winding 6g miles south-south-eastward,
till it passes off into Glamis on its way to Dean Water,
and itself fed by Dairsie Burn, which traces 3 miles of
the south-western and southern boundary. In the ex-

KIRTLE WATER

treme S the surface sinks to 190, along the South Esk
in the NE to 295, feet above sea-level ; and betweea
these points it rises to 631 feet at the Hill of Kirriemuir,
513 at Cloisterbank, and 1018 at Culhawk Hill. The
principal rocks of the Grampian section are mica slate,
hornblende slate, and gneiss ; those of the Strathmore
section are mainly Devonian, with occasional protru-
sions of trap. Limestone has been quarried and calcined.
The soil of the arable tracts of the Grampian section is
partly thin and light, partly mossy, and generally wet ;
that in considerable belts on both the northern and
southern borders of the Strathmore section is sandy ;
and that of the central and larger portions of the same
section is mostly a black mould on a subsoil of so-called
'morter.' Of the north-western division, at least five-
sixths are M-aste, and one-thirty-sixth is under wood ;
of the main body one-eighth is under plantations in fine
arrangements of clumps and groves, eleven-sixteenths
are regularly or occasionally in tillage, and nearly all
the rest of the area is chiefly pasture and partly moss,
the Mosses of Kinnordy and Balloch being constantly
used for supplies of peat. Extant antiquities are tumuli
and uninscribed monumental stones ; querns, arrow-
heads, battle-axes, and two canoes or currachs have
been discovered from time to time ; and not so long
ago two ponderous rocking-stones stood a little NW
of the hill that overlooks the town. Inverquharity
Castle is noticed by itself. Within this parish several
skirmishes were fought arising out of the Ogilvies'
feuds ; and the Battle of Arbroath (1446) must have
been a grievous blow to Kirriemuir. Mansions, noticed
separately, are Kinnordy, Shielhill, Logic, and Balna-
both ; and 7 proprietors hold each an annual value of
£500 and upwards, 14 of between £100 and £500, 17 of
from £50 to £100, and 98 of from £20 to £50. The
north-western division has formed, since 1874, the
quoad sacra, parish of Glenprosen ; the south-eastern
division, also in the presbytery of Forfar and synod of
Angus and Mearns, is divided ecclesiastically between
Kirriemuir proper and Kirriemuir South Church, the
former a living worth £346. Five pre-Keformation
chapels, besides the parish church, were in Kirriemuir —
one in the town, near a plot of ground called in old
writs the Kirkyard ; one in Glenprosen, which con-
tinued to be used till the erection of the modern mission
church there ; one at a place called Chapeltown, 3^
miles N by W of the town ; one at Kilnhill, 2 miles
E by N of the town ; and one near Ballinshae, 3 miles
ESE, the site of which, still enclosed with a M'all, was
used as a family burying-place. Four public schools —
Carroch, Glenprosen, Padanaram, and Roundyhill —
with respective accommodation for 50, 50, 60, and 80
children, had (1881) an average attendance of 50, 50,
61, and 68, and grants of £33, 14s. 6d.,£35, 6s. , £41, 12s.,
and£50, 16.S. Valuation (1857) £21,850, (1883) £31,910,
8s. 7d., ;)/(« £1762 for railway. Pop. (1801) 4421,
(1831) 6425, (1861) 7359, (1871) 6420, (1881) 6616, of
whom 3740 were in Kirriemuir proper, 2701 in Kirrie-
muir South Parish, and 175 in Glenprosen. — Ord. Sur.,
shs. 56, 57, 65, 1868-70.

Kirroughtree or Kirouchtree (Celt. caer-Uchtred,
'fort of Uchtred '), a mansion, with finely wooded
grounds, in Minnigatt" parish, W Kirkcudbrightshire,
1 mile NE of Newton-Stewart. Its owner, Capt. John
Maxwell Heron-Maxwell (b. 1836 ; sue. 1870), Liberal
M.P. for the county since 1880, holds 12,300 acres in the
shire, valued at £3452 per annum. — Ord. Stir. , sh. 4,1857.
Kirtle -Bridge, a village in the SE corner of Middlebie
parish, Dumfriesshire, on the right bank of Kirtle
Water. It has a station on the Caledonian railway at
the junction of the Solway railway, 5-^ miles NNE of
Annan and 3^ ESE of Ecclefechan, under which there
is a post and railway telegraph office. Kirtle Established
chapel, in Annan parish, near the village, was built at
a cost of £500.
Kirtlefoot. See Kirtle Water.
Kirtle Water, a stream of SE Dumfriesshire, formed,
in the extreme N of Middlebie parish, by the confluence of
two head-streams, of which Winterhope Burn, rising at an

443

KIRTOMY

altitude of 1250 feet above sea-level, runs If mile south-
south-westward, whilst the otlier, rising at 890 (cet, runs
Ih mile south-by-eastward. From the point where they
nieet (570 feet), Kirtle Water grinds lej miles south-
south-westward and south-eastward through or along the
boundaries of Middlebie, Kirkpatrick-Fleming, Annan,
Dornock (detached), and Gretna, till it falls into the head
of the Solway Firth at Kirtlefoot. It traverses a vale of
much beaut}% 'richly embellished with wood ; it enfolds the
meadow of Kirkconnel burial-yard, containing the grave
of 'Fair Helen of Kirkconncl-Lee ; ' it is crossed, at
Kirtle-Bridge, by a viaduct of the Caledonian railwaj-,
comprising nine arches, each 36 feet in span ; and it
contains eels, perch, and trout, and is frequented by
salmon.— 0?y;. Sur., shs. 10, 6, 1864-63.

Kirtomy. See Faer.

Kirton. See Kikkto?!'.

Kishorn, a sea-loch of Applecross parish, SW Eoss-
shire, 5J miles W of Jeantown or Lochcarron. Pro-
jecting from the N side of Loch Can-on, opposite
Plockton,it penetrates 3| miles north-eastward; contracts
from 1 J to i mile ; and receives, at its head, the Kishorn
rivulet, rising at an altitude of 1000 feet, and running
4J miles southward. At its mouth lies Kishorn Island
{2h X 1 furl. ; 50 feet high). A post office and a new
public school are designated of Kishorn. A written
charm for the cure of toothache, bought from a pro-
fessional witch at Kishorn, and worn by a shepherd in
1855, is now in the Edinburgh Antiquarian Museum. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 81, 1882.

Eismull, an ancient castle and a small bay in the S
of Barra island, Outer Hebrides, Inverness-shire. The
castle, crowning a small rock in the middle of the ba}-,
was the residence of the Macneils of Barra. Completely
encompassed with deep water, it comprises strong walls
60 feet high, enclosing a lofty square keep, and appears
to be more than 600 years old ; but, though weather-
worn and dilapidated, is still tolerably entire.

Kittybrewster. See Abekdeen.

Klett or A'Chleit, an islet (2^ x i furl. ; 120 feet high)
in Assynt parish, Sutherland, olf the mouth of Loch Inver
and Enard Bay, 4| miles AVSW of Lochinver village.

Knaik, a rivulet of Ardoch parish, Perthshire, rising
at a spot 4J miles S by W of Comrie and 1470 feet
above sea-level, and running 9| miles south-eastward
past Braco Castle, the Roman camp of Ardoch, and
Braco village, till, after a total descent of 1000 feet, it
falls into Allan Water in the vicinity of Greenloaning
railway station. — Ord. Sur., sh. 39, 1869.

Enapdale, a district of Argyllshire. It is bounded
on the N by Loch Crinan, the Crinan Canal, and Loch
Gilp, which separate it from Lorn and Argyll proper ;
on the E by Loch Fyne, which separates it from Cowal ;
on the S by Tarbert isthmus and the Lochs Tarbert,
which separate it from Kintyre ; on the W by the Islay
Sea and the Sound of Jura, which separate it from Islay
and Jura. Its greatest length, from N to S, is 27
miles ; and its greatest breadth is 9 miles. It is pre-
vented only by the narrow Tarbert isthmus from being
a continuation northward of the peninsula of Kintyre ;
and it is so deeply indented on the W by Lochs Caolis-
port and Swin as to be it.'elf, in a great measure,
cut into three peninsulas — the largest between West
Loch Tarbert and Loch Caolisport ; the smallest be-
tween Loch Swin and the Sound of Jura. It now is
not a political division of the county, but is placed
partly in the political division of Argyll proper, and
partly in that of Islay. It formerly was all one pai-ish,
but now is divided into the two parishes of North
Knnpdale and South Knapdale, and part of the parish
of Kilcalmonell and Kilberry. It anciently was called
Kilvick-Charmaig, signifying 'the church or burying-
ground of the son of Carmaig ; ' and the Cai-maig to
whom that name alludes is said to have been an
Irish missionary, who first preaclied Christianity to
the natives. Its present name is com])ounded of two
Celtic words signifying ' a rounded hill ' and ' a plain ; '
indicates a country inainly composed of rounded hills
and intersecting dales ; and is perfectly descriptive of
444

KNAPDALE, SOUTH

the district's surface. The two clans Macmillan and
Macneil seem to have anciently possessed all Knap-
dale, but they now are very sparsely found within its
limits. See Capt. T. P. White's Archceological Sketches
in Knajidale (Edinb. 1875).

Knapdale, North, a ])arish in Knapdale territorial
district and Islay political district, Argyllshire. Formed
out of the large old parish of Knapdale in 1734, it in-
cludes the port of Crinan and the small village of
Bellanoch, 6 milesNWof Ardrishaig. It is bounded N
by the Crinan Canal, E by South Knapdale, S by the
Atlantic, and W by the Sound of Jura. Its utmost
length, from N to S, is 16 miles ; its iitmost breadth is
6 miles ; and its land area is 26,293 acres. A number
of small islands, including the inhabited ones of Danna
and Ulva, lie off the W coast. Loch Swin, from foot to
head, penetrates the interior, and peninsulates the north-
western district at three different points. The coast,
along the W and within Loch Swin, is fully 50 miles in
extent ; its shores are much diversified by rocky blulfs
and abrupt projections, which rise in many places boldly
to heights of 300 feet ; but it includes some reaches of
gentle slope or moderate acclivity. The interior mainly
consists of hill and dale, being much diversified in both
its upland and its lowland portions, and possessing a large
aggregate of wood and water. It abounds, especially
round the shores of Loch Swin, in picturesque close scenes;
and commands from many vantage-grounds extensive
and magnificent views. The loftiest height is Cruach-
Lussach (2004 feet) ; other conspicuous eminences are
Dunardary, Duntaynish, Ervary, and Arichonan. The
principal heights, culminating in Cruach-Lussach, form
a chain or continuous watershed, extending from NE to
SW ; and the subordinate heights lie variously arranged
on the two sides of this chain, declining shorewards into
gentle declivities ; whilst a tract between the western
ones and Loch Swin, with a breadth of nearly | mile, is
a slightly inclined plain. Several considerable burns,
one of them making a beautiful cascade near inverlussa
church, rise in the interior and run to the sea ; some
twenty-one fresh-water lakes, the largest not more than
3 miles in circumference, lie dispersed through the in-
terior, principally in the N ; and excellent springs, some
of them strongly impregnated with lime, are abundant.
The soil of the arable lands is sandy, gravelly, mossy, or
loamy ; and, at the SW extremity, is rich, friable, and
very productive. About one-eighth of the entire area is
in tillage ; woods and plantations cover more than 2000
acres ; and the rest of the land is either pastoral or waste.
Antiquities, other than Castle-Swin, are a mound near
Crinan on which the Lords of the Isles are said to have
held courts of justice, remains of three old forts or
watch-towers, the ruin of the chapel of St Carmaig, an
ancient cross 9 feet high, and the ruins of the religious
house of Drimnacraig. Major-General Sir Archibald
Campbell (d. 1791), who figured in the American war,
and was afterwards governor of Jamaica, was a native.
In 1796 Thomas Campbell was tutor at the old house of
Downie ; and the hill of Arichonan, which he is said to
have frequented in his leisure hours, still bears the name
of ' Poet's Hill. ' Malcolm of Poltalloch is the chief pro-
prietor, 1 other holding an annual value of more than
£500, and 1 of less than £300. North Knapdale is in
the presbytery of Inveraray and synod of Argyll ; the
living is worth £300, exclusive of manse and glebe. The
parish church, at Kilmichael Inverlussa, was built in
1820, and, as recently altered, contains 200 sittings; and
Tayvallich chapel of ease, on the other side of Loch
Swin, 3 miles distant by sea but 10 by land, was built
in 1827, and contains 700 sittings. There is also a Free
church ; and three public schools — Ashfield, Bellanoch,
and Tayvallich — with respective accommodation for 39,
8C, and 100 children, had (1881) an average attendance of
14, 54, and 28, and grants of £31, 16s. 3d. , £70, 13s. , and
£37. Valuation (1860) £5638, (1883) £6430, 8s. lOd)
Pop. (1801) 2401, (1831) 2583, (1861) 1327, (1871) 1059,
(ISSl) 927, of whom 635 were Gaelic-speaking.

Elnapdale, South, a parish in Knapdale territorial
district, and in Argyll political district, Argyllshire.

KNIGHTSWOOD

It contains the post-town and harbour of Ardrishaig,
the post-office hamlet of Achahoish, and part of the
post-towu of TaFvBEET ; and it enjoj-s from these places
regular steamboat communication. Formed out of the
large old parish of Knapdale in 1734, it is bounded X
by North Knapdale and the Criuan Canal, and S bj'
Kilcalmonell and Kilberry. Its utmost length, from N
to S, is 17 miles ; its utmost breadth is 7 miles ; and
its land area is 52,560 acres. Several islets lie off the
W coast ; and, though uninhabited, afford good pas-
turage. The E coast, with an extent of 12 miles,
presents a slightly undidated shore-line, and a plea-
santly-diversified, hniy seaboard. The "W coast is distin-
guished chiefly by the ascent from it of Loch Caolisport
up the boundary ^th North Knapdale ; has several fine
baj's, which aflbrd safe anchorage ; and presents shores
and seaboard, partlj" bold and parth' gradual. The
interior, for the most part, is rough upland. A range,
called Sliabach-Goail, extends right across it ; contains
the highest ground, with mountain elevation above
sea-level ; and commands one of the most extensive,
varied, and gi-andl}^ picturesque views in Great Britain,
from Islay to the Perthshire Grampians, and from Mull
and Ben Cruachan to the North of Ireland, witli every-
where a crowded intervening space of lofty heights and
belts of sea. Other hills, less lofty and interesting,
extend parallel to this principal range, and are separated
from one another by deep, well -sheltered vales. Burns
and torrents are numerous, and the larger ones are sub-
ject to such winter floods as render them in many parts
impassable. Five or six fresh-water lakes lie in hollows ;
but, with one or two exceptions, they can be seen only
from the summits of the highest hills ; and they add
very little to the beauty or interest of the landscape.
The extent of arable land bears but a small proportion
to that of waste and pasture lands, and is very much
intersected by hills and marshes. The soil, on some of
the low grounds, is loamy ; on most of the other arable
grounds, is of a mossy nature, incumbent upon sand.
"Wood, both natural and planted, covers a considerable
area. A lead mine was for some time worked on Inver-
neill estate. Antiquities are remains of three, and the
sites of four, pre-Reformation chapels. Mansions,
noticed separately, are Auchindarroch, Barmore, Erins,
InverneiU, Ormsary, and Stonefield ; and 7 proprietors
hold each an annual value of £500 and ujiwards, 9 of be-
tween £100 and £500, 5 of from £50 to £100, and 30 of
from £20 to £50. Giving off' the whole of Ardrishaig
quoad sacra parish and portions of those of Tarbert and
Lochgilphead, South Knapdale is in the presbytery of
Inveraray and sj^nod of Argjdl ; the living is worth
£234. There are two parish churches, the one at Acha-
hoish, near the manse ; the other at Inverneill, 6 miles
distant. Both were built in 1775, and each contains
250 sittings. Free churches are in Ardrishaig, Loch-
gilphead, and Tarbert ; and two public schools, Inver-
neill and Ormsary, with respective accommodation for
34 and 69 children, had (1881) an average attendance
of 17 and 18, and grants of £29, 2s. and £25, 13s.
Valuation (1860) £7357, (1883) £13,111, 3s. lid. Pop.
(1801) 1716, (1831) 2137, (1861) 2519, (1871) 2695,
(1881) 2536, of whom 1447 were Gaelic-speaking, and
453 were in South Knapdale ecclesiastical parish.

Knightswood, a village in New Kilpatrick parish,
SE Dumbartonshire, 3 miles W by N of ^larvhill and 5
NW of Glasgow. Pop. (1861) 319, (1871) 636, (1881)
790.— Orrf. Sur., sh. 30, 1866.

Knock. See Geaxge, Banffshire.

Knock, a village in Westerkirk parish, Dumfries-
shire, on the right bank of the Esk, 6^ miles NW of
Langholm.

Knock. See Rexff.ew.

Knock or Knockhall Castle. See Foverax.

Knock. See Edinkillie.

Knock, a quoad sacra parish in Stornoway parish,
Lewis, Outer Hebrides, Ross-shire. Comprising the
ancient chapelry of Uie or Eye, which included tlie Aird
peninsula, it contains a village of the name of Knock,
the site of the present church, 5 miles E by S of the

KNOCKANDO

post-town Stornoway. Knock is in the presbytery of
Lewis and sjTiod of Glenelg ; the living is worth £140.
A Free church is 2 miles further. Pop. (1871) 2577,
(1881) 2990, of whom 2808 were Gaelic-speaking.— (y>-J.
Sur., sh. 105, 1858.

Knockando (Gael, cnoc-an-dubh, ' the black hill '), a
parish near the middle of the south-eastern border of
Elginshire, comprehending the ancient parishes of
Knockando and Macallan (Gael. Ma Calen, ' St Colin ').
The former was anciently a vicarage of Inveravon and
the latter of Bottarie. They were united from 1646 to
16S3, and separate from 1683 to 1689, from which time
they have been again united. It is bounded NE by
Rothes, E and SE%y Banffshire (where, at the exti'eme
SE corner, for about 1 mile, the parish of Inveravon
comes in below the mouth of the river Avon), S by
Banflshii-e, SW by Cromdale, W by Edinkillie and by
a detached portion of Nairnshire included in that parish,
and NW by Dallas. The boundary along the whole of
the SE and S for about 14 miles is the mid-bed of the
river Spej^, while along the greater part of the SW side,
from near Lynemore north-westwards, it follows the
course of the Allt a' Ghcallaidh to Cam Kitty ; else-
where it is purely artificial. The greatest length in a
straight line, from N of E to S of W, from below
Craigellachie Bridge on the E to Carn Kitty on the W,
is 12| miles ; and the greatest breadth, from the point
where Knockando, Dallas, and Rothes meet on the N to
the Spey at Delnapot on the S, is 7S miles, and from
this it tapers irregularly to both ends. The land area
is 28,134 acres, of which probably less than 4000 acres
are under tillage, and about the same amount under
wood, while the rest of the parish is moorland. The
surface is irregular, but the general inclination is towards
the S, the ground sloping from the NE and NW borders
to the river. Except for a short distance between Easter
and Wester Elchies, near the E end of the parish, and
at a few other places where there are alluvial patches,
the river banks are steep and covered with trees, and
rise rapidly to elevations of 439 feet above Craigellachie
Bridge, 745 at Archiestown, 933 above Pitchroy, and
1001' at the Hill of Delnapot on the extreme S. From
these last the heights rise on the SW and W by James
Roy's Cairn (1691 feet), to Carn Kitty (1711), and thence
pass eastward by Cam Shalag (1543), the Hill of
Slackmore (1166), Clune (1035), Cam na Cailleichie
(1313), across the shoulder of the Mannoch Hill (1013),
and so by the Hill of Stob (1009) and the shoulder of
Hunt Hill back to the high ground above Craigellachie
Bridge. The hills are smooth and rounded, and by no
means picturesque, but the wooded portions along the
Spey at Easter Elchies, Wester Elchies, Knockando
House, and Pitchroy are very pretty. The parish is
drained on the SW by the Allt a' Gheallaidl) already
mentioned ; in the centre by the Allt Arder, the Burn
of Knockando, and the Bum of Ballintomb, which all
enter the Spey to the S of the church ; and in the E by
some smaller streams. Between Carn Kitty and Clune
on the NW border of the parish are the small loch of
Little Benshalag and Loch of the Cowlatt. During the
great floods of 1829 the burns of Allt a' Gheallaidh and
Knockando, as well as the river Spey, did a great amount
of mischief. The first carried away the corn-mill and saw-
mill at Pitchroy at the S corner of the parish ; and the
bench of the saw-mill, 11§ feet long, 4i broad, and Sihigh,
containing two circular saws and with 112 pounds of
iron attached to it, was carried down the Spey for nearly
13 miles. The Knockando Burn carried away a carding-
mill, a meal-mill, and several houses, all situated below
the church. 'After the flood,' says Sir Thomas Dick
Lauder in his Account of the Great Floods of August
1829, 'the prospect liere was melancholy. The burn
that formerly wound through the beautifiil haugh above
the promontory, had cut a channel as broad as that of
the Spey from one end of it to the other. The whole
wood was gone ; tlie carding-mill liad disappeared, the
miller's house was in ruins, and the banks below were
strewed with pales, gates, bridges, rafts, engines, wool,
yarn, and lialf-woveu webs, all utterly destroyed. A

445

KNOCKANDO

new road was recently made in this parish, and all the
burns were substantially bridged ; but with the excep-
tion of one arch, all yielded to the pressure of the flood.'
Before 1829 the Allt Arder had a high fall about 300
yards from the junction with the Spey, but then it
changed its course, and in one night cut out a ravine
about 60 feet deep and 300 feet wide at the top. The
respect still entertained for its powers is shown by the
enormous disproportion between the small stream and
the viaduct — consisting of two iron girder spans of 40
feet and one of 50 feet — that carries the Speyside rail-
way some 50 feet above. There is excellent trout and
salmon fishing in the Spey, and the larger burns contain
trout. The soil near the Spej^ is light, but on the
higher ground there is a black gravelly loam or heavy
clay passing as it approaches the moors into moss, a
good deal of which is still improvable. The underlying
rocks are granite and schists. The only village is
Archiestown near the E end of the parish, 3^ miles from
Craigellachie Bridge, 3 NW of Aberlour station, and 2
S by E of Carron station, both on the Speyside section
of the Great North of Scotland railway. Archiestown
was founded in 1760 by Sir Archibald Grant of Mony-
musk, on an open moor, called the Moor of Ballintomb,
and though it did not at first thrive, and was almost
entirely destroyed by an accidental fire in 1783, it is
now an average country village. There is a post office
under Craigellachie, which is the telegraph and money
order office. The parish church is 3 miles to the W of
Archiestown, and almost midway between the eastern
and western limits. It is a long narrow building with
outside stairs to the galleries, and the rising-ground on
which it stands commands a wide and good view. Built
in 1757, almost on the same site as the old one, it has
since been twice repaired, and contains 477 sittings.

In the churchyard are three sculptured slabs said to
have been brought thither over 50 years ago from an
old burying-ground called Pulvrenan, on the bank of
the Spey, below Knockando House. They have been
figured in the Spalding Club, Sculptured Stones of Scot-
land, vol. ii., plate cv. One of them has an inscription
in runes. There is another small burying-ground, that
of the old parish of Macallan, at Easter Elchies, where
there was a church which became ruinous about 1760.
The Easter Elchies burial -aisle still remains. A small
mission church in the Elchies district, in the E end of
the parish, with 250 sittings, was built in 1873-74 at a
cost of £828 ; and there are also a Free church and
a U.P. church. There is a good road running through
the whole length of the parish, in a direction more
or less nearly parallel to the Spey, and from this a
good road branches off a little to tlie N of the church,
and passes over the moors to Dallas. The Spey-
side sec !on of the Great North of Scotland Rail-
way system enters the parish at Carron, near the
middle of the SE border, and runs parallel to, and close
to, the Spey for 6 miles, till it crosses the river and
returns into Bantfsliire at the S corner at Delnapot.
The mansions are Easter Elchies, Wester Elchies,
Laggan House, and Knockando House, all close to the
Spey. Easter Elchies now belongs to the Earl of Sea-
field, an<l is a plain building with a corner turret. It
belonged to Patrick Grant, Lord Elchies, Judge of Ses-
sion (1690-1754), who took his title from it, and from
whose time the originnl building dates, but it was almost
entirely relmilt in 1857. His sou, Baron Grant, sold
it to the Earl of Findlater, from whom it passed by
inheritance to the Seafields. There are good gardens
adjoining the house. Wester Elchies, about 2 miles
farther W, is of various dates, part of it being a frag-
ment of an old fortalice. In the entrance hall are two
chairs from the old castle of Rothes, and in the grounds
are several sculptured stones from an ancient Hindu
temple at Ghur. Close by the house is an observatory
erected by J. W. Grant, Esq., father of the present
proprietor, who held the estate from 1828 to 1865. On
either side of the doorway is a sphinx, and above is the
inscription, ' He made the stars also.' It used formerly
to contain a giant telescope, the trophy of the Exhibition
446

KNOCKBAIN

of 1851. The site of the mansion is picturesque, and the
grounds well wooded. The present owner is Henry Alex-
ander Grant, Esq. (b. 1827 ; sue. 1877), who holds
20,462 acres in Elgin and 4212 in Banflshire, valued
at £4941 and £1285 per annum. Farther W, on
the same estate, are Laggan House and Knockando
House. The former is a building of 1861, in the old
Scottish style, with walls of red brick and granite and
freestone facings. The latter is a plain two-story
building, dating from 1732. In the extreme E end of
the parish is the rock of Lower Craigellachie, which
marks the eastern end of the former domains of Clan
Grant ; Upper Craigellachie, which marked the western
end, being near Aviemore. On the Spey, a little above
the mouth of the Knockando Burn, is the famous rock
of Tomdow, which is very dangerous for floats of timber
passing down the river, and where in heavy floods the
rush and roar of water is terrific, it being said locally
that ' Spey turns up the white o' her een after she gets
a drink in Badenoch.' At Dellagyle is a cave that
afforded shelter to the well-lcnown cateran James-a-
Tuam (one of the Grants of Carron), who figures pro-
minently in Spalding's History of the Trubles in
Scotland, and it is also traditionally associated with
the equally notorious Macpherson of Macpherson's Rant
(See Banff). There is a fragment of an old stone
circle, and names indicating the sites of one or two
religious houses. The people are engaged in agricul-
ture, the only other industries being a distillery near
Easter Elchies, and another near Knockando House.
The Messrs Grant of Manchester, who are said to have
been the prototypes of Dickens' Brothers Cheeryble in
Nicholas Nickleby, were born in this parish. Knoc-
kando is in the presbytery of Aberlour and the synod
of Moray, and the living is worth £199. Four schools
— Archiestown, Elchies, Kirdels female, and Knockando
— with accommodation respectively for 90, 150, 69, and
136 children, had (1881) an average attendance of 47,
49, 29, and 97, and grants of £42, 12s., £42, 16s. 6d.,
£24, 2s., and £93, 6s. 6d. Valuation (1860) £5176,
(1883) £7860, Is., of which H. A. Grant, Esq., held
£4793 and the Earl of Seafield £1220. Pop. (1755)
1267, (1801) 1432, (1841) 1676, (1871) 1909, (1881) 1838.
— Ord.. Sur., sh. 85, 1876. For an account of the
Wester Elchies Observatory, see Good JFords for 1862.

Knockard and Erropie, two conjoint villages in
Barvas parish, Lewis, Outer Hebrides, Ross-shire, 1 mile
S of the Butt of Lewis and 26 miles N by E of Storno-
way. Pop. (1871) 527, (1881) i08.—Ord. Sur., sh. Ill,
1858.

Knockbain, a coast parish of SE Ross-shire, whose
church stands 1 mile S of Munlochy, and 5f miles N
by W {via Kessock Ferry) of Inverness, under which
there is a post oflice of Knockbain. Containing also the
hamlets of Kessock, Munlochy, and Charleston, each of
the two former with a post office under Inverness, it
consists of the two ancient parishes of Kilmuir- Wester
and Suddie, united in 1756 ; and it took the name of
Knockbain (Gael, cnoc-bdn, 'white knoll') from the
eminence on which its modern church was built. It
is bounded NE and E Ijy Avoch, SE by the Moray
Firth, S by the Beauly Firth, SW and W by Killearnan,
and NW by Urquhart. Its utmost length, from N to
S, is 6 miles ; its breadth varies between If and 5 J
miles ; and its area is 12,649 acres, of which 538 are
foresliore and 75^ water. The shore-line, 8 miles long,
in the N is deeply indented by Munlochy Bay, and
everywhere is fringed by a narrow, low, flat .strip of
old sea-margin, from wliich the surface rises rather
rapidly to 633 feet at Ord Hill, 400 at Craigiehow,
482 at Drumdeufit Hill, and 566 near Upper Knock-
bain in the extreme N. The rocks belong to the Old
Red Sandstone formation ; and the soil is extremely
various, comprising sandy or clayish loam, alluvium,
gravel, and peat, with here and there a pretty strong
l)an. Great improvements have been effected since
1850 in the way of reclamation, redraining, building,
wire-fencing, etc. ; and a largish proportion of the entire
area is under plantations. On the Drumderfit ridge

KNOCKBREX

KYLE

above Munlochy are numerous cairns ; and a large one
on the western part of the ridge is believed to com-
memorate the Battle of Blair-na-coi ('field of lamenta-
tion'), in which, in 1340, the JIacdonalds were routed
by a niglit attack of the townsfolk of Inverness. Other
antiquities are a vitrified fort on Ord Hill ; an earth fort
on Craig-caistal, Lundie ; 'James's Temple ' on Drumder-
fit ; hut circles at Taerdore, Arpafeelie ; stone circles at
Muirton, Belmaduthie, and the ' Temple ; ' and crema-
tion burial mounds discovered at Drumnamarg in 1881.
General John Randall Mackenzie, who fell at the battle
of Talavera in 1809, was a native. Allangrange House,
2 miles SW of Munlochy, is the seat of James Fowler
Mackenzie, Esq. (b. 1833 ; sue. 1849), who holds 2742
aci'es in the shire, valued at £1693 per annum. Other
mansions, noticed separately, are Belmaduthie and
Drynie ; and the property is divided among 6, 1 hold-
ing an annual value of over £4000, 3 of between £1000
and £2000, and 2 of between £400 and £600. Knock-
bain is in the presbytery of Chanonry and synod of
Ross ; the living is worth £297. The parish church,
enlarged about 1816, contains 750 sittings. There are
a Free church and Arpafeelie Episcopal church, St
John's (1816 ; 200 sittings) ; and Drumsmittal public,
Munlochy public, Upper Knockbain public, and Arpa-
feelie Episcopal schools, with respective accommodation
for 120, 140, 117, and 89 children, had (1881) an
average attendance of 76, 62, 55, and 58, and grants of
£66, 16s., £35, 17s., £42, 4.s., and £50, 5s. Valuation
(1860) £5176, (1882) £10,049, 14s. 9d. Pop. (1801)
1859, (1841) 2565, (1861) 2485, (1871) 2155, (1881)
1866, of whom 1071 were Gaelic-speaking. — Orel. Sm:,
shs. 83, 84, 1881-76.

Knockbrex, a mansion in Borgue parish, Kirkcud-
brightshire, near the shore of Fleet Bay, 5J miles S by
W of Gatehouse.

Knock Castle, a mansion in Largs parish, Ayrshire,
near the shore of the Firth of Clyde, 2J miles N by W
of Largs town. Comprising two buildings, separate one
from another, it is partly a renovated ancient baronial
fortalice, partly a modern, magnificent, castellated
edifice in the old Scottish style. Its owner, George
Elder, Esq. (b. 1816), holds 153 acres in the shire,
valued at £418 per annum. Knock Hill (777 feet), IJ
mile to the NE, was used in old times as a beacon
station, and commands an extensive and very brilliant
view. From about 1400 till 1650 the Knock estate
belonged to a younger branch of the Erasers of Lovat.
—Ord. Sur., sh. 29, 1873.

Knock Castle, a ruin in Glenmuick parish, Aberdeen-
shire, on a beautiful eminence, in the peninsula between
the rivers Muick and Dee, 2 miles WSW of Ballater.
It once was a strong and stately edifice belonging to
the Gordons.

Knock Castle, a ruin on a rocky headland of the SE
coast of Sleat parish, Isle of Skye, Inverness-shire, 4
miles SSW of Isle Ornsay. It once was a stronghold
of the Barons of Sleat.
Knockdavie. See Burntisland.
Knockdolian, an 18th century mansion in Colmonell
parish, Ayrshire, on the right bank of the Stinchar,
and at the NE base of conical Knockdolian Hill (869
feet), 2 miles W by S of the village. Its owner,
William M'Connel, Esq. (b. 1809), holds 3230 acres in
the shire, valued at £2031 per annum. Ruined Knock-
dolian Castle stands ^ mile to the N\V. — Orel. Sur., sh.
7, 1863.

Knockdow or Knockdhu, a mansion in Inverchaolain
parish, Argyllshire, near the right bank of Ardyne
Burn, 2 miles NXW of Toward. It is the seat of
James Lamont, Esq. (b. 1828 ; sue. 1861), author,
Arctic explorer, and Liberal M. P. for Buteshire 1865-68,
who holds 6277 acres in the shire, valued at £1776 per
annum.— 0-/< f^ur., sh. 29, 1873.
Knockendoch. See Criffel.
Knockentiber. See Kxockintiber.
Knockespock, a large old mansion in Clatt parish,
Aberdeenshire, 4J miles S by W of Kennetlimont
station. Its owner, Mrs Fellowes-Gordon, holds 6709

acres in the shire, valued at £3438 per annum. — Ord.
Sur., sh. 76, 1S74.

Knockfarrel, a conical eminence (579 feet) in Fodderty
parish, Ross-shire, on the S side of Strathpeffer vale,
\\ mile E by N of Strathpeffer Spa. Rising from the
vale in so steep an ascent as to look almost mural, it is
crowned with a vitrified fort, measuring 420 feet by
120, and defended by breastworks ; and it commands a
noble view to Craigphadrick in the vicinity of Inverness,
and to the X Sutor of Cromarty. — Ord. Sur. , sh. 83, 1881.
Knockfin or Fingal's Fort. See Dun Fionn.
Knockfin Heights. See Halkirk and Kildonan.
Knockgray, an estate, with a mansion (a farmhouse
now), in Carsphairn parish, N Kirkcudbrightshire, 11
miles SE of Dalmellington. Acquired by the Kennedies
towards the close of the 17th century, it is now the pro-
perty of Capt. Alex. William Maxwell Clark-Kennedy,
F.L.S., F.R.G.S. (b. 1851 ; sue. 1867), who holds 3609
acres in the shire, valued at £1072 per annum. — Ord.
Sur., sh. 8, 1863.

Knockhall Castle. See Foveran.
Knockhill, an estate, with a modern mansion, in
Hoddam parish, Dumfriesshire, 1^ mile WSW of Eccle-
fechan.

Knockhillie or Knockhooly, a hamlet in Colvend parish,
SE Kirkcudbrightshire, on the lett bank of Southwick
Burn, 8 miles ESE of Dalbeattie.

Knockinaam Lodge, a charming marine residence on
the DuNSKEY estate, Portpatrick parish, W Wigtown-
shire, close to the shore of Port o' Spittal Bay, 3 miles
SE of Portpatrick town.

Knockinnan, a ruined fortalice on the coast of Latheron
parish, Caithness, 2 miles NNE of Dunbeath, 5 furlongs
nearer which is Knockinnan inn.

Knockintiber, a village in Kilmaurs parish, Ayrshire,
2 miles WNW of Kilmarnock.

Knocknalling, an estate, with a modern mansion, in
Kells parish, Kirkcudbrightshire, near the right bank
of the Ken and the left of confluent Pulharrow Burn,
6 miles NNW of Xew Galloway. Its owner, John
Lawson Kennedy, Esq. (b. 1816), holds 2646 acres in
the shire, valued at £1015 per annum. — Ord. Sur., sh.
9, 1863.
Knock of Braemoray. See Edinkillie.
Knowe, a hamlet, with a post office under Kirkcowan
and a public school, in Peuuinghame parish, NE Wig-
townshire.

Knowesouth, an estate, Avith a mansion, in Bedrule
parish, Roxburghshire, near the right bank of the
Teviot, 4 miles W by N of Jedburgh. Its owner,
Gideon Pott, Esq. of Dod (b. 1824 ; sue. 1862), holds
1332 acres in the shire, valued at £1158 per annum. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 17, 1864.

Knoydart, a district and a quoad sacra parish in
Glenelg parish, W Inverness-shire. The district is
bounded on the N by Loch Hourn, on the E by Kilmoni-
vaig, on the S by Loch Nevis, on the AV by the Sound
of Sleat. Its greatest length, from E to W, is 15 miles;
its greatest breadth is 9 miles ; and its area is about 85
square miles. The surface is mostly mountainous, yet
includes a considerable aggregate of arable land ; and it
abounds in features of romantic and grandly picturesque
scenery. Guseran Water rises on the E border, and
runs through the middle to the Sound of Sleat ; and
Inverie House stands on Loch Nevis, 10 miles SSE of
Isle Ornsay and 54 WSW of Fort Augustus, and is the
seat of John Baird, Esq. of Lochwood and Knoydart (b.
1852 ; sue. 1876), who holds 60,000 acres in the shire,
valued at £4033 per annum. The quoad sacra parish,
which is nearly conterminous with the district, and
which sprang from a mission station of the Royal
Bounty, is in the presbytery of Lochcarron and synod
of Glenelg. The stipend is £120. A Roman Catholic
church, St Anthony's, was built in 1850, and contains
300 sittings. Pop. of parish (1871) 470, (1881) 437.

Kyle, an ancient castle and a district in Ayrshire.
The castle stood in Auchinleck parish, on an elevated
tongue of land between confiuent Gelt and Glenmore
Waters, 6 miles E of Cumnock. Unknown to history,

447

KYLE-AKIN

as to either its origin or its early proprietors, it passed
into the possession of the ilarquis of Bute ; and is now
represented by only slight remains. The district, the
middle one ot' the three divisions of the county, has
often, in common with Coilsfield, Coyle river, and
Coyltou parish, been thought to have got its name from
'Auld King Coil,' a Pictish king or reguhis, said to
have been killed in a battle fought in Coyltou parish.
It seems, however, to have anciently been all or nearly
all covered with forest, so may very probably have got
its name from the Celtic Coille, 'a wood;' and it
ranked, in the Middle Ages, as a bailiwick. It is
bounded on the N by the river Irvine, which divides it
from Cunninghame, on the NE by Lanarkshire, on the
E by Dumfriesshire, on the S by Kirkcudbrightshire, on
the SW by the river Doon, which divides it from Carrick,
and on the W by the Firth of Clyde. Its greatest length,
from E to "\V, "is 28 miles ; its greatest breadth is 23
miles ; and its extent of coast, measured in a straight
line, is nearly 12 miles. The river Ayr, rising on its
eastern border, and traversing it westward to the Firth,
divides it into Kyle Stewart on the N and King's Kyle
on the S. Other chief streams are the Cessnock, run-
ning to the Irvine ; the Lugar and the Coyle, running
to the AjT ; and the Nith, rising on the southern
border, and making a circuitous run of lof miles to the
boundary with Dumfriesshire. The parishes are Dun-
donald, Riccarton, Galston, Craigie, Symington, Mauch-
line, Sorn, Muirkirk, Monkton, Tarbolton, Newton, St
Quivox, Stair, Auchinleck, Ayr, Cojdton, Ochiltree, Old
Cumnock, New Cumnock, Dalr\Tnple, and Dalmelling-
ton ; and all are in the presbytery of Ayr. The poor-
law combination of Kyle, with a poorhouse at Ayr,
comprehends the parishes of Auchinleck, Ayr, Coylton,
New Cumnock, Old Cumnock, Dalmellington, Dal-
rymple, Mauchline, Muirkirk, Newton, Ochiltree, St
Quivox, and Sorn.

Kyle-Akin, a village on the NE verge of Strath parish,
Isle of Skye, Inverness-shire, at Kyle-Akin strait be-
tween Skye and the mainland of Ross-shire. The
village, 7 miles SW of Lochalsh church, and 8 ENE of
Broadford, was founded by the third Lord Macdonald,
on a ground plan, as an intended considerable seaport,
to consist chiefly of two-story houses with attics ; but
has never yet exceeded, and gives no prospect of ex-
ceeding, the limits of a mere village. A main thorough-
fare between Skj'e and the mainland, and the seat or
meeting-place of the synod of Gleuelg, it has a post
office under Lochalsh, with money order, savings' bank,
and telegraph departments, a good inn, a chapel of ease
(1S75), a public school, and a regular ferry. Castle-
Maoil, the neighbouring ruin of a strong old fortalice,
has been separately noticed. Kyle-Akin strait, which
gave name to the village, got its affix from King Hakon
of Norway, on occasion of his expedition against Scot-
land in 1263. At the SW extremity of Loch Alsh, and
forming the north-western termination of the long
Sound of Sleat, which separates Skye from the mainland
of Inverness-shire, it looks to be so narrow that a com-
mon fable represents the old method of crossing it to
have been by leaping ; averages \ mile in breath for
about 1 mile in length ; was originally designed to be
the terminus of the Dingwall and Skye railway, which
eventually stopped short at Strome Ferry ; and is over-
looked by a lighthouse, showing a fixed light visible at
the distance of 11 nautical miles, red towards the S,
and white towards Loch Alsh and the Sound of Apple-
cross.

Kyle of AssjTit. See Kylesku.

Kyle of Durness, an elongated bay or narrow firth in
Durness parish, Sutherland, separating the district of
Durness proper from the district of Parf. Receiving at
its head the river Dionard, it goes 5^ miles northward
to Durness or Baile na Cille Bay (IJ x 1^ to 2 miles) ;
itself has a varying width of 24 and 6i furlongs, and is
barred by a series of shallows which freiiuently shift
their position. It becomes so nearly bare at ebb tide
as then to appear little else than an exi)anse of sand ;
stems to be gradually filling up with silt and debris
448

KYLES OF BUTE

brought down by the Dionard and some lateral stream-
lets ; and is little visited by vessels either for commerce
or for shelter.— Orel. Sur., sh. 114, 1880.

Kyle of Laxford. See Laxfoed.

Kyle of Sutherland, the narrow uppermost reach of
the Dornoch Firth, between Ross-shire and Sutherland,
extending from the strait at Bonar-Bridge, 4| miles
west-north-westward to the influx of the rivers Oikell
and Shin. Its width varies between 150 \ards and 6|
furlongs. Fairs, bearing its name, are held adjacent to
its lower end at Bonar on the Mondays in July, August,
and September before Beauly. — Ord. Sur., sh. 102,
1881.

Kyle of Tongue, a narrow sea-loch or firth in Tongue
parish, Sutherland, dividing the northern district of
that parish into nearly equal parts. Opening from the
North Sea at Ellan-nan-Rou, and containing in its
mouth the small, low Rabbit Islands, it penetrates 9^
miles south-south-westward, its breadth contracting
from 2| miles to almost a point. It is encinctured by
grand scenery, with the magnificent mountains of Ben
Hope (3040 feet) and Ben Loyal (3504) overhanging
its head ; has shifting sandbanks and small depth of
water, yet oS'ers safe anchorage to even the largest
vessels at the Rabbit Islands ; expands, on the W side
at these islands, into the beautiful, well-sheltered,
smooth-beached Bay of Talmin, one of the chief fishing
stations on the N coast of Scotland ; and forms, on the
E side, the creek of ScuUamie, the retreat of a few
fishing boats, easily convertible into a good small har-
bour.—O/t^. Sur., sh. 114, 1880.

Kyle-Rhea, a strait at the NE end of the Sound of
Sleat, between the Isle of Skye and the mainland of
Inverness-shire. It took its name, signifying ' the
King's strait,' from King Hakon of Norway's expedition
in 1263 ; it conuects the Sound of Sleat with Loch
Alsh ; and, having a width of only J mile, it is swept
by very rapid tidal currents. A lerry across it main-
tains the communication between Skye and luvergarry
(46 miles ESE) by way of Glenelg ; and has, at either
end, a pretty good inn.

Kylesku, a long, narrow sea-loch on the mutual bor-
der of EdJrachillis and Assynt parishes, W Sutherland.
Opening from the Miuch in semicircular Loch a' Chairn
Bhain or Cairnbawn, which measui'es oi miles across the
mouth, and contains a number of small islands, it
strikes, from the head of that bay, 3| miles east-south-
eastward, with an extreme width of 7 furlongs ; next
for I mile contracts to from 4 to 1^ furlong at Kylesku
Ferry ; and, | mile beyond, divides into two horns,
Lochs Glendhu and Glencoul, striking eastward
and south-eastward. With an intricate cincture, its
shores, flanks, and overhanging mountains — the monarch
of them Quinag (2653 feet) — exhibiting a series of superb
landscapes, Kylesku is swept by extrejuely rapid tides,
and enjoys great celebrity for both the quantity and
quality of its herrings. Unapool or Kylesku Inn, at
Kylesku Ferry, is 18 miles NE of Lochinver and 11 SSE
of Scourie.— Cz-rf. Sur., sh. 107, 1881.

Kyles of Bute, a semicircular belt of sea, for 16§
miles engirdling the northern half of Bute island, and
separating that island from the Cowal district of Argyll-
shire. Connecting at both ends with the Firth of Clyde,
it opens on the E, between Bogany Point in Bute and
Toward Point in Cowal, with a width of 2^ miles ; and
suddenly expands, on the Bute side, into Rothesay Bay,
soon after into Kames Bay ; whilst, at a point 4 miles
N of Rothesay, it sends off, north-north-westward into
Cowal, long mountain-screened Loch Striven. During
the first 5 miles it exhibits the character of a capacious
and most picturesque bay, with outlook to Big Cumbrae
and Ayrshire ; but afterwards, for 65 miles, it curves
gently north-westward and south-westward, with a vary-
ing width of 2 and 5^ furlongs, and displays contrac-
tions and windings like those of a river, flanked by
steep hills, rugged acclivities, and rocky eminences. In
the N, where it makes a sudden angular bend, it con-
tains Eilean Dheiukig and tluee other small rocky
islands, and there is met by Loch Riddon ; and from

KYMAH BURN

Tighnabmaicli it curves south-south-eastward, with
gradually increasiag width, till, at Ardlamont Point,
the south-western extremity of Cowal, it terminates
with a width of 2f miles, and becomes lost in the
conjoint expanse of the Sound of Bute, Kilbrannan
Sound, and Loch F3'ne. It displays, from end to end,
in many styles, and with ever-changing combinations,
a continuous series of picturesque and romantic views ;
and it is traversed throughout by the steamers plying
between Greenock and Inveraray. The Queen passed
through the Kyles on 18 Aug. 18i7. — Ord. Sur., sh.
29, 1873.
Kymah Bum. See I^■vEEAVEN.

LADYKIRK

Kype Water, a rivulet of Avondale parish, "W Lanark-
shire, risiug at an altitude of 1500 feet on Goodbush
Hill, adjacent to the boundary with Ayrshire, and
curving 8^ miles northward along the Lesmahagow and
Stonehouse borders, tUl, after a total descent of 1020
feet, it falls into the Avon at a point 1 mile SE of
Strathaven. In its upper reaches it traverses a bleak
moorland district, and is subject to violent freshets ; but,
as it approaches the Avon, it assumes a more gentle
character, though it makes a fine waterfall 50 ieet in
leap. Its left bank is flanked by Kypes Rig, culminat-
ing at a height of 1173 feet, 3^ miles' SSE of Strathaven.
— Ord. Sur., sh. 23, 1865.

LADDER BURN, a streamlet of Lochlee parish, N
Forfarshire, rising on the SE slope of Mount
Keen at an altitude of 2490 feet, and hurrying
2§ miles south-by-eastward, till, after a total
descent of 1420 feet, it falls into the Water of Mark at
a point 2h miles NW of Lochlee church. Its right
bank is flanked by a 'steep but winding path, called
the Ladder, very grand and wild,' down which the
Queen rode 20 Sept. 1861.— Ord Sur., sh. 65, 1870.

Ladders, The. See Teossachs.

Ladhope, a quoad sacra parish in Melrose parish,
Selkirk and Roxburgh shires, containing part of the
town of Galashiels. Constituted by the Court of Teinds
in 1855, it is in the presbytery of Selkirk and synod of
Merse and Teviotdale ; the living is worth £550. Pop.
(1871) 5317, (1881) 6576. See Galashiels.

Lady, a parish in the NE of Orkney, comprising the
north-eastern part of Sanday island. Bounded SW by
Cross parish, and on all other sides by the sea, it has
an utmost length from NE to SW of 7 mUes, a vary-
ing breadth of \ mile and 2i miles, and an area of
5233 acres. The coast, if one follows its ins and outs,
has an extent of not less than 24 miles, being deeply
indented on the NW by Otterswick Bay, on the S by
Stywick Bay. It projects the headlands of Tafts Ness
on the N, Start Point on the NE, Tress Ness on the SE,
and Els Ness on the S ; and includes two lagoons ad-
jacent to Els Ness and Tress Ness, dry at low water, and
capable of easy conversion into fine harbours. The
interior is mostly low and flat, and is divided into the
districts of Northwall, Sellibister, Newark, Tresness,
Coligarth, Overbister, and Elsness. The soil is very
various, but in most parts is a fertile mixture of mould
and sand. About one-third of the land is waste and
heathy, and the rest either forms good natural pasture
or is imder cultivation. A lighthouse is on Start Point ;
remains of Scandinavian buildings are in several places ;
three pretty large tumuli, partly surrounded by a square
enclosure, are near Coligarth ; and each of the seven
districts is supposed to have anciently had its church
or chapel. The property is divided between two. Lady
is in the presbytery of North Isles and synod of Orkney ;
the living is worth £183. The parish church was
rebuilt about 1832, and is amply commodious. The
schools are noticed in our article on Sanday. Pop.
(1801) 830, (1831) 858, (1861) 1122, (1871) 953, (18S1)
945.

Ladybank, a small police burgh in Collessie parish,
Fife, ^vith a junction on the Edinburgh, Perth, and
Dundee section of the North British railway, 18f miles
SE of Perth, 5 J SW of Cupar, and 2S| N by E of Edin-
burgh. Of modern growth, it has a post office, with
money order, savings' bank, and railway telegraph
departments, a branch of the Union Bank, 5 insurance
agencies, 2 hotels, a public hall, a locomotive depot,
malting and linen industries, and an abundant water-
supply (1876) from artesian wells. An Established
quoad sacra parish church, with 400 sittings, was erected

in 1881-82 at a cost of £2050, and a Free church, also
with 400 sittings, in 1875-76, at a cost of £2140; whilst
the public school — originally Madras — was enlarged in
1875. The municipal voters numbered 225 in 1883,
when the annual value of real property amounted to
£3010. Pop. (1861) 376, (1871) 772, (1881) 1072.
Houses (1881) 202 inhabited, 8 vacant, 1 building. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 40, 1867.

Ladyfield, a village at the mutual border of Long-
forgan parish, Perthshire, and FowHs parish, Forfarshire,
7 miles WNW of Dundee.

Ladykirk, a Border parish of SE Berwickshire, whose
church stands near the left bank of the river Tweed, 1^
mile W by N of Norham railway station, 6 miles NNE
of Coldstream, and 10 WSW of Berwick-upon-Tweed.
Tradition says that it took its name from the dedication
of this church to the Virgin Mary by James lY., in
gratitude for his deliverance from being swept away by
a powerful freshet of the Tweed at a neighbouring ford ;
and a village around the chui-ch was formerly a place of
some little note, but has dwindled to a few hinds'
houses, -with a post office and a fair on 5 April.

The parish contains also the village of Horndean,
and it consists of the ancient parishes of Horndean
and Upsetlington. It is bounded NW and N by
Whitsome, NE by Hutton, E and SE by Northum-
berland, S by Coldstream, and W by Swinton. Its
utmost length, from NE to SW, is 4^ miles ; its breadth
varies between &^ furlongs and 2§ miles ; and its area
is 3446J acres, of which 66J are water. The Tweed,
curving 3| miles north-north-eastward, traces all the
Northumbrian border, and along it the surface declines
to 95 feet above sea-level, thence rising gently to 213
feet near Upsetlington, 181 near Ladykirk -village, and
235 near Fellowhills. Sandstone imderUes the entire
area, and a very fine variety of it has been quarried
within the policies of Ladykirk House. The soil is
extremely fertile. Some 55 acres are under wood ;
about 845 are disposed in perennial pasture ; and all
the rest of the land is in tillage. A ford on the
Tweed, between Ladykirk village and Norham, gave
frequent passage in bygone days to armies of invasion ;
and, although always dangerous, continued to be used
till, in 1839, it was superseded by a wooden bridge on
stone piers. Holywell Haugh, adjacent to the Lady-
kii-k side of the ford, was the meeting-place of Edward I.
of England and the Scottish nobles to adjust the dispute
respecting the succession to the crown of Scotland ; and
the parish church of Ladykirk, in the time of Queen
Mary, was the scene of a treaty concluded by com-
missioners. An ancient rectory, midway between
Ladykirk and Upsetlington, has bequeathed to the
ground around its site the name of Chapel Park,
and is now represented by only a few large stones.
Ladykirk House, near the Tweed's left bank. If mile
SSW of Norham, is a finely-situated modern edifice,
surrounded by a beautiful park, and commanding an
exquisite view along the river. It is the seat of the

449

LADYKIRK

•widow of David Robertson, first and last Lord Marjori-
banks (1797-1S73), who sat for the county from 1859
till the year of his death. She owns 5853 acres in the
shire, valued at £9992 per annum. There are two lesser
proprietors. Ladykirk is in the presbytery of Chirnside
and synod of Merse and Teviotdale ; the living is not
worth the £254 at which it is returned. The parish
church, built in 1500, was oriE^inally a handsome cruci-
form Gothic ediliee, to whicli a tower was added in
1743. Internally it was greatly disfigured by alterations
and additions during the" first half of this century ; but
in 1861 it underwent thorough repair, and has now five
stained-glass windows, a tun-et clock, and 300 sittings.
A U.P. church, containing 450 sittings, is in Horn-
dean ; and a public school, with accommodation for 110
children, had (1881) an averatje attendance of 60, and
a grant of £47. Valuation (1865) £6851, (1882) £6548.
Pop. (1801) 516, (1831) 485, (1861) 564, (1871) 518,
(1881) iSS.—Ord. Sur., sh. 26, 1864.

Ladykirk, an ancient parish in Stronsay island,
Orkney. Including the south-western limb of the
island, and liounded. N by St Peter's, E by Mill Bay
and St Nicholas, S and W by Stronsay Firth, it is
compressed at the centre by Linga Sound on the N
and Rousholm Bay on the S ; projects south-south-
westward, to the extent of about one-half of its area,
in a peninsula terminating in Rousholm Head ; and
now forms part of the united parish of Stronsay and
Eday. Its greatest length, from NNE to SSW, is 5^
miles ; and its greatest breadth is 1§ mile.

Ladykirk or Northkirk, an ancient parish in Westray
island, Orkney. It comprises the northern part of the
island ; is bounded on the SE by Westkirk, on all other
sides by the sea ; contains the village of Pierwall ; and
now forms part of the united parish of Westray and
Papa-Westray. Its greatest length, from NNE to
SSW, is 6 miles ; and its greatest breadth is 3J
miles.

Ladykirk House, a mansion in Monkton parish, Ajrr-
shire, 2 miles E by N of Prestwick station. It is named
after a pre-Reformation chapel, which is now repre-
sented only by one of its four turrets.

Ladyland, an estate, with a good mansion of 1816, in
Kilbirnie parish, Ayrshire, 2 miles WSW of Lochwin-
noch. Purchased by his maternal ancestor in 1718, it
is now the property of Robert William Cochran-Patrick,
Esq. (b. 1842 ; sue. 1861), Conservative M.P. for North
Ayrshire since 1880, who holds 1249 acres in the shire,
valued at £1591 per annum. (See also Woodside. )
The Barclays' old house of Ladyland, described in
1609 as a 'strong tower,' was all, with exception of a
massive fragment, demolished in 1815. — Ord. Sur., sh.
22, 1865.

Ladyloan, a quoad sacra parish in Arbroath and
St Vigeans parishes, Forfarshire, comprising part of
Arbroath town. Constituted in 1865, it is in the pres-
bytery of Arbroath and synod of Angus and Mearns.
Its church, erected in 1838, was adorned with two
stained-glass windows in 1875, whilst Ladyloan Free
church was built in 1845. Pop. (1871) 4215, (1881)
4049, of whom 1389 were in St Vigeans. — Ord. Sur.,
sh. 49, 1865.

Lady's Bridge, a station on the Banffshire section of
the Groat North of Scotland railway, 2?s miles W by S
of Ran If.

Lady's Rock. Sec Duakt.

Ladywell, a hamlet in Kirkbean parish, Kirkcud-
briglitshire, 3 furlongs SSE of Kirkbean church.

Lag, an hotel in Kilmory parish, near the SW coast
of Arran island, Buteshire, towards the mouth of the
glen of Torrylin Water, adjacent to Kilmory church,
and lOi miles SW of Lamlash.

Lag. See Dunscoui;.

Laga. Ardnamuuchan.

Lagg. See Jura.

Laggan (Gael, lagan, ' a small hollow '), a hamlet
and a largo Highland parish of Badcnoch, Inverness-
shire. The hamlet, Laggan or Laggan Bridge, lies, 818
feet above sea-level, on the Spey, 8 miles WSW of
450

LAGGAN

Newtonmore station and 11 WSW of Kingussie, under
which it has a post office.

The parish is bounded N by Boleskine-Abertarff and
Moy-Dalarossie, NE and E by Kingussie, SE by Blair
Athole and Fortingall in Perthshire, S by Fortingall,
and SW and W by Kilmonivaig. Its utmost length,
from N by E to AV by S, is 22g miles ; its utmost width,
from E to W, is 17$ miles ; and its land area is 234J
square miles or 150,106 acres. The Spey, rising at au
altitude of 1475 feet, flows 7^ furlongs south-south-
eastward to Loch Spey (2| x 1 furl. ; 1142 feet), and
thence winds 20J miles east-by-northward (for the last ^
mile along the Kingussie border), till it passes off into
Kingussie at the confluence of the Truim, which itself,
rising at 2100 feet, runs 15§ miles north-north-eastward
(for the last 13 along the eastern boundary). The AUt
a' Chaoil Reidhe, rising at 3014 feet, runs 6J miles
north-eastward to triangular Loch Pattack (7^ x 4f
furl. ; 1430 feet) ; the Pattack thence flows 7 J miles
north-by-eastward and 2f miles west-south-westward
to beautiful Loch Laggan (7 miles x 2 to 5;^ furl. ; 819
feet) ; and from Loch Laggan the Spean flows 2^ miles
west-south-westward (for the last 1^ mile along the Kil-
monivaig border), till it passes off into Kilmonivaig on its
way to the Lochy. Again, most of the upper 12i miles
of Loch Ericht (14f miles x 9 furl. ; 1153 feet) belongs
to Laggan, whose drainage thus goes partly north-east-
ward to the Moray Firth, partly westward to Loch
Linnhe and the Atlantic, and ]>artly eastward to the
Tay and the German Ocean. Along both the Spey and
the Spean the surface declines to 810 feet above sea-
level ; and near the Pattack's westward bend is a ' col '
between the two river systems, 848 feet high. The
scenery everywhere is grandly mountainous, the prin-
cipal summits being *Corryarkick (2922 feet) and Geal
Charn (3036), to the N of the Spey ; Carn Liath (3298)
and *Creag Meaghaidh (3700), between the Spey and
Loch Laggan ; Am Faireamh (2986), Ben a' Chlachair
(3569), and Ben Alder (3757), between Lochs Laggan
and Ericht ; and *Ben Udlaman (3306), to the E of
Loch Ericht — where asterisks mark those heights that
culminate on the confines of the parish. The Queen,
who stayed at Ardverikie from 21 Aug. to 17 Sept.
1847, describes the scenery as 'splendid: high bold
hills, with a good deal of wood ; glens, with the
Pattack, and a small waterfall ; the meadows here and
there, with people making hay, and cottages sprinkled
sparingly about, reminding us much of Thiiringen.
. , . We were delighted with the scenery, which is
singularly beautiful, wild, and romantic — with so much
fine wood about it, which greatly enhances the beauty
of a landscape.' Metamorphic rocks predominate in
the mountains ; an inferior kind of slate occurs in
places ; and an excellent bed of limestone extends along
the valley of the Spey. The soil on the lowest grounds
is alluvial, and here and there has a depth of 10 or 12
feet. Only the bottom of the valleys and the lower
hill-slopes are under cultivation, by far the greater
])ortion of the parish being either grouse-moor or deer-
forest, whilst its waters yield capital fishing, the salmo-
ferox of Loch Laggan running up to 12 lbs. The Dun,
21 miles WSAV of Laggan Bridge, is the remains of a
strong fort 500 feet long and 250 broad, on a precipitous
rock rising 500 feet above the adjoining valley ; and at
the head of Loch Laggan are the ruins of an old church,
supposed to have been dedicated to St Kenneth. In
Laggan Prince Charles Etiward made some of the early
movements of his enterprise of 1745, and among some
of its mountain fastnesses he sought retreat after his
discomliture at Culloden. Mrs Grant of Laggan, nie
Anne M 'Vicar (1755-1836), as wife of the parish mini-
ster lived here from 1779 till 1803, and here collected
the materials for her Letters from the ^fountains and
other popular works on the Highlands and the High-
landers. (See also Cluny Castle, Glengulbin,
Glenshirra, Glentruim, Grampians, Monadhliath
Mountains, Strathmasiiie, and other articles already
indicated.) The property is divided among four.
Laggan is in the presbytery of Abertarlf and synod of

LAGGAN

Argyll ; the living is worth £300. The parish church,
at Laggan Bridge, on the Sj^ey's If bank, was rebuilt in
1842, and contains 500 sittings. A Free church stands
near the opposite bank of the river ; and Gergask, Glen-
truim, and Loch Laggan public schools, with respective
accommodation for 72, 36, and 40 children, had (1881)
an average attendance of 19, 15, and 17, and grants of
£37, 14s. 6d., £20, Os. 6d., and £24, 17s. Valuation
(1860) £7942, (1882) £15,210, 7s. Id. Pop. (1801)
1333, (1841) 1201, (1861) 986, (1871) 950, (1881) 917,
of whom 810 were Gaelic-speaking. — Ord. iiur., shs.
63, 64, 54, 1873-75.
Laggan or Loch an Lagain. See Evelix.
Laidon, Loch. See Ltdoch.
Laigh Dalmore. See Coyltox.
Laighdoors, a hamlet in Strathearn district, Perth-
shire, 2i miles from Muthill. It has a post office under
Crieff.

Laighwood, a hamlet in Clunie parish, Perthshire, on
the left bank of Lunan Burn, 5 miles NE of Dunkeld.

Lainshaw, an estate, with a modern mansion, in
Stewarton parish, Ayrshire, J mile SW of the town.
Its owner, John "William Herbert Cuninghame, Esq.
(b. 1834 ; sue. 1864), holds 4642 acres in the shire,
valued at £8026 per annum.— O^Z. Sur., sh. 22, 1865.
Laird's Hill. See Kilsyth.

Lairg, a village and a parish of central Sutherland.
The village stands on the left bank of the river Shin, a
little below its efflux from Loch Shin, and 1| mile N of
Lairg station on the Sutherland railway (1868), this
being 9 miles N by W of Bonar- Bridge and 66| N by
AV of Inverness. A pretty little place, it serves as a
centre of trade and communication, running a mail car
dail}' to Lochinver, thrice a week to Tongue, and having
a post office, with money order, savings' bank, and
railway telegraph departments, a branch of the Cale-
donian Bank, a commodious hotel, a police station, the
parish church (1846 ; 500 sittings), and a Free church.
In the beautiful churchyard are two noteworthy monu-
ments— one to William Slackay, whose Narrative of the,
Shipwreck of the Juno (1795) is virtually embodied in
V>yvon's Don Juan ; the other to Sir James Mathesou,
Bart. (1796-1878). The latter, erected in 1880, is a
splendid structure by a Mentone sculptor. Measuring
25 feet by 10, and 22 feet high, it is a dome supported
on blue marble pillars, with a dove-surmounted, white
marble cross beneath.

The parish is bounded NE by Farr, E by Eogart, S,
SW, and W by Creich, and NW by Eddrachillis and
Durness. Its utmost length, from XjSTW to SSE, is 24
miles ; its breadth varies between 6 and 12^ miles ; and
its land area is 189J square miles or 121,358 acres.
Loch Merkland (2| miles x 2^ furl. ; 367 feet), hing
on the Eddi-achillis border, sends off the Amhainn na
Ceardaich 1§ mile south-south-westward to Loch Griam
(11 X 3 furl. ; 304 feet), which itself sends off a stream
3 furlongs southward to the head of Loch Shin (16|
miles X J to 14 mile; 270 feet); and from the foot of
Loch Shin the river Shin flows oh, miles south-by-east-
ward through the interior and along the Creich border,
till it passes off into Creich on its way to the Oikell.
Of fifty-four feeders of Loch Shin, the two largest flow
to its NE side — the Fiag or Fiodhaig, issuing from
Loch Fiodhaig (1^ mile x 5i furl. ; 650 feet), and run-
ning 5| miles southward ; and the Tirry, rising at an
altitude of 1750 feet in the NE corner of the parish,
and winding 17f miles south-westward, westward,
south - south - eastward, and south - south - westward.
Loch Craggie or Creagach (1 mile x 2\ furl. ; 525 feet),
on the Rogart border, and Loch Beannaichte (| x J mile ;
615 feet), lie 3^ miles EXE and 3| NNE of Lairg villag^e ;
and forty-four smaller lakes are scattered over the in-
terior. Sinking in the extreme S along the Shin to 120
feet above sea-level, the surface is everywhere hilly, but
mountainous only in the N. Chief elevations to the
W, as one goes up the valley, are *Cnoc a' Choire (1318
feet), *Maol a' Bhealaidh (1673), and *Meallan a' Chuail
(2461) ; to the E, a nameless height (1018) 2 miles E of
the station, Meall Odhar (1403), and *Be.\ Hee (2864),

LAMBERTON

where asterisks mark those summits that culminate on
the confines of the parish. Granite and trap are the
prevailing rocks ; and limestone is plentiful along Loch
Shin. There is a considerable extent of light gravelly
loam, mixed with moss, and lying on a clayey subsoil ;
but the uplands generally are covered with peat earth.
In the triangular stretch of land between Loch Shin and
the last 3 miles of the Tirry 2000 acres were reclaimed
during 1873-77 by the Duke of Sutherland at a cost of
£100,000, under the superintendence of the late Kenneth
JIurray, Esq. of Geanies, to whom a monument, 33
feet high, was here erected on an elevated spot in 1877.
The works excited great interest, being visited by a
deputation from the Highland and Agricultural Society
(1874) and by the Prince of Wales (1876). As at KiL-
DONAX, they ai-e designed to increase the arable area so
as to raise sufficient oatmeal for the native population,
and sufficient winter fodder for the large flocks of sheep
that graze in summer on the neighbouring hills. The
huge steam plough, made specially for the reclamations
by Messrs Fowler of Leeds, and the reclamations them-
selves, are fully described on pp. 28-40 of Trails. Hvjlil.
and Ag. Soc. (1880). One sheep farm in the parish,
that of Dalchork, extends to 25,000 acres, and carries
an excellent stock of some 4000 sheep, whilst the Duke
himself holds 2000 on Shiness farm. Hut circles,
tumuli, and Pictish towers make up the antiquities.
AcHANY is the only mansion. Lairg is in the presby-
tery of Dornoch and synod of Sutherland and Caith-
ness ; the living is worth £224. Two public schools,
Lairg and Shiness, with respective accommodation for
120 and 114 children, had (1881) an average attendance
of 62 and 19, and grants of £55, 7s. and £32, 7s.
Valuation (1860) £3487, (1882) £8699, 5s., of which
£567 was for 3g miles of railway, and £5708, 15s. was
held bv the Duke, £2232 by Lady Matheson. Pop.
(1801)^1209, (1841) 913, (1861)961, (1871) 978, (1881)
1355, of whom 931 were Gaelic-speaking. —O/'d Sur.,
shs. 102, 108, 1881-80.
Laimie. See Learney,

Laithers House, a modern mansion in Turriff parish,
NW Aberdeenshire, on the right bank of the Deveron,
ih miles W by S of Turriff' to\\-n. Its owner, Alexander
Stuart, Esq. of Inchbreck (b. 1832 ; sue. 1856), holds
1191 acres in Aberdeen and 1009 in Kincardine shires,
valued at £988 and £479 per annum.— O^-c?. Swr., sh.
86, 1876.

Lakefield House, a mansion in Urquhart and Glen-
moriston parish, Inverness-shire, on the northern shore
of Loch Meiklie, 5^ miles W of Drumnadrochit.

Laken, a hamlet in Auldearn parish, Nairnshire, 4
miles SSE of Nairn.

Lamancha, an estate, with a mansion, in Newlands
parish, N Peeblesshire, 6 miles SSW of Penicuik and |
mile SW of Lamancha station on the Dolphinton branch
of the North British, this being 20J miles S by W of
Edinburgh. It bore the name of Grange of Romanno
till about 1736, when it was sold to the Dundonald
family ; and from them it was purchased in 1831 for
£14,364 by James Mackintosh, Esq., whose son, James
(b. 1825 ; sue. 1869), holds 953 acres in the shire,
valued at £935 per annum. A plain three-storied
edifice, the mansion was built in 1663, and twice en-
laro-ed by its successive purchasers. On the estate are
a public school and a post office. — Ord. Sur., sh. 24,
1864.
Lamb. See Dirleton.

Lamba, an island (^ x i mile) of Northmaven parish,
Shetland, in Yell Sound, Ig mile ENE of 011aberry._

Lambden, a mansion in Greenlaw parish, Berwick-
shire, 3^ miles SE of the town. Its owner, James
Nisbet, Esq. (b. 1841 ; sue. 1861), holds 555 acres in
the shire, valued at £1000 per annum.— Ore?. Sur., sh.
25, 1S65.

Lamberton, a former parish of SE Berwickshire,
long held by Coldingliam Priory, and annexed to Ayton
at the Reformation, to ilordington in 1650. Its church
was built upon an eastward slo]ie, 5 furlongs from the
hif'h sea-cliffs, 3 furlongs from the boundary of Berwick

451

LAMBHILL

liberties, ami 3f miles NNW of Berwick town. The
site, still marked b}' part of the outer walls, is the
bur3'ing-place of the Rentons of Lamberton. The
marriage-treaty of the Princess Margaret of England
with. James IV. of Scotland stipulated that she should,
without any expense to the bridegroom, be delivered to
the Scottish king's commissioners at Lamberton church ;
and she is said by tradition to have been married here,
but really was espoused at Windsor, and brought to the
King at Dalkeith. In 1573 a convention, which led to
the siege of Edinburgh Castle, was made at this church
between Lord Ruthven and Sir William Durie, the
marshal of Berwick. Lamberton toll-bar — which stood
between the ruins of the church and the line of the
North British railway — for some time vied with Gretna
as a place of runaway marriages. — Orel. Sur., sh. 34,
1S64.

Lambhill, a village in Maryhill parish, Lanarkshire,
2i miles N by W of Glasgow.

Lambholm, an island of Holm and Paplay parish,
Orkney, nearly in the centre of Holm Sound. It has
a circular outline, measuring 3 miles in circumference.
Pop. (1871) 7, (1881) 8.

Lamden. See Lambdek.

Lamerton, a village in Slonifieth parish, Forfarshire,
4| miles ENE of Dundee.

Lamington, a village and a parish in the Upper
Ward of Lanarkshire. The village stands, 700 feet
above sea-level, on the left bank of the Clyde, 6^ miles
SW by S of Biggar, 12 SE of Lanark, and 9 furlongs
ENE of Lamington station (across the river) on the
Caledonian, this being 10 J miles S by E of Carstairs
Junction, and 37| SW by S of Edinburgh. It was
entitled by charter from Charles I. to hold a weekly
market and two annual fairs, but now is a little country
place, neat and pretty — a model village in its way —
having an inn and a post office under Biggar, with
money order, savings' bank, and railway telegraph
departments.

The parish, since 1608 comprising the ancient parishes
of Wandell and Lamington, is bounded NW and N by
Symington, NE and E by Culter, SE and S by Craw-
ford, and W by Crawfordjohn and Wiston-Eoberton.
In outline rudely triangular, with northward apex, it
has an utmost length from NNE to SSW of 6f miles,
an utmost breadth from ENE to WSW of 5| miles, and
an area of 19,91Sf acres, of which 98| are water. The
Clyde flows 8f miles north-north-eastward along or
close to all the western and north-western boundary ;
and among its eight little affluents from this parish ai-e
Wandell Burn, running i^ miles west-north-westward,
and Lamington Burn 3 miles north-north-westward.
At a cost of £2000 the Clyde was embanked here along
its whole Lamington extent in 1835-36, when the bridge
across it near the village, of two arches, each 53 feet in
span, was built at a cost of £900. In the extreme N
the surface sinks along the Clyde to 680 feet above sea-
level, thence rising to 1614 feet at Lamington Hill, 1399
at Startup Hill, 1536 at Cowgill Rig, 1585 at Ewe Hill,
1894 at- Duncangill Head, 1867 at Tewsgill Hill, and
1406 at Arbory Hill. Porphyry and greywacke are
the prevailing rocks ; and the soil is a deep rich loam
or clay on the level holm-lands along the Clyde, on
other arable lands is mainly of free and lightish yet
kindly character, and on most of the hills is moorish or
mossy. About 2186 acres are arable, 137 are under
plantations, and nearly all the remainder is rough
pasture. George Jardine (1742-1827), Professor of
Logic in Glasgow University, was a native of Wandell.
The Roman Watling Street, from Nithsdale into Clydes-
dale, ran close by the river Clyde ; and camps, both
Roman and native, occur in several localities, the most
curious of them being that upon Arboiiy Hill. The
' Bower of Wandell, ' a fortalice crowning a rocky
peninsula, washed on three sides by the Clyde, is almost
level with the ground, and only a vault remains of
Windgate House, towards the head of Cowgill or Keygill
( den ; but the Tower of Lamington, 5 furlongs N of
the village, is still rern-esented by the lofty NW angle.
452

lammermuir hills

Tradition assigns it to the days of Wallace, but its
little projecting corner turret refers it rather to the
16th century. Hamilton of Wishaw described it about
1700 as ' an old house seated upon the river Clyde,
near to the kirk, in a pleasant place, and well planted,'
and it was occupied by the Baillies for nearly fifty years
later, but about 1780 it was demolished by an ignorant
factor to furnish building materials. That Marion
Bradfute, wife of Sir William Wallace, was heiress of
Lamington, and that their daughter transmitted her
mother's rights to her husband, Sir William Baillie of
Hoprig, are baseless traditions, for in 1368 Sir William
Baillie, second of Hoprig, as son-in-law of Sir William
Seton, obtained a charter of ' Lambiston ' barony. His
seventeenth descendant — five times through heiresses —
is Alexander Dundas Ross Cochrane Baillie (b. 1816 ;
sue. his mother in 1819), who was Conservative member
for Bridport, Lanarkshire, Honiton, and the Isle of Wight
at various periods from 1846 to 1880, in which latter
year he was created Baron Lamington in the peerage of
the United Kingdom. He holds 10,833 acres in the
shire, valued at £6327 per annum. His mansion,
Lamington House, finely seated on the hill-slope a
little E of the village, is a modei'n Elizabethan edifice,
with pleasant grounds. The Earl of Home is the other
proprietor, the barony of Hartside or Wandell having
passed from the Jardines to the Earl of Angus in 1617.
(See Douglas Castle.) Lamington is in the presbytery
of Biggar and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale ; the
living is worth £211. The parish church, St Ninian's,
is an old building, with 300 sittings, a fine N Norman
archway, and a bell bearing date 1647. Down to the
repairs of 1828 it retained its 'jougs' and 'canty,' or
place of repentance ; and within its walls one cold rough
day Robert Burns heard a sermon which called forth a
stinging epigram. A private Episcopal church (1857 ;
70 sittings) is a pretty Early English edifice. The
public school, with accommodation for 74 children, had
(1881) an average attendance of 16, and a grant of
£28, 16s< Valuation (1880) £8853, lis., (1883) £7822,
8s. Pop. (1801) 375, (1831) 382, (1861) 380, (1871)
332, (1881) 316.— Ore;. Sur., shs. 23, 24, 15, 16, 1865-64.

Lamlash, a village in Kilbride parish, on the E side
of Arran Island, Buteshire. Standing on the NW
shore of Lamlash Bay, 5^ miles S by E of Brodick, and
15 miles in direct line by sea SW of Ardrossan, it
chiefly consists of one long string of houses, and is a
favourite summer sea-bathing resort, enjoying regular
steamboat communication with Brodick, Ardrossan,
Rothesay, and Greenock. It has a good stone pier, a
post office, with money order, savings' bank, and tele-
graph departments, a branch of the Bank of Scotland,
two hotels, a public school, and the new parish church
of Kilbride. Lamlash Bay, with a horse-shoe outline
5 miles in extent, opens westward from the Firth of
Clyde, between Clauchlands Point and Kingscross
Point ; measures 2| miles across the entrance, nearly
three-fifths of which are occupied by Holy Isle ; and,
being sheltered from every wind, is a first-rate natural
harbour of refuge. — Ord. Sur., shs. 21, 13, 1870.

Lamma. See Lamba.

Lammer Law, a mountain in the S of Yester parish,
Haddingtonshire, 8| miles S by E of Haddington.
Rising 1733 feet above sea-level, it is the loftiest of the
entire range of the Lammermuirs, and gives them name.
—Orel. Sur., sh. 33, 1863.

Lammermuir Hills, a broad range of moorish heights,
stretching eastward from the vale of Gala Water, in the
SE extremity of Midlothian, to the German Ocean at
the promontories of Fast Castle and St Abb's Head, in
the parish of Coldingham, Berwickshire. From the
middle of the lofty mountain-range which begins at
Cheviot in Nortliumberland, and, passing into Scotland,
extends across it to Loch Ryan, — from the most elevated
part of it, called the Lowthers or the Hartfell Heights,
at the meeting-point of thecountiesof Dumfries, Lanark,
and Peebles, a less lofty and less remarkable range goes
off north-eastward across Peeblesshire to the vale of the
Gala, and, but for being cloven down by this vale,

LAMMERTON

•would join the Lammermuirs, so as to stretch unbroken
to the sea. The Lammermuirs all lie uithin East
Lothian and Berwickshire ; commencing at the extreme
western limit of these counties, forming, for two-thirds
of their extent, a southern screen to East Lothian, and
constituting— if the Lammermuir part of Lauderdale be
included — nearly one-half of Berwickshire. The range
forms, with the loftier and commanding chain of the
Cheviots and the Lowthers, whence it diverges, the
vast triangular basin of the Tweed, and overlooks,
stretching away from its N base, the grand expanse of
the great body of the Scottish Lowlands, till thej^ are
pent up by the stupendous barrier of the far-extending
Grampians. In themselves the Lammermuirs are an
extensive curvature of, for the most part, wild and
cheerless heights — nowhere bold and imposing in aspect,
and often subsiding into low rolling table-lands of bleak
moor. Once clothed with forest, they still have natural
woods hanging on some of their steeps ; but over their
summits, and down their higher slopes, they are almost
everywhere sprinkled only with heather. Yet lovers of
pastoral seclusion may find pleasure in gazing on the
great flocks of sheep which tenant their higher grounds ;
while agriculturists will look with satisfaction on the con-
siderable ascents which have been made by the plough
on their lower declivities. The soil in nearly all the
upper parts is a light peat mould ; and even in some of
the lower parts — as in the parish of Westruther — is a
swampy moss. But elsewhere the prevailing peat is
mixed with sand and clay, or gives place to compara-
tively kindly soil ; and in the vales and lower slopes,
irrigated by the numerous streams which are collected
on the broad ridge, are belts of fertility and beauty.
The geology is treated under Haddingtonshire.
Besides Lammek Laav (1733 feet) more than twenty
summits exceed an altitude of 1200 feet above sea-level.
—Orel. Sur., shs. 33, 34, 1863-64.

Lammerton. See Lamberton and Lamerton.

Lament or Ardlamont House, a mansion in Kilfinan
parish, Argyllshire, 1| mile NNW of Ardlamont
Point, and 7 miles S of Tighnabruaich. Its owner,
John Henry Lament, Esq. (b. 1854 ; sue. 1862), chief
of the clan Lamont, holds 12,000 acres in the shire,
valued at £2959 per annum.— Orrf. Sur., sh. 29, 1873.

Lanark (Cymric llanerch, ' a forest glade '), a town
and a parish in the Upper Ward of Lanarkshire. The
capital of the county, and a royal, parliamentary, and
police burgh, the town is built on a south-westward
slope, 500 to 750 feet above sea-level, within \ mile of
the Clyde's right bank, by rail being i\ miles WSW of
Carstairs Junc'tion, 33 J SW of Edinburgh, and 31^ SE
by E of Glasgow. Its environs are singularly pleasant,
comprising the three celebrated Falls of Clyde (Bon-
NiNGTON, Corra, and Stoneeyres Linns) and the deep,
narrow chasm of Mouse Water beneath the stupendous
Cartland Crags, with a wealth of minor embellishment
in the shape of undulating surface, woods, and mansions.
The town, which on 20 Aug. 1804 received a visit from
Coleridge, Wordsworth, and his sister Dorothy, then
'showed a sort of French face, and would have done so
more, had it not been for the true British tinge of coal-
smoke ; the doors and windows dirty, the shops dull,
the women too seemed to be very dirty in their dress.
The place itself is not ugly ; the houses are of grey
stone, the streets not very narrow, and the market-
place decent. The New Inn is a handsome old stone
building, formerly a gentleman's house. We were con-
ducted into a parlour, where people had been drinking ;
the tables were unwiped, chairs in disorder, the floor
dirty, and the smell of liquors was most off'ensive. We
were tired, however, and rejoiced in our tea. The
evening sun was now sending a glorious light through
the street, which ran from W to E ; the houses were of
a fine red, and the faces of the people as they walked
westward were almost like a blacksmith's when he is at
work by night.' Great changes have taken place since
Dorothy Wordsworth wrote, especially since 1823 ; and
now, to quote Irving's History of Lanarkshire (1864),
' though many of the houses in the burgh must occupy

LANARK

the sites of buildings erected at a very early date, the
progress of improvement and alteration has left little or
nothing to interest the arcliEeological inquirer into the
domestic architecture of our ancestors. A local anti-
quary, following up a house-to-house visitation, may
discover some faint traces of earlier work, but he will
fail to find any building which, in its main features
and as a whole, can date prior to the commencement of
last century. Many of the houses were till recently
covered with thatch, and some instances of this style
of roofing still exist.' Lanark chiefly consists of one
main line of street, bearing the names of High Street
and Westport, with several smaller streets or lanes
diverging on either side. It contains some good public
buildings and many handsome well-appointed shops ;
and possesses so many amenities in itself and such full
command of its beautiful environs, as to be both a very
agreeable place of stated residence and a crowded resort
of summer tourists.

An artificial mound, the Castle Hill, at the foot of
the Castle Gate, on the side of the town towards the
Clyde, is believed to have been occupied by a Roman
station, and was long surmounted by a royal castle,
which is thought to have been foiinded by David I.,
and was an occasional residence of William the Lyon
and other kings. It was mortgaged in 1295, in con-
nection with negotiations for the marriage of the niece
of King Philip of France with the son and heir of John
Baliol ; was held by an English garrison for a number
of years till 1310 ; went afterwards to ruin ; and has
utterly disappeared, its site being now a bowling gi'een.
Some places in the neighbourhood still bear such names
as King-son's Knowe, King-son's Moss, and King-son's
Stane — survivals, seemingly, of royal residence in the
castle. An eminence, Gallow Hill, a little N of the
town, was the place of capital punishment in feudal
times, and commands a magnificent view along Strath-
clyde, from Tinto to Ben Lomond. The ancient parish
church, St Kentigern's, 3 furlongs SE of the town, was
granted by David L, as early as 1150-53, to the monks
of Dryburgh, who held the rectorial tithes thenceforward
on to the Reformation ; but from the style of its archi-
tecture— First Pointed or Early English — the present
ruin appears to date from the succeeding century. It
consisted of two six-bayed aisles, each with a chancel, but
without a nave ; and of these the portions that remain
are the lofty, pointed arches dividing the two aisles, the
wall of the S one, and a fragment of the chancels. In
the S wall is a doorway, exhibiting ' the round moulding
with a fillet on the face, while the capitals, which are
all that remain of two nook shafts, are richly sculptured '
(Bloxam's Gothic Architecture). It continued to be used
for some time after the Reformation, but seems to have
fallen into a ruinous condition by 1657, and in 1777 was
finally superseded by the present church, whither its
bell was transferred, which, according to an inscription
on it, has 'three times, Phenix-like, past thro' fiery
furnace '— in 1110, 1659, and 1740. Irvine of Bonshaw,
who in 1 681 seized Donald Cargill at Covington Mill,
lies buried in the S aisle ; and in the churchyard is the
grave of ' William Henri, who suff"ered at the Cross of
Lanark, 2 March 1682, age 38, for his adherence to the
Word of God and Scotland's covenanted work of Refor-
mation.' Within the burgh stood the chapel of St
Nicholas, which existed at the beginning of the 13th
centurj', but to assist in building which five merks were
left so"^late as 1550. Its very site is forgotten, but it is
known to have possessed four altars or chantries ; and,
passing to the magistrates at the Eeformation, it served as
a chapel of ease from 1590 till 1777. In the present yard
of the Clydesdale Hotel stood an Observantine or Fran-
ciscan friary, which is said to have been founded by
Robert Bruce in 1314 (the year of Bannockburn), and
where a chapter of the whole Scottish Franciscan order
was held in 1496. To Robert I. is also ascribed the
foundation of St Leonard's Hospital, | mile E of the
town ; but from a charter this seems to have existed at
least a century earlier.

The present parish church, in the middle of the town,

453

LANARK

without is a large ungainly structure of 1777, but within
was greatly improved in 1870 at a cost of nearly £1200.
It contains ISOO sittings ; and in a niche above its
principal door is a colossal statue (1817) of Sir William
Wallace by the young self-taught sculptor, Robert
Forrest. St Leonards Church was built as a chapel of
ease in 1867 at a cost of £2500, and in 1873 M-as raised
to quoad sacra status. Other places of worship are a
Free church, Hope Street and Bloomgate U.P. churches,
an Evangelical Union chapel, Episcopalian Christ Church
(1858), and St Mary's Roman C^atholic church. Of these
Bloomgate U.P. church, rebuilt in 1875, is a First
Pointed edifice, with a tower and spire 90 ieet high ;
whilst St Mary's, built in 1859 at a cost of £15,000, is
Second Pointed in style and cruciform in plan, con-
sisting of nave, aisles, chancel, sacristy, and tower. The
interior is adorned with many stained-glass windows,
with twelve fine statues, and with a fresco by Doyle of
the ' Last Judgment. ' There is a new and tastefully
laid out cemetery, in the centre of which an obelisk, 30
feet high, was erected in 1881 to the memory of the
Lanark Martyrs of 1660-88. A school has existed at
Lanark from 1183 and earlier ; and three mortifications,
for the education of 51 boys attending its grammar-
school, amounted to £212, lis. 4d. in 1881. In that
j^ear the following were the six schools under the burgh
school-board, with accommodation, average attendance,
and grant:— Burgh (366, 163, £132, 14s.), Grammar
(145, 126, £126, 17s.), West (86, 70, £56, 8s.), Mrs
Wilson's Free (75, 56, £45, 5s.), St Mary's Roman
Catholic (370, 191, £174, 18s. 6d.), and Smyllum Roman
Catholic (429, 307, £310, 4s. 6d.). The Smyllum Park
Orphanage, for 400 destitute orphan children of Catholics
in Scotland, is conducted by sisters of charity. A sepa-
rate deaf-mute institution and a new chapel were added
in 1883. The sisters have also charge of a Roman
Catholic hospital (1872), with 30 beds. Another hospital,
the Lanark Infirmary, with 32 beds, is a Scottish Baronial
one-story structure of 1873, designed by the late David
Bryce, R.S.A.

The County Buildings for the upper ward of Lanark-
shire, which figure prominently in the town, and were
erected in 1834-36 at a cost of over £5000, are a chaste
and graceful structure in the Grecian style. They com-
prise the county ofiices in front, and a prison in the
rear, with 29 cells. The former prison was described in
1834 as being ' in such condition that none need stay in
it but of their own good will.' Behind the Clydesdale
Hotel are the Assembly Rooms (1827) ; and other build-
ings are a town hall, a co-operative hall, a Good
Templars' hall, and large militia barracks, the last f
mile to the SE. Lanark besides has a post office, with
money order, savings' bank, insurance, and telegraph
departments, branches of the Clydesdale, Commercial,
Royal, and British Linen Co.'s Banks, 28 insurance
agencies, 10 hotels, gas-works (1832), a water supply from
a pretty lake (2 x 14 furl.) near the racecourse, a reading-
room, and a Liberal Saturday paper, the Lanarkshire
ExMminer (1863). Jlonday and Tuesday are market
days, and the following is a list of the fairs :— Seeds and
hiring, last Tuesday of February ; grit ewes and hoggs,
Wednesday before first Monday in April ; plants, second
Wednesday of April ; cattle, last Wednesday of May
o. s. ; rough sheej), ilonday before last Tuesday in June ;
cattle show, first Tuesday of July ; St James's horse and
lamb fair, last Wednesday of July 0. .v., and two pre-
ceding days; black-faced crosses and Cheviot lambs,
second Tuesday after the lamb fair ; horses, cattle, and
hiring,^ Thursday after Falkirk October Tryst ; cattle,
first Wednesday in November 0. s. ; general business,
last Tuesday of December. A silver bell was run for
annually as long ago at least as 1628 ; and the race-
course, 1 mile in circuit and 1^ ESE of the town, is one
of the finest in Scotland, being almost a dead level. A
large business is done in connection with the fairs and
markets, and a considerable trade in the supply of
miscellaneous goods to the surrounding country ; wliilst
nuich supi)ort is derived from the influx of strangers to
visit the Falls of Clyde. Comparatively little has been
454

Seal of Lanark.

LANARK

done to share in the multifarious and extensive manu-
factures of lower Clydesdale, but the weaving of winceys,
shirtings, and druggets is the staple industry ; and
there are also 3 artificial manure works, a tannery, 2
breweries, a large fancy woodwork establishment, and,
I mile from the town, the extensive factory of the
British Oil and Candle Co.

A royal burgh since the reign of David I. (1124-53),
Lanark is governed by a provost, 3 bailies, a judge of
guild court, a treasurer, and 9
councillors. Sheriff courts are
held every Monday and Thurs-
day during session, debts re-
covery courts every Monday,
and sheriff small debt courts
every Monday during session.
With Falkirk, Airdrie, Hamil-
ton, and Linlithgow, Lanark
returns one member to parlia-
ment. The municipal and
the parliamentary constituency
numbered 690 and 572 in 1883,
when the annual value of real

property within the burgh amounted to £13,399 (£11,691
in 1875), whilst the corporation revenue was £2119 in
1882, agaiust £1296 in 1874. Pop. of royal burgh
(1881) 5874 ; of parliamentary and police burgh (1831)
4266, (1851) 5008, (1871) 5099, (1881) 4910, of whom
2680 were females. Houses in ])arliamentary burgh
(1881) 958 inhabited, 62 vacant, 9 building.

Lanark has been identified with Ptolemy's Colania, a
town of the Damnonii in the 2d century A.n. , which
Skene, however, places 'near the sources of the Clyde,'
and describes as ' a frontier but apparently unimportant
post.' Nor does Buchanan's statement, that Kenneth
II. in 978 here held an assembly of the estates of the
realm, appear to rest on any sufficient basis. And
Chalmers is certainly wrong in asserting that ' we hear
nothing of any royal castle or place of royal residence
in this city,' for as early as the 12th century royal
charters are known to have been dated from the Castle
of Lanark. This castle it is that figures in the metrical
narratives by Wyntoun and Blind Harry of Sir William
Wallace's first collision with the English, in May 1297.
' He had just taken to wife a virtuous damsel named
Bradfute. She resides in the town of Lanark, where
there is an English garrison ; and as he is a marked
man, from having already resented the insults of the
invaders, it is not safe for him to reside there, and he
must be content with stealthy visits to his bride. One
day, having just heard mass, he encounters some
straggling soldiers, who treat him with ribaldry and
practical jokes. A very animated scene of taunt and
retort, what is vulgarly called chaffing, is given by the
minstrel ; but it must be held as in the style of the fif-
teenth rather than of the thirteenth century. Wallace
bears all with good temper, until a foul jest is flung at
his wife. Then he draws his great swoi'd, and cuts off
the offender's hand. He is joined by a few of his coun-
trymen, and there is a scufile ; but the English are
many times their number, and they must seek safety.
His own door is opened for Wallace by his wife, and he
escapes through it into the open country. For this
service his poor wife is slain, and then he vows eternal
vengeance. Gathering a few daring hearts round him,
he falls upon the garrison in the night, burns their
quarters, and kills several of them, among the rest
William de Hazelrig, whom Edward had made Earl of
Clydesdale and Sheriff' of Ayr.' Thus Dr Hill Burton,
who adds that ' tlie story is not, on the whole, im-
probable : we can easily believe in such a man l)eing
driven desperate by insults and injuries to himself and
to those dear to him. But the latter portion of the
story is confirmed in a curious manner. About sixty
years later, a Northumbrian knight. Sir Thomas de
Grey, had been taken jirisoner in tlie Scots wars, and
was committed to the Castle of Edinburgh. There,
like Raleigh, he bethought him of writing something
like a history of the world ; but it fortunately gave a

LANARK

disproportionate prominence to events in or near liis
own day, especially those in which he or his father
participated. He tells how, in the month of j\Iay 1297,
his father was in garrison at Lanark, and that Wallace
fell upon the quarters at night, killed Hazelrig, and set
fire to the place. The father had good reason to re-
member and tell about the affair, for he was wounded
in it, and left on the street for dead. Had it not been
that he lay between two blazing buildings, he would
have died, wounded as he was, of exposure in that chill
May night, but he was recognised by his comrade,
William de Lundy, and tended by him till he re-
covered. Further, it was charged against Wallace,
when indicted in London, that he had slain Hazelrig
and cut his body in pieces.' Tradition says that the
house in which Wallace resided stood at the head of the
Castlegate, opposite the church ; and that a vaulted
passage led from it to the Cartland Crags ; but the
latter part of the statement is clearly false. The Eng-
lish continued to hold tlie castle and the town till 1310,
when Edward IL occupied Lanark from the 11th till the
13th of October. The castle was then surrendered to
Robert the Bruce, who seems to have either rebuilt or en-
larged it. On the common muir of Lanark — now the race-
course— encamped the armies of James IL (1452), of
James, ninth Earl of Douglas (1454), and of Charles II.
(1651), Lanark the year before having been occupied by
4000 English horse. In Nov. 1666, 3000 West Country
Covenanters, after here renewing the Covenant, set out
to meet defeat at Rulliox Gkeex ; and on 12 Jan.
1682, a well-armed body of 40 horse and 20 foot affixed
to the Cross of Lanark a confirmation of the ' Sanquhar
Testimony,' and burned both the Test and the Act of
Succession, for which the Privy Council fined the
magistrates in 6000 merks. Among eminent natives
and residents — the former distinguished by an asterisk
— of town or parish have been *AVilliam Lithgow (1583-
1645), who trudged more than 36,000 miles over Europe,
the Levant, and Northern Africa, and was buried in
the old churchyard ; *Sir AVilliam Lockhart of Lee
(1620-75), ' one of the Commonwealth's best generals,
and by far its best diplomatist ; ' Robert Baillie of
Jerviswood (executed 1684) ; Sir John Lockhart-Ross
(1721-90), the gallant admiral ; *Robert Macqueen,
Lord Braxfield (1722-99), the able lawyer and judge,
who received his education at the grammar school, as
also did Major-Gen. William Roy (1726-90), of Ordnance
fame ; *Gavin Hamilton (d. 1797), historical painter ;
David Dale (1739-1806) ; his son-in-law, Robert Owen
(1771-1858) ; and^w sons, Robert Dale Owen (1801-77),
and *David Dale Owen (1807-60). (See Lanark, New.)
The Duke of Hamilton bears the title of Earl of Arran
and Lanark (ere. 1643) in the peerage of Scotland.

The parish of Lanark, containing also the villages of
New Lanark and Cartland, comprehends the ancient
parishes of Lanark and St Leonards. It is bounded
NW and N by Carluke, E by Carstairs and Pettinain,
SE by Carmichael, and SW and W by Lesmahagow.
Its utmost length, from N by W to S by E, is 6
miles ; its utmost breadth, from E to W, is 5| miles ;
and its area is 10,560 acres, of which 175 are water.
The river Clyde winds 11 1 miles south-westward
and north -north -westward along all the Pettinain,
Carmichael, and Lesmahagow boundaries ; and here
it forms its three celebrated falls, and otherwise is
rich in scenery of surpassing beauty and romance.
Mouse AVater, entering from Carstairs, and running
4^ miles west-south-westward to the Clyde at a point
330 j'ards below Lanark Bridge, divides the parish into
two not so unequal parts, and in the lower jiart of its
course traverses the tremendous ravine of Cortland
Crags. Along the Clyde the surface declines in the
NW to less than 200 feet above sea-level, thence rising
to 869 feet near Cleekhimin, 969 near Collielaw, 656
near Nemphlar, 805 near Smyllum Park, and 711 near
Robiesland. Tlie parish generally may be regarded as
a plateau, bisected by the deep irregular vale of Mouse
Water, the parts to the N of which are flat and moorish,
whilst those towards the Clyde are gentle slopes and

LANARK. NEW

deep declivities. Old Red sandstone, intersected in
places by trap dykes, prevails through most of the
area ; and carboniferous limestone, accompanied by a
small seam of coal, occurs in the NAV corner, and has
been largely worked. The soil, along the rivers, is
light and gravelly ; in the W and E, is mostly a stiflf
clay ; on the moors, is a hard till ; and in some locali-
ties, even in the same field, is a rapid alternation of
difi'erent varieties. About 1220 acres are under wood,
29i are in orchards, 7053 are in tillage, and the rest is
mainly either pastoral or waste. Antiquities, other
than those noticed. in our account of the town, are
remains of a great Roman camp near Cleghorn House,
the picturesque remnant of the lofty tower of Castlehill
on the right bank of Mouse AVater, remains of the
curious old stronghold of Castledykes or Castle Quaw
on tlie brink of Cartland Crags, the site of the church
of St Leonards, and the sites of two chapels at Cleghorn
and East Nemphlar. Mansions, noticed separatel}-, are
Bonnington House, Cleghorn House, the Lee, and
Sunnyside ; and 8 proprietors hold each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 26 of between £100 and
£500, 36 of from £50 to £100, and 112 of from £20 to
£50. The seat of a presbytery in the synod of Glasgow
and Ayr, this parish is divided ecclesiastically into
Lanark proper and St Leonards quoad sacra parish, the
former a living worth £428. Two landward public
schools, Nemplilar and New Lanark, with respective
accommodation for 50 and 242 children, had (1881) an
average attendance of 30 and 59, and grants of £28, 8s.
and £56, 12s. 6d. A^aluation (1865) £20,269, (1883)
£21,087, Ss. Pop. (1801) 4692, (1821) 7085, (1841)
7666, (1861) 7891, (1871) 7841, (1881) 7580, of whom
4327 were in Lanark proper and 3252 in St Leonards. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 23, 1865.

The presbytery of Lanark comprises the quoad civilia
parishes of Carluke, Carmichael, Carnwath, Carstairs,
Crawford, Crawfordjohn, Douglas, Lanark, Lesmahagow,
Pettinain, and AA'iston, the quoad sacra parishes of
Forth, Leadhills, andLanark-St Leonards, and thechapel-
ries of Haywood, Carstairs Junction, and Kirkfieldbank.
Pop. (1871) 38,103, (1881) 40,806, of whom 6567 were
communicants of the Church of Scotland in 1878. —
The Free Church has a presbytery of Lanark, with
churches of Abington, Carluke, Carnwath, Crossford,
Douglas, Douglas AVater, Forth, Lanark, Law, and
Lesmahagow, which 10 churches together had 2739 mem-
bers in 1883. — The United Presbyterian Church has a
presbytery of Lanark, with 2 chmxdies at Lanark, 2
at Biggar, and 8 at Bonkle, Braehead, Carluke, Carn-
wath, Crossford, Douglas, Lesmahagow, and Roberton,
which 12 churches together had 3026 members in 1882.
Lanark, New, a large manufacturing village in Lanark
parish. Lanarksliire, on the right bank of the Clyde,
1^ mile S by AV of Lanark town. Standing on low
ground by the river side, f mile NNAA" of Corra Linn,
it commands a view of that romantic fall and of its
Dundaff miniature. On all sides it is surrounded by
steep and beautifully wooded banks and hills ; and it
adjoins a series of chai-ming walks, formed for the re-
creation of its inhabitants, and both containing and
commanding a series of charming views. New Lanark
was founded in 1783 by the philanthropic and enter-
prising David Dale to serve as a seat of cotton manufac-
ture; and from 1799 till 1827 was the model scene of
the social experiments of ilr Dale's son-in-law, Robert
Owen. AA^ell-built and handsome, it possesses eminent
attractions as a seat of manufacture, and has a post-
office under Lanark, an educational institution, and
four spinning-mills. The educational iustitution com-
prises class-rooms and a lecture haU, and affords a
wider and higher range of instruction than is usually
given in factory schools. The first mill was opened in
1785 ; the second, erected in 1788, and destroyed by
fire before completion, was rebuilt in 1789 ; and the
third and fourth were built at subsequent periods.
Each mill, as originally constructed, was 160 feet long,
40 feet wide, and 7 stories high ; and, at the time of the
erection of the first, a tunnel, 300 feet long, for bringing

455

LANARKSHIRE

water to it from the Clyde, was cut through solid rock,
and gave a fall of 28 feet. The works were purchased
in 1881 by the Lanark Spinning Co., who have doubled
their former size, and introduced the latest improve-
ments in machinery. Pop. (1831) 1901, (1861) 1396,
(1871) 973, (1881) 706.— Orel Sur., sh. 23, 18G5. See
A. J. Booth's Life of Robert Owen (Lond. 1869).

Lanarkshire, one of the south-western counties of
Scotland, and the most important county of the country.
It ranks only tenth among the Scottish counties as to
area, but is 'by far the most populous— containing, in-
deed, as many inhabitants as the three next in order all
taken together, and very nearly a quarter of the whole
population of Scotland— and the most valuable, as the
valuation, exclusive of burghs, is greater than that of
the next two in order taken both together. It is
bounded N by Stirlingshire and a detached portion of
Dumbartonshire, NE by Stirlingshire, Linlithgowshire,
and Edinburghshire, E by Peeblesshire, SE and S by
Dumfriesshire, SW by Dumfriesshire and Ayrshire, and
W by Ayrshire, Renfrewshire, and Dumbartonshire.
Its greatest breadth, from E to W, is near the centre,
from the point on the W on Glen Water (afterwards the
Irvine), where the counties of Ayr, Renfrew, and Lanark
meet, to Tarth Water E of Dolphinton, and this measures
in a straight line 33 miles. Its greatest length, from
NW, at the bridge over the Kelvin beyond Maryhill
near Glasgow, to Earncraig Hill on the SE, is 50 miles.
The total area is 888-981 square miles or 568,867-656
acres, of which, at the time of the Ordnance Survey,
564,283-928 were land, 27-408 foreshore, and 4556-320
water, but there now falls to be added to the water
space and deducted from the land space other 33-75
acres for the new Queen's Dock, and this will be still
farther increased when the new dock at Cessnock is
constructed. Meanwhile the land area is therefore
564,250-178 acres, of which barely one-half is cultivated,
there being 251,121 acres in 1882 under crop, bare fal-
low, and grass, while 18,780 were underwood, most of
the rest being rough hill pasture, barren moorland, or
covered with pit, etc. refuse. A small proportion of the
untilled gi'ound might, however, still be improved.
Although the most populous county in Scotland, it is,
in consequence of its size and of the barren nature of
the southern part, not the most densely populated,
being beaten in this respect by both Edinburgh and
Renfrew, each of which has 1075 persons to the square
mile, while Lanark has 1026 ; the next, far behind, being
Clackmannan with 539.

Commencing at the NW corner the boundary line
skirts the E end of Renfrew, crosses the Clyde below
Whiteinch, and passes irregularly by Scaterig to the
Kelvin immediately W of Maryhill. It follows the line
of the Kelvin, except for a very short distance, to a
point J mile below the mouth of the Luggie, whence it
strikes along the course of a small burn to Boghead near
Lenzie, and from that almost due E to tlie Luggie be-
tween Barbeth and Deerdykes. After following the
course of the Luggie to near Torbrex it strikes E to the
course of a small burn and passes down it to the Avon
near the bend to the E of Fannyside Loch, follows the
course of the Avon for J mile, and then curves
south-eastward to Black Loch, across which it passes
to North Calder Water between Black Loch and Hill-
end Reservoir. It follows this stream to the sharp
bend immediately E of Hillend Reservoir, and then
strikes again SE to Forrestljurn Water, which it fol-
lows to near Eastercraigs Hill (824 feet) in Linlithgow-
shire, whence it strikes across to a burn that joins the
How Burn and flows into the river Almond. It follows
this to its junction with the How Burn, and then passes
northward across Polkemmet and Fauldhouso Moors to
Fauldhouse Burn, which it follows to its junction with
the Breich, takes the NW branch at Damiead Linn,
follows it for 1 mile, then crosses to the centre branch,
and follows this to the top of Black Hill (950 feet).
Thence it goes N to Leven Seat (1133 feet), and from
that follows the watershed between the Clyde and
Almond basins by the SW end of Coldnshaw Reservoir
456

LANARKSHIRE

(a small portion of which is in Lanarkshire) to White-
craig (1425), whence it follows the course of Medwiu
Water to the junction of Garvald Burn, and so to Felton
E of Dolphinton station and thence south-westwards to
Broom Law (1399). From the SW shoulder of this hill
it follows the course of the upper part of Biggar Water,
and from that, first W and then SE, following in the
main the course of the stream, to the top of Scawdmans
Hill (1880 feet), and from this it passes irregularly
westwards, following at first the watershed between the
the Clyde and Tweed basins till it reaches Clyde Law
(1789), and then from that to the point (1566) S of the
source of the Tweed where the counties of Peebles, Dum-
fries, and Lanark meet. The principal summits along
this line are Culter Fell (2454 feet), Glenwhappen Rig
(2262), Hillshaw Head (2141), Coomb Dod (2082), Cul-
ter Clench Sbank (1801), Black Dod (1797), Bog Hill
(1512), and Fletcher Hill (1522). From the point
where the counties meet the line strikes south-westward
across the valley of Eyan Water by Black Fell (1522
feet), Greenhill Dod (1403), Campland Hill (1571), and
Mosshope Bank (East 1670 ; West 1583) to the shoulder
of Hods Hill at the 1750 contour and along the water-
shed between the Clyde and Annan basins by Beld Knowe
(1661) and the shoulder of JMosshope Fell, then across
the valley of White Burn (Clyde) between Torrs (1598,
Lanark) and Pdvox Fell (1593, Dumfries), and thence in
a zigzag westward to Whiteside Hill (1817). From that
it passes SW across Crook Burn (Clyde) to Lamb Hill
(1777 feet), and thence again along the watershed S and
W by the S summit of Earncraig Hill (2000) to the NE
summit of Gana Hill (2190). From this the line strikes
northward and north-westward along the watershed be-
tween the basins of the Clyde and Nith to Whiteside
Hill (1285 feet) E of Glenrae Burn, where it strikes
across the valley of the burn, reaches the watershed
again at Long Knowe (1216), and then westward to
Mount Stuart (1567), where it strikes across the hollow
of a burn flowing from the NE into Spango Water (Nith),
and so to the point on the .shoulder of White Hill on
the 1250 contour where the counties of Dumfries, Ayr,
and Lanark meet, at what is known as Threeshire Stone.
The principal summits along the line from Gana Hill
to this point are Wedder Law (South 2185 ; North
2043), Scaw'd Law (2166), Little Scaw'd Law (1928),
Durisdeer Hill (1861), Well Hill (1987), Comb Head
(1998), Lowther Hill (2377), Wanlock Dod (1808),
Sowen Dod (1784), Snarhead Hill (1663), Reecleuch
Hill (1416), Slough Hill (1419), Bught Hill (1481),
Leftshaw Hill (1513). From Threeshire Stone the line
takes an irregular northerly direction along the water-
shed between the basins of the Clyde and the Ayr by
Stony Hill (South 1843 ; North 1771), Cairn Table (1944),
Little Cairn Table (1693), and Brack Hill (1306) to the
reservoir on the head waters of the Douglas (Clyde) E of
Glen buck station on the Muirkirk section of the Cale-
donian railway. It crosses this reservoir near the centre
and crosses the top of Hareshaw Hill (1527 feet) to
Galawhistle Burn, along which it turns westward for 1
mile and then strikes westward again along the water-
shed to the head of the Avon, the chief hills being
Priesthill Height (1615 feet), Goodbush Hill (1556),
Bibblon Hill (1412), and Wedder Hill (1342). From
Avon Head the line follows the course of the Avon for
about 5 miles, and then turns up the course of a burn
which joins it from the N, and follows this to its source
near ]\leadowfoot, whence it strikes irregularly across to
the point between Quarry Hill and the Laird's Seat on
Glen Water, where the counties of Ayr, Renfrew, and
Lanark meet, and roughly follows Glen Water to its
source. From that it passes to Threepland Burn and
along the course first of it and then of the White Cart
as iar as Netherlee, where it passes up the course of a
burn from the E and along by the W side of the grounds
of Cathcart Castle to Mallsmire Burn E of GL.\srxOW, and
down that and Polmadie Burn to within ^ mile of the
Clyde. From this it twists in an extremely irregular
line through Glasgow, touching the Clyde at Springfield
Quay, and then winding back by Ibrox and along the

LANABESHIRE

boundary of Goa'AN parisli to Renfrew. The whole
boundary is therefore almost coincident with the water-
shed of the middle and upper part of the basin of the
Clyde, and the county is almost eq^uivalent with the
district known as Clydesdale.*

Districts and Surface. — According to Hamilton of
Wishaw — ' The shyre of Lanark was anciently of greater
extent than now it is ; for there was comprehended in
it the whole sheriffdome of Ranfrew lying laigher upon
Clyde, called of old the Baronie of Ranfrew (and is yett
so designed when the Prince's titles are enumerate)
untill it was disjoyned therefra by King Robert the
Third, in anno 1402, at such tyme as he erected what
had been his father's patrimonie, before his accession
to the Crown, in ane Principalitie in favour of his
sone, Prince James. And then, because of the large-
ness of its extent, it was divyded into two Wairds,
called the Upper and the Nether AVaird ; and the burgh
of Lanark declared to be the head burgh of the upper
waird and Rutherglen of the nether waird : and since
the dissolving of the shire of Ranfrew from the sheriff-
dome of Lanark, the burgh of Lanark is the head burgh
of the sheriffdome of Lanark, and Rutherglen the head
burgh of the nether waird thereof.' And he adds that,
about the year 1455, the predecessor of the Duke of
Hamilton became by the gift of James IL heritable
sheriff, and that from that date the sheriff-deputes held
courts at Lanark and Hamilton, the latter being ' more
ceutricall for the nether waird than the burgh of
Rutherglen.' From this time till the middle of last
century the county continued to form two wards ; but
then, in consequence of the increase of the population,
a fresh division was made into three wards — the Upper,
Middle, and Lower — Lanark still remaining the county
town and the chief town of the upper, while Hamilton
became the capital of the middle ward, and Glasgow of the
lower ; and in consequence of the rapid increase of some of
the coal towns of the middle ward, this has been again sub-
divided into two portions, with the seats of administra-
tion at Hamilton and Airdrie. Politically the county is
divided into North Lanarkshire and South Lanarkshire,
each division returning a member to serve in parliament.
The former contains the whole of the lower ward and
the parishes of Avondale, Blantyre, Bothwell, Cambus-
lang, Dalziel, East Kilbride, Glassford, Hamilton, New
Monkland, and Old Monkland, in the middle ward.
South Lanarkshire contains the whole of the upper
ward and the parishes of Cambusnethan, Dalserf, Shotts,
and Stonehouse in the middle ward. The dividing line
begins at Goodbush Hill on the SW, passes along Kype
Water and the Avon to the bend at Stonehouse, then in
an irregular line to Millheugh, and from Larkhall N to
the Clyde, thence by the E of Dalziel policies to the South
Calder at Cleland, from that to Chapelhall Burn, and
up the stream to Hillend Reservoir. The upper ward
contains 332,337-536 acres, of which 1874-864 are water ;
the middle ward 194,211-438, of which 1868-038 are
water ; and the lower ward 42, 318 -682, of which 847 -168
are water and 27-408 are foreshore.

The surface of the county is very varied, but, speaking
generally, rises from NW to S and SE up the valley of
the Clyde, and from this again towards either side, the
highest ground lying mostly along the borders ; while
the whole of the S is simply a choppy sea of rounded
hill tops, with great undulating stretches of moorland,
stretching away brown and bare as far as the eye can

* The boundary line here given is that on the lately issued
1-inch and G-inch sheets of the Ordnance Survey we have con-
sulted, but there are several points where the boundary seems
very doubtful. One of these has been already referred to in the
article Brouqhton, and there is another at the extreme S. In
the map in the new edition of the Encyclopcedia Britannica, and
in the reduced Ordnance Survey maps issued by Messrs A. & C.
Black, the boundary is made to follow the watershed from the
back of Hamarty Hill, round the head of Crook Burn, on to the
shoulder of Queensberry Hill (2285 feet), and thence back to Earn-
craig Hill ; and the authors of The Upper Ward of Lanarkshire De-
scribed and Delineated mention that at least some of the Ordnance
sheets show the same line. We have to thank Mr John Smith,
jun., assessor for the Upper Ward of Lanarkshire, for assistance
in an attemjjt to settle the matter; but it etill remains pretty
much wliere it was.
66

LANARKSHIRE

reach. 'The mountains,' says ]\Ir Naismith in his
Agricultural Survey of Clydesdale in 1794, 'are so
huddled together that their grandeur is lost to the eye
of a beholder. When he traverses a hollow only the
sides of the nearest mountain are presented to his view ;
and when he climbs an eminence he sees nothing but a
confused group of rugged tops, with the naked rock
frequently appearing among the herbage.' But though
they thus lack the greatness of the Highland mountains,
the hills of this beginning of the Southern Uplands
have peculiar characteristics of their own. They are,
says Dr John Brown, 'not sharp and ridgy like the
Highland mountains —

' " Curling their monstrous heads and hanging them " —

like the fierce uplifted waves of a prodigious sea — they
are more like round-backed lazy billows in the after-
swell of a storm, as if tumbling about in their sleep.
They have all a sonsie, good-humoured, huirdly look.'
Dr Archibald Geikie has the same praise for it. ' It is,'
he says in his Scenery and Geology of Scotland, speaking,
however, generally of the Southern Uplands, ' in short,
a smooth, green, pastoral country, cultivated along the
larger valleys, with its hills left bare for sheep, yet
showing enough of dark bushless moor to remind us of
its altitude above the more fertile plains that bound it
on the northern and southern sides. Yet with all this
tameness and uniformity of outline, there is something
irresistibly attractive in the green monotony of these
lonely hills, with their never-ending repetitions of the
same pasture-covered slopes, sweeping down into the
same narrow valleys, through Avhich, amid strips of
fairy-like meadow, the same clear stream seems ever to
be murmuring on its way beside us. Save among the
higher districts, there is nothing savage or rugged in
the landscapes. Wandering through these uplands, we
feel none of that oppressive awe which is called forth by
the sterner features of the north. There is a tenderness
in the landscape —

' " A grace of forest charms decayed
And pastoral melancholy " —

that, in place of subduing and overawing us, calls forth
a sympathy which, though we cannot perchance tell
why it should be given, we can hardly refuse to give.'

The difference in the names of places is also to be noted,
there being a total absence of the Celtic titles that prevail
to the N of the central valley of Scotland. The heights
are all hills, or dods, or laws, or rigs, or fells, or heads,
or banks, with one or two cairns ; but hens and sgurrs
and meals are totally absent. On the NE border the
bills do not rise to 1000 feet till near the point where
the counties of Edinburgh, Peebles, and Lanark meet,
and here the SW end of the Pentland Hills slopes out
in White Craig (1425 feet), Black Birn (1213), Harrows
Law (1360), Black Law (1336), Bleak Law (1460), Mid
Hill (1347), and Left Law (1210). West of the Clyde
at Symington are the Tinto Hills, the principal being
Tinto Tap (2335 feet). Scant Hill (1925) to the E, and
Lochlyock Hill (1734) to the W. Besides the heights
already mentioned as occurring along the borders of the
county, the others in the district S, SE, and SW of
Tinto attain a height of from 1000 to 2403 feet. Only
a few of the more important summits can here be given.
About Lamington, Lamington Hill (1614 feet). Broad-
hill (1520), and Uungavel Hill (1675) ; along the SE
towards the border, \Vard Law (1578), Woodycleugh
Dod (1769), Snowgill Hill (1S74), Windgill Bank (1842),
The Seat (1939), Rome Hill (1852), Tewsgill Hill (1867),
Dun Law (1669), Blackwater Rig (1676), Fairburn Rig
(1779), Midge Hill (1613), Yearngill Head (1804), The
Dod (1599),^Lady Cairn (1716), Harleyburn Head (1776),
Erickstane Hill (1527), Tomont Hill (1652), and Winter-
clench Fell (1804) ; in the extreme S, Comb Law (2107),
Rodger Law (2257), Ballencleuch Law (2267), and Shiel
Dod (2190) ; about the village of Leadhills— which is
itself 1307 feet above sea-level, and the highest inha-
bited land in Scotland— are Rake Law (1620), Wellgrain
Dod (1613), Harryburu Brae (1829), Louisie Wood Ltiw

457

LANABESHIBE

(2028), White Law (1941), Dun Law (2216), Dungrain
Law (2186), and Green Lowther (2402, the highest hill
in the county) ; near Crawfordjohn, Black Hill (1260),
Drake Law (1584), and Mountherrick Hill (1400) ; along
the upper waters of the Duneaton and Douglas, Com-
mon Hill (1370), Craig Kinny (1616), Wedder Dod
(1507), Fingland Hill (1511), Douglas Rig (1454), Dry-
rigs Hill (1443), Achandaff Hill (1399), Hartwood Hill
(1311), Urit Hill (1476), Parish-holm Hill (1400),
"Windrow Hill (1297), and Hagshaw Hill (1540) ; W of
the upper waters of the Douglas, Meikle Auchinstilloch
(1609), Nutberry Hill (1712), Auchingilloch (1514),
Dunside Rig (1308), Harting Rig (1475), and Side Hill
(1411) ; near the point on Glen Water, where Ayr,
Renfrew, and Lanark meet, Muir Hill (1096), Laird's
Seat (1185), Ardochrig Hill (1130), and Ellrig (1215),
from which the ground slopes northward to the Clyde.

Though the upper ward is as we have seen much more
extensive than either of the other wards, it is com-
paratively far less valuable. Its uplands occupy a very
large proportion of the area, and at least f of the entire
area are occupied by poor pasture or waste, and un-
improvable moorland. Of the remainder, however,
especially along the Carlisle road, and among the ver-
dant holms which in many places stretch along the
Clyde and its tributaries, are well wooded, fertile, and
in some cases highly cultivated tracts. Many of the
hills are green, even to the very top, and produce pas-
ture the quality of which is attested by the excellence
of the sheep reared on it. In the lower part of the
ward the hard and barren aspect is entirely softened ;
and hill and dale, and wood and meadow are combined
so as to produce scenery noted for its beauty, the dis-
trict around the Falls of Clyde near Lanark being par-
ticularly well known. Though the middle ward is
essentially lowland, the surface is very varied, and
except in the alluvial meads along the streams but little
of it is flat. High hills occupy the SW border, and
lofty moors stretch along the NE, while the centre
slopes away from the valley of the Clyde in rolling
undulations. The most fertile district is the central
one, along both banks of the Clyde from end to end of
the ward, measuring upwards of 12 miles in length and
nearly 6 in average breadth. The drive from Lanark to
Bothwell is remarkably fine. The hills are covered with
pasture or copse to the very top, and dotted all along
are policies of mansion-houses well wooded with fine
old trees. Here, too, are the orchards for which Clydes-
dale has been famous since the days of the Venerable
Bede, and which still produce excellent crops of apples,
pears, plums, gooseberries, currants, and strawberries.
The last three, though of later introduction than the
others, are those that are now mostly attended to. It
is in this ward also as well as in the lower part of the
upper ward that the coal and iron industries to be
afterwards noticed are mostly concentrated. The lower
ward is generally level or with but gentle undulations, the
only considerable height being the ridge of Cathkin and
Dechmont (602 feet) along the SW border. Small, how-
ever, as the district is, compared with either of the other
two, it yet derives very great importance from contain-
ing the city of Glasgow and its environs ; while the
artificial deepening of the Clyde, and the improvements
in its navigation, give this district and its vast popula-
tion and manufactures all the same advantages of com-
merce as if it lay on the coast and had commodious har-
bours. In the upper ward there is very good shooting.

Rivers and Lochs. — The drainage of the county is
almost entirely carried off by the Clyde, which, rising
in the extreme S of the county, flows "at first N to be-
tween Pettinain and Carnwath, and then in a general
north-westerly direction to the Firth at Dumbarton. The
course of the river and its tributaries are separately
noticed in the article Clyde, and we shall merely here
mention the drainage basins. The rainfall of the
extreme S is carried off" by Daer Water (the principal
source of the river) and the burns that flow into it, the
principal being Crook Burn (E), which rises at Queens-
berry Hill in Dumfriesshii-e, and Powtrail Water (W),
458

LANARESHIEE

which is erroneously marked on the Ordnance Survey
map as Potrail. On the E and N of the main basin the
district S of Culter is drained by Culter Water ; about
Biggar by Biggar Water, and the burns that join it
flowing through Peeblesshire to the Tweed ; E and NE
of Carnwath, at the end of the Pentland Hills, by the
South Medwin and the North Medwin, uniting to form
the Medwin which joins the Clyde at the sharp bend
between Pettinain and Carnwath ; NE of Lanark by
Abbey Burn (N) and Dippool Water (E), which unite
to form Mouse AVater joining the Clyde about 1 mile
below Lanark ; between Lanark and AVishaw by Fiddler
Bm-n, Jock's Burn, and Garrion Gill ; N of Wishaw by
South Calder Water joining the Clyde opposite Hamil-
ton ; S of Coatbridge by North Calder Water joining
the Clyde below Uddingston, and by Forrestburn Water
flowing to the Avon between Linlithgowshire and Stir-
lingshire ; the rest of the N by the Luggie, flowing into
the Kelvin, and the Kelvin itself, both streams running
part of their course along the borders of the detached
portion of Dumbartonshire already noticed. As the
Clyde runs nearer to the E and N sides of the county than
to the SW and W, the tributaries that join it from these
directions are much larger and more important than
those just given — Duneaton AVater, Douglas AVater,
and the Avon, which are considerable streams, are
noticed particularly in separate articles. The district
about LeadhUls is drained by Glengonner AA^ater and
Elvan AA'"ater ; between Cairntable and the Clyde about
Crawfordjohn by Duneaton AVater, SAV and NE of
Douglas b}' Douglas AA'ater, S and N of Lesmahagow by
the Nethan ; about Strathaven, Stonehouse, and Lanark
by the Avon ; between Hamilton and East Kilbride by
Rotten Calder AVater, which joins the Clyde below the
mouth of North Calder AA^ater ; and farther AV on the
border of Renfrewshire by the AVhite Cart. The scenery
along the Clyde and its tributaries, which is in many
places very beautiful, is noticed partly in the articles on
these streams themselves, and partly in the separate
articles on the parishes through which they flow. The
lochs of Lanarkshire are neither numerous nor important.
Between Glasgow and Coatbridge are Hogganfield, Frank-
field, Bishop, Johnston, AVoodend, and Lochend Lochs ;
the N shore of Bishop Loch is occupied by the policies
of Gartloch House, and the SE end of Lochend Loch by
the woods of Drumpellier. To the E of Airdrie, and
between that and the border of the county, are a reser-
voir near Chapelhall, and NE from that Lilly Loch,
Hillend Reservoir for supplying the Monkland Canal
with water, and Black Loch on the border and partly
in Stirlingshire. North of Dunsyre, in a bleak district
of considerable elevation, is Crane Loch, and AV of Carn-
wath is AVhite Loch with banks partly wooded. South-
east of Lanark, and surrounded by wood, is Lang Loch.
None of them are of any great size, the largest being
Hillend Reservoir, 1 mile long, ^ wide, and covering
307 acres ; Bishop Loch, 1 mile long and 2 furlongs
wide ; and the reservoir near Chapelhall, 6 furlongs long
and 2 wide. For fishing the lochs are almost worthless,
but in the rivers good sport is in many cases to be had,
trout varying from J lb. to 5 lbs.

Geology. — The geology of this county possesses features
of special importance on account of the remarkable de-
velopment of the Carboniferous formation, with its
valuable beds of coal, ironstone, and limestone. This
great formation occupies the whole of the Clyde basin,
from Crossford, at the mouth of the Nethan AVater, to
the limits of the county round Glasgow. Briefly stated,
it may be said to form a trough or syncline running in
a NNE and SSAV direction ; the centre being occupied by
the highest members of the system, while the lower
divisions come to the surface in regular succession round
the edge of the basin, save where the natural order is
disturbed by faults. To the S of this area of Carboni-
ferous rocks lies the Douglas coalfield in the heart of a
great development of Lower Old Red Sandstone strata ;
while beyond the limits of the Old Red Sandstone, in the
uplands in the S of the county, we have a portion of the
belt of Lower Silurian rocks which stretch from sea to sea.

LANAEESniBE

Beginning with the Lower SUurian rocks forming the
high grounds round the sources of the Clyde, they are
bounded on the N by a line drawn from the village of
Crawfordjohn, NE by Koberton, Lamiugton, to the edge
of the county near Culter. This line indicates the posi-
tion of a great fault which brings the Lower Old Red
Sandstone into conjunction with the Lower Silurian
rocks. To the S of this dislocation the Silurian strata
are throwTi into a synclinal fold, in the centre of Avhich
occm' grits and conglomerates yielding fossils of Caradoc
age. These are underlaid by black shales charged with
graptolites, grey and olive shales, flags and greywackes,
with a band of line conglomerate locally known as ' the
Haggis Rock. ' To the N" of the fault just referred to,
strata of L^pper Silurian age occur in the midst of the Old
Red Sandstone area, in two separate tracts which have
been revealed by the denudation of the later formations.
They occur along the crests of anticlinal folds running
in a NE and SW direction. One of these areas of Upper
Silurian rocks extends along the arch of the Hagshaw
Hills N of Douglas ; while the other is traceable from
the Logan Water S\Y by Nutberry Hill and Priesthill
Height, to the Greenock Water N of Muirkirk. In each
case, on the N side of the anticlinal fold, there is a regular
ascending series from the Upper Silurian rocks into the
basement beds of the Lower Old Red Sandstone, while on
the S side of the arch, the natural succession is disturbed
by a powerful fault. At the top of the series the strata
consist of sandy flags and shales with green shales, sandy
mudstones, and sandstone bands graduating downwards
into blue shales with calcareous nodules. The latter
horizon yielded the famous specimens of Euryptcrids to
the late Dr Slimon of Lesmahagow, the best examples
having been obtained in the Logan Water above Dun-
side. Below this horizon the beds consist of alterna-
tions of yellow crusted greywackes, flags, and shales.
The base of the series is not reached, however, but alto-
gether there must be about 3500 feet of strata exposed
in the various sections.

The Lower Old Red Sandstone, as developed in the
county, is divisible into three gi'oups, which are here
stated in ascending order — (1) a lower group consisting
of alternations of conglomerates and sandstones, with
occasional green and red mudstones ; (2) a middle
group composed mainly of contemporaneous volcanic
rocks, save at the top where thin intercalations of
sandstones and conglomerates are met with ; (3) an
upper group consisting of sandstones, grits, and con-
glomerates, with pebbles of porphyrite. The lowest of
these groups is most largely developed in Lanarkshire.
It extends from Tinto Hill N by Carmichael and the
well-known ravine of the Clyde near Lanark, to a point
on the river not far from Crossford. It forms a tongue
also to the XE of Lanark in the direction of Kilcadzow,
while, towards the W, the members of this group are
traceable b}^ Lesmahagow to the Upper Silurian tract of
Nutberry Hill. But further, they cover the whole area
between this Upj^er Silurian tract and the Lower Car-
boniferous volcanic rocks of the Avon, and they are also
met with on both sides of the Upper Silurian anticline
on the Hagshaw Hills.

The members of the middle group extend along the
margin of the Douglas coalfield, lapping round the S
and E slopes of Tinto, and stretching N as far as Than-
kerton and Covington. In this district the volcanic
rocks are inclined to the S, but they reappear at Lamiug-
ton with a N dip. On the slopes of Tinto the members
of the lower group are inclined to the N, and they are
covered unconformablj^ by the gi-een and purple porphy-
rites and melaphjTes of the middle division. It is evi-
dent, therefore, that we have, in the Tinto area, a con-
tinuation of the marked unconformity between these
groups which obtains in the Pentlands. This uncon-
formability is, however, merely local, for when we pass
W to the section in the Duneaton Water, we find a
regular ascending series from the one group into the
other. Dr Archibald Geikie has suggested that this local
unconformity, which extends from Midlothian into
Lanarkshire, may be connected with the early stages of

LANARKSHIRE

the volcanic activity which resulted in the ejection of
the lavas and ashes constituting the middle group of the
Lower Old Red Sandstone.

The strata comprising the upper subdivision lie in a
synclinal fold of the volcanic series between the Clyde
at Lamington and the Duneaton Water. At the base the
beds consist of grey grits and yellow sandstones passing
upwards into massive conglomerates, which are overlaid
by chocolate sandstones. In this group we have indica-
tions of the cessation of volcanic activity. The sand-
stones at the base are largely composed of trappean de-
tritus, and the pebbles in the conglomerates are com-
posed mainly of porphyrite obtained from the degrada-
tion of the previously erupted lavas.

The Upper Silurian and Lower Old Red Sandstone
strata are pierced by dykes and sheets of quartz-felsite.
These intrusive masses may be traced along the S side
of the Upper Silurian tract at Xutberry Hill, whence
they are continued W into Ayrshire. In the Old Red
Sandstone areas the quartz-felsite has been injected
mainl}^ along the lines of bedding, and hence the trend
of the intrusive masses varies with the strike of the
strata. The crest of Tinto is composed of a great in-
trusive sheet of pink felsite, which is evidently older
than the volcanic series of the Lower Old Red Sand-
stone, inasmuch as the latter group laps round the fel-
site and reposes on it unconformabl}'. Similar intru-
sive masses occur in the Nethau Water section at Les-
mahagow, and in the Clyde at Hazlebank. On the
county boundary, lietween Lanarkshire and Ayrshire, at
Blackside End, SW of Strathavon, there is an interest-
ing example of local metamorphism ; the felspathic
sandstones and grits having been converted into crystal-
line rocks, such as minette and granite.

The order of succession of the various divisions of the
Carboniferous system in the basin of the Clyde may be
readily grasped from the following table, condensed from
the official reports of the Geological Survey ; the diffe-
rent groups being given in descending order :

^(2.) Sandstones, shales, marls,
f I and fireclays, with no work-

able coal seams.
(1.) Sandstones, dark shales, and
fireclays, with valuable coal
seams and ironstones.
Coarse grits and sandstones, with
I thick beds of fireclay. Tliin
{ coals and ironstones and thin
J limestones are occasionally
V^ associated with this division.
({Z.) Limestones, sandstones, and
shales, with thin coals.
(2.) Sandstones and shales, with
valuable coal seams and iron-
stones, but no limestones.
(1.) Limestones, sandstones, and
shales, with seams of coal and
V ironstone.

({2..) Sandstones, shales, marls,
and fireclays, with cement-
stone bands (cementstone
group). In the AV of Lanark-
shire this group is represented
■{ by a great succession of inter-
bedded volcanic rocks.
(1.) Red sandstones and con-
glomerates, with comstones,
resting unconformably on
older formations.

Round the SE margin of the Clyde basin the two sub-
divisions of the Calciferous Sandstone series are typically
represented. The lower red sandstone group extends
from Hyndford Bridge on the Clyde E by Carnwath to
the county boundary at DunsjTe Hill, being a continua-
tion of the Cairn Hill sandstones of the Pentland chain,
while the members of the cementstone group lap round
the tongue of Lower Old Red Sandstone at Kilcadzow.
In this portion of the basin there is clear evidence of the
gradual disappearance of the lower group, and of the
overlap of the cementstones, for in the section of the
Mouse Water and its tributaries the latter rest directly
on the Lower Old Red Sandstone. This overlap gradu-
ally increases towards the W, for between the valley of
the Clyde and Strathavon the Carboniferous Limestone
rests immediately on the Old Red Sandstone. Though

459

Carboniferous
Formation.

Coal
Measures.

Millstone
Grit.

Carboniferous

Limestone

Series.

Calciferous

Sandstone

Series.

LANABESHIBE

the general type of the cementstone group in the SE
part of the basin is widely difl'erent irom that in the
basin of the Forth, j-et it is important to note that at
Auchengray there is a thin development of white sand-
stones and dark shales at the top of the series which
evidently represent the oil shales of Llidlothian. These
two groups are also met with in the basin of Carboni-
ferous rocks at Douglas. They ilank the basin on the
E side, dipping below the Carboniferous Limestone
series at Ponfeigh, and they also occur at the SW
margin in tlie Kennox and Carmacoup "Waters. In
this area additional evidence is obtained of the gradual
disappearance of both these divisions of the Calciferous
Sandstones, and of their being overlapped by the
Carboniferous Limestone. In the Nethan section, about
a mile S from Lesmahagow, and again in tlie district of
Kennox "Water, the latter series rests unconformably
on the Old Eed Sandstone. In the "W of Lanarkshire,
however, along the "W margin of the Clyde basin the
cementstone group is replaced by a great succession of
contemporaneous volcanic rocks, consisting of porphy-
rites, melaphyres, and tuffs indicating prolonged volcanic
activity in the early part of the Carboniferous period.
This great volcanic plateau dips underneath the Car-
boniferous Limestone of the Clyde basin, reapisearing to
the N in the chain of the Campsie Fells. Along the
junction line between the volcanic series and the over-
lying Carboniferous Limestone, ashy grits and shales
intervene, which have been derived from the denudation
of the trappean masses.

The Carboniferous Limestone series forms a belt of
variable width round the Clyde basin, extending
from East Kilbride by West Quarter to Auchen-
heath near Lesmahagow. From thence it crosses
the Clyde at Crossford, and is traceable by Carluke
and "Wilsontown to the county boundary. Along this
area the triple classification of the series is clearly
marked, but perhaps it is most typically developed in
the neighbourhood of Carluke. In that district the
lowest group contains from twelve to fifteen beds of
limestone of variable thickness ; the middle group com-
prises five seams of coal from 3 inches to 4 feet thick ;
■while the upper division includes three beds of lime-
stone. The Gair limestone, long known for its fossils,
is the highest band in the Carboniferous Limestone
series of Carluke, and is on the same horizon as the
Levenseat limestone, N of "Wilsontown, and the Castle-
cary limestone of the Stirlingshire coalfield. Between
Glasgow and the Kelvin valley this limestone has not as
yet been identified, and hence the Eobroyston or Calmy
limestone is regarded as the top of this series in that
neighbourhood. In the Auchenheath district the most
valuable mineral is the Lesmahagow gas coal, which
occurs in the middle group. The same subdivisions are
traceable in the Douglas basin, but they approach more
nearly to the types met with in the Muirkirk coalfield.
The limestones of the lower division are not so largely
developed as at Carluke, but the coal seams of the
middle division are more abundant, and they are associ-
ated with blackband and clayband ironstones. At the
base of the upper division a band of limestone, upwards
of 7 feet thick, is met with, which is on the same
horizon as the ' Index ' limestone of the Stirlingsliire and
Dumbartonshire coalfields. Attention has already been
directed to the proofs of overlap in the Clyde and
Douglas basins ; but still more conclusive evidence of
this is supplied by the occurrence of a small outlier of
Carboniferous Limestone on the hills of Old Eed Sand-
stone a mile S of Tinto, while a similar patch occurs not
far to the SW. These phenomena point to the uneven
contour of the old land surface on which the Carbonifer-
ous strata were deposited, and to the gradual sub-
mergence of the old land during the deposition of the
higher OToups.

The Millstone Grit series occurs in the S and SE
portions of the basin, where it is of considerable thick-
ness ; it is also found in the N part of the basin between
Hogganfield and Glenboig ; on the W side it is thrown
out by faults bringing the Coal-measures into conjunc-
460

LANARESHIBE

tion with the Carboniferous Limestone and the volcanic
rocks of the Cathkin Hills. This group yields ex-
cellent firecla3-s in the N part of the county, which are
worked at Glenboig, Gartcosh, and Garnkirk.

The Coal-measures, with their overlying red sand-
stones, occupy a wide area, extending from Glasgow E
bj"^ Coatbridge and Airdrie to the county boundary at
Fauldhouse Moor. Towards the S they run up the
valley of the Clyde as far as Dalserf, while in the
Douglas basin a small outlier is also met with. A
vertical section of the Clyde coalfield comprises up-
wards of eleven beds of coal, of which the Ell, the Pyot-
shaw, the Main, the Splint, the Virtuewell, and the
Kiltongue seams are the most important. The bands
of ironstone vary in number from four to seven, the
highest being the Palacecraig band, which, however, is
only of local occurrence. The coalfield is traversed by
numerous faults, many of which run in an E and "\V
direction, repeating the various seams and causing them
to spread over a wider area. The red sandstones form-
ing the upper division of the Coal-measures probably
rest unconformably on the lower group, but the evidence
is not so conclusive as in Ayrshire.

Throughout the Carboniferous area various intrusive
sheets of basalt rock occur, partly in the Carboniferous
Limestone series, partly in the IMillstone Grit, and partly
in the Coal-measures. Of these the largest masses occur
in the neighbourhood of Shotts ; others are to be met
with at Hogganfield near Glasgow ; while still smaller
bosses come to the surface near Carluke and Wilson-
town. In the Carluke district also, at Yieldshields, and
to the E of Kilcadzow, several ' necks ' pierce the
Carboniferous strata which represent old volcanic orifices,
probably of Permian age. Still more interesting are the
long narrow dykes of basalt of Miocene age which are
found throughout the count}'. Two of them run
parallel with each other from the Hagshaw Hills near
Douglas, SE by Abington to near the county boundary.

In the N part of the Clyde basin another of these
dykes is traceable from Chryston by Greengairs to
Limerig.

The direction of the ice-flow in the upper part of the
county is toward the N, but on reaching the great mid-
land valley where the ice from the southern uplands
coalesced with that streaming from the Highlands, the
trend veers round to the E. Throughout the county
there is a great development of boulder clay and deposits
of sand and gravel, either in the form of high level
terraces, or ridged up in long kames as on the mossy
ground NE of Carstairs. The 100-feet, 50-feet, and
25-feet sea-beaches are also represented in the lower
reaches of the Clyde. The shellj- clays occurring along
the estuary will be referred to in connection with the
geolog}' of Eenfrewshire.

Soils and Agriculhirc. — It may generally be said that
in the centre and W of the county the soil is cold and
clayey, and everywhere intermixed with tracts of bog,
while in the SE the soil is light and open. In the S a
very large proportion of the parishes of Douglas, Whis-
ton, Lamington, Culter, Crawfordjohn, and Crawford
ma)' be said to be uncultivated, while considerable tracts
of East Kilbride, Avondale, Lesmahagow, and Car-
michael, as well as of New Blonkland, Shotts, Cambus-
nethan, Carluke, Carnwath, Dunsyre, Walston, and
Dolphinton are in the same condition. In the upper
ward altogether the soil is poor thin moor or wet moss,
and there is in consequence but little tillage, the dis-
trict being mostly suited for rough feeding for stock,
and hence it is given up to sheep and dairy farming.
Where cultivation is carried on the principal crops are
barley and oats, though wheat is found to thrive in the
lower valleys. The climatic conditions are much the
same as in any other tract of the same altitude, with keen
winter frosts and the winds chilly even at midsummer.
In the middle ward on the ground farthest from the
Clyde, and occupying about ^ of the whole district, the
soil is peat and improved moor ; in the centre, strong clay
intermixed with sand ; and along the banks of the Clyde
and its large tributaries, fertile alluvial deposits overlying

LANAEESHIRE

gravel. The climate is mild though somewhat damp.
Of the 551 acres which in 1882 were occupied by orchards
within the county, the great proportion is in this ward.
Even in the lower ward the soil is to a considerable extent
of a mossy or moory nature, and was originally in man}'
places bleak and unkindly, but the greater part of it has
now been brought into a state of high cultivation. The
climate, though mild, is damp, rain falling very fre-
quently during southerly and south-westerly winds. Con-
sidering the neighbourhood of such a large population
as that inhabiting Glasgow and its suburbs, it is note-
worthy that only 319 acres were in 1882 occupied by
market gai'dens, while in the county of Edinburgh, with
a population in its neighbourhood of only J the size,
930 acres were so employed. The difference may be
explained by the ready sea communication between
Glasgow and a large extent of vegetable-rearing country,
including Ireland.

"Westerly and south-westerly winds prevail during, on
an average, 240 days in the year, and as they come from
the Atlantic, with but little modification from the inter-
vening land, they have all the mildness derived from
contact with the heated waters of the Gulf Stream, and,
being at the same time heavily charged with vapour, they
generally, when they come in contact with the colder
rising-grounds, cause heavy rains. In the middle ward
rain often falls on the heights on both sides, while the
trough of the Clyde escapes. "Winds from the XE are
next in frequency to those from the SW, and though
cold are generally dry, and the same may be said of the
winds from the N and NW which are least frequent of
all. East winds, though sharper than those from the
W or SW, are so modified by the high ground to the E
that they seldom bring to Lanarkshire such cold and
damp as they diffuse along the eastern seaboard. In
the low grounds intense frost is seldom of long continu-
ance, and deep long-lying snow is very rare. The most
dangerous period of the year for agriculture is seed-time,
for owing to continuous wet weather sowing must either
take place while the soil is quite unfit for it, or is kept
back till an unduly late period.

Notwithstanding, however, all the drawbacks of
climate, the agriculture of Lanarkshire is now in a high
condition, and the progress of the improvement that
first began with vigorous draining, enclosing, and plant-
ing operations in the latter half of the 18th century has
been ever since steady and rapid ; and, though a great
deal still remains to be accomplislied before matters can
attain to the high standard that prevails throughout
the Lothians, it must be remembered that there are
here much stifler obstacles to contend against. The
areas under the various crops at different dates are given
in the following tables : —

Grain Crops. — Acres.

Year.

Wheat.

Barley or
Bere.

Oats.

Total.

1854
1870

1877
1882

6441

5838
3729
3592

2543 1 56,117 j 65,101

1146 1 47,696 54,680

492 46,079 50,300

874 46,905 51,371

Grass, Root Crops, etc. — Acres.

Voor Hai' and Grass
^^^- in Rotation.

Permanent
Pasture.

Turnips.

Potatoes.

1854
1870
1877

1882

97,120
77,195
68,940
64,713

73.597

82,132

101,874

113,989

10,886
10,398
10,003
9,151

8017
8816
7996
7669

while there are about 4300 acres annually under beans,
rye, vetches, fallow, etc. As 1854 was the first year of
the agricultural returns, it is possibly not very accurate,
for tiie figures look unduly high. The acres under
sown crop, exclusive of hay and grass, amount as given
in that year to 93,040, but in 1866 the number was only
72,509 ; in 1868, 72,293 ; in 1870— the highest year—

LANARKSHIRE

77,179 ; in 1874, 70,943 ; and in 1882, 71,726. The
average therefore, leaving 1854 and the abnormally high
year 1870 out of account, is about 72,000 acres. 'While
this has, however, remained pretty steady, the total area
under crop, bare fallow, and grass of all kinds has in-
creased from 237,791 acres in "l870 to 251,121 in 1882,
and it is very noteworthy that the whole increase has
been in permanent pasture, the grass under rotation
having fallen olf very considerably. This is probably
partly due to the results of the recent wet seasons in the
higher districts, and partly to the advantages of keeping
stock for the high-priced meat market. The latter
reason is fully borne out by the very considerably in-
creased numbers of the sheep and cattle within recent
years, as shown in the following table of the live stock
at various periods. The farms are mostly worked on
the five shift rotation. The average yield of wheat per
acre is 32 bushels ; barley and bere, 35 ; oats, 34 ; tur-
nips, 15 tons ; and potatoes, 4^ tons.

The agricultural live stock in the county at different
periods is shown in the following table: —

11 !

1 Year. Cattle, j Horses, i Sheep. Pigs, i Total.

1854 58,954 i 7241 127,916

1870 59,877 i 6505 210,109

1876 65,147 7522 213,535

j 1882 64,850 7610 ' 210,322

8891 203,002
8679 285,170
8268 ■ 294,472
7637 j 290,419

Throughout the county generally the cattle are Ayr-
shires of greater or less purity or crosses produced by
breeding with Ayrshire cows and a shorthorn bull, and
in the upper parishes there are also considerable numbers
of Highland cattle kept. There are many large dairy-
farms, partly for the supply of milk and butter to Glas-
gow, and, particularly in the upper ward, for the manu-
facture of Dunlop cheese, the most esteemed qualities
coming from Carnwath and Lesmahagow. The sheep
stock is about equally divided between Cheviots and
blackfaced, though crosses from Cheviot rams have now
become pretty common. Down to about 1790 there were
none but blackfaced, and though Cheviots were intro-
duced about that year they made very slow progress, and
it was not till after 1840 that they became at all common.
The horses are of a breed which, from having originated
in the district, is known as the Clydesdale, and which
has now attained a world-wide celebrity. The tradition,
as given in the old Statistical Accotmt, was that Clydes-
dales resulted from a cross between a Flemish stallion
and a Scotch mare, the former having been introduced
by the Duke of Hamilton about the middle of the 17th
century ; but Alton in his Report on the AgrictiUiire of
Ayrshire (1810) combated this, and maintained that the
breed was originated by John Paterson of Lochlyoch, in
Carmichael, who, between 1715 and 1720, brought from
England a Flemish stallion, and so improved his stock
that it became the most noted in Lanarkshire. Though
this is undoubtedly true, it is also certain that there
were, at a much earlier date, horses in or about Clydes-
dale noted for size, for we find in the Rotuli Scotice for
1352 a safe conduct granted by King Edward to the
Earl of Douglas for ' ten large horses belonging to the
said "William Douglas to come from certain places in
Scotland ' into Teviotdale, and these, some of which
would undoubtedly be about Clj'desdale, may have
prepared the way for subsequent improvements. How-
ever this may be, Clydesdales still retain many charac-
teristics of their Flemish origin, and it is certain that
they originated and were brought to a state of consider-
able perfection last century in the upper ward, and
particularly about Lamington, Libberton, Eoberton,
Symington, Culter, Carmichael, and Pettiuain. In the
beginning of the present century breeding spread from
the upper ward to other parts of the county, and even
to districts outside, and in 1823, at the Highland
Society's show at Perth, a premium of £10 was offered
for the best Clydesdale, fitted for working strong lands,
the object being to encourage ' Draught-horses calculated
for the strong lands, of which there cannot be a better

461

LANARKSHIRE

model than the Clydesdale horse.' Breeding is now
general all over the world, but the cradle of the race
can still hold its own. The points of a good Clydesdale
are:— head with a broad jaw ending in a muzzle Mhich
is not too fine or tapering, but has large open nostrils ;
neck, strong and massive ; shoulder, more oblique than
in the English draught-horse (and hence the admirable
quick step) ; strong forearm, broad flat knee, moderately
sloped pasterns of medium length ; broad low-set hind
quarters, with muscular thighs, and broad well-developed
hocks ; the average height is from 16i to 17 hands,
and the colours that are preferred are different shades
of brown ; generally a portion of one of the legs at
least is white, and "there is a white star or stripe on
the face. The principal pure bred strains now in
Lanarkshire are those at East Haughland near Udding-
ston ; West Farm, Tollcross ; and Spriughill near
Baillieston. In 1880 there were in the county 1406
farms of 50 acres or under, 684 between 50 and 100,
830 between 100 and 300, 76 between 300 and 500, 13
between 500 and 1000, and 1 between 1000 and 1500.
Some of the sheep farms are of considerable size, the
largest being of course in the upper ward. The area
under sheep alone is probably nearly 200,000 acres, and
there are about 30,000 acres quite waste. The largest
proprietors are the Earl of Home, the Duke of Hamilton,
Sir S. M. Lockhart, Sir T. E. Colebrooke, the Ead of
Hopetoun, Sir Wyndham Anstruther, and Lord Laming-
ton, each of whom holds over 10,000 acres, while the
Duke of Buccleuch and Colonel Buchanan of Drumpellier
hold each between 8000 and 10,000. According to
Miscellaneous Statistics of the United Kingdom (1879),
557,919 acres, with a total gross estimated rental of
£4,078,432, were divided among 20,056 landowners, 1
holding 61,943 acres (rental £29,486), 3 from 20,000 to
50,000 (£126,563), 3 from 10,000 to 20,000 (£21,769), 9
from 5000 to 10,000 (£67,783), 26 from 2000 to 5000
(£354,219), 45 from 1000 to 2000 (£123,586), etc. Of the
total of about 20,000 persons who hold land within the
county, about 89 per cent, hold less than one acre. Ex-
cluding the villa residences about the large towns, some of
the principal mansions are Hamilton Palace, Abington
House, Aikenhead House, Allanton House, Auchinairn
House, Auchingray House, Auchinraith, Avonholm,
Barlanark House, Bedlay, Bellahouston, Biggar Park,
Birkwood, Blackwood, Bothwell Castle, Bothwell Park,
Bonnington, Braefield House, Braidwood, Cadder House,
Caldergrove, Calderpark, Calderwood, Cambusnethan
Priory, Cambuswallace, Carfin House, Carmichael House,
Carmyle House, Carnwath House, Carstairs House,
Castlemilk, Cathkin House, Cleghorn House, Cleland
House, Cliftonhill House, Coltness House, Corehouse,
Cornhill, Craighead House, Craigthornhill, Crossbasket,
Crutherland, Culter House, Daldowie, Dalserf House,
Dalziel House, Doljihinton House, Drumpellier, Douglas
Castle, Douglas Park, Earnock House, EasterluU House,
Eastfield, Edmonston Castle, Fairhill, Farmc House,
Frankfield House, Garnkirk House, Gartferry, Gartloch,
Gartsherrie, Hallsidc, Hartree House, Jerviston House,
Kenmure House, Lambhill House, Lawmuir, Lee House,
Letham House, Lymekilns House, JIauldslie Castle,
Milton-Lockhart, Monkland House, Murdoston House,
Muirburn, Netherficld House, Newton House, Robroy'
ston, Rocksoles, Koschall, Ross House, Smyllum,
Springfield, St John's Kirk, Stonebyres, Symington,
Tennochsi(le, Thornwood House, Torrance, Udston
House, Viowpark, Westburn House, Westquarter House,
Wishaw House, and Woodhall.

Iiidustrics. — Prior to 1700 the manufactures of Lanark-
shire were few and unimportant, and even down to 1727
they continued to be less extensive tlian those of either
Perthshire or Forfarshire. About 1750 they began to
develop rapidly, and this became still more the case
after the impulse given to the cotton trade by Sir
Richard Arkwriglit in 1784. Lanarkshire was i)arti-
cularly qualified I'or embracing tliis new industry — first, i
from its possession of an inexhaustible supply of coal ;
and next from having the seaports on the Clyde, by
means of which the merchants of Glasgow could liold
462

LANARKSHIRE

communication with almost all the markets of the
world. And so wealth flowed into the county ; old
coal mines were worked on improved principles with
renewed spirit, and new ones opened ; the iron trade
came into existence ; and hundreds, crowding to all the
centres where minerals abounded, pushed the county
into the first rank for population, wealth, and import-
ance. The extent and richness of the mineral resources
have been noticed in the section dealing with the
geology, and it remains here to notice their economic
importance. The coal and iron pits and works are scat-
tered all over the northern part of the county, and are
noticed in connection with the various parishes in which
they occur, or in separate articles dealing with the
various towns and villages ; but they are principally
concentrated about Glasgow, Coatbridge, Airdrie, Hamil-
ton, Wishaw, and Lesmahagow, where the furnaces for
the manufacture of pig-iron are in some places so nu-
merous as to form a characteristic feature of the district.
Everywhere there are constantly clouds of smoke, the
glare of furnaces, and all the clatter of rolling mills,
foundries, and works for the manufacture of different
kinds of machinery. At Garnkirk, and elsewhere in
Cadder parish, fireclay of excellent quality abounds,
and is largely worked ; and weaving and dyeing, though
now pretty much monopolised by Glasgow and its neigh-
bourhood, are still carried on to a considerable extent
at several places elsewhere. For the cotton, flax, and
silk manufactures, as well as some details of the iron-
works, reference may be made to the article Glasgow.
In 1879 there were within the county 314 iron- works,
with 5149 puddling furnaces and 846 rolling mills ; and
in 1881, from the 35 ironstone mines worked in Lanark-
shire, 698,279 tons of ironstone were produced out of a
total of 2,595,375 tons raised in all Scotland, the only
county turning out more being Ayrshire. Of the
9,000,000,000 tons of coal calculated to be available
in the Scotch coal fields, about one-fourth, or over
2,000,000,000, are in Lanarkshire. In 1881 the 392
coal pits then in operation produced 11,925,644 tons of
coal, out of a total of 20,823,055 produced by the whole
of Scotland. During the same year 9 fireclay pits pro-
duced 211,994 tons of fireclay, out of a total of 407,800
tons for the whole country ; and there were also raised
30,293 tons of oil shale, 82,719 tons of limestone, 8599
tons of building stone, and 1805 tons of dressed lead
ore, containing on an average from 6 to 12 oz. of silver
per ton ; while, in connection with the various pits,
about 26,000 persons were emplo3'ed under ground and
over 5000 on the surface, so that, including wives and
children depending on these, about one-sixth to one-
seventh of the whole j^opulation is connected with the
merely manual part of the mineral industries. The
first ironstone work in the county was begun at Wilson-
town in Carnwath in 1781 ; and the lead comes from
the SW border of the county about Leadhills, near the
source of Glengonner Water, in Crawford parish. Here
mining operations have been carried on for a long time,
for mention of lead from this locality is made in the
accounts of the sheriff of Lanarkshire for 1264, and Leslie
also speaks of it in his Scoticc Descriptio. In the same
neighbourhood gold is to be found over a district mea-
suring about 25 by 12 miles. The gold mines of Craw-
ford Muir are said to have been discovered in the reign
of James IV., and in the time of James V. they were of
considerable value, and were carried on for the benefit
of the Crown. The celebrated ' bonnet pieces ' of James
V. were made from this gold ; and at the festival given
in honour of tlie King's marriage with Magdalen of
France, it is said that cups filled with it were set on the
table. In 1542, 35 ounces of it were used in the manu-
facture of a crown for the Queen, and 46 ounces in the
manufacture of that for the King ; while, according to a
JIS. in the Cottonian Collection, the annual value of the
workings at the same time amounted to a sum equivalent
to £100,000 sterling. After that it fell off very rapidly,
and now the quantity found is so small that it hardly
repays the time spent by some of the miners of the
neighbourhood in searching for it during leisure hours.

LANARKSHIRE

CommunicafAons, etc. — The Eoman roads by which
the district was traversed during the time that the Wall
of Antoninus was held are noticed subsequently. Some
parts of the modern lines of road coincide with the old
ones. The main routes are now (1) roads passing from
Glasgow to Edinburgh by Bathgate and by Shotts and
Midcalder, and a road from Lanark to Edinburgh, join-
ing the second of the two just mentioned at Midcalder ;
(2) roads passing from Glasgow up both sides of the
valley of the Clyde to a point 2 miles N of Abington,
where they unite. At Abington one branch passes by
Glengonner Water to Leadhills and into Nithsdale ;
while another keeps to the Clyde to Wellshot Hill, 2^
miles S of Crawford, where it divides, and one branch
passes by Powtrail Water to Nithsdale and the other by
Clydes Burn to Annandale. Main roads also run up
the valley of the Avon into Ayrshire by Darvel, and up
the valleys of the Avon, Nethan, and Douglas into
Ayrshire by Muirkirk. In the upper part of the county
the main cross roads pass from Lanark eastward by
Biggar, from Douglas to Wiston, and from Douglas to
Abington ; while in the lower district they form such
an extensive network as to be beyond particular men-
tion. For the purposes of the Road Act of 1878, the
upper and lower wards and the two divisions of the
middle ward are treated as if each was a separate countj\
Railway communication was first opened up for a con-
siderable part of the county by the opening of the
Caledonian railway in 1847 ; and now the lower part of
the county, with its extensive mineral traffic, is accom-
modated by lines far too numerous to be particularly
mentioned. Main lines pass from Glasgow by Coat-
bridge and Bathgate to Edinburgh (North British), and
by Shotts and Midcalder to Edinburgh (Caledonian) ;
southward up the valley of the Clyde on the NE and E
side to Clydes Burn, and up this into Annandale, and
from NE to SW by a line from Edinburgh by Carstairs
and Muirkirk to Ayr — both of the latter routes being
on the Caledonian system. The Forth and Clyde Canal
passes through the NW corner of the county ; and the
Monkland Canal, branching off at Maryhill N of Glas-
gow, winds eastward by Coatbridge to Calderbank.

The royal burghs in Lanarkshire are Glasgow, Lanark,
and Rutherglen ; the parliamentary burghs are Hamil-
ton and Airdrie ; the bui'ghs of barony are Biggar,
Strathavon, and East Kilbride ; and the police burghs
are Biggar, Crosshill, Govan, Govanhill, Hillhead,
Kinning Park, Maryhill, Motherwell, Partick, East
Pollokshields, West Pollokshields, and Wishaw. Places
of over 2000 inhabitants are : — Airdrie, Baillieston,
Bellshill, Busby (part of), Calder (including the iron-
woAs and Carnbrae), Cambuslang'(including Kirkhill,
Coats, Silverbanks, and Wellshothill), Carluke, Coat-
bridge (including Gartsherrie, Langloan, High Coats,
and Burnbank), Glasgow, Govanhill, Govan, Hillhead,
Partick, Hamilton, Holytown (including New Steven-
ston), Kirkintilloch (part of), Lanark, Larkhall, Lenzie
(part of), Mossend, Motherwell, Newmains (including
Coltness Ironworks), Rutherglen, Shettleston (including
Eastmuirand Sandyhill), Stonefield, Stonehouse, Strath-
avon, ToUcross (including Fullarton), Uddingston,
Whifflet and Rosehall (including Low Coats and Coat-
bank), and Wishaw (including Craigneuk) : places with
pojuiiations between 100 and 2000 are Allanton, Auchen-
heath. New Auchinairn, Auchentibber, Avonhead,
Bargeddie and Dykehead (including Cuilhill), Barnhill,
Biggar, Bishopbriggs, Blantyre (including Auchen-
wraith and Causewaystones), Blantyre Works, Both-
well, Bothwell Park, Braehead, Kirkwood Colliery,
Braidwood (including Harestanes and Thornicc), Broom-
house, Cadzow, Calderbank, Caldercruix, Carfin, Car-
munnock, Carmyle, Carnwath, Carstairs, Carstairs
Junction, Castlehill, Chapel and Stirling Bridge,
Chapelhall, Chapelton, Chryston and Muirhead, Cleland
(including Omoa), Clyde Iionworks, Clydesdale (in-
cluding Fulwood and Milnwood), Coatdyke (including
Cliftonhall), Crossford, Darngaber (Quarter Ironworks),
Douglas, Dunlop Place, Dykehead, Eastfield, East
Kilbride, East Langrigg, Faskino and Palace Craig

LANARKSHIRE

(including Hillhead), Ferniegair, Flemington, Forth,
Garnkirk (including Heathfield), Garnqueen, Gartcosh,
Greengairs, Hallside, Harthill, Haywood, Hazlebank,
Kirkfieldbank, Kirkmuirhill, Larktield, Law, Leadhills,
Lesniahagow, Lightburn, Longriggend, ]\Iillerston and
Hogganfield, Morningside and Torbush, Mount Vernon,
Muirhead or West Benhar, Nackerton (including
Aitkenhead), Netherburn, Newarthill, New Lanark,
New Monkland (including Glenmavis), Newton, Over-
town, Plains, Riggend, Roughrigg (including Westfield),
Salsburgh, Shotts Ironworks, Southfield, Stane (in-
cluding Burnbrae), Swinton, Tannochside, Thornwood,
Waterloo, Wattston, Westburn, West Langrigg, West
Maryston, West Quarter, Wilsontown (including Root-
park), and Yieldshields, besides a few smaller villages.

The county has forty-three entire quoad civilia parishes
and portions of other four. These with reference to the
wards are : — Upper Ward — Biggar, Carluke, Carmichael,
Carnwath, Carstairs, Covington and Thankerton, Craw-
ford, Crawfordjohn, Dolphinton, Douglas, Dunsyre,
Lamington and Wandell, Lanark, Lesmahagow, Libber-
ton, Pettinain, Symington, Walston, and Wiston and
Roberton, with portions of Culter, Kirkpatrick-Juxta,
and Moffat : Middle Ward — Avondale, Blantyre, Both-
well, Cambuslang, Cambusnethan, Dalserf, Dalzell,
East Kilbride, Glassford, Hamilton, Old Monkland,
New Monkland, Shotts, Stonehouse : Lower Ward —
Cadder, Carmunnock, Glasgow — Barony, City, Gorbals,
and Govan — Maryhill, Rutherglen, Shettleston and
Springburn, and part of Cathcart. The quoad sacra
parishes of Airdrie, Baillieston, Bargeddie, Bellshill,
Burnbank, Cadzow, Calderhead, Chapelton, Chryston,
Clarkston, Cleland, Coats, Coltness, Dalziel South,
Forth, Flowerhill, Gartsherrie, Garturk, those con-
nected with Glasgow, Harthill, Holytown, Larkhall,
Lanark, St Leonards, Leadhills, Lenzie (part). Over-
town, Uddingston, and Rutherglen West Church, are
also included. Nine of the parishes are in the presby-
tery of Biggar in the synod of Lothian and Tweeddale,
and the others are in the presbyteries of Glasgow,
Hamilton, and Lanark in the synod of Glasgow and
Ayr. Exclusive of those in Glasgow and its neigh-
bourhood, including Govan, there are 48 places of
worship connected with the Free Church, 42 in con-
nection with the United Presbyterian Church, 1 in
connection with the United Original Seceders, 3 in
connection with the Congregational Church, 14 in con-
nection with the Evangelical Union, 2 in connection
with the Baptist Church, 2 in connection with the
Wesleyan Methodist Church, 7 in connection with the
Episcopal Church, and 25 in connection with the Roman
Catholic Church. In the year ending Sept. 1882 there
were in the county 373 schools of which 224 were pirblic,
with accommodation for 122,615 children. These had
119,627 on the rolls, and an average attendance of 87,912.
The staff consisted of 946 certificated, 140 assistant, and
1046 pupil teachers. The parliamentary constituency of
the northern division of the shire for 1882-83 was 10,949 ;
of the southern 3662. The county is governed by a
lord-lieutenant, a vice-lieutenant, 49 deputy -lieutenants,
and 439 justices of the peace, of whom 48 are for the
upper ward, 126 for the middle ward, and 265 for the
lower Avard. There is a sheriff-principal with five sub-
stitutes for general county purposes, besides resident
sulistitutes for Lanark and Hamilton, and for Airdrie.
Ordinary courts are held at Glasgow on Tuesdays, Wed-
nesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays during session, small
debt courts on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays all
the year round, a debts recovery court every Monday,
and criminal courts as required. Appeals to the sheriff-
principal in lower ward cases are heard every Monday,
Tuesday, and Friday, and in cases from other parts of
the county every Wednesday. At Lanark the sheriff-
substitute sits on Mondays and Thursdays, and at
Hamilton on Tuesdays and Fridays. At Airdrie the
sheriff-substitute sits on Tuesdays and Fridays, and a
small debt circuit court is held at Wishaw cverj' third
Thursday. The police force, exclusive of the burghs
of Airdrie, Glasgow, Govan, Hamilton, Maryhill, and

463

LANARKSHIRE

Partick, which have separate forces, consists of 233 men
(1 to each 1229 of the population), under a chief con-
stable with a salary of £500 a j'ear. In 1881 the
number of persons tried at tlie instance of the police
was 3741 ; convicted, 3il2 ; committed for trial, 143 ;
not dealt with, 1725. The county prison, of which
only part is as yet built, is at Barlinnie to the E of
Glasgow, and the County Lunacy Board have recently
acquired the lands of Hartwood and P>owhousebog in
the parish of Siiotts, for the purpose of erecting a new
asylum to accommodate about 1000 patients. In 1881
the average number of registered poor was 13,242 with
9315 dependants, and 1185 casual poor with 822 depen-
dants ; while the receipts for parochial board purposes
amounted to £248,458, or over a quarter of the whole
sum for Scotland. All the parishes are assessed except
Carstairs and Dolphinton ; and there are poorhouses for
Barony, Cambusnethan Combination (including the
parishes of Bothwell, Cambusnethan, Dalziel, and
Shotts), Glasgow City Parish, Govan Combination,
Hamilton Combination (including the parishes of Avon,
Blantyre, Cambuslang, Dalserf, Glassford, Hamilton,
East Kilbride, and Stonehouse), Lanark, New Monk-
land, and Old Moukland. The proportion of illegiti-
mate births averages about 7 per cent., the average
death-rate about 22 per 1000. Connected with the
county are the third and fourth battalions of the Came-
roniaus (formerly the Second Royal Lanark Militia),
and the third battalion of the Highland Light Infantry
(formerly the First Eoyal Lanark Militia), all with
headquarters at Hamilton ; a battalion of Artillery
Volunteers with headquarters at Glasgow ; a battalion
of Engineer Volunteers with headquarters at Glasgow ;
and ten battalions of Rifle Volunteers, of which the
second have their headquarters at Hamilton, the seventh
at Airdrie, the ninth at Lanark, and all the others at
Glasgow. Besides the two county members and the
three returned by Glasgow, Rutherglen, Hamilton,
Airdrie, and Lanark unite with other burghs outside
the county in returning other two members. Valua-
tion, exclusive of burghs, but inclusive of railways
and canals, (1674) £13,436, (1815) £686,531, (1875)
£1,714,183, (1883) £2,144,453, of which £335,683 was
for the upper ward, £964,184 for the middle ward, and
£844,586 for the lower ward. Pop. of registration
county, which takes in parts of Culter from Peebles, and
Gorbals and Govan from Renfrew, and gives off parts
of Cathcart to Renfrewshire, and Kirkpatrick-Juxta and
Moffat to Dumfriesshire, (1831)317,329, (1841) 427,738,
(1851) 533,169, (1861) 640,444, (1871) 787,005, (1881)
942,206 ; civil county (1801) 147,692, (1811) 191,291,
(1821) 244,387, (1831) 316,819, (1841) 426,972, (1851)
530,169, (1861) 631,566, (1871) 765,339, (1881) 904,412,
of whom 449,297 were males and 455,115 females.
These were distributed into 193,731 families occupying
180,259 houses with 442,499 rooms, an average of 2-04
jjersons to each room, which is only surpassed among
Scottish counties by Shetland, where the average is 2 '42.
—Orel. Sur., shs. 30, 31, 22, 23, 24, 15, 16, 1864-67.

Lanarkshire anciently belonged to the Caledonian
tribe called the Damnii, and was over-run by the
Romans when they extended their territories to the
Wall of Antoninus, between the Firths of Clyde and
Forth. This wall passed through the north-western
corner of the county N of Bishopbriggs and Cadder,
and communication was kept up with the South by
roads which passed from Annandale and Nithsdale
through the S part of the county, and uniting to the N
of Crawford village and the E of Crawford Castle, wound
from that down the valley of the Clyde. Near Little
Clydes Burn there is a camp on the line of it, and in
jjlaces the present road coincides with it, e.g. on both
sides of Elvanfoot and Watling Street in Crawford
village. The Roman occupation of the district must
have been principally military, for traces of roads and
camps are found, but not of towns or villages. Coins,
weapons, and other relics of the Romans have also been
found in many places. After the departure of the
Romans, the district was held by the old tribe, who
464

LANARKSHIRE

now become known as the Strathclyde Britons, with
their capital at Alcluith, Alclwyd, or Dunbreatan, the
modern Dumbarton. This nation in 654 aided Penda,
King of Mercia, against Osuiu or Oswy, King of Anglia,
and on the victory of the latter fell under his sway,
and were subject to Anglia for thirty years till 684. On
the defeat of Ecgfrid by the Picts, the Dalriadic Scots
and the portion of the Britons who dwelt between the
Solway and the Clyde regained their freedom. In 756
Edgbert, King of Northumbria, and Angus, King of the
Picts, united against the district and took possession of
it, though how long they kept it does not appear ; but
part of Edgbert's army was lost from some unascertained
cause, but seemingly not in battle, while they were
between Strathavon and Newburgh on their way home.
Independence must have been, at the very latest, re-
gained by a little after the middle of the 9th century ;
for in 870 the Ulster Annals mention that Alclwyd was
besieged and captured by Northmen, and the same
authority mentions the death of Artglia, King of the
Strathclyde Britons, in 872. In 875 the lower part of
the county was laid waste by the Danes. Within the
next forty years the kingdom prospered, and by the
beginning of the 10th century it extended from the
Clyde southward to the Derwent in Cumberland. The
then king, Donald, dying, however, without heirs, the
King of Alban, who had been Donald's ally and friend,
was chosen ruler, and the kingdoms united. In 945
Eadmund, King of the Saxons, conquered it and handed
it over to Malcolm, a gift which was confirmed by
Siward to the succeeding Malcolm in 1054. In after-
j'ears it was associated with the career of Wallace, whose
first exploit was that of driving the English out of the
town of Lanark. After the triumph of Bruce, the
county enjoyed peace till the time of James II., when
the ambition of the Douglas family and the intrigues of
the first Lord Hamilton plunged the district into all
the horrors of civil war, as is recorded in Grey's MS.
Chronicle: — 'In March 1455 James the Second cast
doune the castel of Inveravyne ; and syne incontinent
past to Glasgu, and gaderit the westland men with part
of the Areschery [Irishry] and passed to Lanerik, and to
Douglas, and syne brynt all Douglasdale, and all Aven-
dale, and all the Lord Hamiltoiine's lands, and heriit
them clerlye ; and syne passit to Edinburgh. ' From
this time there was again quiet till the escape of Queen
Mary from Lochleven Castle and the battle of Langside
(see Glasgow) ; and from this again till the time of the
Presbyterian persecution in the reign of Charles II., in
the troubles of which time, the oppression of the ' High-
land Host,' the Pentland Rising, the battles of Drumclog
and Bothwell Bridge, Lanarkshire had its full share,
while the great tracts of moor in the upper districts
afforded many places of shelter, both to those who were
in danger of their lives and to those who wished to hold
meetings for worship. The Revolution of 1688 brought
more peaceful times, and Glasgow was the first place in
Scotland where the Declaration of the Prince of Orange
was published. The people were bitterly opposed to the
Union in 1707, when there was scarcely a town or
village in the county which did not make a demonstra-
tion against this then obno.xious measure. Subsequent
events of importance are connected with the towns, to
which reference may be made.

The sheriffdom of Lanark is said to date from the
time of the lawgiving David I. After passing through
various hands, the office came into the possession of the
Douglases, and after their downfall was given in fee to
the Hamiltons, who held it as a hereditary appendage
to their titles, but at the request of Charles II. the hold-
ing was surrendered, and was regrantcd to them as
deputies for the king. In 1716, the heir of the Hamil-
ton estates being under age, the Earl of Selkirk was
made sheriff, and held office till his death in 1739, when
James, sixth Duke of Hamilton, took possession of it
without any formal appointment, and held it till 1747,
when the hereditary jurisdictions were abolished. The
duke claimed £10,000 as compensation, but tlie claim
was disallowed. The chief antiquities of the county are

LANGBANE

the traces of the Roman occupation already noticed,
several British camps or strongholds, and uianj' cairns
in the upper ward ; and the ruins of Douglas Castle,
Craiguethan Castle — the Tillietudlem of 8ir Walter
Scott — Bothwell, Avondale, Dalziel, Carstairs, Boghall,
and Lamiugtou ; interesting churches at Biggar, Carn-
■«-ath, and Hamilton ; and remains of a priory at
Blantyre. New Orbiston, near Bellshill, was in 1827
granted by Hamilton of Dalzell to Robert Owen as the
site of a socialistic village, which, however, very soon
fell into decay.

See also Leslie's Scotice Descriptio (1578) ; four large
volumes of Topographical Collections referring to
Lanarkshire, formed by the late James Maidment, Esq.,
advocate, and now in the Mitchell Library, Glasgow ;
Naismith's Agricultural Survey of Clydesdale (1794) ;
Hamilton of Wishaw's Description of the Sheriffdom of
Lanark and Renfrew (Maitland Club, 1831) ; Irving and
Murray's The Upper Ward of Lanarkshire Described and
Delineated (Glasgow, 1864) ; Thomson's Martyr Graves
of Scotland (Edinb. 1875 ; and 2d series, 1877) ; P.
Dudgeon's Historical Notes on the Occurrence of Gold in
the South of Scotland (Edinb. 1876) ; E. W. Cochran-
Patrick's Early Records relating to Mining in Scotland
(Edinb. 1878); a paper on the 'Gold-Field and Gold-
Diggings of Crawford -Lindsay,' by Dr W. Lauder
Lindsay, in vol. iv. of the Scottish Naturalist (1878) ;
essays by the Earl of Dunmore and Thomas Dykes,
Esq., in vols. i. and ii. of The Clydesdale Stud Book
(Glasgow, 1878 and 1880) ; and works referred to under
Biggar, Clyde, CoATBPaDGE, Cowthally, CtLasgow,
GovAX, Leadhills, Lesmahagow, Paetick, and

RUTHERGLEX.

Langbajik, a village and a quoad sacra parish in
Erskine parish, Renfrewshire. The village, on the
southern shore of the Clyde, opposite Dumbarton, has
a post and telegraph office under Port Glasgow, Estab-
lished and U. P. churches, and a station on the Greenock
section of the Caledonian, 4J miles ESE of Port Glas-
gow. Constituted in 1875, the parish is in the pres-
bxrtery of Greenock and synod of Glasgow and Ayr.
Pop. (1881) of village, 322; of q. s. parish, 575. — Ord.
Sur., sh. 30, 1866.

Langbar, a village in Beith and Dairy parishes, Ayr-
shire, close to Kilbirnie station, this being 2f miles
NNE of Dairy Junction. Pop. (1861) 632, \l^ll) 921,
(1881) 750, of whom 233 were in Beith.

Langholm, a town and parish of E Dumfriesshire.
The town stands, 280 feet above sea-level, on the
river Esk, at the influx of Ewes Water from the N
and of Wauchope Water from the SW. Bv road it is
73 miles S by E of Edinburgh, 23 SSW of Hawick, 12
N by W of Longtown, 21| N by W of Carlisle, and IS
NE of Annan ; and, as terminus of a branch of the
North British, it is 7| miles NNW of Riddings Junction,
this being 14 mUes N by W of Carlisle, 31| S by W of
Hawick, and 84 S by E of Edinburgh. Embosomed in
one of the prettiest landscapes in Scotland — neither wide,
romantic, nor grand, but strictly and eminently lovely —
it comprises an old town on the E bank of the Esk,
immediately below the influx of the Ewes, and a new
town on the W bank of the Esk, immediately above the
influx of Wauchope Water. The old town includes one
principal street with a central market-place, and con-
sists of houses mostly built of white freestone from
Whita or Langholm Hill, and many of them in a style
superior to what are seen in most small towns. The
new town was fouuded in 1778, and originally consisted
of nearly 150 houses, built in regular street arrange-
ment, in the form of a triangle. The town hall,
in the market-place, is a neat structure with a spire.
Near it stands a handsome marble statue of Admiral
Sir Pulteney Malcolm (1768-1838); and an obelisk,
100 feet high, was erected at a cost of £1300 to the
memory of his brother, General Sir John Malcolm
(1769-1833), on Whita Hill, immediately above the
town. An old two-arched stone bridge spans the Ewes,
a little above its influx to the Esk, which itself is crossed
by a three-arched stone bridge (1780), and by an iron

LANGHOLM

suspension foot-bridge. The parish church, built in
1846, is a fine Gothic edifice, containing upwards of
1200 sittings; and a handsome mission church, built
in ISSl at a cost of over £2000, contains 470. The
Free church was built soon after the Disruption ; and
of two U. P. churches, the one was rebuilt in 1867, the
other in 1883. The Evangelical Union chapel, biiilt in
1870 at a cost of £1000, is Gothic in style, and contains
300 sittings. The town has a post office, with money
order, savings' bank, and telegraph departments, branchea
of the National and British Linen Co. 's Banks, a local
savings' bank, 19 insurance agencies, 6 hotels, gasworks,
a subscription library, a temperance hall, a new police
station, a Freemasons' lodge, mechanics' and Oddfellows'
benefit societies, football, curling, and cricket clubs (the
last with a fine cricket ground, provided bj' the Duke of
Buccleucli, in front of Langholm Lodge), and 2 Wednes-
day weekly newspapers, the Eskdalc Advertiser (\Si%) and
the Border Standard (1880). A weekly market is held on
AVednesday ; and fairs are held on 16 April, the Wednes-
day before 26 May, the last Tuesday of May o. s. , 26 July,
IS Sept., 5 Nov., and the Wednesday before 22 Nov.
A cotton factory was built in 1788 ; and an extensive
cotton trade, in connection with firms in Glasgow and
Carlisle, was carried on till 1832, when the manufacture
of shepherd's plaids and shepherd check trouserings was
introduced, and led to the production of very beautiful
and highly finished fabrics. The manufacture of tweeds
followed, and rose rapidlj' into such prosperity, that
now seven mills employ a capital of £130,000, and turn
out goods to the value of more than £200,000 a j-ear.
The to^\•u has also a distillery and two tan-works.
Erected into a burgh of baronj' by charter from the
Crown in 1643, Langholm was long governed by a
baron bailie, under the Duke of Buccleuch as superior ;
but now its affairs are managed by commissioners of
police, comprising a chief magistrate and 15 other
members. Sherifl' small debt courts are held on the
thii'd Saturday of January, May, and September. The
town figures curiously in history for the taming of shrews,
and for the pretended pranks of witches. Langholm is
the headquarters of the Fishery Association ; and excel-
lent fishing is to be had, the Esk abounding in salmon,
sea-trout, and whiting or herling. Pop. (1831) 2264,
(1S61) 2558, (1871) 3275, (1881) 4209, of whom 2179
were in Old Langholm, and 2276 were females. Houses
(1881) 848 inhabited, 41 vacant, 15 building.

The parish of Langholm comprehends the ancient
parishes of Staplegorton and Wauchope, and about half
of the ancient parish of Morton ; and was constituted in
1703. It is bounded N by Westerkirk, NE by Ewes, SE
and S byCanonbie, SW by Half-Morton, and WbyMiddle-
bie and Tundergarth. Its utmost length, from E to W,
is 7 miles ; its breadth, from N to S, varies between 2§
and 6| miles ; and its area is 17,152 acres, of which 181
are water. The river Esk first runs 9 furlongs south-
by-eastward along the boundary with Westerkirk, and
then winds 6| mUes south-south-eastward through the
interior, till it passes off near Irviue House to Canonbie.
To the Esk flow Ewes Water, J mile along the
boundary with Ewes parish, and then 1| mile south-
south-westward ; Wauchope Water, formed by the con-
fluence of Logan Water and Bigholm Burn, 3§ miles
north-westward ; Tarras Water, 2| miles south-south-
westward along the south-eastern boundary ; and Irvine
Burn, If mile southward through the interior, then If
east-by-northward along the southern boundary. Three
medicinal springs, one of them sulphurous, the other
two chalybeate, are in the western district. In the
extreme S, at the Tarras' and Irvine's influx to the Esk,
the surface declines to 195 feet above sea-level ; and
thence it rises to Whita Hill (1162 feet), Earshaw Hill
(921), Eloch Hill (878) Mid Hill (1070), Calfield Rig
(1025), Tansy Hill (1065), and Haggy Hill (1412) at the
meeting-point of Langholm, Middlebie, Tundergarth,
and Westerkirk parishes. The tracts adjacent to the
Esk and Ewes are flat, well cultivated, and highly em-
bellished ; elsewhere are smooth hills, green to the very
summit, and grazed by large flocks of sheep. The

465

LANGHOPE-BIRKS

scenery in man}' parts, especially along the Esk, is very
beautiful. The rocks of the northern district are
eruptive and Silurian, of the southern are carboniferous.
Grepvacke slate has been quarried ; lead ore occurs on
"West Water farm and Broomholm estate ; sandstone,
greyish white and yellowish grey, abounds between
Langholm Bridge and Byreburn ; and fossiliferous
bluish-grey limestone lies incumbent on the Silurian
rocks. The soil of the flat grounds is mostly a lightish
loam ; of the hills is exceedingly various. Nearly one-
seventh of the entire area is in tillage ; plantations
cover some 500 acres ; and all the rest of the parish is
pasture. Langholm Castle, a plain square tower or
peel-house, now a ruin, belonged to the Armstrongs,
the powerful Border freebooters, and sent forth Johnnie
Armstrong of Gilnockie, with his gallant company of
thirty-six men, to disport themselves upon Langholm
Holm, prior to their execution by James V. at Caer-
la>;eig (1529). Wauchope Castle is represented only
by grass-covered foundations ; and Barntalloch, Irvine,
Nease, Calfield, and Hill Towers are quite extinct.
The Roman road between Netherbie and Overbie
traversed the parish north-westward, and is still partly
traceable ; and Roman coins have been found of Nero,
Vespasian, Otho, and Domitian. Natives were "William
Julius Mickle (1734-88), the translator of Camoens, and
David Irvine, LL.D. (1778-1864), author of the History
of Scottish Poetry. Langholm Lodge, near the Esk's
left bank, 1 mile NNW of the town, is a villa of the
Duke of Buccleuch. Broomholm has been noticed
separately ; and 3 proprietors hold each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 8 of between £100 and
£500, 24 of from £50 to £100, and 21 of from £20 to
£50. Langholm is the seat of a presbytery in the synod
of Dumfries ; the living with glebe is worth £442. Two
public schools, Langholm and "Wauchope, with respective
accommodation for 997 and 45 children, had (1881) an
average attendance of 625 and 21, and grants of £673,
16s. 6d. and £32. "V^aluation (1860) £9008, (1883)
£18,294, 19s. 2d. Pop. (1801) 2536, (1831) 2676, (1861)
2979, (1871) 3735, (1881) 4612.— Ord. Sur., shs. 11, 10,
1863-64.

The presbytery of Langholm, formed in 1743 at the
abolition of the presbytery of Middlebie, comprehends
Eskdale and Liddesdale, and contains the parishes of
Canonbie, Castleton, Eskdalemuir, Ewes, Half-Morton,
Langholm, and "Westerkirk. Pop. (1871) 11,032, (1881)
11,446, of whom 2226 were communicants of the Church
of Scotland in 1878.

Langhope-Birks. See Campmtjir, Berwickshire.

Langhouse, an estate, with a mansion, in Innerkip
parish, Renfrewshire, 2 J miles NNE of "Werayss Bay.

Langlee, an estate, with a mansion, in Jedburgh
parish, Roxburghshire, 2\ miles S by "W of the town.

Langley Park, a mansion in Dun parish, Forfarshire,
1 mile WSW of Dubton Junction. Its owner, Augustus
"Walter Cruikshank (b. 1837 ; sue. 1856), holds 861
acres in the shire, valued at £2232 per annum. — Ord.
Sur., sh. 57, 1868.

Langloan. See Coatbridge.

Langshaw, an estate, with a mansion, in Kirkpatrick-
Fleming parish, Dumfriesshire, 1^ mile ESE of Kirtle-
bridge Junction.

Langside. See Glasgow.

Langside, a village in Bothwell parish, Lanarkshire,
near Bellshill.

Langton, a central parish of Berwickshire, containing
the post-office village of Gavikton*, 2 miles SW of the
post-town. Duns. It is bounded "W and N"W by
Longformacus, NE by Duns, E and SE by Edrom, and
S by Polwarth. Its utmost length, from 'NW to SE, is
6J miles ; it breadth varies between 5J furlongs and 3^
miles ; and its area is 7151 acres, of which 12 are water.
The drainage is mostly carried eastward to the Black-
adder by Langton Burn and other rivulets. In the
extreme E the surface declines to 290 feet above sea-
level, thence rising to 805 feet near Campmuir, 905 at
Blacksmill Hill, 1056 at Hardens Hill, and 1159 near
Duntalee Plantation — heights of the Lammermuirs that
466

LANY

command a view of all the Merse and over parts of
Northumberland to "Wooller. The prevailing rocks of
the Lammermuir or north-western district are Silurian,
of the Merse or south-eastern district Devonian ; and
the soil of the former is moorish, of the latter a reddish
loam. About five-ninths of the entire area are sheep-
walks ; woods and plantations cover some 300 acres ;
and the rest of the parish is chiefly arable. Traces of
two old military stations are on a hill near Raecleugh-
head, and traces of another are at Campmuir. Stone
coffins have been exhumed on Crease and Middlefield
farms ; and a gold bracelet, 9 inches in circumference,
was found in 1813 in a burn at Battlemuir. Langton
estate, including not only the greater part of Langton
parish, but also parts of Duns and Longformacus,
belonged to the Veterepontes or "V'iponts from the latter
half of the 12th century till the beginning of the 14th
century. From them it passed by marriage to the
Cockburns, ancestors of the late Chief-Justice ; and by
them it was sold in 1758 to David Gavin, Esq., the
maternal grandfather of John, second Marquis of Bread-
albane (1796-1862). From the Marquis Langton passed
to his sister. Lady Elizabeth Pringle, who held 8121
acres in the shire, valued at £8501 per annum ; and at
her death, in 1878, to her daughter, Mary-Gavin, who
in 1861 married the Hon. Robert Baillie-Hamilton (b.
1828), second son of the tenth Earl of Haddington, and
Conservative member for Berwickshire from 1874 till
1880. The present mansion, near the left bank of
Langton Burn, 2^ miles S"W of Duns, was commenced
in 1862 by the Marquis of Breadalbane, after designs
by David Bryce, R.S.A. It is a stately Elizabethan
structure, with a splendid picture gallery, beautiful
grounds, and a noble entrance gateway of 1877. There
are 3 lesser proprietors, 1 holding an annual value of
more, and 2 of less, than £100. Langton is in the
presbytery of Duns and sjmod of Jlerse and Teviotdale ;
the living is worth £300. The parish church, rebuilt
in 1872, is a beautiful Gothic edifice, with 200 sittings,
and a spire 100 feet high. There is also a Free church,
with 300 sittings ; and a public school, with accommoda-
tion for 120 children, had (1881) an average attendance of
62, and a grant of £61, 4s. Valuation (1865) £7344,
lis., (1882) £7822, 7s. Pop. (1801) 428, (1831) 443,
(1861) 502, (1871) 548, (1881) 505.— Ord. Sur., shs. 26,
25, 33, 1863-65.

Langwell, the Scottish seat of the Duke of Portland,
in Latheron parish, S Caithness, on a green eminence
between confluent Langwell and Berriedale "Waters,
f mile "W of Berriedale. The estate was purchased by
Sir John Sinclair in 1788 for £7000, by James Home,
Esq., in 1813 for £40,000, and by the fifth Duke in 1860
for £90,000, this enormous rise in value being due to
the improvements carried out both by Sir John Sinclair
and Mr Home. By the Duke nearly all the property
was converted into deer-forest. His cousin, John
"William Arthur Charles James Cavendish Bentinck,
sixth Duke since 1716 (b. 1857 ; sue. 1879), holds
81,605 acres in the shire, valued at £7902 per annum.
See Latherox. — Ord. Sur., sh. 110, 1877.

Lanrick Castle, a mansion in Kilmadock parish,
Perthshire, on the right bank of the Teith, 3 miles
"WNAV of Doune. A handsome modern castellated
edifice, with very fine grounds, it is a seat of Robert
Jardine, Esq., M.P., of Castlemilk, as successor to his
kinsman, Andrew Jardine, Esq. (1810-81), who owned
2821 acres in Perthshire and 9838 in Dumfriesshire,
valued at £2661 and £5569 per annum. A suspension
bridge, which here spans the Teith, was erected in
1842 after plans by Mr Smith of Deanston.— Ord Sur.,
sh. 39, 1869.

Lanrig. See Loxgridge.

Lanton, a village in Jedburgh parish, Roxburghshire,
on the NW slope of Lanton Hill (923 feet), 3 miles
"WNW of Jedburgh town. It has an old peel tower
and a public school.

Lany, an ancient parish of S'W Perthshire, suppressed,
on account of the smallness of the stipend, in 1615,
when part of it was annexed to Port of Monteith. Its

LAOGHAL

ruined church, which belonged to the priory of Inch-
mahome, and stood within the section annexed to Port
of Monteith, is said in the New Statistical Account to
hear the date 1214 in Arabic numerals.

Laoghal. See Loyal.

Laoidean. See Lydoch.

Larbert, a village and a parish of E Stirlingshire.
The village stands J mile SW of Larbert station on the
Scottish Central section of the Caledonian railway, 5
furlongs N by AV of Larbert Junction, and 2 J miles ISI W
of Falkirk ; occupies a charming situation ; and has a
post and railway telegraph office. Pop. (1861) 441,
(1871) 559, (1881) 831.

The parish, containing also the village of Stenhotjse-
MUiR, half of Carronshore, and the gi-eater part of
Carron and Kinnaird, from 1624 to 1834 was united
with Dunipace. It is bounded N by St Ninians, NE
by Airth, E by Bothkennar, SE and S by Falkirk, and
W by Dunipace. Its utmost length, from E to W, is
3^ miles ; its utmost breadth, from N to S, is 3 miles ;
and its area is 4054 acres, of which 2 are foreshore
and 89^ water. The river Carron winds 5 miles east-
north-eastward along or close to all the Falkirk boun-
dary ; a rivulet, rising on the western border, runs east-
ward through the interior to the Carron at the SE
corner ; and Pow Burn flows f mile east-north-eastward
along the St Ninians boundary. The surface, with a
general westward ascent to 206 feet above sea-level just
beyond the Dunipace boundary, comprises portions of
the Carse of Forth ; and commands from multitudes of
standpoints brilliant views over all the carse and along
the northern screens of the Forth from the Ochil Hills
to the vicinity of Dunfermline. The rocks, belonging
to the Carboniferous formation, include sandstone,
several seams of coal, and some strata of clay ironstone ;
and the coal and the ironstone are largely worked. The
soil is alluvial, partly light and dry, but generally
argillaceous. With the exception of 260 acres of plan-
tations and pleasure-grounds, almost the entire area is
in tillage. The leading industries are noticed under
Carron, the cattle trysts under Falkirk and Sten-
HOUSEMiriR. The Roman road from Falkirk to Stirling
traversed the parish, and has left some vestiges. The
famous Pioman antiquity known as Arthur's Oven,
and separately noticed, was on the southern border ;
and Roman millstones and fragments of Roman pottery
have been found. The Scottish National Institution
for the Training of Imbecile Children was built in
1865-69 at a cost of £13,000 in mixed styles of archi-
tecture, with predominance of the Scottish Baronial
and the Italian. With a fagade 340 feet long, it includes
two wings extending 170 feet backward, and each of
them terminating in a tower and spire 70 feet high. It
acquired a hospital in 1872 at a cost of £1600 ; underwent
enlargement in 1875-76, in completion of the original
plan, at a further cost of £12,000 ; and has accommo-
dation for 240 patients or pupils, together with servants.
Near it is the Stirling District Lunatic Asylum, also
erected in 1866-69 at a cost of over £20,000, and also
in the mixed Scottish Baronial and Italian styles.
Measuring 438 feet along the front and 205 along the
flanks, it consists of a centre block with two long
verandahs on the ground floor, two wings for males and
females, and two towers 90 feet high at the back of these
wings. The grounds, 70 acres in extent, are enclosed
by a wall 10 feet in height. The average number of
imbecile children somewhat exceeds 100, of pauper
lunatics 300. Larbert House, 5 furlongs NW of the
village, was purchased from G. Stirling, Esq., in 1876
by John Hendrie, Esq. (b. 1829), who "holds 899 acres
in Stirling and 85 in Lanark shire, valued at £1611
and £1406 per annum. Other mansions are Carron-
hall, Carron Park, Glenbervie, Kinnaird, and Sten-
HOUSE ; and, in all, 8 proprietors hold each an annual
value of £500 and upwards, 6 of between £100 and
£500, 5 of from £50 to £100, and 25 of from £20 to
£50. In the presbytery of Stirling and synod of Perth
and Stirling, this parish forms a joint charge with
Dunipace ; the living is worth £409. The parish

LARGO

church, at the village, is a Perpendicular edifice of
1820, built from designs by Hamilton of Glasgow, and
containing 1200 sittings. The old graveyard contains
monuments to the two famous Bruces of Kinnaird, to
Mr W. Dawson, with a marble statue of the ' Angel of
the Resurrection,' etc. A plain Free church stands at
the E end of Stenhousemuir ; and the five schools of
Carronshore, Larbert, Larbert village, Stenhousemuir,
and Carron — all of them public but the last — with
respective accommodation for 252, 225, 223, 212, and
216 children, had (1881) an average attendance of 190,
242, 167, 136, and 185, and grants of £172, 15s.,
£258, Is., £145, 2s., £102, and £187, Ss. 6d. Yalua-
tion(1879) £18,840, lis. Id., (1883) £21,649, Is. Id.
Pop. (1801) 4217, (1831) 4248, (1861) 4999, (1871) 5280,
(1881) 6346.— 0/T^. Sur., sh. 31, 1867.

Larbert Junction, a junction of railways on the N
border of Falkirk parish, Stirlingshire, 5 furlongs S by
E of Larbert village, and 2 miles W by N of Falkirk
town. It conjoins the S end of the Scottish Central
section of the Caledonian railway with a north-eastward
line from both the main trunk of the Caledonian system
and the western part of the Edinburgh and Glasgow
section of the North British system, also with a west-
north-westward branch of the eastern part of the Edin-
burgh and Glasgow railway from Polmont through the
Grahamston suburb of Falkirk, and with an east-south-
eastward branch line from Denny.

Largie Castle, a mansion in Killean and Kilchenzie
parish, Kintyre, Argyllshire, 5 furlongs NE of Tayin-
loan. Its owner, John Ronald Moreton-SIacdonald (b.
1873 ; sue. 1879), holds 12,775 acres in the shire, valued
at £4025 per annum. — Orel. Sur., sh. 20, 1876.

Largo, a parish containing two villages of the same
name in the SE of Fife, on the northei'n coast of the
Firth of Forth. It is bounded NE by Kilconquhar, E
by Kilconquhar and Newburn, S by the sweep of the
Firth of Forth known as Largo Bay, W by Scoonie, and
NW by Cei'es. The outline is very irregular, and the
boundary is purely artificial, except at tlie SE corner,
where, for a little over a mile, it is formed by Johnston's
Mill Burn, and along the shore on the S. The greatest
length from NE, at the point on Craighall Burn where
the parishes of Ceres, Kilconquhar, and Largo meet, to
SW, where the boundary line reaches the shore due S
of Lundin Tower, is 5J miles ; and the greatest width,
from Kame Bridge on the NW to the mouth of John-
ston's Mill Burn on the SE, is 4§ miles. The area is
7585^ acres, of which 199f are foreshore and water,
and 73851 land ; and of the latter over 6000 acres are
in tillage, about 600 are under wood, and about 300
are pasture or Avaste. The coast, extending about 2|
miles, is fringed for most of that distance close inshore
by a reef of rocks, which are covered at high water, and,
though low and sandy, rises almost immediately, espe-
cially behind the village of Lower Largo, to a height of
100 feet, reaches 165 at Upper Largo village, and from
that rises gradually by a series of undulations till, on
the northern boundary of the parish, a height of over
600 feet is reached. On the eastern border, in the NE,
the ground at Backmuir of New Gilston rises to over
700 feet, and 1 mile N of Upper Largo village Largo
Law attains a height of 965 feet. Like all the hills
known as Laws it is conical in its shape, rising very
steeply on the S and W sides, and more gradually on the
N and E. It is green to the very summit, and has
two tops, separated by a slight hollow, on the side of
which, as well as on the higher top and elsewhere,
basalt may be seen. The hill has been a volcano at some
period subsequent to the Lower Carboniferous period,
the upper part consisting of volcanic ash overlying
lower carboniferous rocks faulted and upturned, and
with their edges worn down. The tops indicate the
bottom of the crater, the basalt there marking the
plug filling the pipe up Avhich the lava ascended. A
patch of basalt farther down on the S side is either the
remains of an outburst from the side of the cone or of a
sheet of lava that has flowed down the side. The soft
ashy edges of the craters and cone have been worn away,

467

LAEGO

and the hard lava at the bottom having ofTcred more
resistance to denudation, now occupies the summit.
The hill is a conspicuous object all along the lower
reaches of the basin of the Forth, and commands an
extensive and magnificent view. The drainage of the
parish is mainl)' carried otf by the Kiel Burn, which,
rising in the NE at Backmuir of New Gilston, flows
S by W for 4J miles, inclusive of windings, till it
reaches the sea at Lower Largo village. Three-quarters
of a mile from its mouth it is joined by Lundin Mill
Burn from the W, which carries oft" the drainage of the
western portion of the parish, and 2 miles further up
Gilston Burn enters from the E. Above the junction
with Gilston Burn the Kiel is generally known as Bog-
hall Burn. To the E of the Kiel are the two small
streams known as Temple Burn and Old Mill Burn,
and on the extreme E Johnston's Mill Burn becomes
the boundary at the point where it crosses the Colins-
burgh road, and remains the dividing line till the shore
is reached. In its lower reaches the Kiel flows for
about 2 miles through a deep glen, the banks being in
some places over 200 feet high. The banks are steep,
and throughout the greater part of the distance very
beautifully wooded, while walks open to the public lead
to all the points where the views are best. The soil
varies considerabl}% but is always good. In the SE it
is a rich strong clay, but elsewhere it is generally a rich
thick black loam, with lighter patches towards the S.
The subsoil is clay or gravel, and in the former case is
sometimes very wet. The underlying rocks are partly
volcanic and partly sandstone, limestone, and shale,
belonging to the Carboniferous system. There is plenty
of excellent sandstone, and the limestone is in some
places 15 feet thick. Coal is worked in considerable
quantities in the N.

The parish contains the villages of Lundin Mill and
Drumochie, Lower Largo and Temple, Upper Largo or
Kirkton of Largo and Backmuir of New Gilston. Of
these, Lundin Mill, Drumochie, Lower Largo, and
Temple may practically be considered as constituting
one long straggling village on both sides of the mouth
of Kiel Burn ; Upper Largo is f mile NE of this ; and
New Gilston is in the NE part of the parish. At
Lundin Mill there are a number of excellent villas,
inhabited by golfers, who find an excellent course over
the adjacent Lundin Links to the W ; Drumochie is
properly the houses immediately to the W of the mouth
of the Kiel, Lower Largo immediately E of the Kiel,
and Temple farther E still. Upper Largo is warm and
well sheltered, and both villages are the resort of a con-
siderable number of summer visitors, though the in-
shore rocks prevent the full enjoyment of good bathing-
ground. Exclusive of New Gilston, the other villages
may be considered as forming a small town, and have a
station on the Leven and East of Fife Junction railway
8^ miles E of Thornton Junction. In Upper Largo,
which is the centre of trade for a considerable district of
surrounding country, there are a head post office, with
nroney order, .savings' bank, and telegraph departments,
a branch of the National Bank of Scotland, a good inn,
a parish church, a Free church, a public school, an
endowed hospital for indigent persons, a naturalists'
field club with a small museum, and a gas company ;
while in Lower Largo there are aU.P. church, 2 Baptist
churches, a school, 2 inns, and a small harbour. At
Lundin Links there is a public school, an inn, and a
golf club instituted in 1868, meeting in October to i)lay
for the ' Standard ' medal, and twice a 3'ear to play for
the silver medal. Connected with the parish generally
are a ploughing society, a curling clul), a company of
the 1st Fifeshirc Kifle Volunteers, and a Good 'Templar
lodge ; and there is a corn market every Thursday, The
fast days are the Wednesday before the first Sunday of
March and the last Wednesday of July. The inhabi-
tants of the lower village are mostly fishermen, — hand-
loom weaving, which was at one time as in so many
other fishing villages a staple industry, now alfording
employment to only one weaver. The harbour at the
mouth of the Kiel is very small, and affords accommo-
468

LAEGO

dation to a few boats engaged in line fishing, those
engaged in the herring fishing now proceeding to some
of the great stations at Aberdeen, Fraserburgh, Peter-
head, Stonehaven, or elsewhere. It might with very
little trouble be much improved. In old times a con-
siderable trade was carried on with Holland in coal,
salt, iron, sandstone, and other heavy articles, and
more recently with Norway in timber ; but all that is
now like the weaving at an end, and the industries,
besides fishing and the ordinary village handicrafts, are
confined to a flour mill and a net manufactory, both in
the lower village. About 3 furlongs E of Temple are a
few houses known as The Pans, and marking the site of
an old salt work. The parish church, mainly built in
1817, was enlarged in 1826 so as to include an old aisle,
and a spire with the date 1623, and has 800 sittings.
It is surrounded by a churchyard, and there is a new
cemetery not far off to the N of the public school. The
Free church, erected soon after the Disruption, was
repaired in 1880. Wood's Hospital is a Tudor building,
standing within a considerable enclosed space a little to
the NE of the church. It sprang from a bequest made
in 1659 by John AVood, London, who left the sum of
£68,418 Scots to be applied by his trustees in the erec-
tion of an hospital for the maintenance of 13 indigent
and enfeebled persons, and to pay also for the services
of a gardener, a porter, and a chaplain for the institu-
tion. The whole 16 must be of the name of Wood, and
those belonging to the parish or to Fife have the pre-
ference. The first building was erected in 1667, and,
it having become decayed, the present building was
erected in 1830 at a cost of £2000. A sitting-room
and bed-room are provided for each inmate, and there
is a large hall where they assemble for prayers every
morning and evening, and also a room for the meetings
of the trustees. These latter are the Earl of Wemyss,
the lairds of Largo, Lundin, and Balfour, and the
minister and kirk-session of the parish of Largo. Each
inmate has a monthly allowance of £1, 12s. 6d. , besides
residence. Of the founder but little is known, but he
is supposed to have been a cadet of the Largo family.
He died in London, but was buried in the family aisle
in Largo Church. Other distinguished natives of the
parish have been Alexander Selkirk (1676-1723) and Sir
John Leslie. The former, the original of Robinson
Crusoe, was born in the lower village in a house that
remained standing till 1880. In 1704, while serving on
board a ship trading to the Pacific, he was punished for
mutinous conduct by being set ashore on the small
island of Juan Fernandez, where he lived all alone for
four years and four months before he was relieved. On
his return Defoe is said to have met him about Wapping,
and obtained the tale afterwards polished into Robinson
Crusoe. His chest and cup, Avhich were long preserved
in the neighbourhood, are now in the Antiquarian
Museum at Edinburgh, while his gun is at Lathallan
House. Selkirk afterwards entered the Royal Navy
and was, when he died in 1723, at the age of 47, lieu-
tenant on board of H.M.S. Weymouth. Leslie (1766-
1832), famous for researches on heat and cognate
branches of natural philosophy, Avas professor, first of
mathematics, and afterwards of natural philosophy, in
the University of Edinburgh.

Largo barony was in 1482 conferred by James III.,
by charter under the great seal, on Sir Andrew Wood,
who had in 1480 in the Yellow Kervcl attacked and
beaten a hostile English squadron that had been sailing
in the Firth of Forth. From Sir Andrew's descendants
it passed first to a family named Black, then to Gibsons,
and in 1663 to Sir Alexander Durham, to whose descen-
dants it belonged till 1868, when Mrs Dundas-Durham
sold it to G. Johnstone, Esq. of Latiirisk, to whom it
now belongs. Largo House, the mansion of the barony,
to the W of Upper Largo, was built in 1750, and is a
very roomy building, on a charming site with a southern
exposure, and commanding a fine and extensive view.
The grounds are large, and, like many other parts of
the parish, have a large number of fine old trees, some
of th-^m of considerable size. Within the grounds to

LARGO

the N is a circular to-wer, which formed part of the old
castle inhabited by Sir Andrew Wood, and said tradi-
tionally to have been previous to that the residence of
several of the widowed queens of Scotland. A runic
cross found in the neighbourhood used formerly to stand
on the lawn ; but when the estate was sold it was un-
fortunatel}' removed to Polton, near Lasswade. One of
the guns of the Royal George, which sunk in 1782,
which used to stand in the grounds, passed at the
same time to James Wolfe Murray, Esq. of Cringletie,
Peeblesshire.* The other mansions in the parish are
Balhousie (Thomas Buchan, Esq.) and Strathairly
(General David Briggs). The mansion-house of Lundin
was pulled down in 1876 ; but the old square tower
which was built into it, and which is the remnant of
an old castle of Lundin, and dates from the time of
David II., has been carefully preserved. Close to it
are a number of very iine old trees. The castle belonged
to a family of the name of Lundin, who at an early
date held a large extent of property in the district.
One of William the Lyon's sons is said to have married
the then heiress, and in their line it remained till 1670,
when another heiress took it into the Perth family by
marriage with Sir John Drummond, second son of the
second Earl of Perth, with whose descendants it re-
mained till about 1750, when it was sold in consequence
of attainder against the family for connection with the
rebellion of 1745. Besides the antiquities already men-
tioned, there is on the banks of Kiel Burn N of Largo
House a fragment of the old castle of Balcruvie or
Pitcruvie, which is separately noticed. To the SE of
Lundin House are three standing stones about 12 feet
high, known as 'the standing stones of Lundin.' Two
and a half miles N by W of Upper Largo, near Teasses,
is a tumulus called Norrie's Law, concerning which a
local tradition maintained that it covered the remains
of a great chief who had armour of silver. A hawker
stealthily opened it up about 1817, and foimd that
something of this sort was actually the case, for he dis-
covered a large number of ancient Celtic ornaments of
silver. What they exactly were cannot be ascertained,
as he carried them off and sold them to various dealers
in old silver, who consigned them to the melting pot.
By the exertions of General Durham of Largo and Mr
George Buist of Cupar a few were recovered, and those
that still remain are so extremely valuable as to cause
all the more regret for what is lost. In 1848 two beau-
tiful twisted gold armillte were found in a bank at
Lower Largo, immediately behind the well near the
ninth mile-post on the railway. A number of stone
coffins, formed of slabs, have been at various times
found in the sandhills .skirting the shore from Drumochie
eastwards, over the site of the lower village to Old Mill
Burn.

The parish is traversed for 2f miles along the coast
by the Thornton and Anstruther branch of the North
British railway system ; and there are stations at Lundin
Links and Lower Largo. The S end is also traversed by
the main road from Burntisland along the edge of the
Firth of Forth to the East Neuk of Fife, which passes
through Lundin Mill and Upper Largo. From Upper
Largo district roads pass also northwards to Ceres and
north-eastwards to St Andrews. Largo is in the pres-
bytery of St Andrews and synod of Fife, a part in the
NE being given off to the quoad sacra parish of Largo-
ward. The stipend is £396, with £10 for communion
elements, and a manse and glebe worth respectively
£30 and £32 a year. Kirkton public, Lundin Mill
public, and Durham female schools, with accommodation
respectively for 150, 178, and 143 pupils, had (1881) an
average attendance of 87, 104, and 69, and grants of
£83, Os. 6d., £84, 5s., and £59. Four proprietors hold
each an annual value of £500 and upwards, 7 hold
each between £500 and £100, 3 between £100 and £50,
and there are a number of smaller amount. Valuation
(1879) £15,784, 8s. 6d., (1883) £15,608, 5s. 5d. Pop.

* Admiral Sir Philip C. Durham of Largo was sijfnal officer of
the Royal George at the time of the accident, and was one of the
lew peisons rescued.

LARGS

of village of Upper Largo (1861) 365, (1871) 353,
(1881) 362; of Lower Largo and Temple (1S61) 428,
(1871) 521, (1881) 562 ; of Lundin Mill and Drumochie
(1861) 593, (1871) 537, (1881) 477. Pop. of whole
parish (1755) 1396, (1801) 1867, (1831) 2567, (1861)
2626, (1871) 2315, (1881) 2224, of whom 1049 were
males and 1175 were females, while 211 were in the
quoad sacra parish of Largo ward. — Ord. Sur., shs. 40,
41, 1867-57.

See also The Chronicle of Fife ; being the Diary of
John Lamont of Neiuton, from 1649 to 1672 (Edinb.
1810) ; The Diary of Mr John Lamont of Neivton,
1649-71 (Maitland Club, Edinb., 1830) ; for the geology
of the Law, a paper by Dr Archibald Geikie on the
' Carboniferous Volcanic Rocks of the Basin of the
Forth' in the Transactiojis of the Royal Society of Edin-
burgh, vol. xxix. ; and for the Norrie's Law relics,
Wilson's Prehistoric Annals of Scotland, edition 1863,
vol. ii. , pp. 250 et seq.

Largo Bay is the indentation of the N side of the
Firth of Forth, at the top of which the parish just
described lies. It is flanked on the E side by Kincraig
Point, 12| miles in a straight line SW of Fife Ness,
and on the W side by the point at Buckhaven harbour,
measures across the mouth, in a line from point to
point,' 6| miles, and 2J miles from this line to the
deepest part. The shores, formed from E to W by the
parishes of Kilconquhar, Newburn, Largo, Scoonie, and
Wemyss, are rocky on the E, W, and centre, and else-
where low and sandy. There are several streams flowing
into it, of which the chief are Cocklemill Burn, near
the E side, Kiel Burn in the centre, and the river Leven
on the W ; within the baj', at the extreme E side, is a
smaller rocky bay § mile wide across the mouth, and ^
mile deep, with its sides formed E by Kincraig Point,
and W by Ruddons Point. The bottom of the bay is
mostly sandy, and forms excellent ground for line
fishing, as witness the song of The Boatie Roius —

'I ciiist my line in Larg-o Ba}-,

And fishes I caujrht nine ;
There's three to boil, and three to fry.
And three to bait the line.'

All along the coast extensive salmon fishings are carriea
on by fixed nets. Towards the E, beneath the sands,
there are traces of a submerged forest.

Largoward, a village in Kilconquhar parish, and a
quoad sacra parish formed from Kilcouquliar, Largo,
Cameron, and Carnbee parishes. The village is 4J
miles NE of Largo railway station, and 6i SW by S of
St Andrews. Pop. (1861) 323, (1871) 325"", (1881) 338,
of whom 181 were males and 157 females. The quoaA
sacra parisli is in the presbytery of St Andrews and the
synod of Fife. The church, originally a chapel of ease,
was built in 1835, and contains 400 sittings. Largo-
ward and New Gilston public schools, with respective
accommodation for 165 and 90 children, had (1881) an
average attendance of 103 and 69, and grants of £90,
2s. 6d. and £69, 2s. Pop. of parish (1871) 1090, (1881)
1103, of whom 582 were in the Kilconquhar section, 211
in the Largo section, 235 in the Cameron section, and
75 in the Carnbee section.

Largs (Gael, learg, ' a hill-slope '), a police burgh
and parish in the district of Cunuinghame, Ayrshire.
The town is situated on the coast, upon a large gravel
deposit, which was probably at one time part of the
bed of the Firth of Clyde ; and the broad shingly beach
in front of the town has a gradual slope that makes it
at once pleasant and safe for bathers. Largs stands
on the highroad between Greenock and Ardrossan,
6 miles S of Wemyss Bay, 9 NW of Kilbirnie, and 30
NNW of Ayr. A second and more inland road also
leads to Greenock through Noddsdale or Noddlcsdale,
but it is now rarely used except by the farmers through
whose lands it passes. The nearest railwaj' stations are
at Fairlie, 3 miles S, which is at present (1883) the
terminus of a branch of the Glasgow and Soutli-Western
railwa}', and at Wemyss Bay, where the Caledonian
railway has a terminus ; but plans have already been
prepared to extend the Fairlie line to Largs, although

469

LABGS

operations have not yet been actually begun. Com-
munication with Wemyss Bay is maintained by cteamers
plying in connection with the railway ; and with Fairlie
by means of daily omnibuses and waggonettes. The
country surrounding Largs is picturesque and fertile ;
the climate is dry and healthj^ ; and, although not so
absolutely protected from the E wind as its inhabitants
claim, it is one of the healthiest and most favourite
watering-places on the Clyde. The main street, which
at one", part expands to a considerable breadth, runs
directly inland from the pier and harbour, spanning
the Gogo Burn by means of a stone bridge at its inland
or E end. Running off from it, or parallel to it, are
several other narrower streets and alleys, of which the
chief is called Gallowgate. A broad esplanade, terraced
on the sea-ward side, extends N from the quay for a
considerable distance, and is continued almost to the
Noddle Burn by a strip of rough common, separating
the high road from the beach. A row of recently
erected houses, intended for letting purposes, and the
Episcopal church, marks for the present the extension
of the town in this direction ; while along the inland
side of the road, stretching between these and the town
proper, are situated a number of substantial villas, each
in its own grounds. Southwards from the quay, a
short street, crossing the Gogo Burn by an iron bridge,
leads to the jileasant suburb of Broomtields, consisting
of handsome and comfortable villas, built on the crest
of a gentle grass-covered slope, inclining towards the
sea. In the vicinity of the town, though beyond the
boundaries of the burgh, there are numerous private
houses, for the most part standing within pleasantly
laid out gardens or grounds, and as these are generally
occupied by the proprietors, even in winter, the society
of the town is both more extensive and of a higher class
than at most sea-bathing towns on the Clyde.

Largs has no public buildings of importance besides
the churches. The quay, built substantially of stone
in 1834, cost £4275 ; and, while it forms a kind of
breakwater enclosing a small harbour, it is accessible by
steamers on its outward side at all states of the tide.
In 1816 a bath-house was erected at Largs ; but that is
now used as a public hall. The parish church, built in
1812 and repaired in 1833, is a plain building with a
good steeple, in which there is a public clock. The
church contains 1268 sittings. The Free church, a
very simple structure, was built soon after the Disrup-
tion. The U.P. church in Waterside Street, built
in 1826, has 690 sittings, and St Columba's Episcopal
church, a small biiilding in the Early English style
Avith 250 sittings, was built in 1877. St Mary's
Roman Catholic chm'ch in School Street was built to
contain 140 in 1870. Largs had a parochial school,
endowed with 100 merks annually, but without a
schoolhouse, so early as 1696. In 1809 the heritors
erected a school and master's house ; and later Sir
Thomas Brisbane erected, at a cost of £350, another
school and master's house, endowing it with £30 a
year. Botli of these schools, together with one in
School Street, are now in the hands of the school board.
In 1881 the respective accommodations, attendance, and
government grants of the various schools were : — Largs
public school, 162, 167, £115, 12s. ; Brisbane Academy
and the Female Industrial school together, 420, 126,
£83, 13s. ; and another Female Industrial school, 103,
57, £43, 13s. On the esplanade in front of the parish
church a handsome granite drinking fountain was
erected about 1873 at a cost of £550 in memory of
the late Dr Campbell, who for sixty-one years had
been physician in the town. Largs cemetery lies a
little to the SE of the town, on the steep slope of a
hill, over which passes the road to Dairy. It is very
carefully tended and neatly laid out, and its upper
walks command an exquisite view over the Clyde. The
chief object of antiquarian interest in Largs is what is
known as the Skelmorlie Aisle, the only relic of the
ancient church situated in the old graveyard, adjacent
to the present parish church. This aisle, of chiselled
freestone, was erected and converted into a mausoleum
470

LAB6S

by Sir Robert Montgomery of Skelmorlie in 1636. In
the interior its lofty roof is vaulted with boarding,
painted in forty-one compartments with various emble-
matic, moral, and heraldic subjects, as the signs of
the zodiac, escutcheons, texts from Scripture, several
views of the mansion of Skelmorlie, and the representa-
tion of the death of one of the ladies of the Skelmorlie
family from the kick of a horse. A richly carved
monument stands across the aisle to the left of the
entrance, 11^ feet long, 5 broad, and 18 high, to
the memory of Sir Robert Montgomery and his wife,
Dame Margaret Douglas, whose leaden coffins lie in the
vault below. The epitaph of the latter alone is legible,
and runs as follows : —

' Bis duo bisq decern transegi virginls annos ;

Ter duo ter decern consociata viro,
Et bis opem Lucina tulit. Mas Patris imago

Spesq domus superest : Femina iussa mori.
Clara genus generosa, anima speciosa decore

Cara Deo vivi : nunc mihi cuncta Deus.'

On the corner of Sir Robert's coffin, however, is the
inscription —

' Ipse milii praemortuus fui, fato funera
Pi'aeripui, unicuni idque Caesareum
Exemplar inter tot mortales secutus.'

alluding to his habit of descending to pray in his wife's
tomb, and thus, as it were, burjnng himself alive. In
another coffin within the vault is the body of Ser Hewe
the JMonggombyrry, said to have been slain at Chevy
Chase after himself slaying Percy ; but according to
the more historical ballad of the Battle of Otterburn
(1388)—

'Then was there a Scottish prisoner ta'en.

Sir Hugh Montgomery was his name.
For sooth as I you say,
He borrowed the Percy home again.'

i.e., was exchanged for Percy. A large barrow or
mound, about 25 yards long and 9 broad, and about 5
feet high, situated near the old burying-ground in the
centre of the town, is by many held to be the ancient
moat-hill or place for the punishment of criminals,
especially as the Gallowgate is in the immediate vicinity ;
but others, including Dr Phene, who excavated the
mound in 1873, incline to recognise in it the spot in
which the Norwegians were buried after the battle of
Largs. Other relics of the battle are referred to subse-
quently.

Largs is the seat of a head post office, with the usual
departments ; has branch offices of the Royal and Union
Banks ; and 18 insurance companies have agents in the
town. There are 5 hotels, an agricultural society,
2 bowling-greens, a mechanic's librarj^, and a fever
hospital, besides various associations and clubs, of
which perhaps Largs Yacht Club is most noteworthy.
A gaswork was erected in the town in 1838 ; and water
is supplied by gravitation from works on the farm of
Middleton. One eoastguardsmau is stationed at Largs.
There is little or no industry beyond a little fishing,
and the ordinary retail trade of a small town. There
are, however, a corn and saw mill on the Gogo, and
another mill on the Noddle. Two Saturday newspapers
are the Largs and Mill^mrt Weakly News (1876) and the
Largs and MiUimrt Herald (1883).

Largs, until recently, was governed mainly by the
county authorities ; but since it became a burgli it lias
1 chief and 2 junior magistrates, and 6 commissioners.
The harbour is managed by a committee under a chair-
man. The burgh is in the Kilmarnock district of the
sheriff-court ; and a justice of the peace court for small
debts is held on the first Monday of every month. A
fair is annually held on Comb's Day (originally St
Colme's or St Columba's), the first Tuesday of June
after the 12tli, but this gathering has lost almost all of
its old importance. Jiesides the means of communica-
tion already referred to, two carriers ply to Glasgow,
one six times, the other five times a week. Pop. (1851)
2824, (1861) 2638, (1871) 2760, (1881) 3079, of whom
1739 were icmalcs. Houses occupied 722, vacant 219,
building 11.

LARGS

The chief historical event connected with the town is
the battle of Largs, fought 3 Oct. 1263, between the
Scots, under Alexander III., and the Norse, under Haco
III. The fleet of the latter had been much damaged
by a storm immediately before the battle, which had
been artfully delayed by Alexander ; and the Norsemen
•were compelled to eflect a landing with but a part of
their whole strength. The battle which followed re-
sulted in a complete victory for the Scots, and effectually
put an end to the Norwegian claim of sovereignty over
the western coasts and islands of Scotland. The chief
scene of the fight was a plain to the S of the town,
immediatel}'' below the mansion of Haylee ; but there
are memorials of the struggle extant in many quarters.
Some of these are merely local names, as Camphill farm
in Dairy parish, Burle3'gate and Killingcraig on the
Routdon Burn ; and still further S, Keppingbm'n, where
Sir Robert Boyd, ancestor of the Earls of Kilmarnock,
is said to have intercepted a band of fleeing Norsemen.
Among the visible relics may be counted the remains of
the tumulus known as 'Haco's tomb,' consisting of a
large flat stone supported on two others. Till 1780 the
tumulus was known as Margaret's Law ; but when
opened in that year, it was found to cover five stone
coflins containing skulls and other bones, while manj'
human bones and some urns were found above and
about the coffins. From this discovery it was at once
concluded that the remains were those of some of the
slain at the battle of Largs ; and popular haziness as to
the details of the fight and the real fate of Haco has
evolved the modern name. Another mound called
Greenhill, at the entrance to the avenue of Hawkhill
House, has also, perhaps too hastily, been identified as
another Norwegian burial-place. Built into the garden
wall of Curling Hall, a mansion near the shore in Largs,
is a rude stone pillar, to which is now attached a copper
plate with the following inscription : —

' Substitit hie Gothi furor.

Conditur hie Haco Steinensis, et undique circum

Norvegios fidos terra tegit socios : —

Hue regnmu venere petentes ; Scotia victor

Hostibus hie tumulos, preemia justa, dedit.

Quarto ante nonas Octobres, a.d. 1263,

Largis

Ipsis Calendis Junii, a.d. 1823,

Me posuit jussitque Joannes Carnius illam

Kem memorare tibi. — Tu memores aliis.'

In 1644 a terrible plague devastated the town, of which
several grave notices are contained in the records of
Irvine presbytery, which then included Largs. The
remains of several huts, found at Outerwards on the
Noddle Burn, are believed to be those of the temporary
refuge of the inhabitants of Largs during the pestilence.
The ' Prophet's Grave,' in a retired spot within Brisbane
Woods, contains the remains of the Rev. William Smith,
minister of Largs, who fell a victim to the plague in
1644. The name was given to the spot because, as Mr
Smith was dying, he affirmed that if two holly trees
were planted, one at each end of his grave, and pre-
vented from ever meeting, the plague would never
revisit the town. The trees have been carefully kept
asunder, and Largs has never again suffered from
pestilence.

The parish of Largs is bounded on the N and E by
Renfrewshire, on the SE by Kilbirnie parish, on the S
by Dairy and West Kilbride, and on the W by the Firth
of Clyde. Its greatest length, from N by E to S by AV,
is 9| miles ; its greatest breadth is 5^ miles ; and its
area is 21,850 acres. On the E boundary a range of
hills and high-lying moorland divide this parish so
distinctly from the cultivated land to the N, E, and SE,
as to give rise to the saying, ' Out o' the world and into
the Largs.' There is probably a reference to this expres-
sion in the quaint name, 'the back of the world,' given
locally to the NE corner of the parish. The chief
heights in the E region are, from N to S, Berry Hill
(943 feet), Knockencorsan (1028), Black Fell (1323),
Burnt Hill (1569) and South Burnt Hill (1481), Peat
Hill (1339), Rowantree Hill (1404), Hill of Stake
(1711) ; on the extreme E border, High Corby Knowe

LARGS

(1615), Girtley Hill (1254), Cockrobin (1271), Box Law
(1543), and Blacklaw (1525). The uplands gradually
descend as they approach the shore, sometimes, indeed,
terminating in abrupt declivities, especially in the N.
For the most part they are covered with verdure, and
give evidence of having been under tillage. A fertile
plain, about a mile broad, extends southwards from
about a mile to the N of tlie town of Largs, well-wooded
and cultivated, and separating the beach from the higher
ground.

Two burns, the Rotten Burn and the Calder Water,
trace part of the boundary with Renfrewshire to the NE
and E. But most of the streams of the parish are small,
and flow westward into the firth. Of these the chief are
Kelly Burn, which marks the N boundary, flowing
through a beautifully-wooded den ; Skelmorlie Water,
entering the sea just S of Skelmorlie Castle ; Noddle
Burn, rising between Knockencorsan and Blackfell, and
flowing SW, with many feeders, through Brisbane Glen ;
and the Gogo, which receives the Greeto from Water-
head Moor. Clea Burn, draining the lovely Kelbum
Glen, and Fairlie Burn are small streams. Blackfield
Loch, in the N, a very small expanse, is the only lake.
Trap and Old Red sandstone are the chief rocks ; lime-
stone and shale are found near Quarter ; and building
sandstone is found. Part of the lowland soil is fertile
alluvium, but in general it is a poor dihris of Old Red
sandstone. The upland soil is chiefly heathy or moor-
land. The families most closely identified historically
with Largs parish are Fairlie of that Ilk, Boyle of Kel-
l)urn, Brisbane of that Ilk, Fraser of Knock, Wilson of
Haylee, and Montgomery of Skelmorlie. The most
extensive landholders are the Earl of Glasgow, Charles
Brisbane of Brisbane House, the Earl of Eglinton, John
Scott of Hawkhill, and Geo. Elder of Knock Castle.
The chief mansions and seats are Skelmorlie Castle,
Bridgend House, Ashcraig, St Fillans, Knock Castle,
Quarter, Routenburn House, Brisbane House, Hawkhill
House, Haylee, and Kelburne Castle, the property of the
Earl of Glasgow. The parish contains, besides the town
of Largs, the villages of Fairlie and Skelmorlie, at each
of which there is a quoad sacra parish church, and the
small hamlet of Meigie, where a small concrete chapel
was erected in 1S76. A high-road between Greenock
and Ardrossan passes through the parish ; and tlie
Glasgow and South-Western railway in 1880-82 extended
their line to Fairlie, where a new pier, etc., have been
erected.

Including the whole of Fairlie and most of Skelmorlie
quoad sacra parish, Largs is in the presbytery of Greenock
and the synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; the living is worth
£bo%. Besides the churches in the town, there are
Established churches at Skelmorlie and Fairlie, a Free
church at Fairlie, and a U.P. church at Skelmorlie.
Valuation (1860) £21,316, (1883) £42,478, 8s. Pop.
(1801) 1361, (1831) 2848, (1861) 3620, (1871) 4087,
(1881) 5149, of whom 3425 were in the ecclesiastical
parish.

The name Largs appears to have been anciently given
the northern and smaller of the two parts into which
the district of Cunninghame was divided. John Baliol,
competitor for the Scottish crown, inherited this lord-
ship from his mother ; and, on his forfeiture, it was
conferred by Robert Bruce on his son-in-law, Walter,
the Steward of Scotland. The church was held by the
monks of Paisley till 1587, when the church lands, etc.,
were made a temporal lordship in favour of Lord Claud
Hamilton. In the reign of Charles I. this passed to
Montgomery of Skelmorlie. The church was dedicated
to St Columba.

The anti(]uities of the parish, besides those connected
with the battle of Largs (see ante), include Skelmorlie
and Fairlie Castles, noted in separate articles. Not far
from the former is an artificial mound, rising to the
height of 100 feet, and partly overgrown with trees,
which is supposed to have been used by the ancient
Britons in the rites of sun-worship and serpent-worship.
This serpent-mound was discovered by Dr Phene, whose
excavations on the spot resulted in the discovery of a

471

LAREHALL

f)aved platform in the form of a segment of a circle, and
arge masses of charcoal and portions of bones. ' Taking
the latitude of the mound, and tlie points of the compass
where the sun would rise and set on the longest day, this
segment-shaped platform, devoted apparently to sacrifice
by fire, is found to fill up the remaining interval, and
thereby complete the fiery circle of the sun's course,
which would be deficient by that space. . . . Inde-
pendently of the time of year indicated by this fire
agreeing with that of the midsummer fires of the Druids,
we have here not only an evidence of solar and serpent
worship, but also of sacrifice. ' About half-way between
Skelmorlie and Largs is St Fillan's Well, near which is
the site of the ancient chapel of St Fillan, now utterly
destroyed. Near the modern Knock Castle rises the
remains of an older building of the same name, a very
ancient mansion of the Frasers of Lovat, from whom it
passed in 1674. Immediately behind rises Knock Hill
(711 feet), on which have been discovered the traces of
a triply-entrenched camp, believed to be Roman. Various
Roman coins and tiles have been dug up, especially in
and near the town ; and according to Paterson's History
of Ayrshire, a Roman bath was discovered in Largs in
the year 1820.— Ord Sur., shs. 21, 22, 29, 30, 1865-73.
See the Rev. James Johnston's Norwegian Account of
Haco's Expedition (1782), and Gardner's Wemyss Bay,
Innerki-p, and Largs (Paisley, 1879).

Larkhall, a Lanarkshire town and quoad sacra parish,
chiefly in Dalserf parish, but partly in Hamilton. Stand-
ing 320 feet above sea-level, ^ mile from the right bank
of the Avon, \\ from the left bank of the Clyde, and
3J miles SSE of Hamilton, the town has a station on
the Lesmahagow branch of the Caledonian railway, Q\
miles S by E of Holytown. With slight exception
it began to be built about 1776, and for 15 or 20 years
continued to be only a small village. It then was
rapidly extended, chiefly by means of building societies,
but is less a town, in the ordinary sense of the word,
than an assemblage of villages, hamlets, rows of houses,
and isolated dwellings. Its inhabitants are principally
miners connected with neighbouring collieries, bleachers,
and handloom weavers in the employment of Glasgow
manufacturers ; and Larkhall has a post ofl'ice, with
money order, savings' bank, and telegraph departments,
a branch of the Union Bank, gasworks, a quoad sacra
parish church (1835 ; 700 sittings), a Free church, a
U.P. church (1836; 700 sittings), an Evangelical Union
chapel (1876 ; 420 sittings), St Mary's Roman Catholic
church (1872), a subscription library, a masonic lodge,
etc. The quoad sacra parish is in the presbytery of
Hamilton and synod of Glasgow and Ayr ; its minister's
stipend is £200. Four public schools — Academy, Duke
Street, Glengowan, and Muir Street — and a Roman
Catholic school, with respective accommodation for 272,
81, 350, 350, and 212 children, had (1881) an average
attendance of 284, 81, 422, 501, and 179, and grants of
£281, 8s., £50, lis. 6d., £351, 18s. 6d., £456, 13s.,
and £147, 10s. Pop. of town (1861) 2685, (1871) 4971,
(1881) 6503, of whom 96 were in Hamilton ; of q. s.
parish (1871) 5332, (1881) 7063, of whom 360 were in
Hamilton.— Ord Sur., sli. 23, 1865.

Laro, Loch. See Creich, Sutherland.

Larriston, an estate in Castleton parish, Roxburgh-
shire, on tlie left bank of Liddel AVater, 7 miles NNE of
Newcastleton. It is the property of James Jardine,
Esq. of Dryfeholm (b. 1816), wlio holds 4293 acres in
Roxburgh and 761 in Dumfriesshire, valued at £1373
and £1118 per annum. Larriston Castle stood on
the right bank of Larriston Burn, and was once the
stronghold of a chief of the Elliots, that ' Lion of
Liddesdale ' whom Hogg has commemorated in a stirring
ballad.— r>d Sur., sh. 11, 1863.

Larthat, a hamlet of S Dumfriesshire, 5^ miles from
Annan.

Lassodie, a collier village in Beath parish, Fife, 4|
miles KNE of the post-town Dunfermline. It has a
post office, a iiublic school (1877), and a Free church.
Lassodie House is the seat of James Dewar, Esq.
(b. 1849), who holds 1047 acres in the shire, valued at
472

LASSWADE

£2087 per annum. Pop. of village (1881) ^OS.—Ord.
Sur., sh. 40, 1867.

Lasswade, a small town and parish of Edinburgh-
shire. The town stands on the left bank of the North
Esk, but includes the suburb of Westmill in Cockpen
parish, with which it is connected by a substantial
stone bridge. There is a station at Lasswade on the
Polton branch of the North British railway, 9^ miles
SSE of Edinburgh by rail, and &\ by road. The site of
the town, in the hollow and on the steep sides of the Esk
valley, gives it an exceedingly romantic and picturesque
aspect, although the marked irregularity of the ground
prevents the usual convenience of street arrangement.
It is said to have furnished Sir Walter Scott with some
of the particulars in his description of 'Gandercleugh' in
The Talcs of My Landlord. There are no buildings
of any pretensions in Lasswade. The parish church,
built in 1793 from plans by Lord Eldin, contains upwards
of 1000 sittings ; it occupies a lovely site on the brow
of the hill overlooking the to\vn. In front of it is a
runic cross to Dr Smith of Lasswade and his son, Col.
R. B. Smith, the commanding engineer at the siege of
Delhi. A small portion of the former church is still
standing near, and contains in one of its aisles the family
burying place of the family of Melville, in which lies the
body of Henry Dundas, first Viscount Melville, 'the col-
league and friend of Pitt, and from 1775 to 1805 the vir-
tual king of Scotland. ' In another small arched aisle the
poet Drummond of Hawthorndex lies, but without any
special stone to mark the exact spot. An ancient square
belfry, four stories high, was a conspicuous relic of the
old church until blown down in Nov. 1866. Till 1855
the efiigy of a fully-armed knight lay among the ruins
of the church. South of the bridge stands a house with
ancient stones built into it, one of which has the in-
scription, '1557 A. A., NOSCE TEiPSUM.' On the Cockpen
side of the Esk a U.P. church was built in 1830, with
accommodation for 655 persons. The schools are noted
below. Lasswade has a post office, with money order,
savings' bank, and telegraph departments, a branch of
the Bank of Scotland, 5 insurance agencies, and various
associations and clubs. Besides a service by rail, there
is daily communication with Edinburgh by coach. The
village is lighted with gas, and has a fair water supply.
The industries are entirely manufacturing, except as
regards the supj^ly of the ordinary wants of its inhabi-
tants. There are 2 flour-mills, a carpet-factory, and
paper-mills. The first paper-mill at Lasswade was
erected about 1750, and in 1794 its hands received a
total of about £3000 a-year. Lasswade was for several
years the residence of John Clerk, Lord Eldin (1757-
1832). Lasswade Cottage, a plain, thatched, ivy-mantled
house, was the home of Sir Walter Scott from 1798 to
1804. Here he wrote his Grey Brother, translation of
Goetz von Bcrlichingen, etc., and here was visited by
Wordsworth. Thomas de Quincey, from 1840 till his
death in 1859, had his headquarters and family abode
at Man's Bush Cottage (now De Quincey Villa), 1| mile
beyond Lasswade, in the hollow of the Esk, beside
Polton station. William Tennant, the author of Anster
Fair, was parish schoolmaster from 1816 to 1819 ; and
Thomas Murray (1792-1872), the Gallovidian author,
died here. Pop. (1861) 713, (1871) 1258, (1881) 1232.

Lasswade parish is bounded N by Colinton, Liberton,
and Newton, W by Glencorse, S by Penicuik and Car-
rington, and E by Cockpen, Newbattle, and Dalkeith.
Its greatest length, from NNE to SSW, is 7^ miles ; its
greatest breadth is 6 miles, bvit its average breadth is
little over 3 miles ; and its area is 10,678 acres. A pro-
jecting wing at the NW extremity is occupied by the E
end of the Pentland Hills, presenting partly heath and
partly good pasture ; and in the S, a district of
bleak and unsheltered moorland, including some of the
northern declivities of the Moorfoot Hills, stretches for
about 2 miles into the interior. The surface on the
whole declines rapidly from the border towards the SE,
and consists of rich and well cultivated j)lain, finely
wooded, and of picturesquely diversified scenery. The
North Esk strikes the boundary of the parish about a

LASSWADE

mile from the SW extremity, runs along the W boundary
for about ^ mile, and then turning NNE cuts the rest
of the parish into nearly equal parts. The bed and
gorge of this river form a beautifully romantic and
picturesque glen, with lofty precipitous sides, thickly
wooded banks, and are thus referred to iu Scott's ballad
fragment of The Grey Brother ; —

'Sweet are the paths, O passin.? sweet

By Esk's fair streams that run
O'er airy steep, through copsewood deep,
Impervious to the sun.

* Who knows not Melville's beechy grove.
And Roslin's rocky glen ;
Dalkeith, which all the virtues love.
And classic Hawthornden.'

The hills in the NW are eruptive, in the S Silurian,
while the great bulk of the lowland rocks are car-
boniferous. Limestone, sandstone, and clay are worked,
but the chief mineral of the parish is coal, which is
mined chiefly near Loanhead and Kosewell. In the
barony of Loanhead alone there are some 25 coal seams,
from 2 to 10 feet thick, and in some workings the depth
of 270 feet has been attained. It is calculated that
Lasswade sends annually about 30,000 tons of coal to
Edinburgh, besides supplying local wants. The dip of
the coal on the E side of the Esk is so small that they are
called 'flat broad coal,' in contrast to the edge-coals on
the W side. A coal-mine was accidentally set on fire
in 1770 near the Liberton boundary of the parish, and,
in spite of all eff'orts to put out the fire, it burned for
more than twenty years.

The other industries of the parish are noted under the
various towns and villages. It was long noted for its
oat-meal, and a miller in Lasswade used to supply that
article to the royal nursery, during the childhood of
George III.'s family. Lord Melville having recommended
the meal to the king. The chief proprietors in the
parish are Lieut. -Col. Gibsone of Pentlaud, Viscount
Melville, Drummond of Hawthornden, Sir Geo. Clerk
of Penicuik, and Mrs Durham of Polton. The chief
seats along tioth banks of the Esk are Mavisbank (now
a private asylum for lunatics), Dryden Bank, Dryden,
and Rosebank on the left ; and Eldin, Polton, Spring-
field, Glenesk, Hawthornden, Gorton, and Auchendinny
(residence of Henry Mackenzie, The Man of Feeling),
on the right. Eldin was the residence of John Clerk,
F.R.S. (1736-1812), inventor of the naval tactic of
breaking the enemy's line. Numerous villas have been
built near Roslin and Lasswade. But the grandest
county seat is Melville Castle, about a mile below
Lasswade. The parish includes the villages of Lass-
wade, Roslin, Loanhead, and Rosewell, a small suburb
of Penicuik, and part of Bonnyrigg. It is traversed by
the Peebles branch of the North British railway.

Lasswade XJarish is in the presbytery of Dalkeith and
the synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. The parish of
Melville was incorporated with it in 1633, and a con-
siderable part of the ancient parish of Pentland is also
included. The stipend, including glebe and manse, is
£371. The civil parish embraces the quoad sacra parishes
of Roslin and Rosewell. There are a Free church and
an Episcopal chapel at Roslin village, a U.P. church
at Bridgend, and a Free and a Reformed Presbyterian
church at Loanhead. The schools in the parish with
their respective accommodation, average attendance,
and government grant in 1881 were Lasswade (238, 348,
£337, 9s.), Loanhead (260, 307, £243, 10s.), Rosewell
(260, 203, £153, 18s.), and Roslin (160, 201, £166, Is.).
Valuation (1871) £37,493, (1883) £56,251, i^lus £9811
for railways and waterworks. Pop. (1801) 3348, (1841)
5025, (1861) 5688, (1871) 7098, (1881) 8872, of whom
5267 were in the ecclesiastical parish.

Lasswade parish church, with its pertinents, became,
in the 12tli century, a mensal church of the Bishop of
St Andrews ; it was later a prebend of St Salvator's
College, St Andrews ; and in the reign of James III. it
was transferred, by the Pope's authority, to the dean
of the collegiate church of Restalrig. The vicinity of
Roslin was the scene of a battle, or rather three battles
67

LATHERON

in one day (24 Feb. 1303), in which the Scottish army
is said to have successively overcome three divisions of
the English arm}'', each more numerous than the victors'
whole force. Among the antiquities, the chief are the
castle and chapel at Roslin, and the mansion and caves
at Hawthornden. Of the Maiden Castle that stood at
Lasswade, nothing is now visible but some massive
foundations. Wallace's cave, on the Esk, is calculated
to hold 70 men ; Wallace's camp, a curious crescent-
shaped formation, is at Bilston Burn ; near Mavisbank
House is a supposed Roman station, the chief feature
of which is a circular earthen mound, girt with ramparts,
now cut into terraces, where various relics have been
found. From a tumulus, in a neighbouring farm, urns
filled with calcined bones have been dug. One mile E of
Melville Castle — itself an interesting historic building —
is Sherifl'hall, where some green mounds are held to
mark the site of an ancient camp, and where stood an
old house in which George Buchanan is said to have
written his History of Scotland. — Ord. Sur., sh. 32,
1857.

Lathallan House, a mansion in Kilconquhar parish,
Fife, 2i miles NNW of Colinsburgh. The estate—
1151 acres, of £2585 annual value — belongs to the
Lumsdaine family.

Latheron, a coast village and parish of S Caithness.
The village of Latheron, Janetstown, or Latheron wheel,
stands near the mouth of Latheronwheel Burn, ISJ
miles SW of Wick and 19 NE of Helmsdale station.
It has an hotel and a post office under Wick, with
money order and savings' bank departments. Other
fishing villages in the parish, with their distance from
Latheron, are Berriedale (9 miles SSW), Dunbeath
(3^ SW), FoRSE (2J ENE), Lybster (5 ENE), and
Clyth (7 ENE), all of them being noticed separately.

The parish is bounded N by Watten and Wick, SE
by the German Ocean, SW and W by Kildonan iu
Sutherland, and NW by Halkirk. Its utmost length,
from NE to SW, is 21§ miles ; its breadth varies
between 1 J and 14| miles; and its land area is 186J
sc[uare miles or 119,539 acres. The coast, which all
along — for 25|: miles — is followed pretty closely by the
high-road to Wick, rises so steeply from the sea that the
road has an altitude of 700 feet above sea-level at the
Ord of Caithness, 500 beyond Berriedale, 254 beyond
Dunbeath, 262 beyond Latheron, and 252 beyond Clyth.
It projects no prominent headland, and is indented only
by tiny inlets ; but its lofty cliffs are pierced, at high-
water mark, by numerous caves, the haunts of seals,
and some of them 300 to 360 feet long. Of several
streams that drain the interior to the sea, the largest
are Langwell Water (running 12J miles east-by-south-
ward to Berriedale Water, 3 furlongs above its mouth),
Berriedale Water (21f miles east-south-eastward),
Dunbeath Water (14^ miles east-by-southward), and
Reisgill Burn (4j miles south-by-eastward) ; whilst of
thirteen lakes the principal — all near the Halkirk
border — are Lochs Stemster (2| x 2 furl. ; 469 feet),
Raugag (5 J x 2^ furl. ; 375 feet), Ruard {8h x 3 furl ;
495 feet), and Dubh (4f x 1| furl. ; 698 feet). Chief
elevations are the *Ord of Caithness (1078 feet), Braigh
na h-Eaglaise (1387), and *Scalabsdale (1819), to the S
of Langwell Water ; Scaraben (2054), Morven (2313),
and the *Knockfin Heights (1416), between Langwell
and Berriedale Waters; Beinn Choireach (891), and
Orschaige Hill (969), between Berriedale and Dunbeath
Waters ; and Cnocan Con na Craige (867), Coire na
Beinne (740), and *Cnoc an Earranaiche (693), to the N
of Duubeath Water — where asterisks mark those sum-
mits that culminate on the confines of the parish. Thus
the interior is charmingly diversified, especially in the
SW, presenting a continued succession of vale and hill,
of glen and mountain, sometimes in rapid alternation,
and generally with bold features in striking contrast to
the tame flat aspect of most other parts of the county.
The south-western district, indeed, is everywhere ujdand,
with mountains nearly as lofty, and glens quite as
picturesque, as many of those most famous in the High-
lauds. The rocks arc variously granite, clay fiag-

473

LATHOCKAR

stone, Old Eed sandstone, and red sandstone conglo-
merate ; and the soil of the arable lands is of various
quality, but mostly shallow, sharp, and gravelly, in
many "parts encumbered with boulders. In spite of
extensive reclamations within recent years, less than a
twelfth of the entire area is in tillage ; about 600 acres
are under wood, chiefly along the romantic braes of
Langwell and Berriedale Waters ; and the rest is sheep-
walk, deer-forest, and heathy waste. The maritime
crofters depend in great measure on the harvest of the
sea ; and the following are the fishing stations, with the
number of their boats and fishermen :— Berriedale
(3 ; 12), Dunbeath (60 ; 115), Latheronwheel (33 ; 86),
Forse (44; 62), Lybster (129; 200), Clyth (55; 90):
total (324 ; 565). Antiquities are the ruins or sites of
' Picts' houses,' standing stones, and the castles of
Berriedale, Achastle, Knockinnan, Latheron, Forse,
Swiney, and Clyth, all situated on the coast, chiefly
on the brink of rocky cliff's overhanging the sea.
Sir John Sinclair (1754-1835), the distinguished writer
on Scottish agriculture and statistics, resided much
on the Langwell estate, and commenced here some
of his earliest improvements ; and at Badreisky,
near Forse, died Peter or ' Luckie ' Sutherland (1768-
1880). Latheronwheel House, 3 miles NNE of Dun-
beath, is a seat of Michael Stocks, Esq. (b. 1825),
who holds 13,600 acres in the shire, valued at £1744
per annum. Other mansions, noticed separately, are
Dunbeath Castle, Forse House, Langwell, and
Swiney House ; and, in all, 8 proprietors hold each an
annual value of £500 and upwards, 1 of between £100
and £500, 4 of from £50 to £100, and 11 of from £20
to £50. Giving off' Berriedale qiLoad sacra parish,
Latheron is in the presbytery of Caithness and synod of
Sutherland and Caithness ; the living is worth £363.
The parish church was built in 1734, and, as repaired
and enlarged in 1822, contains about 900 sittings.
Lybster chapel of ease was built in 1836, and contains
805 sittings ; and there are Free churches of Latheron,
Berriedale, Lybster, and Bruan. Twelve schools, with
total accommodation for 1568 children, had (1881) an
average attendance of 637, and grants amounting to
£587, 14s. lOd. Valuation (1860) £15,429, (1883)
£20,238, 9s. Pop. (1801) 3612, (1831) 7020, (1861)
8571, (1871) 7400, (1881) 6675, of whom 1944 were
Gaelic-speaking, wliilst 5489 belonged to Latheron and
1186 to Berriedale ecclesiastical parish. — Orel. Sur., shs.
110, 109, 1877-78.

Lathockar, an estate, with a mansion, in Cameron
parish, Fife, 4| miles SSW of St Andrews.

Lathones, a hamlet in Cameron parish, Fife, 6 miles
SSAV of St Andrews. It has a U.P. church.

Lathrisk House, a good mansion, nearly 100 years
old, in Kettle parish, Fife, near the right bank of the
Eden, If mile NE of Falkland. Purchased by his
ancestor about 1783, the estate is the property of George
Johnstone, Esq., who holds 10,005 acres in Fife and
3631 in Perthshire, valued at £14,017 and £1410 per
annum.— Orel. Sur., sh. 40, 1867. See Kettle, Largo,
and Monzie Castle.

Latrick. See C.-vmbuslang.
Latterach. See Glenlatterach.
Lauchope or Lachop House, an old mansion in Both-
well parish, Lanarkshire, IJ mile ENE of Holytown.
A tower-house, with walls of remarkable thickness, it
was the seat of a very ancient family, the parent-stem
of the Muirheads ; and gave refuge, on the eve of his
flight from Scotland, to Hamilton of Bothwellhaugh,
Murray's assassin at Linlithgow (1570). — Ord. Sur., sh.
31, 1867.

Lauder, a town and parish in the district of Lauder-
dale, Berwickshire. The town is a royal and parlia-
mentary burgh, a post-town, and the capital of Lauder-
dale. It stands on the right bank of Leader Water, 6
miles ENE of Stow railway station, 7 NNW of Earl-
ston, and 25 SE of Edinburgh. Communication is
maintained with Stow by means of daily omnibus and
carrier's cart ; but a new branch line of railway to
Lauder has been projected (see below). The town con-
474

LAUDER

sists chiefly of one long plain irregular street, stretch-
ing NW and SE along the highway. At one end this
thoroughfare is split into two by a row of houses ; and
diagonally across its NW end runs another street from
E to W, about 350 yards long. Describing the segment
of a circle on the SW side of the main street, and run-
ning nearly parallel with it on the NE side, are the two
thoroughfares of Upper and Under Backside. The park
wall of Thirlestane Castle screens the whole of the NE
side of these thoroughfares, and forms on that side the
boundary of the burgh. Though Lauder contains some
neat and well-built houses, and has its suburbs adorned
with a few neat villas, it presents on the whole a plain
and dull aspect. The town-hall stands at the NW end
of the intersecting line of houses in the main street,
overlooking a radiated pavement that marks the site
of an ancient cross. The parish church, a cruciform
edifice of quite unimposing appearance, stands a little
off' the street line immediately SW of the town-hall.
Erected in 1673, it was repaired in 1820, and contains
773 sittings. Lauder also contains a Free church with
450 sittings, a U.P. with 600, and a Roman Catholic
meeting-house. Its school, which is contained in a
good building, is noted under the parish. Lauder has
a head post office with the usual departments, a branch
of the Bank of Scotland, and offices or agents of 4 in-
surance companies. It has also a public reading-room
and library, agricultural, horticultural, total abstinence,
and clothing societies, a gas company (1842), a water
company (1830), etc. There is a good inn. Some
little trade with the surrounding country districts is
carried on, but the commercial importance of Lauder is
of the slightest description. It maintains its communi-
cation with the world at large, chiefly in virtue of its
being a convenient centre for trout-fishers. Besides
daily communication with Stow, there is a carrier from
Lauder to Dalkeith every Monday, and to Galashiels
every Saturday. Fairs are held on the first Tuesday in
March for hinds and herds ; on the sixth Tuesday
thereafter, and on the fourth Friday in October, for
servants ; and on the Friday before the 12th of August
for lambs.

The burgh is governed by 2 bailies and 7 councillors.
The municipal and the parliamentary constituency
numbered 183 and 143 in 1883, whilst the corporation
revenue was £485 in 1882. The burgh is proprietor of

Seal of Lauder.

Lauder Common, a stretch of 1700 acres. Sheriff" small-
debt courts are held on the last Wednesday of February,
first Wednesday of July, and first Monday of October.
A justice of peace court meets on the fourth Wednesday
of every second month, beginning with January. Lauder
unites with Haddington, Jedburgh, Dunbar, and North
Berwick in returning a member to parliament. Valua-
tion (1883) £2410. Pop. of royal burgh (1841) 1143,
(1861) 1121, (1881) 1014, of whom 964 were in the
parliamentary burgh.

Lauder is said to have been made a royal burgh in the

LAUDER

reign of William the L}^on, but its present charter dates
merely from 1502. In 1483 Lauder church — now de-
molished— -was the scene of the meeting of Scottish
nobles to take measures against the low-born favourites
of James III. Under the Earl of Angus (Bell-the-Cat),
the lords, in the words of Pitscottie, 'laid handis on all
servandis, and tuik them and hanged tlicm over the
Bridge of Lother befoir the king's eyes. ' This historic
bridge has quite disa^^peared. The strong tower, known as
Lauder Fort, said to have been built by Edward I. of
England, and repaired under James VI. , is now incor-
porated with Thirlestane Castle, whose fine grounds and
park are in immediate proximity to the town.

Lauder parish consists of a main body, and a small
detached portion. The former is bounded N by Had-
dingtonshire, NE by Longformacus and a detached sec-
tion of Cran?haws, E by Westrnther, SE by Legerwood,

5 by Roxburghshire, and W by Edinburghshire and
Channelkirk. Its length, from N to S is 11 miles ;
and its greatest breadth is 7 miles. The detached sec-
tion lies 1 J mile S of the nearest part of the main body,
and 3^ miles of the town of Lauder. It is bounded on
the E hj Legerwood and Earlston, and on all other sides
by Iloxburglishire. The total area of the parish, which
is the largest in Berwickshire, is 34,898 acres, of which
1302f acres belong to the detached part. The boim-
dary line along the N and NE, to the extent of 8 miles,
is the watershed of the Lammermuir Hills, and stretches
to the slopes of Lammer Law (1733 feet), which gives
name to the whole range. The highest of the peaks
tliat rise within the parish are Crib Law (1670 feet),
Seenes Law (1683), and Huntlaw (1625). For some 5 or

6 miles S of the N border, the surface is occupied by off-
shoots of the Lammermuir Hills, intersected with glens
and corries. The aspect is generally bleak and the soil
moorish, but gradually becomes more fertile as it ap-
proaches the S. The valleys through which the various
streams flow are fresh and verdant. The vale of the
Leader in particular has a low open bottom, with a
width varying from 1 to 2 miles, which it retains
throughout its course. The streams of the parish are
fairly numerous. Leader Water, the name of which is
merely a variety of Lauder, is the chief. Rising in the
extreme NAV corner of the parish, it flows for 5^ miles
along the W boundary ; runs for 4| miles SSE through
the interior ; forms, for f mile, the boundary with
Legerwood ; and, after traversing the intermediate space,
traces all the E boundary of the detached district.
Numerous burns rise on the borders, and run right and
left to the Leader ; one of the largest of these, the Brunta
Burn, for 6| miles bounds Westrnther and Legerwood.
One of the smallest, called Lauderburn, runs NE to the
S vicinity of the town. There is good trout-fishing in
the Leader. Perennial spi'ings are both numerous and
copious. The predominant rocks are eruptive, Silurian,
and Devonian, and yield abundant material for local
building. On much of the arable land the soil is clayey,
in some parts rich loam over a gravelly and sandy
bottom ; but, over the greatest proportion, it is of a
light dry character, specially suitable for turnips. The
greater part of the hills affords excellent pasturage for
sheep. Agi'iculture and sheep-farming are the only in-
dustries of importance.

The parish of Lauder has at present no direct railway
connection with the rest of the country, but the beginning
of 1884 is expected to see the commencement of a new line
of railway from Fountainhall station, on the Waverley
route of the North British, to Lauder. Owing to the
necessary curve of the line to the N of Oxton, its length
will be about 10| miles. The estimated cost is £43,000.
The terminus will be near the N end of the burgh of
Lauder. As all the proprietors through whose lands
the line would pass are favourable to its construction
no act of parliament will be necessary ; and the work
will be carried on under the Railway Powers Construc-
tion Acts, 1864-70. There will be a station between
Oxton and Carfrae Mill.

The chief landholders are the Earl of Lauderdale and
the Marcj^uis of Tweeddale, The parish contains the

LAURENCEKIRK

burgh of Lauder. Tlie chief seats are Thirlestane Castle,
Chapel-on-Lcader, and Allenbank.

The parish belongs to the presbytery of Earlston and
to the synod of Merse and Teviotdale. The stipend is
£401, including the manse and glebe. The Free Church
of Lauder is in the E.G. presbytery of Selkirk ; and the
U.P. church in the U.P. presbytery of Melrose. The
board school at Lauder had, in 1881, accommodation for
437 pupils, an average attendance of 252, and govern-
ment grant of £261, 3s. Cleikimin school had 64, 33,
and £38, 9s. as the figures for these particulars. Valua-
tion (1865) £17,531, lis. 3d., (1882) £20,925, 9s. 3d.
Pop. of civil parish (1801) 1760, (1841) 2198, (1861)
2198, (1871) 2120, (1881) 1940. Houses, 375 inhabited,
32 vacant.— Ore?. Sur., sh. 25, 1865.

The ancient parish church appears to have been
endowed with a considerable living. The advowson
was given in the reign of David I. to Sir Hugh Morville,
constable of Scotland ; and it afterwards passed into
the possession of Devorgilla, wife of John Baliol, by
whom it was given to the monks of Dryburgh, who
retained it as a vicarage till the Reformation. Sub-
ordinate to the church were 2 chapels — one at Redslie,
in the detached part of the parish, and one, dedicated
to St Leonard, at the extreme S point of the main body.
Beside the latter stood a hospital dedicated to the same
saint. The chief antiquities, besides Thirlestane Castle,
are various tumuli, several Caledonian and Pictish
camps, and some remains of circular stone huts, dis-
covered in 1872, and supposed to be the relics of a
Caledonian town. Various fragments of swords, bones,
flint-arrow heads, etc., have been discovered.

Lauder was the birthplace of Sir John Maitland, Lord
Thirlestane, who in the reign of James VI. was lord
privy seal, secretary of state, and chancellor of Scotland.
The Rev. James Guthrie, first Scottish martyr after the
Reformation, was minister for a short time here.

Lauderdale, an ancient district of Berwickshire, the
western one of the three into which the county was
divided. In geographical distribution, and agricultural
properties, Berwickshire is all strictly divisible into
simply the Lammermuirs and the Merse ; the upper and
the lower parts of Lauderdale belonging respectively to
these just as distinctly as any other part of the county.
The limits of Lauderdale, as regards the usage of calling
it a distinct district, cannot be defined, and must pro-
bably be understood as including simply the basin of
Leader Water and its tributaries, so far as the basin is
in Berwickshire. Even anciently the limits appear to
have been very difl"erent in successive periods, and to
have marked fluctuations both in the kind and in the
extent of the civil jurisdiction within them. Maps of
Lauderdale, Merse, and Lammermuir were made by
Timothy Pont in the reign of Charles I., and inserted
in Blaeu's Atlas Scoiice. The author of the Caledonia
— guided apparently by these maps — states the area of
Lauderdale to be 105 square miles, that of Lammermuir
to be 138|, and that of the Merse to be 202h. At the
abolition of herditary jurisdictions the Earl of Lauder-
dale received the same compensation for the regality of
Thirlstane as for the bailiery of Lauderdale— £500. For
a notice of the noble family to whom the district gives
title, see Thirlstane Castle.

Laurencekirk (formerly Conveth), a parish in Kin-
cardineshire, in Howe of the Mearns, is about 4 miles
in length and 3 in breadth, having an area of 5617
acres, of which 5 are water. Pop. (1755) 757, (1801)
1215, (1841) 1904, (1871) 2174, (1881) 2046. Boun-
darics— N and NE, Fordoun ; SE and S, Garvock ; SW
and W, Marykirk. The SE division forms a gentle
slope, intersected by several rivulets falling into the
Luther Water, which, entering from Fordoun, flows 3
miles SSW through the middle of the parish, and finds
its way into the North Esk after a course of 5 miles
through ]\Iarykirk. The other streams are Ganger's
Burn, dividing from Marykirk ; Burn of Leppie, on the
E, separating from Fordoun ; and Ducat Burn, in the
N, falling into the Luther.
Soil, Climate, c^c. —The height above sea-level varies

475

LAURENCEKIRK

from 150 to 400 feet, the maximum being attained at
the SW boundary, and the village standing at 250 feet.
Until nearly the close of the ISth century a part on
both sides of the Luther formed a morass. Through
the skill and enterprise of the agriculturist the marshy
grounds were by degrees converted into arable land, the
process being compfeted towards the middle of the 19th
century by the deepening and straightening of the
channel of the Luther. A^happy result of the improve-
ment is the absence of any trace in the district of ague,
to which the inhabitants were subject for centuries.
The ancient bog is now soil of a mossy description, and
the rest of the "land is mostly a clayey loam on red clay
subsoil resting on Old Ked sandstone. The reputation
of the parish for advancement in agriculture stands
high. There are several large faniis skilfully cultivated,
of which Bent of Haulkerton, by Mr W. Alexander,
may be speciallj'^ noted. The first covered court, with
loose feeding-boxes for cattle, introduced into Scotland
was on Spurriehillock, by Mr D. Dickson, who tenanted
that farm from 1838, and soon after entering set the
example which has since been rmiversally followed.

Trade, etc. — During the larger part of the 18th cen-
tury the people were dependent upon agiicultural labour.
Towards the close various attempts were made to pro-
cure other means of subsistence, chiefly at the instance
of Lord Gardenstone. A starch work was in operation
for a time ; quarries were opened, but found unremune-
rative ; and stocking-weavers were induced to settle,
who had soon to have recourse to other occupations.
The craft earliest developed and taking firmest hold was
handloom weaving. Referriug to this period, a statis-
tical account records that ' there was carried on an
extensive domestic manufacture of linen, which was
commonly known in the markets by the name of Alearus
linen ; and the spinning of the 3-aru and manufacturing
of the cloth afforded employment to manj^ hands in the
families both of tenants and of crofters.' By and by
weaving at home was practically discontinued, and pub-
lic weaving shops became the rule, one or two agencies
for distant weaving companies being established. About
the beginning of the centur)' a flax-spinning mill was
erected at Haulkerton, where there is evidence of a
Vaulk-mill having existed for at least a century before.
It employed from 16 to 20 people until the spring of
1835, when it was accidentally destroyed by fire. At
Blackiemuir there was a bleach-field until 1813, when it
was converted into a spinning-mill, to give employment
to about a score of people upon an average until its
discontinuance in 1842. Since then the only occupa-
tion in the rural part has been connected with agri-
culture.

Original Constitution. — The whole lands of the parish,
now called Laurencekirk, were separated in the 12th
century longitudinally into three nearly equal parts.
The district of Conveth (lands conveyed), which gave
its name to the parochial combination, formed the cen-
tral division. That including the lands N of Luther
Water was named Luthra, while the remaining division
consisted of lands included in the barony of Garuocis or
Garvock, and now composing the farms which adjoin
the parish of that name. A small portion, Blackiemuir
and Haddo, belonged at an earl)' date to the priory of
St Andrews ; various grants of the lands were made to
the abbey of Arbroath ; and the rest was composed
chiefly of royal lands. The western boundary is within
1 mile of the ancient castle of Kincardine, once a
favourite residence of the Scottish kings ; and old
charters show that the early destination of many of the
lands was the result of this proximity to the abode of
royalty.

Distinguished Families. — The proprietors have in-
cluded some of the most distinguished Scottish families ;
and it is remarkable that, with the exception of a few
acres, the whole lands are presently owned by repre-
sentatives of the families which held them in the 12tli
and 13th centuries. Tlie first whose name is found in
connection with the parish is a branch of the family of
Berkeley, whose name was changed to Barclay, and the
476

LAURENCEKIRK

most famous of whom in more recent times are the
apologist for the Quakers and his descendants the Bar-
clays of Urie. The Berkeleys are still represented in
the families of two of the heritors. Next in order of
time were the Falconers, whose name is first associated
with Luthra, and afterwards with the same lands under
the name of Haulkerton, which, as well as their family
name, indicates their early services to have been those
of falconers or hawkers to the king. The family was
ennobled by Charles L in 1647, the first Lord Falconer
being a lord of session and a devoted adherent of the
unfortunate monarch. The fifth Lord Falconer married
a daughter of the second Earl of Kiutore. His grand-
son succeeded to the title and estates of Kintore on the
death of the last Earl Marischal. A union was thus
formed of two families who had been long connected
with the parish, the Keiths-Marischal having in the
main line and in one of the branches been numbered for
several generations among its proprietors. The Earl of
Kintore is still the largest heritor. The Middletons were
landowners from a ver}'^ early period — first of Middleton
of Conveth, from which the family name was derived,
and afterwards of Kilnhill, which was disposed of in
1606 by the uncle of the famous Earl Middleton. Among
other families having landed interest in the parish may
be mentioned the Wisharts of Pittarrow (from whom
the martjT sprang), the Erasers (Thanes of Cowie), the
Lords Gray, Strachan of Thornton, Allardice of that
Ilk, Irvine of Drum, Stuart of Inchbreck, Livingstone
of Dunipace, Carnegie of Pittarrow, etc. The present
^proprietors are the Earl of Kintore, Mrs Pearson of
Johnston, Dr Johnston of Redmyre, and ]\Ir Crombie of
Thornton, who is owner of filill of Conveth.

Distinguished Natives, etc. — James Beattie, the author
of The Minstrel, was a native, having been born at
Borrowmuirhills in 1735. Many of the most beautiful
periods in his great work were due to impressions on
his mind when he was a boy at the parish school.
Thence he passed as a student to the University and
Marischal College, which he afterwards for many years
adorned as a professor. Catherine Falconer, the jnother
of Beattie's distinguished opponent, Hume the historian,
was a sister of the fifth Lord Falconer. Thomas Ruddi-
man, the celebrated grammarian and philologist, had
been five years teacher of the parish school when he
met Dr Pitcairne, by whose advice he went to Edin-
burgh. This was in 1700, though his most famous
work bears on the title-page, ' Rudiments of the Latin
Language. By Thomas Ruddiman, Keeper of the Advo-
cates' Library, and sometime Schoolmaster at Laurence-
Kirk in the Mearns. Isted. Edinburgh 1714.' Fifteen
editions of the Rudiments were published in the author's
lifetime ; and at his death ' he left this saleable treatise
as a productive income to his widow.'

Ecclesiastical. — The Church of Conveth was early
dedicated to St Lawrence, who suflered martyrdom
in 258, being burned to death on a gridiron. At an
early date it was a rectory under the Prior of St Andrews,
and down to the abolition of patronage the patrons of
the parish were the College of St Mary's. The church
was dedicated in 1244, and about 1275 the 'Kirk of
Cuneueth ' was rated at 30 marks. The first ordained
minister after the Reformation was Patrick Boncle, the
stipend being 100 pounds Scots. Of the thirteen parish
ministers who have succeeded him there may be noticed:
— Robert Douglas, of the house of Douglas, Earls of
Angus, who was settled prior to 1657, translated to
Hamilton 1665, and was afterwards Dean of Glasgow,
Bishop of Brechin 1682-84, and Bishop of Dunblane
1684-89. He was ejected at the Kevolution, and died in
1716. He was the ancestor of the Douglases of Brigton,
and of Sylvester Douglas, the distinguished lawyer, who
in 1800 was created an Irish peer, with the title of
Baron Glenbervie of Kincardine. Andrew Thomson,
minister, 1727-59, to whom Dr Beattie was greatly
indebted in his earlier years. Dr George Cook, 1795-
1829, the distinguished historian of the Church, and
one of its leaders for many years prior to the Disrup-
tion. He died in 1845. The present church was built

LAUEENCEKmS

in 1804 and enlarged in 1819, but is still insufficient
in size. In the churchyard are some interesting old
tombstones, several with inscriptions by Dr Beattie.
TLe living is returned at £40-1, including manse, valued
at £30, and glebe, etc. , valued at £40. The number of
communicants is 738. Episcopacy was very strong in
the parish duiing the whole of the 18th century. The
incumbent at the Revolution, "William Dunbar, a keen
Episcopalian, was superseded in 1693 (a successor being
appointed in 1699), but not deposed until 1716. There
is notice in 1726 of an Episcopal church, which was
burned by the soldiers of the Duke of Cumberland in
1745. The congregation afterwards worshipped under
successive ministers, first at Laurencekirk, then at ilill
of Haulkerton, and subsequently at East Eedmyre.
John Strachan, afterwards Bishop of Brechin, was pastor
for many troublous years. Lord Gardenstone, thougli
a Presbyterian, built and endowed a chapel in Laurence-
kirk, which was opened in 1791. The first ineimibent
was Jonathan "Watson, who the following year was
elected Bishop of Dunkeld, and continued in both
charges imtil his death in 1808. The present church,
Early English Gothic, was bmlt in 1871. It is con-
stracted for 200 sittings, and has a spire 70 feet high.
The stipend is £40 sterling in money and 40 bolls of oat-
meal. There is a parsonage, with a glebe. Number of
communicants, 81. A small congregation in connection
with the Independents has a chapel which was built in
1842, the first incumbent being David iloir, a native.
The first Free church was a jtlain building in the street,
now named Farquhar Street. It has been converted
into a dweUing-house. The present handsome edifice
in High Street was built in 1857. Stipend, £208, with
manse in Garvock Street. Number of communic-ants,
163.

Schools. — The old Parish School was taught by a
succession of eminent teachers. The earliest recorded
was "William Dunbar, afterwards parish minister {vid.
sup. ). The most distinguished was Euddiman ; a part
of the building in which he officiated still remains.
James Milne, schoolmaster, 1720-61, was Dr Beattie's
teacher, and a good classical scholar. "William Pyper,
afterwards LKD. and Professor of Humanity in St
Andrews University, was parish teacher, 1815-17. The
Public and Infant Schools, erected by the School Board,
are commodious buildings, well adapted for their purpose.
There is a Ladies' School for boarders and day scholars,
and there is a school in connection with the Episcopal
congregation. The school-board has a joint interest in
Eedmyre School, close upon the E border of the parish.
The details regarding the various schools may thus be
tabulated : — Public and Infant Schools, accommodation
185 and 120, average attendance 202, grant £163, 3s.;
Episcopal School, 96, 75, £65, Os. 2d. ; Eedmyre School,
120, 76, £67, 17s.

The valuation of the parish (1856) £7512, (1883)
£12, 19s. 3d., -plus £2071 for railways, etc. The
increase, thougli partly due to the village, indicates a
verj- considerable rise in the agricultural value of the
parish. — Ord. Sur., shs. 66, 57, 1871-68.

See "W. E. Eraser's History of the Parish and Burgh
of Laurencekirk (Edinb. 1880).

Laurencekirk, the only village in the parish noticed
above, stretches for nearly a mile along the highway
between Edinburgh and Aberdeen, at a distance from
these cities of 93 and 30 miles respectively. Its distance
from Montrose and Brechin is resj>ectively 10 and 12
miles. The markets (cattle, grain, and hiring) are the
principal in the district; and adjoining the market
stance is a station of the Caledonian railway, at which
there is a large amormt of traffic. Besides the churches
referred to in the notice of the parish, the principal
buildings are the Town Hall and Masons' Lod^e (biiilt
in 1779), the St Lawrence.Hall (1866), Town and County
Bank (1854 ; established 1839), and North of Scotland
Bank (1872 ; established 1857). The principal streets
are High Street, extending the whole length of the
village ; Johnston Street, formed about 1820 ; and
Garvock Street, soon after. There are large and well-

LAW

replenished shops, at which all the varieties of mer-
chandise may be procured. The principal inns are the
Gardenstone Arms, Eoyal, "Western, and Crown Hotels ;
and there is the utmost facility for hiring in all its
branches. Pop. (1841) 1365, (1851) 1611, (1871) 1521,
(1881) 1454, of whom 790 were females. Of houses in
1881 there were 376 inhabited, 18 vacant, and 1 build-
ing. The houses generally jiresent a comfortable appear-
ance, and a number of them are handsome and com-
modious. The village was long noted for the manufacture
of snuff-boxes, the peculiarity of the 'Laurencekirk
snuff-box ' being a concealed hmge and wooden pin, the
invention about 1783 of Charles Stiven. The name of
Laurencekirk was first applied to a village on the
Haulkerton estate, which was erected a bnigh of barony
early in the 17th century. By and by it was amal-
gamated with the Kirkton of Conveth, and the two
extended to the present site on the estate of Johnston.
Under the fostering care of Lord Gardenstone the new
portion came to b« a considerable village, while the
original burgh of Haulkerton dwindled away, a few
relics only surviving till about 1820 or 1830. Under
the old name the village was erected into a boigh of
barony, under the administration of a bailie and 4
councillors, with all the usual j.rivileges. The charter
is dated 27 Aug. 1779.

Latuieston. See Govax.

Lanrieston, a village in Falkirk parish, Stirlingshire,
1\ mile E by S of Falkirk town, under which it has a
post and railway telegraph office. Adjoining the park
of Callander House, and commanding from its elevated
site a brilliant view of the Carse of Falkirk and the
Ochil Hills, it was feued out in 1756 by Francis Lord
Napier. At first it was called Langtown, next Mer-
chiston or New Merchiston, and afterwards Lawrence-
town, now abbreviated into Laurieston. It comprises a
central square and regularly intersecting streets, south-
ward and westward ; carries on weaving, nail-making,
etc. ; and has a public school and a Free — until 1876
Eeformed Presbyterian — church, built in 1788, and
containing 250 sittings. Pop. (1831; 1306, (1861) 1265,
(1871) 1310, (1881) 1452.— Ore?. Sur., sh. 31, 1867.

Latuieston, a village in Balmaghie parish, Kirkcud-
brightshire, 7 miles "WN'W of Castle-Douglas, under
which it has' a x>ost office. It was the meeting-place of
the war committee of the Kirkcudbrightshire Cove-
nanters.

Laurieston. See EcnrBrEGH.

Lauriston Castle, a mansion in Cramond parish,
Edinburghsliire, on an eminence, J mile NNW of
Davidson's Mains and 3| miles "WNW of Edinburgh-
Built in the latter j^art of the 16th century by Archi-
bald Napier, a younger brother of the inventor of
logarithms, it was enlarged in 1845, and has very beau-
tiful pleasure-grounds. It was the residence of the
famous financier, John Law (1671-1729), and of the
Eight Hon. Andrew Lord Eutherford (1791-1854) ; and
it now is the seat of Thomas Slacknight Crawfurd, Esq.
of Cartsbum (b. 1820), who holds 32 acres in Edinburgh-
shire, valued at £236 per annum. — Ord. Sur., sh. 32,
1857. See J. P. "Wood's History of Cramond (Edinb.
1794), and John Small's X^'astles and Mansions of the
Lothians (Edinb. 1883).

Lanriston Castle, a mansion in St Cyrus parish,
Kincardineshire, on the steep verge of a deep wooded
ravine, f mile N of Lauriston station on the Bervie
branch of the North British railway, this being 6| miles
NNE of Montrose. Comprising portions of a 10th
century castle, which in 1336 was captured by Edward
III., and which belonged to the Stralons from the 1.3th
century till 1695, it is mainly a spacious and elegant
mansion-house of the early p-art of the present century,
with groimds of singular beautv. Its owner, David
Scott Porteous, Esq. (b. 1852 ; sue. 1872), holds 3437
acres in the shire, valued at £5534 per annum. — Ord.
Sur., sh. 57, 1868.

Law, a mining village in Carluke p>arish, Lanarkshire,
with a station on the Caledonian railway, 6^ miles NW
of Carstairs, and 6 SE of Carfin by the Wishaw rail-

477

LAW CASTLE

way (1880). Of recent and rapid growth, it has an
Established mission church (1880), a Free church (1879),
and a public school. Pop. (1881) 1455. — Ord. Sur., sh.
23, 1865.

Law Castle, a stately ruined tower in West Kilbride
parish, Ayrshire, on an eminence overlooking West
Kilbride village, and commanding a delightful view of
the waters and screens of the Firth of Clyde.

Lawers, a hamlet in Kenmore parish, Perthshire, on
the NW side of Loch Tay, at the foot of Ben Lawers,
8 miles NE of Killin. It has an inn, a Free church,
and a public school ; and it maintains a ferry across
Loch Tay.— Orrf. Sur., sh. 47, 1869.

Lawers, a mansion in Monzievaird and Strowan
parish, Upper Strathearn, Perthshire, 2 miles ENE of
Comrie. A large two-story edifice, Italian in style,
with beautifully wooded grounds, it is the seat of David
Robertson Williamson, Esq. (b. 1830 ; sue. 1852), who
holds 29,494 acres in the shire, valued at £4543 per
annum. The estate, originally called Fordie, was long
possessed by a branch of the Campbells, who came from
the foot of Ben Lawers, and were ancestors of the Earls
of Loudoun. An ancient chapel, to the SW of the man-
sion, was their burial place down to the close of last
century.— Orr?. Sur., sh. 47, 1869.

Lawhead House, a modern mansion in Carnwath
parish, E Lanarkshire, 2J miles W of Auchengray sta-
tion. Its owner, David Souter-Robertson, Esq. (b.
1802), holds 4170 acres in Lanarkshire, 100 in Linlith-
gowshire, and 689 in Forfarshire, valued at £3057, £85,
and £1303 per annum.— Ord Sur., sh. 23, 1865.

Lawmuir House, a modern mansion in East Kilbride
parish, Lanarkshire, 2^ miles WSW of the town.

Laws, The, a mansion of i-ecent erection in Whitsome
parish, Berwickshire, 4 miles ESE of Duns. Its owner,
James Low, Esq., holds 679 acres in the shire, valued
at £1381 per ammm.— Ord. Sur., sh. 26, 1864.

Laws, The, an elegant modern mansion in Monifieth
parish, SE Forfarshire, 2 miles N by W of aionifielh
station. It stands on the southern slope of the Laws
(400 feet), a green conical hill, terminating a long ridge,
and crowned by vestiges of a vitrified fort 390 feet long
and 198 wide.— Ord. Sur., sh. 49, 1865.

Lawton, an estate, with a mansion and a hamlet, in
Cargill parish, Perthshire, 4 miles SW of Coupar-
Angus.

Laxdale, a village in Stornoway parish, Lewis island.
Outer Hebrides, Ross-shire, 1| mile N of the town.

Laxfirth, a bay on the E side of Tingwall parish,
Shetland. Opening at a point 5^ miles N by W of
Lerwick, it penetrates the land 2f south-south-westward,
and contracts from f mile to a point.

Laxford (Norse lax-fjord, ' salmon firth '), a stream
and a sea-loch of Eddrachillis parish, NW Sutherland.
The stream, issuing from Loch Stack (118 feet), runs 5^
miles west-north-westward to the head of the sea-loch ;
is crossed, 1^ mile above its mouth, by a large strong
bridge with a public road ; and enjoys high repute for
its salmon and sea-trout, ranking as the second best
salmon river in the county, and having been known to
yield as many as 2500 salmon and grilses in a single
year. It belongs to the Duke of Sutherland, and is
strictly preserved. The sea-loch, extending 3f miles
north-westward from the river's influx to the Minch at
a point 4^ miles N by E of Scourie, has a varying
breadth of ^ furlongs and 2| miles ; sends off, from
the middle of its N side. Loch Chathaidh, extending
2| miles east-north-eastward ; contains ten islets, of
which Eilean Ard rises to a height of 233 feet ; has
shores and sea-boards much broken by projecting rocky
heights ; is overlooked by magnificent Highland scenery ;
and affords excellent anchorage. In consequence of
its narrowness and intricacy, the loch is sometimes
called the Kyle of Laxford. —Ord Sur., shs. 107, 113,
1881-82.

Leadbum, a hamlet on the southern verge of Peni-
cuik parish, Edinljurghshire, contiguous to the Peebles-
shire boundary, 3 miles S of Penicuik town. It has an
inn, a post office, and a station ou the Peebles section
478

LEADHILLS

of the North British railway at the junction of the
branch to Dolphinton, 17^ miles S of Edinburgh. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 24, 1864.

Leader Water, a stream of W Berwickshire chiefly,
but partly also of NW Roxburghshire. Rising as
Kelphope Burn at an altitude of 1375 feet on the
southern slope of Lammer Law, just within Hadding-
tonshire, it thence runs 21| miles south-south-eastward
through or along the borders of Channelkirk, Lauder,
Lcgerwood, Melrose, Earlston, and Merton parishes,
till, after a total descent of 1160 feet, it falls into the
Tweed near Dktgrange, 2 miles E by N of Melrose
town. Its upper course, among the Lammermuirs, lies
through bleak hilly scenery ; its middle and lower
course through a pleasant vale, flanked with hills, swells,
and plains. Its current is generally brisk, and its
waters afford as good trout-fishing as any almost in
Scotland. Some of the scenes along its banks are cele-
brated in the old song of Leader Haughs and Yarrow ;
and it was on the hills surrounding its upper vale that
St Cuthbert, whilst tending his flock, beheld the vision
which led him to embrace the religious life. — Ord. Sur.,
shs. 33, 25, 1863-65.

Leadhills, a mining village in Crawford parish, S
Lanarkshire, on Glengonner Water, 1^ mile NNE of
AVanlockhead, 5 miles WSAV of El van foot station, 7
SSW of Abington, and 45 SSW of Edinburgh. The
highest village in Scotland — 1250 to 1412 feet above
sea-level — it is backed to the S by Wanlock Dod (1808
feet) and Lowther Hill (2377), and straggles down both
sides of its upland glen for nearly f mile. Since 1861
nearly every cottage has been either rebuilt or repaired ;
and their roofs of Welsh slate, their whitewashed walls,
and their pretty flower-borders have greatly improved
the aspect of the village. The landscape around is
bleak, but the neighbouring summits command magni-
ficent views from Cumberland to Ben Lomond, and
from the Pentlands to Ailsa Craig, Arran, and Jura.
Lead-mining in the vale of Glengonner Water is heard
of as long ago as 1239, and possibly was carried on in
the time of the Roman domination. The Romans, at
all events, had several camps in the neighbourhood,
and led two of their military roads to a junction within
the parish ; and, as they certainly worked lead-mines
somewhere in Great Britain, they are more likely to
have worked them here than in any other locality. The
ores, however, were little known till 1517, nor were
they begun to be vigorously and systematically worked
till the beginning of the 17th century ; but from then on
until now they have continued to be worked with little
interruption. In 1810 the Leadhill mines produced
about 1400 tons of lead, worth at the then current
price more than £45,000 ; but they afterwards so
declined that the annual output was only from 700
to 800 tons. Since 1861, however, they have much
revived under the Leadhills Mining Company, the
outputs of dressed lead in 1878 and 1881 being 1350 and
1805 tons, containing on an average from 6 to 12 oz. of
silver per ton. The ores of Leadhills, which belong to
the Earl of Hopetoun, since 1842 have been worked
with the aid of steam power and of improved smelting
apparatus ; and in 1868 some 2^ miles of underground
railway were formed at a cost of £7213. The gold-
mines of Crawford Muir are noticed under L.vnakk-
siiiRE (p. 462, col. ii. ). Leadhills has a post office
under Abington, with money order, savings' bank, and
telegraph departments, an hotel, a good water supply, a
public school, an excellent public library (1741), a GooJ
Templar lodge, a brass band, a volunteer corps, a curl-
ing club, and fairs on the second Friday of June anJ
the last Friday of October. The Ha', a shooting-lodge
of the Earl of Hopetoun, is a large old mansion ; one of
its two wings has served since 1736 as an Established
])lace of worship, and contains 500 sittings. The poet,
Allan Ramsay (1686-1758), was a son of the superin-
tendent of the mines, and at Leadhills passed the first
fifteen years of his life ; other natives were James
Taylor (1753-1825), who suggested the power of steam
in inland navigation, and James Martin, M.D. (1790-

LEALT

1875), who served as a surgeon in the Peninsular "War.
In the chnrchyard, too, is buried John Taylor (1637-
1770), who passed the last 37 years of his life at Gold
Scars, and worked as a miner for upwards of a century.
Leadhills was visited by Thomas Pennant (1769),
by Coleridge, Wordsworth, and his sister Dorothy
(1803), by Miss Martineau (1852), and by Dr John
JBrown (1865). The quoad sacra parish, constituted in
1867, is in the presbytery of Lanark and synod of Glas-
gow and Ayr ; its minister's stipend is £120. The
public school, with accommodation for 216 children,
had (1881) an average attendance of ISO, and a grant of
£166, 9s. Pop. of village (1769) about 1500, (1831)
1188, (1861) 842, (1871) 1033, (1881) 102-3, in 243
houses ; of q. s. parish (1881) 1081, of whom 7 were in
Crawfordjohn.— Ord Sur., sh. 15, 1864. See eight
articles, original or quoted, in vols. i. and iii. of Irving's
Uxa^er TFard of Lanarkshire (Glasg. 1864), pp. 18-22 of
Dorothy "Wordsworth's Tour in Scotland (Edinb. 1874);
•The Enterkin ' in John Brown's Leech and other
Papers (Edinb. 1882) ; and the Rev. Dr J. Moir
Porteous' God's Treasure House in Scotland (Lond.
1876).

Lealt, a village in the NW of the Isle of Skye,
Inverness-shire. Its post-town is Kilmuir, under
Portree.

Leam-a'-Chlamhair, Loch. See Kildonajt.

Learney, a large and handsome mansion in Kincardine
O'Neil parish, Aberdeenshire, standing 830 feet above
sea-level, on the eastern slope of Learney Hill (1150),

2 miles N by E of Torphins station. Accidentally
burned in 1838, and then rebuilt, it is the seat of Col.
Thomas Innes (b. 1814 ; sue. 1866), who holds 6923
acres in the shire, valued at £3264 per annum. — Ord.
Sur., sh. 76, 1874.

Leckie House, a mansion in Gargunnock parish,
Stirlingshire, 1 mile W by N of Gargunnock village.
Picturesquely seated on the E side of the glen of Leckie
Burn, it is a large and elegant edifice, built about 1836
in the English Baronial style, with beautiful pleasure-
grounds, and an exquisite view of the Strath of Mon-
teith. Its owner, Alastair Erskine Graham Moir, Esq.
(b. 1863 ; sue. 1864), holds 3450 acres in the shire,
valued at £3471 per annum. At old Leckie House,
which occupies a lower site on the opposite side of the
glen, Prince Charles Edward dined 13 Sept. 1745. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 39, 1869.

Leckmelm, a small estate in Lochbroom parish, N"W
Ross-shire, on the NE shore of salt-water Loch Broom,

3 miles SE of Ullapool. It has lately become famous for
certain so-called evictions. — Ord,. Sur., sh. 92, 1881.

Lecropt, a parish chiefly in Perthshire and partly in
Stirlingshire, containing the station and part of the
post-town of Bridge of Allam", 3 miles NNW of Stirling.
It is bounded N and NE by Dunblane, E by Logie, S
by Stirling, SW by Kincardine, and NW by Kilmadock.
Its utmost length, from N to S, is 3;^ miles ; its breadth,
from E to W, varies between 3J furlongs and 2^ miles ;
and its area is 3033 acres, of which 2306 belong to the
Perthshire section, whilst 2 are foreshore and 62^ water.
The Teith flows 2f miles south-eastward along the
Kincardine border to the Forth, which itself winds 1^
mile eastward along the boundary with Stirling, till it
is joined by Allan Water, for the last 2^ miles roughly
tracing the Logie boundary. A beautiful bank extends
through the middle of the parish, almost from end to
end, and commands magnificent prospects of the basins
of the Teith and Forth, and of the hills and grand
mountain summits which screen and encincture them.
The surface all S of that bank is rich carse land, without
a single stone or pebble, tastefully enclosed and highly
cultivated ; and the surface N of the bank rises with
gentle ascent to a height of 300 feet above sea-level, and
exhibits rich results of agricultural improvement. The
name Lecropt signifies ' the half of the iiill,' and alludes
to the configuration of the parochial surface. The pre-
dominant rock is Old Red sandstone ; and the soil of
the carse lands is strong argillaceous alluvium ; and of
the higher grounds is chiefly loam or humus. Nearly

LEE CASTLE

all the land is arable, or park, or under wood. In the
2d century a.d. Alauna, a town of the Damnonii, stood
at the junction of Allan AVater with the Forth — 'a
position which guarded what was for many centuries
the great entrance to Caledonia from the South.'
Numerous ancient Caledonian forts were formerly on
the heights of the Keir estate ; and one of them, called
the Fairy Knowe, of circular outline and 15 feet high,
still crowns an eminence near Sunnylaw farm. Within
Keir grounds is the beautiful old burying-ground of
Lecropt ; and near the parish church are court and
gallow hills of feudal date. Keir, noticed separately,
is the chief mansion ; and Sir John Stirling-Maxwell,
Bart., divides most of the parish with the Earl of Moray.
Lecropt is in the presbytery of Dunblane and synod of
Perth and Stirling ; the living is worth £237. The
parish church, near Bridge of Allan .station, is a hand-
some modern edifice, Gothic in style, and amply com-
modious ; and the public school, with accommodation
for 107 children, had (1881) an average attendance of
92, and a grant of £89, 4s. Valuation (1865) £3086,
Is. 2d., (1883) £6254, Is. 3d., of which £3247, Is. 9d.
was for the Perthshire section. Pop. (1801) 508, (1831)
443, (1861) 538, (1871) 535, (1881) 602, of whom 400
were in Stirlingshire and 335 of these in Bridge of
Allan.— Ort^. Sur., sh. 39, 1869.

Ledaig, a hamlet in Argyllshire, 7 miles S of Oban,
under which it has a post oflice.

Ledard, Falls of. See Ard.

Ledi. See Ben Lkdi.

Lednock, a troutful stream of Comrie parish, Perth-
shire, rising at an altitude of 1980 feet between Ruadh
Bheul (2237) and Creag Uigeach (2840), and hurrying
11 miles south-eastward (for the last 3| along the
Monzievaird and Strowan boundary) till, after a total
descent of nearly 1800 feet, it falls into the Earn at
Comrie village. It traverses a deep-cut, wooded glen,
and forms a number of romantic waterfalls, one of
which timibles into the Devil's Cauldron. — Ord. Sur.,
sh. 47, 1869.

Lee Castle, a mansion in Lanark parish, Lanarkshire,
near the left bank of Lee Bm-n, 3 miles NNW of Lanark
town. As renovated in the early part of the present cen-
tury after designs by Gillespie Graham, it is a castellated
two-story edifice, with a dozen round corner turrets and
a loftier square central tower, whose twelve windows,
three on each side, give light to the great Gothic hall
that replaces the open quadrangle of the old house.
The interior is rich in paintings, tapestry, and other
heirlooms, the portraits including Cromwell, Claver-
house, and Prince Charles Edward ; whilst the grounds
are beautiful \\'ith terraces and wooded slopes. One
oak, the 'Pease Tree,' supposed to be a survivor of the
great Caledonian Forest, is 68 feet high and 23^ in
girth at 6 feet from the ground — it thus being very
much thicker than any other oak in Scotland. Cromwell
and a party of his followers are said to have dined
within its hollow trunk, the entrance to which is yearly
growing smaller. The barony of Lee appears to have
been acquired towards the close of the 13th century by
AVilliam Loccard, whose son. Sir Simon, set out with
the Good Sir James Douglas to bear the Bruce's heart
in battle against the Saracens (1330), and in Spain,
from a captive's wife, obtained the ' Lee-Penny,' a heart-
shaped, dark-red jewel, now set in a shilling of Edward
I., with a silver chain and ring attached. Water
wherein one had dipped this amulet — the Talisman of
Sir Walter Scott's romance — was believed to cure every
ailment of man and beast, and so ' late as 1824 a gentle-
man arrived from Yorkshire and carried otf a quantity
of the medicated water, with the view of curing his
cattle, which had been bitten by a mad dog.' Among
the more eminent of Sir Simon's descendants were Sir
James Lockhart, Lord Lee (1596-1674) ; Sir William
Lockhart (1620-75) ; wlio married Cromwell's niece, and
who, says Hill Burton, was 'one of the Commonwealth's
best generals, and by far its best diplomatist;' Lord
President Sir George Lockhart of Carnwath (1630-89) ;
and George Lockhart (1673-1732), a zealous Jacobite.

479

LEEDS, NEW

Sir Simon Macdonald Lockhart, present and fifth Bart,
since 1S06 (b. 1849 ; sue. 1870), holds 31,556 acres in
the shire, valued at £21,919 per annum.— OrcZ. Sur.,
sh. 23, 1865.

Leeds, New, a village on the E border of Strichen
parish, Aberdeenshire, 4| miles N of Mintlaw. A
straggling place, with poor appearance, it has a U.P.
church,

Lee, Loch, a lake in Lochlee parish, N Forfarshire.
Lying at an altitude of 880 feet above sea-level, it has
an utmost length and breadth of 9 and 2^ furlongs ; has
boats on its waters ; and contains char and fine trout.
The Queen describes it as ' a wild but not large lake,
closed in by mountains, with a farm-house and a few
cottages at its edge.' The Water of Lee, rising at an
altitude of 2650 feet, winds 6| miles east-by-southward
to its head, and from its foot proceeds l^ mile east-by-
northward till, at Invermark, it unites with the Water
of Mark to form the North EsK.— Ord Sur., shs. 65,
66. 1870-71.

Lee Pen. See Innerleithen.

Lees, a village in the NE of Delting parish, Shetland,
1 mile from Mossbank.

Lees, an estate, with a mansion, in Coldstream parish,
Berwickshh-e, on the left bank of the Tweed, in the
south-western vicinity of the town. Acquired by his
gi-eat-grandfather as heir of entail in 1770, it is now
the property of Sir John Marjoribanks, third Bart, since
1815 (b. 1830 ; sue. 1834), who holds 3332 acres in the
shire, valued at £6064 per annum. — Orel. Sur., sh. 26,
1864.

Leet Water, a rivulet of Merse district, Berwickshire,
rising at a spot 1 mile NNE of Whitsome church, and
230 feet above sea-level, and flowing 13| miles south-
south-westward and south-eastward through or along
the boundaries of Whitsome, Swinton, Eccles, and
Coldstream parishes, till, after a descent of 140 feet, it
falls into the Tweed, | mile S of Coldstream town. It
traverses the beautiful grounds of the Hirsel and Lees ;
has a slow and sluggish current ; and contains pike,
very large eels, and well-fed trout of from | lb. to 3 lbs.
in weight. Its waters are mostly preserved. — Orel. Sur. ,
sh. 26, 1864. See Sir Thomas Dick Lauder's Scottish
Fdvcrs (Edinb. 1874).

Leetown, a village in Errol parish, Perthshire.

Legbrannock. See Bothwell.

Legerwood, a hamlet and a parish of SW Berwick-
shire. The hamlet lies in the middle of the parish, 4
miles X by E of its station and post-town, Earlston.

The parish is bounded NW by Lauder, NE by West-
ruther, E by Gordon, SE and S by Earlston, and W by
Lauder (detached) and by Melrose in Koxburghshire.
Its utmost length, from N to S, is 5 miles ; its utmost
width, from E to W, is 4J miles ; and its area is 8817
acres, of which 27j are water. The drainage is partly
carried westward or south-westward to Leader Water,
wliich flows 3J miles south-by-eastward along all the
western boundary ; partly eastward by Eden Water,
whose principal head-stream, rising at a point 1 J mile
NNW of the church, winds 4 miles through the interior
and along the Gordon border. The surface is hilly,
sinking to 450 feet along the Leader, 575 along the
Eden, and rising to 923 at Legerwood Hill, 1070 at
Boon Hill. Sandstone, conglomerate, and greywacke
are the predominant rocks ; and the soils are various —
clayey, gravelly, or peaty. About 3600 acres are in
tillage ; 315 are under wood ; and the rest is mostly
pastoral or waste. Of three old peel towers — Corsbie,
Whitslaid, and Moriston — only the two first, noticed
separately, are still remaining in a ruinous condition,
the third having been demolished less than a century
since. William Calderwood (1628-1709) was minister
from 1655 till his death, but was ejected from 1662 till
1689 for nonconformity to the Acts of Glasgow. Three
proprietors hold each an annual value of more than
£500, and 3 of more than £100. Legerwood is in the
presbytery of Earlston and synod of Merse and Teviot-
dale ; the living is worth £412. The parish church,
which down to the Reformation was held by the Abbey
480

LEITH

of Paisley, is an old building, repaired in 1717 and
1804, and containing 300 sittings. A public school,
with accommodation for 103 children, had (1881) an
average attendance of 78, and a grant of £52, 7s.
Valuation (1865) £6920, 19s. 3d., (1882) £8362, lis. 8d.
Pop. (1801) 495, (1841) 571, (1861) 599, (1871) 525, (1881)
549.— Orf?. Sur., sh. 25, 1865.

Leith (anc. Let or Invcrlet), the sixth largest town in
Scotland, a seaport, a police and parliamentary burgh,
and seat of manufactures, is situated in Edinburghshire,
and stands on the Water of Leith at the point where it
falls into the Firth of Forth. Between Leith — which lies
1^ mile N from the centre of Edinburgh, of which it is
the port — and the capital communication is maintained
by means of a double line of tramways, which traverses
the long main thoroughfare called Leith Walk — partly
in Leith and partly in Edinburgh — and by two lines of
railways, the North British and the Caledonian. The
former of these, 3| miles long, approaches the town
from the E ; while the latter, 5^ miles long, opened
in 1879, approaches it from the W. A railway line, 2J
miles long, connects South Leith with Portobello.
These lines furnish easy communication with all parts
of the country, and secure the speedy transmission of
goods landed at the port. At the foot of Leith Walk
the tramway lines diverge in three directions. One line
strikes off E, goes along Duke Street, and has its terminus
at Seafield ; another line goes by Constitution Street
to Bernard Street ; and the third goes to Newhaven
by Great Junction Street and Ferry Road. A short
line joins Commercial Street (North Leith) with Ferry
Road. An omnibus runs between Leith and Granton.
The Water of Leith, a small, sluggish stream, polluted
with sewage and the discharge from factories, divides
the town into two parts, called North Leith and South
Leith, though they might more strictly be called West
Leith and East Leith. The situation of Leith has been
very much against it owing to its extreme flatness,
which has made its drainage a diSicult problem, and
has retarded its growth as a port. In spite of its
disadvantages the town has had, on the whole, and
especially of late years, a prosperous career. Its appear-
ance has recently undergone great change, owing to
the improvement schemes that have been carried out.
Although these have swept away many buildings of
historical and antiquarian interest, still their removal
has been more than made up for by the improved
appearance of the town. New, well-built thoroughfares,
straight and broad, have replaced closes and alleys
and crooked, ill-paved streets ; and the health of the
to\vn, as a consequence, has become markedly better, so
that Leith appears to be, according to the Registrar-
General's report, one of the healthiest towns in Scot-
land.

The usual approach to Leith from Edinburgh is by
the broad street called Leith Walk, part of which
belongs to the seaport and part to the capital, the
division being where Pilrig Street strikes off it. Leith
Walk, or Leith Loan, owed its origin to Sir Alexander
Leslie, commander of the Scottish forces in 1650, when
Cromwell led his army into Scotland. To protect his
troops, Leslie threw up a sti'oug breastwork of earth,
and this in later days became the chief line of com-
munication between Edinburgh and Leith, as the Long
Walls between Athens and Piraeus. Public conve3'ances
ran between Edinburgh and its seaport as early as 1678.
At the beginning of this century it was usual to spend
\h hours on the journey from the High Street of Edin-
burgh to the Shore, Leith, a distance which a tramway-
car easily traverses in 20 minutes. Many interesting
recollections have gathered about the 'Walk.' At
Shrubhill, where the extensive stabling of the tramway
company now is, once stood a gibbet, upon which not
uncommonly tliere might be seen the body of some
criminal hanging in chains. Leith Walk was freciuented
for many j-cars by second-hand bookstalls, and ' sliows,'
and shooting-alleys, but these have now all but dis-
appeared, owing to the rapid spread of new buildings.
Besides these, on either side, stretched open spaces,

LEITH

LEITH

used as nursery and market-gardens, and they also are
all but covered over with blocks of houses. At the
point where Leith Walk ends, four streets. Great
Junction Street on the W, Constitution Street and
Duke Street on the E, and Kirkgate in the centre,
traverse the greater part of South Leith. Great
Junction Street and Constitution Street, along with
Bernard Street and the "Water of Leith, form the bound-
aries of that part of the town which chiefly deserves
the name of 'Old Leith.' It consists of a net-work
of alleys, lanes, courts, and closes, with some narrow
streets, and the Kirkgate and the Shore for its principal
thoroughfares. The Kirkgate — 367 yards long and 17
yards broad — is one of the oldest streets of Leith, and
still contains some ancient houses. Three streets strike
off it — viz., St Giles Street, St Andrews Street, and
the Tolbooth Wynd. This last, 183 yards long, gives
access to the Shore, and is next to the Kirkgate in
point of age, and at one time was only second to it in
importance. All the traffic to and from the harbour
passed along it, and although that must have been
small in comparison with the traffic of to-day, still it
must have been quite enough to tax its narrow breadth.
The Shore stretches S from the foot of Tolbooth Wjmd
along the right bank of the "Water of Leith, and presents
a single line of houses, some of which bear the marks of
a considerable age. It is by far the most picturesque of
the streets of Leith, and indeed, but for the familiar
names upon the shops and warehouses, might well be
mistaken for the C[uay-side street of some old French
town. The Shore is continued in a westerly direction
by the Coalhill, Sheriff Brae, Mill Lane, all of which
have the same characteristics as the other streets of the
Old Town— narrowness, dirtiness, dinginess. Of the
streets mentioned above as forming the boundaries of
this district. Constitution Street, 838 yards long, dates
from the early part of the 19th century, runs parallel
with the Kirkgate, but stretches farther eastward.
Great Junction Street, 667 j'ards in length, is broad
enough to allow of the immense traffic that passes along
it going on without interruption. Sti'iking off at the
foot of Leith "Walk, it extends NYv'" to the "Water of
Leith, which it crosses by a bridge, and enters North
Leith under the name of North Junction Street. The
construction of Constitution Street and Great Junction
Street must have tended in no slight degree to relieve the
pressure of traffic once wont to pass over the Kirkgate
and Tolbooth "Wynd. Bernard Street, the third of the
modern streets mentioned above, is like the other two,
spacious and handsome. It contains some fine buildings,
and in it is the terminus of one of the tramway lines.
Between South Leith and North Leith there is com-
munication by means of seven bridges, three of which
cross the "Water of Leith at the foot of Jimction Road,
Tolbooth "Wynd, and Bernard Street. That at the
foot of Tolbooth Wynd had a predecessor, which was
built by Robert Ballantj-ne, abbot of Holyrood, in
1493. It consisted of 'three stonern arches,' and its
substantial nature is proved by the time it lasted.
Some portions of the piers still remain. The bridge
which crosses at Bernard Street leads directly into
Commercial Street, part of which was built on land
reclaimed from the sea. Near it are the Wet and
"Victoria docks, and in it is the Leith terminus of the
North British railway, and a short way beyond it that
of the Caledonian railway, in Lindsay Road. Com-
mercial Street, the main thoroughfare of North Leith,
is a very busy street, owing to its proximity to the
docks. Of the other streets of North Leith, some are
creditably built, as North Junction Street, North Fort
Street, Albany Street, Lindsay Place ; but the majority
do not rise above the level of the ordinary seaport
street. Some of them are able to show here and there
a house of earlier date than any of those arovmd it, but
none of its streets have the same ancient characteristics
that distinguish many of the streets of South Leith.
Perhaps this may be so far explained by the fact that
the harbour made the latter, and the docks the former —
and the harbour is the older of the two. The Links of

North Leith no longer exist, but those of South Leith
still furnish an open space, deservedly valued by the
townspeople.

An improvement scheme, first planned in 1877, may
be fitly mentioned here. Although it has had several
predecessors, one of which was devised as far back as
1818, yet, on account of its magnitude and thoroughness,
the scheme of 1877 deserves special notice. By it, the
part of the town to be improved, which is generally
speaking that described above as 'Old Leith,' was
divided into five districts, to be taken up in succession.
The Leith Improvement Scheme Confirmation Act,
1880, provides chiefly for the construction of a new
street to begin at the Leith Walk end of Great Junction
Street, cut at right angles Yardheads, Giles Street, St
Andrew Street, and end at Tolbooth Wynd. The con-
sti'uction of this street will require the removal of many
closes, lanes, courts, and will therefore materially assist
to open up the part of the town through which it is
intended to pass. In 1883 work was begun on the first
portion, between Great Junction Street and Yardheads,
which required the removal of 81 dwelling-houses, with
405 inhabitants. Before the scheme is fidly carried out,
nearly 700 houses, which had, in March 1883, 2150 in-
habitants, though able to contain a very much larger
population, will have to be taken down. The parlia-
mentary estimate for the scheme was £98,000. It was
calculated that £46,000 would be made from the sale of
feus, etc., which would leave a sum of £52,000 to be
found by the ratepayers. In 1881 the Public Works
Loan Commissioners lent £70,000 to carry out the
scheme, a sum which, though large in itself, fell short
by £28,000 of the amount required. It is reckoned
that an assessment of threepence per £ will be needed
to cover the ratepaj^ers' share of the expense, though
it was estimated at first that an assessment of twopence
per £ for 30 years would be sufficient. When this
scheme has been carried out it will have removed many
of the always decreasing number of the antiquities of
Leith. The local authority, however, has very wisely
and properly made it a condition with those engaged in
the work that all sculptured stones, etc., found whUe
the houses are being taken down, shall be handed over
to the town for preservation.

The public buildings of Leith are such as one would
expect to find in a busy seaport town. Many of them
are very fine, and all are more or less connected with
the trade and commerce of the town and port. The
Exchange Buildings stand at the Bernard Street end of
Constitution Street, were erected at a cost of £16,000,
and contain an assembly room and a large public news-
room. Assemblies, however, are of rare occurrence now
at Leith. This building presents a long facade, three
stories high, with an Ionic portico of four pillars in the
centre. The Corn Exchange, in Baltic Street, was built
in 1860-62 at a cost of £7000. It is in the Roman style
of architecture, and has a corn-hall 110 feet long by 70
feet broad and an octagonal tower. The Court House
or Town Hall, situated at the point where Coustitution
Street cuts Charlotte Street, cost £3300, and was erected
in 1827. From its position it faces both streets. On
the Coustitution Street side it is adorned with an Ionic
front, and on the Charlotte Street side with a Doric
porch. Both as regards size and finish, the Court
House is finer than its small cost would lead one to
suppose. There is accommodation in it for the sheriff
court, the police court, and the police establishment.
The Custom House was erected at the North Leith end
of the lower drawbridge, near the harbour and docks,
in 1812. It cost £12,000, and is a fine large building
in the Grecian style. An approach, which was not in
the original plan,' was afterwards added for the sake of
convenience. It consists of two short flights of steps,
which lead up, one on each side, to a platform, from
which another single flight of broad, shallow steps leads
up to the entrance of the building. By way of orna-
ment it has a representation of the royal arms in the
tympanum, and is further adorned by fine pillars in
its front. Trinity House, in Kirkgate, was erected in

481

LEITH

1816 at a cost of £2500. Tlie architecture is Grecian.
It replaced another Trinity House built in 1555, and
used as a seamen's hospital. From time immemorial
the mariners and shipmasters of Leith were accustomed
to receive from all vessels belonging to the port, and
from all Scottish vessels visiting it, certain dues called
•prime gilt ' or ' primo gilt.' The money thus acquired
was emplo3-ed in assisting poor sailors. About the
middle of the 15th century a legal right to levy ' prime
gilt ' was obtained, and it was directed that the money
thus raised should be used in maintaining a hospital for
' poor, old, infirm, and weak mariners. ' In 1797 the asso-
ciation was legally constituted by a charter, and office-
bearers were appointed. Its character has since been
considerably modified. ' Prime gilt ' was abolished in
1862, so that the association is now dependent upon the
income it derives from certain properties in Leith, said
to amount to about £2000 a year. This money is dis-
bursed in small pensions to old members and their
widows. The chief duty of the board now is the im-
portant one of licensing pilots. In the hall, in which
their annual dinner takes place, there are some very
fine paintings and interesting models of ships. The
chief pictures are a portrait of Mary of Guise by Myteus,
a portrait of Admiral Duncan by Raeburn, and David
Scott's well-known picture of Vasco da Gama passing
the Cape of Good Hope. Among the models are those
of two or three line-of-battle ships and that of the
vessel in which Mary of Guise is said to have come to
Scotland. The floor of the hall is beautifully polished,
and the mouldings upon the ceiling, which represent
anchors, cables, etc., form an appropriate and unique
design, which was specially made for the Trinity
House. Leith Fort was built in 1779 to defend the
harbour, when both it and the town were threatened
by the ships of Paul Jones, the well-known privateer.
At first merely a battery of nine guns, it afterwards
became a large military barracks and the headquarters
of the royal artillery in Scotland. It lies ^ mile W of
the Custom House, and overlooks the shore. Other
public buildings worthy of notice are the markets, occu-
pying the site of the old Custom House and Excise Office
in Tolbooth Wynd, and erected in 1818, partly by
voluntary contributions and partly by a loan of £2000
from the Merchant Company ; the Slaughter-House in
Salamander Street, built in 1862 at a cost of £4000,
and embracing a central building and two wings ; and
the new post office, situated at the corner of Constitu-
tion Street and Mitchell Street, and erected in 1875 in
the Italian style.

In the town of Leith are 19 places of worship, divided
among 10 denominations. The Established Church of
Scotland, the Free and United Presbyterian Churches,
have each 4, and the Episcopal, Roman Catholic, Inde-
pendent, Baptist, Evangelical Union, "Wesleyan Metho-
dist, and Scandinavian Lutheran have each 1. North
Leith parish church, built on rising-ground at the W
end of the towm, and situated in Madeira Street, had
its foundation laid in March 1814, and was finished in
1826. Designed by W. Burn, it is oblong in form and
of a Grecian style of architecture. The front is adorned
by a portico of four Ionic pillars, and is surmounted by
a tower of three stages, of which the two first are four-
sided, while the third, which is eight-sided, is further
heightened by a spire built upon it. The building cost
£12,000, and has accommodation for 1700 persons. In
1881 it was reseated and renovated at an outlay of
£1100. In 1880 an organ, with 33 stops, which cost
£750, was introduced. This church supplanted the old
parish church of St Ninian, which had sunk in 1883
to being a drysalter's store, after having served as a
place of worship for more than 220 years. The buildinp-
stands close beside the river, distinguished by its i)altry
spire from the surrounding works and houses, and
having near it the old churchyard, now quite uncared
for and desolate in the extreme. It contains, however,
some curious tombstones, notably a few with nautical
designs upon them. In it the poet NicoU was buried
la 1837. St Mary's, the parish church of South Leith,
482

LEITH

with its surrounding graveyard, occupies a stretch of
land lying between Kirkgate and Constitution Street.
It was erected into a parish in 1607, after having served
as a chapel to the Virgin Mary, with altars to various
saints, from the beginning of the 15th century. At
first it was cruciform and of great size ; but, owing to
the rough usage which it underwent from time to time
at the hands of the English, its extent has been some-
what curtailed, so that it now consists of central and
side aisles, which are ancient, and of a western front
and tower, which are modern. In 1848 it was restored,
after designs furnished by Thomas Hamilton, which
included the construction of a square tower, adorned at
the top with a balustrade elaborately carved. St Mary's
is seated for 1350 persons. David Lindsay, who bap-
tized Charles I., and John Logan, known as a poet, but
better known from his having assumed the authorship
of certain pieces of poetry composed by IMichael Bruce,
' the Scottish Kirk White, ' his friend and fellow student,
were ministers of St Mary's. The body of John Home,
the author of Douglas, lies buried in the churchyard,
interred Sept. 1808. St Thomas's quoad sacra parish
church, on the Sheriff" Brae, was erected in 1843 at the
expense of Sir John Gladstone of Fasque. The church,
with the manse and a school and asylum, was designed
by John Henderson of Edinburgh, and erected at a cost
of £10,000. The four buildings form a harmonious
whole, the style of their architecture being Gothic. St
Thomas's served first as a chapel of ease, but was after-
wards constituted a quoad sacra parish church by the
General Assembly in 1840 and by the court of teinds in
1847. St John's quoad sacra parish church is situated
on the E side of Constitution Street, adjoining the town
hall. It was originally a large plain building, but it
was afterwards adorned by the addition of a fine front
in Early Gothic style and of a massive tower. The
tower consists of two stages, the first of which is four-
sided with pinnacles at the corners, and the second is
eight-sided, surmounted by a balustrade and pinnacles.
On either side of the main building are wings, built in
a style which harmonises with the rest of the edifice,
and used for schoolrooms. St John's was a Free church
from the Disruption (1843) to 1867, when it reverted to
the Church of Scotland. It was constituted a quoad
sacra parish church in 1869, and was the church of
which Dr Colquhoun was ordained pastor in 1781.

North Leith Free church stands at the north-western
extremity of the town, in the Ferry Road ; was built in
1858-59, after designs by Campbell Douglas ; and is in
the German Pointed style. A congregational hall was
added to it in 1876. South Leith Free church is situated
at the foot of Easter Road. Built in the Early English
style, it is a handsome edifice, consisting of nave, aisles,
transepts, and tower. The spire has yet to be added.
It cost £4000, and was opened on 22 Dec. 1881. St
Ninian's Free church, situated in Dock Street, is a con-
spicuous building in the Early Gothic style, with a
handsome doorway and main window, flanked by two
octagonal towers. It was reopened in October 1880,
after alterations which cost £300. Free St John's
church, in Charlotte Street, was built in 1870-71 in the
Gothic style, after designs by John Patterson of Edin-
burgh. It cost nearly £7500. It is surmounted by a
tower 130 feet high. North Leith U.P. church, in
Coburg Street, was built in 1819, and has accommoda-
tion for 1100 persons. It has a Gothic front, with
central pediment and balustrades and towers. The Rev.
Dr Harper was minister of North Leith U. P. church in
1819. Junction Street U.P. church was built in 1825 ;
has a Roman front with Doric pillars ; and is able to
contain 1230 persons. Kirkgate U.P. church is a plain,
unadorned building. It was erected in 1775, and has
1025 sittings. St Andrews Place U.P. church, situated
near the Links, was erected in 1826; has accommoda-
tion for 1254 persons ; and has for chief architectural
feature a tetrastyle Ionic portico. St James's Episcopal
church, in Constitution Street, is a handsome building,
erected in 1862-63 in the Pointed style of the 13th
century after designs by the late Sir Gilbert Scott. It

LEITH

cost originally £6000 ; but, owing to the extensive
interior decorations it underwent in 1869 at the hands
of E. F. Clarke of London, its cost altogether amounted
to nearly £14,000. New vestries were added in 1881.
It has a nave of five bays, N and S aisles, a chancel
with semicircular apse, and a tower and spire 180 feet
high, which contain a chime of bells. The chancel is
adorned with figures of the saints in richly foliated
niches. The present church of St James, which is able to
hold 620 persons, supplanted a much smaller and plainer
building of the same name, erected in 1805 at a cost of
£1610, and associated with the name of the well-known
Dr Michael Russell. The Roman Catholic chapel —
the chapel of Maris Stella — -stands in Constitution
Street ; was erected in 1850 ; and is a cruciform,
high-roofed edifice, in coarse Early Gothic. The Inde-
pendent chapel, in Constitution Street, was built in
1826 at a cost of £2000 ; has 520 sittings ; and has its
front, which is Roman in style, adorned with Ionic
pilasters. The Evangelical Union church is situated in
Duke Street ; was erected about 1866 ; and is a fine
building in the Pointed style. The Baptist cliurch
stands in Madeira Street ; was erected in 1875 ; and
contains 300 sittings. The church is formed of corru-
gated iron. The Wesleyan Methodist church is in
Great Junction Street, and the Scandinavian Lutheran
church, erected in 1869, in North Junction Street.

The following are the schools under the management
of the Leith Burgh School Board : —

Name.

Accommo-
dation.

No. on
Roll.

Teachers.

Grant.

North Fort Street, .

1040

1130

20

£832

Lome Street,

706

869

18

604

Links Place,

776

773

13

492

Bonnington Road,

799

880

13

421

Yardheads,

358

400

9

289

St Thomas's,

362

385

8

192

Duncan Place, .

309

392

8

242

Victoria, Newhaven, .

247

280

6

173

High School,

584

175

9

nil.

The schools erected by the school board are, as a rule,
well adapted for their purpose, lighting, heating, and
ventilation being carefully attended to. The Yardheads
school is a two-storied, square building, built at a cost
of £3807 on a site which cost £1250. One of its class-
rooms has accommodation for 126 children. The Lome
Street school cost £7000, and is a handsome T-shaped
building. The Leith High School, erected in 1806,
and situated on the SW corner of the Links, is a
building of some size, oblong in form, two stories in
height, and ornamented by a small cupola which rises
from the centre of its front. The burgh school board
consists of a chairman and ten members.

The landward school board of South Leith has one
school, with accommodation for 144 boj^s and 144 girls.
It is conducted by a headmaster, two assistants, and a
sewing-mistress, and has an average attendance of about
200. In 1882, the grant earned amounted to £101.
There is a residence for the head-master. The school
contains 2 school-rooms, each 33 feet long, 20 broad,
and 144 high ; 2 class-rooms, each 20 feet long, 14|
broad, and 14 high, and 2 galleries, each 20 feet in
length, 14^ in breadth, and 14 in height. Two schools
conducted on the Madras system of education were
founded by Dr Bell, and are managed by trustees, con-
sisting of the provost, magistrates, and town council
for the time being. The first of these schools was
built in 1839 in Junction Street. It is a large oblong
building, with a full length statue of its founder in
the centre. It has accommodation for 900 children,
and is conducted by 3 male and 7 female teachers. The
second is in South Fort Street. The Roman Catholic
School — Maris Stella — situated in Constitution Street,
is conducted by the Sisters, and has an average attend-
ance of 396 children. The Episcopal School — St James
■ — in Great Junction Street, has accommodation for 236
children in the mixed school, and 143 iu the infant

LEITH

department, and is conducted by a master, a mistress,
an assistant mistress, and 4 pupil teachers. The
Ragged Industrial School Association maintains 100
boys and 50 girls. There are also a number of private
schools.

Leith is able to boast as large a number of institutions
as any town of the same size and character. The Leith
Hospital, Humane Society and Casualty Hospital are
in Mill Lane, Sheriff Brae, and together occupy a build-
ing of considerable extent, erectecl in 1850. MTien its
foundation was being dug, a large deposit of sea-shells
was uncovered, which is held to prove that at one time
the sea must have flowed over the spot. The Humane
Society is provided with the most approved apparatus
for resuscitating the apparently drowned. In 1840, Mr
(afterwai'ds Sir John) Gladstone of Fasc^ue, father of the
premier, erected a church (St Thomas's), manse, school-
house, and asylum on the Sheriff Brae. The buildings,
which are in the Gothic style of architecture, form a
harmonious whole. The asylum, used as a hospital for
women with incurable diseases, is fitted up for 10
patients, and has a revenue of £300 a year. The John
Watt Hospital was opened in 1862 for the reception of
men and women in destitute circumstances, who are
maintained there. It stands at the SW corner of the
Leith Links. John Scougall, a Leith merchant, left
£2000, the interest of which is paid to daughters of
Leith merchants who have not been shop-keepers. A
preference is given to Episcopalians. The poorhouse,
on the N side of Junction Street, is a long three-
storied house with dormer windows. The Seafield
Baths, on the links, were built in 1813 by a joint-
stock company at a cost of £8000, but they have not
been successful, and at present (1883) they are closed.
The institute and public library of Leith, with 5000
volumes, is in Tolbooth Wynd. The Leith Chamber
of Commerce, in Constitution Street, instituted in 1840
and incorporated in 1852, is presided over by a chair-
man, deputy-chairman, and six directors. The Ship-
masters' and Officers' Protection Association, founded
in 1877, and generally known as the Scottish Ship-
masters' Association, is presided over by an Hon.
President and council of shipowners, ship-captains,
etc. Its main object is to promote good maritime legis-
lation, to render navigation safer b}' lighting and mark-
ing the Scottish coast, to provide for the widows of
members, etc. Among charitable institutions may be
mentioned — the Association for Improving the Condition
of the Poor, the Shipwrecked Fishermen and Mariners'
Royal Benevolent Society, the Leith Ragged Industrial
School, the Leith Female Society, the Society for the
Relief of the Destitute Sick, etc., etc. The Leith
Sailors' Home was instituted about 1840, and conducted
in premises in Dock Street, which it occupied until 1881
when the building was required for offices by the Mer-
cantile Marine Board, and for class-rooms, etc., by the
Government Navigation School. It was resolved in
1882 to erect a new home ; and £9000, its estimated
cost, was soon subscribed. The Dock Commissioners
have granted a site at a nominal rent at the corner of
Tower Street and Tower Place, and the erection of the
Home will soon be proceeded with. Its foundation-
stone will be laid with Masonic honours in Sept. 1883.
Built iu the old Scottish Baronial style, it will not
only be a great boon to sailors visiting the port, but
will also be among the finest of Leith's public buildings.
It will have accommodation for 56 seamen, 9 officers,
and 50 shipwrecked seamen — for the last in dormitories
in the attics. There will be a restaurant, dining-room,
recreation-room, reading-room, officers' sitting-room,
bath-rooms, lavatories, and many other conveniences,
which will make it one of the most perfectly equipped
buildings of the kind in the Kingdom. The Leitli mer-
chants' club has premises in Bernard Street. The
Thistle Golf Club and the Seafield Golf Club were formed
in 1815 and 1878 respectively. Other societies are —
The Young Men's Christian Association, the Sabbath
School Society (1818), the Religious Tract Society.
There are also numerous clubs for cricket, foot-ball,

483

LEITH

swimming, and other sports. The First Midlothian
Bifle Volunteers, Leith, represent the volunteer move-
ment in the seaport. Leith has 3 Masonic Lodges, as
well as representatives of the associations of Good Tem-
plars, Foresters, Free Gardeners, and societies of a like
nature. Leith races, once of considerable importance
and high repute, have been suppressed.

The following banks have offices at Leith : — the Royal,
British Linen Co. , Commercial, National, Union, Clydes-
dale, and Bank of Scotland. The office of the National
Bank of Scotland branch occupies the premises in
which the business of the Leith Bank was once carried
on. It is a building of small size, witli a dome and a
projection from the N front, with four Ionic columns.
It is in Bernard Street, as are also the offices of the
Clj'desdale, British Linen Co. , and Union Banks. The
Union Bank, designed by James Simpson, and built in
1871 in the Italian style, is a handsome building of three
stories, with a telling-room 34 feet long and 32 broad.
There are also numerous agencies for fire,life, accident,
and marine insurance, among the last being the Union
Marine Insurance Co., the Reliance Marine Insurance
Co., and the Standard Marine Insurance Co. Three
newspapers are published in Leith — the Leith Burghs
Pilot, Liberal (1864), on Saturday ; the Leith Herald,
neutral (1846), on Saturday ; and the Leith Commercial
Lists (1813), daily. The chief hotels are the Baltic in
Commercial Street, and the Commercial in Sandport
Street, while on the Shore are some curious old inns
with quite a foreign aspect. The following countries
and states have consuls at Leith : — Belgium, Brazil,
Chili, Denmark, France, Germany, Greece, Italy, the
Netherlands, Portugal, Russia, Spain, Sweden and
Norway, Turkey, and Uruguay. The consuls of Den-
mark and of Norway and Sweden act as consuls-general
for Scotland.

In making the original harbour of Leith, man had
but little part, and Nature's share was far from being
able to render it of great use. It consisted at first
solely of the channel worn out by the Water of Leith as
it flowed to meet the sea across the broad beach called
Leith Sands. This channel was tidal, and in conse-
quence, though sufficiently deep at high water, depended
entirely at ebb upon the small volume of fresh water
that ran down it to the Firth. According to the season
of the year or the state of the weather, the river was
either in flood or dried up, and this, combined with
the influence of winds and tides, was able to alter the
local conditions of the channel, and to raise or lower
the bar that stretched across its mouth. The first
serious attempt to resist the action of the elements was
made in 1544 by the Earl of Hertford, who, while lidd-
ing Leith, ordered a wooden pier to be constructed. On
his departure for England he ordered its destruction,
so that it might not benefit his enemies. Early in
the 17th century another pier, resting on strong pillars,
was erected, and its substantial nature is shown by its
lasting for fully 240 years. Between 1720-30 there
were constructed a stone pier which was joined to the
wooden pier so as to extend it by 300 feet, and a small
dock on the W side of the river's mouth. In 1777 a
short i)ier, afterwards known as the Custom House
Quay, was built. These attempts helped in some
degree to bring about the result after which their
makers were striving. Through them Leith became a
X)ort more accessible to shipping than it had been before ;
but they were totally inadequate to make the approach
to it at all a safe or certain matter. Sometimes the bar
was impassable for days, and many found themselves in
the position of Lord Erskine, who, an.^ious on one
occasion to return to London by sea, was detained on
account of the ' smack ' in which he was to sail being
unable to cross the bar. This detention gave rise to the
well-known impromptu in which, after blessing the Bar
of Edinburgh, he banned 'the shallow bar of Leith.'

In spite of these attempts to improve it, the accom-
modation of Leith harbour continued to be miserably
inadecjuate, and tlie increase of trade only emphasised
its deficiencies. In 1709 John Renuie, a distinguished
484

LEITH

civil engineer, was employed to examine the ground
and furnish designs for docks and extended piers,
suited to the growing requirements of trade. The gist
of his report was, that the only way to remove the
bar would be to build a pier right across the sands on
the E side of the channel, which is more exposed than
the W side. Rennie anticipated that the construction
of such a pier would give an increased depth of water,
amounting to 3 or 4 feet, and later operations have
shown conclusively the soundness and accuracy of his
judgment. Although this part of Rennie's scheme was
not taken up at the time, another part was forthwith
carried into efl'ect. It had been so far anticipated by the
plans of another engineer, Robert Whitworth, who in
1788 designed a wet dock of 7 acres, to be made near the
Sherifi" Brae, at a cost of £30,000. Rennie's design was
chosen, and the construction of two wet docks, covering
together an area of lOJ acres, and able to contain 150
vessels of the class generally visiting the port, was
commenced. Parliament authorised the magistrates to
borrow £160,000 to carry it out ; and the building of
the eastern wet dock was begun in 1800 and finished in
1806. The construction of the western dock was begun
in 1810 and ended in 1817. In addition to the two wet
docks, which together cost £175,086, the design also
allowed for the building of three graving-docks at a cost
of £18,198, and of drawbridges at a cost of £11,281.
Together with the sum of £80,543 paid for the ground,
the total cost was £285,108, to which very large amount
of money, £8000, spent in building a new bridge over the
Water of Leith must be added. The measurements of
the docks are : — each of the wet docks, 250 yards long by
100 broad ; each of the graving-docks, 136 feet long by
45 wide at the bottom, and 150 long by 70 wide at the
top. The entrance is 36 feet wide. A strong retaining
wall, in the building of which not less than 250,000
cubic feet of ashlar was employed, protects them from
the sea. These docks are situated in North Leith, and
lie to the N of Commercial Street. They are still
known as the Wet Docks, the western basin being also
sometimes called the Queen's Dock.

Immense as M'as the improvement eff"ected by the
carrying out of Rennie's scheme in some of its parts, still
the construction of the wet docks only so far realised his
wise and far-sighted plans. The erection of a new pier
has been mentioned ; but beside that Rennie had in
view the construction of another basin, 500 j-ards long
by 100 wide, to stretch westward from those already
built to Leith Fort, with an opening to the sea on that
side. The want of funds prevented more being done
than had already been accomplished. To complete his
design, the expenditure of £322,000 at least would have
been necessary. The disbursement of so large a sum
was absolutely impossible, owing to the expense already
incurred in connection with the docks made, and the
high rate of charges ujion goods and shipping re(iuired
to meet the interest upon the money tlaat had been
borrowed to build them. In 1824, however, a further
attempt was made to improve Leith as a sea-port,
by extending the eastern pier about 1500 feet, which
gave it a total length of 2550 feet, by making a western
pier and breakwater, and by using part of the Queen's
Dock as a naval store-yard. The first pile was driven
in on 15 Aug. 1826 by the Lord Provost of Edinburgh,
and the initiation of this new work of improvement was
attended with considerable pomp, which shows that its
importance was fully realised. These improvements,
the outcome of surveys and designs by Mr AV. Chapman
of Newcastle, were completed at a cost of £240,000
borrowed from Government on the security of the dock
dues.

In 1838-39, two eminent London engineers, Messrs
Walker and Cubbitt, were sent down by the Lords of
the Treasury to undertake the task of providing their
lordshij)S ' with such a plan as will secure to the port
of Leith the additional accommodation re(iuired by its
shipping and commercial interests, including the pro-
vision of a low- water i)ier.' Tlie engineers were not to
exceed the sum of £125,000 in their suggested improve-

LEITH

ments. Their mission was barren of results. They
came and saw, but went away in disagreement as to
what should be done. Mr Cubbitt sent in one report,
and Mr AValker sent in two, which, like the one of Mr
Cubbitt, came to nothing.

The report of the Tidal Harbours' Commission, pub-
lished in 1848, is of great intei'est as regards Leith,
whose claims, position, and possibilities are very fully
treated of. It is impossible to give the report at full
length, but what follows contains its chief points in
regard to Leith. It begins by admitting the difficulties
encountered by the town from its position, and goes on to
say that these, while great, were not insuperable, but
were of such a nature that they might be overcome ' by
management, skilful engineerrng, and perseverance. ' It
next calls attention to what is, above all things, the most
pressing need of the port, a deep-water entrance to the
harbour channel, a want which had been recognised by
all the engineers that had had to do with the harbour of
Leith. It farther states that, in spite of all that had
been done for it and spent upon it, its accommodation
was very deficient, and its lack of all the conveniences
common in ports, frequented by large steamers, notorious
to all. As a consequence, vessels had been driven
away from it, and the revenue diminished by £5000,
owing to the loss of their traffic. The anomalous nature
of the shores-dues, the foul state of the water in the
harbour, the danger of getting strained, which fine
steamers were exposed to by lying on the ground when
the tide was low, are successively taken up and discussed.
The above is hardly more than the bare outline of the
commissioners' report ; it is, however, full enough to in-
dicate their views upon what was, and what ought to have
been, the state of the port of Leith, and is a very heavy
indictment against those who, at different times, had had
the ordering of its circumstances. Blunders had been
made, short-sighted plans had been adopted, regulations
had been allowed to remain in force after they were
quite out of date, and had become simply vexatious.
A bill was passed in parliament in 1848 to revise the
schedule of rates, and to allow the execution of Mr
Kendall's scheme of improvements. The main features
of his scheme were the extension by 1000 feet of the
E pier, the conversion of the AV breakwater into a
pier, and its extension by 1750 feet. It further pro-
vided for the stronger construction of the latter, so that
it might be able to bear the weight of a line of railway
upon it, and for the formation of a low-water landing-
place at the extremity of the W pier. This last was
to be 350 feet long, well sheltered, furnished with all
needful accommodation, and so arranged that it should
never have less than 9 feet of water around it, even at
the lowest tides. This scheme also had reference to the
channel, which was to be deepened so as to have a depth
of 20 feet at high water of neap tides, and 25 feet at
high water of spring tides. These alterations and
improvements referred solely to the approach to the
docks. But the bill also allowed for the construction
of a new dock at a cost of £56,000, over and above the
different works just specified. The act of parliament
for this new dock was passed in 1847, and building
operations were forthwith begun by Mr Barrj', who had
been successful in obtaining the contract. In 1851 the
Victoria Dock, as it Avas called, was opened, the first
vessel to enter it being the Royal Victoria, a steamer
trading between Leith and London. This dock lies
immediately to the N of the Wet Docks, has an area of
nearly 42 acres, is 700 feet long by 300 broad, has
wharfage 1900 feet in length and 100 in breadth, has
a depth of 21 feet at the lowest neap tide, and an
entrance which is 60 feet broad. In 1851 the E pier
was 4550 feet in length, and the W pier was 3103^ feet
in length, and in 1855 the various works of alteration
and improvement became available for the trade and
business of the port. Upon them a sum of £135,000
was expended, of which £56,000 were spent in con-
structing the dock, and £79,000 in extending the piers,
deepening the channel, etc. This dock ,M-hich still con-
tinues one of, if not the busiest of the Leith docks, is

LEITH

chiefly occupied by the steamers of the London and
Edinburgh, and of the Leith, Hull, and Hamburg
steamship companies, the latter of which belong to the
well-known firm of James Currie & Company.

In 1858 the Prince of AVales graving-dock was opened.
It is 370 feet long by 60 broad at its entrance. It is
worthy of notice not only on account of its size, but
also because it was the first dock constructed on the
South Leith side of the Water of Leith. It is capable of
admitting vessels of a large tonnage.

The Victoria Dock helped materially to relieve the
pressure upon the old docks, but, in the course of a few
years, increase of trade made further extension an ab-
solute necessity. Nevertheless nearly ten years were
allowed to pass before any fresh undertaking was begim.
In 1862, Mr Eendall of London and Mr Robertson of
Leith, civil engineers, after having made a very careful
survey of the ground, proposed to construct new docks
which, with proper wharfage, etc., would require the
reclamation of some 84 acres of sand that had once
been the Leith race-course. The proposed docks were
in South Leith, and the site went by the name of the
East Sands. Its nearness to the half-tide level was
greatly in its favour. So were its broad expanse and
the comparatively small outlay required to reclaim it.
The accepted contract for the work of excavation, em-
banking, masonry — that furnished by Mr W. Scott —
amounted to the considerable sum of £189,285, which
was further increased by the addition of £35,215 for
cranes, sheds, etc. These two sums combined brought
the expense up to £224,500. Compared with the
Victoria Dock, the largest of the old basins, the size
of the new dock — the Albert, as it is named — becomes
apparent. It covers an area of lOf acres, is 1100
feet long and 450 broad. At high-water of spring
tides, there is in it a depth of water equal to 20 J feet,
and its quayage measures 3049 lineal feet. The Albert
Dock is approached from the W through an outer basin
of more than 2 acres in extent, and by means of a
lock 350 feet long and 60 broad. The wharfage round
the dock is very spacious, the sheds are most com-
modious, and the appliances for unloading are of the
most perfect description. Hydraulic cranes were fitted
up on its quays for the first time in Scotland, and
they have done more than anything else to hasten the
discharge and loading of cargoes. Like the other
docks, it is well supplied with water hydrants, and is
lighted with gas and with the electric light. The Albert
Dock was formally opened on the 21 Aug. 1869. It con-
tains the berthage of Messrs Gibson's fine fleet of con-
tinental traders. The latest addition to the docks of
Leith — the Edinburgh Dock — called after the Duke of
Edinburgh, b}^ whom it was christened and formally
opened on 26 July 1881, has advanced Leith to a high
position among the sea-ports of the Kingdom. Its ex-
tent, the completeness of its equipments, the broad
stretch of reclaimed ground around it, are the main
features of the Edinburgh Dock. It lies immediately to
the E of the Albert Dock, to which it is joined by a
channel 270 feet in length and 65 in breadth. A swing-
bridge, which weighs 400 tons, is worked by hydraulic
power, and cost £15,000, has been made over this
channel, and allows of easy communication with the N
side of the dock. The work of construction was begun
in 1874 by the building of a sea-wall, which stretches
from the E end of the Albert Dock to a point near the
place where the Seafield toll once stood. Like the dykes
of Holland, this wall is extremely strong, and every-
thing has been done to make it wave and weather proof.
With a breadth of 30 feet at the bottom and lOJ at the
top, it is built of dry rubble faced with ashlar, 2 feet
thick, and to a certain extent with Portland cement
concrete. Its solidity is further increased by the intro-
duction of puddled cla}% \ foot thick, on the landward
side, by the introduction of many tons of what are
known as 'quarry shivers,' and by the construction of
a defence upon the seaward side, which breaks the waves
before they reach the wall, and so diminishes their force.
This embankment was completed in FebruarvlS77. It

"485

LEITH

served to reclaim lOS acres of ground, out of wliicli the
dock was to be excavated. Digging was forthwith be-
gun. An army of 'navvies ' with two steam ' navvies,'
able together to do as much work as 80 men, and to dig
up 1100 tons of earth per day, immediately began opera-
tions, and rapid progress was made. The work went on
smoothly. Neither hindrance from water or from any
other cause was exjjerienced, and hence the magnitude
of the undertaking may be so far realised from the fact
that it took 4 years and 4 months successfully to accom-
plish it. The dock is 161 acres in extent ; the N and S
walls have each a length of 1500 feet ; the greatest
breadth is 750 feet, more by 50 than the greatest length
of the Victoria Dock. The W end, 500 feet in length and
750 in breadth, is entirely open to shipping, and affords
ample room for manceuvring even very large vessels. The
E end is occupied by what may be described as an arti-
ficial peninsula, which stretches out into the dock for
the length of 1000 feet, and has a uniform breadth of
250 feet. This peninsula has sheds all I'ound it, and
thus adds not a little to the accommodation. A splendid
graving-dock, 350 feet long by 48 wide at the bottom,
and 70 \\'ide at the top, occupies its centre. The stone
with which the walls of the Ediubm'gh Dock wei-e
built came from Craigmillar quarry, not far from the
capital. The masonry extends 35 feet from the top
to the bottom of the side. It has been estimated
that the total amount of masonry employed was not
less than 900,000 cubic feet, while the length of quay-
age measm-es fully 6775 feet. At high tide the water
in the dock is 27 feet deep. The S side is lined with
sheds, each of which is 196 feet long and 80 broad.
The coal export trade, which is engaged in on a large
scale at Leith, has been not a little aided by the erec-
tion of a powerful coal-hoist worked by hydraulic power,
and able to raise a railway truck full of coals into the
air, and then shoot its contents into the hold of the
vessel being loaded. When the work of reclamation
was effected, a larger space of ground was saved from
the sea than was required for the dock, and this addi-
tional ground — amomitiug to some 54 acres — was divided
between the North British and Caledonian Railway
Companies, who have filled it up, so as to make it of the
same height as the quays. The companies use it for
their goods traffic. The whole cost of the undertaking
was £400,000. The dock was opened in July 1881 by
H. R. H. the Duke of Edinburgh, who happened to be in
Scotch waters at the time in command of the Reserve
Squadron. The ceremony attracted a vast crowd of
people, and was performed with the usual formalities,
breaking the ribbon stretched across its entrance, etc.
The Duke of Edinburgh and a large company, including
representatives of the many interests of Leith, were on
board the Berlin, one of Messrs Currie's fine steamers.
As she glided through the approach, her bow snapped
the ribbon and allowed the Berlin to enter the dock.
Just as she was floating into it, the Duke of Edinburgh
said — ' I declare this dock to be open, and name it the
Edinburgh Dock. '

The docks of Leith, it has been said, are partly on
one side of the Water of Leith and partly on the other.
They are connected by a swing-bridge of great size.
With a weight of 750 tons, it cost £32,000, and has a
double line of railway in the centre for goods traffic and
space on either side for passenger traffic. It is constructed
of iron. The stretch of water parallel with the town,
and extending 2 miles or so out from the shore, is called
Leith Roads. It affords a safe and sheltered anchoriug-
gi-ound, especially from eastern gales, from which it
is defended by Inchkeith. Steamers and sailing vessels
can generally ride securely in them, either while waiting
for the tide to suit for entering the docks or for a change
of wind. Dming the European war an admiral's guard-
ship and several cruisers were stationed off Leith, and
in the Crimean war it was the winter station of some
of the vessels belonging to the Baltic fleet. A Martello
tower, built on the Black Rocks, a reef running out
into the Firth, stands nearly 500 yards to the E and 165
feet to the S of the E iiier-head. Erected by "overn-
486 ■^ °

LEITH

ment at a cost of £17,000 to defend Leith during the
European war, the tower is circular in form, strongly
built, and bomb-proof. It was the chief defence of the
town until 1878, when Inchkeith was fortified. (See
Inchkeith.) The long piers, the E of which has a
length of 1177 yards and the W of 1041 yards, are care-
fully lighted. At the point of the W pier there is a
fixed bright light, visible 10 miles off; and at the point
of the E pier a fixed green light. From the inner light-
house on the E pier a fixed red light is shown. When
there is 10 feet of water on the sill of the Victoria
Dock a green light is shown under the light on the W
pier-head, and when the dock gates are opened a red
light is shown in place of the green light. When the
gates of the Victoria Dock are open a red light is shown
on both of the Victoria Dock heads. In foggy weather
the fog-bell is sounded from the lighthouse at the end
of the W pier. During the day there are other signals
by which captains are informed when there is sufficient
water to allow their vessels to enter the docks.

For some distance above the various docks the Water
of Leith has been widened and deepened, and has a line
of wharfs on one side and the Shore on the other. Small
steamers, barges, and even large vessels, are able to pass
uj) and down at certain states of the tide, owing to the
bridges being so constructed that they can be raised or
let fall at pleasure. As the largest of the shipbuilding
yards of Leith is some way above the docks, it is very
necessary to keep the passage clear. In connection with
the docks should be mentioned the line of blank un-
ornamental buildings that stretches along Commercial
Street, and occupies the greater part of one side of it.
They are the bonded stores of Leith, and are of great
size. At the E end of Commercial Street the different
lines of railway, which cover the quays with an iron
network, converge in a point, and are carried over the
street to the North British railway station, now a shabby
building, though at one time it may have had some
claim to be regarded as ornamental. The Caledonian
railway station, at the W end of Commercial Street, is
a plain brick building, but is clean and neat, if not
pretentious.

The right of property over the harbour of Leith for-
merly belonged to the city of Edinburgh. This right
extended back as far as the reign of Robert the Bruce,
who in 1329 granted ' ane right of the harbour and
mills of Leith, with their appurtenances, to the city of
Edinburgh. ' The district referred to included the whole
shore, beach, sands, and links between the x^oiut known
as Seafield toll-bar on the E and that known as Wardie
Burn on the W. All the shore dues levied within these
limits, except a merk per ton, which helped to increase
the stipends of the city clerg)', passed into the coffers of
the capital. In the account of the various schemes
devised and carried out to improve the accommodation
of Leith, mention was made of the sums expended upon
new docks, improved machinery, etc. Previous to 1825
the magistrates and council of Edinburgh owed £25,000
to government and £240,000 to other parties; but in
that year government advanced £240,000 to enable
them to meet their obligations to private parties. Vari-
ous conditions had to be accepted before the advance was
made. Interest at the rate of 3 per cent, was to be paid,
and 2 per cent, was to go to a sinking fund ; part of
tlie W dock and shore around it was to be handed over
to the admiralty for its own use, and government was
to have a preferential claim over the entire dock and
harbour property, and a concurrent claim with other
creditors over the whole property of Edinburgh. In
1833 the city did become bankrupt, but by that time
£25,000 had been written off, leaving £240,000 still
due. Various negotiations were entered into, and at
last an arrangement was carried out, w-hich has been of
no little benefit to Leith. By an act of parliament,
passed in 1838, the petty customs of the town were
transferred from the city of Edinburgh to the town
council of Leith ; the merk charged on each ton was
abolished; the sum of £125,000 was allowed to be ex-
pended in improvements ; and the entire management

LEITH

of the docks and harbour was vested in a commission of
14 members. Three of these are elected by the town
council of Edinburgh, 2 by that of Leith, 1 each by the
Edinburgh Chamber of Commerce, the Leith Chamber
of Commerce, and the Edinburgh Merchant Company,
2 by the shipowners, and 4 by the ratepayers. The
following table will give some idea of the way in which
the prosperity of the port of Leith has grown and fluc-
tuated since it was placed in charge of the commissioners
just alluded to : —

Tear.

Revenue.

Expenditure.

1839, .

£17,057

£10,134

1845, .

23,520

24,170

1852, .

25,646

42,354

1858, .

33,164

20,797

1868, .

107,7&2

121,643

1875, .

74,4S4

79,449

1877, .

207,3s7

19>,716

1879, .

100,553

125,365

1880, .

135,910

121,156

1881, .

107,491

89,865

1882, .

96,264

99,399

Taking the revenue for 1882, we find it made up for the
most part of the following items : — Tonnage rates on
vessels, £31,900 ; rates on goods (inward and outward),
£41,838; rates and charges for using graving-docks,
£1558 ; crane rates, shed rates, and receipts for ballast,
£4706 ; rates for quay rails, £2140 ; feu-duties, rents,
etc., £7426; interest on monies in bank, £1127; inci-
dental revenue, £365 ; moneys borrowed on debenture
bonds, £5200. Calculated roughly, these separate items
amount to nearly £96,264. The three largest items of
expenditure were: — Ordinary expenditui'e, £32,941;
money spent on new works, £39,806 ; payments on
account of debt interest, £26,658. From 1871 to 1882
£140,700 have been repaid to the Public "Works Loan
Commissioners, which leaves £82,299 still owing. Dur-
ing the same period £40,000 were repaid to the Edin-
burgh Life Assurance Company. £268,223 are due to
the debenture holders. Latterly vessel dues have been
reduced 20 per cent., cargo dues 12| per cent., crane
dues in proportion, the object being to encourage vessels
to use the port, which the high rate of charges had
deterred them from doing.

The following statistics show how the shipping
registered at the port of Leith has grown since a
record was first kept : — In 1692 there were 29 vessels of
1702 tons; in 1740, 47 vessels of 2628 tons; in 1752, 68
%'essels of 6935 tons. In 1737 the tonnage was 14,150 ;
in 1792, 18,468 ; in 1808, 18,241 ; in 1826, 25,674 ; in
1844, 25,427.

Year.

Steamers.

Tonnage.

Sailing
Vessels.

Tonnage.

1854

28

3,946 i

181

24,357

1860

48

10,864

129

22,439

1863

75

21,805

136

23,087

1872

93

39,743

100

19,660

1875

105

47,075

91

16,513

1878

109

55,915

81

18,798

; 1880

117

64,181

71

16,069

1883

133

70,912

58

14,714

In Leith fishery district are 573 fishing-boats, handled
by 1673 men and boj-s. See Newh.wex.

As a sea-port, Leith depends very largely for its pro-
sperity upon its continental trade. One firm, with 24
steamers, whose tonnage amounts to 22,000, maintains
regular communication with Hamburg twice a week ;
with Christiansand, Copenhagen, Stettin, once a week ;
with Bremerhaven once a fortnight ; and with Danzic,
Konigsberg, etc., as required. Another company, with
a fleet of 8 steamers, whose united tonnage is 7150,
maintains communication with Amsterdam fortnightly ;
with Antwerp and Dunkirk weekly ; with Rotterdam
bi-weekly. Steamers sail twice a week to London, New-
castle, Aberdeen, Orkney and Shetland ; and once a
week to Hull. In 18S0 a line of steamers began to run

LEITH

between Leith and New York with cargoes of grain and
American produce. With the exception of the last, the
various steamers mentioned carry passengers as well as
goods, though mainly dependent upon the latter.
Other steamers, which are cargo -carrying only, ply
between Leith and the different ports on the Firth of
Forth and the northern sea-board generally. In the
summer, river steamers make regular trips to Aberdour,
Queensferry, Stirling, and daily excursions, sometimes
to Elie or North Berwick, St Andrews, etc.

The port of Leith in its custom house relations includes
the creeks of Dunbar, North Berwick, Aberlady, Cock-
enzie, Morrison's Haven, Fisherrow, Granton, Cramond,
Mhich lie between St Abb's Head and Cramond Water.
The amount of customs collected in 1864 was £431,610 ;
in 1876, £411,391; in 1877, £368,654; in 1878,
£343,477; in 1881, £566,312. The chief imports at
Leith are grain, hemp, hides, tallow, timber, sugar,
esparto grass, wine, wool, tobacco, flour, oU-cake,
guano, linseed, tinned meats, grass seeds, fruits. From
May 1881 to May 1882 331,727 qrs. wheat, 283,521 qrs.
barley, 104,190 qrs. oats, 375,215 bags flour, 75,311
loads of wood, 9590 tons guano were imported. In 1882
1,329,210 cwts. of unrefined and 210,275 cwts. of refined
sugar, 10,180 tons of oil-cake, 445,105 gallons of wine,
349,511 gallons of spirits, 251,530 bushels of various
fruits were imported. The total value of exports from
Leith in 1882 was £3,076,891, which shows an increase
more than eight-fold within the last thirty years, the
total value in 1851 having been £389,293. The total is
mainly made up of £125,382 for coals, £314,961 for
cotton goods, £96,050 for fish, £23,816 for unwrought
leather, £17,500 for wrought leather, £175,826 for linen
yarn, £15,595 for jute 5'arn, £173,819 for linen ia the
piece, £25,937 for thread, etc., £143,685 for jute manu-
factures, £184,037 for machinery, £427,554 for iron,
£24,163 for steel, £55,011 for spirits, £252,603 for sugar,
and £581,223 for articles not enumerated. From May
1881 to May 1882 260,987 tons of coals and 147,033
tons of pig-iron were exported. The following table
gives the aggregate tonnage of vessels that cleared and
entered from and to foreign and colonial ports and
coastwise in cargoes and ballast : —

Year.

SAttlXG

Vessels.

Steamers.

Entered.
Tonnage.

Cleared.
Tonnage.

Entered.
Tonnage.

Cleared.

Tonnage.

1S76
1878
1879
1880
1881
1882

342,166
309,751
250,343
261,407
262,871
237,347

353,546
312,621
252,062
263,927
259,143
225,465

593,095
652,624
595,258
678,793
711,282
751,331

596,318
654,427
593,751
681,303
712,056
731,301

In 1882 2762 British ves.sels of 781,335 tons, and 906
foreign vessels of 207,343 tons, entered the port of
Leith ; and in the same year 2666 British vessels of
749,359 tons, and 884 fore'ign vessels of 207,907 tons,
cleared from it.

Among the industries of Leith, ship-building takes a
high place. In 1883 there were 7 ship-building yards,
some of which were largelj' engaged in repairing and
refitting vessels. In 1882 13 iron steam vessels, with
a tonnage of 16,250, and 1 sailing vessel of 1032 tons,
were launched at Leith. In addition to these, 4 yachts
of 1699 tons were built in 1882, and 15 wooden steam
trawlers between 1877-82. The first line-of-battle ship,
the Fury, ever built in Scotland was launched at Leith.

Glass was at one time largely manufactured at Leith,
the industry having been introduced, it is said, by
English settlers in the time of Cromwell. Seven large
cones on the shore of South Leith were emploj'ed in
making various kinds of glass goods, In 1790 these
were all in operation, but since that time glass-making
has gradually decUned at Leith, until it has, in 1883,
all but died out. Within a few years, bottles, glass-
globes, chandeliers, have been made on a small scale.
In 1883, 9 saw-mills, 5 flour and meal mills, 2 sugar re-

487

LEITH

fineries, 17 enscineer-works, 3 breweries, 6 distilleries,
are at work in Leith. One flour-mill, the largest in
Scotland, and one of the largest in the Kingdom, grinds
6000 sacks of flour per week, and employs more than
200 men, though most of the work is done by machinery ;
another mill, built in 1S63, employs fully 40 hands, and
has 24 pairs of stones at work ; a third covers If acres,
was built in 1S55 ; and a fourth, built in 1824, covers 4
acres, has 29 stones, stores for 40,000 quarters of wheat,
and employs over 160 hands. Sugar refining was carried
on at Leith as earlv as ISOO, and, in 1874, on so large a
scale by one firm that it was able to turn out 300 tons
per week of refined sugar. One sugar refinery is almost
entirely carried on by the labour of Swedes. The
largest of the engineer-works employs more than 400
hands, and is mainly engaged in fitting vessels with
boilers, etc., and in repairing marine machinery. The
most extensive of the Leith distilleries was erected in
1852, covers 1^ acres, has not fewer than 40 vats for
British wines "and cordials able to hold from 5000 to
1200 gallons each, employs in the warehouse department
about 40 women, and paid, a few years ago, to the ex-
chequer the large sum of £300,000. Other industries
are cement-making in 14 works, colour making in 7,
leather manufaetme in 8, preserved meat making in 1,
rope, twine, and sail making in 12, coopering in 12,
lime-juice making in 4. One firm, engaged in tanning
and currj-ing leather, has more than 330 pits, and can
tm-n out 300 hides weekly. At one cooperage buoys for
the Northern Lights Commissioners, as well as casks,
are made, and, at another, 900 casks can be easily com-
pleted in a week by the employes who number about
100. Leith has 1 of the 3 or 4 works in Scotland in
which the weaving of brass ^vire cloth is engaged in ;
the industry having been introduced in 1835, and prose-
cuted since that time with great success. The most ex-
tensive roperie work in Leith employs fully 1000 hands,
turns out weekly, on an average, 30 tons of cordage,
and yearly 2.005,000 yards of sailcloth. It was estab-
lished in 1750. Leith has also not fewer than 8
chemical works, besides other establishments in which
various industries are carried on to a greater or less de-
gree. There are in the best streets of the town many
fine shops of all kinds, whose appearance, and the goods
exhibited, would not disgrace even the better class
streets of the capital.

Leith was constituted a parliamentary burgh by
William lY. in 1833. Before that date its government
had been very inefiicient, owing to its consisting of a
number of separate jurisdictions, all of which were
Tinder the power of Edinburgh. The Parliamentary
Reform Bill (1832), the Burgh Reform Bill (1833),
and the Act of 1838, which transferred to and vested
in the provost and magistrates of Leith the common
good of the b\irgh, embracing the customs, rates,
imposts, market dues, freed Leith from this bond-
age. The municipal government consists of a pro-
vost (who is also admiral of Leith), 4 bailies, and 10
councillors. Among the town ofiicials, who are 16 in
number, are a town-clerk, treasurer, analyst, oflicer of

health, assessor,
inspectorofclean-
ing, firemaster,
registrar, etc.
Admiral and
bailie courts are
held by the pro-
vost and bailies,
and there is a
society of solici-
tors for practis-
ing before these
courts. A sheriff-
court for the
Leith district is
held in the sheriff-
court room, Con-

15G3

Seal of Leith.

stitution Street, every Tuesday while the court sits ; and
a sheriff small debt court is held ou Wednesday during
4SS

LEITH

session. The dean of guild court is presided over by
the provost and magistrates for the time being, a com-
mitte attends to the licensing of public-houses, and the
provost, magistrates, and town councillors act as the
Leith road trustees. The Edinburgh and District
Water Trust is composed of members elected from the
town council of the capital, Leith, and Portobello, and
all are sujiplied from the same reservoirs. The Water
of Leith Sewerage Commission is drawn partly from the
town council of Edinburgh, and partly from that of
Leith. For municipal purposes Leith is divided into
5 wards. The police force numbers 92, including 32
ofiicers and constables who form the dock division.
The annual value of real property (including railwaj's
and tramways) in the burgh amounted, in 1882-83, to
£377,211 (£278,245 in 1874-75) ; the corporation revenue
for 1882 was £555. The municipal constituency num-
bers 10,245, which includes 1560 females. Leith unites
with Musselburgh and Portobello (the Leith burghs) iu
returning one member to parliament (always a Liberal
since 1837). The parliamentary constituency is 8685.
Pop. of parliamentary burgh (1821) 26,000, (1831)
25,862, (1841) 26,026, (1851) 30,919, (1861) 33,628,
(1871) 44,280, (1881) 58,196, of whom 28,474 were
males. The parliamentary burgh consists of parts of
the parishes of Cramond (44), North Leith (17,883),
St Cuthbert's (10,436), South Leith (29,833). In 1881
the population of the town was 59,485 (inclusive of
shipping). Houses inhabited 12,069, uninhabited 951,
building 266.

Until comparatively recently, Leith was able to make
a very fair show of old houses and relics of the past, but
the improvement schemes, carried out from time to
time, though in themselves verj' great boons to the town,
have gone far to remove all that was of an antiquarian
nature. So that, notwithstanding the great advantages
that have arisen from the opening up of the town, and
the removal of narrow closes and noisome courts, it
is impossible not to feel a shade of regret that, along
with felt nuisances, much that was interesting and
picturesque has been swept awa}^ One of the old
houses of Leith, of which a small part is still extant,
is that which once was known as the mansion of Lord
Balmerino. It stands at the corner of Coatfield Lane
in the Kirkgate, was built for the Earl of Carrick in
1631, and passed into the possession of Lord Balmerino
in 1643. The house, which had originally four floors,
was of considerable size, oblong square in shape, and
had two approaches — one from Kii-kgate through a low,
narrow archway, and the other on the E side through a
garden. This garden must in by-gone days have been
one of the chief attractions which the property pre-
sented, owing to its size and the seclusion it afforded.
The architecture of the house was marked by traces of
debased Gothic. Charles II. is said to have passed a
night in it in 1650. It is impossible now to say in what
house, or even in what part of Leith, Mary of Lorraine,
the Queen Regent, lived during her sojourn in the sea-
port. Diverse houses in different localities lay claim to the
honour of having sheltered her. Very likely it no longer
exists, still as many houses compete for the distinction of
having been the residence of Mary of Lorraine and of
Oliver Cromwell as cities of Greece competed for having
been the birthplace of Homer. A building at the head
of Queen Street, formerly Paunch Market, which was de-
molished in 1849, has been considered by some authorities
the most likely of these claimants. It certainly was
distinguished from its neighbours by the finish of its
different parts. In the oak panellings of its doors, the
carving of its window frames, the ornamentation of its
front, it was not difficult to discern that it must have
been at one time the residence of some person of rank.
It has been asserted further that the change of the
name of the street from Paunch Market to Queen Street
is an indication that it must once have contained the
abode of roj'alty. niis is plausible enough, but against
it must be put the direct evidence of William Maitland,
the historian and antiquarian, who wrote about the
middle of the 18th century. He says, 'Mary of

LEITH

Lorraine, having chosen Leith for her residence, erected
a house at the corner of Quality Wjiid, in the Rotten
Row, but the same being taken down and rebuilt, the
Scottish arms, which were in front thereof, are erected
in the wall of a house opposite thereto, on the southern
side.' The stone, upon which the arms of Guise,
quartered with those of Scotland, had been carved, has
fortunately been preserved, though it has had several
narrow escapes from destruction. The Queen-regent is
also credited with the erection on the Coalhill of a
building in which her privy council might meet. UntU
within a few years this house was distinguished by
the superior style of ornamentation upon its walls,
cornices, ceilings, visible even through the obscuring
dirt that had accumulated upon them. It is supposed
to have been used successively by Mary of Lorraine,
the Earl of Lennox, the Earl of Mar, but the latest
improvement scheme, when carried out, will require its
removal. Perhaps along with it will perish the name
of Parliament Square, which arose from its nearness to
the place of deliberation on the Coalhill. The King's
"Work, a building probably 100 feet square, erected on
ground between Bernard Street and Broad Wynd, was
originally intended for a royal arsenal, with warehouses
and dwellings for the permanent officials. In 1575 it
was used as a convalescent hospital for those recovering
from the plague. It was gifted by King James VI. to
Bernard Lindsay, his groom of the chamber, after whom
Bernard Street is called. He was permitted to keep four
taverns in it. Nothing now remains of this building,
once considered one of Leith's chief adornments, and
the ground it occupied is covered with irregularly built
houses of later date. To the E of the King's "Work
was the district called Little London, measuring 90
feet long by 75 broad. It has been said that its name
was derived from some fancied likeness to the great
metropolis, but such an explanation is hardly sufficient.
It is far more likely that it got its name from the fact
that in it were quartered the English soldiery, sent to
aid the Earl of Morton in 1571, when he was tr'S'ing to
reduce Edinburgh Castle. The Old Tolbooth of Leith
was finished in 1565, when Mary Queen of Scots was on
the throne. It was taken down in 1819, and rebuilt on
the same site. The building presented no particular
architectural features. King James's Hospital was
founded by the kirk-session of South Leith in 1614,
confirmed by a charter of King James YL, and endowed
with lands and tenements in Leith and Xewhaven.
The building stood on the E side of the Kirkgate, and
was able to accommodate 12 poor women, each of whom
had a separate apartment, enjoyed a small pension,
and was provided with fuel and candles. The site of
the hospital is marked by a stone, with the Scottish
arms carved upon it, let into the wall of South Leith
chiirchyard. Cromwell, it is known, lived for a time
in Leith, but the same difficulty exists in regard to his
place of abode as did in regard to that of the Queen-
regent. There almost appears to have been some affinity
between them, to judge at least from the statement of
a writer who, after considerable search, discovered
that a majority of the houses which claimed to have
received the one, claimed to have received the other
also. The Old Grammar School of Leith stood in Kirk-
gate, and was an institution of some fame, since the
post of teacfcer of Latin in it was much coveted. The
Kantore or Kintore House, whose name is said to be
derived from the Flemish word Kantoor (place of busi-
ness), was the customary prison-house in which those
were confined who had incurred the censure of the
Church. Timberbush, another old locality of Leith,
lying N of Queen Street, derives its name from the
French word bourse (exchange). In Timberbush all
the wood that came into Leith was stored, and doubt-
less it got its name from the occurrence in it of wood
sales. The Preceptory of St Anthony was situated at
the SW comer of St Anthony's Wynd. It was founded
in 1435 by Eobert Logan of Restalrig. A Catholic
writer speaks of it as 'most magnificent,' and regrets
that, owing to the way in which ' the madness of the
68

LEITH

heretics had raged,' no trace of it now remains. It was
mainly supported by the contributions of seamen, who
had escaped from the perils of the deep by the inter%-en-
tion of the saint, or sought his protection before they
went to sea. To the E of the Trinity House, at the
head of Combe's Close, stands one of the oldest houses
in Leith still extant, though probably soon to perish.
It is remarkable for the way in which the ground has
risen in and about it. In one passage, through which
men were originally able to walk upright, the level has
so greatly changed that it is only possible to traverse it
crawling or stoopiing very low. The house which was
inhabited by the parents of John Home, author of the
tragedy of Douglo.s, etc., stood in Quality Street. It
was pulled down some years ago to make way for new
buildings. Before leaving the anriqniries of Leith,
some of the curious texts upon stones may be men-
tioned. Many are extremely quaint, and the majority
are interesting as the sole relics of the houses to
which they formerly belonged. In the S wall of the
Trinity House is a stone with the following inscription,
' In the name of the Lord, ye Masteris and Marineris
Bylis this Hous to ye pour; Anno Domini, 1551.' In
the E wing is one with this inscription, 'Pervia,
Yirtnti, Sidera, Terra, Mare.' It has also representa-
tions of various nautical instruments. Over a doorway
in Burgess Close is 'Nisi Dns (dominus) Frustra (1573)';
over the doorway of the first Episcopal chapel, ' Thay
ar welcum heir that God dois love and feir, 1590.' The
tablet of the Association of Porters, over the entrance to
the Old Sugar House Close, is extremely interesting,
since it shows pictorially how the wine ships that came
into Leith were unloaded by a treadmill apparatus, and
in what way the casks were carried about from place to
place. The armorial bearings of the Queen-regent are
now bunt into the window of St Mary's, in Albany Street.
Leith became a walled town in 1549, when its fortifica-
tions, begun in 1548, were completed by D'Esse, the
commander of the French tioops then in Scotiand. His
object was to stiengthen the position of Mary of Lorraine,
who became regent in 1554. The rampart was octagonal
in form, with a bastion at each of the eight angles.
The first bastion, called Ramsay's Fort, and situated on
the E side of the river, between the beach and the W
end of the present Bernard Street, was intended to
protect the harbour. The wall ran from it in a SE
direction, parallel with the line of Bernard Street, and
had a second bastion on the same site as that upon
which the Exchange Buildings now stand, and a third
where Coatfield Lane joins Constitution Street. The
line of Constitution Stieet fairly represents the direc-
tion between the second and third bastions. From
the third to the seventh, the direction was more or less
NW. The fourth was at the top of Kirkgate, the
position of the fifth is uncertain, the sixth was some-
where near the river on the "W side of it, and the
seventh stood beside the site on which the Citadel was
afterwards built. The eighth bastion was at the Sand-
port, overlooking the harbour, and corresponding to
Ramsay's Fort on the opposite side of the stream.
Between the fifth and sixth bastions flowed the river,
which broke of course the continuity of the wall. The
two parts were joined by a wooden bridge, by which
communication was maintained between them. The
wall was buQt wholly of stone, and was pierced by
six gates, or 'ports,' as they were called. These were
the Sandport, St Nicholas' Port, the gate for Bonny-
town Road, St Anthony's Port, Coat-fold, Lady's "Walk.
St Anthony's Port was the chief, being the main
entrance to the town on the line of Kirkgate. At it
took place the severest fighting and the greatest blood-
shed in the attack of 1560, when the Lords of the Con-
gregation, assisted by the English, were worsted by
the combined Scotch and French forces under the
standard of Mary of Lorraine. The town was partly
dismantled of its fortifications in 1560, after the signing
of the treaty of Leith, but in 1571 the Earl of Morton
so far rebuilt the wall as to make it again serviceable
for defence. It has now totally disappeared, and its

489

LEITH

line can only be imperfectly guessed at, indications of
it sometimes appearing when the ground is turned up.
Traces still remain on the Links of the earthworks
raised by the Protestant party. The names of three
have come down — Mount Falcon, Mount Somerset,
Mount Pelham. Mount Somerset is now known as the
Giant's Brae. The Citadel of Leith, mainly constructed
in 1650 by the forces of Oliver Cromwell, stood on the
North Leith side of the river, and was of considerable
size. In form it was pentagonal, with a bastion at each
of the angles. Its extent may be gathered from its
comprising, besides magazines for gunpowder and stores
for provisions, barracks for the garrison, a place of
worship, and a courtyard. After the Restoration it
was almost entirely destroyed, and its site granted by
Charles IL to the Duke of Lauderdale. All that now
remains of this once large building is only a Saxon arch-
way and a few feet of the old wall.

Several circumstances combine to make the history
of Leith both interesting and eventful. Its proximity
to the capital, in whose fortunes, whether willingly or
unwillingly, it had to share ; its peculiar relation of de-
pendence upon Edinburgh ; its struggles after freedom,
at last successful — all unite to increase the intei'est which
it excites. The first mention of the town is found in
the charter of the abbey of Holyrood (1128 or 1143-47),
in which, along with other property, 'the lands of In-
verlet or Leith, in the neighbourhood of the harbour,
mth the said harbour,' are gi'anted to the monastery.
This charter is mentioned in all the charters which
refer to Leith that succeeded it, and hence there is
strong presumptive evidence of its genuineness. If its
validity be unquestioned, it may safely be concluded
that there was at that time some kind of harbour at the
mouth of the Leyt or Leith. That there was a harbour
in 1313 is certain, for at that date all the ships in it
were burned by the English invaders. A transaction
took place in 1329 between King Eobert the Bruce and
the town council of Edinburgh, which decided the fate
of Leith for long years to come. In it the capital had
all the advantage ; and, had the King foreseen its con-
sequences, such an agreement would never have been
ratified. By it the port of Leith, its mills and per-
tinents, were gifted to the burgesses of Edinburgh and
their successors, to have and to hold in all time coming
for the yearly payment of 52 merks, which, considering
the value of money then and now, would certainly be
less than £300, and might be about £280. This sum
was to be paid twice a year, one-half at Whitsunday
and the other half at Martinmas. The next step of the
city of Edinburgh was to strengthen its hold by getting
into its hands the ground that lay around the harbour.
In 1398 a dispute arose between Sir Robert Logan of
Restalrig, the superior of the lands, and the town
council of Edinburgh as to the legal rights of the latter.
Only in so far as it was the cause of the disagreement
had Leith any interest in the quarrel, which was simply
a struggle for the mastery between a grasping individual
and an equally grasping corporation. Sir Eobert Logan
was so far successful, in that he was able to force his
opponents to buy from him, by purchase and charter,
waste lands on which to build shops and granaries and
construct quays and wharfs. Lawsuits arose from time
to time between the baron and the burgesses, until in
1413, when Logan of Restalrig, by 'an exclusive, ruin-
ous, and enslaving bond,' restrained the inhabitants of
Leith from carrying on any trade, from possessing
warehouses and shops, and from keeping houses of en-
tertainment for strangers. For executing this deed,
which one would hardly have expected to find in a
country whose freedom has always been its boast, this
autocratic baron was paid a very large sum out of the
coffers of the city of Edinburgh. In 1428 King James I.
allowed a tax or toll to be levied upon all ships and
boats entering the port or harbour of Leith. Tlie money
that was the fruit of this tax was to be spent in im-
proving and repairing the harbour. The abbot of Holy-
rood appointed Sir Robert Logan in 1439 to the office
of bailie over the abbey lands of St Leonards, which lay
490 'J-

LEITH

in the town of Leith. Forty-six years later the Edin-
burgh town council, acting most despotically, ordained,
' That no merchant of Edinburgh presume to take into
partnership any indweller of the town of Leith under
pain of forty pounds to the Kirkwark and to be deprived
of the freedom (of the city) for ane zeare. ' This was
surely severe enough a punishment ; but the number of
restrictions had not yet reached an end. Further
orders prohibited the farming of the revenue of the city
to an inhabitant of Leith or any one in partnership with
a native of Leith, or the selling of goods in the seaport,
or the depositing of them in its warehouses. Royal
charters confirmed these far-reaching rights. James I. ,
by a charter dated 4 Nov. 1454, granted to Edinburgh
' the haven-siller, customs and duties of ships, vessels,
and merchandize coming to the road and harbour of
Leith.' James III., on 16 Nov. 1482, granted the
burgesses of the capital a detailed account of the cus-
toms, profits, exactions, commodities, and revenues of the
port and roads of Leith. In 1497 the civic authorities
took a step which was kind, though apparently cruel.
They obtained a writ from the privy council, which
bade all persons afflicted with contagious diseases appear
on the Sands of Leith. They Avere examined, and those
whose condition was dangerous to their neighbours were
taken to Inchkeith, there to die or to remain till they
recovered. James IV., on 9 March 1510, granted to
the city of Edinburgh a right to the new port called
Newhaven, with the lands belonging to it, and certain
faculties and privileges. He also confirmed the charter
of Feb. 1413, granted by Logan of Restalrig. This
custom of granting charters was continued by Mary,
Queen of Scots, who, on 8 Oct. 1550, confirmed an act
of the lords of session against the inhabitants of North
Leith, by which the provost and bailies of Edinburgh
were held proper judges of the said inhabitants in the
petty customs of Leith belonging to the town of Edin-
burgh. Mary of Lorraine may perhaps be credited with
good intentions towards Leith. When acting as queen-
regent in 1555, she contracted with the inhabitants to
erect the town into a burgh of barony, which was to
continue valid until she could erect it into a royal
burgh. To further this object, which must have ap-
peared to the inhabitants a way of escape from many
troubles, they agreed to lend her the sum of money
necessary to purchase the superiority of the town from
Logan of Restalrig. This engagement was never ful-
filled. The disorder of the times doubtless served the
regent as a sufficient excuse for not implementing it ;
but the Leith people in their disappointment declared
that she had been bribed by the city of Edinburgh to
break her plighted word. Mary, Queen of Scots, when
pressed for money, mortgaged the superiority of Leith
to the city of Edinburgh, redeemable for 1000 merks.
Conscious of what would be the fruit of her action,
she besought the town council to delay asserting their
rights, and to give her a chance of redeeming the
superiority. She was, however, quite unable to prevent
the burgesses from assuming by open demonstration
the powers and rights over the unhappy seaport,
which, owing to her needs and difficulties, they were
tacitly holding. On 2 July 1567 they marched to
Leith in military order, and went through some evolu-
tions, intended to represent the capture of a hostile
town. This might appear harmless and empty panto-
mime ; but the superiority of the capital over the sea-
port, and the way in which the stronger exercised its
power over the weaker, was a stern reality, and no mere
show. King Jame VI. of Scotland was entreated by
the unfortunate Leith people to interfere on their behalf,
and to relieve them from a part of their burden. The
King did interpose, but his interference was no boon,
since it only added to the weight imposed upon them.
By a letter of gift under the privy seal, dated 25 March
1596, he empowered the corporation of Edinburgh to
levy a tax during a certain period, to sujiport, erect,
ami repair the bulwark pier and the port of Leith ; and,
by a charter of confirmation and of novo damus (1607),
ho confirmed anew all the grants made to them. On

LEITH

this occasion Leith made a great effort to free itself from
tlie thraldom to which it had been so long subjected.
Bribes were otfered on both sides ; but, as might have
been expected, the wealthier party won. Charles I.
followed in the footsteps of his predecessor. By the
payment of £42,000 Scots to the Earl of Roxburgh,
who was acting in 1638 as treasurer of the King, the
superiority of the Canongate and of North Leitli was
secured to the magistrates of Edinburgh. In 1661, on
payment of £6000, the city of Edinburgh obtained pos-
session of the Citadel of Leith from the Earl of Lauder-
dale, to whom it had been granted by Charles IL It
was not until the 19th century had passed into its
third decade that Leith obtained relief from its ' auld
enemies,' as the burgesses and council of Edinburgh
may well be called. In 1832 the Reform Bill was
passed, and set Leith free from those who had too often
ruled it ^vith unnecessary rigour. The first representative
of Leith was John Archibald ^Murray, afterwards Lord
Murray, who contested the seat against Mr Aitchison of
Drummore. The first provost, appointed in 1833, was
Adam AVhyte. 'In 1838 the petty customs of Leith
were transferred by act of parliament from the city of
Edinburgh to the town council of Leith ; Leith Links
were acquired on payment of £25 per annum, along with
the Council Chambers and Tolbooth ; and the merk,
(ISgd. ), per ton upon all goods imported was abolished.'
In the course of time other changes were effected which
materially improved the position of the town, and gave
it an impetus the effects of which have not yet ceased
to be felt.

The above gives in brief outline the municipal history
of Leith, and for the sake of clearness it has been kept
apart as far as possible from its political and social
history. Although the fortunes of the seaport were
greatly influenced by its peculiar municipal relationship
to the capital, yet it had so far a distinct political
existence. Leith, it has been said, was first mentioned
either in 1128 or 1143. In 1313 and 1410 the ships in
its harbour were burned by the English — at the first
date, during the campaign in Scotland of Edward II. ,
which ended so disastrously for him at Baunockburn.
Nothing worthy of special note occurred in Leith until the
century had almost closed. In 1493, however, Robert
Ballantyne, Abbot of Holyrood, built the chapel of St
Ninian's, which afterwards became North Leith parish
church, and erected a bridge of 'three stonern arches' to
connect North Leith with South Leith. This was the
first bridge thrown across the Water of Leith, and its
stability and endurance have been fully proved by the
lecgth of time it has been available as a means of cross-
ing the river. From 1506 to 1510, under the enlightened
administration of King James IV. , whose efforts to raise
Scotland in the scale of civilisation as well as among the
nations were ably seconded by the famous sailor Sir
Andrew Wood, progress was made in maritime affairs
that deeply affected the fortunes of the sea-port. Either
at Leith or near it was built the Great Michael, in the
building of which, by a pardonable hyperbole, it was
said that nearly all the woods of Fife had been wasted.
In 1544 the Earl of Hertford, in command of 10,000
men, seized Leith, with the shipping in its harbour,
held it for a time, plundered and ravaged it and the
surrounding country, and then withdrew, leaving the
port in flames. The same general, when Duke of
Somerset, performed nearly the identical action in
1547, less damage, however, being done in 1547 than
in 1544. On the latter occasion he carried off 35
vessels. A year later, D'Esse, the French general,
began to construct the fortifications of Leith, and Mary
of Lorraine commenced to regard it as a place of shelter
from the coming storm. But before entering upon the
history of that troubled time, we may turn aside to look
upon Leith from a different stand-point, as the port at
which royalty generally landed when passing to and
from the Continent and elsewhere. At Leith James I.
and his queen, Jane, daiighter of the Earl of Somerset,
landed on 20 March 1423 ; from it James II. was borne
by sea to Stiiiing, after his abduction fjom Edinburgh

LEITH

Castle in 1438 ; there Mary of Gucldres, queen of James
II. , landed on 1 April 1449 ; and Margaret of Denmark,
queen of James III., in 1469. Sixty-eight years later
Magdalene of France, consort of James V. , ' the queen
of twenty summer days,' landed upon the same pier
that was burned by Hertford in 1544. The chronicler
records that as soon as her foot touched the ground, the
cpieen knelt, kissed the ground, and prayed God to bless
her adopted people. In 1548 Mary, Queen of Scots,
sailed from Leith for France ; and there, too, after
thirteen years spent at the French court, she laudeci
again in 1561, when —

' After a youth by woes o'ercast,
After a thousand sorrows past.
The lovely Mary once again
Sets foot upon her native plain ;
Kneel'd on the pier with modest grace,
And turned to heaven her beauteous face.

Tliere rode the lords of France and Spain,
Of England, Flanders, and Lorraine ;
■While serried thousands round them stood.
From Shore of Leith to Holyrood.'

The lines quoted express what history has recorded of
the warm welcome and the loyal devotion lavished upon
Mary Stuart when she returned to sit upon the throne
of her fathers. It was at Leith that Mary's daughter-
in-law, Anne of Denmark, landed in May 1589, after her
marriage to James VI. of Scotland in Norway. Other
sovereigns who have landed at Leith are James VII.
of Scotland in 1682 (while Duke of York), on which
occasion he played golf on the links, and Mons ileg,
fired in his honour, was damaged bej'ond repair ; George
IV., who arrived on 15 Aug. 1822 ; and Queen Victoria
and the Prince Consort on 3 Sept. 1842. The Queen
recorded her opinion of Leith in a siugle sentence, which
was the reverse of favourable.

The historical account of Leith was brought down to
1548, in which year the fortifications began to rise
around the town. In the contest between Mary of
Lorraine and the Lords of the Congregation, Leith
v.-ould have been extremely useful to either partj% but
its importance was far gi'eater to the Regent than to the
Lords. Holding it, she was able to draw from France
provisions, munitions of war, troops ; and, if the worst
did come to the worst, it left a way of escape open by
sea back to her native country. These reasons en-
couraged Mary in her attempt to make the inhabitants
of the seaport friendh' to her and her party. Mary's
action with regard to the superiority of the tosvn, and
her promise to erect it into a royal bui'gh, have already
been noticed. The goodwill she manifested towards
them impressed the inhabitants with the belief that to
the Queen Regent, rather than to another, should they
look for help. Her frequent presence in the town, her
gracious and winning ways, added not a little to her
popularity. Mary of Lorraine had therefore acted wisely
when she chose Leith as the ' nest ' to which she, the
'linnet,' was compelled to fly for refuge from those
birds of prey hovering over her — the Lords of Ari-an,
Argyll, Ochiltree, and Ruthven. Andre de Montalem-
bert, Sieur D'Esse, had, in 1548-49, constructed the for-
tifications of Leith, and made it the French ' place of
arms ' in Scotland. During the ten years tliat had
elapsed between their erection and the siege of Leitli, the
fortifications had fallen out of repair, and the Regent
at once set about putting them into a state of efficiency.
Some preliminaiy negotiations were conducted, but with-
out avail, and the Lords began to besiege the town in
October 1559. Everything went against them. They
tried to storm it, but were repulsed ; the besieged made
a sortie, and drove back the Protestant forces with great
loss ; an emissary, sent to England to beg assistance,
was waylaid as he returned with a large sum of money
to pay the forces, and robbed and wounded. In their
need the Lords looked for help to Elizabeth, who sent
(1 April 1560) an English reinforcement of 6000 men
under the command of Lord Grey of Wilton. But, be-
fore their arrival, the 'linnet,' finding her nest no
longer tenable, had abandoned it, and betaken herself

491

LEITH

to the Castle of Edinburgh. For two months the siege
lasted, success now declaring for the one side and now
for the other. The loss of both parties in men was con-
siderable, and the besieged found that they had not
only to fight against the English, but against famine
too. Still they fought on with undiminished spirit.
At last both French and English saw that it was
advisable to put a stop to this continued strife, and
a treaty was arranged by the Bishop of Valence and
Lord Burleigh. It stipulated that the two parties should
return to their own lands on the same day, and this
arrangement was carried into effect on 16 July 1560.
Soon after, the walls were ordered to be destroyed, and
Leith sank from being a fortified to being a commercial
town. The Regent did not see these plans carried out.
Her health had' long been breaking, and the contention,
rivalry, and bloodshed by which her term of office had
been marked, doubtless hastened her end. She died on
10 June 1560, in the Castle of Edinburgh.

Mary, Queen of Scots, landed at Leith on 19 Aug.
1561, and rode to Holyrood on the next day amid the
acclamations of the ' serried thousands ' assembled to
do her honour. Her mortgaging Leith, her chief act
in reference to the town, has already been noticed. At
that time Edinburgh was the natural centre of faction
and intrigue, and Leith was peculiarly sensitive to every
change of feeling in the capital. It was generally in
opposition, so that if Edinburgh was held by one i^arty,
it was all but certain that Leith would contain the
headquarters of the other. In the minority of James
VI. the seaport was held by the Earl of Morton nomin-
ally for the King, and soon became the centre round
which there gathered from Edinburgh and elsewhere the
party opposed to the imprisoned Queen. Their council -
chamber on the Coalhill has been alluded to under the
antiquities. In 1571 the Edinburgh party made a sud-
den attack upon their opponents, in which, though at
first victorious, they were afterwards worsted and driven
back upon the capital. This was the ' Lang Fight,'
in which the dvu'ation of the struggle was in inverse
proportion to the number of the slain, the former having
continued all day long, while the latter only numbered
36. As the war dragged on, feelings became embittered,
and great cruelty and harshness were practised. Men and
women were burned on the cheek, whipped through the
town, drowned and hanged on the most trivial grouuds.
Even to belong to Edinburgh or Leith was crime enough
to cost a man his life. It required very strong repre-
sentations on the part of the French and English
ambassadors to repress these barbarous acts, and to
secure a cessation of hostilities between the Queen's
men and the King's men.

In 1572 Leith was the scene of a meeting very diffe-
rent from any that had previously taken place in it, for
in that year there was held in it an ecclesiastical convo-
cation, in which superintendents, commissioners, and
ministers took part. In the following year Maitland
of Lethington died of poison in the Tolbooth of Leith
(1573). An act of parliament, passed in 1578, is curi-
ously illustrative of a time in which protection was
considered a first law of nature. Its purpose was to
prevent the export of butcher-meat, and one clause
enjoined that the bailies of Leith should take care that
no ship carried off more meat than was sufficient to
serve its crew until they reached their next port.

Leith was made, in 1584, the chief market for herring
and other fish caught in the Firth of Forth, and this
doubtless helped to increase the trade of the port. In
1610, not fewer than 35 English sailors were hanged on
the Sands of Leith for piracy, whose prevalence required
stem measures of repression.

1643 is a memorable date in the history of Leith, for
in October of that year the Solemn League and Cove-
nant was signed by the inhabitants, the subscription
being preceded by prayer, preaching, and fasting. Two
years after Leith was visited by a terrible plague which,
in nine months, carried off fully one-half of the popu-
lation. Famine accompanied the ]ilague, and had its
own victims. Between them, in South Leith parish,
492

LEITH

the death-roll numbered 2421 ; in Restalrig 160 ; in
Craigend (Calton) 155. Many of the dead were buried
in the Links, and even now it is not unusual, when the
ground is opened, to find bones, and even, it is said,
fragments of the blankets or other material in which the
bodies were hastily wrapped and buried. One result of
the calamity was the passing of an act of parliament
which allowed the magistrates to seize whatever grain
they could find in granaries or store-houses for the use
of the survivors. They were also given permission to
seek help from the charitable in their distress, both to
pay for the borrowed corn, and to help them to tidb over
their time of trouble.

Five years elapsed between the stamping-out of the
plague and the occupation of Leith by Major-General Lam-
bert, acting for Oliver Cromwell. Disease and famine had
thinned the population, and even those who survived
bore the marks of the trial they had passed through.
They were powerless to resist the exactions of their
conquerors. Besides having to pay its share of the
assessment of £200 levied upon the capital and seaport,
Leith had also to find a monthly sum of £22, 7s. 6d.
This does not appear a very large amount of money,
still, when all the circumstances of the case are taken
into account, £22, 7s. 6d. does not seem so insignificant
a sum after all. When Cromwell returned to England
he left General Monk commander-in-chief in Scotland.
Monk made Leith his headquarters, and the Citadel,
erected by Cromwell in 1650, contained a garrison of
regular soldiers. Fully aware of the capabilities of
Leith as a seaport. Monk exerted his influence to induce
a number of Englishmen, of wealth and position, to settle
there as immigrants. Those who came throve in their
new home, much to the disgust of the people of Edin-
burgh, who did everything in their power to thwart
them and keep them from prospering. Their attempts
to hurt the English settlers became at last so notorious,
that Cromwell himself had to interfere. At the instance
of Monk, he appointed him and two of the Scotch
judges referees in all matters of dispute. It might
have been expected, and the action of the English makes
it almost certain that they did expect, that Monk would
have taken more than usual care to secure their interests.
It seems more than probable that he was bribed by the
city of Edinburgh. A memorial, prepared by the
Southerns and the people of Leith, set forth their
common grievances, but was unsuccessful in obtaining
for them any redress. Still, so far as the Leith people
were concerned, their position was not a little improved
by the tranquillity of the times, the freer circulation of
money, and the presence in their midst of an indus-
trious, peaceful living community.

On 26 July 1698, the ill-fated Darien expedition
of 5 frigates, with 1200 men and 300 gentlemen, sailed
from Leith Roads. On 4 April 1705, Captain Green of
the Worcester and two of his crew were hanged on
Leith Sands for murder and piracy, committed on the
high seas in 1703. In 1715, during the rebellion, Briga-
dier Mackintosh of Borlum, with a party of Highlanders,
seized the Citadel, and held it for a day. The Duke of
Argyll, who was then in Edinburgh, threatened to
attack the Highlanders, but the marauders did not wait
for battle. Having plundered the Custom-house, and
broken open the prison, they gathered together as much
booty as they could conveniently carry, and beat a hasty
retreat across Leith Sands at low water. A mutiny of
the Seaforth Highlanders occurred in 1778, but was
suppressed without bloodshed by the officers granting
their demands. Twenty-one years later a party of High-
land recruits, which was to sail from Leith, also mutinied,
refused to embark, and took up a position on the shore.
This affair did not end so easil}^ as the mutiny was not
quelled until 12 of the Highlanders were kiHed and 20
were wounded, while, of the Fencibles sent to subdue
them, 2 were killed and 1 was wounded. On 17 Sept.
1779, Leith, like other towns on both sides of the Firth
of Forth, was much disturbed by the appearance of Paul
Jones. Three batteries were quickly raised, two at Leith
and one at Newhaven, but their services were fortu-

LEITH

nately not required, as the privateer's ships were blo-wn
out of the Firth by a strong westerly gale. Since the
beginning of the present century Leith has had that
form of good fortune which needs no annals to record
it. In quieter times, and freed from the jealous rule of
the city of Edinburgh, it has made advances which
cannot fail to excite astonishment. In its docks, mth
the ships of all nations floating in them, in its ware-
houses and works, and in its busy streets, there is sure
indication of its prosperity. And there can be no
greater difference than between the attitude which
Edinburgh sustains to Leith at the present day, and
that which it sustained towards it during the centuries
of its dominion and mis-rule. Petty jealousies do occa-
sionally arise, but, on all important questions, there is
commonly an unanimity of opinion and of sentiment
which one would scarcely expect to see, after the bitter
feeling of resentment with which Leith had learned to
regard the capital, as the somxe of most of its woes, as
the check upon its growth, and as the main cause of its
degradation.

Of the natives of Leith, the following may be noted
as the most famous. John Home (1722-1808), born
in a house in Quality Street, became minister of
Athelstaneford, vsrote Agis and Douglas, and, owing
to his having written these stage-plays, was I'egarded
with disapproval b}' the Church. He gave up his
charge, resided in Edinbm-gh until his death, and wrote
other works, chiefly dramatic. Douglas, his best, was
played at Edinburgh in 1756. Hugo Arnot (1749-
86) wrote a History of Edinhurgh (1779) and Crimmal
Trials (1785). Sir John Gladstone of Fasque (1764-
1851) made a large fortune at Liverpool in the shipping
trade, sat as member of parliament for Lancaster, Wood-
stock, Berwick, purchased the estate of Fasque, and was
made a baronet in 1846. His fourth son, William Ewart
(b. 1809), is the present Premier. Robert Jameson (1774-
1854) acted as keeper of the Edinburgh University
Museum (1792), professor of Natural History (1804),
established the Wernerian Society (1808), and began
the Philosophical Magazine (1819). Jameson wrote two
works on mineralogy. David Cousin (1809-78) was an
eminent architect. Erskine Nicol (b. 1825) is a well-
known Scotch artist and member of the Royal Scottish
Academy. James Marwick (b. 1826) acted as to\vn-
clerk of Edinburgh (1860-1873), and of Glasgow from
1873 onwards. He has edited numerous works on sub-
jects upon which his position, first in Edinburgh and
then in Glasgow, has made him an authority. Such are
Eecords of the City and Royal Burgh of Edinhurgh (4
volumes, quarto, 1869-80), Records of the City and
Royal Burgh of Glasgow (2 volumes, quarto, 1876-80),
and Charters of the City of Glasgoio (1879). Other well-
kno\vn characters connected with Leith, though not by
birth, are Secretary Maitland (1525-73), who died of
poison in the old Tolbooth to escape being executed ;
John Kay (1742-1826), the drawer of the ^' Edinburgh
Portraits,' who was brought up at Leith ; Robert Nicoll
(1814-37), 'Scotland's second Burns,' who lies buried
in the old churchyard of St Niniaus; John Logan (1748-
88), ordained to South Leith parish in 1773, the com-
poser of some of the Paraphrases and editor of an edition
of Michael Bruce's Poems; Dr Colquhoun (1748-1827),
who succeeded Logan in the charge ; and Dr Harper
(1794-1879), minister of the first Secession charge of
North Leith (1819), professor of Systematic and Pastoral
Theology in the United Presbyterian Theological Hall
(1847), and moderator of the U.P. Synod (1860).

The parish of North Leith is bounded on the N by
the Firth of Forth ; on the E and SE by the Water of
Leith, which divides it from the parish of South Leith ;
and on the S and W by the parish of St Cuthbert's.
The outline is most irregular. It follows the windings
of the Water of Leith from its mouth to a point near
the Bonnington Mills, then strikes down in a NNW
direction to within about ^ mile of the shore ; then
stretches in zig-zag fashion along the course of the
Anchorfield Burn SW to Inverleith Row, whence it
strikes off due N and reaches the Firth at Wardie, Its

LEITH

surface is on the whole level, with a tendency to rise,
at first abruptly, then gradually as it retreats from the
Firth. It is mainly covered by the town of North
Leith, the village of Newhaven, the suburbs of Bon-
nington and Trinity, and numerous -i-illas with their
grounds. Within late years the building of houses,
chiefly of the villa class, has been largely carried on.
In extent it is 1 J mile long, \ mile broad, and has an area
of 349 acres. A powerful breakwater on the seaward side
of the parish has been built to defend the land against
the encroachments of the Firth. North Leith Links,
originally | mile long and 200 yards broad, have entirely
disappeared. The parish is partly traversed by the
lines of the North British and Caledonian Railway
Companies. The land in it has greatly increased in
value of late years on account of the demand for ground
to buUd upon, and this explains the disappearance of
nurseries and market gardens which once occupied the
ground now covered with houses. Pop. of North Leith
quoad civilia parish (1801) 3228, (1831) 7416, (1861)
10,903, (1871) 14,828, (1881) 18,732, of whom 9304
were females, whilst 14,038 were in North Leith eccle-
siastical parish, and 4694 in that of Newhaven. Houses
(1881) 3743 inhabited, 230 vacant, 24 building.

This parish is in the presbytery of Edinburgh and
synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. The living is worth
about £700, made up of £285 of stipend and £395 from
seat rents, fees, etc. There are an Established church of
Newhaven and 4 Free churches — North Leith, income
£1774, stipend£870; StNinian's, income £227 ; Trinity,
income £212, stipend £160 ; Newhaven, income £1129,
stipend £381. North Leith United Presbyterian church
has an income of £1721, and the Baptist church has 163
members. The parish contains 3 board schools, 1 navi-
gation school (opened 1855), 1 of Dr Bell s schools, and
some private schools.

Previous to the Reformation North Leith belonged
partly to the parish of Holyroodhouse, and partly to
that of St Cuthbert's, David I. having endowed the
monastery of Holyrood, with considerable property on
the shores of the Firth, of which North Leith, etc.,
formed a part. The chapel of St Ninian was built and
endowed by Robert Ballantyne, abbot of Holyrood. It
was purchased from John Bothwell, commendator of
Holyrood, by the inhabitants of Leith in 1609. The dis-
trict was thereupon erected into a parish by act of par-
liament, and in 1630 the commissioners for teinds and
planting further extended its limit by adding to it New-
haven and the rest of the area that had belonged to St
Cuthbert's. In 1633 the parish was joined to the epis-
copate of Edinburgh.

The parish of South Leith is bounded on the NE by
the Firth of Forth, on^the S by Duddingston and Canon-
gate, on the W by some parishes of the royalty of Edin-
burgh, by St Cuthbert's and North Leith. Nearly trian-
gular in form, and with an area of 1629 acres, the par-
ish is 2^ miles long on the NE side, 2| on the S side,
and If on the W side. The boundary is traced for some
way with Duddingston by the Fishwives' Causeway,
then passes along the Portobello road as far as Jock's
Lodge, where it strikes off, and, after skirting Arthur's
Seat, mainly on the line of the Queen's Drive, trends
almost due N to Abbeyhill, whence it runs along the
North Back of the Canongate, passes through Low
Calton, then down Leith Walk to its foot, strikes off
westward to the Water of Leith, and follows its wind-
ings to the sea. It thus includes, besides its landward
districts, Calton Hill, parts of Calton and Canongate,
Abbeyhill, Jock's Lodge, Restalrig, the E side of Leith
Walk, and the town of South Leith. Part of this
■district is described under Edinburgh, and separate
articles treat of Jock's Lodge, Lochend, and Restalrig.
Where not built upon, the ground has been brought to
a high state of cultivation, but a great part of' it is
taken n^ by villas and mansions, among which may
be mentioned Craigentinny House, Restalrig House,
Lochend House, HawkhUl, Marionville. In a field
which lies to the N of the Portobello road, a little way
past Piershill, and belongs to the Craigentinny estate,

493

LEITHEN LODGE

stands the splendid mausoleum of William Miller, Esq.,
at one time M.P. for Newcastle- under -Lyne. The
• Craigentinny marbles,' as the 'reliefs' which are on
two sides of the mausoleum are called, represent the
destruction of the Egyptians and the triumphant song
of Miriam on their overthrow. Their execution is at
once striking and artistic. The beach of South Leith,
once fine, has been much spoiled of late years. Pop. of
quoad civilia parish (1801) 12,044, (1831) 18,439, (1861)
26,170, (1871) 30,079, (1881) 44,783, of whom 22,454
were females, whilst 30,848 were in the ecclesiastical
parish of South Leith, 4405 of St John's, 4368 of St
Thomas, 5051 of Abbey, and 111 of Portobello. Houses
(1881) 8938 inhabited, 830 vacant, 326 building.

This parish is in the presbytery of Edinburgh and
synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. The living is worth
£920, made up of teinds £690, communion elements
£20, manse £90, glebe £120. The parish church, as
well as St Thomas's and St John's Established Churches,
are described under the town of Leith. There are also
Established churches at Restalrig and Lome Street. Two
Free churches are — South Leith (income £1755) and
St John's (income £1183, stipend £175). Three United
Presbyteiian churches are — Junction Street (income
£1267, stipend £500), Kirkgate (income £827, stipend
£400), and St Andrew's Place (income £1322). Other
churches in the parish are mentioned under the town of
Leith, and the various schools, board and otherwise, are
also referred to there.

Restalrig was the ancient name of the parish of South
Leith, a church having existed there as early as 1296,
■when Adam of St Edmunds, ' pastor of Restalric,' swore
fealty to Edward L From an early date in the 14th
century to 1600, the patronage of this living was in the
hands of the Logans of Restalrig, who lost it owing to
the share which the then head of the family took in
Cowrie's conspiracy. The establishment, which was
collegiate, consisting of a dean and canon, was first set
up by James IIL, was afterwards increased by James
IV. , who added 6 prebendaries, and by James V. , who
added singing boys. The three kings enriched it by
grants of land, etc. A chapel, dedicated to the Virgin
Mary, and situated in the town of South Leith, was
erected, probably in 1483, and became the parish church
after the Reformation, while the revenues derived from
the altarages and other sources were so far employed in
the support of the ministers of the reformed church.
In 1609 it was formally constituted the parish church
by act of parliament, and endowed with the revenues
and pertinents of Restalrig. Of the Preceptory of St
Anthony, founded by Logan of Restalrig in 1435, and
suppressed in 1614, hardly any vestiges remain. The
seal of the convent is, however, still preserved in the
Advocates' Library, Edinburgh. — Ord. Sur., sh. 32,
1857.

See The History of Leith from the Earliest Accounts
to 1827, by Alexander Campbell (1827) ; Antiquities
of Leith, by D. H. Robertson, M.D., F.S.A. (1851);
Memorials of Edinburgh in the Olden Times, by Daniel
Wilson, LL.D. (Edinb. 1875); and James Grant's Old
and New Edinburgh (Lond. 1883).

Leithen Lodge, a modern mansion in Innerleithen
parish, Peeblesshire, on the left bank of Leithen Water,
4§ miles N by W of the town. Its late owner, Jn. Miller,
Esq. (1805-83), Liberal M.P. for Edinburgh 1868-74,
held 13,000 acres in Peebles and 2750 in Kincardine
shires, valued at £2782 and £3353 per ammm.— Ord.
Sur., sh. 24, 1864.

Leithen Water. See Innerleithen.

Leith Hall. See Kennethmont.

Leith Lumsden. See Auchindoir.

Leitholm, a village in Eccles parish, Berwickshire, 5|
miles NW of Coldstream. It has a post office under
Coldstream, the site of a pre-Reformation chapel, a
public school, and a U.P. church, containing 300
sittings. Pop. (1861) 305, (1871) 328, (1881) 284.

Leith, Water of, a small river of Edinburghshire,
foi-med by several burns of Midcalder ])arish that rise
among the Pentlands at altitudes of from 1250 to 1400

LENNOX

feet above sea-level. Thence it winds 23| miles north-
eastward, through or along the borders of Midcalder,
Kirknewton, Currie, Colinton, St Cuthbert's, and North
and South Leith parishes, till it falls into the Firth of
Forth between the heads of the E and W piers of Leith
harbour. Its chief tributary is Bavelaw Burn, flowing
into it at Balerno ; and its other tributaries are small
but numerous, mostly from the Pentlands. Its volume
varies, according to the weather, from the insignificance
of a brook to the importance of a considerable river ;
and its velocity, over most of its course, in times of
freshet, is impetuous. Its water-power, for the driving
of corn, paper, and other mills, is economised by such a
multitude of dams as to exceed the water-power of any
other stream of its size in Scotland. The trout-fishing
in its lower reaches has long been destroyed by the
action of the mills ; and that in its upper reaches used
to be excellent, but has greatly deteriorated through
extension of the Edinburgh water-works. Its banks,
over the greater part of its course, are beautifully
picturesque, I'anging from romantic glen to meadowy
plain, and abounding in rocks and woods, in parks and
elegant mansions. The last 5J miles of its course lie
through the parliamentary burghs of Edinburgh and
Leith ; and the most striking feature here, the Dean
Bridge, is noticed in our article on the former city. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 32, 1857.

Lempitlaw, a village in Sprouston parish, Roxburgh-
shire, 6 miles ESE ot" Kelso.

Lendalfoot, a coast village, with a puljlic school, in
Colmonell parish, Ayrshire, at the mouth of the Water
of Lendal, 6^ miles SSW of Girvan.

Leudal, Water of, a burn in Girvan and Colmonell
parishes, Ayrshire, issuing from tiny Loch Lochtou, and
running 3§ miles south-westward and west-by-south-
ward, till it falls into the Firth of Clyde at Carleton
Bay.— Ord Sur., sh. 7, 1863.

Leney. See Leny.

Leuuel House, a modern mansion in Coldstream
parish, Berwickshire, on the steep left bank of the
Tweed, 1 mile NE of the town. It is a seat of the Earl
of Haddington ; and its predecessor was the residence
for many years and the death-place of Patrick Brydone
(1741-1818), author of the well-known Tour through
Sicily and Malta, who here on 7 May 1787 gave Robert
Burns an ' extremely flattering reception.' The parish
of Coldstream till 1716 bore the name of Lennel or
Leinhall ; and its church stood 3 furlongs lower down
the river. Around it once was a village of Lennel,
destroyed by predatory incursion during the Border
wars. — 07x1. Sur., sh. 26, 1864. See Tyninghame.

Lennox, the ancient county of Dumbarton, compre-
hending the whole of the modern countj^ of Dumbarton,
a large part of Stirlingshire, and part of the counties of
Perth and Renfrew. The original name was Lcven-ach,
'the field of the Leven,' and very appropriately desig-
nated the basin, not only of the river Leven, but also of
Loch Lomond, anciently called Loch Leven. Levenachs,
in the plural number, came to be the name of all the
extensive and contiguous possessions of the powerful
earls of the soil ; and, being spelt and written Levenax,
was easily and naturally corrupted into Lennox. In
the 13th century Lennox and the sheriffdom of Dum-
barton appear to have been co-extensive ; but afterwards,
in consequence of great alterations and considerable
curtailments upon the sheriffdom, they ceased to be
identical.

In or soon after 1174 King William the Lyon created
the two new earldoms of Garioch and Levenach, and
bestowed them on his brother, David, Earl of Hunting-
don, who, however, in 1184 appears to have resigned
the earldom of Levenach in favour of Aluin, first of a
line of Celtic earls. Maldwin, the third earl, obtained
from Alexander II. in 1238 a confirmatory charter of
the earldom as held by his father ; but was not allowed
the Castle of Dumbarton, nor the lands, port, and
fisheries of Murrach. In 1284 Earl Malcolm concurred
with the ' Magnates Scotia ' in swearing to acknowledge
Margaret of Norway as heir-apparent to Alexander III.'s

LENNOX

throne ; and in 1290 he appeared in the assembly of the
states at Birgham, and consented to the marriage of
Margaret with the son of Edward I. Next year, when
Margaret's death opened the competition for the Crown,
Malcolm was one of the nominees of Robert Bruce ; and,
resistance to England becoming necessary, he, in 1296,
assembled his followers, and, with other Scottish leaders,
invaded Cumberland and assaulted Carlisle. While Sir
Alexander Menteith, the captor of the patriot Wallace,
was governor of Dumliarton Castle, and sheriff of Dum-
bartonshire, in favour of Edward I., Malcolm went
boldly out, and achieved feats as a supporter of Robert
Bruce ; and he continued, after Bruce's death, to main-
tain the independence of the kingdom, till, in 1333, he
fell with hoary locks, but lighting like a youthful
warrior, at Halidon Hill.

In 1424, after the restoration of James I., Earl Dun-
can became involved in the fate of his son-in-law,
Murdoch, Duke of Albany, the Regent ; and for some
real or merely imputed crime, which no known history
specifies, he was, in May next year, along with the
Duke and two of the Duke's sons, beheaded at Stirling.
Though Duncan left, by his second marriage, a legiti-
mate son, called Donald of Lennox ; yet his daugliter
Isabella, Duchess of Albanj-, while obtaining no regular
entry to the earldom as heiress, appears to have enjoyed
it during the reign of James II. ; and she resided in the
castle of Inchmurriu in Loch Lomond, the chief messu-
age of the earldom, and there granted charters to vassals,
as Countess of Lennox, and made gifts of portions of the
property to religious establishments. After this lady's
death in 1459, a long contest took place for the earldom
between the heirs of her sisters, Elizabeth and Margaret,
the second and third daughters of Duncan, whose
priority of age was not ascertained bj- evidence, or
admitted of keen and plausible dispute. The vast
landed property of Lennox was dismembered between
the disputants ; but the honours, the superiority, and
the principal messuage of the earldom — the grand object
of dispute — could be awarded to only one party, and
were not finally adjudged till 1493. Sir John Stewart
of Damley had married Elizabeth ; and their grandson,
besides being declared heir to half the Lennox estate,
became Lord Darnley and Earl of Lennox. Sir Robert
Menteith of Rusky had married Margaret ; and their
moiety of the Lennox estate came, with the estate of
Rusk}-, to be divided, in the persons of their gi-eat-
granddaughters, the co-heiresses, between Sir John
Haldane of Gleneagles, who had married the elder, and
Sir John Napier of Merchiston, who had married the
younger. In 1471 the earldom, being in the King's
Lands by the non-entry of any heir, was given, during
his life, to Andrew, Lord Avoudale, the chancellor.
After the fall of James III., John Lord Darnley appears
to have been awarded the Lennox honours by the new
government ; and in 1488 he sat as Earl of Lennox in
the first parliament, and received for himself and his
son Matthew Stewart the ward and revenues of Dum-
barton Castle, which had been held by Lord Avondale.
But only next year he took arms against the young
King, drew besieging forces upon his fortresses both of
Crookston and Dumbarton, suffered a defeat or rather a
night surprise and rout at Tilly Moss, on the S side of
the Forth above Stirling, saw the castle of Dumbarton,
which was defended by four of his sons, yield to a
vigorous six weeks' siege, headed by the King and the
ministers of state, and, after all, succeeded in making
his peace with government, and obtaining a full pardon
for himself and his followers.

Matthew, the next Earl, whose accession took place
in 1494, led the men of Lennox to the fatal field of
Flodden, where he and the Earl of Argyll commanded
the right wing of the Scottish army, and, with many of
their followers, were hewn down amid vain efforts of
valour. John, the son and successor of Matthew,
played an active part during the turbulent minority of
James V. In 1514 he, along with the Earl of Glencairn,
assailed the castle of Dumbarton during a tempestuous
night, and, breaking open the lower gate, succeeded in

LENNOX

taking it; in 1516 he was imprisoned by the Regent
Albany, to compel liim to surrender the fortress as the
key of the west, and was obliged to comply ; and in
1526 he assembled a force of 10,000 men, and marched
towards Edinburgh to the rescue of the young Kino-
from the power of the Douglases. Matthew, the next
earl, a very conspicuous figure in history, obtained in
1531, for nineteen years, the tenure of the governorship
and revenues of Dumbarton Castle. In 1543, some
French ships arriving in the Clyde ^vith supplies for the
(lueen, he, by artful persuasion, got the captains to
land 30,000 crowns of silver and a quantity of arms and
ammunition in the castle ; and he immediately joined
with other malcontents in an abortive attempt to over-
throw the government. In May and June 1544 he
secretly entered the service of Henry VIII., engaging
every effort to seize and deliver to England the Scottish
Queen, the isle of Bute, and the castle and territories of
Dumbarton, and obtaining from the King the Lady
Margaret Douglas in marriage, and lands in England to
the annual value of 6S00 merks Scots. Sent soon after-
wards to the Clyde with 18 English ships and 600
soldiers, he was civilly received by George Stirling of
Glorat, whom he had left in charge of Dumbarton
Castle as his deputy ; but he no sooner hinted to that
official his design, and ofiered him a pension from
Henry, than he and his Englishmen were tunied out of
the fortress and compelled to return to their ships. The
Earl and his party now ravaged and wasted, \rith fire
and sword, the islands of Arran and Bute, and other
j)laces in the west; and in October 1545 he was declared
by parliament to have incurred forfeiture. He con-
tinued an active partisan in the hostilities against Scot-
land of Henry YIII. and his successor, received from
the former a grant of the manor of Temple-Newsom in
Yorkshire, and during twenty years remained in Eng-
land an exile from his native land. Father of ISIary's
husband, the ill-fated Lord Darnley, and grandfather
of James YI. , he eventually rose in the revolvin<^
politics of the period to the uppermost side of the Mdieel^
and for a period filled the office of Regent, and vice-
regally swayed the sceptre of his grandson. Holding
at Stirling Castle, in Sept. 1571, what the opposite
party in politics called 'the black parliament, ' he was
mortally wounded in an attack made upon the town by
a small force who designed to take the fortress by
surprise.

The earldom of Lennox now devolved on James VI.
as the next heir ; and in April 1572 it and the lordship
of Darnley, with the whole of the family propert)' and
heritable jurisdictions, were given to Lord Charles
Stewart, the King's uncle, and Lord Darnley's younger
brother. But he dying in 1576 without male issue,
the}' again devolved to the King, and were given in
1578 to the King's grand-uncle. Lord Robert Stewart,
Bishop of Caithness, resigned by him in 1579 in ex-
change for the earldom of March, and given in 1579-80
to Esme Stewart, Lord D'Aubigny. In Aug. 1581 Esme,
this last favourite among the royal kinsmen, and the
holder of the office of chamberlain of Scotland, was
raised to the dignity of the Duke of Lennox and Earl
of Darnley ; and his son Ludovi?, the second Duke,
received from the King additional offices and grants of
property, and, among other preferments, was made
custodier of Dumbarton Castle, and the owner of its
pertinents and revenues. In 1672 Charles the sixth
Duke, dying without issue, the peerage, with all its
accumulated honours and possessions, went once more
to the Crown, devolving on Charles II. as the nearest
collateral heir-male ; and the revenues of the estates
were settled for life on the dowager Duchess. In 1680
Charles II. granted to his illegitimate sou, Charles, born
of Louise Renee de Ferrencourt de Querouaille, Duchess
of Portsmouth and D'Aubigny, the dukedom of Lennox
and earldom of Darnley in Scotland, and the dukedom
of Richmond and earldom of March in the peerage of
England. After the death of the dowager Duchess in
1702, the Duke of Richmond and Lennox sold the whole
of his property in Scotland, the Marquis of Montrose

495

LENNOXBANK

purchasing most of it, as well as many of its jurisdic-
tions. In 1836 Charles, fifth Duke of Richmond and
Lennox, succeeded to the Gordon estates. See Gokdon
Castle.

In the reign of James IV. the sheriffdom of Dumbar-
tonshire was made hereditary in the family of Lennox,
Earl ilatthew obtaining in 1503 a grant which united
the office to the earldom. The office continued a per-
tinent of the Earls and Dukes for two centuries, and
•was usually executed by deputy-sheriffs of tbeir appoint-
ment. The Marquis of Montrose, who was created Duke
in 1707, purchased at ouce the sheriffdom of the county,
the custodiership of Dumbarton Castle, and the juris-
diction of the regality of Lennox, along with the large
part of the Lennox propertj'^ bought from the first Duke
of Richmond and Lennox. The Earls and Dukes of
Lennox had a very ample jurisdiction over all their
estates, both in and beyond Dumbartonshire, compre-
hended in the regality of Lennox ; and their vassals
also had powers of jurisdiction within the lands held by
them, subject to the remarkable condition that all the
criminals condemned in their court should be executed
on the Earl's gallows. At the abolition of heritable
jurisdictions in 1748, the Duke of Montrose claimed for
the regality of Lennox £4000, but was allowed only
£578, ISs. 4d. See Dr William Eraser's The Lennox (2
vols., Edinb., 1874), and other works cited under Duji-
BARTOX and Dumbartonshire.

Lennoxbank, an estate, with a mansion, in Bouhill
parish, Dumbartonshire, near Balloch station. Its
owner, Archibald Orr-Ewing, Esq. of Ballikinrain
and GoLLANFiELD (b. 1819), Conservative member for
Dumbartonshire since 1868, holds 201 acres in Dum-
barton, 4520 in Stirling, and 906 in Inverness shires,
valued at £4340, £3086, and £865 per annum.— OnZ.
Sur., sh. 30, 1866.

Lennox Castle, a very strong ancient fortalice in
Currie jiarish, Edinburghshire, on a rising-ground on
the right bank of the Water of Leith, | mile SW of
Currie village. It commanded a charming view down
the vale of the Water of Leith towards the Firth of
Eorth ; had a subterranean communication with another
building on the opposite bank of the river ; belonged to
the Earls of Lennox ; was an occasional residence of
Queen Mary and the Regent Morton, and a favourite
hunting-seat of James VI., from whom it passed into
the possession of the celebrated George Heriot ; and,
having fallen into decay, it became an utter ruin, now
popularly known as Lymphoy. — Ord. Sur., sh. 32,
1857.

Lennox Castle, a splendid mansion in Campsie parish,
Stirlingshire, 7 furlongs WSW of Campsie Glen station,
and Ig mile W by N of Lennoxtown. Standing on the
wooded northern slope of the South Brae (758 feet), it
commands an extensive and brilliant view, and itself
figures as a striking feature in a gorgeous landscape. It
was erected in 1837-41, after designs by David Hamil-
ton of Glasgow, in a bold variety of the grand old Nor-
man style ; occupies a site adjoining that of the old
mansion of Woodhead ; and is the seat of the Hon.
Charles Spencer Bateman Hanbury Kincaid-Lennox
(b. 1827), M.P. for Herefordshire 1852-57 and for Leo-
minster 1858-65. He married the heiress of Lennox
Castle in 1861, and assumed her name ; and he holds
7606 acres in the shire, valued at £8924 per annum. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 30, 1866.

Lennox Hills, a range of hills extending cast-north-
eastward along the middle of the ancient county of
Lennox, from the vicinity of Dumbarton to the vicinity
of Stirling. It is interrupted, in Strathblane parish, by
the valley of the Blane, but is elsewhere continuous.
The portion of it WSW of the interruption is called the
Kilpatrick Hills, and the portions ENE of the interrup-
tion are called the Strathblane, the Killcarn, the Fintry,
the Gargunnock, the Campsie, the Kilsyth, and the
Dundaff Hills ; and all these, with their ])rincipal char-
acters and altitudes, are separately noticed. The range
has an aggregate lengtli of 23 miles ; varies in breadth
from 4i to 9 miles ; culminates in Earl's Seat at an alti-
496

LENY

tude of 1894 feet ; consists chiefly of various kinds of
trap, containing great i^lenty of rare minerals ; and in
many parts displays romantic features of glen, ravine,
cliff, and basaltic colonnade.

Lennoxlove, a seat of Lord Blantyre, in Haddington
parish, Haddingtonshire, 1\ mile S of Haddington
town. Anciently called Lethington, it belonged to the
Maitland family from 1345, and was the birth-place of
John Maitland, Duke of Lauderdale (1616-82), and long
the chief residence of him and of other members of the
line. About the beginning of the 18th century it passed
by sale to Alexander, Lord Blantyre, and was named by
him Lennoxlove in honour of the Duchess of Lennox,
who gave him the means of purchasing it. It is partly
a building of high antiquity, its square tower (80 feet
high, with walls from 10 to 13 feet in thickness) being
unsurpassed in strength and height by any similar
structure in Scotland. A Latin inscription over the
massive N door of grated iron records that this tower
was improved in 1626 by John Maitland, Earl of Lauder-
dale. In Haddingtonshire Lord Blantyre holds 2953
acres, valued at £6421 per annum. — Ord,. Sur., sh. 33,
1863. See Erskine and John Small's Castles and Man-
sions of the Lothians (Edinb. 1883).

Lennoxtown, a town in Campsie parish, Stirlingshire,
on the left bank of Glazert Water, with a station on
the Campsie and Blane Valley section of the North
British railway, 9^ miles SE of Killearn, 3^ NNW of
Kirkintilloch, and 11| N by E of Glasgow. Founded a
century since, it has always been in great measure de-
pendent on print-works, bleachfields, alum-works,
collieries, and other industrial establishments in its
vicinitj^, and mainly consists of one long street, whose
plain two-story houses j)resent an unassuming but cleanly
and comfortable appearance. It serves as the centre of
traffic for all the numerous and various factories in
Campsie parish, and has a post office under Glasgow,
with money order, savings' bank, and telegraph depart-
ments, branches of the Royal Bank and of the National
Securitj'^ Savings' Bank, 10 insurance agencies, 3 hotels,
a gas company, a water suj^ply of 1876, a town hall, a
mechanics' institution, and educational, horticultural,
and agricultural societies. A sheriff small debt court is
held on the fourth Thursday of February, May, August,
and November. Places of worship are Campsie parish
church (1828 ; 1550 sittings), with a square tower; a
Free church, built soon after the Disruption ; a U.P.
church (1784 ; 593 sittings); and St Machan's Roman
Catholic church (1846 ; 400 sittings). The public,
Oswald, and a Roman Catholic school, with respective
accommodation for 312, 170, and 204 children, had
(1882) an average attendance of 178, 75, and 152, and
grants of £161, 2s., £75, 19s. 6d., and £118, 17s. Pop.
(1841) 2820, (1861) 3209, (1871) 3917, (1881) 3249, of
whom 1676 were females. Houses (1881) 694 inhabited,
96 vacant— Orf^. Sur., sh. 31, 1867.

Lentran, a station on the Highland railway, in Kirk-
hiU parish, Inverness-shire, close to the southern shore
of the Ijcauly Firth, 5| miles W by N of Inverness.
Near it is Lentran House.

Lentrathen. See Lintrathen.

Lenturk. See Lyxturk.

Leny, a mansion and a mountain pass in Callander
parish, Perthshire. The mansion, 1 mile NW of Cal-
lander village, in a small romantic glen with a water-
fall, was enlarged and beturreted towards the middle of
the present century. Its owner, John Buchanan Hamil-
ton, Esq., F.R.S., of Bardowie and Spittal (b. 1822),
holds 3330 acres in Perth, 582 in Stirling, and 150 in
Dumbarton shires, valued at £1334, £926, and £220
per annum. The Pass of Leny, 2^ miles WNW of
Callander, strikes north-by-westward to Loch Lubnaig;
takes up the Callander and Oban railway ; is traversed by
tlie impetuous northern head-stream of the Teith ; and
has a narrow, alpine character, flanked by wooded preci-
pices, and overhung on the W side by the bold acclivi-
ties of Ben Ledi (2 875 feet). It formed in olden times
a portal to the Highlands, so strong that a few brave
men could have held it against an army, and is de-

LENZIE

scribed by Sir Walter Scott in his Legend of Montrose. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 38, 1871.

Lenzie, a southern suburb of Kirkintilloch, partly in
Kirkintilloch parish, Dumbartonshire, and partly in
Cadder parish, Lanarkshire, with a junction on the
Korth British railway, IJ mile S of Kirkintilloch, 41
miles W of Edinburgh, and 6^ NNE of Glasgow, under
which it has a post office, with money order, savings'
bank, and telegraph departments. Of recent and rapid
extension, it is the seat of the Barony Lunatic Asylum,
erected in 1875 at a cost of £150,000 on the Woodielee
estate of 167 acres, which was purchased by the Barony
Parochial Board in 1852 for £9-357. Elizabethan in
st5de, the building is over 700 feet long and 450 broad,
occupj-ing 6J acres of ground. There are two central
towers 150 feet high, a clock-tower of 88 feet above the
main entrance, and a fleche surmounting the chapel,
which is seated for 400, and adorned with stained glass.
The dining-hall can also accommodate 400 persons ; and
the recreation-hall measures 90 feet by 60, the kitchen
60 by 35. Another institution is the Glasgow Convales-
cent Home (1864). An Established church, built as a
chapel of ease in 1873, was raised to quoad sacra status
in 1876 ; a U.P. church, erected in 1874-75 at a cost of
£3300. contains 450 sittings ; and St Cyprian's Epis-
copal church (1873) contains 200. The quoad sacra
parish is in the presbytery of Glasgow and synod of
Glasgow and Ayr ; its minister's stipend is £450. Pop.
of parish (1881) 2292, of whom 852 were in Cadder ; of
village (1871) 351, (1881) 1316, of whom 495 were
patients in the Barony Asylum, 68 in the Convalescent
Home, 648 in Kirkintilloch police burgh, and 573 in
Cadder.— 0/t/. Sur., sh. 31, 1867.

Leochel Bum, a troutful rivulet of central Aberdeen-
shire, rising as Corse Burn in the N of CouU parish at
an altitude of 970 feet above sea-level, and winding 9£
miles north-by-eastward through or along the borders
of Leochel, Tough, and Alford parishes, till, after a
descent of 510 feet, it falls into the Don, 4 naile above
Alford hvidge.—Ord. Sur., sh. 76, 1874.

Leochel-Cuslmie, a parish of central Aberdeenshire,
comprising the ancient parishes of Leochel and Cushnie,
united temporarily in 1618, permanently in 1795. Its
chui'ch stands, 1029 feet above sea-level, 6 miles SW of
the post-town and station, Alford. It is bounded NW
by Kildrummy, N by Alford, NE, E, and SE by Tough,
S bj' Coull and Tarland-Migvie, and W by Towie. Its
utmost length, from E to W, is 7^ miles ; its breadth,
from N to S, varies between 2| and 4^ miles ; and
its area is 12,859i acres, of which 3J are water. The
drainage is carried northward to the Don by Leochel
Burn (running 3f miles north-north-westward along
the Tough and Alford boundaries and through the in-
terior) and by its affluents — Rumblie Burn (flowing 2 J
miles east-by-southward along the Coull boundary), the
Burn of Ccshxie (flowing 4J miles east-north-eastward
through the interior), and Droichs Burn (tracing part of
the northern boundary). The surface is hilly, sinking
in the extreme N to 500 feet above sea-level, and rising
thence to 1468 feet at Langgadlie Hill, 1723 at Scar
Hill, and 2032 at Sochaugh or Cushnie Hill, which cul-
minate respectively on the northern, western, and south-
western boundaries. Granite is the predominant rock ;
and the soil of the valleys is clayey for the most part
but in places a fine alluvium, of some of the hill-slopes
is a fertile loam. Nearly half of the entire area is in
tillage ; about 1150 acres are under wood ; and the rest
is either pasture or moor. Cairns and stone circles were
at one time numerous, and several ' eirde ' or ' Pict's
houses' have been found on Cairncoullie farm. Ceaigie-
VAR Castle, Cushxie House, Hallhead House, and
Lyxtuek House are all noticed separately ; and Sir
William Forbes, Bart., divides most of the property
with 4 lesser proprietors. Ecclesiastically including the
Corse or northern division of Coull, Leochel-Cushnie
is in the presbytery of Alford and synod of Aberdeen ;
the living is worth £260. The parish church, built in
1798, contains 500 sittings. The Free cliureh, a con-
joint charge with Towie, stands 9 furlongs WSW of the

LERWICK

parish church ; on the NE verge of the parish is Lyn-
turk U.P. church ; and four public schools — Cairncoullie,
Corse, Craigievar, and Cushnie — with respective accom-
modation for 60, 90, 140, and 96 children, had (1882) an
average attendance of 40, 76, 55, and 83, and grants of
£42, 7s., £70, 6s., £49, lis. 6d., and £78, 15s. Valua-
tion (1860) £4919, (1882) £8176, 6s. 6d. Pop. (1801)
668, (1831) 1077, (1861) 1173, (1871) 1232, (1881) 1217.
—Ord. Sur., sh. 76, 1874.

Leod. See Castle-Leod.

Lerwick (Scand. Lcir-xik, 'mud bay'), a parish con-
taining a town of the same name, towai-ds the S of the
Mainland of Shetland. It is bounded NE and E by
Bressay Sound between the Mainland and Bressay, SE
by the sea, SAV by the portion of Bressay parish now
forming the quoad sacra parish of Quarfi", and W and
NW by the parish of Ting\vall. Except along the coast,
the boundaries are artificial. The sea coast is deeply
indented : on the NE a bay extends from Grimista to
Lerwick, 1 mile wide across the mouth, and f mile deep ;
S of Lerwick is Brei Wick, 6i furlongs across the mouth,
from the Nab (NE) to Ness of Sound (SW), and | mile
deep. To the SW is the Yoe of Sound, | mile A\-ide from
Dainaberg (NE) to the Nizz (SAV), and IJ mile deep ;
and further to the SAV still is Gulber AA'ick, § mile wide
and 1 mile deep ; while on the extreme S is the East Yoe
of Quarfi', the northern shore of which is in Lerwick.
The Sound of Bressaj' and the Bay of Lerwick is one of
the finest anchorages in the United Kingdom. The
gi-eatest length of the parish, from NNAV to SSE, at the
head of East A''oe of Quarfi", is 6^ miles ; and the greatest
width, from the projecting point SE of the burgh of
Ler\rick to the Hill of Fitch, is 2| miles, but the aver-
age Aridth is only about 1| mile. The land area is 5653
acres. From the sea-coast the surface rises steeply to
a height of over 100 feet on the N, and over 200 in
the centre and S, the highest points being 346 feet on
tlie border of the parish to the SAV of Grimista, 273 at
AA^ard of Lerwick NW of the town, 576 at Shorloun Hill
AA'' of Sandy Loch, near the centre of the parish ; 258
at the highest point between Sandy Loch and Trebister
Loch, 365 at the highest point on the road to the SW of
Sandy Loch, 244 to the W of Setter Ness, and 217 on
the surface of Brindister Loch. Only a very small
portion of the parish is arable, and this lies along the
coast, where the soil is light and sandy, but faudy good ;
elsewhere there is rock and peat moss. Except on the
extreme S, where mica schist comes in, the imderlying
rocks belong to the Lower Old Red period, and consist
of sandstones, fiagstones, and conglomerate, of which the
first is quarried. As elsewhere throughout the Shetland
Islands, there are a number of small lochs, the principal
being Clickhimin or Cleek-em-in, SW of the burgh of
Lerwick, separated from Brei AAlck by a shingle teiTace
or ' ayre ;' Sandy Loch and Trebister Loch, W of the A^'oe
of Sound ; Brindister Loch in the S ; and Gossa AVater
on the boundarj- Avith Tingwall. Clickhimin derives its
name from a whisk}--shop that once stood near it, and
was supposed to entice or ' cleek ' people into it. Brin-
dister Loch has a small island, with the remains of a
broch, and said to be a breeding-place of the lesser black-
backed gull. There is another broch at Burland, on the
coast to the E ; and a tliird, with some very peculiar
features, is on a little circular islet of about 150 feet in
diameter in Clickhimin. This last was excavated in
1861, when a number of stone vessels were found. The
drainage of the parish is effected by a number of small
streams, the principal being two entering the sea near
the pier at Grimista, the burns that flow into Sandy and
Trebister Lochs and thence to the A'oe of Sound, one
that enters the head of Gulber AVick, one from Brindister
Loch, and one in the SAA^ that flows to Fitch Burn
in Tingwall parish. Besides Lerwick burgh, the parish
contains also the hamlet of Sound, at the head of Voe
of Sound. The inhabitants of Sound are very primitive,
and are at deadly feud Arith the people of Lerwick. The
churches are noticed in the following article. Five
schools — Gulberwick public, Lerwick first piiblic, Ler-
wick infant public, Lerwick Educational Institute, and

497

LERWICK

LetTvick Episcopalian — with respective accommodation
for 65, 162, 140, 194, and 87 scholars, had (1882) an
attendance of 44, 154, 133, 77, and 42, and grants of
£30, 18s., £118, 16s., £98, £61, 15s., and £28, 15s.
The parish is the seat of the presbytery of Lerwick in
the synod of Shetland, and the living is worth £193
a year. Gremista, 2 miles NNW of the town of
Lerwick, is the only mansion and the largest estate in
the parish, belonging to the Nicolson family. There
are five other principal landowners, besides a number
of feuars. Valuation, inclusive of the burgh, (1881)
£9340. Pop. (1801) 1706, (1831) 3194, (1861) 3631,
(1871) 4180, (1881) 4772, of whom 3854 were in the
burgh, 191 on board ship, and 727 in the landward
part of the parish, while 2141 were males and 2631
females.

The presbytery of Lerwick, meeting at Lerwick as
circumstances require, includes the quoad civilia parishes
of Bressay, Dunrossness, Lerwick, and Tingwall, the
quoad sacra parishes of Quarff and Sandwick, and the
mission stations of Fair Isle and "WTiiteness, the latter
being a ro3-al bounty station. Pop. (1871) 13,047,
(1881) 13,051, of whom 2778 were communicants of the
Church of Scotland in 1878.

Lerwick, a burgh of barony, a police burgh, and the
chief town and county town of Shetland, stands on
Bressay Sound, near the extreme E of the parish just men-
tioned. By road it is 4 miles SE of Tingwall, 6 ENE of
Scalloway, 21| N by E of Sujibitegh Head, 42^ S by W
of Balta Sound in Uxst, and 115 NE of Kirkwall, by
reference to which its distance from places further S may
be ascertained. The sheltered landlocked bay must
certainly have been used to a large extent from very
early times, and there was in all probability from a very
early date a village on or near the site of the present
town, but of this there seems to be now no trace left,
unless it be in the nan'ow and inconvenient main street.
The present burgh, notwithstanding its very quaint and
ancient appearance, which makes it look older than many
places of thrice its age, dates only from the early part of
the 17th centiir}". Mention is made of it in 1625, in an
'Act anent the demolishing of the lioussis of Lerwick,'
when the sheriff of Orkney and Shetland gave orders
that, in consequence of the great wickedness of every
sort that was going on among the Shetlanders and the
Dutch who resorted to the Sound in the prosecution of
the herring fishing, all ' the houssis of Lerwick, quhilk is
a desert place,' should be demolished. Desert probably
refers to the condition of the country in the neighbour-
hood, and as indicating the worthy sheriff's opinion that
there was no need for a town in such a place. But in
spite of this, and though the houses then standing were
probabl}' destroyed, the natural law of supply and
demand was not to be interfered with, and the suit-
ability of the place as the natural centre for the islands
was very soon again acknowledged, for in the time of
Charles II. , during the first Dutch war, a fort was built
and a garrison of 300 men stationed here to protect the
place against the Hollanders, and probably also to attack,
if need be, the Dutch herring-busses. (See Shetland.)
On the conclusion of peace, the garrison was withdrawn
and the fort dismantled ; and when the war was renewed
a Dutch frigate very soon visited the bay and took ad-
vantage of this defenceless condition by destroying the
buildings of the fort, and burning a considerable portion
of the town. In 1640 the part of the Sound opposite
was the scene of a conflict between 10 Spanish war ships
and 4 Dutch ones ; and in 1653 and 1665 the fleet of the
Commonwealth, consisting of over 90 ships, lay at
anchor off the town for several days ; while during the
continental wars at the beginning of the following
century a good deal of damage was done on several
occasions by French privateers. Paul Jones was in the
bay, but is said to have been frightened away by the
sight of the red petticoats of the women going to market
on the Nab. The story is very doubtful, but at all
events he did no harm. Since then Lerwick has grown
Blowly, and though vast improvement has taken place
since 1850, many of the arrangements are still somewhat
498

LERWICK

old-fashioned. The town, like so many of those on the
Scottish coast, consists mainly of one long narrow street,
following all the windings of the shore for a distance of
about 5 furlongs. This is bounded on the W by a high
bank, up whicli are a number of lanes leading to a road
along the ridge towards the docks. At the N end of
the town is Fort Charlotte, and further N still is the
headland known as North Ness, to tho W of which are
the docks, where ship-repairing and boat-building are
carried on. At the E end of the town are the Widows'
Asylum and the Anderson Institute ; and on the high
ground to the AV is the district known as Newtown,
occupied by modern houses built within the last twenty
years. Though it is no longer true of the main street
that it knows nothing of cart or carnage, and is seldom
trodden by anything heavier than a shelty laden with
turf, yet it is still very narrow and inconvenient ; and
though the houses are mostly good, in the older part of
the town they straggle very much, and present gable or
front or corner to the street, just as was most convenient
to the builder at the time.

Fort Charlotte is the headquarters of the Pioyal Naval
Reserve for the N, and one of the most important of all
the stations on the coast of the United Kingdom, both
as regards the number of men and their superior
physique. Exercise is engaged in with two 6^ ton guns,
and shooting practice is obtained at the North Ness with
converted 64 pound Palliser guns. The town-hall and
the county buildings stand side by side on the highest
part of the ridge above the old town. The former was
erected in 1882-83, the foundation-stone being laid by
the Duke of Edinburgh on 24 Jan. 1882, and the
opening ceremony presided over by Sheriff Thorns on
30 July 1883. The front elevation shows a central
gable with turrets at the angles and side wings. In
the gable is the chief entrance by an arched doorway ;
and above the main staircase is a clock and bell tower
rising to a height of 72 feet, with battlements and corner
turrets. Over the windows are the coats of arms of
various peers who are, or have been, connected with the
district. Over the lower windows from N to S are the
arms of the Earls of Zetland and Morton with a Viking
dragon ship in the centre ; those of the Earl of Orkney
and of Baron Sinclair, with the Norwegian lion in the
centre ; of the Stewarts and of the Earl of Caithness,
with the Scottish lion ; of Bothwell, Duke of Orkney,
and of Earl Rosslyn, with the Orcadian galley ; while over
the oriel windows are the arms of the town of Lerwick
newly granted by the
Lyon King-at-Arms.
These are 'Or,' in a
sea proper, a dragon
ship vert under sail,
oars in action ; on a
chief gules a battle-
axe argent. Above
the shield is placed a
suitable helmet with
a mantling gules
doubled, and on a
wreath of the proper
liveries is set forth
the crest, a raven pro-
per, and in an escrol,
over the same, this
motto, ' Dispcda est

Thulc' On the ground floor are the burgh court-room
(24 X 30 feet) witli magistrates' rooms and police cells,
and the custom-house and inland revenue offices, etc.
Occupying the whole of the front of the first floor is the
town-hall, 60 feet long, 30 wide, and 25 high, with tim-
bered ceiling. There is accommodation for 500 persons.
In front it is lit by an oriel and muUioned windows, in
the S end by muUioned and traceried windows, and in the
N end by a large wheel window with lancets below. The
windows are of stained glass representing various jiersons
and incidents connected with the history of the Shet-
lands, and presented by various donors, including the
councils of Amsterdam and Hamburg. In the corridor

Seal of Lereick.

LERWICK

are panels -n-ith the arms of Glasgow, Edinburgh, Leith,
and Aberdeen presented by the respective corporations,
and of Dundee and Kirkwall presented respectively by
Messrs Strong and Peace. There is also a presentation
portrait of Sheriff-substitute Eampini painted in 18S3.
Behind are retiring rooms and a public reading and
news room, and on the next story are two smaller halls.
The cost, exclusive of gifts, was £4500, and the stained-
glass -windows alone have cost £1200 more. The old
town-hall dated from the end of the 17th century.
The new county buildings, close to the town-hall, were
erected in 1872. The building occupied by the Com-
mercial Bank was erected in 1871, and that occupied
by the Union Bank, which was built in 1872, and is
Scottish Baronial in style, contains not only the laanking
offices and the agent's house but also shops. A sailors'
home and institute, opened in 1871, principally through
the exertions of Mr Macgregor of Roh Roy fame, was a
failure, as the men of the naval reserve for whose use it
was mainly intended preferred to lounge on the streets.
There are Established, Free, United Presbyterian, "Wes-
leyan Methodist, Congregational, Baptist, and Episcopal
churches, but except that the Established church has an
organ none of them call for more particular notice.
Education is provided by a public school under the
parish board, by the Anderson Institute — which, as well
as the Widows' Institute that stands beside it, was
erected and endowed by the late Mr Arthur Anderson,
long chairman of the directors of the Peninsular and
Oriental Company, and for a short time il.P. for
Orkney and Shetland, of the latter of which counties he
was a native — and by a school in connection with the
Episcopal church. Water and drainage works were
carried out in 1871 after plans by Messrs Leslie of
Edinburgh at a cost of about £6000. For the former,
the level of Sandy Loch was raised 2 feet by means of
an embankment, and a reservoir and filter beds were
constructed, but notwithstanding this the water is very
dark coloured and muddy. A new cemetery has been
formed to the SSE at the Nab.

With the exception of woollen knitted goods, which
are noted for their softness and warmth, the trade of
Lerwick is principally connected with its position as a
centre of distribnrion among the whole group of islands ;
with the herring and white fishing, for both of which it
is a centre, the number of herring boats fishing from it
being about 300 ; and with its being a place of rendezvous
and call for the ships sailing from Abeedeex, Dundee,
Peterhead, and Hull to the seal and whale fishing.
Communication is kept up by steamers from Leith and
Aberdeen, which make Lerwick their northern terminus.
Fjom 1838 till 18.58 there was only a weekly steamer
from April to October, but in the latter year it began
to ply all the year round, and since 1866 the number
of vessels has been increased to two in summer and
one in winter. A local steamer sails weekly to Unst,
Yell, and Duurossness. The harbour is near the
centre of the town on the E, and is at present (1883)
being largely extended. The roadstead is excellent,
the soundings over a considerable area being 9 fathoms,
but the old harbour consisted merely of a quay called
the Victoria Wharf, running eastward for 110 feet
with a spur to the X at the seaward end. The depth at
the point was, however, only 8 feet at high water, so that
the steamers of the North of Scotland and Orkney and
Shetland Steam Navigation Company could not get
alongside, and goods and passengers had to be landed
in boats. An act of parliament for the improvement of
the pier was obtained in 1877-78, but, the Treasury
having refused a loan to carry out the works, nothing
was done till 1883, when a fund of £15,000 having been
raised partly by loan and partly by subscription, the
harbour trustees contracted for new works to cost
£12,700, and the foundation-stone was laid on 2 Aug.
with full masonic honours — the first occasion of the
sort in Shetland. The new pier, formed of concrete, is
to run out 220 feet from the Victoria Wharf, with a
width of 55 and a depth of 18 feet at high water at the
sea end, and 14 feet at its junction with the present

LESLIE

quay, the depths at low water being 4 feet less. Twenty
thousand cubic yards of silt are to be removed from the
harbour bottom, and an esplanade with, a minimum
width of 25 feet is to be formed for 120 yards S of
Victoria Wharf and 420 to the N of it. At the S end of
this a whan 50 feet long is to be formed for boats and
small vessels, and another jetty is to be built to protect
the boat harbour. The engineer is Mr W. Dyce Kay, and
the works are to be earned out in the manner that was
employed with such success at Aberdeen harbour works.
The present harbour revenue is about £400, but when
the improvements are completed it is expected to rise
to £1200. Harbour affairs are managed by a board of
12 trustees.

The following table shows the ships belonging to the
port at diff"erent periods : —

Sailixg Vessels.

1 Steamers.

Tear.

Number. ' Tonnage.

Number. Tonnage.

1S61, . .
1S71, . .
ISSl, . .

1SS3, . .

74
87
77

67

2722
3701
3615

2981

1

i'
1

1 1

1

64
116

116

And the trade may be estimated from the tonnage of
the vessels entering and clearing (including repeated
voyages) with cargoes or in ballast in the same years : —

Entered.

Cleared.

Year.

British. Foreign.

Total.

British.

Foreign.

TotaL

1867, .
1871, .
1S82, .

26,418 2192
29,516 2799
69,1SS 3703

23,610
32,315

72,896

23,145

27,054
67,058

2161
2408
3599

25,306
29,462

70,657

In 1882 the British tonnage inwards was carried in 450
vessels, and the foreign in 32. The fiishery statistics
are given under Shetland.

Lerwick has a head post oSice, with money order,
savings' bank, insurance, and telegraph departments,
branches of the Commercial and Union Banks, agencies
of 11 insurance companies, a gas company, a masonic
lodge (Morton, No. 89), a choral society ; and at an
annual regatta in August, one of the most interesting
features is a race between boats rowed by girls from the
islands of Bressay, Burra, and Trondra. The inhabi-
tants of the islands and of many of the parishes and
districts in Orkney or Shetland have 'tee' or nick names :
the epithet applied to the inhabitants of Lerwick is
'Whitings.' The town was visited by the Duke of
Edinburgh (then Prince Alfred) in the Raccoon in 1863,
and again in 1882, on his tour as inspector of naval
reserves. Burghal matters are managed by a senior
maf^istrate, 2 junior magistrates, and 8 commissioners.
The sheriff-substitute for the county resides here, and a
sheriff court is held every Wednesday during session ;
while justice of peace, ordinary, and small debt courts
are held as required. There is a cattle market in
Auoaist on the Monday before Kirkwall. Valuation
(1883) £9340. Pop. (1831) 2750, (1861) 3061, (1871)
3516, (1881) 4045, of whom 2206 were females, and 3854
were in the police burgh. Houses (1881) 514 inhabited,
5 vacant, 2 building.

Leslie, a hamlet and a parish of central Aberdeenshire.
The hamlet stands, 546 feet above sea-level, on the S
bank of Gadie Bum, 4 miles SSW of Insch, under which
it has a post office.

The parish is bounded N by Kennethmont, NE by
Insch, E by Premnay, S by Keig and TuUynessle-Forbes,
and W and NW by Clatt. Its utmost length, from E
to W, is 3 miles ; its utmost breadth, from N to S, is
2| miles ; and its area is 4446^ acres, of which 2| are
water. Gadie Burn, famous in song, runs 2^ miles

499

LESLIE

eastward across the middle of the parish, then 9 fur-
longs along the Premnaj' border ; and in the extreme
E the surface declines to 524 feet above sea-level, thence
rising to SOO feet at GaUow Hill, SOO at the Hill of
Newleslie, 1181 at Salters Hill, 1355 at Knock Saul, and
1362 at Suie Hill, the last three of which rise close to
or on the southern boundary. The rocks include ser-
pentine, felspar, quartz, etc. ; and the soil of the northern
division is a light yellowish loam with a gravelly sub-
soil and a rocky bottom, of the southern division is a
rich loam overlj-ing clay, but moorish and heathy on
the higher hills. Less than half of the entire area is in
tillage ; wood covers but a small proportion ; and the
rest "is either pastoral or waste. Leslie Castle, or the
old House of Leslie, on the Gadie's N bank, opposite
the hamlet, is now a ruin. It was founded in 1661 by
"William Forbes of Monymusk, whose father had acquired
the barony through marriage with the widow of the last
of the Leslies, its possessors since the 12th century. Of
a stone circle and a pre-Reformation chapel the sites
only remain. The property is divided between two.
Leslie is in the presbytery of Garioch and synod of
Aberdeen ; the living is M'orth £219. The parish church,
at the hamlet, was built in 1815, and contains nearly
300 sittings. Duncanstone Congregational church (1818)
stands 2 4 miles NNW ; and Leslie and Premnay Free
church, 5 mile E by N, just within Premnay parish.
The public school, with accommodation for 98 children,
had (1882) an average attendance of 62, and a grant
of £50, 13s. Valuation (1860) £2693, (1882) £3279,
lis. lOd. Pop. (1801) 367, (1831) 473, (1861) 577, (1871)
532, (1881) 523.— Ord. Sur., sh. 76, 1874.

Leslie (Gael. lis-Lexcn, ' garden on the Leven ') is a
parish, containing a small post-town of the same name,
at the middle of the western border of Fife. The town,
situated near the SE border of the parish, is distant 12
miles E from Kinross, 12 SW from Cupar, 9 NW from
Kirkcaldy, and 3 W from Markinch, to which it is
joined by a branch line of railway, 4^ miles long, which
wa'S opened in 1861, and became a part of the Xorth
British railway system in 1872. Carriers' carts ply
between Leslie, Kirkcaldy, and Slarkinch ; and an
omnibus runs between it and the last-mentioned place.
The town consists mainly of one long street of irregu-
larly-built houses, situated on the top of a steep bank,
and overlooking the valley of the Leven. Its position
is picturesque, and its beauty is not interfered with by
the presence of the mills, in which the majoritj' of the
inhabitants work, as these stand on the river at a little
distance from the town. The to^\'n green is a fine open
expanse at the E end of Leslie. It was once used for
games and sports, and even, it is said, for buU-fights, a
stone still existing to which were fastened the animals
intended to fight, and hence called the 'Bull-stone.'
In the High Street are the town-hall, built in 1872 at
a cost of £1000, and containing one room 72 feet long
by 40 broad, with two ante-rooms ; the parish church,
built in 1820, renewed about 1872, and having accom-
modation for 850 people ; the Free church, rebuilt in
1879; 2 U.P. churches, the East and West; and a
Baptist church, founded in 1880. Two public schools,
called the East and West, with respective accommoda-
tion for 250 and 550 children, had (1882) an average
attendance of 217 and 489, and grants of £172, 19s. 4d.
and £427, 17s. 6d.

Leslie has a head post-office, with the usual depart-
ments, a branch of the Union Bank of Scotland, agents
for 9 fire and life insurance companies, an institute and
library of about 1000 volumes, a young, men's Chris-
tian association, a ploughing societj', and clubs for
skating, bowling, etc. The chief hotel is called the
Green Inn. The Leslie Cemetery Company was incor-
porated in 1862-67, and the Leslie Joint Stock Water
Company in 1833. It possesses a capital of £600, and
has paid 7h per cent, of dividend. The water, which is
excellent and plentiful, is brought from Balgothrie, the
Countess of Rothes and the late Hon. LIrs Douglas of
Strathendry having been mainly instrumental in intro-
ducing it. The gas company has £1877 of capitaL
500

LESLIE

Fairs are held at Leslie on the first Tuesday after 11
April and the first Friday in October.

The chief industries carried on in Leslie (town and
parish) are spinning, bleaching, and paper-making.
There are 3 flax-spinning works, the most extensive of
which at Prinlaws emploj's a large number of ' hands. '
Two of these also engage in bleaching. There are 2
paper-mills — Fettykil (started in 1848-49, and greatly
improved of late years) and Strathendrj^ Besides 2
paper machines, the former has also several bag and
label machines, the last being almost unique iu Scot-
land. It employs about 200 hands, of whom nearly 70
are females. Strathendry Paper Mill has 1 paper ma-
chine, employs from 70 to 80 workers, and makes
writing papers. The municipal government includes 2
bailies, 1 chancellor, fiscal, treasurer, and town-clerk.
Eight police commissioners were appointed under the
General Police Act, and 1 of these acts as first magistrate
and 2 as junior magistrates. Pop. (1861) 3607. (1871)
3743, (1881) 3852, of whom 1637 were males and 2216
females, whilst 2341 were in Leslie proper, 259 in
Croftouterly, and 1253 in Prinlaws. Houses (1881) 823
inhabited, 52 uninhabited, and 4 building.

The parish of Leslie is bounded N by Falkland, E by
Markinch, S bj^ Kinglassie, andAVby Kinross-shire. The
Leven traces the southern boundary, and two small
streams, the Lothrie and the Cammie, drain the interior
of the parish. Its greatest length, from W by N" to E
by S, is 5 miles ; its breadth varies between 7 furlongs
and 2f miles ; and its area is 5028 acres. The western
side of the parish includes part of the Lomond range,
and rises near Drumain to 1060 feet above sea-level.
The northern border is also hilly, attaining 898 feet near
Little Balgothrie, 766 at Rhind Hill ; and so is the
ground on both sides of the Lothrie Burn. Along the
Leven the gi'ound is generally much lower than in other
parts of the parish ; and at Cadham declines to 258 feet.
From W to E there is a gradual upward slope, and in
the lowlands the ground is, as a rule, highly cultivated
and covered with fields, M'hile in the uplands it is com-
monly pastoraL Trap rock abounds in the W and IST,
and has been extensively used for building. Limestone
and coal are found in the E, and are worked on a small
scale. The soil is mainly alluvial, or a mixture of sand
and gravel. About three-fourths of the entire area are
in tillage, some 312 acres are under wood, and the rest
is either pastoral or waste. A^arious antiquarian re-
mains, as standing-stones, etc. , have been discovered on
the hills of this parish, which is said to have been the
scene of some severe fighting between the Romans and
ancient Britons. Its records extend back for 300 years,
but do not contain anything noteworthy. David Pit-
cairn, M.D. (1749-1809), chief among medical men of
his day in London, has been claimed as a native. The
Rev. Ebenezer Erskine (1680-1754) acted for a time as
tutor in the Rothes family ; and Adam Smith (1723-90),
the author of the Wealth of Nations, when a child of
three, was kidnapped from Strathendry by a band of
Gipsies, but recovered by his uncle in Leslie Wood.
The chief proprietors are the Countess of Rothes, the
heirs of the Hon. Mrs Douglas of Strathendry, and Bal-
four of Balbirnie. The connection between the Rothes
famil}'- and Leslie has always been a close one. Their
family name is Leslie, and it has been said that the dis-
trict was called after them, Leslie having been known
as Fettykil till 1283, when Norman de Leslie obtained
a grant of its woods and lands from Alexander III. In
1457 George Leslie of Rothes was created first Earl of
Rothes ; and his fifteenth descendant, Henrietta-Ander-
son-Mosshead Leslie, fourth Countess in her own right
(b. 1832; sue. her brother, the twelfth Earl, 1859),
holds 3562 acres in Fife, valued at £7343 per annum.
Her seat, Leslie House, as built by the Duke of Rothes,
who was Lord Chancellor of Scotland in the reign of
Charles II., was originally a large mansion, quadran-
gular in form. Three sides were burnt down in 1763,
and the fourth, when repaired, was made the dwelling-
house, and still exists as such. Externally it is a plain
building, with no particular architectural features ; but

LESMAHAGOW

the interior is comfortable, and the principal rooms are
fine. Notably so is the picture gallery, hung with
family portraits, and 3 feet longer than the gallery at
Holyi'ood. The grounds around Leslie House are most
picturesque. Strathendry House is separately noticed.

This parish is in the presbytery of Kirkcaldy and
synod of Fife. The living is worth £-325, lis. 2d.,
made up of £257, Is. 2d. for stipend, £35 for manse,
£27 for glebe, and £6, 10s. for communion elements.
A mission church, under the control of the Established
church, has been organised, and an old school adapted
to serve as a place of worship. Valuation (1865)
£14,386, 18s. 2d., (1883) £19,251, lis. 2d. Pop. (1801)
1609, (1831) 2749, (1861) 4332, (1871) 4294, (1881)
4345. — 0/T?. Sur., sh. 40, 1867.

Lesmahagow (anc. Lesmachutc or Lcsniahagu, 'the
green (Z/») or court {lys) of St Machutus or Maclou'), a
parish in the NW of the Upper Ward of Lanarkshire,
containing the town of Abbey Geeen or Lesmahagow,
6 miles SW of Lanark, llf SSE of Hamilton, 22^ SE of
Glasgow, and 38 SW of Edinburgh.

The parish is bounded NW by Stonehouse and Dalserf,
NE by Carluke and Lanark, SE by Carmichael and
Douglas, SW by Muirkirk in Ayrshire, and W by Avon-
dale. The boundaries with Avondale, Douglas, and Car-
michael are traced respectivelj' by Kype Water, Peniel
Water, and Douglas Water ; and the Clyde flows 1 0 miles
north-north-westward along all the Lanark and Carluke
boundarj-. From NNE to SSW Lesmahagow has an
utmost length of 10^ miles ; its utmost breadth, from
E to W, is 9J miles ; and its area is 41,533J acres, of
which 234f are water. Besides Abbey Green, it con-
tains the thriving villages of Auchenheath (2 J miles N
of Abbey Green), Bankend, Boghead, Crossford (5|
miles XE of Abbey Green), Hazelbank, Kirkfieldbank,
Kirkmuirhill (2| miles NNW of Abbey Green), Nethan-
foot, New Trows, and Tnrfholra. The Xethan, rising
close to the Ayrshire border at an altitude of 1550 feet,
winds 13 miles north-north-eastward through the in-
terior to the Clyde at Crossford, and itself is joined by
Logan Water. The Falls of Clyde, though generally
viewed from the Lanark side of the river, can be also
seen from the Lesmahagow side. Corra Linn is opposite
Corehouse ; Bonnington Linn is \ mile above ; and
Stonebyres Linn 4 miles below. The scenery on the
banks of the Clyde and its tributaries is among the
finest in Scotland, its chief charm being its great
variety of wood and water, hill and valley. In the
extreme N the surface declines along the Clyde to 190
feet above sea-level ; and thence it rises to 624 feet near
Drafi'an, 1017 at Dillar Hill, 1075 near Boreland, 1108
at Auchrobert Snout, 1254 at Tod Law, 1712 at Nut-
berry Hill, and 1609 at Meikle Auchinstilloch. The
parish is traversed by a branch line (1856-57) of the
Caledonian railway, which has stations at Lesmahagow,
Blackwood, and Auchenheath ; and by Telford's great
highway (1824) from Glasgow to Carlisle. Cross roads
Intersect it in all directions, and are commonly narrow
and hilly.

Lesmahagow is chiefly a mining parish. Coal is
found in large quantities, but irregularly disposed. A
fine kind of cannel coal is worked. Sandstone, lime-
stone, and ironstone are also found. Lead ore has been
discovered, but not in sufficient quantities to repay
working. The predominant rocks are trap, and, from
their variety and the fine fossils found in them, are of
an interesting character. Near the streams the soil is
commonly alluvial. In other places, however, it is
either a yellow clay resting sometimes on white sand-
stone, or a light friable mould resting on trap, or a
damp, mossy, or sandy gravel. About 23,887^ acres
are regularly or occasionally in tillage ; 27144 are under
wood or plantation ; and 4889J are pastoral or waste.
Fruit-growing is carried on to an extent which almost
raises it to an industry. Large fields are covered with
strawberry plants, anci in the summer and autumn the
pear and apple harvest demands the whole labour of the
villagers to secure it. The chief landowners are the
Duke of Hamilton and J. C. Hope Vere, Esq. of Black-

LESMAHAGOW

wood. Mansions in the parish, noticed separately, are
Auchenheath, Auchlochan, Birkwood, Blackwood, Core-
house, Harperfield, Kersc, Kirkfield, and Stonebyres.

This parish is in the presbytery of Lanark and synod
of Glasgow and k\x. The charge is collegiate, the
stipend of the minister of the first charge being £477,
and that of the minister of the second charge £454.
The parish church, built in 1S04, contains 1500 sittings,
and in 1872 was adorned with a fine stained-glass win-
dow by Messrs Ballantine. A chapel of ease at Kirk-
fieldbank will soon, it is expected, be raised to quoad
sacra status ; and other places of worship are Lesma-
hagow Free church, Crossford Free church, Lesmahagow
U.P. church, Crossford U.P. church, Kirkmuirhill U.P.
church, and a Eoman Catholic church at Blackwood,
Our Lady and St John (1880 ; 200 sittings). Thirteen
schools — all of them public but two, with total accom-
modation for 2289 children, had (1882) an average
attendance of 155-3, and grants amounting to £1465,
18s. 8d. Valuation (1859) £43,475, Is. 8d., (1883)
£67,011. Pop. (1801) 3070, (1821) 5592, (1841) 6902,
(1861) 9266, (1871) 8709, (1881) 9949, of whom 1386
were in Abbey Green, 963 in Kirkfieldbank, 816 in
Crossford, 612 in Auchenheath, 547 in Kirkmuirhill,
467 in Southfield and Blackwood, and 319 in Hazel-
bank.— Orr?. Sur., sh. 2.3, 1865.

Hiring fairs are held on the second Wednesday of
March and October ; the May fair is held on the first
Wednesday after 11 May ; Lammas fair takes i>lace on
the Wednesday after the Lanark fair and on the Tues-
day before the second Thursday of November ; market
days are the first Wednesday of December and the
second Wednesday of January. There are police sta-
tions at Lesmahagow, Blackwood, Crossford, and Kirk-
fieldbank ; post offices at Abbey Green (or Lesmahagow),
Kirkmuirhill, Kirkfieldbank, and Crossford, the first two
having monej' order, savings' bank, and telegraph de-
partments. Numerous insurance comjianies have agents
at Abbey Green, where there are also the headquarters
of clubs for curling, bowling, etc. , and societies of dif-
ferent kinds. Dr Whyte's mortification for the ' de-
cayed and modest poor ' amounts to £2700, the interest
of which is divided half-yearly as directed. The interest
on the sum of £100, left by Dr Hamilton, is employed
in the education of deserving childi'en living within 3
miles of Abbey Green.

St Machute or Maclou is said to have been a fellow-
voyager with the famed St Brendan in the 6th century ;
and in the 14th Lesmahagow seems to have possessed at
least a portion of his relics. It is likely that be-
tween 1100 and 1120 a colony of Tironensian Bene-
dictines built a church here ; for in 1144 David I.
granted the ' cell of Lesmahagow ' to the monks of
Kelso, and raised it to the dignity of a Tironensian
priory. This priory served as a sanctuary to all those
who, ' in peril of life or limb, ' betook themselves to it
or to the four crosses that stood around it. Various
gifts of land, teinds, and money were presented to it by
David I., Eobert, son of Wanebald, Kobert the Bruce,
Lord Somerville, etc. Charters of protection and im-
munity were granted it by William the Lyon in 1222
and 1230. The priory suffered very severely in the
invasion of 1335. John of Eltham, brother of Edward
III., and commander of part of the English forces,
burned it to the gi'ound as he passed Lesmahagow on
his way northward. He met the king at Perth, and an
altercation having arisen, John of Eltham — Earl of
Cornwall — was slain by his brother's hand. This, as
Wyntoun points out, was —

' The vengeance tane perfay
Of the burning of that abbey.'

On the Reformation the priory lands passed into secular
hands, and were successively held by James Cunning-
ham, son of the Earl of Glencairn ; Francis Stewart,
son of John Stewart, afterwards Earl of Bothwell ; and
by Lord, afterwards Earl of, Roxburgh, who held them
from 1607 to 1625, when he disposed of them to the
Marquis of Hamilton. The extent of the lands and

501

LESMOBE

the value of the property belonging to the priory are
shown by the rental at the Reformation, It consisted
of £1214, 4s. 6d. Scots ; 15 chalders, 8 bolls, 1 firlot,
2 pecks here or barley ; 11 chalders, 8 bolls, 3 firlots
meal ; 4 chalders, 3 bolls oats. The priory ^vas burned
for the second time at the Reformation (1561), but was
restored and served as the parish church until 1803,
when its site was cleared to make room for the present
church. Traces of the older buildings have been
discovered at different times. The priory was famed
for its gardens, which shows that, then as now,
fruit was extensively grown in the district. The
most interesting object in the parish is the old Castle
of Craignethan, which has been identified with the
' Tillietudlem ' of Old Mortality. It ' occupies the
summit of a steep bank, encircled on the E by the
"Water of Nethan, on the W by a precipitous rock.'
Sir Walter Scott describes it as having ' no roof, no
windows, and not much wall,' which is by no means a
fair description. The outer wall is still nearly entire,
and sufficient remains of the keep to show its immense
strength. The room once occupied by Mary Queen of
Scots is still pointed out. (See Craignethan.) Corra
Castle is built on the very edge of the river, opposite
Corra Linn. Its chief interest arises from its romantic
situation. Coins, Roman remains, and stone weapons
have been discovered. The bronze Lesmahagow flagon,
found about 1810, and now in the Hunterian Museum,
Glasgow, is ' of the pure egg-shape, \\-ith the inward-
curved neck. It has a handle covered with sj'mbolic
sculpture, representing Mercury in one compartment
and Minerva in another. . . . The natives had
been familiar with a convenient round stepping-stone
which helped them to cross a burn. The stone became
indented, and, on examination, presented the appear-
ance of a hollow piece of oval metal. It was taken up,
and found to be what is above described ' (Hill Burton's
Hist. Scotl, i. 51, edn. 1876). An old bell and the
bronze figure of ' an elephant-necked horse ' are also
among the relics. Ancient mounds were once numerous,
but the stones that composed them have been employed
in l3uilding walls, etc.

The name of Sir William Wallace is connected with
this district, and caves and trees take their name from
him. A cave on the S bank of the Clyde is said to
have been inhabited by him. Many of the Covenanters
who fell at Bothwell Brig belonged to Lesmahagow, and
their monuments are still to be seen in its churchyard.
In 1685 Colonel Runibold, a chief actor in the Rye-
House Plot, was captured by Hamilton of Raploch in
Lesmahagow, where too in 1745 young Macdonald of
Kinloch-Moidart, aide-de-camp to the Pretender, was
seized by a young clergyman called Linning, and a
carpenter named Meikle.

John Wilson (1720-89) was the son of a Lesmahagow
fanner. He spent the greater part of his life in teach-
ing, and held the office of master of the Grammar
School, Greenock, where he died. Wilson is remem-
bered as a poet, his chief work being the Clyde (1764).

See Annals of Lesmahagow (Edinb. 1864), by John
Greenshields of Kerse, printed for subscribers.

Lesmore, a ruined castle in Rhjmie parish, Aberdeen-
shire, 2 miles WNW of Rhynie village. It was a
stronghold once of an ancient branch of the Gordon
family.

Lesmore, Argyllshire. See Lismoke.

Lesmurdie. See Cabrach.

Lessendrum, an old mansion, enlarged and repaired
about 1837, in Drumblade parish, Aberdeenshire, 4^
miles NE of Huntly. Its owner, Mordaunt Fen wick
Bisset (b. 1825; sue. 1858), Conservative member for
West Somerset since 1880, holds 2682 acres in Aberdeen-
.shire, valued at £2583 per annum. — Ord. Sur., sh. 86,
1876.

Lessudden. See St Boswells.

Leswalt, a village and a parish in the Rhinns of
Galloway, Wigtownsliire. The village stands 3J miles
NW of Stranraer, under which it has a jiost office.

The parish, containing also the Sheuchan suburb of
502

LETHAM HOUSE

Stranraer burgh, is bounded N" by Kirkcolm, E by Loch
Ryan, SE by Stranraer and Inch, S by Portpatriek, and
W by the Irish Channel. Its length, from NNW to
SSE, varies between 2^ and 5§ miles ; its utmost breadth,
from E to W, is 5^ miles ; and its area is 13,018f acres,
of which 473J are foreshore and 58 water. A number
of brooks, rising in the interior, run some to Loch Ryan,
some to the Irish Channel ; and I'iltauton Burn, issuing
from tiny Gray Loch, winds 5g miles within the parish,
and then goes east-south-eastward to the head of Luce
Bay. Of four small lakes, the largest is the White Loch
(3 X 2^ furl. ), on whose wooded islet stood the ancient
Castle of Lochnaw. The tract adjacent to Loch Ryan
is flat ; but elsewhere the surface has much diversity
of feature, attaining 404 feet at the Tor of Craigoch, 484
at the Craighead of Lochnaw, and 500 at three points in
the SW. The Tor of Craigoch, or Monument Hill, is
surmounted by a conspicuous towei", 60 feet high and
20 square at the base, erected in 1850 to the memory of
Sir Andrew Agnew (1793-1849), and commanding a wide
view. Greywacke is the predominant rock, red sand-
stone also occurs, and both are quarried. The soil is
very various — kindly and fertile in the eastern district ;
greatly improved and enriched by culture in the central
district ; and sandy, gravelly, and otherwise thin and
poor in the western and the soutliern disti'icts. Gal-
denoch's haunted Castle, built towards the middle of
the 16th century, is represented only by its keep, with
one little pepper-box turret. Lochnaw Castle, noticed
separately, is the principal feature of the parish ; and
Sir Andrew Agnew is chief proprietor, one other holding
an annual value of more than £500, and one of from
£50 to £100. Giving off" Sheuchan quoad sacra parish
and taking in a portion of Kirkcolm, Leswalt is in the
presbytery of Stranraer and synod of Galloway ; the
living is worth £200. The plain parish church, built
in 1828, contains 550 sittings. At the village, | mile
to the W, is its ruined ivy-clad predecessor, whose
graveyard has been the Agnews' burying-place from
the 14th century onward. There is a Free church of
Leswalt ; and Larbrex and Leswalt public schools, with
respective accommodation for 55 and 200 children, had
Q882) an average attendance of 33 and 86, and grants
of £34, 18s. and £81, 15s. Valuation (1860) £6942,
(1883) £9483, 14s. 4d. Pop. of civil parish (1801) 1329,
(1841) 2712, (1861) 2701, (1871) 2496, (1881) 2635 ; of
ecclesiastical parish (1881) 1292, of whom 190 belonged
to Kirkcolm.— Ord Sur., sh. 3, 1856.

Letham, a village in Monimail parish, Fife, 5 miles
W of Cupar and 3| N" of Ladybank. It has a post office
under Ladybank, a public school, and a fair on the
second Friday in May.

Letham, a village of Forfarshire, mainly in Dunnichen
but partly in Kirkden parish, on the rivulet Vinney,
6 miles ESE of Forfar and If mile S by W of Auldbar
station. Founded about the beginning of this century by
' honest ' George Dempster of Dunnichen, who dreamed
of making it a city, it has never been much more than
a small agricultural village. Its handlooms and spin-
ning-mill belong to the past ; but it has a post office
under Forfar, a police station, gasworks, two public
schools, a Free church, a Congregational church, and
fairs on 26 May and 23 Nov. Pop. (1841) 745, (1861)
1231, (1871) 953, (1881) 885, of whom 19 were in Kirk-
den.—Ord Sur., sh. 57, 1868.

Lethame House, a mansion in Avondale parish,
Lanarkshire, IJ mile W of Strathaven. Its owner,
Jolm Struthers Napier, Esq. (b. 1844 ; sue. 1865), holds
700 acres in the shire, valued at £646 per annum. —
Ord. Sur., sh. 23, 1865.

Letham Grange, a modern mansion in St Vigeans
parish, Forfarshire, 4 miles NNW of Arbroath. With
the estate around it, it was sold in 1876 for £121,800
to James Fletcher, Esq. of Rosehaugh. — Ord. Sur., sh.
57, 1868.

Letham House, a mansion in Haddington ]iarish,
East Lothian, 2 miles WSW of the town. It is a seat
of Sir T. B. Hepburn, Bart, of Smeaton.— Ord Sicr.,
sh. 33, 1863.

LETHAM HOUSE

Letham House, a mansion in Strathmi^lo parish,
Fife, 4i miles WSW of the town.

Lethangie, a modern mansion in Kinross parish, Kin-
ross-shire, l| mile N by E of the tovra.

Lethanhill. See Dalmellixgtox.

Lethendy, a parish in Stormont district, Perthshire,
whose church stands 4| miles SW of the post-town and
station, Blairgowrie. Since 1806 united ecclesiastically
to Kixi.oCH, it is bounded E by Kiuloch and Blair-
gowrie, and on all other sides by Caputh and detached
sections of Clunie. Its utmost length, from AVNW to
ESE, is 3f miles ; its utmost breadth is Ig mile ; and
its area is 1746§ acres, of which 3§ are water. Lunan
Burn flows 1| mile south-south-eastward along all the
Kinloch and Blairgowrie boundary ; and the surface,
with a gentle westward ascent, varies in altitude from
119 to 501 feet— the former at IJ furiong S by E, the
latter at 3^ furlongs N, of the parish church. The soil
of the western district is black mould, inclining to red-
dish clay, exceedingly rich, and adapted to every crop ;
but eastward grows bleaker, wetter, and less productive.
About 135 acres are under wood, and nearly all the rest
is in tillage. The Tower of Lethendy, 5 furlongs E by
S of the church, is a very old building, earlier, it is
supposed, than the introduction of artillery. Two pro-
prietors hold each an annual value of more, and two of
less, than £500. Lethendy and Kinloch is in the pres-
bytery of Dunkeld and synod of Perth and Stirling ;
the Living is worth £318. A Free church stands 1^
mUe E, a U.P. church f mile NKE, of the parish
church. Kinloch public school, with accommodation
for 95 children, had (1882) an average attendance of 55,
and a grant of £66, 4s. 6d. Valuation (1865) £2352,
5s. lOd., (1SS3) £2732, 13s. Id. Pop. (ISOl) 345,
(1831) 306, (1871) 179, (ISSl) U9.— Orel. Sur., shs.
48, 56, 1868-70.

Lethen House, an 18th century mansion in Auldearn
parish, Nairnshire, near the left bank of the Muckle
Burn, 5 miles SE of Nairn. Comprising a large three-
story centre, with lower wings, and with beautifully
wooded grounds, it is the seat of Alexander Brodie,
Escp (b. 1876 ; sue. 1880), who holds 22,378 acres in
Nairn and 1304 in Elgin shires, valued at £4947 and
£1121 per annum. — Orel. Sur., sh. 84, 1876.

Lethenty, a station on the Old Meldrum branch of
the Great North of Scotland railway, at the western
verge of Bourtie parish, Aberdeenshii'e, 2| miles N of
Inverurie.

Lethington. See LE^•^'oxLOYE.

Lethnot, a parish in the Grampian district of Forfar-
shire, whose church stands near the left bank of West
Water, 5 miles W by S of Edzell and 7S NNW of
Brechin, under which there is a post office of Lethnot.
Since 1723 comprising the ancient parishes of Lethnot
and Navar, the former on the left and the latter on the
right side of "West Water, it is bounded N by Lochlee,
NE by Edzell, SE by Stracathro and Menmuir, SW by
Team and Tannadice, and W by Cortachy. Its utmost
length, from WNW to ESE, is 12 miles ; its utmost
breadth is 4g miles; and its area is 26,326f acres, of
■which 36f are water. The Water of Saughs or West
Water, rising at an altitude of 2680 feet, winds 15
miles east-south-eastward through the interior, then 3^
east-north-eastward along or close to the ilenmuir and
Stracathro border, till it passes off from the parish
on its way to the North Esk 4| miles lower down.
In the SE, where West Water quits the parish, the
surface declines to 295 feet above sea-level ; and chief
elevations to the left or N of the stream, as one goes
up the valley, are the *Hill of Wirren (2220 feet),
♦West Knock (2273), *Cruys (2424), and * White Hill
(2787); to the right or S, Berry Cairn (1433), Tam-
hilt (1759), the *Hill of Glansie (2383), and *Ben Tir-
ran (2939) — where asterisks mark those summits that
culminate on the confines of the parish. Clay slate and
mica schist are the predominant rocks ; blue roofing
slate, of similar quality to that of Easdale, forms a vein
from E to W, and was for a short time worked ; and
limestone occurs, but is of no practical utility. The

LEUCHARS

soil in the lower lands of the valley is partly sandy,
partly clayey, and in some places pretty deep ; but on
the higher grounds is gravelly and much more shallow.
Remains of two small ancient Caledonian stone circles
are at Newbigging and Blairno ; several small tumuli
are on a tract where tradition asserts a skirmish to have
been fought between Piobert Bruce and the English ; and
near Newbigging are remains of the ancient fortalice of
Dennyfern. The Earl of Dalhousie is much the largest
proprietor, 1 other holding an annual value of more, and
1 of less, than £100. Lethnot and Navar is in the
presbytery of Brechin and sj-nod of Angus and Meams ;
the living is worth £188. The parish church, rebuilt
in 1827, contains 250 sittings ; and a public and a girls'
school, with respective accommodation for 52 and 46
children, had (1882) an average attendance of 37 and 17,
and grants of £30, lis. 6d. and £12, 16s. Valuation
(1857) £2716, (1883) £4389, 4s. Pop. (1801) 489, (1841)
400, (1861) 446, (1871) 318, (1881) 288.— Ord. Sur.,
shs. 57, 56, 66, 65, 1868-71.

Letterewe, an estate, with a shooting-lodge, in Gair-
loch parish, NW Ross-shire, on the north-eastern shore
of Loch Maree, 10:^ miles SE of Poolewe. Its late
owner, Meyrick Bankes, Esq. (1811-81), held 69,800
acres in the shire, valued at £2463 per annum. — Ord.
Sur., sh. 92, 1881.

Letterfearn. See Glenshiel.

Letterfinlay, an inn in Kilmonivaig parish, Invemess-
shire, on the SE shore of Loch Lochy, 7| miles N by E
of Spean Bridge. — Orel. Sur., sh. 62, 1875.

Letterfourie, a modern mansion in Rathven parish,
Bantlshire, 3 miles SSE of Buckie. It is the seat of Sir
Robert Glendonwyn Gordon, ninth Bart, since 1625 (b.
1824 ; sue. 1S61), who holds 1720 acres in the shire,
valued at £1982 per annum. The seventh descendant
of the youngest son of the second Earl of Huntly, he is
premier baronet of Nova Scotia, his father having
assumed the baronetcy after the death (1795) of its sixth
holder, Sir William Gordon of Goedoxstowx, who was
ninth in descent from the second son of the second Earl
of Huntly.— Crri. Sur., sh. 96, 1876.

Leuchar Bum, a rivulet of SE Aberdeenshire, issuing
from Loch Skene (276 feet), and flowing 7f miles south-
eastward through or along the borders of Skene, Echt,
and Peterculter parishes, till, after a descent of 195 feet,
it falls into the Dee at Peterculter church. — Ord. Sur.,
shs. 76, 77, 1874-73.

Leuchars, an estate, with a mansion, in Urquhart
parish, Elginshire, 4 miles NE of Elgin.

Leuchars, a \'illage and a parish of NE Fife. The
village stands 1 mile NNE of Leuchars Junction on the
North British railway, this being 5| miles S of Ta\-port,
4i WNW of St Andrews, &\ NE of Cupar, and 40'NNE
of Edinburgh. It is lighted with gas, and has a post
office, with money order, savings' bank, insurance, and
railway telegraph departments. Pop. (1831) 614, (1861)
671, (1871) 523, (1881) 588.

The parish, containing also the villages of BAXirrxLO
and Guard Bridge, is bounded N by Forgan and Ferry-
port-on-Craig, E by the German Ocean, S by the Eden
estuary and river, which separate it from St Andrews
and Kemback, SW bj- Dairsie, and W by Logic. Its
utmost length, from NE to SW, is 8g miles ; its utmost
breadth, from NW to SE, is 4| miles ; and its area is
15,131^ acres, of which 1658| are foreshore and 116
water. " The shore, extending 7^ miles along the Ger-
man Ocean and St Andrews Bay, is flat and sandy, at
no point exceeding 16 feet above sea-level. The Edex
flows 6| miles east-north-eastward along the Kemback
and St Andrews boundary and through St Andrews
Bay, tiU at Eden Mouth it falls into the German Ocean ;
and Motray Water traces 4J furlongs of the Logie
boundary, and then flows 2| mUes south-south-eastward
through the interior, till it falls into the Eden at the
head of St Andrews Bay. In the SW, beyond Balmullo
village, the surface rises to 515 feet at Airdit Hill ; but
most of the parish is almost a dead level, no point to
the E of the railway exceeding 53 feet. Tents Moor
here is an extensive tract of land, covered up with sand,

503

LEUCHARS

and all but useless for agricultural purposes. Trap rocks
prevail on the higher grounds, and have been largely
quarried ; -n-hilst sandstone, of the New Red formation,
occurs near the Eden, but is little suited for building.
The soil of the higher gi-ounds is gravel, soft loam, or
clay ; and that of the low flat lands comprises every
variety, from the poorest sand to the richest argillaceous
loam. Nearly seven-elevenths of the entire area are
regularly in tillage ; plantations cover some 400 acres ;
and the" rest is mostly pastoral or waste. The Rev.
Alexander Henderson (1583-1646), of Covenanting fame,
was minister for more than thirty years ; and Henry
Scougal (1650-78), from 1669 professor of philosophy at
King's College, Aberdeen, has been claimed for a native.
No vestige remains of the ancient Castle of Leuchars, 3
furlongs N of the village. It cro^raed a circular
eminence, the Castle Knowe, the moat round which
enclosed 3 acres of ground, and was crossed by a draw
bridge. It was the residence of the Celtic chief, Ness,
the son of William, whose daughter was married to Robert
de Quiiici ; and it seems to have been the jmncipal
residence of their son, Seyer de Quinci, Earl of Win-
chester, where he held his baronial court, as many of
his charters are dated thence ; and in a dispute with
Duncan, the sou of Hamelin, about the lands of Duglyn,
in the Ochils, he brought Duncan to acknowledge a
release of his claims, in his court, ' in plena, curia meS,
apud Locres.' In 1327 it was taken and demolished by
the English, under the Earl of Pembroke, but was no
doubt s'ubsequently rebuilt. In 1808 an earthen vase,
containing nearly a hundred well-preserved coins of
Severus, Antoninus, and other Roman emperors, was
found on Craigie Hill. Three pre -Re formation chapels
were in the parish — one at Easter Tron, another near
Airdit House, and the third on the site of the parish
school. Airdit, Earlshall (1546-1617), Pitcullo,
and PiTLETHiE are noticed separately ; and 11 pro-
prietors hold each an annual value of £500 and upwards,
13 of between £100 and £500, 3 of from £50 to £100,
and 15 of from £20 to £50. Leuchars is in the presby-
tery of St Andrews and synod of Fife ; the living is
■worth £385. The parish church, containing 850 sit-
tings, is less ' complete than that of Dalmeny, but has
originallj' been a nobler edifice. Indeed, there are few
finer specimens of pure Norman work than the semi-
circular apse, with its two arcades, the upper one having
the richness of its effect increased by square piers
between the pillars. The windows have been filled up,
but their outline is distinctly traceable. A band of
corbels, carved into grotesque heads, running along
above the higher arcade, will reward attention. Among
the subjects which the fantastic stone-cutter has specially
indulged in are a ram's head with its horns and a
muzzled bear — a phenomenon but rarely seen, one
would think, in Scotland in the 12th century. It is
easy to notice on the wall traces of the original height
of the apse. The ecclesiastical antiquary is not inclined
to thank those who have built a somewhat imposing
belfry above it — an ornament not entitled by old rule to
occupy such a position. The next compartment still
presei'ves its original Norman character, and is con-
spicuous for an interlaced arcade, of that kind which,
according to the theories of some antiquaries, suggested the
idea of the pointed arch. The Norman features die away,
as it were, into the western compartment of the church,
which is entirely bald and modern ; and it is sometimes
difficult to say whether the stones with zigzag and toothed
mouldings retain their original position, or have been
built, as so many old stones lying about, into new walls.
In the interior there appear through the plaster traces
of a large semicircular arch, which had perhaps divided
the nave from the choir. Within the apse a great part
of the original arching has been removed, but enough
remains to show its character.' There is also a Free
church ; and two public schools, BalmuUo and Leuchars,
with respective accommodation for 132 and 251 children,
had (1882) an average attendance of 67 and 184, and
grants of £52, 8s. and £159, 15s. Valuation (1865)
£18,247, 17s. Id., (1883) £22,115, 2s. 9d. Pop. (1801)
504

LEVEN

1687, (1831) 1869, (1861) 1903, (1871) 1727, (1881) 2185.
—Ord. Sur., sh. 49, 1865. See T. S. Muir's Descriptive
Notices of Ancient Parochial and Collegiate CliurcTies of
Scotland (Lond. 1848), and vol. iii. of Billings' Baroiiial
and Ecclesiastical Antiquities (Edinb. 1852).

Leuchie House. See Berwick, North.

Leukopibia. See Whithorn.

Leurbost, a village in Lochs parish, Lewis, Outer
Hebrides, Ross-shire, on a small sea-loch of its own
name, 8 miles SSW of Stornoway. Pop. (1861) 436,
(1871) 537, (1881) 654.— OrcZ. Sur., sh. 105, 1858.

Leven, the name of an old ruined castle and also of a
modern mansion, the two standing close to one another,
in Innerkip parish, Renfrewshire, on the sea-shore 2 miles
SW of Kempock Point, in Gourock. The castle comprises
two quadrangular towers about 30 feet high, and with
very thick walls. Till 1547 it belonged to a branch of
the Mortons, but at that date it passed into the hands
of the Sempills, and is now the property of the Shaw-
Stewarts.

Leven, a river issuing from the SE end of the loch just
mentioned, and flowing eastward for 1|^ mile in Kinross-
shire, and 14| miles in Fifeshire, to the Firth of Forth
at the town of Leven on the W side of Largo Bay,
passing through the interior or along the boundaries of
Portmoak, Leslie, Kinglassie, Markinch, Kennoway,
and Scoonie parishes, and with its tributaries draining
a basin of 97,920 acres. From the N it receives Arnot
Burn, Lothrie Burn, and Kennoway Burn ; and from
the S the river Ore with Lochty Burn. Where not
checked by mill-dams, it has a rapid current, and is, in
its upper reaches, pure and soft, and being particularly
suitable for the purposes of bleaching and paper-making,
many mills for these purposes have been long established
on its banks. There are also a few along the Ore, and
at Cameron Bridge, about a mile below the junction,
there is a very large distillery. Prior to the establish-
ment of the mills it was a good trouting stream, but
that is now at an end. Along some parts of its course
there is pretty scenery. The artificial nature of the
first 3 miles of the channel has been noticed in the last
article.— OrfZ. Sur., sh. 40, 1877.

Leven, a town in Scoonie parish, Fife, on the NE
side of the mouth of the river just described. It has a
station on the Leven and East of Fife section of the
North British Railway system, from Thornton Junction
to Anstrutlicr, and is by rail 26 miles NNE of Edin-
burgh, 17 NE of Burntisland, 10| NE of Kirkcaldy,
6 E by N of Thornton Junction, and 13^ Why S of
Anstruther. Originally a small weaving village of
some antiquity, and a burgh of barony, it has since
developed into a seaport and centre of manufactures of
considerable importance. It includes the hamlet of
Scoonieburn, and is separated by the Leven river from
the village of Inverlevcn or Dubbieside in the parish of
Markinch. It is a police burgh, having in the begin-
ning of 1867 adopted the General Police Act of 1862.
There are three principal streets with cross streets, but
the town is irregularly built, though there are some good
houses, particularly towards the links to the E, where
there are a number of villas. The road to Inverleven
crosses the river by a handsome stone bridge. The har-
bour ranks as a creek under Kirkcaldy port, and prior
to 1876 was sirajily the natural inlet at the mouth of
the river, difficult of access, but admitting vessels of
300 tons to a small quay built about 1833. Under the
Leven Harbour Act, however, of 1876, a new wet dock,
a river wall, a protection wall, and a railway siding,
were constructed at a cost of £40,000, and opened in
1880. The dock is 500 feet long and 250 broad, and
has 16 feet of water on the sill at ordinary tides. Vessels
of 800 tons can now be loaded, but financially the scheme
has not been successful, and the trust has disposed of
the works to the proprietor. The ne^v docks to be erected
at Methil will probably still farther lessen the trade.
The principal imports are flax and tow, barley, timber,
pig-iron, and bones ; and the principal exports — coal,
linen, and linen-yurn, whisky, bone-dust, cast-iron, and
potatoes.

LEVEN

The industries of the place are flax-spinning, linen-
weaving, and seed-crushing, while in the neighbourhood
there are extensive foundries, bone-dust and corn mills,
bleach -fields, brick-works, and rope-works. The public
halls are the town-hall, with accommodation for 600,
and the Gardeners' hall, with accommodation for 400.
There is also a drill-hall. The People's or Greig Insti-
tute is an institution akin to a mechanics' institute, and
is due to a popular movement begun in 1871. The first
building occupied was an old U.P. church, but in 1872-
73 the present two-story structure, containing a library,
a reading-room, a billiard-room, bath-rooms, and a class-
room, etc., was erected by public subscription, at a cost
of £2000. The name was given in honour of JMr Greig
of Glencarse, who gave the site and subscribed £1000
to the building fund. The Established church — the
parish church of Scoonie — in Durie Street, was erected
in 1775, enlarged in 1822, and had a new porch added
in 1883 ; it contains 1000 sittings. The Free church,
in Duiie Street, is a handsome building, erected in
1861 at a cost of £3100 ; the U.P. church, in Durie
Street, is a good building, erected in 1870 at a cost
of £2150, and containing over 600 sittings. There
is also a U.P. church in Inverleven. The Episcopal
church (St Margaret of Scotland), in Blackwood Place,
is an Early English building of 1880, with 200 sittings.
There is an organ, and the tower contains four bells
Under the school board, the Leven public school, with
accommodation for 571 pupils, had in 1882 an attend-
ance of 479, and a grant of £410, 2s. Leven has a head
post office, with money order, savings' bank, and tele-
graph departments, offices of the Royal, National, and
Commercial Banks, and agencies of 14 insurance com-
panies, a hotel, a battery of artillery volunteers (8th
Battery 1st Fife), a masonic lodge, t\vo golf clubs, a
bowling club, a curling club, a gas company, and a
musical association. A water supply was introduced
in 1867. There are fairs on the second "Wednesday
of April 0. s., and on the second Thursday of July,
the latter and the two following days being the
time of the annual holidays. The fast days are the
Thursday before the second Sunday of June, and the
Thursday before Sunday with full moon nearest 1 Dec.
Burghal matters are managed by a senior magistrate,
a junior magistrate, and six commissioners. Sheriff
small debt circuit courts for the parishes of Largo,
Scoonie, Kennoway, Wemyss (with the exception of the
town and suburb of West "Wem5'ss), the village of Inver-
leven, part of Markinch parish, and the quoad sacra
parish of Milton in Markinch, are held on the Friday
after the second Mondays of January, April, and July,
and the Friday after the first Monday of October. The
place gives the title of Earl of Leven in the peerage of
Scotland, the first earl being General Alexander Leslie,
in 1641. The title is now united with that of Mel-
ville. Pop. , inclusive of Inverleven, (1841) 1827, (1871)
2501, (1881) 3067, of whom 1441 were males and 1626
females. Houses (1881) 672 inhabited, 37 vacant, 11
building.

Leven, a small stream and a sea-loch on the mutual
border of Argyll and Inverness shires. Issuing as the
Black Water from little Lochan a' Chlaidheimh (1145
feet) at the meeting-point of the counties of Argyll,
Inverness, and Perth, the stream flows 16J miles west-
ward, through a chain of lochs — Loch a' Bhaillidh,
Lochan na Salach Uidhre, and Loch Inbhir (992 feet)
— and falls into the head of Loch Leven. The scenery
along the basin is wild and romantic, particularly at the
wild glen of the falls of Kinlochmore. There is excellent
trout-fishing, which is, however, preserved. The loch
extends llf miles westward fi'om the mouth of the river
to Loch Linnhe at its junction with Loch Eil, and varies
in breadth from | furlong to 2J miles, being very narrow
in its upper half, but widening out at Invercoe, where
Glencoe opens on it fi'om E by S, and the river Coe
enters it. The scenery, more particularly along the
western part, is very M-ild. 'It is with justice,' says
Dr MaccuUoch, ' that Glencoe is celebrated as one of the
wildest and most romantic .specimens of Scottish scenery ;
69

LEVEN, LOCH

but those who have written about Glencoe forget to
write about Loch Leven, and those who occupy a day
in wandering from the inns at Ballachulish through
its strange and rocky valley, forget to open their eyes
upon those beautiful landscapes which surround them
on all sides, and which render Loch Leven a spot that
Scotland does not often exceed, either in its interior lakes
or its maritime inlets. From its mouth to its further
extremity, this loch is one continued succession of land-
scapes on both sides, the northern shore being accessible
by the ancient road which crosses the Devil's Staircase,
but the southern one turning away from the water near
the quarries [of Ballachulish]. The chief beauties, how-
ever, lie at the lower half, the interest of the scenes
diminishing after passing the contraction which takes
place near the entrance of Glencoe, and the furthest
extremity being rather wild than beautiful. ' The Devil's
Staircase is the name given to the portion of the old
road from Tyndrum to Fort William, which is at the E
end of the loch. — Ord. Sur., shs. 54, 53, 1873-77.

Leven, a river of Dumbartonshire, carrying the
surplus water from Loch Lomoxd to the Firth of
Clyde. It leaves the loch at the extreme S end, imme-
diately to the E of Balloch pier, and takes a very winding
south-by-easterly coiirse to the Clyde at Dumbarton,
passing through the parish of Bonhill and along the
boundary between the parishes of Dumbarton and Car-
dross. Measured in a straight line, its length is 5| mUes,
but there are so many windings that the real course is
7\. The fall from the loch to the mouth is only 23 feet,
and the discharge is about 60,000 cubic feet per minute.
The tide flows up for about 3 miles. The scenery along
its whole course was formerly very soft and pretty, and
in some reaches it is so still ; while the valley, about
2 miles broad, is rich and fertile. Pennant described it
as ' unspeakably beautiful, very fertile, and finely
watered ; ' and its beauty has also been sung by Smollett,
whose paternal estate of Bonhill is on its banks, in his
Ode to Levc'ii Water, where he addresses it as

' Pure stream, in whose transparent wave
My youthful limbs I wont to lave ; '

but the transparency is, alas, now gone. The purity and
softness of the water fits it admirably for bleaching and
dyeing purposes, and the banks of the river have accord-
ingly become spotted with a continuous series of print-
fields, bleach-fields, and dye-works, particularly in con-
nection with turkey-red dyeing. After washing the
villages or towns of Balloch, Jamestown, Alexandria,
Bonhill, and Renton, which are on its banks, and in the
neighbourhood of which these industries are carried on,
the stream is no longer so pure as it might be, though
it is to be hoped that at no distant date there will
again be considerable improvement. The fishing used
formerly to be good, and notwithstanding the pollution,
salmon, sea-trout, river-trout, perch, pike, eels, and
floimders are still occasionally to be got, though salmon
and sea-trout die in the eflbrt to ascend, unless the river
be in flood. The half mile of the course below Dumbarton
may be navigated by vessels of fair size, and a considerable
amount of ship-building is carried on along the banks.
The only tributary of any size is the Murroch Burn
from the E, which enters half-way between Renton and
Dumbarton.— Ord Sur., sh. 30, 1866.

Leven, Loch ('lake of the leamhan,' or elm-tree), a
lake in the SE of the county of Kinross and lying
wholly in the parish of Kinross, though the parishes
of Orwell and Portmoak skirt its N, NE, S, and
SW parts. The general outline may be described as
an irregular oval lying from NW to SE, and with a
wide square-mouthed bay opening obliquely otf on the
SW side towards the burgh of Kinross, or it may be de-
scribed as heart-shaped, with the broad end which has
the right-hand lobe larger than the left-hand lobe to the
NW, and the small end to the SE. The length from
the extreme NW to the mouth of the river Leven is 3|
miles, and the width at the broadest part, midway be-
tween Castle Island and St Serf's Island, is 2 miles. The
bay already mentioned on the SW side measures 5 mile

505

LEVEN, LOCH

on a line across the mouth due N of the point E of the
burgh of Kinross, and extends the same distance to the
W of this line. It probably occupies a rock basin with
its true margin obscured by drift. The depth, except
close inshore, varies from 10 to 20 feet, but reaches, in
some places, 90 feet ; the mean height of the water above
sea-level is 353 feet ; and the area is 3406 acres. It was
formerly considerably larger, the length being 4 miles,
the width 3, and the extent about 4506 acres, but, in
1826, an Act of Parliament was obtained in order to
allow a depth of 9 feet to be dealt with, 4^ feet being
drained entirely, and benefiting the surrounding proprie-
tors, though principally on the E side, to the extent of
about 1100 acres, while other 4 4 feet was to be given up
to the mill-owners along the river to form a reservoir
entirely under their own control, and compensating
them for the supply that might be lost by the drainage
operations. The land reclaimed is sandy and not very
valuable, but the storage operations prevent the excess
of winter-rain from flowing off in heavy and destructive
floods as was formerly the case. The quantity of water
stored up when the surface of the loch is at its full
height is about 600,000,000 cubic feet, and this, with
what is constantly added by inflowing streams, is suffi-
cient, except in very dry seasons, to provide a regular
supply of 5000 cubic feet per minute. The loch receives
the drainage of almost the whole of Kinross-shire, the
basin of which it receives the rainfall being, above the
sluices at the opening of the river Leven, 39,204 acres,
over which the average rainfall is about 36 inches. The
principal streams that enter it are the North Queich, at
the NW end ; the Ury Burn, N of Kinross ; the South
Queich and Gelly Burn, S of Kinross ; and Gairney
Water, W of St Serf's Island ; and the surplus water is
carried ofi" by the river Leven, which issues from the
SE end. The drainage operations were carried out be-
tween 1826 and 1836 under the superintendence of the
late Mr Jardine of Edinburgh, and the lowering of the
level of the water was effected by cutting at a very low
level a new course for the river Leven — this, known as
the ' New Gut,' extends from the end of the loch for 3
miles down the river in a straight line to Auchinmoor
hridge, and the regulation of the flow of the stored water
is managed by powerful sluices erected at the point
where the river leaves the loch. The total cost was
about £40,000. There are seven islands, of which the
largest is St Serfs Island, f mile from the SE end, which
measures 5 by 4 furlongs at the widest part, and has an
area of about 80 acres. The next largest is Castle Island,
J mile E of the projecting point on which the old church
of Kinross stands, which measures 2 furlongs by 1, and
has an area of about 8 acres. Close to it are three small
islands— Eeed Bower to the S, Eoy's Folly to the SW,
and Alice's Bower NW, while about 3 furlongs N is
Scart Island, and f mile N by E of the latter is a small
nameless island near the NW end of the loch. The
island of St Serf receives its name from the ruins of a
priory, the church of which had been dedicated to St
Serf or Servanus, who lived about the beginning of
the 8th century. The first foundation must have
been made either by himself or by some of his fol-
lowers soon after his death, for, according to the
Ticgister of St Andrcics, the island was given by Brude,
king of the Picts, in the early part of the 9th century,
to God, St Servan, and the Culdee hermits serving God
there ; and the possessions of the community were in-
creased by various grants from different kings and from
some of the bishops of St Andrews between 1039 and
1093. Other benefactors also aided them till the early
part of the 12th century, but in the course of the
(|uarrcls as to rule and discipline that then raged, they,
like all the other bodies of the older Scottish church,
had the worst of the battle, seeing that their foes were
backed by all the weight of the royal power. Prior to
961 the brethren had given up the island to the
bishop of St Andrews, so long as he should provide
them with food and raiment ; and in 1144, or shortly
after, Bishop Robert handed the island and all their other
possessions over to the newly founded order of Canons
506

LEVEN, LOCH

Regular of St Andrews. Some resistance was probably
made to this arbitrary proceeding, since King David
granted a charter conferring the island on the canons of
St Andrews, that their order might be instituted in the
old monastery. Any of the Culdees who chose to re-
main and live canonically were to be allowed to do so,
but those who resisted were at once to be expelled from
the place. Many of the brethren were probably driven
out, and the canons of St Andrews held the place till
the Reformation, and the lands passed into the posses-
sion of the Earl of Morton. A list of the books belong-
ing to the Culdee community has been preserved in the
Register of St Andreivs. They were — a pastorale, a
gradual, a missal, the works of Origen, the Sentences of
St Bernard, a treatise on the sacraments, a portion of
the Bible, a lectionary, the Acts of the Apostles, the
Gospels, the works of Prosper, the Books of Proverbs,
Ecclesiastes, and Canticles, a Gloss on the Canticles, a
book called Interpi-etationes Dictionum, a collection of
sentences, a commentary on Genesis, and selections of
ecclesiastical rules. The pi'iory is also known as the
priory of Loch Leven, or the priory of Portmoak, the
latter still being the name of the adjacent parish, and
said to be derived from the first abbot, St Moak. The
prior at the beginning of the 15th century was Andrew
Wyntoun, author of The Orygynale Gronykil of Scotland,
and the work was written here. The ruins were ex-
plored and the foundations laid bare in the end of 1877,
when the remains of two bodies, supposed to be those of
St Ronan and Graham (first bishop of St Andrews), were
found within the area. The island is grassy, and afl"ords
pasture for a few sheep and cattle. The Castle Island
was considerably increased in size by the drainage opera-
tions, and it was even feared that it would be joined to
the mainland and lose its classic associations, more par-
ticularly as an ancient causeway extends from it imder
water to the shore. When or for what purpose this was
formed is not known, but so continuous and high is it
that in a dry season, when the lake is at its lowest, a
man can wade along it from end to end. There is said
to have been a stronghold here at a very early period,
built by Congal, the son of Dongart, king of the Picts,
and part of the present strength must be of considerable
antiquity. During the minority of David II. it was
held for him by Allan de Vipont and James Lamby,
citizens of St Andrews, and was besieged by part of
Baliol's forces under John de Strivilin. The English
leader first erected a fort on the point where Kinross
churchyard is, and tried thence to batter the castle ;
but, his efl'orts being in vain, he next tried by means
of a bulwark of stones and trunks of trees to stop the
narrow opening by which the Leven rushed out of
the lake, so that the castle on the island might be
laid under water. The water began slowly to rise,
and success seemed certain, but, on 19 June 1335,
while the English leader and the greater portion of his
soldiers were at Dunfermline celebrating the festival of
St Margaret, the defenders took advantage of the oppor-
tunity, attacked the barrier and broke part of it down,
when the water rushed out with such force that it over-
whelmed and whirled away a number of the English
soldiers who were encamped on that side. The castle,
however, derives its chief interest from its associations
with Queen Mary, this being the place selected as her
prison after the surrender to the confederate lords at
Carberry. One of the Douglasses had obtained a grant
of the lands and loch in 1353, and at this time the
castle was held by Sir Robert Douglas, a near kinsman
of the famous James, Earl of Morton, and stepfather of
James, Earl of Murray, afterwards the regent. It was
probably on account of this relationship that he was
selected for such an important duty, and the Queen
was consigned to his care on 17 Juno 1567. On 24
July following she was visited by Lord Ruthven, Lord
Lindsay of the Byres, and Sir Robert Melville, in name
of the Confederates, and was by them forced to sign a
deed of abdication resigning the throne to her infant
son, wlio was five days thereafter crowned at Stirling
as James VI. The scene that then occurred, as well

LEVEN, LOCH

as the subsequent escape of the Queen, are graphic-
ally described in Scott's Abbot. On 15 Aug. it was
again the scene of a stormy meeting, when Kegent
Mun-ay, in a conference that lasted ' until one of the
clock after midnight . . . did plainly, without
disguising, discover unto the queen all his opinion of
her misgovernment, and laid before her all such dis-
orders as either might touch her conscience, her honour,
or surety, ' and still farther ' behaved himself rather
like a ghostly father unto her than like a councillor.
Sometimes the queen wept bitterly, sometimes she
acknowledged her unadvisedness and misgovernment ;
some things she did confess plainly, some things she
did excuse, some things she did extenuate.' In conclu-
sion, the Earl of Murray left her that night ' in hope of
nothing but of God's mercy, willing her to seek that as
her chiefest refuge. ' Next morning she ' took him in
her arms and kissed him, and showed herself very well
satisfied, requiring him in any ways not to refuse the
regency of the realm, but to accept it at her desire.
"For by this means," said she, " my son shall be pre-
served, my realm well governed, and I in safety, and in
towardness to enjoy more safety and liberty that way
than I can any other ; " ' and after he had accepted the
fatal post ' she embraced him very lovingly, kissed him,
and sent her blessing unto the prince her son by him,'
and they parted to meet again at Langside (see Glas-
gow). On 2 May 1568 Mary effected her escape by
the aid of a youth of eighteen, named Willy Douglas,
and possibly a kinsman of the family. A previous
attempt concerted by George Douglas, a son of Sir
Eobert, and made on 25 April, had been frustrated ;
but George, who had early fallen under the power of
the queen's fascination, and had been sent away from
the castle, continued to hang about the neighbourhood,
till, at last, the younger Douglas, having stolen the
castle keys while Sir Robert was at supper, a fresh eS"ort
was made and was successful. ' He let the queen and a
waiting-woman out of the apartment where they were
secured, and out of the door itself, embarked with them
in a small skiff", and rowed them to the shore. To pre-
vent instant pursuit he, for precaution's sake, locked
the iron grated door of the tower, and threw the keys
into the lake. They found George Douglas and the
Queen's servant, Beaton, waiting for them, and Lord
Seyton and James Hamilton of Orbieston in attendance,
at the head of a party of faithful followers with whom
they fled to Niddrie Castle, and from thence to Hamil-
ton ' (see Glasgow and Tekregles). The boat, accord-
ing to tradition, landed on the lands of Coldon on the
S side. The keys were recovered during the present
century and presented to the Earl of Morton. The
Earl of Northumberland also, after his rebellion in
England and his capture in Scotland, was confined in
Lochleven Castle from 1569 to 1572, when he was
delivered up to Elizabeth and sentenced to death. The
castle and courtyard occupied a considerable portion of
the old area of the island ; and the garden occupied
most of the remainder. In 1840 the courtyard was
cleared of weeds and most of the ruins of accumulated
rubbish. The great tower or keep of the castle, dating
probably from the beginning of the 16th century, stood
at the NW corner of the courtyard, next Kinross, and
■was four stories high, with walls 6 feet thick. The
entrance was on the second story, and had been gained
by a temporary staircase that could be removed in time
of danger. The door opened at once into the great hall
which occupies the whole of this story, and within the
doorway and at the entrance to the hall is a square
opening leading to the dungeon below. The two upper
stories seem to have been bed-chambers. The court-
yard was surrounded by high walls, protected at the
corners by towers. The turret on the SE is pointed
out, though merely on vague tradition, as the place of
Queen Mary's confinement. The chapel was on the W
side to the W of the keep. The whole island is now
prettily wooded. The scenery round the loch is very
fine. Across the level ground to the NE rise the green
Ochils, while on the E is Bishop Hill (1492 feet), and to

LEWIS

the S the well-wooded Benarty Hill (1167), both rising
steeply from the edge of the loch with a dignity not
always seen even in much loftier mountains ; while to
the W of Benarty are the woods of Blaikadam, where
the idea of the Abbot occurred to Scott.

The loch has long been noted for trout of a delicate
colour and very fine flavour, for even in the time of
Charles I. in 1633 an Act of Parliament was passed for
the protection of fish spawning in any of the inflowing
streams within five miles of their mouth ; and Defoe,
in his Journey through ScotloMcl (1723), declares that
the ' lake is full of fish, particularly the finest trouts in
the world.' Previous to 1856 the fishing was by nets,
the trouts not generally rising to fly, while now they do
so readily, and are particularly noted for their gameness
and spirit. The season used to be from the beginning
of January to the end of September, but since 1811 it
has ceased at the end of August, and rod-fishing, now
the only method of capture employed for trout, does not
begin till 5 Feb. , but the length of the .season is fixed
by the proprietor. The average take of trout with nets
was about 11,000 lbs. a year, and since rod-fishing
began it has varied considerably. In 1873 it was
13,394 lbs., in 1877 as low as 6352 lbs., in 1880, 19,383
lbs., in 1882, 9018 lbs., and in 1883, 14,062 lbs.
Last season (1882) 60,000 fry and 4000 two-year old
trout, from Sir James Gibson Maitland's breeding
ponds (see Howietoun), were placed in the inflowing
streams. The trout average a little over 1 lb., but
fish of 2, 3, 4, or 5 lbs. are not at all rare, and some
years ago one of 10 lbs. was captured. Besides trout,
the loch also contains perch and pike, the latter,
some of which reach a weight of over 40 lbs., being
destroyed by all means. The fishings are leased by
the Loch Leven Angling Association (Limited), who
keep twenty boats on the loch, the charge being 2s. 6d.
per hour for a boat with one boatman. Curiously un-
like most other places, fishing is best with an E wind,
and almost blank when the wind is in the SW. From
the Douglas family the property passed, in the time of
Charles II., to Sir William Bruce, who erected Kinross
House, and it is now in the possession of Sir Graham
Montgomery.— Ord. Sur., sh. 40, 1877.

Levenwick, a coast village in Dunrossness parish,
Shetland, 4 miles SW of Sandwick.

Levera, an islet of North Uist parish. Outer Hebrides,
Inverness-shire. Pop. (1871) 8, (1881) 11.

Levern Water, a stream of Renfrewshire, issuing from
Long Loch, on the boundary between the parishes of
Neilston and Mearns, near the Ayrshire border, and
ninning 9j miles north-north-eastward through the
parish of Neilston and along the boundary between
Abbey-Paisley and Eastwood, to a junction with the
White Cart, at a point 3^ miles ESE of Paisley. Its
principal affluents are the Kirkton and the Brock Burns,
It exhibits various scenes of sequestered and even
romantic beauty. Before reaching the level ground,
its velocity is very considerable, and there are several
waterfalls. The cascades in Killock Glen form a minia-
ture resemblance of the three celebrated Falls of Clyde.
The greater part of its valley is thickly inhabited by a
manufacturing population, which centres at the villages
of Neilston, Barrhead, and Hurlet. The quoad sacra
parish of Levern is in the presbytery of Paisley and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Its church was built as a
chapel of ease in 1835, and contains 670 sittings.
Levern public, Househill endowed, and NitshOl Roman
Catholic schools, with respective accommodation for
318, 100, and 123 children, had (1882) an average
attendance of 160, 31, and 66, and grants of £110, 9s.,
£25, 2s. 6d., and £42, 16s. Pop. of (7. s. parish (1871)
2413, (1881) 2847, of whom 2702 were in Abbey-
Paisley and 145 in Eastwood.— OrtZ. Sur., shs. 22, 30,
1865-66.

Lewis or Lews, the northern part of the Long Island
or Outer Hebrides, comprising one large island and a
great number of isles or islets. The Long Island con-
sists of two parts, Lewis proper on tlie N and Harris on
the S, which are united to each other by an isthmus

507

LEWIS

6i miles broad. Harris and the isles connected with it
belong to Inverness-shire, and have been fully described
in our article Harris. Lewis iiroper and the islets con-
nected -with it belong to Ross-shire. The islets, except-
ing onl}' the small group called the Shiant Isles, lie
quite close to the coast, and are all very small, and for
the most part uninhabited, so that they do not need to be
separately noticed. The main body of Lewis proper, in
all its statistics, and in many of its principal features,
as well as in most of its minor ones, will be found
described in our articles on its four parishes of Barras,
Lochs, Stornoway, and Uig. We require in the
present article, therefore, to make only a few general
statements.

Lewis proper has somewhat the outline of an equi-
lateral triangle, its base 28 miles broad, each of its sides
nearly 50 miles long, and its apex pointing to the NE.
But the angles at the base are rounded off, and the apex
makes a twist to the N, terminating there in a promon-
tory called the Butt of Lewis. The general surface of
Lewis proper is not so mountainous and rugged as that
of Harris, and has been aptly described as ' an immense
peat, with notches of the moss cut away here and there,
to atl'ord a sure foundation for the inhabitants, and pro-
duce food for their bodily wants. ' The total area is
437,221 acres, of which 417,416 are land; and of this
only 14,362 acres are under cultivation, viz., 2842f under
here or barlej^, 2639J under oats, 3652^ under potatoes,
4676 in permanent pasture, etc. The rest is hill, moor,
and moss, with here and there an undulating tract of
blue clay upon a rocky bottom. On some parts of the
coast the soil is of a sandy nature, tolerably fertile.
The rocky cliffs which form "the Butt rise to the height
of 142 feet, and are broken into very rugged and pic-
turesque forms. The loftiest summits are Mealasbhal
and Beinn Mhor, both which rise to a height of 1750
feet above sea-leveh Gneiss is the predominant rock.
Numerous sea-lochs or elongated ba}'s project far into
the interior on both sides of the southern district, and
in some instances are so ramified that they and the fresh-
water lakes produce, in many parts, a watery labyrinth
with the land. But these sea-lochs afford great quan-
tities of shell-fish ; and the whole coast is very favour-
able for the white fish and herring fisheries. The streams
also abound with trout and salmon. Large roots of
trees have been abimdantly dug up in the bogs, indicating
the ancient existence of an extensive forest ; but in later
times, excepting a small patch in the neighbourhood of
Stomoway, the whole country became utterly destitute
of wood, exhibiting as bleak and almost as hj^perborean
an appearance as the most desolate inhabited tract in
the Arctic seas. Its agi-iculture and its arts also, till
1844, were in a very rude state. It belonged then to
the Mackenzies of Seaforth, but it was purchased for
£190,000 by the late Sir James Matheson, Bart. (1796-
1878) ; and by him no less a sum tl>an £329,409 was ex-
pended in a series of sweeping improvements, which
have greatly changed its character. No instance of im-
provement, in recent times, within the United Kingdom,
has been more striking to the eye of an observer, more
compensating to the proprietor, or more beneficial to
the population. Its details have comprised draining,
planting, road-making, the reforming of husbandry, the
improving of live stock, the introduction of manufac-
tures, and the encouraging of fisheries, all on a great
scale and with good results. The focus of the improve-
ments has been Stomoway and its neighbourhood ; so
that a fuller account of them will fall to be given in our
article on Stornoway. There are only 36 farms in
the Lewis, and most of these are small, their total rental
being only £4828 ; but, on the other hand, there are
2750 fishermen crofters, who together pay £7972, or, on
an average, £2, 183. a-piece. Valuation (1860) £16,944,
(1881) £25,561. Pop. (1801) 9168, (1831) 14,541, (1861)
20,570, (1871) 23,483, (1881) 25,487, of whom 13,471
were females, and 23,747 Gaelic-speaking. — Ord. Sur.,
shs. 98, 99, 104, 105, 106, 111, 112, 1858.

The Established presbytery of Lewis, in the synod of
Glenelg, meets at Stomoway on the last Wednesday of
508

LIBBERTON

March and November, and comprises the quoad civilia,
parishes of Barvas, Lochs, Stornoway, and Uig, with
the quoad sacra parishes of Cross and Knock. Pop.
(1881) 25,487, of whom 115 were communicants of the
Church of Scotland in 18S2.— The Free Church presby-
tery of Lewis has 2 churches at Stornoway, and 9 at
Back, Barvas, Carloway, Cross, Kinloch, Knock, Lochs,
Park, and Uig, which 11 together had 8900 members
and adherents in 1883. See W. A. Smith's Lcwsiana;
or, Life in the Outer Hebrides (Edinb. 1875), and an
article by James Alacdouald on ' The Agriculture of
Ross and Cromarty ' in Trans. Highl. and Ag. Soc
(Edinb. 1877).

Ley of Hallyburton, a hamlet in Kettins parish, For-
farshire, 2| miles SE of Coupar-Angus.

Leys Castle, a fine modern mansion in the detached
section of Croy and Dalcross parish, Inverness-shire, 3J
miles SSE of Inverness. Standing 520 feet above sea-
level, it commands a beautiful view of mountain and
valley, water and wood. Its owner, John Baillie Baillie,
Esq. (b. 1835; sue. 1865), holds 2142 acres in the
shire, valued at £1683 per annum. — Ord. Sur., sh. 84,
1876.

Leys, Loch. See Baxchory-Ternan.

Leysmill, a village in Inverkeilor parish, Forfarshire,
with a station on the Arbroath and Forfar section of the
Caledonian, 2| miles ESE of Guthrie Junction.

Libberton, a village and a parish in the Upper AVard
of Lanarkshire. The village, towards the NW corner
of the parish, is 5 miles NW of Biggar and 2^ SSE of
the post-town Carnwath.

The parish, containing also Quothquan village, 4
miles W by N of Biggar, since 1669 has comprehended
the ancient parishes of Libberton and Quothquan. It
is bounded N by Carnwath, E by Walston and Biggar,
S by Symington and Covington, and W by Covington
and Pettinain. Its utmost length, from N to S, is 5J
miles ; its breadth, from E to W, varies between f mile
and 4J miles ; and its area is 8320 acres, of which 88^^
are water. The Clyde, here a beautiful river, 100 to
120 feet in width, and 2 to 15 in depth, flows 8 miles
west-north-westward and north-by-westward along or
close to all the Symington, Covington, and Pettinain
boundaries ; and the South Medwin meanders 5^ miles
westward along all the northern border till it falls into
the Clyde at the NW corner of the parish. Sinking
here to 620 feet above sea-level, the surface rises to 1006
feet at Bellscraigs, 1141 near Huntfield, and 1097 at
jiointed, green Quothquan Law, an outcropping rock on
whose summit bears the name of Wallace's Chair. A
large extent of haughlaud, with a strong clay soil, ex-
tends along the Clyde ; the tract thence inward rises in
some places gently, in other places suddenly, to the
height of 50 or 60 feet above the level of the stream,
and extends, wdth a fine, early, fertile soil, to the dis-
tance of J mile or more ; and the land further back
becomes more elevated, later, and less productive in its
arable parts, till it includes a considerable extent of un-
cultivated surface. The banks of the Medwin comprise
some early fertile spots, but, in general, are poor and
moorish. About 1076 acres ai'e under wood ; 6158§ are
in tillage ; and the rest is either pastoral or waste.
The largest landowner is Sir Simon Lockhart of Lee,
Bart. ; and the next is Chancellor of Quothquan and
Shieldhill. This portion of the Lockhart estates was
sold by the fourth Earl of Carnwath in 1676 to Sir
George Lockhart, afterwards President of the Court of
Session, who was assassinated in March 1689 ; and they
have since remained in the family. The lands of Quoth-
quan and Shieldhill have, liowever, been in jiossession
of the Cliancellor family for more than 400 years, a
charter of 1432 being still extant, containing a grant of
them by Lord Somerville to the ancestor of the Chan-
cellor family. The proprietor of the estate in the time
of Queen Mary took part with that princess, and was
engaged at the battle of Langside ; in consequence of
which his mansion at Quothquan was burned down in
1568 by the adherents of the victorious Regent Murray.
The family then removed to the old town of Shieldhill.

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY

Los Angeles
This book is DUE on the last date stamped below.

^N^

.%^

Form L9-100m-9,'52(A3105)444

SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILIFy

D 000 160 990

*DA
869
G89o